KL has gone from tin-mining shanty town to Asian cyber city in under two centuries: glittering skyscrapers dwarf Tudor buildings, Hindu shrines and Buddhist temples sit side by side with neon-lit retail temples, and cars bearing McDonalds VIP drive-thru stickers pause by hawker stalls to pick up skewers of spiced stingray.
There is more than a hint of KLs admiration for America (Amreeka) in its skyscrapers, shopping malls littered with cookie, pretzel and hot-dog stands, and even its National Monument. One of several attractions in the vast Lake Gardens, a former tin mine transformed into a park under British colonial rule, the monument commemorates those who died in Malaysias struggle for freedom, with over-muscled bronze soldiers that are pure Hollywood.
The exuberant Bird Park, the under-visited Islamic Arts Museum and the magnificent Sri Mahamariamman Temple (Malaysias oldest Hindu shrine located near the Lake Gardens) are more indicative of Malaysias natural and cultural bounty.
Given its relative youth, its small wonder that KL is still finding its own identity, but the resulting mishmash is a delight for the curious tourist. Within a few minutes walk of Merdeka Square, with its mix of British colonial, North African and contemporary architecture, youll find Masjid Jamek, an intricate Moorish-style mosque and the Art Deco faade of the covered Central Market, whose stalls sell jade, wooden sculptures and other handicrafts.
The narrow streets of Chinatown are here, too, packed with stalls selling fake handbags, wallets, phones and clothing, all infused by the arresting smells of hawker stalls. Farther south of the city centre, you can buy saris, lotus flowers and authentic banana leaf curry in Brickfields, or Little India.
Trendy young KL-ites congregate around Kuala Lumpur City Centre and the Golden Triangle, incorporating the Bukit Bintang strip. Dominated by the Petronas Towers, this is the concrete jungle of refrigerated shopping malls, luxury hotels, chic bars and unashamed consumerism that Malaysians are most proud of.
Bukit Bintang is where locals celebrate Merdeka Eve and do what they love best shopping and eating. Just be sure to duck out of the air-conditioned malls, Starbucks and KFCs lining Bintang Walk to sample the sizzling skewers and steaming bowls of noodles at the hawker stalls along Jalan Alor.
Its also worth hopping on KLs impressive public transport system (or taking an inexpensive taxi) to explore the citys hinterland, which includes the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia, which has treetop canopy walkways for a taste of the rainforest; and Kuala Selangor Nature park for its magical fireflies.
A must-visit is the Batu Caves, a towering limestone outcrop containing Malaysias most sacred Hindu shrine: embrace your inner Indiana Jones to clamber 300 steps to a labyrinth of caves and shrines to the chattering encouragement of the athletic local monkeys.
To truly escape the heat and bustle of KL, however, follow in the footsteps of Twenties colonials and retreat to the Cameron Highlands. Discovered by Sir William Cameron in 1885, the highlands to which he gave his name became one of Malaysias largest hill stations. Located 120 miles from Kuala Lumpur, the highlands are home to an ecosystem that combines tropical flora and fauna with those that thrive in cooler climes.
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Kuala Lumpur and Cameron Highlands: where to go and what to see
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