Nak Armstrong: Hearts, Flowers And A Profoundly Original Approach To Jewelry Design – Forbes

Nak Armstrong transformable rose earrings

When Nak Armstrong offers up hearts and flowers, they are not just simply hearts and flowers. They resemble miniature captivating mosaics and speak to a creative tapestry of Armstrong's influenceshis travels to Italy, his affinity for Art Deco pieces and his first career in textile design. Although his collection is ever-evolving and he has continually pushed the boundaries into alluring realms of the imagination, honing his craft, I thought it was befitting on Valentines Day to offer a peek into his more delicate designs that have resulted in some of the most profoundly creative medleys of multi-gemstone jewelry.Inspired byRoman tile work, and the characteristically imperfect beauty of ancient ruins mixed together with the precision of the Art Deco style of combining a variety of gem cuts into one piece, he has created three-dimensional garden variety florals, lush tropical botanicals and leaves and most recently, a intricate and intriguing collection of hearts.

Nak Armstrong Strapped Heart Pendant

I began working on this particular collection approximately two years ago, says Armstrong who launched his eponymous label Nak Armstrong in 2011 after closing his prior company Anthony Nak, which he co-owned with a partner and held the position of creative director for 12 years.

Armstrongs textile design background, so prevalent in the Anthony Nak line, which evoked the feeling of flowing fabrics that moved with the body, continues to inform the Nak Armstrong collection but with an eye towards innovating new techniques in gem cutting, motifs and patterns. This first led to what he refers to as Ruffled Hardware a collection of ruched and draped rings, hoop earrings and pendants and his Origami collection which includes pieces that take on the tactile appearance of pleats, ribbons and folds. Within these collections, he creates shapes that combine the movement and fluidity of fabric by working with undulating and tapered baguettes and other propriety cuts so that they also impart mosaic-like patterns. These are designed in either monochromatic total hues or single vivid gemstones of emeralds, rubies, tourmalines and sapphires.

Nak Armstrong ruched Tanzanite ring

Triple ruched ruby ring

Nak Armstrong Ethopian opal fold earrings

While I was designing these textile based styles,I had also wanted to create something suggestive of the magnificent ancient architecture that I saw in Romeparticularly the ruins that were there for centuries. I was awed by the splendor of the facades and ceilings of buildings, and how even when broken down or faded, they still revealed these amazing patterns of different tile work.

He continues, For as long as I can remember, I have also been attracted Art Decofirst in the architecture and then in the jewelry. The mix of different cuts of gems and diamonds which form geometric shapes within other shapes in wide bracelets and other pieces was revolutionary during the time it was designed. I wanted to create something that captured both of these in concept, without ever being exact in my interpretation.I consistently push myself to design pieces that give a nod to aspects I love, yet are unexpected and hopefully always undeniably modern.

Nak Armstrong Peony Ear Cuffs

Armstrong has achieved this sense of surprise and current vibe within all of his collections. He has ingeniously created the flowers to take on more of the mosaic feeling, and the hearts, more Deco and precise in the cuts and how they fit together. To accomplish this, he created a range of new proprietary cuts and construction for both of these collections. Roses, tulips, peonies, irises and a variety of exotic blooms and leaves comprise much of the florals which feature more pixelated color ways while the hearts are more of an explosion of vivid hues and color blocking.

Nak Armstrong Iris Ear Cuffs

Nak Armstrong blue zircon Banana Leaf earrings

All of Armstrong's designs are engineered to take on a three-dimensional effect that is much lighter weight than the pieces appear.

Diamond Strapped Heart

His early designs for Nak Armstrong were originally set in silver and were also based on tile work but in more muted or monochromatic colors, set with his exclusive cuts.Within this collection, he created riviere necklaces, tennis bracelets, cuffs and hoop earrings that also touched on the architecture of the duomos in Italy and the facades of buildings in other European cities. To create an easier shopping experience for his customers and a collection with more accessible price points, he pulled these pieces from the main collection and decided to create a spin-off line which he has named Nakard. In this collection, he has also recently added heart motifs in oxidized silver with enamel trim around the heart shapes.

Nakard labradorite riviere

At first, this heart collection presented a test for me I am continually challenging myself to defy conventional jewelry techniques and come from an intuitive place. The less complex the design, with less moving parts, the harder it is to create something fresh and contemporary. It all came together in cabochon cut hearts contrasted against his signature oxidized background with the addition of enameling, which lends a sense of volume and dimension . I learned that the simplicity of this collection allowed me to play with more colors, add more whimsy andhave a lot of fun. Armstrong says.

Nakard Oxidized Silver, enamel and moonstone heart cabochon earrings

Whats most alluring for Armstrongs customers is that the collections can be worn together intricate Nak Armstrong mosaic floral earrings combines easily with a Nakard scalloped bracelet or cabochon heart necklace. An Art Deco-inspired colored blockedNak Armstrong heart with half-moon and baguette shapes can layer with a Nakard riviere necklace in a muted tone to allow the heart to pop or both can be worn in vivid colors to create more of an eye catching statement.

Nak Armstrong Sakura earrings

Nakard ruby scalloped tennis bracelet

The self-taught Armstrong creates intriguing departures from the traditional by circumventing the constraints of fine jewelry and by continually experimenting and developing pieces that are fast becoming collectors items. These are the type of pieces that inspire the enchantment of seeing something new or unique every time you look at a piece, much like when you are among the legendary mosaics and ruins in Rome, always finding a captivating new aspect of design.

Nak Armstrong Botanica earrings

Nakard Ethopian Heart riviere

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Nak Armstrong: Hearts, Flowers And A Profoundly Original Approach To Jewelry Design - Forbes