Closed in 2021, Oliveto has reopened – The Oaklandside

Longstanding Rockridge restaurant Oliveto closed at the end of 2021, and reopened last week. Credit: Oliveto

Oliveto5655 College Ave. (in the Market Hall building), Oakland

Longtime patrons of Oliveto, the 35-year-old Oakland Italian spot that closed with great fanfare at the end of last year, got a surprising message in their inboxes in recent days.

OK, its not actually over, the email began. According to the message, the restaurants cafe operation quietly reopened last week, an unexpected coda for a restaurant that seemingly ended its run with a multi-month celebration. Before you get comfortable though, be warned: This post-credits scene is a limited-time-only reprieve, as a new owner for the business is likely in the works.

Were in this world of pivots now, co-owner Bob Klein told Nosh about the surprise reopening. Everything is true until tomorrow. And then you pivot.

Olivetos epilogue, which was first reported by the SF Chronicle, wasnt something Klein had planned on, he said. The restaurant was jam-packed during its final two months, after its closure was announced last November, Klein said, and we were proud because the food we were doing was good.

But those last months were painful, too, Klein said. Nobody could get through to us to make reservations, as we didnt have the staff to answer the phone.

The restaurant had promised a number of the special dinners they were known for, including an oceanic dinner of curated sustainable fish, and a truffle celebration. Those did all happen before the restaurants ostensible last day, but my staff begged me not to publicize them because the volume of phone calls the dinners typically prompt would have been unmanageable, Klein said.

Klein had planned on a grand exit on New Years Eve, but four days prior to our finale, I come down with [COVID] symptoms, Klein said. While his bout with COVID-19 was a minor one, he wasnt able to be in the crowded dining room for Olivetos last days, as diners and staff celebrated while he remained isolated at home. How about that for a sad story? Klein asked.

But still, the place had had a good run, so that was it. Or so he thought.

We hadnt been looking for a buyer, Klein said, but then we were contacted by a significant restaurateur. Now, Klein wont say who this prospective buyer is (Nosh has heard rumors, and tips are always welcome), but seemed clearly excited about the potential for this new, mysterious chef to come take over Olivetos dining room.

That also meant a change in plans; for the sale to move forward, Oliveto still needed to be in possession of the space. That means rent, insurance and other costs still need to be paid. So why not just open back up for a little bit, until the sale negotiations are complete?

Heres the ideal situation, Klein said. We would keep going, the deal would be made, plans would be drawn and permits would be filed. Remodeling would be done incrementally remember, this is a two-in-one restaurant with an upstairs operation and a downstairs cafe, so this idea isnt as wild as it seems so closures would be incremental. Then wed close and the new guy would open.

If all that works out, that would be pretty amazing. Does he think it will? If not, were ready to pivot again, Klein said.

Klein also makes clear that he sees this Oliveto addendum as a chance to explore something that had just gotten interesting. He said that as the business started winding down, the cafe food got really good. But hasnt it always been good? Yes, but they really started nailing the duck, as we have a fish dish you wouldnt believe. They really figured it out.

Thats why the revived Oliveto will feature a menu from its cafe, led by chef Juan Guevara. Peter Jackson, the chef who guided the upstairs dining room through its final months, remains on as a consultant but isnt involved in the day-to-day.

Guevara is just so steady, hes a really good chef, Klein said. He was a longtime cook at the cafe, and in fact, we were able to hang on to all our cooks, Klein said.

And all this will continue until the deal is done and Oliveto is well and truly ready to make way for its successor. When pressed, Klein would finally say this about the prospective buyer:

Whoever it is, is focusing on who we are and who our neighborhood is, and theyre planning a food style that is consistent with a really amazing, knowledgeable food customer.

Well, thats vague enough that it leaves room for plenty of worry, Bob. Look, part of being a beloved place for this long means you carry a lot of dust, Klein said. Who wants to have fun in a monument? Ive always focused on fresh ideas, so when somebody new comes in I think the world is moving, everybody is moving, and thats good.

As of publication time, Oliveto is open from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, for lunch and dinner. Dinner reservations must be made through OpenTable, and lunch is walk-in service only. The cafe lunch menu of sandwiches and salads is relatively unchanged, while the dinner menu has some alterations.

Originally posted here:
Closed in 2021, Oliveto has reopened - The Oaklandside