The return of Kabul on State Street

Back in the early 1970s, Madison restaurants typically served staunchly Midwestern fare: sausages, steaks, fish fry. There were few other options. But by the end of the decade there was a beachhead for the ethnic cuisine that was to come: Hsn's, a Turkish restaurant, opened at 547 State St. in 1979. In time, Hsn's was joined on the same block by Buraka East African Cuisine and Kabul Restaurant, serving Afghani and Mediterranean food.

That modest building's great run ended last year, when it was demolished to make way for the Hub, a mixed-use development of apartments, retail space and parking. Construction is under way.

Kabul fortunately found new space upstairs in the former Gino's just across the street. The second-floor location is triple the restaurant's original size.

While the menu is not radically different, the new location creates a whole new experience. A bigger kitchen space allows for a more sophisticated menu, a modern and updated version of what Kabul had offered before. Photographs and paintings are set off by red and green light accents. The centerpiece of the new room is a bar that runs perpendicular to the windows overlooking State Street.

There are some terrific plates on the lunch menu, starting with the zucchini, potatoes, mushrooms and green peppers spooned over fluffy vegetarian couscous. Trout with cilantro chutney is only $8. Hummus is also a good deal and spiked with just enough garlic that it never overpowers the chickpea mash.

There's plenty to like before diners even get to the entrees. Dinners come with a side of soup or salad. Afghan soup with garbanzos, chicken, and kidney beans in a tomato base has a mellow, slow burn with mild heat in a delicate collision of flavors. A fresh salad is set off with a sublime yogurt-mint dressing.

Bread is served with a spicy roasted red pepper-garlic sauce. Other appetizers include sabrosas, deep-fried triangular pastries stuffed with potatoes and served with a mint-cucumber sauce. Baba ganoush is creamy, smooth and subtle. Large chunks of cucumbers distinguish the tabouli.

Entrees are mostly chicken- or lamb-based, and some come as curries, or served over couscous or chalow (white rice seasoned with cardamom).

There's also a nice selection of vegetarian dishes: fasuliya (green beans cooked with onions and split peas), bamya (okra with garlic in tandoori masala) and lubya (red beans with tomatoes, cumin, and coriander).

Sweet potato with lamb curry carries delicate undertones. Lamb and chicken kebabs with tomatoes, green peppers and onion fared the worst -- the lamb was dry and too tough, and the dish lacked any punch or finesse.

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The return of Kabul on State Street