Table Hoppin’: Executive chef embraces Salem Cross Inn’s history of food and family – Worcester Mag

Barbara M. Houle| Correspondent

Wayne Taylor, new to Salem Cross Inn in West Brookfield, is an executive chef who brings skill and charismatic personality to the family-owned and operated restaurant that marks 61 years in business in June.

Taylor channels his passion for cooking through food that falls in the category of classic American cuisine. Depending on the restaurant, his signature dishes have slightly different takes, he said. Different variations, said Taylor, an experienced chef with a long history in the hospitality industry.

He got on board at Salem Cross last summer and as head chef shares the kitchen with chefs and best friends James Bliss and Patrick Carroll. At times in our careers we all worked the line beside one another, said Taylor, who explained he met Nancy Salem through an introduction from Carroll. When I told Patrick (Carroll) that I needed a new project after my last job, he put me in contact with Nancy, who was looking to hire a chef, said Taylor. Nancy Salem and her brothers and sisters own and operate Salem Cross Inn.

Taylor of Brookfield is a lifelong fan of Salem Cross. The place has ambience and the food and events are awesome, he said. The Salem family members want to ensure people have a great experience when theyre on the property, and they go out of their way to make it happen.

Originally from Brimfield, Taylor graduated fromTantasquaHigh School in Sturbridge and Johnson & Wales University in Providence. He has worked the line at hotels, restaurants, catering companies and at Eddy Pond in Auburn when the senior facility first opened. In Sturbridge, he has worked for the Publick House, Ox Head Tavern and Host Hotel and Conference Center. Hes done gigs at the Brimfield Flea Market and a stint at the former Mad Maggies (Route 20) in Charlton, a steak and ale house.

He spent his formative cooking years on Nantucket in restaurants. Through word of mouth, Taylor was hired to prepare meals in clients homes and at small intimate weddings and parties. He said he loved working with fresh Atlantic seafood and seasonal summer recipes highlighting the islands cuisine.Friends and colleagues sometimes went to Nantucket to work with the chef. Off-season, Taylor said, he took jobs in construction, etc.

With 25 years of industry experience under his belt, single and in his 40s, Taylor left Nantucket around the time the pandemic hit. He returned to the Sturbridge area and worked at the Host Hotel and at local events and functions before deciding to take vacation. Referring to himself as a rogue chef, he contacted Carroll when he got antsy to get back to work, he said. For a while I thought I was out of the restaurant game, said Taylor. Then I met the Salem family.

Salem Cross guests have come to appreciate its excellent cuisine, atmosphere and special events such as the annual sold-out Fireplace Feast, according to Taylor, who said the restaurant offersColonialcuisine, a type of quality comfort food that utilizes not only ingredients grown on the property, but also supports local agriculture whenever available. The Salem Cross farm-raised beef is featured on the restaurants menu, with prime rib a signature dish alongside other favorites like the Signature Sirloin and Salem Cross Farm Burger, he said.

The chef likes to tweak the menu now and then, adding a new appetizer such as prime rib potato skins, or the authentic German Schnitzel in the fall.He also likes to mix and get creative with ingredients and ups the ante with sauces, dressings, herbs and spices.

The current restaurant menu offers starters, salads, sandwiches and entrees that include a Skillet Roasted Pork Chop (bone-in, apple bacon jam, cider supreme sauce, toasted walnuts); Cedar Plank BBQ Salmon (rosemary BBQ glaze, frizzled sweet potato); Succotash Roasted Acorn Squash (sage and cranberry corn polenta, white beans, caramelized onion, spinach, red pepper relish, maple drizzle, toasted pumpkin seeds); Maple Jack Chicken (melted Monterey Jack, local maple syrup, bacon, roasted tomatoes). Seasonal libations, beers and seltzers and wine are available. So are desserts!

Salem Cross Inn is not a pretentious restaurant, said Taylor, despite what some people may think. His take is the more flannel, the better!

Taylor is definitely enthusiastic, personable and descriptive in conversation. Hes into English literature, he said, and likes playing with words when creating menus. Hes a stickler for spelling.

For this interview, he left the traditional chefs jacket (black or white) in the closet and wore one with colorful printed pineapples, reminding us that the pineapple is symbolic of hospitality and celebration. He feels at home at Salem Cross and welcomed as part of the family, he said.

The kitchen team and everyone who works the front of the house are here for each other, said Taylor. We learn together. Ive always believed that if you make great food and are consistent, people will come to your restaurant.

The chefs Valentines Day Specials 2022 will be offered Feb. 12-14, by reservation only. Call(508) 867-2345 or visit http://www.salemcrossinn.com.

The menu:Ros Buttered Roasted Oysters; Kumquat Salad Lyonnaise; Pink Peppercorn Crusted Lamb Lollipops.Entrees: Drover Roasted Prime Rib Au Jus; Atlantic Swordfish Oscar;Surf and Turfy (with filet mignon and grilled butterflied jumbo shrimp); Champagne and Asparagus Risotto. Sweet Endings: Chocolate Seduction (flourless walnut crusted chocolate terrine with crme anglaise); Strawberry White Chocolate Tiramisu; and Love Bird Cream Puffs.

Salem Cross Inn, 260 W. Main St. (Route 9), West Brookfield currently is not open for lunch. Dining room hours are from 4 to 8 p.m. Friday and Saturday; noon to 5 p.m. Sunday. Special COVID 19 notes can be found on the website. Call about booking weddings, etc. Note: TheHexmarkTavern at Salem Cross Inn is not open at this time. The Salem family plans to resume outdoor dining on the lawn this summer.

The picturesque, award-winning Salem Cross Inn has built a solid reputation on good food, ambience and family. The new chef helps continue the tradition.

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Table Hoppin': Executive chef embraces Salem Cross Inn's history of food and family - Worcester Mag