Restaurant review: Jumbars' charm and quality endures

Thank goodness Jumbars is as charming as ever and the quality of the fare continues to be as exceptional as I remembered it.

Too bad for me it's been eight years since I visited this Bethlehem restaurant; I missed the construction of the new entrance about three years ago. Now the entry opens to a vestibule and a second door: it prevents cold outside air from blasting through the small restaurant. A new partition in the dining area also helps to cut down drafts.

These are welcome changes, even though the dining area lost a bit of space, which translates to Jumbars losing its larger tables. Groups larger than six cannot be accommodated at one table now.

The homey, cheerful decor still sets a happy tone with its sage-toned bead board wainscoting and omelet yellow walls. Multicolored Fiestaware and bold floral oilcloth table coverings keep the bright energy flowing. Local art for sale adorns the walls.

I love the happy vibe here, but what I love even more is that all of the food is homemade, including breads, English muffins and salad dressings.

Breakfast offerings include the usual: omelets, waffles, pancakes. The waffles, however, are whole wheat, and there's a tofu scramble on the menu along with quiche. Quiche holds court for lunch, too, along with paninis, burgers and sandwiches the likes of turkey breast on house-made grilled cinnamon raisin bread with Jumbars' own apple cranberry chutney.

Salads have a strong presence as well. One of these days I'm going to try the roasted duck breast on mixed greens with sliced pear, dried cranberries, roasted walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette.

For our lazy Saturday brunch, a build-your-own omelet ($9.75) and duck confit hash ($10) were savory treats worthy of rare leisure moments.

Caramelized onion, spinach, bacon and Cheddar cheese filled the fluffy omelet, yielding a smoky-sweet flavor combination enhanced by the bacon's chewy crunch and the onion's al dente bite.

The hash, one of the day's specials, was a welcome twist on an old favorite, rich with flavor and the texture of julienne potatoes perfect with two eggs perfectly over easy.

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Restaurant review: Jumbars' charm and quality endures