Resto Caf Le Patio: Hot plates, hot coffee

Written by: John Letzing Photo by: Dorothea Bylica

A Spanish specialty is added to Caf Patios signature blend of wicker and potted palms, attracting both finicky eaters and chic shoppers.

Tourists ambling into the back streets of Pragues Star Msto quarter are confronted with a scene thats more Kabul than central Europe. There is, in Hatalsk nmst, the anticipated mix of spires and art-nouveau facades. But then, theres also a big mess. An enormous gash of brick and dirt, where once was cobble stoned street, remains, more than a year after the floods of 2002, constantly operated on by truckloads of pot-bellied workmen in coveralls. So much the worse, then, for the latest edition of Caf Le Patio, Resto Caf Le Patio, which sits on a lonely corner amid the chaos. This is a pity, because this caf/restaurant, opened last April, offers a unique product with seemingly strong potential. Tarted up in deep amber and plum hues, the interior is a largely informal space, airy and pleasant enough for casual upscale dining. Michaela Polkov, the restaurants manager, says that business has been rather slow, due in large part to the street work going on daily outside its doors. But more than enough tourists have managed to find their way here, and Polkov also boasts of a diminutive but regular local clientele. What these people get is essentially a calmer, more secluded atmosphere than what they would find at the other Caf Le Patio, located on the relatively bustling thoroughfare of Nrodn street. Le Patio, a veritable Prague institution of home furnishings stores and caf-cum-restaurants, has cultivated a signature aesthetic. Its sort of like an antiseptic casbah, with enough visual flair to qualify as having been inspired by the Levant, yet also with enough cold austerity to remind you that youre still in Europe. This style, or lifestyle as Le Patio likes to call it (which is applied to their restaurant interiors as well as the home furnishings in their shops), is not unlike what you might find in an above-average timeshare condo, or perhaps your grandmothers apartment. Different, but just sedate enough to give the wary a knowing wink; youre really not in unfamiliar territory here.

The menu at Resto Caf Le Patio, while small, is rich, heavy, and calibrated for those that tend to think in terms of hard currency. That is, foreigners and local businesspeople. Polkov describes the philosophy behind the establishment as an emphasis on caf, together with a mixture of French cuisine. The French element is composed mainly of a filet mignon served with veggies and couscous, a tri-color salad with diced salmon and French dressing, an undeniably evil chocolate mousse, and a range of galettes with goat cheese, chicken, and bacon and eggs. There is also lighter fare on offer, including fresh salmon sashimi with wasabi, bruschetta, grilled tofu with tamari sauce, and a vegetable antipasta. But the main attraction is Spanish cuisine, served in the style of La Plancha; extremely hot saucepans are used for flash-frying, without oils, a variety of vegetables and meats. Polkov says that the owners of Le Patio were eager to be the first in town to present this particular style of Spanish culinary flair. Different La Plancha patrons are offered varieties of this cuisine that range from salmon mixed with tuna and trout, to calamari on a bed of saffron risotto, and (in a nod to Iberian-Czech relations) pork medallions tossed with quail and chicken. Polkov says they plan to eventually add outside seating, thus substantially augmenting the rather small interior capacity of 45. But she allows that wont be possible any time soon, as work crews plan to continue kicking up dirt outside at least until January. It just wouldnt do to have latte-sipping guests glared at by soiled workmen slugging 10 crown beers on their lunch break.

Resto Caf Le Patio Hatalsk 18 Tel. 224 819 767 resto@patium.com Open daily 11 23 CC: Amex, MC, Visa

PRAGUE has never been renowned for its Asian restaurants, but venues like Lemon Leaf may be thanked for setting a new standard of Eastern cuisine in the city. The owners imported Thai chefs to train their local staff, and the authenticity comes through in every dish from the sticky rice and creamy carrot soup with ginger to the kang fet kai (red curry chicken with coconut milk) and signature noodle dish pad thai. The menu also features more occidental recipes, with salads and light fare to please every palate. Whats more, staff is friendly, and the atmosphere is airy and relaxed.

Lemon Leaf, Na Zderaze 14, Praha 2

FARTHER AFIELD: Barabizna

Five years ago, the Gmuzdeks opened the Mexican restaurant Barabizna at Zbraslav. Last year they opened again, 10 weeks after the floods rushed through the popular venue. Fortunately nothing changed -the stylish interior, great service, even their famous specialities stayed the same. These include Piri piri chicken with jalapeos peppers and cheddar cheese, fried hyena steaks, numerous side dishes and desserts like fried ice-cream with caramel and nuts or delicious tiramisu with hot raspberries. Barabizna has its stable clientele from the neighborhood, while most visitors and newcomers gladly return. The rosy and rustic interior seats about 90, and in the summer you can sit outside, day or night.

Barabizna Pod pitlem 363, Praha 5 Zbraslav tel.: 257 921 362 Open daily 11:30-23:00 No cards accepted

Original post:
Resto Caf Le Patio: Hot plates, hot coffee