As I look at many lawn and landscape problems in the summer, it occurs to me that many of these are the result of poor plant selection and poor planting techniques. Although now is not a great time to be planting, it is a great time to review the proper steps to avoid plant stress and later problems.

To plant right it is important to know the conditions in your yard and how you use that information. Identify the areas with sun and shade. Take soil tests to determine soil pH.

Test soil drainage by digging a hole 18 to 24 inches deep. Fill the hole with water and let it sit overnight. Refill hole to within a few inches of the top. Use a ruler or measuring stick to determine the drainage over time. If soil drains less than one-half inch per hour it is poorly drained. Choose plants tolerant of wet conditions. If the water drops between one-half inch and 1 inch per hour, the soil is moderately drained and most plants including some tolerant of wet conditions will do well. If the water drops more than 1 inch per hour drainage is great and most plants can be used except for those suited for wet conditions.

If you have an existing landscape, determine if there are problems with any plants. Take a look at the lawn. This is usually the highest maintenance area of a landscape. Determine how much lawn you really need. Locate areas for privacy, play and work.

Next choose the right plants for the right place. Grasses grow best in full sun. Choose drought-tolerant plants if soils are moderately to well drained. Think about how plants will look once they grow to mature size not how they look when planted and give them the appropriate space.

Avoid plants that have problems if you are looking for a successful long-lived landscape. Bradford pears may split in 10 to 15 years due to their growth habit. Japanese hollies and boxwoods dont do well in poorly drained soil. Red maples planted as lawn trees in well-drained soils decline when attacked by gloomy scales. Leyland cypress is easily destroyed by bagworms. Azaleas are damaged by lace bugs. This list can go on and on.

When planting make sure to give plants a good start. Planting in groupings works well. Prepare the soil by tilling. Add 2 to 4 inches of compost, then till again. If trees are not in groupings or planting beds, do not mix anything with the soil on the site. What comes out of the hole goes back in. Do not plant deep. Dig holes no deeper than the root ball and at least three times the width in unprepared soil. In fact, it is better to plant shrubs with 1 to 2 inches of the root ball above ground and trees with 2 to 4 inches of the root ball above ground. Pull soil up to the edge to cover the sides but not the top of the root ball. Make sure to loosen roots of container-grown plants or score the root ball with a knife to promote root branching. If plants come with burlap and wire basket, remove as much of both as possible after they are in the hole and steady.

Mulch correctly after planting. Two to 4 inches of organic mulch is a good thing around trees and shrubs. Pull it up to the edge of the root ball. Less is needed around perennials and annuals. Do not pile mulch against the trunks of any plant. As trees grow, widen the mulched area underneath them to ensure good growth and prevent tree/grass problems.

If you have questions about your garden, lawn or landscape, give the Pitt County Extension Master Gardener Volunteers a call at 902-1705 or email pittcomgv@hotmail.com.

Danny Lauderdale is an agricultural extension agent with the North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service-Pitt County.

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Lauderdale: Plant right for success

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July 13, 2014 at 1:07 pm by Mr HomeBuilder
Category: Landscape Yard