Texas finds that there's wine in them thar hills

For a place where beer and barbecue reign supreme, Texas has a wine scene that is catching up fast, becoming No. 5 in U.S. wine production.

Centered in this small town 77 miles west of Austin and 70 miles north of San Antonio, the Texas Hill Country is home to more than 40 wineries, and it is clear why it was named one of Wine Enthusiast Magazine's top wine tourism destinations.

Visitors can fill their days visiting wineries and talking with vintners and never be more than 30 minutes from their lodging. Wineries and tasting rooms line both sides of U.S. Highway 290 between Fredericksburg and Johnson City, with the vines sharing the landscape with peach orchards and lavender fields as well as tumbleweeds and cactus.

The biggest challenge is choosing which properties to visit. In a bit more than three days of visiting and tasting, I found a lot to love and few to forget. Tasting costs vary but average $10 to $12 for a six-wine sampling.

William Chris Vineyards (williamchriswines.com) is one of Hill Country's newest, and it is one of the first that visitors encounter as they drive from Austin. William Chris uses all Texas fruit and specializes in clean, fresh-tasting wines with minimal oak. I especially liked the Enchante red blend.

It is also a great introduction to the attitude that surrounds Texas wines: The vintners are passionate about their wines, but a current of fun flows through all the tastings. There seems to be a lot more laughter than in the tasting rooms of Napa.

When I asked about tours of the winery, the manager said, "Yeah, but it's right over there. Just wander on back, and the guys'll be glad to answer any questions."

Becker Vineyards (beckervineyards.com) is one of the more famous Texas wineries, getting a boost from having its wines served in the White House by President George W. Bush.

Located about a mile off U.S. 290, Becker has just under 50 acres of vines surrounding its winery. The tasting room is huge but frequently crowded on weekends. A small 19th-century cabin once served as a B&B but is now just a historic visual note.

The wines I tasted were universally good, with the reserve cabernet demonstrating why it is regularly rated among the top wines in the state. A big surprise was the Provencal, a superb dry rose. True oenophiles who visit on Saturday should not miss the Library tasting of aged reserve, single-vineyard cabernets. Spots are limited, and reservations are required.

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Texas finds that there's wine in them thar hills