Great Escapes: The Four-Season Appeal of Oregons Breathtaking Coast – Barron’s

Each summer, millions of travelers barrel up and down U.S. Highway 101 to marvel at the plunging cliffs that bedeck the Oregon Coast, maxing out the capacity of nearly every campground, motel, and hotel between Brookings and Astoria. Then, as if Labor Day portended some kind of poison fog that might settle across the entire landscape, most of these fair-weather tourists abruptly vanish. The roads clear up, the lodges empty out, and the coast grows blissfully quiet again.

People who live on the Oregon Coast yearn for summers end, because they know its when the winds die down and the colors change; true coasties look forward to winter, too, because its when magnificent storms hit, and books and fireplaces beckon, respite from a steady drumbeat of rain. The hospitality business has historically seen a steep dropoff in off-season visitors, which is why hoteliers with any real ambition have simply avoided building on the coast altogether; there just isnt enough year-round business to make the industry viable. For year-round travelers, that has meant a dearth of boutique or luxury or even interesting options in places to stay and eat.

Finally, this is all beginning to change.

Nibbling at the edges of the strong brand of Oregons largest cityPortlandtourism operators are beginning to tell the story of the 365-day bounty that lies on Oregons shores: hikes and sportfishing trips; winters tucked into blankets and views of magnificent waves blasting rocky headlands; spring kayaking trips along placid waterways lined with blooming azaleas and rhododendrons. As more and more people hear this story and begin to believe it, hotels and restaurateurs are finding the coast a newly smart place to invest.

STAY

The most interesting developments in the travel business on the Oregon Coast are places to sleep. From north to south, highlights include the Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa, which sits on a century-old wharf that once held up the historic Union Fisherman's Cooperative Packing Co., the Astoria fisherman communitys response to price disputes with big cannery owners. The hotel offers sweeping views of the Astoria-Megler Bridge that flies across the Columbia River, rooms with real fireplaces, and, as a nod to Astorias Finnish heritage, an authentic Finnish sauna in the basement.

In nearby Gearhart is a resort from Oregons legendary McMenamins, a hospitality brand known for clever refurbishments of old buildings into hotels, bars, and restaurants throughout the Pacific Northwest. McMenamins Gearhart Hotels main feature is its adjacency to the 18-hole Gearhart Golf Links, but its subterranean Pot Bunker Bar is a fine place to hide out from a cloudburst with a burger and a pint.

In Cannon Beach, the best option is arguably Hallmark Resort and Spa, situated on the beach right smack next to the iconic Haystack Rock. On the road from Portland to the coast is a worthwhile stop at North Fork 53, a few miles inland and a respite from Pacific gusts. The North Coasts best new offering is arguably Pacific City Headlands, a smartly designed hotel overlooking Cape Kiwanda. For history buffs, its the Inn at Arch Cape, which was converted from the former townships post office into a cozy set of rooms with a cabin-like vibe; or the Heceta Lighthouse Bed and Breakfast, a magical place that is said to sometimes be frequented by a friendly ghost. Between those two is Salishan Resort, a pioneer of luxury accommodations on the Oregon Coast since 1965, with rustic but modern rooms tucked into the woods and just up the hill from a magnificent spa. Coastal hotels are newly worth the trip.

PLAY

Year-round activity has always been the coasts best amenity, be it reading a book by the fireplace or strolling the beach (in a warm jacket, most of the year). For hikers, the epic treks at Saddle Mountain and Neahkahnie Mountain offer strenuous ascents and dramatic ocean views. Other comely spots include the Cape Perpetua National Scenic Area, the highest drivable point on the coast; the Devils Churn, where waves careen off the walls of an ancient cavern and burst into the sky, often drenching visitors whove gotten too close. On windy days, explore the nearest brackish water by kayak, where temperatures are warmer than on the beach and where wildlife from blue herons to bald eagles abounds.

EXPLORE

On a first trip, tourists often gravitate to unspoilt beaches, pristine and accessible thanks to 1950s-era laws that designated the entire coastline as public. When beachwalking gets boring, try hauling in your own catch of the day, either by renting crab traps from a local shop or heading out on a charter fishing boat. For an escape into one of the states best-preserved old growth forests, load a backpacking pack and spend a night or two exploring the Drift Creek Wilderness Area, a peaceful and lightly traveled glen with towering Sitka Spruce around every bend.

These are all fine activities in both winter and spring, though its wise to watch forecasts and dart out during the breaks between torrential downpours. Much of the coast is underlaid with sand, so that water drains quickly and even an hour-long sun break makes trails and beaches traversable again.

For winter-specific fun, the coasts best attribute is those powerful storms, which at multiple capes and coves send surf blasting against ancient volcanic rock and shooting into the sky. Late fall and winter are also excellent charter fishing seasons.

EAT

Thanks to a steady drumbeat of tourist traffic, traps like Mos Seafood and its mediocre clam chowder remain afloat, while independent restaurateurs pray theyll survive long, dark winters. The best ones are having an easier time of it, rightfully so, because they feature creative twists on some of the freshest seafood in the country.

In Astoria, a highlight is the waterfront Bridgewater Bistro, a short walk from the Cannery Pier hotel. Owners Tony and Ann Kischner imagined the place back when it was a neglected boat yard and refurbished it into the now seafood and wine destination eatery. Further south, Cannon Beach Hardware and Public Housefondly known as Screw and Brewis the first hardware store in Oregon (or maybe anywhere?) to serve beer and wine. Plus, its clam chowder is excellent.

In the tiny town of Wheeler is a new restaurant and bar on the banks of Nehalem Bay, the Salmonberry Saloon, where everything from cocktails to entrees are excellent. For breakfast, Fork in Manzanita shouldnt be skipped. On the central coast, the best options are Local Ocean Seafoods in Newport and two grand choices In Yachats: Ona, owned by the proprietors of the Heceta Lighthouse B&B; and the Green Salmon Coffee Company, a coffee shop and bakery just up the road.

DRINK

Screw and Brew in Cannon Beach offers a fine collection of local beers; the Salmonberry Saloon features shockingly refined cocktails and a wraparound porch to enjoy the bay views. McMenamins Gearhart is always a fun place for a drink by the fire.

The author was a guest of Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa and Headlands Coastal Lodge and Spa.

Read more:
Great Escapes: The Four-Season Appeal of Oregons Breathtaking Coast - Barron's