Houseworks: Building fences is a simple matter of design

Those who followed last weeks column now have rows of fence posts standing sentinel in their yards.

Its time to get to the fun stuff.

Youll need three 2-by-4 stringers for each bay of the fence, assuming youre building a 5- or 6-foot privacy fence. A low, decorative fence (perhaps around the front yard) requires only two per bay.

Many people build fences with the same treated pine as their posts, but Ive found such lumber often twists as it dries (it has to be treated green, and usually its still curing when it gets to the lumber yard). I prefer cedar, which comes to me well cured and also smells nice when I cut it.

Start with the widest bay (wait for it, gang) and measure and cut those stringers to fit. If you cut one too short, save it for a narrower bay (see?). You want a snug fit.

Level the first stringer about 6 inches off the ground and nail it in place. If youre particularly anal, youll use galvanized steel brackets, much like joist hangers.

I prefer 16d galvanized finish nails that I can sink into the stringers for a tidy look, but you can use galvanized common nails or even deck screws instead. Just dont used steel nails or drywall screws, which would begin rusting almost immediately.

Level the second stringer midway up the posts, then the third at or near their tops, depending on your fence design. Whether your stringers are set flat or on edge also depends on the design. Well get to that.

Finish filling in the bays.

If your fence line is level (its happened to me exactly twice in 30 years), the rest is a cinch. But if theres a slope or dip, you have to decide whether the pickets will follow that, creating a wavy fence top, or stair-step up or down the slope. That is, each bay will be level itself, but it wont match the bay next in line.

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Houseworks: Building fences is a simple matter of design