Around the House: To keep fleas away, keep rabbits away – Colorado Springs Gazette

Dear Ken: For the first time last year, we had fleas at our house. Even our dog got them. Naturally, I dont want them again this year. I suspect they are coming from rabbits living under our deck. Any relief for this? Janet

Answer: I think there is a possible connection between wild rabbits and a flea infestation. And yes, if your dog lies around on the deck hell become a home for them also.

There seem to be a lot of more rabbits around, dont there? Apparently its at least partially due to the decline of the fox population from mange. Theres really no effective way to trap rabbits; you can only discourage them. Coyote urine spray is one deterrent. But I like the commercial repellents better. The Bonide company makes Repels All Spray (full disclosure, they advertise with me). I have used it with great success to keep the deer away from my perennial flower garden, but I know it also works for rabbits and other critters, plus it lasts about a month.

But of course your first line of defense is to put lattice, chicken wire or some other barricade around the edges of your deck to discourage nesting rabbits. One good resource that can help you with this is the Colorado State Extension Service at extension.colostate.edu

Dear Ken: Is there a building code regarding the distance of a microwave mounted over a cooktop? I have heard there is a manufacturers recommendation and am wondering if there is a code requirement. Bill

Answer: Usually the appliance companies specify that the top of the microwave be no lower than 66 inches off the floor. That gives a fixed distance between the cooktop and the bottom of the microwave, since ranges are all at the same countertop height.

The building code authorities almost always defer to the manufacturers recommendations. So thats what I would do. Besides, if you violate that separation distance, youre going to void the warranty on your new microwave.

Dear Ken: Id like to paint over my old, dark paneling somehow. Youve mentioned a primer and sealer before. What are the steps? Jackie

Answer: Old paneling can, indeed, be painted. But itll end up looking like guess what? painted paneling. The grooves and fake distress marks will show through with a vengeance. And if you try to remove the sheets, youll probably damage the underlying drywall surface. That will require taping, floating and texturing, which will make you wish you had the paneling back. Its much better to switch to some other material like wallpaper.

Scuff sand the entire surface to degloss it, then fill in the grooves with a couple of applications of some drywall taping compound applied with a plastic putty knife; lightly sand between each coat.

Then paint on a couple of layers of a good interior wallpaper prep material or interior latex primer. That will make a good surface for wallpaper to cling to. If you use a heavy-ish vinyl, you can glue it directly over the wood. For thin papers, apply a liner paper first. If you use a muted and undecorated pattern like you see in many office buildings the walls will then pretty much resemble ordinary, textured drywall. Youll be surprised at how much bigger and more inviting the room becomes, and your home wont seem nearly as dated.

Dear Ken: My furnace in my new home is actually in the attic. I have a hard time getting someone to change the filters. Is there somewhere else I can install them thats easier to get to? John

Answer: An HVAC contractor may be able to modify the return air grill down in the living area by adding a hinged cover, which would then accept a standard-size filter.

Otherwise, you can buy rolls of filter media at the hardware store that you can size to fit the space behind that same return air opening. After its installed, remove the traditional filter in the furnace and throw it away. This method actually reduces the load on the blower motor, so the house will heat quicker, and youll be able to change the filters whenever you like.

Dear Ken: I have one bathroom bulb that flickers. It doesnt help to put a new one in or to tighten it. Any ideas? Barb

Answer: Turn the electricity off at the breaker box and remove the bulb. Shine a flashlight into the socket and youll see a little tab sitting in the center at the bottom. This is the hot side of the circuit and touches a little spot on the bottom of the bulb base. Use the end of an emery file to pull it towards you a bit, and then try to sand off as much of the surface of the tab as you can to remove built up oxidation. Its an awkward maneuver, but youll get the hang of it.

Finally, rub a tiny bit of petroleum jelly onto the outside threads of the bulb to make it easier to remove the next time. Chances are, when you reenergize the light it wont flicker.

Moon is a home inspector in the Pikes Peak region. His radio show airs at 4 pm Saturdays on KRDO, FM 105.5 and AM 1240. Visit a roundthehouse.com

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Around the House: To keep fleas away, keep rabbits away - Colorado Springs Gazette