The Cruise Ship: a glimpse at life below decks

Theres no doubt Royal Princess is a good-looking ship. Its decor, contemporary and with generous use of marble and glass, stops just the right side of bling. Art deco flourishes and lacquered panelling add a classic cruise-liner feel. Cabins appear understated to the point of bland but I soon came to appreciate the thoughtful design features: light restful colours, plenty of mirrors, ample storage and heavy curtains. A female passenger in the programme praises the lighting around the mirror.

The showpiece of Royal is the three-floor atrium (the lines largest), a voluptuous swirl of spiral staircases and curved balconies. What sets it apart, explains Rai Calouri, senior vice president for operations, is the piazza concept: a multi-functional hub of bars, cafes and boutiques configured around a marble floor for dancing and entertainment.

In the television series we see popular entertainer George Evans rarely seen without a coterie of sexagenarian groupies singing on the stairs or at the piano, and people hanging over balconies to watch. Evans, with his coiffed hair and silver bow-tie, and who has been crooning around the Caribbean for five years told me: Entertainers need love. I go out there every night with the goal of having everyone in the room fall in love with me.

I need that; I actually need that.

I found it impossible to pass the atrium without loitering and indulging in a snack a gelato, a cup of tea (a tea sommelier can advise on the 50 different varieties) or a shot of iced vodka. Mind you, getting to the atrium was not always easy.

Like new girl Kelly Woods, 21, one of the spas hairdressers (who viewers will see tonight seeking comfort from the ships mother hen Liz), I found the ships layout confusing: not all lifts are beside staircases, not all staircases lead to all decks and there is no same-level full-circle promenade deck. I often found myself hitting a blank wall (like Kelly) or walking into the gym heck, how did that happen? when on course for lunch.

The best place for lunch is the Horizon Court and Horizon Bistro, the self-service cafeterias that segue into one another other than the colour scheme I never grasped the differences between them. Astonishingly, Horizon seats 900 plus more on the terrace, a lovely quiet space for breakfast and there were no queues. In the opening episode we saw the executive sous chef and food and beverage director look on anxiously as hundreds of just-boarded, passengers test Horizons capacity.

It copes partly because its a larger space than that found on other Princess ships, and partly (I later found out) because lighter food choices are separated from full meals. Also, drinks are served at table, so theres no waiting as a ditherer chooses between orange or apple juice or fathoms out the machine.

True, the central pool area was packed on sunny sea days, but it was good-humoured crowd. Tiered decks make good use of space and if I wanted to dial down the volume I headed to the adults-only Retreat Pool, with its shaded areas. Princess is big on wow factors; sophisticated rather than sensational.

On Royal you wont find climbing walls and water slides. But you will find a 16-treatment-room spa with vast thermal suite; a massive outdoor movie screen, and gourmet dining options, including the Chefs Table Lumiere (guests are seated at the centre of the restaurant, behind a circular curtain of light) and a Wine Makers Dinner. The latter includes a behind-the-scenes galley experience plus personal service from the executive chef (with a hefty $115/67 price tag).

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The Cruise Ship: a glimpse at life below decks