Handyman Hints: Getting ready to stain

Observation #739 after 30 years in the stain/paint supply biz: Only the truly blessed have backyard decks that don't experience stain wear, or paint peel, a few seasons after application.

What's the problem, or issue? We're dealing with an uncontrolled environment. That's why varathaning a favorite desk, spray painting a car, or hosting a wedding, while outdoors, all fall into the category of risky business. Basically, you can't predict the weather. So, how do we successfully, and with any assurance of lasting quality, color, and finish, apply a stain to our exterior decks and fences?

With the help and divine intervention of our Lord almighty, or the fates, of course. Otherwise, if you're the type of person that takes matters into their own hands, depending neither on myth or faith, since your attendance at said religious functions has been less than stellar anyway, so there's little chance of divine favoritism headed your way, we'll be following the basic steps of preparation and application.

Step one, clean the deck. Official "deck cleaners" work best since their de-greasing formula requires no scrubbing. Simply spray on the solution, wait 10 minutes, then rinse off with the garden hose. Spray applicators cost about 40 bucks, which may seem a little pricy, but it's the most effective way to apply the formula. Plus, exterior prep-work and staining, especially on decks that see a lot of traffic, are going to be facts of life at least one weekend every two to three years, so you might as well be as proficient as possible by having the best equipment.

What about pressure washing a deck? Bad idea, that's like using a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. Pressure washing not only drives dust and dirt into the deck's surface, but it damages the wood fiber, while effectively saturating the lumber with water. Saturated lumber won't easily accept a stain, and if it does, you'll be haunted by the peel monster a few months later as this excess moisture looks to escape.

Basically, this deck's got to be dry before you stain. As a result, we sweep, apply a little cleaner, then rinse. Next, we sand. Clear and semi-transparent finishes will require you sanding your deck before applying the product. Sanding opens the pores of the woods surface, and exposes the grain of the lumber. Clear and semi-transparent products can't simply rest on the surface of the wood like an opaque stain or paint due to the fact they lack body, or the solids, to resist wear. Clears and semis must be absorbed into the wood in order for them to really "grab" a hold of the surface, and ultimately protect your decking. Plus, exposing the grain is presumably why you chose a clear or semi-transparent color in the first place. Clears and semis that are applied to new or older deck lumber that haven't been sanded will either peel, or rub off within a year. Opaque stains and deck/floor paints are my preferred choice of finish for decks because they offer the best protection against wood deterioration, while outlasting a clear or semi finish by at least a year or two.

The less time spent painting, or replacing boards, the more time I can spend on my boat. Because most wood decks are either constructed of treated lumber or cedar, rot or insect infiltration are rarely an issue. However, if left unfinished, these quality woods will deteriorate by means of splits and cracks due to moisture infiltrating the boards during the summer, then expanding in the winter. And, there's no guarantee against cracks or warping.

Although opaque stains and paints only require a clean surface, as opposed to a thorough pre-sanding, sanding is always a good idea. However, if you're eliminating the sanding element, apply a quality exterior grade primer instead. Anything that can help a stain stick is a good thing, and the primer will play the dual task of sealing the wood as well.

"When do I stain my new decking planks?" is a common question. The simple answer is, "when they're dry". However, the definition of "dry" is practically subject to the same interpretation as to what temperature and timing is required to cook the perfect steak. The treated manufacturers recommend waiting 6-12 months, which will certainly allow the lumber to dry out, but perhaps a little excessively, to the point where you'll have surface cracks deep enough to risk losing the family shih tzu as it trots across. Basically, a 2-3 week time period of dry, windy weather, should reduce the moisture content of the wood to the point where it's ready to accept a stain. Unfortunately, getting 2-3 weeks of steady, rain-free temperatures, could pose a challenge. That's where the power of your faith comes in.

Next week, testing for "dry" and a few application tips.

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Handyman Hints: Getting ready to stain