In recent years, we've had to deal with a multitude of different smart home hubs to run all our different devices. Thankfully, though, the Matter protocol is quickly allowing us to fold all of our smart-home tech under one central control hub. Those hubs can be an app in your phone, like Google Home, HomeKit, or Alexa, but physical hubs make it easier for everyone in your home to control things. The Brilliant Home Control, a physical hub that can stand alone or replace a wall switch, gives us a sense of whats comingand although theres still room for growth, its pretty awe-inspiring.

Brilliant is a beauty queen. It splits the hub into two parts: a digital touchscreen on the left, and touch sliders on the right. You can choose how many sliders you have, depending on what kind of switch youre replacing. In the wired version, you can choose from one to four switches, and in the plug-in version, you have two sliders. (Since these are not directly wired, youll get to choose what these control). When theres no activity around it, the screen goes to sleep, then uses motion sensors to wake up as people approach, displaying photos of your choice as the screen background. Its so aware that I didnt even realize it slept until I read it in the specs and tested it. Most of the time, youll interact with the sliders to control lights nearby.

While the plug-in Home Control mounts wherever you want it, the wired version takes a little more work. Evenstill, I was impressed with the innovations. As with most smart devices, installation requires a neutral line (the white wire, usually). While the instructional videos didnt match the current version of the wiring panel, it turned out to be much simpler than these installations usually are. That's because Brilliant actually senses which is the load wire and which is the line wire, and it doesnt matter which order you wire them up. This solves the issue with the vast majority of self-installed switches. Even though I live in an old house with terrible wiring, setting this up was easy, and the hub itself snapped right into place.

Once you tap the touchscreen, you can access the first of many interface screens. While theres a lot of functionality packed into this sleek panel, the UI is clean and well-designed, and I was never overwhelmed. The controls offered won't bog you down like other hubs, and youre never more than two swipes from home. From here, you can set up shortcuts to whatever actions you want, whether those are whole routines or simple one-off functions. Along the bottom is a row of icons that allow you to jump to other screens, including scenes, which lets you set up presets similar to Google Home and HomeKit. Perhaps you want a series of actions for first thing in the morning or before bed, or "party mode" for when guests are over. From here, you can jump to "rooms," which separates your devices by room, music, cameras, intercom, or alarms.

Almost immediately after I set up my Home Control, it started finding integrations, alerting me that Sonos was nearby. Moments later, I had limited access to my Sonos devices. (In almost all cases, hubs dont offer all the functions that native apps do.) I could control all my Sonos, and for music, pull from recently used queues. While I couldn't really search for new music, Brilliant did offer a link to open the native Sonos app to complete actions it didnt have in its own hub. It then found my SmartThings devices without me having to do anything, and guided me through integrating those devices. It found my Ring doorbell, and it blew me away by bringing the video from the doorbell to the Home Control.What's more, Brilliant has both a camera and intercom on board. If you have multiple Home Controls installed, you can access video feeds between them, or, alternatively, use them as an intercom system.

You can use the app to control many things the Home Control allows you to, including arranging rooms, adding devices or integrations,and also adding photos to your screensaver on the Brilliant's display.

When you like a device as much as I like the Brilliant, it hurts when you hit a wall. That wall here is integrations. For a hub to work as the only main smart system, it has to integrate with all the things. While Brilliant does support Matter, the standard thatll make that possible, their current integration list is woefully short. Sure, the major players are there: Philips, August, Schlage, Sonos, Ring, and Nest, as well as hubs like Google, HomeKit, and Alexa. But many of us have a circus of devices in our homes, like Meross, Sylvania, SmartLife, Rachio, Midea, LG, and Samsung. Without a way to bring those devices in, those shortcuts, scenes, and rooms don't live up to their potential.

Speaking of Alexa brings up my second issue: Brilliant only works with Google Home and HomeKit in a limited way, and it clearly favors Alexa. In fact, Alexa gets a spot in the bottom row of icons, with no way to delete or edit it. If you have Alexa, great. But if you have Google or HomeKit, all youre getting from the integration is the ability to control the wired-in lights operated by the sliders via Google Assistant or HomeKit. We need triggers and automations, so being able to bring those in from Google and HomeKit are essential. Although its by no means my favorite long-term solution, Id have expected at least an IFTTT integration to get around part of that problem, and you should be able to choose the voice assistant of your liking to replace that icon.

Are those integrations coming? Yes, and even without them, Matter is being deployed to more platforms every year. But if your home is built on a foundation of Meross smart plugs or Levoit switches, this might not be the time to grab a Brilliant yet.

Even with these faults, the Brilliant Home Control is a feature-filled, aesthetically pleasing piece of tech. Over time, I have confidence Brilliant will integrate more products and lines. Again, Matter is coming. Brilliant has committed on paper to the standard. But with prices starting at $399 for the plug-in or one-switch wired version, its an expensive option. If the majority of smart tech in your home isnt on their integration list, wait until next year. Otherwise, this is a worthy hub that will integrate into your home in a way no tablet has yet.

Go here to see the original:
Control (Almost) All of Your Smart-Home Tech With the Brilliant ... - Lifehacker

Pete Armstrong, CEO of Mixergy, says that, as we move towards net-zero, it is crucial that the newest renewables-connected water storage systems remain fast, convenient, and cost-effective for end-users.

The way we heat water in our homes is changing at an increasing pace, and with looming net-zero targets, a fabric-first approach to designing heating systems is growing in importance. However, even though our hot water energy consumption is likely to increase, householders still need fast and convenient hot water that does not become a greater burden on their already volatile energy bills.

As we make the move from heating our homes with gas to electricity, whether we are installing a heat pump, solar panels, or electric storage heaters, the only way of achieving quick-filling baths or running a typical power shower within the capacity of the electrical grid is through storing hot water.

A typical gas supply can easily deliver 30kW of instantaneous power to a combi boiler for the production of on-demand hot water. A typical electricity supply, by comparison, can only deliver a maximum of 18kW, meaning it struggles to deliver the instant power needed for a high flow rate shower, alongside all the other competing demands in the home.

Consider that the future demands on our mains connections also include EV chargers (7.5kW). For this reason, we need to produce hot water more gradually in hot water tanks whichever way we go about it (direct electric or heat pump).

So, when replacing a system or heat-only boiler, where theres already a cylinder in place, its important to engage in a conversation with the homeowner about futureproofing their heating system. For example, the Mixergy smart cylinder has received validation from the Energy Saving Trust for being up to 21% more efficient than traditional cylinders when operating with a standard gas system boiler, while at the same time being heat pump and solar-ready.

This proactive approach allows homeowners to make choices that can contribute to significant cost savings today, while being prepared for either a heat pump or solar panel installation in the future, thanks to easily installed retrofit solutions.

Flexible tariffs

Flexible electricity tariffs are becoming more available as the rollout of the latest generation of smart meters is completed. Second generation smart meters allow energy suppliers to operate real-time dynamic pricing, which means that whenever the wind blows, lower cost electricity can be passed through to the householder.

Were all familiar with Economy 7 tariffs where the cost plummets for seven hours at night, however we are now entering into a world of Economy 24/7, which means the energy supplier can turn on your hot water whenever excess electricity is being generated.

Traditional Economy 7 cylinders would have two heating elements; a bottom heating element connected to the off-peak supply, and a top element connected to a permanently live feed to allow for a quick boost. Tariffs will become much more flexible and this flexibility is core to what Mixergy is about.

Thermal stratification

Exploiting thermal stratification is one way we can make our hot water storage more energy efficient. Simply put, thermal stratification is the result of heat rising; hot air rises above cooler air and hot water floats on top of cooler water.

Most hot water cylinders work by heating the water using coils or a thermostat at the bottom of the cylinder, and then heating all the water in it, like a big kettle, irrespective of how much hot water is actually needed.

The Mixergy cylinder starts by heating a small volume of water at the top of the cylinder and then growing that volume downwards. The Mixergy cylinder therefore behaves a bit like a traditional Economy 7 tariff, but one with an infinite number of heating elements, meaning the user as much control as they like on how much or how little to heat.

Using thermal stratification and smart technology, the tank only heats the water needed, reducing heat losses. And the water gets to a useful temperature quicker. In addition to saving energy, only heating the water needed leaves more space to accommodate surplus solar energy for properties equipped with solar panels, or exploit low cost energy for those on a flexible electricity tariff.

The value of heating engineers

Good heating engineering, refurbishment, and building demands a high level of technical skill. This is true whether were talking system specification from heat loss calculations, making good after upgrading pipework, or making sure that controls operate together seamlessly.

In the UK, we should really consider our tradespeople as craftspeople, as they do in other parts of Europe.

I think we need to break down the delineation between the trades, particularly electrical and plumbing. The idea you need a plumber for pipework and an electrician for wires is prohibitive when installing new technologies.

The first thing I would recommend is that heating engineers get their Part P and 18th Edition Wiring qualifications. Without these, it becomes very difficult to do a heat pump installation with multi-room TRVs, thermostats, and smart technology. For a qualified gas engineer, it isnt a big step to qualify to do electrics.

Having additional skills alongside the core plumbing and heating tickets around MCS, Unvented G3, Gas Safe, and so on, will give heating engineers much more flexibility to deal with a wide range of projects.

Theres a shortage of heating engineers in general and a growing need for renewable installers. We need to find a way to encourage more into the sector. Keeping people warm while helping bring the transition to net-zero is a highly rewarding, appreciated, and sought-after skillset.

In conclusion, I hope that if you are a heating engineer who is reading this, you fully appreciate the value of your skills at this crucial time and that you might consider talking to your customers about the role that smart cylinders can play in getting the best from your gas boiler while being renewable ready, whether thats with a PV installation, a heat pump, or simply flexible tariffs.

See the article here:
Water heating for net-zero: what installers need to know - Heating, Ventilating & Plumbing

My frustrating, yet fruitful journey of ICE'ing up my Ford Figo with the Pioneer DMH-Z6350BT

The purpose of this thread is to take you through my journey of ICEing my Figo and to also serve as a guide for the Figo and the Aspire owners who want to upgrade their infotainment system(non-Android).

Prologue-

The itch to upgrade the ICE started back in 2019 with all the new cars coming with huge screens with support for Android Auto and Carplay. Even the Aspire and the Freestyle had got the updated Sync3 systems. I remember coming across various Android systems during this time but I was concerned with their long-term performance and cheap-looking UI.

And then COVID hit us all and the thoughts of an upgrade quickly left my mind. Of course, the extended warranty also made me wary of such an upgrade.

June 2023-

I came across these 'Woodman' Android systems and started to search more about them and Android stereos in general. While the cheap looking UI was still an issue, there were a lot of positives. However, the deeper I went into this, the more I realised why Androids weren't the way forward for me. My reasons for not going for Android are as follows-

1. Cheap-looking UI. No offense to the Android users but I really hate the generic Android HU UIs. I tried to come up with a different word to substitute the word 'cheap' but none could quite deliver the message more appropriately.

2. Long-term reliability and performance- Most of us are Android users and even with 6, 8, or 12 gigs of RAM, more often than not, in a matter of 2-3 years, our phones do slow down and after 5-6 years, they start to become unusable. Most of these Androids have 2 gigs or 4 gigs of RAM. There are 8GB options available as well but they cost more than 30-35k and even then, with 8 gigs of RAM, the long-term reliability is still a question mark.

3. Updating the apps- Since an Android HU is nothing but an Android tablet adapted to function like an HU, it needs to be updated just like an Android phone. In contrast, the HUs from Sony and Pioneer rarely require updates and when it comes to AA and CP, it is your phone that does all the heavy lifting, and all the apps are updated as long as you update these apps on your phone.

4. Size of the HU- Unless you go for an ancient Android HU, you only get 9'' and 10'' Android HUs. 9'' and 10'' have become the standard size for Android HUs now but the centre console of the Figo is clearly not suited for these sizes. This is how a 9-inch Android HU looks in the Figo-

As you can see, a 9-inch HU looks quite out of place in a Figo or an Aspire. Also, the hazard button switch does not fit properly in the frame.

July 2023-

I got the RCD 360 Pro for my Father's Jetta which comes with wired AA and CP.

This made the itch to upgrade even harder not to scratch.

August 2023-

The itch to upgrade was ever-growing, but a few things kept holding me back.

1. Extended warranty-

My car was and is still under extended warranty. Ford has in fact introduced EW for the 8th year as well. So I can, if I want, have EW until August 2025. Currently, my car is covered until August 2024. And while coupler-to-coupler fitting does not generally void warranty, but you never know. There is always a chance.

2. Stage 2 Remap-

At a lesser cost than an ICE upgrade, I could get my car remapped to Stage 2 from the current Stage 1. However, since my car is under EW, I was hesitant to take this route. And thus, I was caught in this never-ending cycle.

Itch to upgrade ICE- Warranty concerns- Thinking of spending the money for a stage 2 remap- Warranty concerns- Back to square one.

To be very honest, the trigger for me was the introduction of the 8th year EW by Ford. Yes, instead of being a deterrent, it acted as a catalyst since I was quite sure that I didn't wanna wait that long for an upgrade. And thus, started a rather painful journey of ICEing my Figo.

The first step towards getting an ICE was to get a frame suitable for a 7 inch HU. I had posted about it here on my ownership thread-

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...ml#post5604700 (Conquering the heart & mind with my Ford Figo 1.5L TDCi Titanium! Now Code6'd)

BHPian SaiSW responded and suggested me to approach Wavehertz, Delhi for the frame. I did message him for the same but was put off by the high quoted price of 4k. They only had 1 frame in stock. So at the end of August, I ordered, a 7 inch Frame suitable for my car from these links on Amazon-

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07...ustomerReviews

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0B...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, the final product which came was actually a 9-inch frame. This is what it looked like-

I reached out again to Wavehertz and by the time I was ready to order, the frame had gone out of stock. Throughout the next couple of days, I contacted at least 15 car accessory vendors throughout India for a 7-inch frame without any success. I was left perplexed and frustrated that my ICE upgrade may not proceed ahead due to the lack of availability of the 7-inch frame. These are the perks of owning a non-popular car from a non-popular brand that has shut shop in India. Call it my luck or whatever, but an accessory shop very close to me in Vashi(Navi Mumbai) had 1 frame in stock and offered the same for 150 bucks. However, this frame was in very poor condition. Pretty sure that this was at least 3-4 years old. This is how it looked-

And with this, I thought that my troubles were over. Oh, how wrong was I?

September 2023-

I was contemplating the HU to go for and had almost finalised the Sony XAV-AX6000. It comes with wireless AA and CP and wired AA. It also comes with HDMI and a single camera input. But then, I saw this post by BHPian Yesterdaysnews-

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-e...a-etios-5.html (ICE upgrade : Toyota Etios)

The above post made me contemplate between the Pioneer DMH-Z6350BT and the Sony XAV-AX6000 but the price at which the Pioneer was being offered made me go for it. I got in touch with BHPian Yesterdaysnews and we agreed on a price of 26k for the HU. I did though also procure an amp and sub from him and paid 31k in total. Meanwhile, I had got the frame Hydro dipped at H20 Graphix in Dadar. Paid 1800 for the same. This is how the frame looked after-

I had also ordered the required accessories to go with the HU, namely, the micro HDMI to HDMI male cable, the USB C cable(male to female, USB OTG cable, the HDMI male to USB C adapter, the aux cable and the front and rear cameras. I have provided the links to all the accessories that I ordered in a later post.

After getting the HU and the frame, I was all excited and went to get the HU fitted on 16th September(Saturday) at Paras Car Decor in Vashi. As soon as the existing HU was opened up, I was told that wire cutting would be required to enable the steering controls. This was not acceptable to me. I asked the fitter as to how we can avoid wire cutting and I was suggested to order a suitable coupler from Delhi. Post this, I was running from pillar to post and going to various other installers and also contacting some others over Whatsapp to get a solution to this. Out of desperation, I went to an installer who wasn't very good and he ended up damaging my HDMI cable. Lesson learned- never make a major decision when you are either very happy or very desperate.

I got in touch with BHPian VWALLstar and he suggested me to get in touch with a different installer in Vashi.

After going to this installer, I got to know that there is a separate wiring harness that is required to get steering controls working in a Pioneer. This is what that harness looks like-

This was missing from the package which was sent to me. The owner at Paras Car Decor had 1 such harness with him but even he wasn't sure if this was the right one. Anyway, I went back to him straight away and got the harness for 500 bucks as a failsafe.

I contacted Wavehertz again and ordered the coupler along with the radio coupler. However, I was told even by Wavehertz that wire cutting shall be needed for Pioneer. Post this, I waited for the harness to arrive patiently.

October 2023-

As they say, An idle mind is the devil's workshop , during my wait for the harness to arrive, I started to think of my upgrade more holistically. I was concerned about the wiring and its positioning. Putting them in the glovebox was the safe route. However, 2 factors made me reconsider this-

1. Putting wires in the glovebox is as good as not having wires in the first place. They never get used.

2. As per the feedback from BHPian SaiSW, the wires in the glovebox get squished when the glovebox is closed.

These factors made me think of an alternate positioning for the wires and this trim in my car caught my attention-

I was initially thinking of ordering this trim which used to come with the Titanium+ trim-

But since I also needed to have an outlet for the HDMI cable, I quickly realised that this shall not work. Finally, I decided to make use of the current trim itself. I ordered this rectangular grommet-

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The idea was to make a cut in the existing trim and fit the grommet inside that opening from which the wires shall be routed out-

However, this turned out to be a size too big for the trim. I then ordered this circular grommet(19mm open grommet is out of stock)-

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0C...1?ie=UTF8&th=1

I got the trim laser cut and fit this grommet inside the hole(the hole was 21mm in Diameter)-

What I also discovered during this time was that the USB C cable that I had ordered had gone bad, the male part of the cable had gone loose and wouldn't stay put inside any female slot. So I ordered another cable of UGREEN make.

In the meantime, the coupler from Wavehertz had also arrived-

Finally, armed with all the accessories, I headed to the accessory shop to get the fitment done.

Read the original post:
My frustrating, yet fruitful journey of ICE'ing up my Ford Figo with the ... - Team-BHP

Published 11-15-23

Submitted by Pepco

WASHINGTON,November 15, 2023 /CSRwire/- As winter approaches, Pepco is readying the local energy grid by performing essential work to help meet increased customer demand and keep homes and businesses warm and bright all season long.

The company is working to harden the system and increase reliability and performing maintenance and inspections ahead of potential severe winter storms. On the electric grid, this work includes inspecting nearly 850 miles of overhead power lines and 200 underground manholes, upgrading equipment, trimming trees, installing new underground equipment, and installing stronger, tree-resistant aerial cable. Pepco also continues to install smart technologies to improve system reliability, such as specialized equipment that can automatically restore service faster or isolate damage.

Our customers count on us every day for dependable energy that can power a safe, comfortable environment for their homes and businesses, said Tamla Olivier, chief operating officer for Pepco Holdings, which includes Pepco. Our teams are working diligently to prepare and strengthen the local energy grid, making it more resilient against harsh weather conditions, so that we can meet that need throughout the colder winter season. We also urge our customers to take proactive measures to prepare for potential winter storms and have a plan should adverse weather impact our region."

Just as Pepco prepares, the company encourages customers to also be ready for severe weather and offers the following tips:

In addition, customers can visit pepco.com/alerts before winter weather grips the region and sign up to receive updates on their energy usage and information regarding power outages via text, email, or phone, including when power is out, when service is expected to be restored, or when power is restored. Customers can also text ADD OUTAGE to 48710 to enroll in the companys two-way texting program to report outages and check the status of their outage. More tips and storm preparedness information is available at pepco.com/StormPrep.

To learn more about Pepco, visit The Source, Pepcos online newsroom. Find additional information by visiting pepco.com, on Facebook at facebook.com/PepcoConnect on Twitter at twitter.com/PepcoConnect. Pepcos mobile app is available at pepco.com/MobileApp.

# # #

Pepco is a unit of Exelon (Nasdaq: EXC), a Fortune 250 company and the nations largest utility company, serving more than 10 million customers. Pepco provides safe and reliable energy service to approximately 919,000 customers in the District of Columbia and Maryland.

Contact: Rod Wilson Pepco Communications 202-872-2680 (media hotline)

Pepco is a unit of Exelon (Nasdaq: EXC), a Fortune 250 company and the nations largest utility company, serving more than 10 million customers. Pepco provides safe and reliable energy service to approximately 919,000 customers in the District of Columbia and Maryland.

More from Pepco

Read the original post:
Pepco Prepares Energy Grid for Winter Weather and Encourage - CSRwire.com

I've reviewed a number of Arlo's smart home cameras in the past, and have found them to be one of the best security camera brands. We also know from experience at Digital Camera World that, around Black Friday, a lot of attention is put on smart security cameras especially from Ring and Blink that, dare we suggest it, have the advantage of being Amazon-owned brands.

We don't know if that's why Arlo discounts have started even before Black Friday Week (which starts tomorrow), but I am happy to say that the deals are very attractive, and even better at other retailers, especially on the Arlo Essential Spotlight camera, which has dropped by a good amount half on its own and in a 3-pack.

We gave this camera a 5-star review, combining as it does a battery (so you don't need to drill through walls to install it) and a spotlight so it can provide color images of visitors welcome or otherwise even at night.

For those looking for a serious high-res alternative, then the bundles extend there too, with savings of over $300 for a full-site pack which still doesn't need any wiring. Again the Arlo Pro 4 Spotlight did well in my own review 4 and a half stars and I use it to protect my own home.

We also keep a guide to the best indoor security cameras which is well worth looking at, and Arlo do have spots on our best HomeKit cameras guide too.

Read the original post:
Some Arlo security cameras more than 50% off an early start on ... - Digital Camera World

Trailer Wiring Diagram and Installation Help - Towing 101

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Any vehicle towing a trailer requires trailer connector wiring to safely connect the taillights, turn signals, brake lights and other necessary electrical systems.

If your vehicle is not equipped with a working trailer wiring harness, there are a number of different solutions to provide the perfect fit for your specific vehicle. Complete with acolor coded trailer wiring diagram of each plug type, this guide walks through each available solution, including custom wiring, splice-in wiring and replacement wiring.

If you're looking to replace the wiring on your trailer, check out ourtrailer rewiring guide.

A. Custom wiring

Vehicle-specific plug-and-play harness that requires no splicing and provides a standard trailer connector

B. Splice-in wiring

Taillight converter that splices into your existing vehicle wiring and provides a standard trailer connector

Custom wiring is the ideal solution for installing trailer light wiring on your vehicle. A custom wiring harness or 'T-connector' is a vehicle-specific harness that plugs in without any spicing required and provides a standard connector output, such as a 4-way flat.

All CURT custom wiring comes with the exact components needed for a complete installation on the vehicle, including vehicle-specific plugs and an electrical converter, if needed.

Another type of custom wiring is original-equipment (OE) wiring or USCAR wiring. Select vehicles come with a standardized USCAR socket that provides a connection point for a CURT OE wiring harness.

Like a T-connector, anoriginal equipment wiring harnessplugs into the USCAR socket without any cutting, splicing or soldering required, and it provides a standard trailer wiring output, such as a 4-way flat or 7-way RV blade.

Learn more about USCAR wiring

If custom wiring is not available for your particular make and model, a taillight converter may be required to equip your vehicle with the proper trailer light wiring connection.

A taillight converter or electrical converter splices into your vehicle and provides a standard trailer plug wiring connector, typically a 4-way flat. The converter converts the vehicle's complex wiring system to be compatible with your trailer's simple wiring system. To learn more about vehicle wiring systems, check out ourvehicle wiring systems guide.

If the trailer plug wiring on your vehicle or trailer is damaged or not working correctly, you can replace the connector with a CURT splice-in plug or socket.

Plugs (trailer side) and sockets (vehicle side) are available in all standard formats and can be spliced into your existing tow wiring. Find the trailer light wiring diagram below that corresponds to your existing configuration.

If you are rewiring your trailer completely, check out ourtrailer rewiring guide.

Following the standard method for wiring a trailer connector is vital to the safety of your vehicle while towing. Connecting the wrong color wires will result in mismatched taillight functions and confusion on the road.

Use this 4-pin wiring diagram to properly wire your 4-wire trailer plug.

GreenRight turn / brakesYellowLeft turn / brakesBrownTaillightsWhiteGround

5-pin trailer wiring is very similar to 4-pin wiring, but it adds in a blue wire for the reverse or backup lights.

Not all trailers have reverse lights, so consider your own trailer as you wire in a 5-way plug.

BlueReverse lightsGreenRight turn / brakesYellowLeft turn / brakesBrownTaillightsWhiteGround

6-pin trailer wiring introduces two new functions, a wire for connecting trailer brakes and a wire for +12-volt auxiliary power.

6-way wiring is most common on gooseneck trailers and allows for use with a brake controller.

BrownTaillightsBlueElectric brakesGreenRight turn / brakesYellowLeft turn / brakesWhiteGroundBlack+12 volt

The 7-way round trailer plug is to be distinguished from 7-way RV blade plugs. The wiring connections and placement are different.

Be sure to review your own trailer connector before wiring.

WhiteGround BrownTaillights GreenRight turn / brakes RedAuxiliary power YellowLeft turn / brakes BlackReverse lights BlueElectric brakes

The SAE configuration of a 7-way RV blade plug should not be confused with the traditional configuration. Different wire colors are used for different functions.

Review your own trailer before wiring.

BrownTaillightsYellowLeft turn / brakesWhiteGroundBlueElectric brakesGreenRight turn / brakesOrange+12 voltGreyReverse lights

7-pin trailer wiring is one of the most popular wiring configruations, particularly the traditional configuration versus the SAE J2863.

Use this 7-pin trailer wiring diagram to properly wire your 7-pin trailer plug.

GreenTaillights RedLeft turn / brakes WhiteGround BlueElectric brakes BrownRight turn / brakes Black+12 volt YellowReverse lights

Note: Not all trailers are equipped with reverse lights (yellow wire). The position of this wire may vary for your own specific setup.

Note: The ground wire color on all trailer plug types is always white. Other colors vary in function, depending on the configuration.

Download complete table

The traditional 7-way RV blade format is typically used on 5th wheel trailers, travel trailers and campers. The trailer wiring colors for this configuration are different than those on the SAE configuration.

The SAE J2863 7-way RV blade format is typically used on gooseneck trailers, utility trailers, cargo trailers and equipment trailers.

Trailers are equipped with different plug types based on their electrical components. The chart below provides examples of common trailers and the types of plugs they typically use.

Utility trailer

4-way flat

6-way round

7-way RV blade

Boat trailer without surge brakes

4-way flat

7-way RV blade (rarely used)

Boat trailer with surge brakes

5-way flat

6-way round

7-way RV blade

Pop up camper

6-way square

6-way round

Travel trailer

7-way RV blade

6-way round

7-way round

5th wheel trailer

7-way RV blade

6-way round

Gooseneck trailer

6-way round

7-way RV blade

Learn more about different trailer types here. Refer to the wiring diagrams above for functions of trailer wiring colors.

Discover more great tips and how-tos on theLippert blog-- your destination for all things RVing, towing, boating and beyond!

Go here to read the rest:
Trailer Wiring Diagram and Installation Help - Towing 101

WiringPi is PRE-INSTALLED with standard Raspbian systems. Please DO NOT try to follow any installation instructions you may be given anywhere else. THIS PAGE is the definitive and proper way to do it.

Also note: WiringPi is developed and tested on a Raspberry Pi ONLY. It is for C and RTB BASIC programs on. If you are trying to install it on anything else, then good luck.

is all you need.

WiringPi is maintained under GIT for ease of change tracking, however there is a Plan B if youre unable to use GIT for whatever reasons (usually your firewall will be blocking you, so do check that first!)

Note: wiringPi is NOT hosted on Github. There are many forks that you may find there, but they are not the original version maintained by myself.

To view the wiringPi sources, then go to:

https://git.drogon.net/

and select the wiringPi link.

First check that wiringPi is not already installed. In a terminal, run:

If you get something, then you have it already installed. The next step is to work out if its installed via a standard package or from source. If you installed it from source, then you know what youre doing carry on but if its installed as a package, you will need to remove the package first. To do this:

Then carry on.

If you do not have GIT installed, then under any of the Debian releases (e.g. Raspbian), you can install it with:

If you get any errors here, make sure your Pi is up to date with the latest versions of Raspbian: (this is a good idea to do regularly, anyway)

To obtain WiringPi using GIT:

If you have already used the clone operation for the first time, then

Will fetch an updated version then you can re-run the build script below.

To build/install there is a new simplified script:

The new build script will compile and install it all for you it does use the sudo command at one point, so you may wish to inspect the script before running it.

Click on this URL: (it should open in a new page)

https://git.drogon.net/?p=wiringPi;a=summary

Then look for the link marked snapshot at the right-hand side. You want to click on the top one.

This will download a tar.gz file with a name like wiringPi-98bcb20.tar.gz. Note that the numbers and letters after wiringPi (98bcb20 in this case) will probably be different theyre a unique identifier for each release.

You then need to do this to install:

Note that the actual filename will be different you will have to check the name and adjust accordingly.

run the gpio command to check the installation:

That should give you some confidence that its working OK.

WiringPi is released under the GNU Lesser Public License version 3.

See the article here:
Raspberry Pi | Wiring | Download & Install | Wiring Pi

Single Phase 120V/230V Distribution and Panel Board Wiring in Home

Single Phase wiring installation is the most common wiring in residential buildings. In Single Phase supply (230V in UK, EU and 120V & 240V in the US & Canada), there are two (one is Line (aka Phase, Hot or Live) and the other one is Neutral) incoming cables from the utility poles to the kWh energy meter and then directly connected to the main distribution board (Consumer unit).

In this step by step tutorial, we will show how to wire a single Phase Consumer Unit Installation in home from Utility Pole to a Single-Phase Energy Meter & Single-Phase Distribution board and then How to connect Single Phase Loads in single Phase Wiring Distribution System in home electric supply system.

Before go in details, you will have to know what is a Single Phase and Three Phase Supply, their applications as well as the role of RCD, MCB, MCCB, CB, DB, MDB, Final and Sub Circuits, Fuses, Switches etc.which is already discussed in our previous electrical wiring installation tutorials.

Related Wiring Tutorials:

The following different levels of voltages are available for domestics (as residential) and commercial (as industrial) application in the US, Canada (following NEC and CNC) and UK, EU and other countries which follows the IEC e.g. India, Pakistan, UAE, KSA, Philippine, South Africa, Nigeria, Indonesia etc. The following fig at the end of this section will help you easily understand the difference between single phase and three phase voltage levels in the NEC and IEC.

In the USA, for single phase 120V and split phase or 240V, the secondary winging of the distribution transformer mounted on the utility pole is center-tapped i.e. two hot wires (Hot 1 and Hot2) and the center wire as Neutral. This way, the voltage level between Hot and Neutral is 120V single phase and voltage between two hots (Hot 1 & Hot 2) is 240V single phase.

Single Phase Voltage Levels in the USA

Three Phase Voltage Levels in the USA

i.e.

And

Related Wiring Tutorials:

In a Three Phase Wiring Distribution System (Star Connection i.e. 3 Phase, 4 Wire System); The power and distribution transformers may be wired in Star (Y) or Delta configuration). For example, the basic configuration for single phase and three phase system in the UK is 230V/400V where the primary of the distribution transformer mounted on the utility pole is connected in Delta Connection while the secondary is connected in Star or Y Connection.

This way, the Voltage between any phase and neutral is 230V single phase, while the voltage level between three lines are 400V three phase.

Single Phase Voltage Levels in the UK & EU

Three Phase Voltage in the UK & EU

I.e.

And

120V, 208V, 240V, 277V & 480V, Single Phase and Three Phase Supply Voltage Systems NEC US

120V, 208V & 240V High Leg Delta Configurations

230V & 400V Single Phase & Three Phase Power Supply Systems IEC UK & EU

Related Wiring Tutorials:

Related Posts:

To Wire and install a single phase consumer unit for electric supply distribution in multi sections of a house, follow the steps given below:

Related Posts:

Click image to enlarge

If you have to install a single phase mains distribution system in different sections around the home (large area), follow the following important things before doing so.

Related Posts:

Single Phase 120V & 240V Distribution and Panel Wiring in home.

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase 120V & 208V Distribution and Panel Wiring in home.

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase 120V & 208V & 240V (High Leg Delta) Distribution and Panel Wiring in home.

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase 277V & 480V Distribution and Panel Wiring in home.

Click image to enlarge

Good to know: it is against the code to use two separate single pole circuit breakers for 208V or 240V circuits. If you still want to connect two SP breakers as double pole for 240V circuit, the switches of both breakers should be bonded and connected together i.e. both SP breakers should be switched ON & OFF with the same common switch. In addition, use the proper rated breaker, wire size, outlets, and switches etc. (check the bottom note (instruction & precaution) for calculators and tutorials about wire size, sizing outlets, switches and socket etc.

Related Posts:

Single Phase 230V Distribution and Consumer Unit Wiring in Multi-sections of home.

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase, 230V Consumer Unit & Distribution Board Wiring with RCD

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase, 230V Split Load Consumer Unit & Distribution Board Wiring

Click image to enlarge

Single Phase, 230V Dual Split Load Consumer Unit & Distribution Board Wiring

Click image to enlarge

Good to Know: According to IET (Institution of Engineering and Technology) wiring regulations: 17th Edition (BS 7671:2008 1: 2011), an RCD protection must be provided in the consumer unit except smoke and burglar alarms system.

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There is no much difference in IEC and NEC wiring for single phase MCBs and associated wiring i.e. a single phase expect for 240V. In other words, 120V single phase load can be connected directly to the single pole MCB via three wires e.g. Black as Hot, White as Neutral and green with yellow stripe or bare conductor as protective ground.

In 240V single phase wiring, the load can be connected to the double pole MCB via three or four wires (as Neutral is always needed in that case and depends on the system design) i.e. Black as Hot 1, Red as Hot 2, White as Neutral (optional) and green/yellow stripe or bare conductor for ground wire.

Below are some typical single phase wiring diagrams used for power distribution in the home (United States of America and Canada).

Wiring Installation of Single Phase 120V Circuits & Breakers in Main Service Panel

Wiring Installation of Single Phase 120V & 240V Circuits & Breakers in Main Service Panel

Wiring Installation of Single Phase 120V & 208V Circuits & Breakers in Main Service Panel

Wiring Installation of Single Phase 120V, 208V & 240V (High Leg Delta) Circuits & Breakers in Main Service Panel

Wiring Installation of Single Phase 277V & 480V Circuits & Breakers in Main Service Panel

Related Posts:

For Single Phase Loads (230V or 120V) Washing Machines, TV, Power socket, Lighting Points, Fans etc., can be directly connected to the Phase and Neutral wire through proper wiring and controlling as shown below. Note that Earth or ground wire must be connected to each of the electrical appliances and equipment connected to both single phase and three phase supply systems to avoid electric shock and hazard.

Wiring single phase 230V load and MCB in the Distribution board and consumer unit with RCD.

Wiring single phase 230V Split Load load and MCB in the Distribution board and consumer.

Wiring single phase 230V Dual Split Load load and MCB in the Distribution board and consumer.

Related Posts:

Below is given layout wiring diagram of single phase consumer unit installation in a residential area.

Related Posts:

We have used Red for Phase, Live or Hot, Black for Neutral and Green for Earth/Ground Wire in the typical single phase wiring diagram. You may use the specific region or general practiced codes in the local area i.e. IEC International Electrotechnical Commission (UK, EU etc.) or NEC (National Electrical Code [US & Canada] see the detailed post about NEC & IEC wiring Color Codes where;

NEC USA:

Single Phase 120V AC:

Single Phase 240V AC:

Three Phase 208V & 240V AC (High Leg Delta):

Three Phase 277V & 480V AC:

IEC & UK:

Single Phase 230V AC:

Three Phase 400V:

For reference, here is the OLD UK Wiring Color Codes (Prior 2004) which still applicable in other countries i.e. India, Pakistan, UAE, KSA and other Arab Countries.

400V Three Phase

230V Single Phase

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You may also check the related Electrical Wiring Installation Tutorials.

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Single Phase Electrical Wiring Installation in Home NEC & IEC

SAFETY WARNING! Current transformers (CTs) are typically install in electrical equipment with lethal high voltage levels. Before attempting to install CTs read the CT Installation Safety page.

CAUTION! WattNode meters are designed to work only with CTs that have a 0.333 Vac output. This type of CT has a built-in burden resistor that produces a safe low voltage output signal. The use of any other type of CT will result in incorrect power measurements, and may permanently damage the WattNode meter.

Download: CT Installation and Wiring Application Note (AN-130) (PDF, 3 pages)

Accu-CT Series split-core CTs open by squeezing the knurled panels to release the latch and pull / rotate the top open. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Debris will increase the gap, decreasing accuracy. Place the CT around the conductor and rotate the top back to the closed position until the latch snaps closed. Secure the CT on the conductor using a cable tie through the CTs window and around the conductor.

CTML Series split-core CTs open by pulling up on the latch. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Debris will increase the gap, decreasing accuracy. Place the CT around the conductor and squeeze closed until you hear the latch snap closed.

CTS Series and CTBL Series split-core CT models can be opened for installation around a conductor or bus-bar. These CTs have two parts, a C shaped body and an I section which is removed for installation. To open a CTS model split-core CT, pull the I section straight-out of the C shaped body. To open a CTBL model bus bar CT, first remove the thumb-screws that secure the I section. A strong pull is required, especially when the CT is brand new.

The removable section only fits one way, so as it is removed, notice how the steel core pieces fit together. When closing the CT, be sure to match up the ends the same way. If the CT seems to jam and does not close, the steel core pieces are probably not aligned correctly. Do Not Use Excessive Force! Instead, re-position or rock the removable portion until the CT closes without excessive force.

After a CTS model split-core CT has been reassembled, a nylon cable tie may be secured around the perimeter of the CT to prevent accidental opening. On CTBL bus bar models, reinstall the nylon screws and tighten them with your fingers. Do Not Use A Screwdriver!

Note that the C shaped body and the removable I section of opening style CT are calibrated as a single unit. For best accuracy, these parts should not be interchanged with other CTs.

Solid-core CTs require that the phase conductor being measured be disconnected at one end so that it can be passed it through the opening in the CT. This is not difficult when the wire gauge is small but becomes impractical with larger wire gauges and multi parallel conductors.

For correct measurements, CTs must be installed on the phase conductor that corresponds to the voltage input connection. The voltage input connections are on the green, five position, screw terminal block. For example, the A CT must be installed on the same phase conductor that is connected to A Voltage input. Likewise, the B CT is installed on the same phase as the B Voltage input, and the C CT input is installed on the C Voltage input. It may help to use colored tape or labels to identify the wires.

To reduce magnetic interference between CTs on adjacent phases, it is a good practice to separate them by about 1 inch (25 mm). This also helps to prevent dust and debris from forming a bridge across the phase conductor terminals or bus bars and possibly causing a flashover arc.

For best accuracy, the CT opening shouldnt be more than 50% larger than the phase conductor. If the CT opening is much bigger than the conductor, position the conductor in the center in the CT opening. If that is not possible, try to position the conductor in the bottom of the U shaped half of the CT, away from the opening end where there is magnetic flux leakage.

Plastic cable ties can be used to secure the position of the CT on the phase conductor. A cable tie can also be secured around the perimeter of some models of CTs to prevent them from accidentally opening.

Refer to the CT Selection page for more information on choosing CTs.

CTs are marked with a symbol (arrow) or label which indicates the correct mechanical orientation of the CT on the conductor being measured. Find the arrow or label This side towards source on the CT and install the CT with the label or arrow facing toward the current source: generally the utility meter or the circuit breaker.

In addition to installing CTs with the correct mechanical orientation, electrical polarity, as indicated by their white and black wires must also be correct. Each pair of CT wires connects to the appropriate terminal on the black six position screw terminal block. The terminals are labeled A CT, B CT, and C CT. The polarity of each pair of terminals is indicated by a white and black dot on the label. Be sure to connect the white wire to the phase terminal aligned with the white dot, and the black wire to the terminal with the black dot.

Remember that both the physical orientation and the electrical polarity of each phase must be correct for proper operation. If a phase is reversed either electrically or mechanically, and current flows in the reverse direction, the WattNode meter will measure, depending on the model, zero or negative energy for that phase.

If the CT lead wires are longer than necessary, they can be shortened. Short CT lead wires help to minimize interference from electrical noise. If the CT lead wires need to be longer than 8 feet, they can be extended. It is generally better to install the WattNode meter near the conductors being measured instead of extending the CT wires.

However, it is possible to extend the CT wires by 100 feet (30 m) or more using shielded twisted-pair cable. The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that CT wires be run in conduit (raceway). If the distance is short, power conductors for the meters voltage inputs can run in the same conduit. However, when running longer distances, power conductors should not be run in the same conduit as CT extension wires to minimize power line noise from interfering with sensitive CT signals. Refer to the Current Transformer Wire Extension page for more information.

The NEC conduit fill table does not address twisted pair wires. CT wire gauges typically range from #20 to #18 AWG. The the diameter of a #18 AWG twisted pair CT wire is about the same diameter as a single #8 AWG insulated conductor, 0.231 in. Four #8 conductors are permitted in a 3/4 in.

If running several sets of CT lead wires in one conduit, assume each meter takes 3 x #8 conductors and use the NEC conduit fill table to estimate the conduit size required. For example, CT leads for three meters would be equivalent to 9 x #8 AWG conductors. From the table, we see 7 x #8 conductors are permitted in a 1 in. conduit and 12 x #8 conductors in a 1-1/4 in. If the run was long with several bends, an 1-1/4 in. conduit would be best.

Because the CT inputs of the WattNode transducer are susceptible to damage from electrostatic discharge (ESD), always ground yourself momentarily by touching the electrical enclosure or other grounded metal object before touching the transducer. This is a good practice to follow with all electronic equipment sensitive to ESD.

To connect the CT lead wires to the CT input terminals, first strip about 1/4 (6 mm) of insulation off the end of one of the wires, twist the bare strands together, insert the end into the terminal block, and tighten the screw securely. It will be easier to connect the wires to the terminal block if the block is first plugged into the meter.

Unused CT inputs could possibly pickup electrical noise, so it is a good practice to short out unused CT input terminals by connecting a wire jumper about 1 inch long between the white and black CT terminals. This is usually not a concern if there is no line voltage connected to the corresponding voltage input terminal.

Keywords: CT, current transformer, installation, wiring, connecting

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CT Installation and Wiring - Continental Control Systems, LLC

1. Conduit Wiring and Installation Methods

Conduit wiring is a system of wiring using tubes (pipes) either steel or PVC, to provide good mechanical protection for its conductors drawn inside the tubes. It also gives high degree of protection from fire hazards to its conductors. Conduit pipes will be installed on the surface of walls or roofs by means of saddles or hooks or concealed inside the wall or roof or floor.

Modern building construction adopts conduit wiring (PVC conduit or GI conduit both in various mechanical strength depending on site requirement and project specification) and found mainly in two types: 1) Surface or Open type conduit installation, and 2) Recessed or Concealed type conduit installation.

Steel Conduits and Fittings are made out of heavy / medium / light gauge steel. It uses different technologies for manufacturing these tubes depending its thickness and surface treatments.

Galvanized Rigid Steel Conduit is recognized as the safest and most protective form of electrical raceway. It is important that steel conduit provides excellent physical / mechanical protection for wiring, and also acts as a ground shield, reducing EMI (electro-magnetic interference due to field emission) and minimizing any effect of external RFI (radio frequency interference). It is also act as an equipment ground conductor in a circuit, thereby reducing wiring requirements and simplifying installation. Steel Conduit can be installed indoors and outdoors, in dry locations or wet locations, exposed or concealed, in all atmospheric conditions and in hazardous locations.

Galvanized Electrical Metallic Tubing (EMT) is similar to rigid steel conduit but is much lighter, weighing approximately 40 percent as much as rigid steel conduit of the same nominal size. EMT can be used for both exposed or concealed work provided, where during installation or afterwards, it is not subjected to severe physical damage. Use of EMT is restricted to systems not exceeding 600 volts and to non-hazardous locations except (Class II Division 2 NEC Section 502-4 (b). Galvanized Steel EMT installed in concrete on grade or above generally requires no supplementary corrosion protection. However, when installed in concrete below grade level and in contact with soil or cinders supplementary corrosion protection consisting of a protective coating of bitumastic or asphalt base paint or plastic is generally applied. According to NEC Section 348-1, EMT run in or under permanently moist cinder fill must be encased in at least two inches of cinder free concrete unless the conduit is at least 18 inches below the fill.

1. Wires: Unless otherwise specified all wires shall be PVC insulated single core, stranded copper conductor conforming to BS 6004. All wires shall be colored as follows:

The size of wires shall be as indicated in the drawings.

2. Telephone Cables: The telephone cable used for telephone socket outlet shall be twin pairs 22 AWG, PVC insulated copper conductor wires, UL approved. The telephone cables used as main feeder connecting the telephone junction boxes to main telephone junction boxes shall be multi-pairs type, as specified on drawings.

3. Flexible Cords: The cords to connect short extension to the luminaries, immersion heaters, equipment etc. shall be heat resisting PVC insulated to BS 6500 - 1969 with copper conductors.

1. Unless otherwise specified all wiring accessories shall be Standard British type. The exact type & model shall be as specified in the drawings, bill of quantities or herein in the specific.

2. Outlet, Pull box, Junction Boxes and Fittings.

Each outlet, junction or pull box shall be of proper type, class and construction to suit the specific conditions encountered. Outlet pull box or junction boxes shall be conforming with IEE regulations and other applicable requirements that have been established by the various agencies, codes and authorities.

2.1 Outlets for light points, convenient socket outlets, power outlets, switch boxes, pull / junction boxes shall be code gauge 46 mm deep galvanized steel, and shall be of shapes and size to suit their respective locations and installations and shall be provided with covers to suit their function and installation.

2.2 Outlet boxes shall be equipped with fixtures or straps where required. All outlet boxes shall be provided with brass ground terminals.

2.3 All junction boxes/pull boxes shall have suitable covers.

2.4 Surface mounted outlet and junction boxes in the outdoor locations shall be of cast iron metal with threaded hubs.

2.5 The surface mounted indoor boxes shall be sheet steel painted purpose made for surface installation.

For internal use shall be of the grid assembly pattern with rocker operated switch units suitable for operation with inductive loads. Switches shall be either, one way, two way or intermediate as indicated in the drawings and shall be rated 20 Amps.

Switch plates shall be champagne, charcoal or satin chrome cover finish, MK make Accent type for all offices area.

Switch plates shall be Matt chrome cover finish, MK make ALBANY range for all services area, including toilets, kitchen, guard room, pump room, electric room etc. and metal clad cover finish shall be used in the factory, storage area, finished product, etc. where Electrical Metal Tube (EMT) pipes are used, as shown and described on drawings.

For internal surface installation switches shall be provided with matching steel box and shall be with metal clad finish.

External outdoor switches shall be covered with weather proof flap. EGA tube make.

Pull cord switches shall be of white molded plastic suitable for surface mounted and shall be supplied with matching patterns. These shall be manufactured by MK Co. Ltd. (England) or approved equivalent.

For flush indoor installation shall be 13 A, 3 pin switched socket outlet with indicator and manufactured to British Standard. Finishing to be Matt chrome cover finish, MK make ALBANY range for all services area, including toilets, kitchen, guard room, pump room, electric room etc. and metal clad cover finish shall be used in the factory, storage, finished product, etc. where Electrical Metal Tube (EMT) pipes are used, as shown and described on drawings.

Telephone outlets shall be suitable for surface or flush installation with American standard socket outlet. The finish of the switch plates shall be Matt chrome cover finish, MK make ALBANY range for all services area, including toilets, kitchen, guard room, pump room, electric room etc. and metal clad cover finish shall be used in the factory, storage area, finished product, etc. where Electrical Metal Tube (EMT) pipes are used, as shown and described on drawings.

Spur units shall be 20A or 45A, DP switch type with pilot lamp. For flush installation shall be switched and fitted with neon indicator and cord outlet on the front plate. Finish to be as specified elsewhere.

The DP switch outlet shall be suitable for flush or surface type of installation. The capacity as indicated on the drawings. The finish shall be Matt chrome cover finish, Mk make ALBANY range for all services area, including toilets, kitchen, guard room, pump room, electric room etc. and metal clad cover finish shall be used in the factory, storage area, finished products, etc. where Electrical metal Tube (EMT) pipes are used, as shown and described on drawings.

Connector outlets shall comprise flush overlapping plates of white molded plastic suitable for attachment to standard recessed steel boxes. These shall be fitted in three terminals a clamping device for outgoing flexible cable.

The wiring installation shall be in conformity with IEE regulation and/or approved equivalent standard.

Unless otherwise specified all wiring shall be in rigid PVC conduit embedded in wall, or ceiling or concealed in the false ceiling.

The size of conduits shall be selected in accordance with the IEE regulations and the minimum size of the conduit shall be 20 mm dia unless otherwise indicated or approved.

Factory made conduit bends shall be used where required. Conduits shall be kept at minimum of 100 mm from the pipes of other non-electrical services.

Separate conduits and runways shall be used for:

1. Lighting system.

2. Power outlets.

3. Emergency light.

4. Telephone system.

5. Fire alarm system.

6. Sound / public address system.

7. Television system.

8. Computer system.

Wiring for short extensions to outlets in hung ceiling or to equipment, motors etc. shall be installed in flexible conduits. Otherwise rigid conduits shall be used.

Conduits run on surfaces shall be supported on galvanized / PVC saddles which in turn are properly screwed to the wall or ceiling. Saddles shall be at intervals of not more than 60 cm. Fixing screws shall be with round cheese head or and rustproof materials. Exposed conduits shall be neatly run parallel or at right angles to the wall of the building. Pull boxes must be provided at the right angles and at a distance of not exceeding 20 meter length.

Conduits embedded into the walls shall be fixed by means of staples at not more than 60 cm intervals. Chase in the wall shall be neatly made and refilled after laying the conduit and brought to the finish of the wall.

Conduits buried in concrete structure shall be put in position and securely fastened to the reinforcement and got approved by the consultant before the concrete is poured. Proper care shall be taken to ensure that the conduits and boxes are neither dislocated nor choked at the time of pouring the concrete.

Suitable fish wires shall be drawn in all conduits before they are embedded.

Inspection boxes shall be provided for periodical inspection to facilitate draw and removal of cables. Such inspection boxes shall be flush with the wall in the case of recessed conduits.

Inspection boxes shall be spaced at not more than 12 meters apart or two 90 degree solid bends or equal.

Use of PVC conduits in places where ambient temperature is 60 degree c or above is prohibited. PVC conduits shall not be used in outdoor system. Conduits shall be free from sharp edges and burrs and grease or oil shall not be used for the purpose of pulling the wire. The entire system of conduits must be completely installed and rendered electrically continuous before the conductors are pulled in.

All PVC conduits shall be jointed with plain PVC couples using approved PVC jointing materials as recommended by the manufacturer. All joints shall be water tight. Junction between conduit and adaptable boxes, back outlet boxes, switch outlet boxes and the like must be provided with entry spouts and smooth PVC bushes.

A ground wire of not less than 2.5 sq. mm copper shall be run inside each conduit. The wire shall be insulated and color coded.

All final branch circuits for lighting and appliances, shall be single conductor cables run inside conduits.

Branch circuit conductor sizes shall be as shown in the schedule of quantities and drawing and conforming the requirements of the IEE regulations.

Home runs indicated in the drawings for the final branch circuits shall be kept in a separate conduit upto the panel board via switches wherever called for. No other wiring shall be bunched in the same conduit.

Flexible cords for connection to appliances, fans and pendants shall be 250/440V grade, three or four cores, with tinned stranded copper wires, insulated, twisted and sheathed with strengthening cord. Color of sheath shall be subject to the architect approval.

For each lot of wires the contractor shall supply a certificate issued by the manufacturer stating its origin, date of manufacture, constitution and standard to which it complies and the test certificates.

Looping system of wiring shall be used. Wires shall not be jointed. Where joints are unavoidable, these shall be made through approved mechanical connector.

Control switches shall be connected in the phase conductors only and shall be ON when knob is down. Switches shall be fixed in galvanized steel boxes. Chromium plated screws shall be used.

220 V (230 V) power supply wiring shall be distinctly separate form any other different voltage system and lighting wiring.

Though the circuit wiring is indicated on the drawing, contractor shall check and be responsible for the connection.

Each circuit phase wire from the distribution boards should be followed with a separate neutral wire of the same size as the circuit wire.

Each light point and outlet shall be identified with their circuit number and panel board number with a label pasted on them.

The entire installation shall be tested in accordance with IEE regulations for:

1. Insulation resistance.

2. Earth continuity.

3. Polarity of single pole switches.

A test certificate shall be submitted in standard performa as directed by the Supervising engineer.

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Electricveda.com | Wiring Materials And Installation Methods in ...