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You will thank yourself a million times over for choosing tankless water heating. Be aware that there will be a slight delay for the hot water to arrive at your fixtures and that the money saved in standby loss is offset by the higher cost of equipment, gas pipe, flue pipe and materials.

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CAUTION: Tankless water heaters generally require larger diameter gas supply lines, higher voltage power supply (if contemplating electric on-demand), dedicated - special stainless steel flue (known as Category II, III or IV) or larger diameter exhaust system. Please take these things into consideration before you decide to DIY.

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It is highly recommended that you use special union connector sets for the water supply which employ bypass capability. This will allow for simple, easy de-liming maintenance process in the future.

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Turn off main incoming water line to house.

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Disconnect supply line from old water heater. You will probably have some water left in the line even though your main has been shut off. Place a bucket underneath water bib to catch any spills.

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Disconnect heat source from old water heater as follows: for gas, (propane) make sure the supply valve is closed (this is usually determined by the direction of the handle to the valve sitting either in the same direction as the line "open", opposite the direction of the line "closed"). For and electric water heater, simply unplug the appliance from the wall outlet.

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Once you have completely disconnected the old water heater you must remove it from it's current parking space and make sure to dispose of it according to the laws in the area you live in.

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Remove your new tankless water heater from the carton and place all hardware and instructional material close at hand.

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Determine the location best suited for this appliance and make sure you have allowed for the proper clearances around it to comply with all state and local building codes.

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Mount tankless heater on wall according to manufacturers instructions, making sure that you have appropriately supported its weight.

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Now you're ready to hook up all the connections.

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If you have gas, install ventilation ducting. Typically tankless water heaters requires larger flue or special stainless steel flue.

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Begin with the supply line (water line).

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Next should be the heat source. If your water heater uses electricity, plug it in to the wall.* If your water heater is gas, you will need to hook up a gas supply line from the stub at the wall to the new water heater. Open the valve so that the handle is in the same direction as the line.

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Following manufacturers directions, light the pilot on the gas water heater.

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Now go to your favorite shower location and enjoy an endless stream of hot water. All that work was well worth it!

Do I need to mount a gas tankless heater upright, or can it be laid on its back?

wikiHow Contributor

As with any gas appliance, heat rises so the unit needs to be mounted upright and leveled.

After I install this, will I have hot water immediately?

wikiHow Contributor

Once installed the unit will provide hot water in accordance with its rated "rise time." You will probably notice some lag between opening a hot water tap and the water from the tap being hot, similar to having a tank-style heater. The hot water still needs to get from the unit to the tap.

If my tankless water heater is gas and I have a 1/2 inch gas line to the unit, will it work for a year and then have a problem?

wikiHow Contributor

It depends on what kind it is. If it is an under-$200 tank then yes, but if it is over that price then no, it will be over 2 and 1/2 years until you should start noticing any problems.

What do I do if I have a recirculating pump?

wikiHow Contributor

Tankless hot water heaters are "on demand," and cannot be used for recirculating systems.

How can I insert batteries in the geyser?

wikiHow Contributor

If you were to put batteries inside the geyser, they would most likely burn out because it would be so warm. Plug it into a wall or somewhere instead.

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How to Install a Tankless Hot Water Heater: 15 Steps

Home Plumbing Water Heater How to Install a Hot Water Heater

When your water heater begins to leak, you have to install a new one fast.

We're replacing a natural gas water heater in our demonstration. The steps for replacing a propane water heater are exactly the same, and those for an electric water heater are similar.

In any case, play it safe. Call your local department of inspections and ask if you need a permit. And make sure a plumbing or electrical inspector checks your work.

Your water heater is dead when the tank leaks. The telltale sign that your water heater needs replacing is a slow drip underneath, usually showing up as a trail of rusty water. This means that the steel tank has rusted through and can't be fixed. Other symptoms, such as insufficient or no hot water, usually signal other problems that you can fix.

If you spot a drip, plan to replace the water heater right away. Don't wait until the leak gets bad. Most residential water heaters cost $150 to $400 for either gas or electric, plus $200 to $450 if you have a plumber install it. More expensive gas water heaters with special venting systems also are available. But they're more difficult to install, and we won't deal with them here.

New water heaters come with installation instructions and lots of warnings to make sure you handle the gas, electrical and other connections safely. In this article, we'll supplement those basics with techniques and real world advice from several professional plumbers.

But take heed: You'll be working with natural gas, propane or electricity, all of which are hazardous. If you don't feel confident, call in a pro to take care of the tough parts. And have your work inspected when it's done.

Plumbing codes vary by region. Describe your planned installation to your local plumbing inspector, including the types of materials you intend to use for your new connections. Better to get guidance first so you don't have to change things later!

To print out this image, see the Additional Info at the end of this article.

Many homes have galvanized steel or plastic (CPVC) water supply pipes. Galvanized steel pipes are difficult to replace. We recommend that you remove the pipes back to the nearest tee, screw on a plastic-lined galvanized nipple and complete the connections with copper as shown in our photo series.

Because of potential heat buildup, keep plastic pipe at least 6 in. away from the vent and tank. Make a transition from plastic to copper with a special coupling that's available wherever CPVC is sold.

Flexible copper connectors are easier to install than solid copper, especially when the existing pipes and the tank inlets don't line up. But not all local codes allow them. If yours does, take special care not to pinch or kink them. You could get a leak.

Turn off the gas to the water heater by turning the nearby shutoff valve a quarter turn. When off, the handle should be at a right angle to the pipe. Shut off the main water supply as well and drain the lines by opening a faucet on the lowest floor.

Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and drain the water left in the tank. Caution: The water will be scalding hot! Disconnect the gas line at the nearby union with a pair of wrenches and unscrew the pipe from the gas control valve with a pipe wrench.

Unscrew the vent pipe from the vent hood and move it to the side. Then cut the hot and cold water lines with a tube cutter. (Unscrew unions for galvanized pipe or the nuts on flexible connectors if you have them.) Slide the old water heater out of the way.

Wrap the threads of the new temperature and pressure relief valve with Teflon tape (three turns). Screw it tightly into the tank with a pipe wrench. Attach a copper discharge pipe (see Fig. A for routing details).

Solder new copper adapters to 6-in. lengths of 3/4-in. copper and screw the assemblies into the hot water outlet and cold water inlet ports in the top of the tank. Add short, plastic lined nipples to shield against galvanic corrosion, especially if you have hard water or if they're required by local codes.

Slide the new water heater into place, recut or extend the old tubing to meet the new, and solder the tubing together using copper slip couplings. If the tubing doesn't line up, offset the lines as needed with pairs of 45-degree elbows.

Reconnect the vent. Shove it tightly over the draft hood and anchor it with three 3/8-in. No. 6 sheet metal screws. Predrill the holes. The vent should rise at least 12 in. vertically before turning at the first elbow.

Reconnect the gas line. Coat the threaded ends with pipe joint compound and screw the first nipple into the gas valve. Use two pipe wrenches to avoid stressing the valve. Reassemble the remaining nipples, finishing up with the union (Photo 2). Then follow these four steps to fill the tank: (1) Close the drain valve; (2) turn the water back on at the main shutoff and open the cold water valve to the water heater (leave it open); (3) turn on a nearby hot water faucet until water comes out; and (4) inspect all the joints and fittings for water leaks.

Most water heaters rely on a natural draft to draw combustion fumes up the flue. If the draft doesn't work, those fumes, possibly containing deadly carbon monoxide, will spill out into your home. After completing your installation, check the draft.

Close all exterior doors and windows and turn on your kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans. Then open a nearby hot water faucet until you hear the gas burner in the water heater ignite. After a minute, move a smoking match around the edge of the draft hood (Photo 7) on top of the heater. The smoke should be drawn up the vent pipe. If the smoke doesn't draw, the fumes from the burner aren't venting. Turn off the gas to the water heater and call a licensed plumber to correct the problem.

Turn on the gas and check connections for leaks by brushing a 50-50 mixture of dishwashing liquid and water over the joints. If the mixture bubbles, you have a leak. Tighten or reconnect joints that leak. Wipe the joints dry when finished. Call the plumbing inspector to check over your work.

Follow the how-to advice that accompanies the photos to make sure the connections are tight.

Light the pilot light according to the manufacturer's directions. (For electric water heaters, turn the power on at the main panel after the electrical inspector checks your work.) Finally, set the temperature to 120 degrees F., following the installation instructions.

Light the pilot light in the new water heater and adjust the temperature setting.

First turn off the power to the water heater at your main electrical panel. Then follow the same draining procedures as for a gas water heater.

When the water heater is drained, disconnect the electrical wires from the screw terminals under the access panel, which is usually located near the top. (If you don't have electrical experience, hire an electrician to handle all the electrical wiring.)

Follow the manufacturer's instructions for wiring the new water heater. If the new water heater is shorter and the old wires won't reach, surface-mount a 4-in. x 4-in. x 1-1/2 in. metal electrical box on the wall or ceiling nearby, run the old wires to the box, and then run a new section of armored cable or electrical conduit to the water heater. Check the instructions and make sure the rating of the old fuse or circuit breaker is high enough to handle the new water heater. In addition, the circuit should have a shutoff switch within sight of the water heater.

Call your local electrical inspector before you begin the job. You'll probably need a permit. Then, when you're finished, have the electrical inspector check your work.

CAUTION: Aluminum wiring requires special handling. If you have aluminum wiring, call in a licensed pro who's certified to work with it. This wiring is dull gray, not the dull orange that's characteristic of copper.

Jeff Gorton, an editor at The Family Handyman, will show you how to remove and dispose of a water heater in our video tutorial. He will also show you the easy way to carry a water heater out of your home, even if you are working alone.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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How to Install a Hot Water Heater - The Family Handyman

RON HAZELTON:You know, folks are always saying to me, Ron, everything always goes so smoothly on the show, it's never like that when I take on a home improvement project. Well, I can tell you, as a homeowner and a do it yourself guy, I'm not immune from the kind of surprises that are a part of just about any home improvement project.

As an example, I want to tell you about something that happened to me the other day. It all began when I came into the kitchen and turned on this faucet. Instead of a nice, smooth, bubbly stream of water, I got a lot of spitting and sputtering. I've seen this before. It almost always means debris is clogging the faucet aerator. So I unscrewed the device, disassembled it and sure enough, I found small white bits of material which I carefully picked out.

Then I washed the aerator thoroughly and replaced it. But a few days later, the sputtering was back. Then I went to take a shower up here in the master bathroom, but there was practically nothing coming out. So I unscrewed the shower head, took a look inside and found more of that same debris that had clogged my kitchen faucet.

Then my washing machine stopped working. It wasn't getting any water. I unscrewed the hose and, sure enough, you guessed it. Well, it seemed like it was time for a little research. I got on my computer and did some poking around. So my online research has led me to believe that the culprit in all this might be right there, in the form of something called sediment.

Now sediment can collect in a water heater from dirt, sand or minerals that are suspended in the water supply. Over time, these deposits can build up quite an accumulation on the bottom of the tank, cutting down on burner efficiency.

Incoming water can stir up the sediment and send it to faucets, aerators, shower heads, dishwashers, clothes washing machines, and any other water-using appliance in the house.

The online advice I'd gotten said I should flush my water heater and instructed me to turn my gas valve to the pilot position, connect a hose to the spigot at the bottom of my water heater, shut off the incoming cold water, open a hot water faucet somewhere in the house, and then twist open the spigot on the water heater.

Sure enough, out came the water, and with it, quite a bit of what looked like sand and more of those curious white chips that I'd found clogging up my plumbing fixtures. It looked almost like fragments of plastic. I was baffled. So it was back online for some more research.

To my surprise and amazement, I discovered that back in the mid '90s, some water heater manufacturers had unknowingly installed defective plastic tubes called dip tubes in thousands of water heaters. Over time, these tubes could disintegrate. It appeared that my unit was one of those affected. So I decided to take out my dip tube, inspect it and replace it if necessary.

Well, this is not good news. This is the nipple that I took out of the top of the water heater. It's supposed to have a plastic tube attached to it like this, called a dip tube. Well, in my case, that tube has actually broken off and dropped into the tank. Now if you could see inside the tank, you'd find the dip tube lying there on the bottom. And if you look more closely, you'd see those tiny fragments of plastic scattered about just waiting to be carried through my pipes and into my plumbing fixtures.

I can't think of any way I'm gonna get that out of there and as long as it's inside, it's gonna continue to deteriorate and contaminate my plumbing system. So I think I'm gonna have to replace the water heater.

Well, what started out as a sputtery water faucet has, so far, led to the need for a new water heater. Bernard at my local home improvement center listens to my story and then directs me to something called a tankless water heater.

So you're saying that this water heater can produce as much water as these, it's so much smaller.

Bernard explains that a conventional water heater works by keeping a tank full of water continually hot and ready for use. Tankless versions, on the other hand, only heat water on demand. When hot water is turned on anywhere in the house, the unit starts and water is brought up to temperature instantaneously as it continuously flows through the internal heat exchanger.

Well, I'm sold. So I load my tankless water heater onto a cart and into my truck. Now, being the do-it-yourself type, I entertained thoughts of installing it myself and perhaps I could have, but in the end, I opt for professional help.

The first thing plumber Mike Iovanna does is install a T and valve in my existing gas line. Then he and his partner Jim Morrissette begin running the new supply line. This is called corrugated stainless steel tubing and in many communities, including mine, it can be used in place of conventional black iron for gas lines.

Now Mike and Jim move on to the water lines. First they tie in the new lines to the existing ones, then get ready to run the copper pipes the last few feet to the new water heater. These brackets, called bell hangers, will hold the pipes securely in place and prevent them from coming into contact with the walls.

This will make it possible to apply insulation later and prevent chafing damage to the pipe itself. Before copper can be soldered, the pipes and connectors have to be cleaned to remove oxidation. Then soldering flux is applied. This paste enables the solder to flow more evenly and prevents the copper from oxidizing again when it's heated. Next, the pipe and connectors are slipped together. The copper is then heated with a torch. When it reaches the correct temperature, the tip of the solder is touched to the metal.

It melts instantly and is drawn into the joint by capillary action. Now, notice how Mike has bent the solder into an L-shape, so he can easily reach all the way around the pipe. When we come back, we'll put in the new tankless water heater and then enter the world of endless hot water.[MUSIC]

I built this platform from two-by-fours and plywood so that I can mount the heater about four inches out from the wall. This will allow the vent to clear the floor joists as it passes to the outside.

After drilling holes using a carbide tipped bit, I drive in these tapcon screws. They're masonry anchors that actually cut threads into concrete. Once I've secured the platform cover in place, a single screw will allow me to hang the water heater on the front.

Then I can drive in additional screws which secure the mounting brackets. Now the plumbers can come back to make the final hookups. First, Mike connects the gas shutoff valve and sediment trap -- that's the short section of pipe running downward, then attaches the corrugated stainless steel supply line.

Jim now makes the last few connections between the water shutoff valves and the heater -- then does a final bit of soldering. With the gas turned on and the air bled out of the line, a sniffer is used to make certain there are no leaks.

This is heat resistant silicone sealant that I'm applying to the heater vent. Next, I slip on a connector -- and secure it to the vent with a hose clamp. Then I put on the first section of stainless steel vent pipe, pull the retaining ring down into place, and bend over the tabs that lock the ring in position.

Next, I set a 90 degree elbow in place. Then using a long shaft quarter-inch bit, bore through the rim joist to the outside at a point that will be the center of the vent hole. Outside, I use the metal wall thimble as a template, tracing the outline onto the shingles.

Using a spade bit, I bore a one-inch hold near the edge of what will be the opening. Then I grab a reciprocating saw, insert the blade into the hole, and begin cutting.[SAWING SOUNDS]Ready. Now I need to remove a few shingles around the edge of the opening so that the flange on the wall thimble can set directly against the plywood sheathing underneath. The purpose of the thimble is to prevent the vent pipe from having any direct contact with wood as it passes through the wall.

Silicone caulk, applied to the outer flange, will insure a water tight seal on the outside. Next, I drill pilot holes through the stainless steel flange -- then drive in screws that pull it into tight contact with the sheathing. Finally, I seal the screw heads and the building paper with more silicone.

From the basement side, I slip the interior flange into place, attach another straight section -- slide the retaining ring into position, and bend over the tabs to lock it all together. Now, from the outside, I slide through a section of vent with an elbow attached and connect it to the vent inside.

Finally, I slip on one last vertical section of pipe on the outside with two 90-degree elbows on the end that form a U to prevent rain water from entering. One last connection, and the vent is finished. The final job outside is to replace the shingles I removed earlier. All that's left now is to plug in the power for the thermostat and on board microprocessor, insulate the hot water pipe coming from the heater, turn on the gas and fire it up.

Now, one of the obvious benefits of this system is that I've replaced a rather massive tank in my basement with a relatively compact unit that's up out of the way on the wall. But the real payoff is that I will now have enough hot water to wash the dishes, give the kids a bath and take a shower, all at the same time.

In addition to the main thermostat, I also have a bedroom unit that allows me to control the water temperature remotely, if I choose. So that's my story of how a simple sputtering faucet led to a discovery about sediment and defective dip tubes, which required me to replace my old water heater with new technology, which ended up providing us with unlimited hot water. Yeah, there's no question about it, home improvement can be a journey and an adventure.

Originally posted here:
How to Install a Tankless Water Heater Ron Hazelton ...

Learn how to install SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors to connect hot and cold water supply lines to a water heater.

Transcript:Welcome to SharkBite Training Videos. My name is Craig and in this video I will show you how to use and install SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors, which are used in residential and commercial applications to connect the hot and cold supply lines to the water heater.

These stainless steel braided connectors make fast work of water heater hot and cold supply line hook-up. The ability to rotate the SharkBite connector after it is pushed onto the pipe and the flexibility of the braided hose allow connections in tight spaces and without additional fittings. On gas heaters, ensure the hose remains clear of the flu.

To install the water heater connector, simply tighten the threaded end of the flex hose onto the water heater then push the other end of the flex hose onto the pipe up to the depth mark. Remember to de-burr and mark copper pipe with the SharkBite Depth & De-burr Gauge.

SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors are available in and 3/4, in various lengths. Lead-free compliant versions are also available.

SharkBite Flexible Water Heater Connectors also come with an integral SharkBite Ball Valve and couplings suitable for use on copper, CPVC and PEX.

Original post:
How to Install a Water Heater Using a SharkBite Connector

"Think of all the energy we've wasted with our water heaters constantly running," says Ryan Williams, general manager of 128 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric. "In a large home, it's not unusual for 75 gallons of hot water in a tank to be constantly working to maintain temperature; even while you're at work or away on vacation."

Williams offers the following benefits for homeowners to consider a tankless, on-demand water heater over a traditional system:

For homeowners in the Boston area who would like help in determining if the tankless water heating system is right for their home, the professionals at 128 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric are ready to assist. For more information on rebate and financing eligibility, please call 1-888-419-4233 or visit http://www.call128.com.

About 128 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric128 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric, rated A+ by the Better Business Bureau, was founded in Wakefield, Massachusetts more than 25 years ago. Since their start, 128 PHCE has expanded and grown to become Eastern Massachusetts' most trusted and consistent plumber, heating and air conditioning service company with over 800 reviews online. For more information, call 888-419-4233 or visit http://www.call128.com.

MEDIA CONTACT: Heather RipleyRipley PR865-977-1973hripley@ripleypr.com

View original content with multimedia:http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/five-benefits-of-installing-a-tankless-water-heater-in-a-boston-home-300510822.html

SOURCE 128 Plumbing, Heating, Cooling & Electric

http://www.call128.com

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Five Benefits of Installing a Tankless Water Heater in a Boston Home - PR Newswire (press release)

Home Plumbing Water Heater How to Install a Power-Vented Water Heater

Power vents simplify a gas hot water heater installation

Power-vented water heaters work the same as ordinary water heaters, but the exhaust gases are blown out with a small fan instead of rising upwards through metal pipes.

The hot exhaust gases from a natural-draft water heater rise through an open draft diverter and out through a metal duct.

Natural gas or propane hot water heaters are generally less expensive to operate than electric heaters, but installing a standard vent in a house without an existing chimney is expensive.

Its easier to run the vent if you install a power-vented type of natural gas (or propane) water heater. This type of venting system is different from what you see on most gas water heaters. Most have a natural-draft type of vent, where the hot waste gases rise through an open draft diverter and into metal pipes,which eventually lead to the outdoors. Running one of these vents is complicated and may be expensive. Its best left to a professional.

In contrast, a power-vented type relies on a fan to blow the exhaust gases out. Since this method doesnt rely on the natural buoyancy of hot air, the vent pipes dont have to go upward. They can go out horizontally, which usually makes them much easier to install. Further, the fan dilutes the exhaust with cooler air so you can run the vents with easy-to-assemble PVC pipe. Power venting is an especially good solution for more energy efficient, tightly built homes, where a good natural draft is difficult to establish.

However, you should be aware of several drawbacks:

If you decide to install one yourself, read the instructions carefully and make sure to follow all venting procedures. And call your local building department and ask if you need a plumbing permit to do the work.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Continued here:
How to Install a Power-Vented Water Heater | Family Handyman

Curtis Watson vividly remembers the day he literally swam through sewage underneath a modular home. Thats the kind of toughness a former member of the 82nd Airborne Division and a plumber of 34 years shows when faced with a dirty job.

The hillside homes sewer had separated because a pipe shifted and completely came apart, leaking raw sewage. Watson put on a contractors rain suit which he threw away when the job was done and fixed the sewer as quickly as possible.

Thats all in a days work for Patriot Plumbing, the Piedmont-based business Watson owns. He prides himself on employing a team of plumbers who tackle the dirtiest, toughest jobs in the region.

The companys general manager, Roger Olson, describes Watson as an intense personality and a good guy to have on your side. Ancient-plumbing conundrums, broken toilets and clogged drains dont intimidate Watson. In fact, they intrigue him.

We do the things nobody thinks can be done or wants to do. It doesnt matter how nasty or complicated we tackle it, Watson said. We find a way to get it done.

Patriot Plumbing services residential and commercial plumbing throughout the Black Hills. The business specializes in updating plumbing when homeowners or business owners remodel or need repairs. Watson and his team also install plumbing in new-construction homes and businesses, and they install water purification systems, standard and tankless water heaters and well systems.

Patriot Plumbings team includes four master plumbers three of whom are veterans and four apprentices who go out on jobs with the master plumbers to learn the trade.

Though Watson will work on custom homes by request, he prefers the complexity of dirty jobs over straightforward tasks such as installing brand-new plumbing.

I do historical remodels, and making something new out of something old is very challenging. It can be dirty and messy and complicated and mean. There can be safety issues, especially on jobs that require working on unstable earth, Watson said.

One of his current jobs is an 1893 house in Deadwood thats being remodeled. Taking something very, very old and making it modern and new you have to step back and figure out how to put in what (the homeowners) want with what you have, Watson said.

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Watson and his crew often are called to repair bad plumbing in newer houses, as well.

Were finding a lot of that. The contractors that build them do an inadequate job. I come into customers homes and make it right, Watson said. We do a lot of bathroom remodels, kitchen remodels, burst pipes, leaks. We replace a lot of toilets because these newer ones dont work very well. We have toilets we (install). They arent cheap, but they work.

For the dirtiest of dirty jobs, Patriot Plumbing has a truck called the rescue unit. Its for getting to places most vans cant go, and its equipped for almost any plumbing problem we come across, Watson said.

Watson sets high standards for his team of plumbers and encourages them to follow his mantra.

Being a plumber is not just what I do, its who I am, Watson said.

Read the original post:
No job too nasty for master plumbers - Rapid City Journal

Somebody ratted Patrick Kelly out to the Philadelphia Gas Works, which dispatched a revenue-protection team to his Fox Chase home in 2015 to inspect his incoming gas line.

Investigators for PGW discovered a flexible metal hose attached to the houses service line, bypassing the utilitys meter. The illegal line supplied free fuel to two furnaces, a hot water heater, a gas range, a gas dryer, and a swimming pool heater.

PGW cut off service to thehouse in the 700 block of Strahle Street and said the customer owed $21,000 for unauthorized gas used from 2003 through 2015, on top of the $7,800 Kelly was actually billed.

A heating and air-conditioning contractor, Kelly denied knowledge of the bypass and complained to the Pennsylvania Public Utility Commission.

On Thursday, an unsympathetic PUC voted, 3-1, to uphold a recommended decision that Kelly pay $18,378.72, an amount adjusted down to reflect a change in the estimated date when one of his gas appliances went into service.

Commissioner David W. Sweet cast the only dissenting vote, but notin Kellys favor. Sweet argued that a deadline had passed to legally adjust the amount owed, and that Kelly should actually pay $21,000, plus reconnection fees.

I see no reason for this commission to reach beyond our lawful authority in order to give partial relief tothisparticular complainant, he said.

The panel also rejected Kellys request that PGW give him a payment agreement.

Each year, the PUC deals with thousands of utility customers complaints, a fraction of which proceed through a formal hearing and go to the full commission. But few customers caught with an illegal bypass go public and seek relief from the agency.

Theft of natural gas is a dangerous practice that puts peoples lives at risk and forces honest ratepayers to cover the fuel cost, PGW spokesman Barry OSullivan said Friday. The city-owned utility was satisfied with the PUCs decision, he added.

Kelly did not respond to email and phone messages left with his answering service and his lawyer.

He converted his residence to propane and electric appliances after PGW shut off his service in October 2015 and did not dispute that PGW found an illegal tap on his property. But in testimony before a PUC administrative law judge, Kelly denied knowing anything about the bypass.

Neither PGW nor the PUC attempted to determine who installed the bypass, since Kelly was responsible for it because it was on his property. People can draw their own conclusions, OSullivan said.

Andrew M. Calvelli, the administrative law judge, dryly noted in his recommended decision that Kelly has owned a heating and air-conditioning business since 1993. Mr. Kelly installs a lot of air conditioners, heaters, walk-in boxes and refrigeration equipment as part of his business, thejudge wrote.

According to public records, Kelly bought the house in 2003 for $225,000. It had a gas dryer, a gas water heater, and a gas range.

Kelly installed a 100,000 BTU gas heater in 2003 and added a 50,000 BTU heater in 2009.In April 2014, he had a pool installed at the address, along with a 300,000 BTU gas heater to heat the pool.

The size and installation dates of the appliances were pertinent when PGW went about computing how much unbilled gas was consumed. For instance, PGW said it estimated that the pool was open from May to September, which istypical for a residential outdoor pool in Philadelphia, and was heated to 78 to 80 degrees.

Kelly disputedPGWs methodology, testifying that he let the weather heat his pool, and that he did not maintain the temperature between 78 and 80 degrees as suggested.

I do not find such testimony to be credible, Calvelli wrote in his recommended decision.

The administrative law judge did adjust down the estimated total, which CommissionerJohn F. Coleman Jr. said he found acceptable, despite Sweets dissent.

While I share the displeasure with my colleagues of the conduct of this customer, I believe the evidentiary record requires that we affirm the ALJs decision, Coleman said.

Published: September 1, 2017 5:16 PM EDT

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A PGW customer's plea gets no sympathy from the PUC - Philly.com

We previously reported the Washington Supreme Courts decision in Xia, et al. v. ProBuilders Specialty Insurance Company, et al., 188 Wn.2d 171, 393 P.3d 748 (2017), in which the Court applied the efficient proximate cause rule to a third-party liability policy to find a duty to defend.

To recap, Washington law requires insurers to assess and investigate coverage under first-party insurance policies by applying the efficient proximate cause analysis. Until Xia, the efficient proximate cause rule has only been applied to first party insurance policies in Washington. But the Washington Supreme Courts decision in Xia changed that by holding that an insurer must consider the efficient proximate cause rule in determining its duty to defend under a CGL policy.

The issue in Xia was whether the pollution exclusion applied to relieve ProBuilders of its duty to defend a claim against the insured alleging that carbon monoxide was released into the claimants house through a defectively installed vent. ProBuilders denied coverage to the insured contractor, in part, under the pollution exclusion. The Washington Supreme Court held that while ProBuilders did not err in determining that the plain language of its pollution exclusion applied to the release of carbon monoxide into Xias home, under the eight corners rule of reviewing the complaint and the insurance policy, ProBuilders should have noted that a potential issue of efficient proximate cause existed, as Xia alleged negligence in her original complaint, i.e. failure to properly install venting for the hot water heater and failure to properly discover the disconnected venting.

Ultimately, the Court concluded that the efficient proximate cause of the claimants loss was a covered peril the negligent installation of a hot water heater. Even though ProBuilders correctly applied the language of its pollution exclusion to the release of carbon monoxide into the house, the Court ruled that ProBuilders breached its duty to defend as it failed to consider an alleged covered occurrence that was the efficient proximate cause of the loss. The Court granted judgment as a matter of law to the claimant with regard to her breach of contract and bad faith claims.

Soon after the Washington Supreme Courts decision, ProBuilders filed a motion asking the Court to reconsider its decision. However, on August 17, 2017, the Washington Supreme Court denied the motion, leaving in place the holding that insurers must take the efficient proximate cause rule when analyzing coverage under third-party policies.

As discussed in our earlier post, the efficient proximate cause rule applies when two or more perils combine in sequence to cause a loss and a covered peril is the predominant or efficient cause of the loss. Vision One, LLC v. Philadelphia Indemnity Insurance Co., 174 Wn.2d 501, 276 P.3d 300 (2012). If the initial event, the efficient proximate cause, is a covered peril, then there is coverage under the policy regardless of whether subsequent events within the chain, which may be causes-in-fact of the loss, are excluded by the policy. Key Tronic Corp., Inc. v. Aetna (CIGNA) Fire Underwriters Insurance Co., 124 Wn.2d 618, 881 P.2d 210 (1994).

Insurers must be extremely cautious when assessing the duty to defend and an exclusion that could potentially preclude coverage. Under Xia, liability insurers must examine the underlying complaint very carefully to determine whether there could potentially be multiple causes of a loss, and if so, which cause is the initiating cause. If the initiating cause is potentially a covered event, then there may be coverage and the insurer must provide a defense under reservation of rights in order to minimize bad faith exposure.

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Washington Supreme Court Denies Reconsideration of Its Decision to Apply the Efficient Proximate Cause Rule to a ... - Lexology (registration)

Londiwe Buthelezi

Between 40 percent and 70 percent of solar water heater installations were estimated to be unsatisfactory to customers, the Sustainable Energy Society of Southern Africa ombudsman said yesterday.

The ombudsman, Carel Ballack, said his office received about 15 complaints a month. This number might seem fairly low, but Ballack said this was because the ombuds office was not known to customers.

He said installation problems were not alarming, but customer dissatisfaction also arose from service received after they had installed their solar water heater systems.

In winter there were a lot of complaints about systems freezing, while in summer there were overheating issues.

Eskom has also been telling households that have installed solar water heaters with mechanical dump valves to service their systems twice a year so that these would not develop frost or freeze.

The utility even advised that the use of mechanical dump valves in solar geyser installations was now prohibited by the SA Bureau of Standards.

While faulty installations have frustrated a number of households, Eskom said the only recourse for customers was to approach the ombudsman or revert to the Consumer Protection Act because the customers installation agreement was with the installation company, not Eskom.

Eskoms spokesman for the solar water heater rebate programme, Andrew Etzinger, said in most cases installations were done correctly but acknowledged that the utility had received a number of complaints about faulty workmanship.

He said in such cases, Eskom retained a portion of the payment claimed by suppliers until the faults were rectified. This had caused payment disputes with some suppliers.

In the majority of cases the disputes relate to the quality of workmanship where a supplier believes the quality is adequate and Eskom believes otherwise. Eskom deploys auditors to sites who take photographic evidence to substantiate concerns, Etzinger said.

Last week Frost & Sullivan released findings of its recent study, which showed that the uptake of solar geysers by consumers had been disappointing.

Yesterday, Frost & Sullivan energy and power research analyst Muneera Salie said the issue of faulty installations emerged very strongly when the firm conducted the study. The product is often good quality but the system does not work properly and people feel frustrated.

Customers did not want the product any longer as they thought the solar heater was faulty, but the problem was the installation, she said.

She said the study also found that some installers posed as if they were contracted by Eskom and when people tried to call them when problems arose after the installation, the companies had vanished.

Frost & Sullivans study showed that 40 percent of new suppliers left the industry every year because of disappointing demand and that the solar water heater market generated revenue of only about R810 million last year.

Etzinger admitted that the amount that had to be paid by homeowners for solar geysers, even after the Eskom rebate, was still too high to achieve a large uptake of the high pressure systems.

Eskom offers rebates of between R3 936 and R8 964 on different sizes of high pressure geysers. Through the rebate programmes, including that of the Department of Energy, 336 391 were installed in the country by April 5.

Eskom said the installation companies registered in its rebate programme met the minimum required qualifications and skills.

But Ballack said some installers were not too concerned about the functionality of the system when installing the geysers, while others did not understand the technicalities.

Three years ago, a certain supplier flooded the market with 12 volt circulator pumps, which are not reliable and some consumers are not even aware that their systems are not functioning because of this, Ballack said.

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Solar water heater complaints flood in - Independent Online