Are you ready to replace your old, bulky, and inefficient tank-style water heater? Today, there is really no need to keep wasting money and energy with traditional water heaters. There are various smarter and more efficient solutions available and electric tankless water heaters are definitely the easiest and the most functional way to satisfy your hot water needs.

We have looked at various tankless water heaters available on the market which run on electricity, and we have chosen 5 models that really stand out. Read on to see our top picks as well as a buying guide that will help you decide on the best electric tankless water heater for your needs. For those who wants to jump straight to our winner, here are our top pick.

5 Best Electric Tankless Water Heaters Reviewed

1. EcoSmart ECO27 - Best Seller in the Market

Ecosmart ECO27 is one of the most powerful models in the EcoSmart line of water heaters. It can heat up to 6 gallons of water per minute, which is more than enough for a large household. Its even strong enough for large Jacuzzi-style hot tubs. You can really count on this heater to provide hot water when you need it, which is why its considered to be one of the best tankless water heaters on the market.

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This tankless water heater comes with a digital control panel that allows you to adjust the temperature of the water with precision. You can set the temperature to anywhere between 80 and 140 degrees F.

One of the most important features of EcoSmart Eco 27 electric tankless water heater is the self-modulating technology. This means that this water heater is completely energy-efficient. It will automatically adjust the amount of energy it draws to the amount of water you are using, so no energy is wasted. This way, you will not only use less energy, but you will also save money on your electricity bills.

Even though its very powerful, EcoSmart ECO27 is also quite compact and beautifully designed, so it will fit in seamlessly almost anywhere. Furthermore, finding replacement parts for this water heater is very easy. It also comes with a limited lifetime warranty. However, the warranty will only be valid if the heater is installed by a licensed plumber and electrician.

2. SioGreen IR260 POU - Best Value for Money

The SioGreen IR260 tankless hot water heater is perfect for a cabin or a small household where you need hot water supply for only one or two people. It is very compact and easy to install, so it will easily fit into any cabinet, bathroom, or kitchen, even if you have very limited space. The dimensions of the unit are 13.5 x 8.5 x 3 inches which makes this SioGreen model one of the smallest models available.

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The Far-infrared technology is what makes this water heater different from most other tankless water heater models on the market. The heating tubes on this heater dont contain any metallic substances. Instead, they are made of Quartz. SioGreen uses these tubes in combination with carbon coating heating elements that create far infrared energy that heats the water inside the tubes. With non-metallic heating tubes, there is no risk of corrosion and the chances of limescale deposits forming are minimal. This makes SioGreen IR26 perfect for areas with hard water.

The IR260 Point of Use model from SioGreen lets you adjust how much power it uses manually. There are four settings, ranging from 10 to 30 amps. It also comes with a water flow regulator which lets you adjust the temperature to the perfect level. Overall, its the perfect unit to use for a single water source.

3. Rheem RTEX-18 - A Simple and Reliable Water Heater

Rheem is one of the most well-known tankless water heater brands. They are known for making functional and durable products. The RTEX-18 is a compact but powerful unit with simple, rugged design. It will provide up to 7 gallons of hot water per minute, which is enough for small to medium-sized households.

This water heater comes with a LED display that tells you the exact temperature of the water coming out. You can adjust the temperature in one-degree increments. The temperature range is from 80 to 140F.

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The heating elements on Rheem RTEX series models are made of copper and brass and they are designed in a way that makes them easy to service and replace. The Rheem RTEX-18 tankless water heater comes with two high-quality immersion heating elements. Furthermore, its a self-modulating water heater which means its able to adjust the power supply to the demand for hot water.

4. Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 Plus - Top Notch Quality

Stiebel Eltron is a German company with a lot of experience in making tankless water heaters. They have been in the business for more than 90 years, so its no surprise they make high-quality and durable products.

Their Tempra series has been carefully designed to provide the best possible performance. All of the water heaters in this series are very functional and feature high-quality electronics. They also come with a hinged cover, which is quite a simple addition, but also very useful, since it allows for easy access.

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Stiebel Eltron has given a lot of attention to details when making the Tempra Plus. What really makes this unit stand out is the option to control the water flow with precision. This results in better and more accurate temperature control, so you will never run out of hot water.

The Tempra Plus tankless electric water heater from Stiebel Eltron is a very compact unit. Its dimensions are 14.5 x 16.625 x 4.625 inches, which means it easily fits just about anywhere. Despite its small size, this water heater is also very powerful and energy-efficient. Thanks to the advanced features, it will provide a constant hot water output even in rough conditions.

This unit also comes with a thermometer that shows the current water temperature on a display. You can adjust the temperature digitally, with only a push of a button. Overall, this is one of the best electric tankless water heaters available on the market.

5. Bosch AE115 PowerStar - Instant Hot Water Under the Sink

Bosch is a German company with a long tradition of excellence. The company was founded in 1886 and today they make a wide range of high-quality household appliances, among other products.

Bosch AE115 PowerStar is a tankless water heater designed for indoor use. It was designed to replace a traditional water heater with a tank that holds 40 gallons and it can be used to provide hot water on-demand throughout your house.

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This tankless water heater is highly energy-efficient with a maximum output of 17.25Kw. This means it can provide up to 2.6 gallons of hot water per minute, depending on the conditions. It will provide 2.3 gallons of hot water per minute when the temperature is set to 105 degrees, which is the ideal temperature for showering. However, 2.3 GPM means that this heater will generally provide enough hot water to keep only one device running at a time. For this reason, it might not be the best solution to provide hot water throughout a household, but its the perfect model to install under the sink for instant hot water.

The AE115 PowerStar water heater is equipped with which protects the unit from overheating and a thermometer that constantly monitors the output temperature. You can control the temperature using a control knob at the bottom of the water heater. The output temperature can be adjusted from 95 to 135 degrees F.

Tankless Water Heater vs Tank Water Heater

It doesnt matter if you are environmentally conscious or you just want to save money - switching from a traditional tank-style water heater to a tankless water heater is definitely a good idea. There are a couple reasons for this. Keep reading to find out more on the benefits of tankless water heater.

Energy Efficiency

First of all, tankless water heaters provide hot water on demand, so they waste much less energy than traditional water heaters, even though tankless water heaters use more energy while they are operating.

This means that using an electric tankless water heater will reduce your water-heating bills. If your household uses less than 41 gallons of hot water per day, youll be able to reduce the costs of water heating by as much as 34 percent by switching to a tankless water heater.

However, even if your daily needs exceed 40 gallons of hot water, a tankless water heater is still the more efficient solution.

Easy Installation and Maintenance

Second, electric tankless water heaters are not hard to install and require minimal maintenance. They are also much less prone to breakdowns and therefore much safer. Tank-style water heaters store large amounts of water for extended periods of time. This inevitably causes corrosion and limescale deposits over time, especially in areas with hard water.

If you switch to a tankless water heater, you will never have to face this type of problems again. You will never have to deal with replacing a ruptured tank, which can be a real nightmare.

Even when there is a problem, its much easier to find replacement parts for electric tankless water heaters. Actually replacing the parts is also a much simpler process than with tank-style water heaters. You can click here if you are looking for gas type water heaters instead.

Space Saving

Furthermore, electric tankless water heaters can be installed almost anywhere. They take up very little space, so they can fit into any corner or cupboard. You really dont need a designated place in your house for a water heater, as is the case with tank-style water heaters that take up a lot of space. Many tankless water heaters can also be installed on outside walls with the help of an anti-freeze kit. Furthermore, propane tankless water heaters require venting, but the electric ones dont, which makes them even more versatile.

No Hassles

Finally, there is the obvious benefit of endless hot water. If you choose the right size, youll never have to worry about emptying the water heater during a bath or shower again once you go tankless.

Electric Tankless Water Heater Buying Guide

Before you start looking for a tankless water heater its important to weigh out your hot water needs. For example, If you want to be able to run two showers and a faucet at the same time, youll need a water heater with much higher capacity compared to what is needed for running one device at a time.

To determine the right size of water heater for your needs, youll need to consider how many devices you want to run at the same time. Calculate how much gallons per minute all of the devices need together, and youll have the flow rate you need from your water heater. For example, an average faucet would have a flow rate of 1.5 GPM, while a flow rate of a shower head can go up to 2.5 GPM or even higher.

If you dont know the flow rate of your home appliances, there is no need to worry. You can easily determine it yourself by measuring how much water flows out over a certain period of time. Just to give you a general idea, in areas with normal climates, 4 GPM should be enough to run a shower and a faucet at the same time. A tankless water heater with a 7 GPM flow rate will easily satisfy a very high demand for hot water, like running three showers and a faucet simultaneously.

The climate you live in is also a very important factor when choosing a tankless water heater. Youll need to calculate the temperature rise your water heater needs to provide. This will depend on the temperature of groundwater in your area. For example, if the groundwater temperature is 70 degrees F, and you want your faucet to run hot water at 120 degrees, thats a 50 degrees temperature rise. If you live in an area where the groundwater temperature is lower than 60 degrees F, you should keep in mind that your water heater will need much more power to heat up the water to the desired temperature.

All tankless water heaters function in a similar way. Incoming cold water circulates through a heating chamber where it is heated up via the heat exchangers. In electric tankless water heaters, the heat exchangers are usually made of copper. This is because copper is a material with an exceptionally high thermal conductivity. However, there are some exceptions to this rule, like the SioGreen IR260 POU which uses far-infrared technology and heat exchangers made of quartz.

All of the water heaters on our list have a display that tells you the exact temperature of the water coming out of the heating chamber. This is really a necessary feature that every decent electric tankless water heater needs to have together with a mechanism that allows you to control the temperature. The temperature ranges water heaters offer vary, so this is another thing you should consider.

Many electric tankless water heaters also have a self-modulating mechanism. This mechanism allows the heater to automatically adjust to the hot water demand and use just the right amount of power. This way, youll have a stable stream of hot water and no energy will be wasted.

Finally, dont forget to factor in the cost of installation when choosing a water heater. Its much easier to install an electric tankless water heater than a tank-type water heater or a unit that runs on propane. However, youll most likely still need professional help. In some cases, the warranty on your water heater will be voided if you install the unit yourself, so always make sure to check if this is the case.

>> Looking for a suitable tankless water heater to incorporate with your home's floor heating system? Check out this article <<

Final Verdict

Ecosmart ECO 27 Electric Tankless Water Heater

Which electric tankless water heater should you get? The answer to this question will, of course, ultimately depend on your needs and the intended use. However, if we had to single out one best electric tankless water heater on the market, it would surely be the Ecosmart ECO27. It is not the cheapest unit on our list, but this water heater is definitely worth the investment.

The EcoSmart ECO27 provides up to 6 gallons of hot water per minute, which is more than enough even for large households. Furthermore, it will provide a constant stream of warm water even if the inlet temperature is as low as 37 degrees F, which is really hard to find in electric tankless water heaters. With the sleek design and the precise temperature control, there is really no reason not to love this unit! Finally, no matter which model you choose, we hope this guide has helped you make an informed decision you wont regret.

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Best Electric Tankless Water Heater Reviews for 2018

No One Knows Water Heaters Like We DoYou Can Count on Our Specialists!

Our team has 30+ years of experience, and during this time,we have installed more than 100,000 water heaters to absolute perfection. While we are proud of these numbers, its the level of performance at which we operate and our ability to bring families and business owners the comfort and functionality they deserve in their property that really excites us. Water heaters are essential to a fully functioning structure, and their importance prompted us to specialize in their maintenance, repair, and installation.

Youll come across plenty of Jacks of all trades that will do plumbing, HVAC, and water heater services, but we caution you to be wary of service providers who may be spreading themselves a little too thin. To do what we do at the level we do it,we need 100% focus and specialized expertise. Our team is also there 365 days a week, 24/7 to follow up with any immediate repair you may need. We started Payless Water Heaters with the goal ofbeing the best in the business at making people comfortable. Call and see how weve succeeded.

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Los Angeles Water Heater Service | Tankless Water Heater ...

Overview

If you have some basic plumbing experience, you can replace a water heater yourself and save $200 to $400 in plumbers fees. Well show you how to replace a conventional natural gas water heater. The procedure is the same for a propane heater. If you choose a power vented gas model, all the water and gas connections are the same as we show, but the venting steps are different. For more, search for power-vented water heater above. Replacing an electric water heater is a little easier. All the water connections are the same and you dont have to deal with gas piping or venting. For details on situations different from the one we show here (such as electric models, plastic water lines or copper gas lines) search for replace water heater above.

If you have lots of plumbing experience, you might be able to complete this project in half a day. But we recommend you start in the morning so you have plenty of time to get the job done and not leave your family without hot water overnight. Youll need a helper to carry the old unit out and the new one in. Check with your trash hauler or recycling center to find out how to dispose of the old heater.

A new water heater will cost from $250 to $500, depending on the size, efficiency and warranty. The materials youll need for the installation depend on your situation and local codes.

Even if youve worked with plumbing and gas lines in the past, play it safe and contact your local department of inspections. Get a permit (if required), and go over your installation plans with an inspector.

Shut off the gas by turning the handle a quarter turn. In the off position, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

Disconnect the gas at the union fitting. Place the larger wrench on the nut and hold the unions collar with another wrench. Start with the wrenches a quarter turn apart.

Cut the cold water line above the old gate valve to make room for a new ball valve. Cut the hot water line at the same height.

To get started, turn off the gas at the valve near the water heater (Photo 1).

If the isolation valve above your water heater is a gate valve (Photo 3), we recommend that you replace it with a ball valve (Photo 4). Be sure to choose a fullport valve. Gate valves often leak or wont close tightly. To replace the valve, youll have to shut off the water at the main valve (usually near the meter). That means your whole house will be without water until you install the new valve. If you already have a ball valve or if you choose to leave the old gate valve in place, you can simply shut it off. That way the rest of the house will have cold water while you work (toilets will still work!).

With the water and gas off, drain the water heater. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route it to a floor drain and open the drain valve. To allow air into the hot water lines and speed up the draining process, go to the highest faucet in the house and turn on the hot side only (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left).

If your valve doesnt look like this one, see Old gas valves can leak.

Disconnect the gas line at the union (Photo 2). Then disassemble the threaded tee and drip leg and remove the nipple from the water heater gas control valve. Dont throw them awayyoull need them for the new water heater. If your gas line is copper or a flexible supply line, just unscrew the nut.

To disassemble the vent piping, remove the sheet metal screws. Wear gloves; the ends of the metal piping are sharp. You can reuse the vent pipes if theyre in good shape. But if you find even slight holes, cracks or corrosion, toss them into the trash. New pipe is inexpensive and leaks can allow deadly carbon monoxide to build up in your home.

Next, cut the copper water lines with a tubing cutter (Photo 3). If you have copper corrugated water lines, simply disconnect the nuts at the water heater. If you have galvanized steel pipes, disconnect unions just as we did with the gas union shown in Photo 2. Also unscrew the blow tube from the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve. You may be able to reuse it on the new water heater.

At this point, the old heater should have drained enough so it can be moved off to the side (with a helper). If the heater isnt draining fast enough, sediment may be clogging the valve. Allow it to drain as long as possible and then move the heater outside so you can remove the drain valve from the tank.

Reconnect the water. Install new valves first so you can turn on the water to the rest of the house. Then install nipples, followed by threaded fittings and stubs of pipe. Hold the final section in place to mark the length.

Make the final connections with slip couplers. Be sure the coupler doesnt slide down as you heat it.

Set the drain pan into place with the opening facing the floor drain. Get someone to help you lift and set the heater in the pan. If youre replacing the isolation valve, solder on the new ball valve next.

Screw dielectric nipples into the new water heater. These plastic-lined nipples reduce corrosion and increase water heater life. Some water heaters come with dielectric nipples already installed (buy a set if yours doesnt have them). Be sure to coat the threads with pipe thread sealant or wrap with Teflon tape. Next, solder female threaded copper pipe fittings to short lengths of copper tubing and set them aside to cool. Tighten the cooled fittings onto the nipples. Then add short sections of pipe below the valves (Photo 4) and make the final connections with slip couplers (Photo 5). You must use slip couplersstandard stopped couplers wont work. For tips on soldering copper pipe, search for solder above.

Thread a blow tube onto the T&P valve. If the old blow tube is too short, you can use 3/4-in. galvanized steel pipe or copper pipe (along with a male threaded fitting). If you use galvanized pipe, cut off the threads on the bottom to prevent someone from capping off the blow tube if the T&P valve leaks.

Connect the vent pipe to the hood with sheet metal screws. Never use a reducer, even if the hoods opening is smaller than the vent pipe.

Snap the new draft hood onto the water heater and secure it with sheet metal screws. Check the installation manual for the recommended diameter vent pipe for your new heater. If the recommended vent pipe diameter is larger than the vent hood opening, dont install a reducer. Measure a straight section of new galvanized vent pipe to rise as high as possible before you install the adjustable elbow (the higher the rise, the better the draft). On any horizontal sections of vent, make sure the pipe slopes down toward the water heater 1/4 in. per foot of pipe. Bend out small sections of the pipe and attach it directly to the vent hood with screws (Photo 6). Then continue installing new vent pipe sections and connect to the flue. Most plumbing codes require a minimum of three screws for each vent pipe joint. For tips on cutting metal venting, search sheet metal above.

Reconnect the gas. Hold back the control valve to avoid damaging it. Then screw the drip leg into the tee.

Measure between the union and the tee and add 1 in. to determine the correct nipple length.

Test for leaks by brushing soapy water onto every connection. If you see bubbles, tighten or reconnect the joint.

Apply gas-rated pipe thread sealant or tape (dont use standard white Teflon tape) to the gas nipple and thread it into the new gas control valve. Tighten the nipple using two pipe wrenches (Photo 7). Assemble the tee and drip leg using the same two-wrench technique.

If the old section of pipe below the union no longer fits, youll need to measure for a new nipple (Photo 8). Make sure you assemble and tighten the gas union before you measure the length for the intermediate nipple. Add 3/4 in. to 1 in. to this measurement and buy a new nipple. When the gas connections are complete, turn on the gas and check for leaks (Photo 9). You can buy leak detector in a convenient spray bottle ($3) or mix your own solution (one part dish detergent, two parts water).

Open the water valves and an upstairs faucet and fill the tank. Leave the faucet open until water flows out. Then shut it off and check the new water connections for leaks. Open the gas valve and light the pilot light following the manufacturers instructions. Youre in for a pleasant surprise with your new water heatermanufacturers have done away with the old match-lit pilot system. Instead of igniting the pilot with a match or lighter, you just push a button.

When the burner fires up, test for backdrafting, which can allow deadly carbon monoxide into your home. Close all doors and windows and turn on kitchen and bath exhaust fans. When the burner has been running for at least one minute, move an incense stick around the draft hood. The smoke should be drawn up into the vent. If not, the exhaust may be entering your home. Turn off the gas and call in a professional plumber.

Finally, set the thermostat to a safe temperature. (For help, search for water heater temperature above.) In about two hours, youll have enough hot water for a well-deserved long shower.

The grease-pack valves found in older homes tend to leak as they age. Even if your local code doesnt require replacement, we recommend you install a ball-type gas valve instead ($10). Replacement isnt difficult; you just unscrew the old valve and screw on the new one. But you will have to turn off the main gas valve and later relight pilot lights. If you dont know how to handle these tasks, call in a professional plumber and expect to pay $80 to $150.

Youll find lots of accessories for your new water heater at the home center. Some are required by local codes; others are just good ideas. Plumbing codes vary, so check with your local inspector.

1. Gas shutoff valveAll codes require a gas valve near the water heater. If you have a grease-pack valve, see Old Gas Valves Can Leak section above.

2. Earthquake strapsThese straps prevent a water heater from tipping over and are required in earthquake-prone areas. $12 per pair.

3. Flexible gas lineA flexible gas line can withstand movement and is usually required in earthquake-prone areas. Theyre easier to connect than steel pipe, but theyre not allowed everywhere, so check with your inspector. $15.

4. Drip legAny dust or grit in the gas line falls into this short section of pipe before it can reach the water heaters control valve. The required length of the drip leg varies.

5. Isolation valveAll codes require a valve on the cold water line. Though not required by codes, a second valve on the hot line makes future water heater replacement easier. $10 each.

6. Flexible water linesThese flexible lines withstand movement and are required in earthquake zones. But you may want to use them just because theyre easy to install. $20 per pair.

7. Overflow panMost plumbing codes require a pan and drain pipe in locations where a leak can cause damage. But installing a drain pan is a good idea for any location. $18.

8. Expansion tankSome codes require an expansion tank to absorb the pressure created when heated water expands. $35.

9. Blow tubeThe T&P valve releases pressure, and a blow tube directs the scalding hot water toward the floor. The required distance between the blow tube and floor is usually 18 in. or less.

New Jersey building codes require a bonding wire be installed between the cold/hot pipes and the gas line. The majority of local codes dont require the bonding wires but they do serve a purpose. According to the experts we spoke with, bonding wires may actually extend the life of the water heater by diverting electrolysis from the anode rod and tankeven on electric models. So whether or not your local code calls for the bonding wire, you may want to install one to get more life out of your water heater. This little project is brain-dead simple. It only costs about $10 and takes about 10 minutes.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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Water Heater Installation | The Family Handyman

Water heater leaks can occur for a variety of reasons. It may be something as simple as a slightly open drain valve to a severe issue such as a corroded hot water tank. Most of the time, a water heater leaking is due to faulty plumbing connections or valves that have failed. At the very least, a leaking hot water heater is an annoyance. If not properly addressed, this small nuisance can quickly turn into a major problem.

While a small amount of water may seem harmless, it may eventually cause severe water damage to walls, floors, and subfloors if the leak is not taken care of quickly.In the worst cases, the area around the water heater could even experience flooding. What could have been a quick, inexpensive fix has now turned into costly repair bills.

In addition to water damage, serious health issues can arise due to mold and mildew growth in those wet, damp areas. According to the CDC, children, those with severe allergic reactions, or immune suppression are at highest risk of experiencing medical issues from exposure to mold.

With a water heater leak, you want to make diagnosing and fixing the problem a high priority. The leak wont magically go away on its own no matter how much you hope, so read on to learn what you should do.

WARNING: Before reading further, keep in mind that the water inside a water heater is most commonly heated to 125 F and possibly up to 190 F if set to its highest setting. Any water temperature in this range can cause severe injuries and even first degree burns on even the lowest setting. Always take extra precautions to avoid any contact with the heated water.

Obviously, if water is spraying out of pipes connected to the water heater, you have an issue. Its the other signs of water that are often difficult to find the source of leak (if there is one).

Sometimes, normal condensation from the water heater tank, pipes, or a nearby appliance is the culprit if you notice a small pool of water around the base of the tank. This is usually more noticeable during winter months when the inlet water temperature is especially cold or when filling the water heater for the first time. Once the temperature of the water in the tank has a chance to heat up, the outside condensation generally goes away.

If youre convinced its not condensation, closely inspect any plumbing to the water heater, valves, and the tank itself. If the leak is not obvious, use paper towels to wipe down all wet areas and take some time to observe to see if any area shows signs of water. Fortunately, water has to obey the laws of gravity so start from the top and work your way down.

If you still dont see signs of the leak, lay some paper towels in the area you originally found dampness and come back periodically to inspect. If the problem doesnt reappear after a day or two, its most likely nothing to be worried about but its best to keep an eye on it for a bit.

After confirming your water heater is actually leaking, you should immediately turn off the power source before you do anything else. When youre dealing with water and electricity, bad things can (and do) happen. Natural gas has its own dangers as well.

Next youll want to turn off the water source. Your water heater should have a dedicated cold water shut-off valve typically located near where the cold water inlet pipe connects to the tank. This valve will be one of two types:

Note that if you have not yet confirmed that the water heater is the source of the leak, you should leave the water supply ON to help you locate the leak.

If the leak is serious enough where you cannot safely get to the shut-off valve, you will need to locate the main shut-off valve for the house. In cooler climates, the main water line often enters through the floor of the foundation to keep the water from freezing. The main valve is located near this area next to the water meter.

In warmer climates, the main shut-off valve is normally next to the water meter in an outdoor box with an access cover or near the street. You may need a large wrench or curb key to close the valve. Its a good idea for every homeowner to know where the main water shutoff is BEFORE an emergency occurs.

In most cases, determining the location of the leak isnt too difficult since a water heater has a limited number of common failure points. What complicates matters is if an area is hard to see, if the water heater is old, or if condensation is the actual culprit. Here are the most common areas where water heater leaking is found:

The temperature and pressure relief valve (aka: T&P valve or TPR valve) is an important safety device thats a part of every standard electric or gas water heater. This valve is located at the top of the water heater and is connected to a pipe that runs down the side of the tank. Its purpose is to relieve pressure by letting some water out (usually a cup or two) in case the water inside the tank gets too hot.

Water expands when it is heated and the water tank can actually explode if the pressure relief valve is stuck closed. When you suspect a leak from the pressure relief valve, it is either defective, the connection from the T&P valve to the water tank is not watertight, or it is simply doing its job of releasing excess tank pressure. With the later, you dont necessarily have a leak but possibly a more serious issue that should be looked at by a professional. Replacement of a bad pressure relief valve is pretty straightforward.

Examine both the cold water inlet and hot water outlet connections at the top of the water heater. Many times, homeowners will find that one of the pipes or fittings is slightly loose and not watertight. Simply re-tightening with a pipe wrench is often all that is needed to fix the issue. The possibility does exist in older homes that deteriorated pipes are causing water to leak. If you suspect that, then its recommended to call a plumber so they can determine the extent of the damage.

Near the bottom of the tank is the water heater drain valve (usually plastic but also brass). It is used to drain the water tank for maintenance or to remove sediment. Sometimes this valve gets loose and just needs tightening. Other times, the valve may become defective and require replacement (easy DIY job). For a quick temporary fix to a leaking drain valve, simply screw on a garden hose spray nozzle or hose cap.

Not too common, but on electric water heaters, the gasket around the heating elements may become worn or pinched and cause dripping leaks. You will need to open the cover plate(s) on the side of the tank, push aside the insulation, and check around the gasket for any leaks.

Like other appliances, a water heater has a limited lifespan, which is generally about 10-15 years. To see how old your water heater is, youll need to look up its age.

Over time, sediment inside the tank starts to break down the interior of the water tank and rust starts to form. This rust then starts slowly eating away at the tank walls until a leak develops. When an internal leak occurs due to corrosion and deterioration, replacing the water heater with a new one is really the only option. Out with the old and in with the new.

Often, when you feel like your water heater is not heating, its actually due to a water tank leak which allows hot water to escape and be replaced with more cold water.

Once youve determined where the leak is coming from, you need to decide quickly if you want to repair it or replace your old water heater with a new one. Just because you found the leak doesnt mean it will stop leaking by itself. Many repairs or part replacements on a water heater are fairly easy to do yourself but if you have any doubts, please call a professional.

For many, time is money, and even though you have the skills to do it yourself, hiring a plumber is still a better option. If you do decide on making the repairs yourself, see the section below on how to fix a leaking water heater.

If your water heater is over 10 years old, its often best to simply replace it than put more money into repairs and then have it fail a couple years later. While water heater replacement can be done yourself, its highly recommended to let a licensed plumber do the job.

So youve made it this far and have decided you want to fix your water heater yourself. Fortunately, most repairs are pretty straightforward if you have a few basic tools and some patience. That said

WARNING: Do not attempt to repair your water heater unless you feel completely comfortable. With plumbing, a small leak can quickly become a much larger problem resulting in a much more serious leak, flooding, and even water damage. Water heater repairs should only be done at your own risk. If you have any doubt, let a plumber handle it.

There are a couple reasons why the temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) could be leaking, making it a common source for the leak.

Most likely, you may have a faulty pressure relief valve or debris inside it are preventing it from operating correctly. This is especially true with older water heaters.

To test, place a bucket or bowl under the overflow tube and pull the tab on the pressure relief valve (so its pointing straight out). This will cause the valve to open and flush out any debris or particles. If the valve still leaks after flushing, the part will need to be replaced. (See:Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve Replacement)

If the T&P valve is leaking at the connection to the water tank, you may simply need to tighten the connection. If that doesnt work, Teflon tape should be wrapped around the threaded connection to the tank. Do accomplish that, youll essentially need to follow the same instructions as if you were to be replacing the pressure relief.

The most common cause of leaking pipes at the top of the water heater is due to a loose connection. To fix, simply take a pipe wrench to tighten the connection. If after tightening, it continues to leak, a section of piping may need to be replaced which may require the help of a professional.

>> For more info, see:Water Heater Leaking from the Bottom

If water is running down from the pressure relief valve, through the overflow pipe and to the floor, its possible that too much pressure is being built up inside the tank and the pressure relief valve is doing its job draining some water to relief this pressure. If this excess pressure is not released, the water heater tank could literally explode.

To determine if excessive pressure in the tank is the cause of the leak, turn the water heater thermostat to its lowest setting, turn on the water supply, turn on the power (or gas), and observe your water heater for a short period of time. If water continues to drain out of the overflow pipe to relieve pressure, shut everything off and call a licensed plumber to have them look at it.

This is one of the easiest to fix water heater leaks. First, try tightening the valve connection in case its loose. Otherwise, debris may be causing the valve to not work correctly or the valve is faulty and needs replacement. Test by flushing out the drain valve first. Place an empty container under the heater drain valve (or attach a hose and route it outside) and open the valve for a couple seconds. This will flush out any debris that may have been present. Close the valve and check for leaking.

If the drain valve continues to leak, an easy temporary fix is to screw on a garden hose end cap or hose nozzle to seal the valve. Eventually, you will want to replace the heater drain valve. Unlike the pressure relief valve, the heater drain valve is not a mandatory safety feature so its not urgent that it get replaced right away. But dont forget about it if you use a temporary fix.

Hard to spot since the heater elements typically go through the side of an electric water heater tank and are covered by insulation and an access panel. Over time, the gaskets that seal the water out become worn or brittle and lose their watertight seal and need to be replaced. Follow the instructions on water heater element replacement.

If you have an older water heater and cannot pinpoint as to why it is leaking from the bottom, you most likely have a problem with the tank itself and the leak is due to corrosion of the walls from rust and aging. Because of the high pressure inside a water heater tank, attempting to repair it should be out of the question. At this point, the water heater should be replaced with a new one.

>> For more info, see:Water Heater Leaking from the Bottom

While this page includes the most common sources and fixes for hot water heater leaks, they wont cover every issue. Sometimes, replacing a part will still not fix the leak. In these cases, it could be due to a more serious issue and a professional plumber should be contacted.

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Water Heater Hub

Are you in search for the best tankless water heater? Heating water for various functions has currently become a basic need for each and every home. To serve this purpose individuals are now using water heaters which vary across different models and prices. One of the most widely used and best water heaters are tankless water heaters. Theyre high power water heaters that heat water instantly in a very efficient manner. They dont retain water internally. The heater is supplied with flow sensors that activate it once water travels through them. The water circulates through a device and is warmed by gas or electricity. Theyre coated with sturdy coatings to shield them from acidic environments.

Stiebel Eltron Tempra 24 Plus Electric Tankless Water Heater

Dimensions - 21.5 x 19.5 x 8.8 inches

Voltage - 208-240V

Digital temperature control

Rinnai RL75iN Natural Gas Tankless Water Heater

Dimensions - 14 x 9.3 x 23 inches

BTU-10,300 - 180,000

Thermal Efficiency-82%

Takagi T-KJr2-IN-LP Indoor Tankless Water Heater

Dimensions - 28 x 17 x 10.5 inches

BTU- 140,000

6.6 GPM max flow rate

Ecosmart ECO 36 36kw 240V Electric Tankless Water Heater

Dimensions - 17 x 19 x 3.8 inches

Voltage - 240V

Self Modulating Technology & digital temperature control

Rheem RTG-64DVLN Prestige Tankless Natural Gas Water Heater

Dimensions - 14 x 10 x 26 inches

Natural Gas

Direct Vent Indoor

In comparison with typical water heaters, the tankless heaters guarantee vital energy value savings. The tankless water heaters run at a slow rate thats by moving 2 to 5 gallons per minute.The advantages of some of the bestrated Bosch tankless water heaters are that they operate only when theres a requirement for warm water that helps in reducing energy prices. Theyre very much reliable additionally. If the unit is sized properly, they effortlessly deliver never-ending supply of water at predetermined temperature levels. These storage tank scores high in safety. Their safety is as a result of the actual fact that they solely operate once the hot water is needed.Heating water for various functions has currently become a basic need for each and every home.

Specifications are: Voltage: 240 Wattage: 24 Amperage: 250 Min. required circuit breaker size: double pole 260 Recommended wire size: 2 x 6 Maximum temp. increase: 92 Weight: 15.4 Width: 16 5/8 Height: 14 1/2 Depth: 4 5/8 Working pressure: 150 PSI.

This water heater can be easily compared with thetop quality Noritz electric tankless water heater. The features are built with advanced technology for providing better service to the users. It has digital temperature control system which helps in keeping a check on the temperature of the water being used in a simple way.The fundamental advantage is that for this kind of heaters, no venting is required which gives users a sigh of relief. The sleek designhelps in solving space problem so it can be kept anywhere in a proper place. Thiswhole house tankless water heaterconsumes very less power, so it saves our money at this part which is very much beneficial. The primary consideration for the buyer is to have an electrical service installed for it. Also, it can work at any range of temperature and provides unlimited hot water.

This Rinnai tankless water heater is 58.4 pounds in weight and has dimensions of 14 x 9.3 x 23 inches. This set is ideal for two to three bathroom homes and can be the best tankless gas water heater available. It delivers up to 7.5 gallons of hot water per minute (GPM) and helps in saving energy and money.

It is ideal for two- to three-bathroom homes which is a beneficial feature and could be used as the commercial tankless water heater. The R75LSi delivers up to 7.5 gallons of hot water per minute (GPM) while saving energy and money. It requires special Rinnai vent.It comes standard with MC-91-1 US digital controller with error code indicator. Its thermal efficiency is 82% which is an advantageous feature of this product. Temperature variations are an important characteristic- Residential Temperature Settings: 98F 140F and Commercial Temperature Settings: 98F 160F.This model turns out to be the top model that has got advantageous features supported by superior technology. It offers great versatility in every field that is either residential or commercial. With a sleep and contemporary design that easily fits into the available space. You may read Rinnai tankless water heater reviewsin detail on this site.

The capacity of this propane tankless water heater is for 1 to 2 bathrooms, and the flow rate is maximum with 6.6 GPM. Gas Inputs are 19,500 to 140,000 BTU per hour. Energy Factor Rating are 0.83. Inlet Gas Pressure Min: 8.0 W.C. / Max 14.0 W.C. Its dimensions are 20.3 H x 13.8 W x 6.7 D. It provides direct vent capability. It provides an electric ignition facility. Takagi heaters can give tough competition to the top heaters likebest quality Navien tankless water heaters.

This is the smallest water heater in the Takagi tankless line. This product is 38 pounds with product dimensions 28 x 17 x 10.5 inches. This is a powerful unit with gas inputs up to 140,000 BTU per hour can meet all the hot-water needs of a small home or apartment with one or two bathrooms.This product is cost efficient and is environmentally friendly. This Takagi tankless water heatercan be converted into a direct-vent unit by using the optional TV10 conversion kit for installation in a confined space.The unit has four preset temperatures on the unit are: 113F, 122F, 131F, 140F. To achieve any temperatures other than those presets, we require the TK-RE02 temperature controller. So its temperature settings are very much versatile.

The ideal weight of the product is 17.4 pounds with product dimensions 17*19*3.8 inches with 240 volts technology and even no battery is required. This brand also provides a lifetime warranty for residential use.

This product is equipped with latest and advanced patented self-modulating technology. It is the largest electrical tankless water heater available. The beneficial feature is that the incoming water temperatures can reach as low as 37 degrees F.A digital temperature control allows us to set temperature in increments of 1 degree so that we can set the temperature to how we like it. The ECO 36 is the most powerful model from the full line of tankless water heaters, with the capacity to handle a large single-family home.It saves up to 50% on our water heating costs with most advanced feasters. It is unto 90% smaller so space availability is not a problem. The feature is that the product is eco-friendly so it is safer to use.

This product is designed for continuous hot water. Its specifications 6.8 gal./min. at 35A-Degree F rise max. 5.3 gal./min. at 45A-Degree F rise max. Best features: New. 3-Inch/5-Inch Concentric Vent System with Integrated Condensate Collector.

It is 82% energy efficient with stainless steel condensing heat exchanger. It is equipped with intelligent electronic controls designed to increase energy efficiency and safety. The basic thing is that it is mostly used in industries.Hot start programming helps minimize fluctuation in water temperature, referred to as cold water sandwich, during periods of frequent on/off operation. So this top class Rheem tankless water heater provides reliability to the users by providing different temperature controls.It has a built-in electric blower. It is environmentally friendly with the ultra low NOx burner. Also, freeze protection is provided up to -30F. Installation is quite easy with the use of the Rheem service kit which has a port for pressure valve. The good thing is that the beginner can easily get the heater mounted by serving simplified manual.

A Piezo push-button ignition operates the 330 PN LP Therm Tankless Water Heater by Bosch. A constant temperature at varying flow rates of water is maintained as the product has a modulating gas valve. It has a flow rate of 3.3 gallons per minute at 35F degree rise and has a thermal efficiency of more than 78%. The tankless system can be wall-mounted, is easy to install and does not require any batteries.

The Bosch 330 PN is an ideal choice for small homes considering the following key features of the product:

PROS:

CONS:

The Eccotemp 45HI-LP Horizontal Bundle is a tankless water heater that can be wall mounted and is compact and easy to fit in small spaces; though it is termed as the largest indoor model of Eccotemp tankless line. The 45HI-LP can fulfill the hot water requirements of a regular household with up to two bathrooms as it has a 6.8 GPM and 140,000 BTU per hour. It also can cater to small commercial units as it has a fully automated control system. Powered by liquid propane, the device is split system adaptable that can further enhance its efficiency and increase the speed of hot water delivery.

The following key features make it a perfect choice for standard homes:

PROS:

CONS:

The Navien NPE240S-NG runs on a field convertible gas system and is powered by natural gas. The application has extra condensing efficiency and is strengthened by dual stainless steel heat exchangers. It has low NOx emissions which are equal to or less than 20 ppm. The unit can be wall hung and comes with an installation kit that includes a wall bracket and the connecting fittings to connect it to your plumbing. The temperature range is from 98 140 degrees Fahrenheit and the flow rate is 11.1 gallons per minute. The product can quickly meet the hot water requirements of a standard household.

The following key features help understand how the product will fit in with the needs of your household:

PROS:

CONS:

The Rheem RTG-84XLN is a tankless water heater that is powered by natural gas. This model is for residential use only and ensures you do not run out of hot water. It is based on the new next generation burner technology and requires outdoor installation. It is easy to install in comparison to an indoor tankless heater and requires less space as no additional venting is necessary. The product efficiently caters to the requirements of a two bathroom household and is an energy efficient application that provides a continuous supply of hot water.

The following key features make it an ideal solution for you to heat your water at home:

PROS:

CONS:

Capable of catering to the hot water requirements of two bathrooms in colder climates the Takagi T-H3S-DV-N with gas inputs of 180,000 BTU is an ideal choice for standard homes. In warmer climates, it can even provide for the hot water needs of homes with three bathrooms. The tankless water heater runs on natural gas is designed for indoor use only and has computerized safety features. It has a temperature range of 100 140 degrees_celsius and a flow rate of 8 gallons per minute. The product is compact and can be installed in smaller spaces leading to space saving. It is easy to install and provides for on demand usage.

The product is equipped with the following features that make it an ideal choice for regularly using in homes to meet its hot water needs:

PROS:

CONS:

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Tankless water heaters are now used at every place such as homes or business because of the increasing demand for this product. Due to the availability of a variety of products in the market different factors are required while choosing the best tankless water heater. So one should have in-depth knowledge about some of the best tankless water heater brands available in the market.

There are an endless number of brands to choose from and each is slightly different from the other inaddition to the cost of the tankless water heater of different kinds and sorts. Some help in providing environment-friendly technology while others put their main focus on efficiency and power. So we should find a right brand matching our need.

Some of the points to be considered before buying a tankless water heater are-

Hot water usage has become much more convenient and energy efficient because of increasing need of people. Best tankless hot water heaters deliver more consistent temperatures by using less energy. Tankless heaters provide hot water all at once, and no preheating is required so they are very time-saving.

Benefits of Going Tankless-

With todays rising costs of energy and environmental awareness in mind, different brands in the market has met and exceeded the expectations of home and business owners for new water heating solutions. These products have gained great success by combining new technology and functionality in an innovative way to heat water. So finally they enhance our lifestyle, utilize technology and provide hot water at low costs. As these devices use energy to heat water so the basic fact about a good tankless water heater is no wastage of energy.

Read More

1. How It Works: Tankless Water Heaters

2. Read more about tankless water heaters on Wikipedia.

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Best Tankless Water Heater (REVIEWS WITH COMPARISON)

Currently, the average hot water heater cost is $800-2,500, including installation. If the last time you replaced a water heater was 10 years or more, and its starting to give you trouble, it may be time to get a new device.

Lets take a look at the installation costs for different water heater types, as well as factors that impact the total price.

How much does a water heater cost?

Water Heater Repair

$250 - $350

40 Ga. Water Heater

$850 - $1100

Tankless Water Heater

$1200 - $3500

See costs in your areaStart Here - Enter Your Zip Code

Homeowners across the US are paying $850-2,500 to install a new water heater (including device and labor). Such a wide price ranges depends on the following:

type of heater (tank vs. tankless) size/capacity (40, 50, 75 gallons) power type (gas, electric, solar).

The installation cost itself may also vary greatly, depending on the complexity of the job.

In some cases, homeowners end up paying $1,000-3,000 for the install, on top of the cost of the heater itself. You can expect higher than average installation charges if you want to switch from a storage tank to an on demand heater.

There are four general types of water heaters: tank-style, tankless, hybrid and solar.

Tank and tankless are the most popular, so we will focus on them.

Tank (storage) style: this is the most common and budget friendly hot water heater. It continuously heats and stores a specific amount of water (40, 50, 75, 100 gallons), in an insulated tank. The stored water is delivered via pipes, when its needed. Lower-end models can cost as little as $300, but on average they run $650-850, by brands like Westinghouse. High- end tank heaters can cost over $1000, by brands like A.O.Smith.

Tankless (on demand): these water heaters DONT store water. Instead, they use special heating coils to heat water when you need it. These devices can cost significantly more than tank models of the same size (although high-end water heaters cost about the same). Prices start at around $800 for a gas heater from brands like Rheem, and can go up as high as $1,500+ for premium brands like Noritz.

Electric tankless water heaters cost $160-500, with EcoSmart, being a very popular, highly rated brand.

If you have been researching various water heater options, you way be wondering if its worth it to pay more for a tankless model. Perhaps a traditional hot water heater would be just as good?

Well, here is some advice from the pros to help you choose the best product for your household needs.

Why a tankless water heater may be the right choice:

A typical on-demand unit is more expensive than a storage one, because it offers a number of significant advantages:

Why a storage tank heater may be the right choice:

With tank-style models, the size of the water heater has a direct impact on the price. The bigger the tank, the higher the price. The difference between 40 vs 50 gallons is about $150-250, depending on the manufacturer. However the difference between 50 vs. 75 gallons can be as high $400-600. Tanks that hold 100 gallons are very expensive. They often cost double or even triple the price of a 50 gallon tank of the same brand.

How much does a water heater cost?

Water Heater Repair

$250 - $350

40 Ga. Water Heater

$850 - $1100

Tankless Water Heater

$1200 - $3500

See costs in your areaStart Here - Enter Your Zip Code

How to choose a water heater (video):

How to quickly determine the right size water heater for your house

It all boils down to how much hot water you use. Some people like 30-minute showers and long baths, while others are in and out in 5 minutes, and never/rarely take a bath.

I was going to get us a 40 gallon tank, because I take 3-5 minute showers. But my plumber convinced me to go with 50 gallons, and he was absolutely right! My kids take baths (we have a large jacuzzi tub), and when they do, hot water disappears!

With tankless models, efficiency is determined by the maximum temperature rise possible at a given flow rate, known as GPM. Average size tankless heaters have a GPM rating between 5-6. More powerful devices can go as high as 11-12 GPM. Roughly, every additional GPM costs about $100 extra, depending on the manufacturer.

Keep in mind that gas tankless water heaters produce a larger temperature rise per GPM than electric models. This means that if your household water usage is very high and frequent, you are better off paying more for a tankless gas model.

Note, whether you go for a storage or tankless device, its important to get the RIGHT size, based on a real calculation of your households water usage. This may mean spending more money upfront, but its well worth it!

If you get a heater that is too small, your family will be very uncomfortable for the next 10-12 years in all daily tasks, from taking showers to doing laundry.

Electric heaters cost significantly less than gas ones. Among tankless models, the majority cost between $200-350. A device that costs between$700-800 is considered the very top of the line, from brands like Stiebel. By comparison, the $700 dollar range is a fairly low average for a tankless gas water heater. The vast majority of gas devices cost between $1,200-1,800.

When it comes to storage water heaters the difference in price between electric vs gas-powered models is less pronounced. The range for most electric devices is $300-600, and you can find many gas heaters in the same price range. Still, gas tank style heaters are more expensive overall, with many costing well over $1,500.

When you browse different devices, you will quickly notice that some water heater brands cost at least double the price of others, when all else is equal.

However, high-end brands are often more expensive for the following reasons:

they have better quality internal parts that last longer overall better design offer longer, more comprehensive warranties

Surely, you will also be paying a premium for the prestige of certain brands.

It may not be worth it to splurge thousands of dollars on a heater by A.O Smith or Westinghouse, but it is also safer to steer clear of budget brands. While you will save a few hundred dollars upfront, in the long run, you will spend more on repairing or replacing a device that stopped working way before the expected end of life.

Your best bet is to go for good quality brands such as Rheem, Tagaki, this is where the BEST VALUE is.

There are a number of things that will effect how much a plumber charges for labor on a particular install:

1. Type of heater: if you are installing a regular gas storage tank, the job is fairly straightforward. This is especially true if you are simply replacing a heater that you had before with a new model. Consequently, you should expect to pay no more than $300-450 for this work.

Installation of a tankless gas heater starts at around $1,200 because the process is more involved and time-consuming.

If you have a storage unit and want to switch to a tankless one, you should be prepared to spend a lot more. This is because, in most homes the existing gas piping, meter and gas line to the meter, may not be able to handle the high gas load of a tankless device.

Consequently, there will be a lot of complex labor involved in the switch, such as:

retrofitting the existing gas line perhaps putting in a new line installing a proper venting system possibly having additional electrical wiring done (you will need to hire an electrician) maybe re-routing gas and water lines, and possibly electricity, depending on the layout of your basement and ventilation.

Moreover, you may not be able to vent the gas tankless heater into the chimney and may need to do a direct vent outside. Homeowners looking to make this switch should budget $1,500-3,5000 for labor.

Similarly, if you are switching to an electric tankless device, an electrician will need to do a lot of work to rewire and expand your homes existing system to handle the extra power usage from the heater (which is VERY high). Some of the most powerful electric tankless models can use as much as 120 amps. So if you have a 100 amp service, you cant use an electric tankless water without upgrading the electric panel to at least 200 amps. This will cost an extra $1,000-1,500 on average, but can be as much as $3,000 depending on the complexity of labor involved, such as having to open walls, etc.

2. Your location: while this may not seem fair to you as a homeowner, the reality is that contractors rates vary depending on where you live. In high-income suburban areas, as well as expensive cities such as San Francisco, New York, Boston, Miami, a plumber will charge as much as 15-25% more for labor, compared to areas where incomes are significantly lower.

3. Unreasonable pricing scams: because most homeowners have no idea about plumbing and what this work entails, many plumbers take the liberty of charging EXTREMELY high prices for NO REASON. For example, many companies may offer to buy the hot water heater for you (they will help you select one), and then will roll their labor fees into the total cost. As a result, many people end up paying as much as the cost of the heater itself, for an easy, straight forward installation! For example, if your heater costs $700, your total charge will be $1,400, or more.

To avoid these types of companies, it is important to get estimates from 3-4 local professionals, and ask them exactly what type of work they will be performing. It is also a good idea to conduct your own research online, ask your neighbors, etc, to see how much people in your area are paying for this home improvement project. If a contractor sees that you have done your research, he will most likely give you a fair price.

We strongly recommend paying for professional installation, as opposed to going DIY, because dealing with gas and electricity can be very dangerous!

How much does a water heater cost?

Water Heater Repair

$250 - $350

40 Ga. Water Heater

$850 - $1100

Tankless Water Heater

$1200 - $3500

See costs in your areaStart Here - Enter Your Zip Code

Read more from the original source:
Costs To Install A Hot Water Heater In 2018

On This Page:

Hot water is an essential part of modern life, a necessity rather than a luxury. So choosing and installing a water heater is a very important decision in the life of your home. Whether you are replacing an old water heater or installing a brand new system, you may be concerned about the price. There are a number of factors that play a part in the cost of installing a new hot water heater.

Average cost with installation:

Water heaters come in two different styles: tank and tankless. Both heat your water, but they do it in different ways. A tank style water heater stores a given amount of water, usually 40 to 50 gallons, and keeps it heated to the temperature you set it at, sending it along when you open the hot water tap. A tankless system doesnt store the water and heats it only when you need it by means of a series of super-heated coils. Each kind has its good points and bad points:

Tank

Pros

Cons

Tankless

Pros

Cons

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Water heaters are either gas-fired or electrically-fired. The difference between the two is how the water is heated, via natural gas or electrical resistance coils. Gas water heaters are less energy-efficient than electric water heaters, but the cost of electricity can still make gas the less expensive choice. Here are some other points of comparison between the two:

Electric

Gas

Energy Source

Whatever your city uses

Natural gas

Works During Power Outage

No

Yes

Lifespan

About 12 years

Recovery Rate

About 14 gallons per hour

About 50 gallons per hour

Energy Efficiency

90%

60% - 70%

Cost Over 12 Year Lifespan

$6248.00

$4979.00

Price of Unit

$300.00 to $2,880.00

$250.00 to $1,500.00

For a large family of 5 or more people, a gas water heater will be the most suitable. The fast recovery time will ensure that you have enough hot water for your needs in as short a time as possible. Even the on-demand tankless water heaters cant keep up with the high demands of a large family and will slow the water to a trickle the higher the demand gets.

Small families and studio apartments can often use an electric or tankless water heater (if the apartments are on individual units). With a tankless system, the relatively low demand on the water heater allows you to take full advantage of the energy efficiency without taxing the unit.

Solar Water Heaters

Some people supplement their hot water system with a solar water heater. While these can help increase the hot water available for your family, they are also very expensive. They can cost over $1,000.00 at their base price, and the amount of savings varies widely according to your use.

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To determine what size water heater you need, keep in mind that bigger isnt always better. A conventional water heater is running all the time, so it will waste money to heat water that youre never going to use. Fortunately, calculating what size to get is easy, requiring only simple, grade-school level math.

First you need to figure out your FHR (First Hour Rating). This is the amount of water youll use during your homes peak time of water usage. This is usually first thing in the morning when everyone is taking showers, brushing their teeth, filling the coffee pot, etc. To do this, count the number of people in your household (or, if the house is currently unoccupied, count the number of bedrooms) and add 1. A four-bedroom house, for example, would come out to 5. Multiply that number by 12, the estimated gallons of hot water each person will use. For this example, the total is 60. (4+1=5, 5x12=60).

Now that you know your homes FHR, youll want to get a water heater with the highest energy factor (EF) that you can afford. All of this information should be on a yellow label on the water heater.

The average water heater for a family of 5+ is around 50 gallons. The average FHR for these units ranges from 67 on the low end to 81 on the high end.

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To begin with, lets revisit grade-school science: hot water expands.

Water is not compressible, which means that as it heats up, it will not press in on itself. It will look for somewhere to go. Check valves keep the expanding water from flowing back into the municipal water supply. This helps your municipality protect the city water supply from contaminants.

So where does that water go as it expands? Most water heaters have a little room inside for expansion. However, even though water doesnt normally expand by much, any system can fail. In this case, the expanding water flows into the expansion tank. The expansion tank is usually more than adequate to handle the anticipated pressure from your tank.

Do you need one? Yes. Without a safe place for the expanded water to go, you can experience a total failure of your water heating system. This is a fancy way of saying that your water heater and/or pipes can burst. Many codes today require an expansion tank be installed with new construction. For a retro-fitting, most expansion tanks cost between $40.00 and $70.00. Someone who is handy with tools can install their own. If you have any doubts, though, call a plumber. This project involves gas and/or electrical lines.

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Do you need a new water heater? Here are some easy ways to find out. Some may require a little periodic checking while others become obvious only after things have gone wrong:

When it comes time to replace your water heater, its best to call a professional. This way you can be sure that everything has been done safely and to code.

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The most popular brands of water heaters are popular for a reason. They are reliable, affordable, and readily available. Some brands, such as AO Smith, are sold exclusively by plumbing wholesalers and contractors. Others are available at your local hardware or home improvement stores.

The costs above are estimates for the water heater only. They are for the common 40- to 50-gallon capacity units and do not include installation, transportation, or other additional costs.

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A water heater is a must in your home. As technology advances, the efficiency of these systems will increase, making hot water even more affordable than before. Though some systems can be installed DIY, its best to call a professional to be sure the job is done right.

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Read more here:
2018 Water Heater Installation Costs | Price to Replace a ...

Trust Lowe's With Your Water Heater Installation

From gas water heaters to electric water heaters, tankless water heaters and more, we'll help you find the best product for your needs and ensure it's installed to your satisfaction.

Forget the Worry. You're Covered.

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Lowes Can Help With Your Water Heater Installation

Need help with a water heater installation? You dont have to know how to install a water heater or how to install a tankless water heater yourself. Lowes independent installers have you covered for tankless water heater installations and any other hot water heater installations your property may require. Why learn how to install a hot water heater yourself? Tankless water heater installation costs may be less than you think. You have better things to do than installing a water heater or managing water heater installation costs. Quit wondering how to install a water heater and contact Lowes today.

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Water Heater Installation from Lowe's

"Hot water" redirects here. For other uses, see Hot Water.

Water heating is a heat transfer process that uses an energy source to heat water above its initial temperature. Typical domestic uses of hot water include cooking, cleaning, bathing, and space heating. In industry, hot water and water heated to steam have many uses.

Domestically, water is traditionally heated in vessels known as water heaters, kettles, cauldrons, pots, or coppers. These metal vessels that heat a batch of water do not produce a continual supply of heated water at a preset temperature. Rarely, hot water occurs naturally, usually from natural hot springs. The temperature varies with the consumption rate, becoming cooler as flow increases.

Appliances that provide a continual supply of hot water are called water heaters, hot water heaters, hot water tanks, boilers, heat exchangers, geysers, or calorifiers. These names depend on region, and whether they heat potable or non-potable water, are in domestic or industrial use, and their energy source. In domestic installations, potable water heated for uses other than space heating is also called domestic hot water (DHW).

Fossil fuels (natural gas, liquefied petroleum gas, oil), or solid fuels are commonly used for heating water. These may be consumed directly or may produce electricity that, in turn, heats water. Electricity to heat water may also come from any other electrical source, such as nuclear power or renewable energy. Alternative energy such as solar energy, heat pumps, hot water heat recycling, and geothermal heating can also heat water, often in combination with backup systems powered by fossil fuels or electricity.

Densely populated urban areas of some countries provide district heating of hot water. This is especially the case in Scandinavia, Finland and Poland. District heating systems supply energy for water heating and space heating from combined heat and power (CHP) plants, waste heat from industries, incinerators, geothermal heating, and central solar heating. Actual heating of tap water is performed in heat exchangers at the consumers' premises. Generally the consumer has no in-building backup system, due to the expected high availability of district heating systems.

Hot water used for space heating may be heated by fossil fuels in a boiler, while potable water may be heated in a separate appliance. This is common practice in the US, especially when warm-air space heating is usually employed.[1]

In household and commercial usage, most North American and Southern Asian water heaters are the tank type, also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical vessel or container that keeps water continuously hot and ready to use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 US gallons). These may use electricity, natural gas, propane, heating oil, solar, or other energy sources. Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. In the United States, typical natural gas water heaters for households without unusual needs are 40 or 50 US gallons with a burner rated at 34,000 to 40,000 BTU/hour. Some models offer "High Efficiency and Ultra Low NOx" emissions.

This is a popular arrangement where higher flow rates are required for limited periods, water is heated in a pressure vessel that can withstand a hydrostatic pressure close to that of the incoming mains supply. In North America, these vessels are called hot water tanks, and may incorporate an electrical resistance heater, a heat pump, or a gas or oil burner that heats water directly.

Where hot-water space heating boilers are installed, domestic hot water cylinders are usually heated indirectly by primary water from the boiler, or by an electric immersion heater (often as backup to the boiler). In the UK these vessels are called indirect cylinders, or direct cylinders, respectively. Additionally, if these cylinders form part of a sealed system, providing mains-pressure hot water, they are known as unvented cylinders. In the US, when connected to a boiler they are called indirect-fired water heaters.

Compared to tankless heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. The disadvantage is that over time, heat escapes through the tank wall and the water cools down, activating the heating system to heat the water back up, so investing in a tank with better insulation improves this standby efficiency.[2] Additionally, when heavy use exhausts the hot water, there is a significant delay before hot water is available again. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates.

Volume storage water heaters in the United States and New Zealand are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Volume storage water heaters in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms. In Australia, gas and electric outdoor tank heaters have mainly been used (with high temperatures to increase effective capacity), but solar roof tanks are becoming fashionable.

Tiny point-of-use (POU) electric storage water heaters with capacities ranging from 8 to 32 liters (2 to 6 gallons) are made for installation in kitchen and bath cabinets or on the wall above a sink. They typically use low power heating elements, about 1kW to 1.5kW, and can provide hot water long enough for hand washing, or, if plumbed into an existing hot water line, until hot water arrives from a remote high capacity water heater. They may be used when retrofitting a building with hot water plumbing is too costly or impractical. Since they maintain water temperature thermostatically, they can only supply a continuous flow of hot water at extremely low flow rates, unlike high-capacity tankless heaters.

In tropical countries, like Singapore and India, a storage water heater may vary from 10L to 35L. Smaller water heaters are sufficient, as ambient weather temperatures and incoming water temperature are moderate.

A locational design decision may be made between point-of-use and centralized water heaters. Centralized water heaters are more traditional, and are still a good choice for small buildings. For larger buildings with intermittent or occasional hot water use, multiple POU water heaters may be a better choice, since they can reduce long waits for hot water to arrive from a remote heater. The decision where to locate the water heater(s) is only partially independent of the decision of a tanked vs. tankless water heater, or the choice of energy source for the heat.

Tankless water heatersalso called instantaneous, continuous flow, inline, flash, on-demand, or instant-on water heatersare gaining in popularity.[citation needed] These high-power water heaters instantly heat water as it flows through the device, and do not retain any water internally except for what is in the heat exchanger coil. Copper heat exchangers are preferred in these units because of their high thermal conductivity and ease of fabrication.

Tankless heaters may be installed throughout a household at more than one point-of-use (POU), far from a central water heater, or larger centralized models may still be used to provide all the hot water requirements for an entire house. The main advantages of tankless water heaters are a plentiful continuous flow of hot water (as compared to a limited flow of continuously heated hot water from conventional tank water heaters), and potential energy savings under some conditions. The main disadvantage is their much higher initial costs, a US study in Minnesota study reported a 20- to 40-year payback for the tankless water heaters.[3] In a comparison to a less efficient natural gas fired hot water tank, on-demand natural gas will cost 30% more over its useful life.[4]

Stand-alone appliances for quickly heating water for domestic usage are known in North America as tankless or on demand water heaters. In some places, they are called multipoint heaters, geysers or ascots. In Australia and New Zealand they are called instantaneous hot water units. In Argentina they are called calefones. In that country calefones use gas instead of electricity. A similar wood-fired appliance was known as the chip heater.

A common arrangement where hot-water space heating is employed, is for a boiler to also heat potable water, providing a continuous supply of hot water without extra equipment. Appliances that can supply both space-heating and domestic hot water are called combination (or combi) boilers. Though on-demand heaters provide a continuous supply of domestic hot water, the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies.

An electric shower head has an electric heating element which heats water as it passes through. These self-heating shower heads are specialized point-of-use (POU) tankless water heaters, and are widely used in some countries.

Invented in Brazil in the 1930s and used frequently since the 1940s, the electric shower is a home appliance often seen in South American countries due to the higher costs of gas distribution. Earlier models were made of chromed copper or brass, which were expensive, but since 1970, units made of injected plastics are popular due to low prices similar to that of a hair dryer. Electric showers have a simple electric system, working like a coffee maker, but with a larger water flow. A flow switch turns on the device when water flows through it. Once the water is stopped, the device turns off automatically. An ordinary electric shower often has three heat settings: high (5.5kW), low (2.5kW), or cold (0W) to use when a central heater system is available or in hot seasons.

The power consumption of electric showers in the maximum heating setting is about 5.5kW for 120V and 7.5kW for 220V. The lower costs with electric showers compared to the higher costs with boilers is due to the time of use: an electric shower uses energy only while the water flows, while a boiler works many times a day to keep a quantity of standing water hot for use throughout the day and night. Moreover, the transfer of electric energy to the water in an electric shower head is very efficient, approaching 100%. Electric showers may save energy compared to electric tank heaters, which lose some standby heat.

There is a wide range of electric showers, with various types of heating controls. The heating element of an electric shower is immersed in the water stream, using a nichrome resistance element which is sheathed and electrically isolated, like the ones used in oil heaters, radiators or clothes irons, providing safety. Due to electrical safety standards, modern electric showers are made of plastic instead of using metallic casings like in the past. As an electrical appliance that uses more electric current than a washer or a dryer, an electric shower installation requires careful planning, and generally is intended to be wired directly from the electrical distribution box with a dedicated circuit breaker and ground system. A poorly installed system with old aluminum wires or bad connections may be dangerous, as the wires can overheat or electric current may leak via the water stream through the body of the user to earth.[5]

Increasingly, solar powered water heaters are being used. Their solar collectors are installed outside dwellings, typically on the roof or walls or nearby, and the potable hot water storage tank is typically a pre-existing or new conventional water heater, or a water heater specifically designed for solar thermal.

The most basic solar thermal models are the direct-gain type, in which the potable water is directly sent into the collector. Many such systems are said to use integrated collector storage (ICS), as direct-gain systems typically have storage integrated within the collector. Heating water directly is inherently more efficient than heating it indirectly via heat exchangers, but such systems offer very limited freeze protection (if any), can easily heat water to temperatures unsafe for domestic use, and ICS systems suffer from severe heat loss on cold nights and cold, cloudy days.

By contrast, indirect or closed-loop systems do not allow potable water through the panels, but rather pump a heat transfer fluid (either water or a water/antifreeze mix) through the panels. After collecting heat in the panels, the heat transfer fluid flows through a heat exchanger, transferring its heat to the potable hot water. When the panels are cooler than the storage tank or when the storage tank has already reached its maximum temperature, the controller in closed-loop systems stops the circulation pumps. In a drainback system, the water drains into a storage tank contained in conditioned or semi-conditioned space, protected from freezing temperatures. With antifreeze systems, however, the pump must be run if the panel temperature gets too hot (to prevent degradation of the antifreeze) or too cold (to prevent the water/antifreeze mixture from freezing.)

Flat panel collectors are typically used in closed-loop systems. Flat panels, which often resemble skylights, are the most durable type of collector, and they also have the best performance for systems designed for temperatures within 56C (100F) of ambient temperature. Flat panels are regularly used in both pure water and antifreeze systems.

Another type of solar collector is the evacuated tube collector, which are intended for cold climates that do not experience severe hail and/or applications where high temperatures are needed (i.e., over 94C [201F]). Placed in a rack, evacuated tube collectors form a row of glass tubes, each containing absorption fins attached to a central heat-conducting rod (copper or condensation-driven). The evacuated description refers to the vacuum created in the glass tubes during the manufacturing process, which results in very low heat loss and lets evacuated tube systems achieve extreme temperatures, far in excess of water's boiling point.

In countries like Iceland and New Zealand, and other volcanic regions, water heating may be done using geothermal heating, rather than combustion.

Where a space-heating water boiler is employed, the traditional arrangement in the UK is to use boiler-heated (primary) water to heat potable (secondary) water contained in a cylindrical vessel (usually made of copper)which is supplied from a cold water storage vessel or container, usually in the roof space of the building. This produces a fairly steady supply of DHW (Domestic Hot Water) at low static pressure head but usually with a good flow. In most other parts of the world, water heating appliances do not use a cold water storage vessel or container, but heat water at pressures close to that of the incoming mains water supply.

Other improvements to water heaters include check valve devices at their inlet and outlet, cycle timers, electronic ignition in the case of fuel-using models, sealed air intake systems in the case of fuel-using models, and pipe insulation. The sealed air-intake system types are sometimes called "band-joist" intake units. "High-efficiency" condensing units can convert up to 98% of the energy in the fuel to heating the water. The exhaust gases of combustion are cooled and are mechanically ventilated either through the roof or through an exterior wall. At high combustion efficiencies a drain must be supplied to handle the water condensed out of the combustion products, which are primarily carbon dioxide and water vapor.

In traditional plumbing in the UK, the space-heating boiler is set up to heat a separate hot water cylinder or water heater for potable hot water. Such water heaters are often fitted with an auxiliary electrical immersion heater for use if the boiler is out of action for a time. Heat from the space-heating boiler is transferred to the water heater vessel/container by means of a heat exchanger, and the boiler operates at a higher temperature than the potable hot water supply. Most potable water heaters in North America are completely separate from the space heating units, due to the popularity of HVAC/forced air systems in North America.

Residential combustion water heaters manufactured since 2003 in the United States have been redesigned to resist ignition of flammable vapors and incorporate a thermal cutoff switch, per ANSI Z21.10.1. The first feature attempts to prevent vapors from flammable liquids and gases in the vicinity of the heater from being ignited and thus causing a house fire or explosion. The second feature prevents tank overheating due to unusual combustion conditions. These safety requirements were made in response to homeowners storing, or spilling, gasoline or other flammable liquids near their water heaters and causing fires. Since most of the new designs incorporate some type of flame arrestor screen, they require monitoring to make sure they do not become clogged with lint or dust, reducing the availability of air for combustion. If the flame arrestor becomes clogged, the thermal cutoff may act to shut down the heater.

A wetback stove (NZ), wetback heater (NZ), or back boiler (UK), is a simple household secondary water heater using incidental heat. It typically consists of a hot water pipe running behind a fireplace or stove (rather than hot water storage), and has no facility to limit the heating. Modern wetbacks may run the pipe in a more sophisticated design to assist heat-exchange. These designs are being forced out by government efficiency regulations that do not count the energy used to heat water as 'efficiently' used.[6]

Though not very popular in North America, another type of water heater developed in Europe predated the storage model. In London, England, in 1868, a painter named Benjamin Waddy Maughan invented the first instantaneous domestic water heater that did not use solid fuel. Named the geyser after an Icelandic gushing hot spring, Maughan's invention made cold water at the top flow through pipes that were heated by hot gases from a burner at the bottom. Hot water then flowed into a sink or tub. The invention was somewhat dangerous because there was no flue to remove heated gases from the bathroom. A water heater is still sometimes called a geyser in the UK.

Maughn's invention influenced the work of a Norwegian mechanical engineer named Edwin Ruud. The first automatic, storage tank-type gas water was invented around 1889 by Ruud after he immigrated to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania (US). The Ruud Manufacturing Company, still in existence today, made many advancements in tank-type and tankless water heater design and operation.

Water typically enters residences in the US at about 10C (50F), depending on latitude and season. Hot water temperatures of 50C (122F) are usual for dish-washing, laundry and showering, which requires that the heater raise the water temperature about 40C (72F) if the hot water is mixed with cold water at the point of use. The Uniform Plumbing Code reference shower flow rate is 2.5 US gallons (9.5L) per minute. Sink and dishwasher usages range from 13 US gallons (411L) per minute.

Natural gas in the US is measured in CCF (100 cubic feet), which is converted to a standardized energy unit called the therm, which is equal to 100,000 British thermal units (BTU). A BTU is the energy required to raise one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. A US gallon of water weighs 8.3 pounds (3.8kg). To raise 60 gallons of water from 10C (50F) to 50C (122F) requires 60 8.3 (122 50) = 35,856 BTU, or approximately 0.359CCF (35,856/100,000), at 88% efficiency.[clarification needed] A 157,000BTU/h heater (as might exist in a tankless heater) would take 15.6 minutes to do this, at 88% efficiency. At $1 per therm, the cost of the gas would be about 41 cents.

In comparison, a typical 60 gallon tank electric water heater has a 4500 watt (15,355BTU) heating element, which at 100% efficient results in a heating time of about 2.34 hours. At 16cents/kWh the electricity would cost $1.68.

Energy efficiencies of water heaters in residential use can vary greatly, particularly depending on manufacturer and model. However, electric heaters tend to be slightly more efficient (not counting power station losses) with recovery efficiency (how efficiently energy transfers to the water) reaching about 98%. Gas fired heaters have maximum recovery efficiencies of only about 8294% (the remaining heat is lost with the flue gasses). Overall energy factors can be as low as 80% for electric and 50% for gas systems. Natural gas and propane tank water heaters with energy factors of 62% or greater, as well as electric tank water heaters with energy factors of 93% or greater, are considered high-efficiency units. Energy Star-qualified natural gas and propane tank water heaters (as of September 2010) have energy factors of 67% or higher, which is usually achieved using an intermittent pilot together with an automatic flue damper, baffle blowers, or power venting. Direct electric resistance tank water heaters are not included in the Energy Star program, however, the Energy Star program does include electric heat pump units with energy factors of 200% or higher. Tankless gas water heaters (as of 2015) must have an energy factor of 90% or higher for Energy Star qualification. Since electricity production in thermal plants has efficiency levels ranging from only 15% to slightly over 55% (combined cycle gas turbine), with around 40% typical for thermal power stations, direct resistance electric water heating may be the least energy efficient option. However, use of a heat pump can make electric water heaters much more energy efficient and lead to a decrease in carbon dioxide emissions, even more so if a low carbon source of electricity is used.

Unfortunately, it takes a great deal of energy to heat water, as one may experience when waiting to boil a gallon of water on a stove. For this reason, tankless on-demand water heaters require a powerful energy source. A standard 120-V, 15-ampere rated wall electric outlet, by comparison, only sources enough power to warm a disappointingly small amount of water: about 0.17 US gallons (0.64L) per minute at 40C (72F) temperature elevation.

On April 16, 2015, as part of the National Appliance Energy Conservation Act (NAECA), new minimum standards for efficiency of residential water heaters set by the United States Department of Energy went into effect.[7] All new gas storage tank water heaters with capacities smaller than 55 US gallons (210l; 46impgal) sold in the United States in 2015 or later shall have an energy factor of at least 60% (for 50-US-gallon units, higher for smaller units), increased from the pre-2015 minimum standard of 58% energy factor for 50-US-gallon gas units. Electric storage tank water heaters with capacities less than 55 US gallons sold in the United States shall have an energy factor of at least 95%, increased from the pre-2015 minimum standard of 90% for 50-US-gallon electric units.

Under the 2015 standard, for the first time, storage water heaters with capacities of 55 US gallons or larger now face stricter efficiency requirements than those of 50 US gallons or less. Under the pre-2015 standard, a 75-US-gallon (280l; 62impgal) gas storage water heater with a nominal input of 75,000 British thermal units (79,000kJ) or less was able to have an energy factor as low as 53%, while under the 2015 standard, the minimum energy factor for a 75-US-gallon gas storage tank water heater is now 74%, which can only be achieved by using condensing technology. Storage water heaters with a nominal input of 75,000 btu or greater are not currently affected by these requirements, since energy factor is not defined for such units. An 80-US-gallon (300l; 67impgal) electric storage tank water heater was able to have a minimum energy factor of 86% under the pre-2015 standard, while under the 2015 standard, the minimum energy factor for an 80-gallon electric storage tank water heater is now 197%, which is only possible with heat pump technology. This rating measures efficiency at the point of use. Depending on how electricity is generated, overall efficiency may be much lower. For example, in a traditional coal plant, only about 3035% of the energy in the coal ends up as electricity on the other end of the generator.[8] Losses on the electrical grid (including line losses and voltage transformation losses) reduce electrical efficiency further. According to data from the Energy Information Administration, transmission and distribution losses in 2005 consumed 6.1% of net generation.[8] In contrast, 90% of natural gas energy value is delivered to the consumer.[9] (In neither case is the energy expended exploring, developing and extracting coal or natural gas resources included in the quoted efficiency numbers.) Gas tankless water heaters shall have an energy factor of 82% or greater under the 2015 standards, which corresponds to the pre-2015 Energy Star standard.

Water heaters potentially can explode and cause significant damage, injury, or death if certain safety devices are not installed. A safety device called a temperature and pressure relief (T&P or TPR) valve, is normally fitted on the top of the water heater to dump water if the temperature or pressure becomes too high. Most plumbing codes require that a discharge pipe be connected to the valve to direct the flow of discharged hot water to a drain, typically a nearby floor drain, or outside the living space. Some building codes allow the discharge pipe to terminate in the garage.[10]

If a gas or propane fired water heater is installed in a garage or basement, many plumbing codes require that it be elevated at least 18in (46cm) above the floor to reduce the potential for fire or explosion due to spillage or leakage of combustible liquids in the garage. Furthermore, certain local codes mandate that tank-type heaters in new and retrofit installations must be secured to an adjacent wall by a strap or anchor to prevent tipping over and breaking the water and gas pipes in the event of an earthquake.[11]

For older houses where the water heater is part of the space heating boiler, and plumbing codes allow, some plumbers install an automatic gas shutoff (such as the "Watts 210") in addition to a TPR valve. When the device senses that the temperature reaches 99C (210F), it shuts off the gas supply and prevents further heating.[citation needed] In addition, an expansion tank or exterior pressure relief valve must be installed to prevent pressure buildup in the plumbing from rupturing pipes, valves, or the water heater.

Scalding is a serious concern with any water heater. Human skin burns quickly at high temperature, in less than 5 seconds at 60C (140F), but much slower at 53C (127F) it takes a full minute for a second degree burn. Older people and children often receive serious scalds due to disabilities or slow reaction times.[12] In the United States and elsewhere it is common practice to put a tempering valve on the outlet of the water heater. The result of mixing hot and cold water via a tempering valve is referred to as "tempered water".[13]

A tempering valve mixes enough cold water with the hot water from the heater to keep the outgoing water temperature fixed at a more moderate temperature, often set to 50C (122F). Without a tempering valve, reduction of the water heater's setpoint temperature is the most direct way to reduce scalding. However, for sanitation, hot water is needed at a temperature that can cause scalding. This may be accomplished by using a supplemental heater in an appliance that requires hotter water. Most residential dishwashing machines, for example, include an internal electric heating element for increasing the water temperature above that provided by a domestic water heater.

Two conflicting safety issues affect water heater temperaturethe risk of scalding from excessively hot water greater than 55C (131F), and the risk of incubating bacteria colonies, particularly Legionella, in water that is not hot enough to kill them. Both risks are potentially life-threatening and are balanced by setting the water heater's thermostat to 55C (131F). The European Guidelines for Control and Prevention of Travel Associated Legionnaires Disease recommend that hot water should be stored at 60C (140F) and distributed so that a temperature of at least 50C (122F) and preferably 55C (131F) is achieved within one minute at points of use.[14]

If there is a dishwasher without a booster heater, it may require a water temperature within a range of 5760C (135140F) for optimum cleaning,[15] but tempering valves set to no more than 55C (131F) can be applied to faucets to avoid scalding. Tank temperatures above 60C (140F) may produce limescale deposits, which could later harbor bacteria, in the water tank. Higher temperatures may also increase etching of glassware in the dishwasher.

Tank thermostats are not a reliable guide to the internal temperature of the tank. Gas-fired water tanks may have no temperature calibration shown. An electric thermostat shows the temperature at the elevation of the thermostat, but water lower in the tank can be considerably cooler. An outlet thermometer is a better indication of water temperature.[16]

In the renewable energy industry (solar and heat pumps, in particular) the conflict between daily thermal Legionella control and high temperatures, which may drop system performance, is subject to heated debate. In a paper seeking a green exemption from normal Legionellosis safety standards, Europe's top CEN solar thermal technical committee TC 312 asserts that a 50% fall in performance would occur if solar water heating systems were heated to the base daily. However some solar simulator analysis work using Polysun 5 suggests that an 11% energy penalty is a more likely figure. Whatever the context, both energy efficiency and scalding safety requirements push in the direction of considerably lower water temperatures than the legionella pasteurization temperature of around 60C (140F).[citation needed]

However, legionella can be safely and easily controlled with good design and engineering protocols. For instance raising the temperature of water heaters once a day or even once every few days to 55C (131F) at the coldest part of the water heater for 30 minutes effectively controls legionella. In all cases and in particular energy efficient applications, Legionnaires' disease is more often than not the result of engineering design issues that do not take into consideration the impact of stratification or low flow.[citation needed]

It is also possible to control Legionella risks by chemical treatment of the water. This technique allows lower water temperatures to be maintained in the pipework without the associated Legionella risk. The benefit of lower pipe temperatures is that the heat loss rate is reduced and thus the energy consumption is reduced.

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When you rely on Roto-Rooter for water heater repair or water heater replacement, you can expect professional service from a skilled plumber. Roto-Rooter offers 24-hour emergency water heater service, so you will have hot water again as quickly as possiblethe same day in most cases.

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Conventional Water HeaterConventional water heaters store water in a tank and are available in a variety of gallon capacities. Electric or gas energy is required to maintain the water at a set temperature until a faucet is turned on and water is pulled through the pipe. A conventional electric or gas water heater should last about 11 years. Newer conventional water heaters are more energy efficient than older models. A high-efficiency model can reduce water heating bills by about 7 percent.

Tankless Water HeaterA tankless water heater is generally considered more energy efficient because they heat water only as it is needed. When the tap is turned on, the heater goes to work and supplies continuous hot water. A tankless water heater often requires less space and can hang on a wall, but may require larger gas lines, special venting or additional electric circuits that add to the upfront costs. However, a tankless water heater has a life expectancy of 15-20 years and may reduce water heating bills by as much as 30 percent.

Hybrid Heat Pump Water HeaterA hybrid water heater combines conventional tank storage with a heat pump that extracts heat from the air and uses it to help heat the water. A hybrid water heater uses existing water and electrical connections, and can reduce water heating costs by almost 60 percent.

Solar Water Heater SystemsSolar water heater systems use the suns energy to generate hot water for your home. Solar water heaters are either passive or active. Passive solar water heating systems are typically less expensive than active systems, but they're usually not as efficient. However, passive systems can be more reliable and may last longer. Active solar water heating systems utilize pumps and controls to circulate water into the home. Most solar water heating systems require a well insulated storage tank and a backup system for cloudy days and high water demand.

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