If you want a thing done well, do it yourself. Napoleon Bonaparte

A week ago my hot water heater died without warning. Essentially, I was forced to live up to my homeowners responsibility of restoring life and the universe back to normal!

At first, my plan was simply to repair the old gas water heater in high hopes of a cheap fix, but you know the cliche

If you want to make the Water Heater Godz laugh. tell them about your plans of a cheap repair!

Still, you never know!

Whenever you are troubleshooting, its always better to start with the cheapest and easiest repairs first. That way you dont make the mistake of buying a brand new water heater when you couldve fixed the old one for ten bucks!

Ya know wat Im sayin

In this scenario, the cheapest and easiest fix was to take apart the burner assembly, clean it and attempt to relight the pilot. Unfortunately, that didnt work so I did a little more research.

All of the main symptoms (pilot lights, but wont stay lit after release of the pilot button) were pointing to either the thermocouple or gas control valve, otherwise known as the thermostat.

Since the free fix didnt work I moved on to the next troubleshooting idea replace the Thermocouple!!! Another let down. the cheap $10 replacement of the thermocouple was also a no go.

At this point everything is now pointing to the gas control valve. Time to drain the tank and move on to the next item on the ol checklist.

Upon further inspection and draining of the water heater, we discovered that the tank had 7 years of sediment build up. I think thats what in all probability killed the gas control valve. The water draining out of the tank was also a slight rustic color, which could indicate that the water heater has some internal deterioration as well.

In retrospect, I probably couldve fixed the old unit by installing a new gas control valve. Yet, how long would that last me before the tank rusted through and started leaking all over my garage?

After some thoughtful considerations on whether to order a new gas control valve for $135 + $42 expedited shipping, I decided it would be best to simply replace the whole unit and actually perform the recommended maintenance going forward.

I want HOT WATER!!

Technically, I was replacing a gas water heater using the existing set up and not installing one from scratch. That would be slightly more complicated!

By the way, I should be clear that I knew absolutely nothing about hot water heaters prior to this ones demise. You would be surprised how helpful Youtube can be on the subject of installing a gas water heater.

Plus, I do have some mechanical ability from working on my own cars, and helping my Father with the many household projects hes done over the years.

This is my way of saying that I had a certain degree of confidence that I could do this install on my own.

By doing my own installation I think I saved $400-700 dollars or more in installation costs.

I also learned a lot about water heaters, how they work and how to trouble shoot, remove and install them. The biggest downside was having to spend a week without hot water while trying to get it installed correctly and up to code.

All in all, I realize why plumbers charge so much to install these heavy beasts. In fact, after looking over the numbers Ive been thinking that maybe we should go into the plumbing business!!!!

I can see it now

Were NOW open for business!!! um, not really!

On second thought, installing hot water heaters daily could wear a brother out and Im not so sure Id enjoy doing this for a living. Not that theres anything intrinsically wrong with it. I definitely have a deeper respect for Mario and Luigi!

Most importantly, the final lesson is that when the hot water is gone someones gotta bring it back! Now you can either pay someone to do it for you or YOU can do it yourself. Yet in the end it is a job that has to be done. The question you need to ask yourself is.

Now for those still unsure if its worth it, weve included a play-by-play recap of the entire process and time estimations that were spent on the job.

Now be advised that this is NOT a how to article; I am just documenting the basic steps I went through for purely informational purposes. And to help you decide whether you want to tackle such a project.

Even though I saved a decent chunk of cash, I paid for it with the opportunity cost for all you inspiring economists out there! In other words, even though you might save several hundred dollars you have to ask yourself what your time is worth?

If you were to put those same hours into running your business or other money-making pursuit than the value of your time may well exceed the money youd save. In this case, it would be more advantageous to simply call a plumber.

On the other hand, if you would have just sat around watching T.V. or playing video games maybe you should get yo a$$ off da couch and install that water heater yourself!!!

Personally, I took this on as a homeowner challenge and a learning experience. Im glad I saved some money on the install, but as you will see, I definitely paid for it in time and labor putting in the new one.

On the bright side, I learned quite a few things that will help me in the future should another unit ever fail or need installed. And next time, I am certain I could do it in about half of the time. In my opinion, it was definitely worth all of the trouble!

My final thought to support doing it yourself is

Wednesday (1 hour) Took my last hot shower unknowingly or I would have savored the moment! Discovered that the hot water heater died that evening Did a little research online

Thursday (1-3 hours) Researched how to repair gas hot water heaters online Took apart the old units burner assembly Cleaned it and put it back together Tried to light the pilot and burner didnt work Pilot lights, but fails to stay lit and burner never fires Cause = either bad thermocouple or gas control valve

Friday (2-3 hours) More research on Google and Youtube Went to Lowes and bought an $8 Thermocouple Installed new thermocouple onto burner assembly Same scenario Pilot lights, but fails to stay lit and burner never fires Must be gas control valve

Saturday (2-4 hours) Tried one last ditch effort for a cheap fix Took the burner assembly out again and cleaned everything really well Still no dice, so now I know for certain it is the gas control valve Researched cost of new gas control valve.. identical part = $192 w/ fast shipping Got to take a hot shower at my lady friends place!

Sunday (3-5 hours) Drained old unit using water hose (or thought I did) Started to remove gas control valve and heard gurgling and hissing sounds Finished draining unit using buckets Could see sediment coming out of tank with water Water was a slight rusty/dirty color with sediment build up Determined that the gas control valve failure was caused by excessive sediment build up Based on research, age of water heater, cost of part, etc. decided to buy a whole new unit Started pricing new units online

This is what failed on the old water heater

Monday (6-8 hours) Took half a day off of work to install Went to Home depot, Sears and Lowes checking out new water heaters Bought a $420 Whirlpool Gas Water Heater from Lowes and supplies Cleaned garage and prepared area for removal and installation process Removed the old unit and set to the side Lifted and set the new unit into place Started thinking about how to vent and install the new unit using the preexisting set up Went to back to Lowes for venting pipes and more supplies

Tuesday (8-12 hours) Took a full day off of work to install Fully read installation instructions and watched installation videos online Researched how to vent this type of water heater Went to Carolina Supply to get parts for gas line connections Talked to some plumbers there and learned some new things about venting Went to Lowes and bought some more supplies Filled up Thermal Expansion tank Realized that I bought the wrong type of gas water heater needed a direct vent water heater not standard atmospheric Cried incessantly for one hour. Lol j/k Called around to see where I could buy a direct vent water heater. Went back to Carolina Supply and bought a Rheem 50 gallon direct vent gas water heater Took the wrong unit back down and set to the side Lifted and placed the new direct vent water heater into place Connected the cold water line and thermal expansion tank Worked on installing the venting system

Wednesday (3-5 hours) Went to Lowes again for more supplies Finished installing the venting system Connected the cold water line Connected the how water line Connected the gas pipe and union to the gas control valve Tested for water leaks, had one but fixed Tested for gas leaks using soapy bubbles none discovered Filled tank with water and fired the pilot and burner Discovered another small water leak on the hot water connection Temporarily fixed the leak Took a HOT SHOWER!!!!!!!

Heres the finished installation

By the way, Im still not finished. Got to fix the small leak, silicone the outside vent terminal, and will probably take the gas pipe connections apart and use pipe joint compound to seal them better.

Also have to box up the wrong water heater and unneeded supplies and take them back to Lowes for a refund.

Well, if youve read this far you are either really bored at work OR considering installing a gas water heater yourself!

Either way, you are now armed with some insights on whether you should attempt this job or outsource it to someone else. Hopefully, this was helpful to you in some way.

Thanks for reading our hot water heater adventure story!

And always remember what Bruce Lee has to say on the subject;

You must be shapeless, formless, like water. When you pour water in a cup, it becomes the cup. When you pour water in a bottle, it becomes the bottle. When you pour water in a teapot, it becomes the teapot. Water can drip and it can crash. Become like water my friend.

Until next time, keep the hot water flowing

Brandon

P.S. I want to send a big shot out and thank you to my brother, Cory for helping me with the installation process. No way, I could of done this without his help. Definitely a two man job!

Here is the original post:
Is it Worth Installing a Gas Water Heater Yourself ...

1Based on comparison of high efficiency condensing natural gas tankless model against 50-gallon tank type model with like fuel type. Savings for liquid propane models may be higher. 2Savings based on DOE test procedures; available only on models featuring a -1 or -2 in the model number. 3Available on all Rheem Tankless Water Heaters, excluding the Rheem High Efficiency Tankless Water Heater with Built-In Recirculation Pump. 4Savings based on included components and compatibility; Installation conditions vary; Consult the Rheem Use and Care Manual, the Rheem Gas Piping Facts brochure (TK-GPF-12), the National Fuel Gas Code (NFPA 54, ANSI Z223.1), and any other local gas codes when installing a Rheem Tankless Water Heater. 5EcoNet is built into certain Rheem Tankless Water Heaters and available as an accessory for models produced after 1/2010; WiFi broadband Internet connection required. Download the FREE EcoNet App from the App Store for Apple iPhone, iPad and iPod users, and Google Play for Android users to set up your EcoNet WiFi Kit; notifications are dependent upon external providers (phone carrier, cell phone, email, and installation factors, such as walls, location, etc.); Rheem cannot guarantee notifications will be received by the intended recipient; Leak Detection feature not available on outdoor models. 6According to a 2015 survey of tankless contractors by Hanover Research on behalf of Rheem. 7Water leak detection and auto shut-off features available with indoor models only.

Apple and the Apple logo are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.Google Play and the Google Play logo are trademarks of Google LLC.

View post:
Tankless Water Heaters - rheem.com

Building jurisdictions in nearly all cities and counties require a permit to replace an existing water heater. Codes have changed, so the installation of a new water heater should meet current codes for safety purposes.

If a water heater is installed improperly there are many things that can go wrong. A few examples:

Its important to remember that there have been code changes and other requirements that may apply to the replacement of an existing water heater.

Generally, a permit for replacing a water heater is very simple to obtain. Usually a quick trip to the local building department is all that is required, plus a few dollars for the cost of the permit itself. Many building departments have a handout on installing a replacement water heater and are happy to answer any questions that you may have.

There are a few instances when two or more permits may be required.

Electrical permit

If there are situations where you have to make electrical modifications or changes, then an electrical permit may be required. For instance, if the breaker and wire size is too small to carry the electrical load of the new water heater, then a permit may be required to make the changes.

Plumbing permit

Should you need to add, extend, or modify any existing water lines to install the new water heater, then you should get a plumbing permit in nearly all building jurisdictions.

If a gas line has to be added or relocated, then a plumbing permit may be required for the modifications or changes; note that just one permit may cover both the water heater and plumbing modifications.

The short answer is yes, most of the time. If there needs to be electrical modifications, many building jurisdictions will allow you to do the modifications yourself if its your own home, but a few jurisdictions may require a license electrician to do the work. Occasionally, there may be other exceptions or requirements, however, a call to the local building department will normally provide the answers you need.

Generally a homeowner can replace an existing water heater themselves, but should obtain a permit. The safest way to know what your local building department requires is a quick call or visit to the department. Many building departments will have a handout on their installation requirements which can be very helpful; also they may have drawings or other helpful information online as well.

View original post here:
Do You Need A Permit To Install Or Replace An Existing Water ...

Replacing anelectric water heater requires a permit in most areas, whether the installation is performed by a professional or by a homeowner. As part of the permit process, the work will be reviewed by an inspector to ensure that both the electrical and plumbing connections are done properly and safely, and that the installation complies with the local code requirements. Here we will look at the basic electrical requirements only, as they apply to a standard tank-style electric water heater, not an on-demand (tankless) water heater.If you're planning to replace an existing electric hot water heater, now is the time to make sure the original water heater wiring is up to snuff.

Before you examine or touch the water heater wiring or electrical connections, turn off the powerto the circuit that supplies the water heater. In most cases, the circuit is served by a 30-amp, double-pole circuit breaker. Switch off the appropriate breaker in the breaker box, then use anelectrical voltage testerto make sure that the circuit is off by testing at the water heater.

The electrical wire connections for a water heater are made at a built-in junction box on the top of the water heater tank. This is enclosed by a cover plate, which you can remove to inspect the wire connections inside. Typically, the wire conductors leading to the heater are enclosed in flexible metal conduit or are made with flexible metal cable, such as metal-clad (MC) cable. This flexibility provides a little wiggle room, making it easier to replace the water heater, and it is a required feature in many earthquake areas.

With the cover plate removed, you can test for power simply by holding a non-contact voltage tester next to the wire connections; if the circuit has been properly shut off, the tester will not light up.

Electric water heaters require a 240-volt dedicated circuit, which serves only the water heater and no other appliances or devices. The circuit wiring typically includes a 30-amp double-pole breaker and 10-2 non-metallic (NM) or MC cable. At the water heater, the black circuit wire connects to the black wire lead on the water heater, and the white circuit wire connects to the white wire lead on the water heater.

The white circuit wire should be wrapped with black or red electrical tape near the connection at both ends of the circuit (at the water heater and at the breaker box), to indicate that it is a "hot" wire, not a neutral wire. Unlike standard 120-volt circuits, a 240-volt circuit carries live current in both the black and white wires. The circuit ground wire connects to the green ground screw on the water heater or to the water heater's ground lead, as applicable.

Although you won't need to deal with the thermostats or heating elements during a simple replacement of an electric water heater, it's helpful to know that electric water heaters also include inner wiring that runs from the wire connection box down along the side of the tank to two different heating elements, each controlled by its own thermostat. The heating elements, and the thermostats that control them, are contained inside access panels mounted on the side of the water heater tank. Each pair of thermostats and heating elements has screw terminals that are connected to wire leads in the water heater. You will not need to deal with these connections unless you are replacing a thermostat or heating element on an existing water heater.

Some building authorities require a bonding wire, or bonding jumper, between the hot water and cold water pipes serving the water heater. It's important to note that the bonding jumper is not required by the National Electrical Code nor the Uniform Plumbing Code, but it may be required by your local building authority.

The bonding jumper may be required to ensure a reliable bond in a metal water piping system. Some experts believe a bonding jumper helps water heaters last longer by reducing corrosion in the tank caused by electrolysis. Another function of the bonding wire is to maintain the electrical grounding pathway on the water pipes. Without the jumper, there is a break between the hot water and cold water pipes in the system, which potentially disrupts the continuous grounding pathway of the electrical system.

In any case, if you need a bonding wire, it usually consists of a 6 AWG bare copper wire connected toa ground clamp on each of the hot and cold water pipes. Eachclampshould be on a smooth part of the pipe and not too close to any fittings; the pressure of the clamp may stress soldered joints and valve connections. When replacing a water heater, it's a simple matter of making sure the jumper connections are in place after you finish installing the new water heater.

The rest is here:
Electric Water Heater Wiring - The Spruce

A standard tank water heater can stress your plumbing pipes by the normal thermal expansion that happens during the heating process. A safety device known as a water heater expansion tank (sometimes called a thermal expansion tank) can help minimize the risk of pressure damage to the plumbing system. (This is normally not a problem on modern on-demand, tankless water heaters--only tank-style heaters are subject to this problem.)

The water heater expansion tank serves as an overflow receptacle by absorbing excess water volume created by the tank water heater whenheating water, as well as absorbing fluctuations in the incoming water supply pressure. Since water expands when it is heated due to thermal expansion, the water heater creates extra water volume every time it heats water. It's estimated, for example, that the cold water in a standard 50-gallon water heater expands to 52 gallons when heated to 120 F. This extra water volume can createexcess pressure in the plumbing system, and if the increased pressure is enough it may, over time, cause damage to the water heater, plumbing fixtures and the water pipes themselves.

In an open system where expanding water can push back into the city water supply, there is rarely any problem. However, many homes have a closed water supply system, which is a water system equipped with a one-way valve such as a backflow valve, check valve or pressure-reducing valve. In a closed system, this extra water pressure from thermal expansion can cause the most damage because the extra water pressure cannot push back into the city water supply and therefore has nowhere to go.

Most cities require that residential closed plumbing systems be equipped with expansion tanks.If you have some form of backflow preventer installed on the main water line, you may be required by law to also have a water heater expansion tank installed. Check the local building code or call the building and safety department to find out.

If you do not have a one-way valve installed on the main water line and therefore do not have a closed water system, you may still benefit from a water heater expansion tank. Expansion tanks are normally installed above the water heater on the cold water line before it enters the water heater;however, they can really be installed anywhere on the cold water line prior to entry into the water heater.Having an expansion tank helps prevent dripping faucets and running toilets by keeping the extra built-up pressure in the system from reaching the fixtures and prematurely damaging them.

Water heater expansion tank prices start at around $40and range up to nearly $200; pricing is largely dependent on the size of the tank. For most residential installations with 40- or 50-gallon water heaters, a simple 2-gallon tank is fine. The tank is quite easy to install with a normal 3/4 threaded connection. A tee fitting will have to be installed above the water heater if one is not there already.

If you are hiring a plumber to have a water heater installed, its a good idea to get a price for the installation of an expansion tankat the same time. It may not be much more than you are already paying if it is done at the same time. If you are installing a water heater yourself, consider installing an expansion tank even if it is not required, since the benefits far outweigh the work and cost involved.

Read more here:
Water Heater Expansion Tank Information - thespruce.com

How to Wire an Electric Water Heater Circuit: We are installing the wiring for an electric water heater circuit and we need to make sure we are using the right wire size.

Wiring a Water HeaterElectrical Question: We are installing the wiring for an electric water heater circuit and we need to make sure we are using the right wire size.

My questions about my Water Heater Project are:

This will be inspected, and we are working under a permit.

Thank you!

This electrical wiring question came from: Cheri, a Homeowner from Wichita, Kansas.

Daves Reply:Thanks for your electrical wiring question Cheri.

Application: Wiring a 240Volt Electric Water Heater.Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced Best installed by a Licensed Electrical Contractor. Work in electrical panels is not recommended for homeowners, non-experienced individuals or non-electricians.Tools Required: Basic Electricians Pouch Hand Tools, electric drill, auger bits and extension cord as needed depending on the scope of the project.Estimated Time: Depends on personal level experience, ability to work with tools and install 240 volt electrical circuit wiring.Precaution: Identify the main circuit of the panel, turn it OFF and Tag it with a Note before working with the wiring or installing the 240 volt wiring and circuit breaker.Notice: Installing an additional 240 volt circuit should be done according to local and national electrical codes with a permit and be inspected.

The following is an example of installing an electrical circuit for a 240 volt electric water heater in a home:

Electrical Wiring Codes

Here's How to Do It:Wire It Right with the help of my Illustrated Wiring BookGreat for any Home Wiring Project.

Read the original post:
Installing a Electric Water Heater Circuit - Ask the Electrician

Fast Water Heater Company performs installations as safely as possible to protect you and your family. Due to various injuries and accidents related to water heaters over the last ten years, most cities and counties have adopted either the 2006, 2009 or 2012 Uniform Plumbing Code (or in the case of California, the California Plumbing Code).

When we perform your installation, we will inspect your water heater and ensure it is up to date on all relevant safety codes.

Also, on the back of your invoice, you will find a list of all of the state codes that are relevant for your installation.

Some examples of common water heater codes include:

An expansion tank is required if a plumbing system is closed, which means that the back-flow that normally runs between the house and the main water supply, is blocked. However, when water is heated, it starts to expand, which causes a rise in water pressure.

The increased pressure must go somewhere. If there is nowhere for the pressure to go, it places extra stress and strain on your water heater and your homes plumbing system. Increased pressure will shorten the life of your water heater. However, expansion tanks provide relief from this excess water pressure and protect your home.

A water pressure PSI test will determine if you need an expansion tank or not.

In all our service locations, we install water heaters with earthquake straps to ensure your safety in the event of a natural disaster. Because the West Coast is in earthquake zones, all installations include straps on the top- and bottom-third of the water heater.

If your water pressure is above 80 PSI, its recommended to install a pressure regulating valve. As population density increases, water pressure goes up as well. However, high water pressure can damage your plumbing and fixtures, including your hot water heater. This can cause a premature crack in the glass lining of the water heater. Pressure regulating valves will prevent unnecessary stress on your plumbing system.

Its generally recommended, and required, to install a drip pan with a drain line beneath your hot water heater tank. Especially if you water heater is in your home or basement, a leak could cause lots of water damage. A pan and drain eliminate this possibility.

Installing a dedicated water shutoff on your water heater will allow you to turn off water to your heater, but not to your entire home. This way, if you ever need to service your water heater, you wont be inconvenienced with having to turn off the water to the rest of your house.

In some areas, the P&T (pressure and temperature relief) valve is required to be piped to the exterior. The P&T valve goes off when your hot water temperature exceeds 210 degrees Fahrenheit or 150 PSI. Some areas will allow you to pipe the P&T within 6 of a garage floor. The advantage of this is that if the P&T valve is going off, it usually means your water heater has a problem and its good to know about it. The disadvantage is that when the P&T does go off, the water comes out at very high temperature and high pressure. It is dangerous to allow children, for example, to play around the P&T valve. Due to accidents, some areas require the valve to be piped to the exterior.

In addition to placement in a certain area, the CO emissions of a water heater require it be properly vented. This will prevent any CO from entering your home and living areas. The vents must be made of a proper material and keep specific clearance from combustible materials.

Gas water heaters emit carbon monoxide (CO) when they run. 10,000 people die in the U.S. every year from CO poisoning so its important the water heater is placed in approved location. For example, in some areas, water heaters are not allowed to be installed in closets, unless they are only used for the water heater.

Codes require us to place a sediment trap on the gas line into the water heater as close to the inlet as possible. This is to prevent moisture and debris from entering the firing chamber of the hot water heater.

For electric tanks in unheated spaces, the tank must be placed on an incompressible, insulated surface with a minimum thermal resistance of R-10. This bottom board is to help prevent heat loss from the bottom of an electric water heater and can increase energy efficiency.

Contact us for more information about water heater codes in your jurisdiction!

This company is great. I have had two water heaters installed and one follow up warranty service which I think went very well. Both of the service professionals I have met and everyone I have spoken to is also very professional. I can recommend this company with complete confidence.- Suzan H. via YelpWe needed a replacement (and fast!). FAST Water Heater Co. was here in 1 hour, provided an estimate, told me exactly what it would take to comply with current code, and completed the job very quickly and professionally. No surprises...now I can take a shower! I would recommend FAST Water Heater Co. without hesitation.- Jeff H. via GoogleMatt Smith did an outstanding custom water heater/thermal expansion tank installation job under a stairwell. He was able to fabricate the installation so that I still was able to gain access to the storage space behind the water heater. I give him 5+ stars.- Tom J. via FacebookFast is the operative word here. I called to have my water heater replaced and they were at my house within 1 hour. There were some challenges with replacing my tank and Dan confidently suggested my options. In and out in a couple of hours with zero inconvenience! Dan was super personable and very trustworthy! - Anonymous via SuperPages

More here:
Common Codes - Fast Water Heater Company

Before you dive into the specific brand review, we highly recommend you to read our elaborateTankless Water Heater Reviewsand Tankless Water Heater Installation Cost Guide in advance. There are several crucial stepsyou need to takebefore you even start to think about the brand.

In addition, weve prepared guides for other gas tankless water heaters useful for comparing brands. They include:

Rinnai was formed in 1920 in Japan. The company began making water heaters in 1964 and opened a US office in 1974. The brands water heaters are made in Japan, but in 2017, Rinnai announced that it will build a manufacturing plant in the US., the first manufacturer of tankless gas water heaters to do so. Rinnai is currently the best-selling tankless water heater brand in North America.

Rinnais residential water heatersare all gas-fired units with enough capacity to provide hot water for an entire household (i.e., whole-house units). Here are the current Rinnai heater models.

Important Note on Max. GPM:This column represents the maximum gallons per minute flow rate the heater can produce. Maximum GPM flow isachievable only when the incoming water is quite warm. The colder the incoming water is, the longer it must be heated to reach the thermostat setting on the tankless water heater, so the lower the GPM flow rate will be. In tankless water heater specifications, youll see information such as Flow rate @ 70F temp rise is 4.3 GPM. Thats from a unit with Max. GPM of 7.5 GPM and means that if the temperature of the incoming water must be raised by 70 degrees Fahrenheit to reach the thermostat setpoint, then only 4.3 gallons per minute of hot water can be expected. For more information on this important topic, seethe related sectionin our Tankless Water Heater Buying Guide.

Additional notes:

There are several Rinnai water heater features not covered in the table that will help you decide which unit best suits your requirements.

The consumer ratings for Rinnai are among the very best. The brand is considered reliable, though about 15% of Rinnai units have a serious mechanical issue in the first decade.

Rinnai makes both condensing and non-condensing models, in contrast to Navien that makes only condensing tankless water heaters. The SE+ RUR is one of a few tankless models with a built-in recirculating pump. More Rinnai models come ready for WiFi than the number of models from any other brand.

How much does a Rinnai water heater cost?

Here are prices for the unit only. Installation costs follow.

Rinnai Models

Max GPM

Unit Cost Only

$2,000-$2,165

$1,350-$1,585

$1,350-$1,585

$975-$1,165

$975-$1,165

$1,175-1450

When shopping for Rinnai products online, youll find that some sellers dont list the series. For example, instead of Rinnai SE+ RUR, the listing will be Rinnai RUR.

Your tankless water heater installation cost will depend on several factors including:

Depending on the factors that apply, expect Rinnai tankless water heater installation cost estimates to be between $600 and $1,450 plus accessories. If youd like to receive no-cost, no-obligation estimates from top installers in your area, use our Free Local Quote tool. The installers are licensed and insured, and they know theyre competing for your work.

See the original post:
Rinnai Gas Tankless Water Heater Reviews, Installation Cost ...

Overview

If you have some basic plumbing experience, you can replace a water heater yourself and save $200 to $400 in plumbers fees. Well show you how to replace a conventional natural gas water heater. The procedure is the same for a propane heater. If you choose a power vented gas model, all the water and gas connections are the same as we show, but the venting steps are different. For more, search for power-vented water heater above. Replacing an electric water heater is a little easier. All the water connections are the same and you dont have to deal with gas piping or venting. For details on situations different from the one we show here (such as electric models, plastic water lines or copper gas lines) search for replace water heater above.

If you have lots of plumbing experience, you might be able to complete this project in half a day. But we recommend you start in the morning so you have plenty of time to get the job done and not leave your family without hot water overnight. Youll need a helper to carry the old unit out and the new one in. Check with your trash hauler or recycling center to find out how to dispose of the old heater.

A new water heater will cost from $250 to $500, depending on the size, efficiency and warranty. The materials youll need for the installation depend on your situation and local codes.

Even if youve worked with plumbing and gas lines in the past, play it safe and contact your local department of inspections. Get a permit (if required), and go over your installation plans with an inspector.

Shut off the gas by turning the handle a quarter turn. In the off position, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

Disconnect the gas at the union fitting. Place the larger wrench on the nut and hold the unions collar with another wrench. Start with the wrenches a quarter turn apart.

Cut the cold water line above the old gate valve to make room for a new ball valve. Cut the hot water line at the same height.

To get started, turn off the gas at the valve near the water heater (Photo 1).

If the isolation valve above your water heater is a gate valve (Photo 3), we recommend that you replace it with a ball valve (Photo 4). Be sure to choose a fullport valve. Gate valves often leak or wont close tightly. To replace the valve, youll have to shut off the water at the main valve (usually near the meter). That means your whole house will be without water until you install the new valve. If you already have a ball valve or if you choose to leave the old gate valve in place, you can simply shut it off. That way the rest of the house will have cold water while you work (toilets will still work!).

With the water and gas off, drain the water heater. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route it to a floor drain and open the drain valve. To allow air into the hot water lines and speed up the draining process, go to the highest faucet in the house and turn on the hot side only (on single-handle faucets, push the lever all the way to the left).

If your valve doesnt look like this one, see Old gas valves can leak.

Disconnect the gas line at the union (Photo 2). Then disassemble the threaded tee and drip leg and remove the nipple from the water heater gas control valve. Dont throw them awayyoull need them for the new water heater. If your gas line is copper or a flexible supply line, just unscrew the nut.

To disassemble the vent piping, remove the sheet metal screws. Wear gloves; the ends of the metal piping are sharp. You can reuse the vent pipes if theyre in good shape. But if you find even slight holes, cracks or corrosion, toss them into the trash. New pipe is inexpensive and leaks can allow deadly carbon monoxide to build up in your home.

Next, cut the copper water lines with a tubing cutter (Photo 3). If you have copper corrugated water lines, simply disconnect the nuts at the water heater. If you have galvanized steel pipes, disconnect unions just as we did with the gas union shown in Photo 2. Also unscrew the blow tube from the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve. You may be able to reuse it on the new water heater.

At this point, the old heater should have drained enough so it can be moved off to the side (with a helper). If the heater isnt draining fast enough, sediment may be clogging the valve. Allow it to drain as long as possible and then move the heater outside so you can remove the drain valve from the tank.

Reconnect the water. Install new valves first so you can turn on the water to the rest of the house. Then install nipples, followed by threaded fittings and stubs of pipe. Hold the final section in place to mark the length.

Make the final connections with slip couplers. Be sure the coupler doesnt slide down as you heat it.

Set the drain pan into place with the opening facing the floor drain. Get someone to help you lift and set the heater in the pan. If youre replacing the isolation valve, solder on the new ball valve next.

Screw dielectric nipples into the new water heater. These plastic-lined nipples reduce corrosion and increase water heater life. Some water heaters come with dielectric nipples already installed (buy a set if yours doesnt have them). Be sure to coat the threads with pipe thread sealant or wrap with Teflon tape. Next, solder female threaded copper pipe fittings to short lengths of copper tubing and set them aside to cool. Tighten the cooled fittings onto the nipples. Then add short sections of pipe below the valves (Photo 4) and make the final connections with slip couplers (Photo 5). You must use slip couplersstandard stopped couplers wont work. For tips on soldering copper pipe, search for solder above.

Thread a blow tube onto the T&P valve. If the old blow tube is too short, you can use 3/4-in. galvanized steel pipe or copper pipe (along with a male threaded fitting). If you use galvanized pipe, cut off the threads on the bottom to prevent someone from capping off the blow tube if the T&P valve leaks.

Connect the vent pipe to the hood with sheet metal screws. Never use a reducer, even if the hoods opening is smaller than the vent pipe.

Snap the new draft hood onto the water heater and secure it with sheet metal screws. Check the installation manual for the recommended diameter vent pipe for your new heater. If the recommended vent pipe diameter is larger than the vent hood opening, dont install a reducer. Measure a straight section of new galvanized vent pipe to rise as high as possible before you install the adjustable elbow (the higher the rise, the better the draft). On any horizontal sections of vent, make sure the pipe slopes down toward the water heater 1/4 in. per foot of pipe. Bend out small sections of the pipe and attach it directly to the vent hood with screws (Photo 6). Then continue installing new vent pipe sections and connect to the flue. Most plumbing codes require a minimum of three screws for each vent pipe joint. For tips on cutting metal venting, search sheet metal above.

Reconnect the gas. Hold back the control valve to avoid damaging it. Then screw the drip leg into the tee.

Measure between the union and the tee and add 1 in. to determine the correct nipple length.

Test for leaks by brushing soapy water onto every connection. If you see bubbles, tighten or reconnect the joint.

Apply gas-rated pipe thread sealant or tape (dont use standard white Teflon tape) to the gas nipple and thread it into the new gas control valve. Tighten the nipple using two pipe wrenches (Photo 7). Assemble the tee and drip leg using the same two-wrench technique.

If the old section of pipe below the union no longer fits, youll need to measure for a new nipple (Photo 8). Make sure you assemble and tighten the gas union before you measure the length for the intermediate nipple. Add 3/4 in. to 1 in. to this measurement and buy a new nipple. When the gas connections are complete, turn on the gas and check for leaks (Photo 9). You can buy leak detector in a convenient spray bottle ($3) or mix your own solution (one part dish detergent, two parts water).

Open the water valves and an upstairs faucet and fill the tank. Leave the faucet open until water flows out. Then shut it off and check the new water connections for leaks. Open the gas valve and light the pilot light following the manufacturers instructions. Youre in for a pleasant surprise with your new water heatermanufacturers have done away with the old match-lit pilot system. Instead of igniting the pilot with a match or lighter, you just push a button.

When the burner fires up, test for backdrafting, which can allow deadly carbon monoxide into your home. Close all doors and windows and turn on kitchen and bath exhaust fans. When the burner has been running for at least one minute, move an incense stick around the draft hood. The smoke should be drawn up into the vent. If not, the exhaust may be entering your home. Turn off the gas and call in a professional plumber.

Finally, set the thermostat to a safe temperature. (For help, search for water heater temperature above.) In about two hours, youll have enough hot water for a well-deserved long shower.

The grease-pack valves found in older homes tend to leak as they age. Even if your local code doesnt require replacement, we recommend you install a ball-type gas valve instead ($10). Replacement isnt difficult; you just unscrew the old valve and screw on the new one. But you will have to turn off the main gas valve and later relight pilot lights. If you dont know how to handle these tasks, call in a professional plumber and expect to pay $80 to $150.

Youll find lots of accessories for your new water heater at the home center. Some are required by local codes; others are just good ideas. Plumbing codes vary, so check with your local inspector.

1. Gas shutoff valveAll codes require a gas valve near the water heater. If you have a grease-pack valve, see Old Gas Valves Can Leak section above.

2. Earthquake strapsThese straps prevent a water heater from tipping over and are required in earthquake-prone areas. $12 per pair.

3. Flexible gas lineA flexible gas line can withstand movement and is usually required in earthquake-prone areas. Theyre easier to connect than steel pipe, but theyre not allowed everywhere, so check with your inspector. $15.

4. Drip legAny dust or grit in the gas line falls into this short section of pipe before it can reach the water heaters control valve. The required length of the drip leg varies.

5. Isolation valveAll codes require a valve on the cold water line. Though not required by codes, a second valve on the hot line makes future water heater replacement easier. $10 each.

6. Flexible water linesThese flexible lines withstand movement and are required in earthquake zones. But you may want to use them just because theyre easy to install. $20 per pair.

7. Overflow panMost plumbing codes require a pan and drain pipe in locations where a leak can cause damage. But installing a drain pan is a good idea for any location. $18.

8. Expansion tankSome codes require an expansion tank to absorb the pressure created when heated water expands. $35.

9. Blow tubeThe T&P valve releases pressure, and a blow tube directs the scalding hot water toward the floor. The required distance between the blow tube and floor is usually 18 in. or less.

New Jersey building codes require a bonding wire be installed between the cold/hot pipes and the gas line. The majority of local codes dont require the bonding wires but they do serve a purpose. According to the experts we spoke with, bonding wires may actually extend the life of the water heater by diverting electrolysis from the anode rod and tankeven on electric models. So whether or not your local code calls for the bonding wire, you may want to install one to get more life out of your water heater. This little project is brain-dead simple. It only costs about $10 and takes about 10 minutes.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Visit link:
Water Heater Installation - familyhandyman.com

How much does it cost to install a water heater?

A water heater is an important aspect of a home that lasts 10-15 years, not only for the comfort and amenities, but also because it is a major source for energy use. There are many options available when choosing a water heater, and every aspect affects the price. On average, a whole-house tank water heater for a 1,500 square foot home for 3-4 people costs $600-$800.

Below, well consider some of the options for a water heater, the pros and cons, and how it affects the price.

Tankless (or instant or on-demand) systems are often considered to be much more energy efficient because they only heat water as it is needed. However, many homeowners and consumer groups argue that tankless systems arent as great as they are often billed to be, especially since comparing the efficiency of the two styles is near impossible. Tankless heaters also tend to be much more expensive ($600 installed for a tank system and $2,500 installed for a tankless system) and can be more difficult to service. The energy savings average $70-$80 a year, but it still takes decades to make up the difference in the initial cost. Tankless heaters arent good for bigger families or for people who like to use water for multiple purposes at the same time, like washing dishes while doing the laundry.

Tank water heaters have a larger reserve of hot water, meaning you can use it for multiple tasks at once, like taking a shower and washing dishes. They are much less expensive to install and maintain, although they do end up costing more each year in energy costs. Tank water heaters also tend to provide hot water more quickly than tankless systems. On average, a 30 gallon heater is good for a household of 1-2 people, a 40 gallon heater is good for 2-3 people, and a 50 gallon heater is good for 3-4 people. For a household of five or more people, an 80-gallon electric system or a 50-gallon natural gas or propane1 system should be sufficient.

Whole house systems require more power and a larger space to operate. They also tend to be more expensive than single point systems, although that cost is used to provide hot water to the entire house. A 1,500 square foot home system averages $600-$800.

Historically, single point systems were for tankless systems, although there are more options now. Single point systems tend to be more efficient because the water doesnt have to travel as far before reaching its destination, giving it a smaller chance of heating unnecessary water and water losing its heat as it travels through long pipes. Single point systems are smaller and less expensive, as low as $200-$400.

There is always a risk of a water heater leaking, which makes its location even more important. A water heater should be placed somewhere it wont cause major damage if it leaks, such as a storage room or garage. Water heaters need to be accessible for maintenance and should have 12-18 inches clearance on all sides.

Plumbers typically charge $45-$65 per hour and can typically install a water heater in a day (6-8 labor hours), for a total labor cost of $270-$520. Water heaters that are difficult to access or that are in tight enclosures can take an extra 2-3 hours ($90-$195) to install.

Homes with solar water heaters may need a backup hot water system for when the solar system cant get enough sunlight to work. On average, a standard backup system averages $200-$300.

Flat plate solar collectors collect more heat and are a good option for larger heating projects, such as heating swimming pools. They start at around $7,000.

Energy-efficient water heaters come in a variety of types and styles. On average, a water heater with an energy-efficient label costs 10%-20% more.

See the original post here:
Cost to Install a Water Heater - Estimates and Prices at Fixr