Part one of this series was titled, Fall Yard Care; Lawn & Leaves. Still within the realm of nature, this second article will focus on fall care of your trees and shrubs. Trees and shrubs in our yards and outdoor rooms are landscape specimens to be shown off and admired. Dont forget to protect these lovely focal points in your yardscapes by doing a bit of autumn maintenance.

Autumn is just about the best time to plant or transplant a shrub or tree. This is the time of year when a tree or shrub naturally stops expending energy to produce leaves, flowers or fruit, and transfers that energy to the development of its root system. Considering that when you first plant (or transplant) any living thing, it needs to get its feet firmly established in the ground before it starts showing off, the timing of a new planting in fall is perfect. Your new tree or shrub will also do better in autumn because it wont have the stress of scorching summer heat and soil that constantly dries out. Just one caveat. Dont forget to use a nice thick layer of shredded leaves or mulch around the base (but not touching the bark) of your fall transplants, especially if you live in an area where the ground freezes and thaws throughout the winter. The expansion and contraction of the soil that occurs with freezing and thawing of the ground will play havoc with new roots that are trying to take hold, and in severe cases could even kill your specimen

You definitely want to trim your trees and shrubs in the autumn. What you dont want to do is prune them.

Pruning your trees and shrubs in the fall is discouraged for a couple of reasons. First, in the fall, many shrubs have already formed the buds that will flower in the spring. If you prune them now, youll destroy the shrubs ability to show off any color next year. In addition, pruning now will delay the hardening off process that some trees and shrubs must go through before winter, making them susceptible to various cold weather injuries and desiccation.

To trim your trees and shrubs properly in the fall, you want to thin them, not shape them. Deadwood is pretty easy to spot at this time of year, and should be removed by cutting down close to the branch or trunk from which it begins. If you cant tell whether a branch or twig is dead, just scratch it a bit. If its green (wick) inside, its alive. If its grey (wood), then, well . . . you get it. You might also want to remove branches that cross and rub against one another you only need to remove one, (the least healthy) not both of these. Dont forget those suckers! These persistent pests are aptly named, as they suck the nutrients from healthy limbs. Be sure to cut them down to where they start.

As long as the ground is not frozen, you still need to provide your trees and shrubs with water. In the early fall, water your trees every couple of weeks, and keep in mind that new plantings need more frequent watering. Unless your shrubs are newly planted or wilting, they can go without the extra watering autumn rains will take care of them.

By mid-October, you can stop watering your trees and shrubs so that they can harden off by winter. When all the leaves have fallen from the deciduous trees, give all your trees and shrubs one last deep watering. Set your hose at the base of the tree and run the water slowly just a trickle for several hours. Pay particular attention to your evergreens at this time. They dont go dormant during the winter like deciduous trees do, making the extra water particularly important for them. Keep in mind that if you have an unexpected mid-winter thaw, you should deep water your evergreens again during that time.

Whether you should fertilize your trees and shrubs in the autumn will depend on several factors. Well established trees and shrubs dont tend to need much fertilization. However if they are in any kind of mulch bed they can usually do with a few nutrients by fall. The decomposition of the mulch will have been depleting them all spring and summer long. If you really want to replace nutrients for your mature specimens in the fall, your autumn leaves can be shredded and spread underneath them. Their decomposition will release nutrients that your plants need.

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Fall Yard Care; Trees and Shrubs - My Yard Rocks ...

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BARTENDER: for local golf club. April-October. $15-plus/hour. Call Harry, 631-749-0416.

BARTENDER: Mature and experienced. Call Lennys, 631-722-8589.

BUS SERVICE POSITION: F/T. Sunrise Coach Lines, located in Greenport, is looking for a qualified self-starting person to service and clean our buses. CDL license preferred but will train the right person. Prior experience a plus. Union position with benefits. Please inquire, 631-477-1201. Ask for Jim or Karen.

CASE MANAGER: F/T, temporary through December 2015. For our bridges to family program located in Hauppauge, NY. BA in social work or related field and 1-year related experience required. MSW or related field and related experience preferred. Valid NYS drivers license required. Little Flower Children and Family Services in Wading River, N.Y. Send resume, wadingriver-jobs@lfchild.org or fax 631-929-6203 EOE.

CASE MANAGER SUPERVISOR: F/T, temporary through December 2015. For our bridges to family program located in Hauppauge, NY. BA in social work or related field and 5 years related experience required. MSW or related field and related experience preferred. Valid NYS drivers license required. Little Flower Children and Family Services in Wading River, N.Y. Send resume, wadingriver-jobs@lfchild.org or fax 631-929-6203. EOE

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With Dirr's Hardy Trees and Shrubs and Dirr's Trees and Shrubs for Warm Climates, Michael Dirr set the gold standard for horticultural reference. This season, Timber Press is proud to publish his seminal work, Dirr's Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs, the most comprehensive visual reference on this important subject. A combination of Dirr's bestselling books under one cover, adding new plants, new photographs, plus all new commentary in Dirr's signature style, it is the bible of woody plants.

From majestic evergreens to delicate vines and flowering shrubs, Dirr features thousands of plants and all the essential details for identification, planting, and care, plus full-color photographs showing a tree's habit in winter, distinctive bark patterns, fall color, and more. In a class by itself for its quality of information, the best researched recommendations for hardiness in the industry, beautiful photography, and Dirr's own preeminence as a master plantsman, Dirr's Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs is a critical addition to any garden library.

Paperback

$70.40 Prime

Hardcover

$94.27 Prime

Allan M. Armitage

Hardcover

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Dirr's Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs: Michael A. Dirr ...

Looking for work? Check out the Times/Review classified section.

Looking for work, or know someone who is?

Times/Review classifieds offers local companies a place to advertise their job openings each week, and this week 50 positions are availablefrom plumbers, marine technicians to drivers.

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BUS SERVICE POSITION: F/T. Sunrise Coach Lines, located in Greenport, is looking for a qualified self-starting person to service and clean our buses. CDL license preferred but will train the right person. Prior experience a plus. Union position with benefits. Please inquire, 631-477-1201. Ask for Jim or Karen.

CALL CENTER REPRESENTATIVE POSITIONS: F/T, P/T, various shifts available. Must be able to work a Saturday or Sunday every week. For corporate headquarters located in Southold. Spanish proficiency a plus. For complete details about the position and to apply, visit

CASE MANAGER: F/T, temporary through December 2015. For our bridges to family program located in Hauppauge, NY. BA in social work or related field and 1-year related experience required. MSW or related field and related experience preferred. Valid NYS drivers license required. Little Flower Children and Family Services in Wading River, NY. Send resume, wadingriver-jobs@lfchild.org or fax 631-929-6203 EOE.

CASE MANAGER SUPERVISOR: F/T, temporary through December 2015. For our bridges to family program located in Hauppauge, NY. BA in social work or related field and 5 years related experience required. MSW or related field and related experience preferred. Valid NYS drivers license required. Little Flower Children and Family Services in Wading River, NY. Send resume, wadingriver-jobs@lfchild.org or fax 631-929-6203. EOE

CHILDCARE WORKERS: F/T, P/ T and per diem needed to supervise the daily living activities and ensure the safety of children in our residential treatment center. Related experience preferred and valid NYS drivers license required. Little Flower Children and Family Services in Wading River, N.Y. Send resume, wadingriver-jobs@lfchild.org or fax 631-929-6203. EOE.

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MASTER GARDENER: Mescal Bean and combating nematodes

Q. I remember seeing a really nice flowering tree called Mescal Bean when I visited the UCR Botanic Garden. What can you tell me about it and where can I get one?

A. Mescal Bean, Sophora secundiflora, may be considered a large shrub or small tree. It grows slowly and may ultimately reach 25 feet in height. It tends to be evergreen in our climate and has small divided leaves and a graceful appearance. Mescal Bean blooms in early spring with six-inch clusters of violet-colored flowers that have a sweet fragrance that reminds me of grape juice. Following flowering, seed pods may form that contain red beans. These beans are poisonous, so it is recommended that the pods be removed before they mature.

Mescal Bean, sometimes called Texas Mountain Laurel, tolerates hot locations and poor soil as long as it has good drainage. Although it is frequently sold in native plant nurseries and offered as a low water-use plant, it does require some water. Because it is very slow-growing, you might want to consider purchasing the largest size you can afford. Most good nurseries can order one for you if they dont have them in stock.

Q. I read your article in the OC Register regarding nematodes and tomatoes. Is it true that planting marigolds with the tomatoes can control nematodes in the soil?

A. Sorry, but that wont work. Many years ago, research conducted at the University of Georgia, and confirmed at other universities, too, indicated that rootknot nematodes may be controlled by growing French marigolds as a dense, solid ground cover for at least 90 days. No other plants can be allowed to grow among the marigolds or the treatment will be ineffective, as the nematodes will take refuge in them. After the marigolds are removed, other plants may be grown in the area. The soil should remain free of nematodes for about one year. They found the most effective cultivars were Goldie, Petite Gold, Petite Harmony, and Tangerine. Other cultivars found to be effective are Nemagold, Petite Blanc, Queen Sophia and Tangerine. Some of these cultivars are available locally as seed and others can be found in popular seed catalogs or online. You also may find other varieties that individual seed companies have labeled as being effective against nematodes. Be careful to avoid the signet marigolds, Tagates signata or T. tenuifolia as these particular marigolds are actually hosts of root knot marigolds.

The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program recommends keeping your plants as healthy as possible by growing them in well-amended and well-irrigated soil. This will not reduce the number of nematodes in the soil but strong, healthy plants are better able to withstand the damage caused by root knot nematodes. They have a number of other suggestions including fallowing and crop rotation, soil solarization, and managing planting dates. For those gardeners who would like to read more about nematodes and the tactics you can use to combat them, go to ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html.

Ottillia Toots Bier has been a UC Cooperative Extension master gardener since 1980. Send comments and questions to features@pe.com.

Contact the writer: features@pe.com

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MASTER GARDENER: Mescal Bean and combating nematodes

A properly planted tree or shrub will be more tolerant of adverse conditions and require much less management than one planted incorrectly. Planting technique impacts water quality as it minimizes water, fertilizer and pesticide use. When making decisions on planting techniques, one should consider how the plant was grown in the nursery, the plant's drainage requirements, the soil type and drainage characteristics, and the availability of irrigation water. The plant should be specifically appropriate to the site, or the site should be amended to specifically fit the plant.

Horticulture researchers have estimated that 75% of the roots may be lost when digging field-grown nursery stock. Cultural practices by the nurseryman, such as root pruning, irrigation, fertilization, root-ball configuration, and digging techniques, influence the percentage of harvested roots. Water stress, due to removal of most of the water-absorbing roots, is the primary cause of transplant failure. Most water absorption capability within a transplanted root-ball results from very small diameter roots. These fragile roots are the first to suffer from excess water loss in newly transplanted landscape plants.

Landscape contractors and home gardeners can choose from a wide variety of plant material in North Carolina. Plants are grown by various production methods, e.g. bare-root, balled and burlapped, fabric container and plastic container. Some large landscape trees are mechanically dug with a tree-spade and placed in wire baskets. Each of these harvesting and growing techniques is acceptable, but requires a specific planting and management technique.

Advantages of planting bare-root plants are mostly economical. Plants are less expensive to produce because of the ease of harvesting, storing and shipping. Many species respond well to bare-root harvesting. A greater portion and longer roots are retained after harvesting and roots are easily inspected at planting time. Damaged roots can be trimmed and girdling roots can be removed before planting. Bare-root plants should be planted while they are completely dormant. Landscape-sized bare-root trees usually require staking.

Larger landscape plants are traditionally harvested as "balled and burlapped" (B&B). A major advantage of B&B plants is that soil types can be matched, thereby reducing any interface problems that might inhibit water movement between the rootball and surrounding soil of the landscape site. There is an acceptable, standardized formula for sizing rootballs, which is the American Standard for Nursery Stock. The main disadvantage of B&B material is that a large portion of the roots may be severed at harvest time. The amount of roots harvested depends upon soil type, irrigation practices and root pruning during the production period. Plants moved B&B are subject to seasonal constraints. The most favorable seasons are when transpiration demand is low and root generation potential is high, such as in fall, winter and early spring. With the much-reduced root system, water is a critical element in the successful transplanting of B&B material.

The advantage of using plants grown in containers is that 100% of the roots are in the container. Thus, the plant goes through limited transplant shock if given adequate follow-up care. Container-grown plants can be planted into the landscape year-round. Plants produced in containers, in a soilless medium (usually bark and sand), are much lighter than B&B material. This is very helpful to home gardeners who may not have large equipment to handle the heavy plants.

The main disadvantage of container-grown plants is the possibility of deformed roots. "Rootbound" plants have roots circling inside the container. The entangled roots are a physical barrier to future root growth and development. If this condition is not corrected at planting time, the plant may experience slow growth and establishment because of the girdled roots. Some form of root mass disturbance is recommended before planting.

A relatively new production system is the use of fabric containers or bags. Plants are grown in the bags, placed in the ground, with a soil backfill. The advantage to this production technique is purported to be a means of harvesting a greater number of roots while using field production practices. The fabric must be removed at transplanting time. This can be somewhat of a problem when the roots have become attached to the walls of the bag, or if roots have escaped through the fabric.

Smaller plants live better and establish faster than large plants and are more economical. Many consumers, on the other hand, want the "instant" landscape look. Demand for large, landscape-size trees has certainly increased over the last decade. With large mechanical digging equipment, 6- to 8-inch diameter trees can be moved. Large diameter trees are often transplanted for instantaneous effect, but post-transplant stress and costs increase with the size of the tree.

Correct planting technique begins with the loading of the plant at the nursery or garden center. Home gardeners and landscapers should be very careful with plant material. Always protect the roots, stems and foliage during transport. The plant tops should be shielded from winds. Never pick up a plant by the trunk. Trees are particularly vulnerable to damage if growth has started. In the spring the bark is easily injured. B&B trees are very susceptible to this type injury because of the weight of the rootball. Lift plants from underneath the rootball with the appropriate equipment. Container-grown plants should be handled by the container and never by the tops of the plant. If plants must be held or stored on the landscape site, it is best to place them in a location protected from the wind and sun. Do not let the roots freeze or dry out during this time. If the delay in planting is more then a few days, one should "heel in" B&B material by covering the roots with bark or some other mulch. Supplemental irrigation is critical for the nursery stock during the growing season.

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Planting Techniques for Trees and Shrubs | NC State University

Trees, shrubs, and vines are essential elements in your landscape, adding structure, texture, and color as well as establishing focal points. Fortunately, taking care of trees, shrubs, and vines can be easy, but it does require knowing the basics, and learning insider tips will help your plants reach their full potential. All the care advice you need is here. Start with what you buy: Trees and shrubs can be bare-root, balled-and-burlapped, or container-grown. All of them will work well in a landscape, but each has different requirements. Here's what you need to know to make sure all three types will get off to a great start in your landscape. Once your trees, shrubs, and vines are established, maintaining them is key to ensuring their healthy growth. Part of that maintenance includes pruning -- but what do you prune and when? We have advice on pruning, as well as a maintenance calendar. Not sure what tool works for pruning small branches or large limbs? Turn to our guide. If you have an established tree or shrub in your landscape that's been neglected, you can give it new life with careful pruning.

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Caring for Trees & Shrubs - Better Homes and Gardens ...

Charlie's Plant to Ponder: Pothos

Also called devil's ivy and hunter's robe, pothos is a high-climbing, evergreen vine that develops leaves up to 2 feet long as it gains height. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum), a native of the Solomon Islands, is tender to cold but still spreads rapidly when grown in the landscape. This common houseplant is propagated by cuttings.

Numerous cold-sensitive species of Eugenia are grown for their fruit, including pitomba, grumichima, Brazil cherry, Australian beach cherry and the invasive Surinam cherry. The only hardy Eugenia commonly cultivated for its fruit is cherry of the Rio Grande, a plant that withstands temperatures into the upper teens with minimal damage. This is a handsome shrub or small tree that grows 12 to 15 feet tall in full or part-day sun.

The juicy and tasty fruit of cherry of the Rio Grande is about an inch long and dark red and is eye-catching against the plant's glossy, dark-green foliage. Those fruit, eaten fresh and used for preserves, appear in late spring and early summer following attractive white blossoms. This slow-growing species thrives on organically enriched, mulched sites that are irrigated during dry spells. Cherry of the Rio Grande is difficult to propagate from cuttings and air layers, so it's usually propagated by seeds. Typically it takes 5 to 10 years from seed sowing for plants to bear fruit. Plants are available online and sometimes from local nurseries. This plant can be found listed under Eugenia cerasiflora, involucrata and aggregata.

TURF VIRUS NEARBY

Sugarcane mosaic virus, a disease that infects various grasses, including kinds of St. Augustine turf, appeared in Palm Beach County in the 1960s. But in 2013, and again in 2014, sugarcane mosaic virus showed up in Pinellas County and devastated numerous lawns, especially those with the Floratam' variety of St. Augustine turfgrass. All varieties of St. Augustine may be vulnerable, but Palmetto' and Bitter Blue' are considered somewhat resistant.

No treatment is available for stricken lawns, which display intermittent yellow streaks on grass blades, eventually leading to necrosis (death). The virus seems to become noticeable in early autumn and then progress throughout the cool season.

Machinery such as mowers and string trimmers can spread the disease from site to site, so it may eventually move into neighboring counties. Homeowners who want more information should visit http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pp313.

SAVING VARIEGATION

This is a good time of year to remove any solid-green growth that has emerged on variegated plants. Variegated varieties of most plants tend to slowly revert to all-green foliage that, if left intact, eventually dominates the plant and looks unsightly. One of the most popular landscape plants in Florida the flax lily often begins to produce solid-green offsets after a few years. In this case, sever the non-variegated clumps and dig them out, roots and all.

Link:
Weekend Plantings: Turf Virus Nearby, Saving Variegation, Plants for Wet Sites

Extension > Garden > Yard and Garden > Planting and transplanting trees and shrubs

Jeffrey H. Gillman, Nursery Management Specialist, Department of Horticultural Science Gary R. Johnson, Urban Forester, Department of Forest Resources

Trees and Shrubs should be selected for a site based on the ability of the plant to tolerate the soil, light, climate, and residential conditions present at that location. Information on the ability of various shrubs to tolerate environmental conditions in Minnesota can be found in the following guides published by University of Minnesota Extension:

The conditions of the planting site are as important as the plant. Soil type and drainage, available water and sunlight, exposure to drying winds, and other factors must be considered. Attempting to match the requirements of the plant to the site increases the survivability, performance, and longevity of the plant selected.

The first step in assessing the condition of the planting site is to examine the soil. Is it sandy and well drained? Is it moist with some organic material? Is it heavy clay and, therefore, wet and perhaps compacted? Construction practices such as cutting and filling, installation of underground utilities, and backfilling against foundations can create great diversity in soil structure. This variability can change drastically with depth and between planting locations on the same property-investigate each planting site.

Soil texture and drainage are closely related. Sandy soils usually are very well drained, have large pore spaces, and poor water-holding capabilities. They are usually associated with dry conditions. Conversely, clayey soils have much smaller pore spaces, are poorly drained, and can suffocate plant roots. The pore spaces in soil are very important to plant growth because the oxygen that occupies them is essential to healthy roots. A tree planted in poorly drained soil will be slow to establish, lack vigor, and often will slowly die.

Because plant roots require both moisture and oxygen for growth, soil drainage should be checked before planting. A poorly drained soil, high in moisture but low in oxygen, prevents both proper root development and growth of beneficial soil micro-organisms that are responsible for decomposing organic matter and releasing plant nutrients.

To test for soil drainage, dig a hole 18 inches deep, fill it with water, and let it stand overnight. If the water has not drained by morning, there is a drainage problem. (Do not test the drainage in this manner after heavy rainfall or before the ground has thawed in the spring.)

If soil drainage is inadequate, species that are tolerant of poorly drained soils may be planted, or soil drainage may be improved. This can be done in two ways. If a hard pan is present (a compacted, impermeable layer of soil) with an underlying layer of well-drained soil, a hole can be dug down to the permeable layer to provide drainage for the planting hole (Figure 1). If the soil is poorly drained and there is no well-drained layer below, a tile system can be laid (Figure 2). This, however, is expensive and requires the assistance of a professional for proper design. Simply adding gravel to the bottom of the planting hole will further decrease oxygen availability to the root system.

Compaction of the soil by vehicles or people can reduce pore space and restrict water infiltration, as well as cause physical damage to roots of existing trees. In compacted soil, oxygen is depleted, carbon dioxide accumulates, and root penetration is reduced. This is detrimental to root growth. Aerating the soil will help correct the problem.

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Planting and transplanting trees and shrubs : Yard and ...

Seasonal Care for Trees and Shrubs in Northern U.S. Climates

Welcome to the world of tree care! In the left hand column of the image below, you will find links to the many maintenance duties you can do to help keep your landscape trees healthy and safe. The accompanying chart highlights the most favorable timing for the listed tree care activities. Below this chart you can find links to other complete chart versions that are larger and easier to read.

Overall, periods of weather extremes (e.g., drought or high winds) should be avoided when planting, transplanting, fertilizing and pruning. The information available in this website provides a place to start for tree and shrub care, is not absolute for every situation, and is not intended to endorse any products or services.

Have fun!

Authored by Rebecca Koetter, Gary R. Johnson, and Dave Hanson: University of Minnesota Funded in part by USDA Forest Service: Northeastern Area Chart designed by Andrew Rose: http://www.handeye.us

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Seasonal Care for Trees and Shrubs in Northern U.S. Climates