WHAT ABOUT "DORMANT OIL" SPRAYS?

We are often asked about dormant oil sprays. They are still routinely applied by many companies and can be beneficial in some cases. We have largely abandoned the use of oil sprays for a number of reasons:

1. Dormant oil sprays are promoted as a less toxic alternative to the use of insecticides and miticides. In fact, they are less likely to harm beneficial insects and if applied properly, with correct timing and technique can help to control scale insects and possibly cool season mites. They may also be effective for some adelgids. Our experience has been that even with good equipment and good technique, control has been limited and disappointing to us and our customers.

2. Oils work by "smothering" the insects or mites. In order for this to happen, a continuous layer of oil must be applied to all the plant tissues and must persist for long enough to kill the pest. The optimal conditions for this to happen include a specific temperature range at the time of application, correct humidity conditions and the timing has to be right to contact the pest during a vulnerable stage of its life cycle.

3. Oils can cause damage to some evergreens and some tissues and young foliage on deciduous trees. In many cases, this damage is worse than the damage of the pest being treated.

4. Oils can damage surfaces of houses, lawn furniture, vehicles, swing sets, etc. and it is difficult to keep the spray off of those surfaces when spraying even smaller trees.

5. It is virtually impossible to get adequate coverage of large trees for oils to work, even with excellent equipment and experienced applicators.

We have found that we can achieve excellent control of soft scale insects on very large trees with trunk injection of insecticides. There is long term control, no adverse effects on beneficial insects, and no environmental toxicity.

Mites can be treated with specific miticides. Adelgids can be treated with systemic, soil injected or drenched insecticides that have very low toxicity and do not damage surfaces or healthy foliage.

Excerpt from:
Tree and Shrub Spraying

By Lucy Fry

Crapemyrtles are unquestionably the most popular ornamental trees in the Southern landscape, offering something for every season colorful flowers in summer, brilliant foliage in autumn and interesting brown exfoliating bark in winter.

And they cope with Mother Natures heat indexes of 110 and drought conditions by producing huge fragrant panicles of crinkled white, pink, red and lavender flowers.

A drive around town reveals how much Fort Smith loves its crape myrtles. They are everywhere in parks, along highways, in small yards and large estate landscapes, on campuses and in front of businesses.

But lurking behind this beautiful summer display is a threat its called crape myrtle bark scale. It begins as tiny white or gray felt-like encrustations on small twigs and even large trunks often near pruning wounds or in branch crotches on older wood. Then it gives off sticky honeydew and finally turns into a black sooty mold on the bark. (Although it is sometimes mistaken for a severe aphid problem, it is not.)

This insect arrived in Arkansas via Texas and last year invaded the river valley with a vengeance that many crape myrtle growers remember all too well.

Several neighbors and friends have already spotted it this year and are considering topping their trees so that they can reach and clean the nasty little scale. This sounded so desperate that an imminent email to Plant Doctor Sherrie Smith (her real title is University of Arkansas plant diagnostician) was necessary for any new recommendations or remedies for controlling this pest.

As expected, she replied immediately: We have not added anything new. If the grower uses one of the systemic insecticides recommended, there is no need to top the crape myrtle.

Here are the UA Cooperative Extension Services recommendations:

It does not appear that crape myrtle bark scale will be easy to control, though soil-applied neo-nicotinoids do provide significant suppression. Our current best suggestions for control include:

For heavily infested plants, wash the trunk and reachable limbs with a soft brush and mild solution of dishwashing soap. This will remove many of the female scales and egg masses and make insecticide control more effective. Also, washing will remove much of the black mold that builds up on the bark on infested trees.

Horticultural oil has not yet been shown to be effective against this insect; however, a winter application of dormant oil to the bark and crotches of the plants where scales shelter may be beneficial. Be sure to use sufficient volume to allow for penetration behind loose bark and into cracks and crevices. Winter is an especially good time to treat for scales because a higher (winter) application rate can be used without damaging the plant. Thorough coverage of the tree is especially important when treating with oil.

Application of systemic insecticides as a drench applied to the root zone has shown the most promise in tests to date. Imidacloprid (Merit or Bayer Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control), thiomethoxam (Meridian) and dinotefuran (Greenlight Tree and Shrub Insect Control with Safari) have shown best control when applied between May and July. When drenching the soil with a systemic insecticide, allow several weeks for the product to be distributed throughout the plant. Additionally, acetamiprid and clothianidin, also neonicotinoids, have demonstrated good control.

Lady beetles should be preserved, as the twice-stabbed lady beetle is an efficient predator of this scale.

Twice-stabbed lady beetles (black with two red spots on their backs) are a gardeners friend thanks to their ability to hunt and consume plant-harming bugs, primarily scales, at an astonishing rate.

If fact, your garden will benefit from plants that attract friendly beetles and ladybugs that consume aphids with a vengeance. These plants include dill, cilantro, wild carrot, angelica, cosmos, yarrow, geranium and (most gardeners will hesitate before using this one) dandelions.

So, to all you desperate crape myrtle fans: Leave your chainsaw in the garage, pull on your gloves, scrub and treat your trees and pray for an invasion of the twice-stabbed lady beetle.

Next week, the topic will be: saving the pollinators one stamp or one plant at a time.

Lucy Fry of Fort Smith is a level 4 Master Gardener and writes the area Master Gardener newsletter. Her column, Gardening for the Record, runs weekly in the Times Record. Send questions to gardeningfortherecord@gmail.com.

Read more:
Gardening for the Record: Protect crape myrtles; bark scale is back in town - Times Record

Cercis uncertainty

In the last four to five days my Judas tree has developed a patch of browning, dying leaves, mysteriously on one side only, with no sign of an obvious cause. Rosemary Whitt, via email

The picture you sent showed amature Judas tree (Cercis siliquastrum), one of whose two stems seems, as you fear, to be dying. This sudden collapse is possibly due to verticillium wilt to which this cercis is susceptible. Various wilts are responsible for all sorts of tree and shrub deaths: cotinus is notoriously prone and I have a friend whose mighty Eleagnus Quicksilver went this way, a branch at a time.

It is hard to be sure about wilts. If you chop off an affected branch, there may be a telltale brown/black stain running trough the wood which would indeed indicate that it is the cause of the problem, but if this is not obvious it is tempting to think that there may be something else wrong that will miraculously right itself. You could try to stay ahead of the game by removing the dying half of the tree. You might just save it, while leaving it a rather strange shape from which it might recover in time. I presume you have already taken a good look at the tree at ground level, to see if it one of its trunks has somehow been injured realistically, the only other cause of the problem.

I am planning to plant an ornamental birch in my garden in the autumn and have been looking around at the many different ways other people support their trees. What do you recommend? Anita Oliver, via email

Researchers have found that young tree trunks will thicken up more quickly where they are allowed to bend slightly in the wind, so depending on the size of your tree and on how sheltered your garden is, it may not need staking at all. However, if necessary, a short, slanting stake is recommended for container-grown trees, while a short straight one is suitable for those that are planted bare-rooted. The reason is logical: it would be easy to damage the roots of a container-grown tree by banging a stake right through the middle of the root ball. However, a stake driven in at an angle after the tree is planted avoids this risk. The top of a slanting stake should face into the wind, and a straight stake should be on the windward side, too, with 2ft (60cm) of the stake below ground and about the same above.

Tree ties are often wrongly fitted. You can see exactly how this bit of kit is used on YouTube look at Sue Beesleys demonstration How to fit a tree tie. Ties should be checked and adjusted annually. After three years the tree should have made enough new roots to become stable, and stakes can then be removed.

Read the rest here:
Helen Yemm: plum problems, wilting Judas, support for trees - Telegraph.co.uk

LAMBERT, Mont. In the days before European settlers, the prairie turnip dotted the landscape, a tumbleweed jewel planted by the harvesting activities of Plains tribes, whose mothers taught their children that the five-fingered leaves would point the way to another plant.

On the surface, that seems like its just a nice little story told to occupy children, but over time and observation Kelly Kindscher, with the University of Kansas, came to realize that the advice holds true. The leaves do tend to line up with the prevailing winds, and since the plant becomes a tumbleweed, its future offspring are bound to follow a trail of wind to new homes.

Kindscher led an ethno-botany seminar as part of the Montana Native Plant Societys annual meeting held this year in Lambert, talking about how native plants were used by the Plains tribes both for food and medicine, and sharing folklore he has spent a lifetime collecting. He has written two books about the topic, one on edible prairie plants and the other on medicinal prairie plants.

The prairie turnip was among the stars of edible plants on the prairie, but today its numbers have dramatically declined. Thats not just because of shrinking habitat, though. Kindscher believes that the harvesting process of the Plains tribes actually helped the plant reproduce.

When Plains tribes took the roots, they would set the flowers with seeds back into the hole theyd dug. The following year that pre-dug site would yield new prairie turnips in greater abundance than if theyd not been harvested.

These roots were such an important food source that buffalo hunts were planned around where the women would be able to gather the plants.

Today they are hardly known other than in dry history texts, but they are perhaps worthy of more notice and use. Being a member of the bean family, they can fix nitrogen, and could serve as a valuable companion in the garden. They have been observed to manage growth even in rugged, rocky soil that is difficult to dig with a pickaxe, and so might be useful in cover crop mixes to help lighten soils while at the same time adding nitrogen. The roots can be eaten, so they are a fun lesson for children, too.

To dig these roots, Native Americans used sharpened sticks with points hardened by fire or augmented with deer or elk tines. While it was generally the women who did this, it was obviously not an easy job.

Native American names for the prairie turnip ranged from the Osage dogoe, which means potato, to the Blackfoot name mas or elk food, and the Dakota tipsinna, derived from their name for wild rice, which was a staple in their diet until the prairie turnip replaced it.

The plant is perennial, with a deep tap root that likes undisturbed prairies, hay meadows and well-managed pastures, but it can grow in even dry and rocky, often limestone, soils yet still provide an edible root, if harvested in the right time frame.

The roots should be harvested in late May to July, just after the flowers blossom. But dont wait too long after that. The leaves and stem soon become dry and brittle, breaking off into a tumbleweed that carries the seeds away from the root, thus hiding it.

The prairie turnip was described in the Lewis and Clark journals as being esteemed in all seasons, and gathered for winter storage. Its roots were peeled and cut into shreds to dry in the sun. Braids of prairie turnips were valuable. They could be traded by the Dakota for shelled corn. About four braids to a burden basket of shelled corn, which meanwhile was itself worth a handsome Buffalo robe.

Another particularly important plant of the time was the chokecherry, often a principal ingredient of pemmican, and today North Dakotas state fruit. The latter is all thanks to a group of Williston students, who put together research on the importance of this fruit to both the Plains Indians and settlers, and convinced the Legislature to adopt it as the official fruit.

Williston, meanwhile, is gearing up for the annual Chokecherry Festival that celebrates not just the ingenuity and creativity of present-day children, but of the ingenuity of yesteryear as well, which found a way to use this bitter fruit in important and palatable ways.

This fruit was so valued that the Dakota named the month of July, in which the cherries ripen, Chanpa-sapa-wi, which translates to black cherry moon.

To make pemmican, they took the whole berries, seeds and all, and crushed them on a stone, then dried them in the sun. The heat treatment helped to rid the crushed berries of traces of cyanide that came from the seeds.

Choice cuts of buffalo meanwhile were dried and then heat-treated over a fire to make them soft and oily. This was then pounded on a stone until fine.

Marrow was added to the pounded, dried meat along with the crushed chokecherries, a food that even Europeans highly valued. Given that it was dried meat and fruit coated with lard to keep out air, it was a food that would last years without spoiling.

Sometimes, leaves from wild mints were added to flavor the pemmican mixture, or other berries like serviceberry could be used, but chokecherry was most common, and did not taste astringent once processed in this manner.

Another important and highly distinctive berry of the plains was the buffaloberry, which with the help of prairie turnips could be made into a pleasing pudding. This is a small tree with bluish leaves and grey limbs bearing bright orange fruits and be careful sharp stickers.

George Catlin, who painted many scenes of the region during the early settler days, mentions this shrubby tree favorably in letters he wrote, suggesting the berries would be good for making wine, and extolling their appearance in a landscape.

This shrub, which may be said to be the most beautiful ornament that decks out the wild prairies, forms a striking contrast to the rest of the foliage, from the blue appearance of its leaves, by which it can be distinguished for miles in the distance, he wrote. The fruit which it produces in such incredible profusion, hanging in clusters to every limb and to every twig is about the size of ordinary currants and not unlike the in colour and even in flavor; being exceedingly acid, and almost unpalatable until they are bitten by the frost of Autumn, when they are sweetened, and their flavour delicious.

To gather these berries, hides were placed on the ground under the tree and it was beaten with sticks after the first frost a perfect way to avoid the stickers. The berries could be placed in water to separate them from brush and leaves.

Read more:
Plants of the past: Native species topic of seminar - Williston Daily Herald

Many people think trees and shrubs take care of themselves. After all, theyre heartier than grass, right?

Its important to remember, though, that the suburbs do not provide the same kind of environment as a natural forest. Just like your lawn, trees and shrubs need the right combination of nutrients in order to thrive. Our specialty injections and root feeding programs ensure that your trees and ornamental plants are healthy and strong, so you can enjoy their presence for years without having to worry about replacing them. Read more about our tree and shrub care services below.

You can nourish and protect your trees and shrubs for a fraction of their replacement cost with Spring-Greens tree and shrub care programs and services.

Spring-Green utilizes a deep root feeding method of a pressurized soil injection to deliver important nutrients into the plants root zone.

Tree trunk injections can allow your Spring-Green team to provide nutrients that are essential for your tree care, or to fight certain types of leaf diseases or insects.

Or

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Tree & Shrub Care - Spring Green

Starting trees from seed can be one of the most rewarding gardening activities, but tree seeds often require a little more preparation than many common flower or vegetable seeds.

In most cases, there are two ways to start tree seeds: The natural way, which often includes sowing the seeds in the fall, or through forced or assisted germination, which is initially done indoors.

Seeds have been sprouting and trees have been growing for an awfully long time without any help from humans. The natural way to germinate tree seeds, then, is to allow nature to take its course. Most seeds, when sown in the fall without any pre-treatment, will begin to germinate the following spring. Be sure to sow the seeds at the recommended depth. If the seeds are planted too deep, this could delay or inhibit the spring germination process. With some seed varieties you may see germination spread over two or three years with some seeds germinating in the first spring and others taking longer to break dormancy and germinate.

It is important to remember that many species originated in cooler climates where seeds drop to the ground and are covered by leaves in the fall. Over the winter, the seeds remain bedded in this cool moisture environment. As the warm spring weather arrives the seeds then begin the germination process. For many types of seeds, the embryo inside the seeds is immature and unable to germinate (this is called dormancy) until it matures in this manner. The delay in the germination process is vital to the survival of many tree species. In a natural forest, if seeds germinated immediately upon falling to the ground in late summer or fall, the tender seedlings would die off during the cold winter.

Although natural germination is an acceptable way to start most tree seeds, sometimes better and more consistent results can be achieved through forced or assisted germination. Basically, it means using various techniques to mimic the role nature plays in causing tree seeds to germinate.

There are several techniques that may be involved to force the germination of any given tree seed. Please carefully read the recommended steps listed on each individual seed package.

Many seeds require one or more treatment steps to stimulate the germination process. The three steps are: 1) Scarification, 2) Cold Stratification, and 3) Warm Stratification. Keep in mind that not all seeds require all of these steps. In fact some seeds do not require any pre-treatment whatsoever.

Scarification is the process of reducing or breaking the seed coat so that moisture can penetrate and the embryo can begin the germination process. Scarification is commonly required on seeds with dense or hard seed shells. Many tree seeds do not require any scarification, and for those that do, the most common treatment is a simple water soak.

Hard seed coats can be broken down by a) a water soak, b) a physical or mechanical breaking of the seed coat, or c) a chemical or acid treatment (not commonly required).

a) Water soak: Pour water over the seeds and let them soak for the recommend time, often 6 to 24 hours. Most water treatments are done using room temperature water. It is best to use a glass container for soaking the seeds. Some seeds may require hot water as per instructions. Follow the above noted directions, using water at the recommended temperature.

b) Physical/Mechanical: Using a small file or sandpaper, rub the outside of the seed coat to reduce its density or to nick the seed coat so that moisture can more easily penetrate to the embryo. Take care to avoid damaging the seed embryo.

c) Chemical (Acid) Wash: The chemical wash method of scarification is generally used by commercial growers for select seed varieties and is often not required for home gardening purposes. If you are attempting it, you may want to consult a more detailed protocol and follow these basic guidelines: 1) Wear goggles and protective clothing. Wash immediately if any is spilt on your skin 2) Use a large glass jar or vessel 3) Place seeds in the dry glass container 4) Add the sulphuric acid concentrate at a volume about twice the volume of the seeds 5) Stir the mixture with a glass rod 6) Periodically check the seed for coat thickness by extracting a few seeds and cutting in half with pruners. Even in the same lot, the coat thickness may vary from seed to seed. 7) After soaking the seeds, decant acid and seeds through a screening device and wash for 5 to 10 minutes under cold water 8) Spread the seeds on a paper and allow to dry at room temperature. - be sure to spread the seeds out so that they do not clump

Stratification is the process of mimicking the natural over-wintering process by exposing the seeds to cool, moist conditions. The easiest way to undertake the stratification process is:

1) Take a few handfuls of peat moss and soak it in water until it is saturated 2) After soaking, use your hands to squeeze out as much water as possible 3) Place a layer of the moist peat moss in the bottom of a zip-lock plastic sandwich bag 4) Place the seeds on the layer and fill the rest of the bag with the peat moss 5) Seal the bag closed 6) Store the sealed bag in the bottom of the refrigerator for the appropriate stratification time.

During the cold stratification process, occasionally check the seeds for signs of early germination. If the seeds begin to germinate in the refrigerator, remove them and plant as normal.

After the prescribed stratification time in the refrigerator, remove the seeds and sow them in the normal manner.

The warm stratification step is designed to mimic the seeds summer dormancy when it is often imbedded in warm damp soil or mud. For warm stratification, follow the same steps outlined in cold stratification, except place the zip-lock bag in a warm location at or slightly above room temperature for a target temperature range of about 72 to 86 degrees F. (Often placing the bag on top of the refrigerator achieves this.)

During the warm stratification process, occasionally check the seeds for signs of early germination. If the seeds begin to germinate, plant as normal.

Seeds may be sown into individual containers or into seed trays. It is important to ensure that the seeds are planted at the recommend soil depth. Most tree seeds are planted much shallower than other annual seeds, but it typically depends on the size of the seed. Please follow the directions on each seed packet for appropriate planting depth. The seeds should be sown in a well-drained medium, such as a mixture of peat moss and vermiculite.

When sowing the seeds, fill the container or seed tray to about inch form the top with the moist medium (soil). Level the medium by gently shaking or taping the container.

For larger seeds those over a 1/3 of an inch tall, press half the seed into the medium. For smaller seeds, sprinkle them lightly over the surface of the soil. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of sand to a depth about the thickness of the seed.

After planting the seeds, gently water them and keep them moist but not wet. Maintaining high moisture and relative humidity is critical to germinating seeds. You can increase the humidity by enclosing the seed tray in a plastic tent. Be sure to poke some holes in the plastic cover to ensure adequate air circulation. Keep the trays in a warm but dimly lit location.

Germination can be as quick as a few days or as slow as several months, depending on the species and the environmental conditions. Once the seeds germinate, move the seedlings to a brighter location. You may need to nurse the seedlings indoors for a few months before planting outdoors. Try to give the young plants as much sun light as possible.

Link:
How to Grow A Tree or Shrub From Seed from TreeHelp

Virginia Green carefully inspects and treats your ornamental trees and shrubs for insects, disease and weather damage, providing the necessary fertilizer and care to ensure healthy blooms and vigorous growth. Our practice of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) and deep root fertilization means your trees and shrubs are protected against damaging insects and properly fed for growth and color.

Tree and Shrub Program

Horticultural oil for over-wintering insects, sucking insects and scales. Applied as a liquid to targeted plants and small trees.

Balanced ten-month fertilizer and micro-nutrient package specific for plants and small trees. This application is injected into the root system of the ornamentals.

Injection of systemic insecticide into the root base of plants and small trees. This application controls future insects such as Japanese beetles. All dogwoods are treated for anthracnose.

Liquid application for control of plant and tree diseases and insects. Mites are treated on susceptible plants. This application utilizes a systemic fungicide as well as a combination of insecticides for maximum control.

Liquid application for control of plant and tree diseases and insects. Mites are treated on susceptible plants. This application utilizes a systemic fungicide as well as a combination of insecticides for maximum control.

Liquid application for control of plant and tree diseases and insects. Mites are treated on susceptible plants. This application utilizes a systemic fungicide as well as a combination of insecticides for maximum control.

Liquid application for control of plant and tree diseases and insects. Mites are treated on susceptible plants. This application utilizes a systemic fungicide as well as a combination of insecticides for maximum control.

Horticultural oil for over-wintering insects, sucking insects and scales. Applied as a liquid to targeted plants and small trees.

Read this article:
Tree and Shrub Care Program | Lawn Care Services ...

This ideal is often hard to accomplish. Most plantings attempted this way wind up with one or more trees missing. Sometimes the homeowner tries to replace the missing tree, but the match is rarely perfect. Tree rows are a long-lasting addition to a landscape, so the not-so-perfect effect can be a constant source of frustration for a homeowner who wants the landscape to look tidy.

Instead of planting a formal row of all one type of tree, consider planting a mix of different trees and shrubs. By choosing a mixture of plants, you will protect your screen from major loss caused by an outbreak of a single pest or disease. A mixed planting also increases the biodiversity in your landscape by creating habitat for beneficial insects, birds, and animals. By attracting these beneficial creatures, you may find that they successfully keep populations of pest insects in check.

As mentioned above, a formal, straight line planting is difficult to accomplish and often will not meet your goal of screening as rapidly as you would prefer. Consider alternatives to formal planting rows, including the more natural-looking cluster planting method, or multiple staggered row plantings.

Cluster planting is done by strategically installing plants in groups of threes, fives, or higher odd numbers to block specific views or prevailing winds. Cluster planting provides an attractive, natural-looking screen without walling off your house and yard like a fortress. By planting clusters away from your house, you also provide backgrounds for interesting flowering and fruiting shrubs that are visible from your deck or living room. Additional cluster plantings can be used to create groves. The combined effect provides screening and an interesting design, allows for good air flow, and accommodates walkways through your property.

Another option is to install multiple staggered rows of trees and shrubs. This type of planting will provide a fortress wall effect. Multiple staggered rows are also commonly recommended for homesteads in open areas to provide protection from prevailing winter winds or reduce noise from traffic or equipment. Multiple staggered rows can be installed using two or three rows of trees and shrubs. The spacing should be based on the average diameter of the plants at maturity. Each successive row is offset or staggered so that the plant fills the visible gap between each of the plants in the previous row. To further enhance the screening, a third row of similar size or smaller plants can be planted. The major benefit of this planting arrangement is that gaps fill in quickly and total screening is achieved more rapidly than a single row. However, a common mistake by the impatient property owner is to plant the trees too close together to achieve immediate privacy. This decision will quickly lead to crowding between neighboring trees, resulting in shading, loss of lower branches, and overall loss of the screening effect.

No matter how you choose to arrange the plants in your screen, keep in mind aesthetics as well as utility. Dot the mini-forest you have created with an occasional focal-point specimen treesomething with unusually colored foliage, unusual fruit, or good fall color. This punctuation mark tree will probably cost more than other trees in the screen, but will give you many years of visual enjoyment.

Before choosing any plants, evaluate your site and your planting areas. Consider space limitations of the site including utility lines, walkways, driveways, and roads that must remain visible and accessible. Consider zoning requirements for the distance of the plantings to roads and sidewalks. Consider the soil type, drainage, and pH (soil test kits are available from your local county Penn State Cooperative Extension office). Also, consider the availability of water, which will be needed until the plants are established or during drought.

The following table lists both deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs that can be used for screening and windbreaks. Not all plants are suitable for windbreaks due to the potential for injury from cold or dry wind; plant suitability is specified in the table.

More new trees die in landscaping from planting errors than any other cause. All trees should be planted with the root flare just level with the surface of the soil. Use two to three inches of organic mulch in a wide circle, and be sure to keep all soil and mulch away from the trunk.

Before you buy any plant, learn more about it (e.g.; major pest problems in the area, cultural requirements, etc.) by asking questions at the garden center or doing research at your local library. Property size and space will also impact your plant choices, so the table is divided into plants suitable for large scale and small scale screens. Finally, deciduous plants are included for situations where summer screening for privacy is the main goal.

Read the rest here:
Using Trees and Shrubs for Privacy and Wind Screening ...

Yews (Taxus) trees and shrubs types, planting and care

Splendid Evergreens for Many Landscape Uses

Taxus (Tax'us) are beautiful evergreen trees and shrubs that are natives of North America, Europe and Asia. They belong to the Yew family, Taxaceae. The name is an old Latin one for Taxus baccata, the European Yew.

The leaves are small and, in most cases, are dark green on wild trees, but they are variable in color on cultivated forms. Male and female flowers are usually produced on different trees in early spring. The male flowers are yellow and produced in small catkins; the female flowers are greenish, very small, and difficult to find. The fruit is a small, hard, dark green or brownish seed surrounded, except at the apex, by a fleshy envelope that is red and juicy when ripe.

Shoots, leaves and seeds contain poisonous properties, and have proved fatal to both human beings and cattle. This is especially true of the English Yew. The flesh surrounding the seeds, however, is not toxic, and it is interesting to note that deer eat the foliage of Taxus cuspidata with relish and without apparent harm.

It is generally understood that shoots and leaves are in their most dangerous state when partly withered.

Valuable for Landscaping. Yews are among the finest evergreens for landscaping uses. In addition to the wild kinds, there are numerous garden varieties and hybrids which show great variation in height, habit of growth and other important characteristics and this makes it possible for the planter to select from among them those that suit his purposes best.

Yews, allowed to grow without clipping or shearing, develop into magnificent specimen plants, but they stand pruning well and are among the finest of all evergreens for planting as formal hedges and for topiary work. (See Topiary Work.) The prostrate and spreading kinds are effective ground covers.

Yews may be transplanted without undue difficulty even when quite large. Should they outgrow their allotted space, they may be pruned back severely and will "break" (put forth new shoots) even from thick old branches that have been cut back. In this respect they differ from many other evergreens.

Yews Thrive in Most Soils. Very fine old trees are often found growing naturally on limestone soils, but they also grow on sandy loam, heavy loam and on peat. They do not succeed where the subsoil is waterlogged, and even old trees may be killed by the sudden raising of the natural water level, as is brought about by flooding or by the silting up of ditches or open drains, obstructions in drainpipes or by grading operations.

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Yews (Taxus) trees and shrubs types, planting and care

Nuisance fruit is a concern for many people including homeowners, landscapers, and park and city officials. The fruits and seeds of some trees and shrubs, such as buckthorn, mulberry, persimmon, and (female) ginkgo are unsightly, smelly, and have the potential to be a hazard when they fall on sidewalks, driveways, and other areas in a landscape. Foliar sprays are available to reduce or eliminate undesirable fruit development on ornamental landscape plants, but factors such as timing, plant stresses, environmental conditions, and lack of thorough applications may make complete control impossible. Results will vary with each chemical designed to eliminate fruit.

Trees and shrubs are usually selected for landscape use based on their ornamental features, such as spring flowers, fall color, and fruit. All trees and shrubs produce some type of flowers and fruit, whether inconspicuous or showy. Fruit production is part of the plants natural development. A plant that produces a large amount of fruit may be a desirable ornamental feature or be used to feed wildlife. Despite the value of a flowering and fruiting plant, some people consider spent flowers and fruit that fall undesirable litter. There are several methods to remove fruit or prevent fruiting. Hand-removing spent flowers or small fruits will work on a small tree, but is not a practical solution for large trees or extensive plantings. Chemical or hormone-type sprays are a more practical method, but spraying your tree can be a costly and time-consuming venture. Consider the following before you decide to spray:

Amount of fruit production. The amount of fruit a plant can produce varies from year to year. Many plants will produce heavily one year and lighter the next. Insect, disease, and damage to flower blooms can reduce fruit production. Hand-removal of spent flowers is one way to eliminate unwanted fruit.

Plant removal. If maintenance is a problem, does the plant warrant keeping? Attempting to remove fruit will become a yearly expense of time and money. When all options have been considered, plant removal may be the best alternative, and replace with a plant that holds its fruit (i.e., some hawthorns and crabapples).

Size of tree. If the tree is too large to do the work yourself, you may have to hire a licensed professional to achieve adequate results.

Timing of application. Whether you hire a professional or do the work yourself, it is essential to spray at the proper time for best results. The window of opportunity varies with the species and cultivars (varieties) of a plant.

Timing. The window of opportunity for chemical or hormone-type sprays is during flowering before fruit set, usually from flower buds to the full bloom stage. It is imperative that you spray at this time for chemicals to be most effective on the flower bud. Spraying before or after flowers results in wasted time and money.

Temperature. Hormone-type sprays are influenced by weather conditions. Daytime temperatures at the time of application should be between 60 degree F and 95 degree F for best results.

Use correct concentrations. A concentration too low can increase fruit set. Excess hormone applications will cause damage to the plant.

Spray stress-free plants. Plants being treated should be healthy and vigorous. Spraying plants under stress can cause additional damage to a plant. The chemical ethephon, used to stop fruiting, breaks down into a natural plant hormone, ethylene. Plants under stress from drought, high temperatures, insect and disease problems, or environmental stress, such as compacted soils, poor drainage, or improper pH will produce ethylene. Too much ethylene can be harmful to plants, causing injury symptoms such as leaf scorch, stem damage, or defoliation, further weakening the condition of the plant.

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Preventing or Reducing Fruit on Ornamental Trees and Shrubs