Since it launched last year, NASAs Parker Solar Probe has made three dives toward the sun as it reached the fastest speed ever clocked by a human-built vehicle. Scientists released the missions first batch of findings on Wednesday, revealing that the dynamics of our star are even weirder than once imagined.

Four papers published in the journal Nature describe what the spacecraft observed during its first two flybys, as it passed within about 15 million miles of the surface of the sun. That is about half the distance that the planet Mercury orbits the sun.

All of this brand-new information about how the way our star works is going to help us understand how the sun drives change in the space environment throughout our solar system, said Nicola Fox, director of the heliophysics division at NASA, during a telephone news conference on Wednesday.

The information could help scientists develop ways to provide advance warning of solar storms that could knock out satellites and electrical grids or endanger the health of astronauts in orbit.

The sun is essentially a big ball of hydrogen and helium, and for something that we see every day, it remains a complex ball of mystery.

One puzzle that scientists have been pondering for decades: Why is the solar atmosphere superhot?

The surface of the sun what we see as a yellow disk in the sky is about 10,000 degrees Fahrenheit. That is toasty, but cool compared with what lies above, in the thin atmosphere known as the corona.

There, the temperatures jump by a factor of 300 or more, to millions of degrees. The corona also accelerates the solar wind the million-miles-per-hour stream of particles that fly outward from the sun.

Justin C. Kasper, a professor of space sciences and engineering at the University of Michigan and the principal investigator of one of the solar probes four instruments, said scientists said they had a hunch that the vibrating of the suns magnetic fields like the plucking of a guitar string was critical to heating the corona. So they were curious about what the vibrations would look like closer to the sun.

As expected, the vibrations did get stronger. But the instrument also picked up additional, powerful waves. Kind of like rogue waves in the ocean, Dr. Kasper said.

As one of the big waves swept the spacecraft, the speed of the solar wind would, within seconds, rise by 300,000 miles per hour. Each wave would last seconds to minutes. Just as quickly, in seconds, it goes past us, and were back in the normal solar wind, Dr. Kasper said.

The waves were so strong that they could flip the direction of the magnetic field, producing S-shape twists that the scientists called switchbacks, like the twisty paths carved in the side of a steep mountain.

These are very large and energetic events, Dr. Kasper said. Were really excited about this, because we think it tells us a possible path to understanding how energy is getting from the sun into the atmosphere and heating it.

With the closer view of the sun, scientists also now have a better idea of where the solar wind originates.

Most of the solar wind measurements to date have been in the neighborhood of Earth, more than 90 million miles from the sun.

Stuart Bale, a physicist at the University of California, Berkeley, who leads an instrument that measures the electric and magnetic fields in the solar wind, said trying to study solar winds from Earth is like observing the waterfall halfway down.

The water is always flowing past us, he said. It is very turbulent, chaotic, unstructured. And we want to know what is the source of the waterfall, whats at the top. Is there an iceberg melting up there? Is there a sprinkler system? A lake?

By the time the solar wind reaches Earth, clues about its origin have been jumbled and become difficult to discern.

We want to know the source of the water, whats at the top, Dr. Bale said.

He said that data from the Parker Solar Probe now shows that the so-called slow solar wind, moving at relatively slow speeds of less than a million miles per hour, emerges from what are known as coronal holes locations associated with sunspots and where hydrogen and helium are colder and less dense near the suns Equator. (Faster solar winds traveling more than a million miles per hour were known to originate from coronal holes near the poles.)

The spacecraft has also been putting together a picture of the cloud of dust surrounding the sun and the corona bits shed from comets and asteroids that have passed. The dust was thinner closer to the sun, matching the expectations for a long-theorized dust-free zone around the star.

As the Parker Solar Probe gets closer repeated flybys of Venus in the coming years will eventually nudge it to a trajectory that will take it within four million miles of the sun it is likely to confirm that observation and reveal new mysteries.

Its a bit early to say whether these discoveries actually overturn existing models, Daniel Verscharen, a space scientist at University College London who wrote a commentary accompanying the Nature papers, said in an email. They definitely show that there is a lot more happening close to the sun and that its absolutely worth going there to explore further.

A European Space Agency mission, Solar Orbiter, is set to launch in February. While it will not get as close to the sun as the Parker Solar Probe, it will carry instruments that will provide different views and provide more clues on solving the mystery of the solar wind.

Eugene N. Parker, a retired University of Chicago astrophysicist whom the spacecraft is named after, predicted the existence of the solar wind in 1958. It was humbling to see the probes launch and watch it disappear into the night sky, Dr. Parker, now 92, said in a statement provided by the university. But now that data is finally coming in and being analyzed, things are getting really exciting.

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NASAs Parker Solar Probe Is Unlocking the Suns Mysteries - The New York Times

The Global Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System Market report study includes an elaborative summary of the Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System market that provides in-depth knowledge of various different segmentations. Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System Market Research Report presents a detailed analysis based on the thorough research of the overall market, particularly on questions that border on the market size, growth scenario, potential opportunities, operation landscape, trend analysis, and competitive analysis of Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System Market. The information includes the company profile, annual turnover, the types of products and services they provide, income generation, which provide direction to businesses to take important steps. Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System delivers pin point analysis of varying competition dynamics and keeps ahead of Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System competitors such as Toro, Weathermatic (Telsco Industries), Hunter Industries, Rain Bird, Galcon, Rachio, Orbit Irrigation.

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Global Wi-Fi Smart Sprinkler Control System Market 2019 by Manufacturers, Regions, Type and Application, Forecast to 2025 - Breaking News Updates

College Avenue reopened to traffic earlier this week as the first of three phases of construction came to a close. The 100-300 block of College Avenue had been closed to cars with its asphalt torn up since the College Avenue Sewer Replacement Project began on August 7, with construction crews installing new water and sewage lines.

The road has been repaved for the winter and spring to allow vehicles to drive as usual. In the next construction phase, most likely beginning in May, New York State Electric and Gas Corporation crews will dig up College Avenue once again and install a gas line, as well as an electric line underground to replace the current above-ground electric lines.

Since the road reopened, TCAT routes 11N, 30, 51 and 70 have resumed normal paths along College Avenue, according to a TCAT press release. The return of the bus route to this section of the road has helped business at the Green Star grocery, as people waiting for the bus frequently stop into the store for a snack, according to Green Star employee Jimmy Pomm.

But another local employee saw the effects of construction differently. Elber Calderon at Enzo Pizzeria told The Sun that business has remained steady throughout the construction.

Thomas Knipe, Ithacas Deputy Director for Economic Development, said that city officials are aware of the potential negative impacts that the construction might have on businesses. To address these issues, the city posted signs near the construction site indicating that the businesses remained open as usual, Knipe said.

Some employees at nearby businesses have had trouble parking since the project reduced parking spaces in the area, according to Calderon. Graham Kerslick (D-4th), Alderperson for the 4th Ward, said that limited parking was an issue that city officials are trying to mitigate.

Another concern that residents and local employees voiced about the construction was the dust in the air, which contractors have tried to quell, Kerslick said.

The sewer and water lines have not been replaced since 1895, according to Erik Whitney, assistant superintendent of the Department of Public Works, Water & Sewer.

We got our moneys worth out of this infrastructure, Whitney said. Its roughly a 100-year life cycle with the water and sewer, so this is a once in a lifetime project for everyone involved.

Aging aside, Whitney said that the water and sewage system needs an urgent update to provide adequate fire protection to the increasing population of Collegetown. According to Alderperson Stephen Smith (D-4th Ward), housing developments over the last five years have increased the living capacity of the area by approximately 1000 people, including the area of the College Avenue construction.

If a sprinkler system is activated, we need to know that the flow rate is enough to provide fire suppression, Whitney said. This was completely different with two or three story buildings. The new water pipes are larger than those installed in 1895 to supply sufficient water to these buildings in case of a fire.

The water and sewage pipes are being installed first because they are buried deeper than electrical and gas lines at around 5 and 8 feet deep respectively to avoid freezing in the winter. Electrical and gas lines, buried around two feet deep, will be installed next construction season.

Whitney said that the work has gone smoothly, finishing this stage of the project under the 800 thousand budget. Smith, though, was less optimistic.

I wouldve liked to see power lines buried at the same time as the water and sewage work, Smith said. But NYSEG is notoriously difficult to coordinate with, and notoriously bad at maintaining a construction schedule. Its obviously unfortunate to have two consecutive years of construction, but were having growing pains.

He added that the need for an improved sewage system is so serious that it could not wait for the NYSEG work happening next construction season. Theres always inconvenience, primarily for college students, Whitney said. Having one of the four years disrupted is a high percentage of their time here.

Unlike the water and sewage work, the electrical work is less urgent, according to Smith. The motivation for moving the electrical lines underground is to avoid outages or fallen power lines during a storm, as well as to improve the appearance of Collegetown.

This lattice work of power lines, its something you generally dont really notice, but it gives this exposed underdeveloped, temporary feel to things, Smith said. Its just not as neat and orderly or well designed as wed like a street with College Avenues prominence to be.

According to Smith, much of the reason that this work is happening now is that development in Collegetown has been discouraged since the 1970s. In 2012, city officials changed course, changing parking, zoning and height regulations to enable the larger developments which make replacement of the 134-year-old water and sewer lines even more urgent.

Smith said that permanent residents in Collegetown, tired of the student-dominated scene, implemented a regulation that every new building must have available one parking space for every two residents. This requirement meant that high-capacity buildings were effectively prohibited.

You can never build enough parking for a 50-unit apartment building, Smith said. But this strategy has unintended negative consequences, according to Smith. Many homeowners or developers paved over lawns to provide parking spaces, and renters spread out to surrounding single-family neighborhoods.

The 2012 decision also allowed developers to build taller buildings, and got rid of the requirement that structures cannot be built within five feet of the property line, therefore allowing owners with side-by-side properties to build adjoined buildings.

You see this in Washington, D.C., San Francisco, and New York City, Smith said. It has this charming urban vibe.

The final stage of construction, scheduled to be completed in two years, involves redesigning the surface of the street.

This is a good opportunity to rethink what we want Collegetown to look like are the sidewalks wide enough, does it make sense to provide so much longterm on street parking should we install bike lanes, Smith said. People have even suggested blocking it off to all traffic besides bikes and busses.

Smith said the redesign is constrained by the age of the street. It was built for two carriages to pass each other, not two buses, he said.

But Smith, ultimately, saw a glass half-full. This is all in the purpose of creating a better neighborhood where people can feel comfortable and people can enjoy living, Smith said. Thats the light at the end of the tunnel.

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First Phase of College Avenue Construction Closes for the Season, on Schedule - Cornell University The Cornell Daily Sun

Video still from sprinklers going off at the old Target store in Campbell River. (Kory Wallace, Facebook)

Faulty sprinklers at the old Target store this morning wont put a damper on food donations this Christmas.

So says Knights of Columbus spokesperson, Kevin Gearey.

For 46 years, The Knights Of Columbus have been helping struggling individuals and families through their Community Christmas Hamper Fund.

Gearey said that just a small percentage of their food donations are stored there.

Right now, there is just the food that we got off the Fill The Bus (campaign), Gearey said. So theres not a whole lot. There might be five percent of the food that we are eventually going to use. And we are not in the Target area where the shopping occurred. Were in the area of Target where they used to have all of their storage their backroom sort of thing where its cement floors, cement and so on.

Gearey said most of the food is ordered during the first week of November and is delivered about two weeks before delivery day.

Thats when the 18 wheelers will come in and drop off the canned goods and dry goods and so on, and all of our perishable stuff goes to a cooler north of town, theres a company there that takes care of all of that for us the turkeys, hams, cheese, carrots, and the margarine they store that for us until the day we need it, he said.

Campbell River fire chief Thomas Doherty said the building is equipped with a dry sprinkler system for areas outside under the awnings.

These dry systems are normally charged with air (which holds the water valve closed) to eliminate the risk of the sprinkler line freezing outside.

Doherty said that when a sprinkler head activates on a dry system, or when the air compressor fails, the air escapes the system and the water valve opens which flows water to the dry system.

In some circumstances, the dry systems will charge when the compressor fails, but no sprinkler heads flow until the head itself activates due to heat, or damage, Doherty said.

Today, a sprinkler head on the dry system activated (failed for some reason) outside the building, there was no fire, Doherty added.

We were able to isolate the sprinkler system by shutting down the isolation valve to the dry system. There was no water damage to the building.

Continued here:
Knights of Columbus food hampers unaffected by fire sprinklers going off - My Comox Valley Now

Here are five important fire safety tips, courtesy of the Red Cross. St. Cloud Times/USA TODAY NETWORK, Wochit

Clive Fire Lt. Gerrit Foreman has worked25years fighting fires.

So whenhe saw the MadisonCounty home he partially built being devoured by flames over the weekend, his heart broke, he said. One of the family's dogs and two cats died, but Foreman's familymade it out alive. Only the fireplace was left standing.

Foreman said he felthelpless.

"That was the most humbling part, was looking at my kid's face and knowing that's something that I can't fix," Foreman said.

"I've grown up my whole life being able to fix everything and do everything, but this is something that no matter how much effort I put forward, I can't fix it."

All that was left standing of Clive Fire Lt. Gerrit Foreman was their fireplace.(Photo: Special to the Register)

Foreman splits his work time between Clive and Windsor Heights as a full-time firefighter and paramedic48 hours on, 24 hours off. He was working in Windsor Heights at about 3:30 a.m. Saturday when he got thetearful call from his wife, Connie, saying their house in St. Charles was on fire.

"First question I asked was, 'Was everybody out?'" Foreman said.

Foreman left the station and made thehalf-hour trip home as he spoke with his family.

When the fire started, Connie was in the house with their son, Evan, 15, and daughter, Hannah, 17. Their eldest, Emma, 19, was staying with a friend butdrove back to be with her family.

Clive Fire Lt. Gerrit Foreman returned to his home after a frantic call from his wife around 3:30 a.m. He arrived to see his St. Charles home in flames.(Photo: Special to the Register)

Hannahbegged over the phone for Foreman to do something as she watched the flames travel to her room.

"I've spent a majority of my time protecting other people, and I couldn't protect my family," Foreman said.

A neighbor housed his wife and kids as Foreman arrived. He asked a friend to be with him when he arrived.

Later, when Foreman brought the family'sdogs into a pole barn, he realized one of the sixwas missing.

Major, a German Shepherd who was Connie's "adamant companion," had followed her back into the house during the fire.He didn't make it back out.

The family had lived in the home for about five years. Foreman had remodeled the home and added a second staircase, a master bath and two bedrooms.

Foreman made sure his home had working fire alarms and two sets of stairs. He said his wifetold him she would have been dead if it weren'tfor the fire alarms he installed. Still, he said hewished he wouldhave installeda residential sprinkler system.

A fire destroyed the home of Clive Fire Lt. Gerrit Foreman. After his fire family started a GoFundMe, people have blown past the $3,000 goal and raised over $20,000.(Photo: Special to the Register)

Foreman began as a volunteer firefighter in 1994 in Truro, a town just south of St. Charles. In 2009, he applied to be a part-time firefighter in Clive.

At the interview, he was asked why he chose to apply inClive. He said hedidn't know he could get paid as a part-time firefighter until a friend told him about the opportunity.

He became a full-time firefighter a few years later.

"It kind of tugs at your soul," Foreman said."It's something that people really have a passion for and love doing. I love going and helping people. I love being the one that people turn to when they have no one else to ask for help.

"It's not a fire department anymore, it's an everything department."

Now, Foreman said itfeels strange being the one that needs help. The people in his community, without ever being asked, have stepped up. And his colleagues at the fire departmentin Clivestarted a fundraiser.

"I'm not used to being on the receiving end of this stuff," Foreman said."It's wonderful ... It just amazes me what people will do for you."

Clive Fire Chief Rick Roe said they expected to raise a few thousand dollars. The GoFundMe's $3,000 goal has been greatly surpassed with more than $23,000 raised for the Foremans.

"Gerrit's the kindof person that if anyone was down on their luck he'd be ... the first person to help somebody else," Roe said. "He's finding himself in the unique position where he's the person that could use a helping hand this time."

Foreman is taking some time off to decide on next steps. He said his wife joked that he won't last the week without working.

Here are some year-round fire prevention tips courtesy of the Delaware State Fire Marshal's Office. 8/13/19 Damian Giletto, The News Journal

Foreman said he thinks they will rebuild on the 20-acre land where thehouse stood. He said he can't imagine living anywhere else.

"I wouldn't change a thing about where I live. I love this community, the people that are in it," Foreman said."I hourly get texts and calls, 'What can we bring you? What can we do for you?' I know you see that in other places, but I think in a small-town community, something happens, and they really rally around you."

For now, Foreman said his kids seem to be responding as he does as a firefighter, ignoring the chaos and moving forward. They are running errands for their parents and offering other help where they can.

He said his children are actually stronger than he.

"They kind of went, 'Yep, it's time to take over,'" Foreman said.

Foreman said he and his wife are still wrapping their heads around the loss of a home. He comparedhis houseto a hunter's trophy.

Foreman said for hisfamily of hunters, their stuffed turkeys don't just serve as trophiesbut as mementos for what they experienced and accomplished together. After building onto his home with his children, wife and friends, he felt their home served the same purpose.

When they buildagain, Foreman said their new home will be a reminder of how fast things can change.

"Been doing this (firefighting) 25 years, and I don't think I ever once thought that that could be me," Foreman said.

Danielle Gehr is a breaking news reporter at the Des Moines Register. She can be reached by email at dgehr@dmreg.com, by phone at 515-284-8367 or on Twitter at @Dani_Gehr.

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'That's something that I can't fix': Clive firefighter is heartbroken after fire destroys his family's home - Des Moines Register

Warm weather brings with it lush lawns and gorgeous gardens, but it also means staying on top of keeping them healthy and hydrated. Be sure to properly care for your outdoor oasis by developing and maintaining a watering and irrigation system that will protect your yard even during the dog days of summer.

All the Basics & MoreVisit The Home Depot to pick up all of the above ground watering and irrigation supplies that you'll need this season. We make your lawn care easy by offering a wide selection of products for your convenience. Create a customized plant watering system that best fits your yard. Pick up a sprinkler hose and choose from a variety of nozzles and wands.

Precise Watering is Within ReachYou can also find hose timers and misting systems to ensure that your lawn is watered consistently and on a timely basis. There are even Wi-Fi enabled smart timers that allow you to control your watering schedule, zones and amounts right from your smart device.

Youll also find an extensive selection of irrigation and drip irrigation systems and supplies at The Home Depot. We carry the basics like PVC irrigation pipe and drainage pipes and accessories, as well as products to make your irrigation process easier. You can also visit homedepot.com for information about how to properly buy and install drip irrigation. Explore our helpful general watering tips and educational tools to help you design a sprinkler system that works best for your unique yard.

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Watering & Irrigation Supplies - homedepot.com

Where and How to Connect Your Irrigation System to Your Water Supply:

This page provides some specific rules, tips, and techniques for tapping into a house water supply pipe for a new irrigation system. Where and how you tap into the water supply can be critically important, not just for the proper operation of the irrigation system, but also for the preservation of your sanity!

The first thing you need to do is to contact your water provider (assuming you have one) and find out if they have any specific requirements on where to tap irrigation systems into the water supply. Most of the time the only requirement they have will be that the irrigation tap needs to be after the water meter, meaning the water needs to go through the meter to reach your irrigation system (so that you pay for the irrigation water!)

In some places you will be required to install a second water meter for the irrigation water (ie; at the time I am writing this the state of California (USA) is considering a state-wide requirement that all new irrigation systems must have a second, separate water meter that measures only irrigation water. Some local water companies already require separate meters.) If that is the situation the water provider will likely have a very specific place, method, and brand of meter you must use for the irrigation water tap. The location of the tap will depend on what kind of water meter they require, so they will need to help you. They may require that a professional certified by the water provider install the meter.

Typical Irrigation Water Tap Location: If a separate water meter is not required the general rule-of-thumb is that the irrigation tap is installed someplace on the water supply pipe after any water meters and before the house emergency shut-off valve. That allows the irrigation to still work even if you need to shut off the house water for an emergency. A second emergency shut-off valve is installed on the irrigation system water supply after the tap. I like to install a hose outlet on the house water supply pipe before the house emergency shut-off valve. That way it the house water has to be shut-off in an emergency the homeowner will still have a source of water!

Warm Climates: A typical warm climate home has a water supply pipe that goes underground from the water source to the house. Typically this pipe is buried about 18 inches deep. At the house the supply pipe comes up out of the ground, makes a right angle, then goes into the house wall. The emergency shut-off valve for the house is almost always located on this above ground section of pipe where it is convenient to get to it. The normal method of installing a irrigation tap is to cut into this supply pipe anyplace between the water meter (if there is one) and the house emergency shut-off valve. The cut and tap may be made into either the below ground part of the pipe or in the section where the pipe is above ground. Whatever is easiest and most convenient for you.

If the tap is going to be made underground, it may be possible and easier to install a tap by cutting into the water supply pipe and installing a special tee called a compression tee (see How to Use Compression Tees & Couplings.)

Cold Climates: In cold winter climates the water supply for the house typically goes from the water supply to the house underground, often buried several feet deep to protect it from frost. It typically enters the house through a basement or crawl space below the house floors. A water meter is often installed on the water supply pipe in the basement or crawl space. The irrigation tap has to be after the water meter (if you have one.) Because the water supply pipe is usually buried very deep, most people install the irrigation tap in the basement or crawl space where it is easier to reach. If you are tapping into a water supply in a basement or under a house you may want to hire a plumber to install the tap if you are not experienced at plumbing work. You dont want a flooded basement if you mess it up.

If the tap is to go outside the house and underground, it may be possible and easier to install a tap by cutting into the water supply pipe and installing a special tee called a compression tee (see How to Use Compression Tees & Couplings.)

If at all possible do not tap into a pipe or use a stub-out where the water will need to flow through the house to get to the irrigation system (other than through the basement.) In other words, you do not want the water to go through pipes inside the house walls to get to the irrigation system. I see a lot of homes where the builder has provided an irrigation outlet on the back of the house, with the water running through the house to reach it. Most people who utilize one of these outlets regret it! There are a few reasons for this:

So I recommend that if you need to get water from one side of the house to the other, that you install a new pipe around the house. If you decide to use an outlet on the side of the house, perform a simple test. If there is a hose on the outlet remove it (the hose will restrict the flow.) Wait until late at night and then open up that faucet all the way. Then go inside and see how loud it sounds inside the house. The noise will likely be even louder when the irrigation system is installed.

I realize sometimes you have no choice but to route the water through the house. If so I suggest you reduce the flow for each valve zone. Lowering the flow reduces the water velocity in the pipes. With a lower velocity, there is much less chance you will have any of these problems occur. Try to keep it under 4 feet/second. (The Pressure Loss Spreadsheets will give you the velocities for various flows and pipes.) You may need to double the number of valves to lower the flow, but it is better than listening to the noise, or worse, having to spend thousands of dollars to replace the pipes in the house walls because they were destroyed by scrubbing!

Its a good idea to install an emergency isolation or shut-off valve on the irrigation water pipe as close as possible to the point where you tap into the water supply. That way you can easily and quickly shut-down the irrigation system for emergencies or repairs. In areas where it freezes in winter this valve should be protected from freezing. The standard is to use a ball valve for the isolation valve. Inexpensive gate valves have a tendency to fail after just a few uses. This is a good place to spend more money for a quality valve. Nothing is worse than having an emergency and discovering your emergency shut off valve doesnt work!

You must have a backflow preventer on your irrigation system if it is connected to any water system that is used for drinking water. In some places this includes well water, even if your well is not used for drinking. In most places this is the law, everywhere else its just the smart thing to do. THE IRRIGATION VALVES ARE NOT SUFFICIENT TO STOP BACKFLOW. This website has a very detailed article on backflow preventers that will help you figure out why, where, and guide you step-by-step in selecting which one to use. See Everything You Need to Know About Backflow Preventers.

This article is part of the Sprinkler Irrigation Installation Tutorial Series<<< Previous Page ||| Tutorial Index ||| Next Page >>>By using this tutorial you agree to be bound by the conditions and limitations listed on the Terms of Use page.

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Connect Sprinkler System to Water Supply - Irrigation

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Save big bucks by blowing out the sprinkler system yourself

Close off both valves on the backflow preventer. Then remove the plug on the blow-out port and screw in a quick-connect hose adapter. Snap on the air hose and connect the other end to the compressor.

With a basic quick-connect coupling, you can use your air compressor to clear water from your sprinkler system for the winter. Just be aware that even the largest home compressor isnt powerful enough to blow out the entire system at once. But you can probably blow it out zone by zone.

If youre into number crunching and you have the original irrigation layout showing the gallons per minute (gpm) of each sprinkler head, just divide the total gpm of each zone by 7.5. Thatll give you the cubic feet per minute (cfm) you need to blow it out. Otherwise, just rent a 10-cfm compressor and hose from your local tool rental center.

Set the compressor air pressure regulator to a maximum of 80 psi for rigid PVC pipe systems, or 50 psi for flexible black polyethylene pipe. Then turn off the water supply and set the system timer to open just one zone. Next, open the manual drain valve at the end of that zone (if equipped). Then, connect the air line to the blow-out port as shown. Connect the other end of the air hose to the compressor and blow out the line. The heads should pop up and spit out water. Disconnect the hose as soon as they run dry. Dont overdo the blowoutwithout water cooling the plastic gears, they can melt in less than a minute. So move on to the next zone and allow the heads to cool. Then go back and blow out each zone a second time.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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How to Winterize a Sprinkler System The Family Handyman

Overview: Simple system, easy fixes

An automatic lawn irrigation system is the best way to keep your lawn looking fresh and green. Correctly designed and programmed, itll deliver the right amount of water to your yard no more moving the sprinkler! But like any other sprinklers system, it occasionally breaks down or requires maintenance.

The good news is you can handle 90 percent of the sprinkler repairs yourself, even without in-depth knowledge of the system. Well show you how to identify and fix the most common problems. Calling in a professional could cost at least $100, even for a simple problem you can fix yourself in 10 minutes.

Dont be intimidated by the prospect of working on a sprinklers system that involves both plumbing and electricity. The pipes are plastic and much simpler to repair than the plumbing in your house. The electrical lines are low voltage, so theyre not hazardous. You dont need special skills to make the repairs, but youll need a multimeter to diagnose electrical problems for sprinkler repairs.

The controller sends a signal to the control valves in the control valve box. The valves open, sending water through the underground water line, which causes the sprinkler heads to pop up and spray.

Dig around the sprinkler head to expose the riser. Unscrew the broken sprinkler head from the riser. Install the new head, turning it tight with your hands.

Broken sprinkler heads are easy to identify. Simply look for cracked or broken plastic casing on the heads, heads that dont pop up, or water that sprays wildly or not at all. Its common to find the top of the head completely broken off. This typically happens to heads that are set too high and are run over by vehicles or hit by lawn mowers.

Replacing the head is one of the simplest fixes. Replacement heads are available at home centers and online. Be sure to buy the same type of head that youre replacing.

To change a broken head, turn off the system and dig a 2-ft.-diameter hole around the head. Using a square shovel, slice the sod into easy-to-remove pieces. Set the sod on a tarp so you can set it back into place at the end of the job.

Dig down to the riser (the vertical pipe that branches off the main line) which is connected to the sprinkler head. Dig with a light touch to avoid damaging the plastic water line, which is 8 to 12 in. underground.

Turn the head counterclockwise to remove it from the riser. While the head is off, take care not to spill dirt into the riser. Sprinkler heads are installed only hand-tight, but after being in the ground for several years, they may require the use of wrenches to unscrew. If the head doesnt turn easily, hold the riser with slip joint pliers to keep it from twisting loose from the fittings below.

Attach the new sprinkler head by placing it on the riser and turning it hand-tight (photo). Dont use Teflon tape or joint compound on the riser threads. Sprinkler heads are factory tested to make sure they work. As a result, theyre often packaged still wet, so dont be surprised to see water in a new head.

Before filling in the hole and replacing the sod, set the desired sprinkler pattern (see Reset the Spray Pattern, below).

Caution: Before you start digging to access the underground water lines, electrical wires or spray heads, dial 811 to have your underground utility lines identified and marked.

Disassemble the sprinkler head by unscrewing the top from the canister. Rinse away soil and debris in a bucket of water.

Remove the screen basket from the bottom of the head, then clean it with water.

Adjust the watering range of the sprinkler head before installing it. Place the head in the canister so the nozzle is at the edge of the area to be watered. Make final adjustments with the water running.

Dirt sometimes gets inside sprinkler heads, causing them to clog up. Clogged heads may rise but fail to spray, not lower after watering, or produce an erratic spray pattern.

To clean the head, dig it out and remove it from the Riser (Photo above). Take the head apart by holding the bottom of the canister and turning the top of the head counterclockwise. Once its unscrewed, lift it out of the canister (Photo 1).

Remove the plastic screen basket, which serves as a filter, at the base of the head. If you cant pop the basket out with your fingers, pry it out with a flat-head screwdriver or pull it free with a pliers. Rinse the basket in a bucket of clean water, washing out the debris (Photo 2). Clean the rest of the sprinkler head by rinsing it with water. Replace the head on the riser. If it still doesnt work, replace it with a new head. Note: In areas of the country that experience freezing temperatures, polyethylene (poly) pipe is used for the irrigation water lines. PVC pipe is used in areas that dont freeze.

Reset the spray pattern

When putting on a new sprinkler head or using the same head after cleaning, you may need to adjust it to water a specific area. Adjustment methods vary. You can adjust some head types by turning a slot at the top with a screwdriver. Others require a special key that you insert into the head and turn (Photo 3). Some heads also allow you to adjust the spray pattern by turning a tiny screw located next to the nozzle.

Adjust the heads before installing them, then fine-tune them once theyre in place with the sprinkler running. First, turn the top clockwise until it stops. That nozzle location is the starting point (the head will turn counterclockwise from there). Adjust the head to set the watering rotation anywhere from 40 degrees to 360 degrees counterclockwise from the starting point. Set the head in the canister. Standing behind the head, align the nozzle with the right edge of the area you want to water, such as along a driveway. Tighten the head in the canister. Carefully backfill the hole and replace the sod.

Turn on the sprinklers system at the controller. Allow the head to make a few rotations, then make additional adjustments while the system is running for sprinklers repair.

Check the valves on the backflow device to make sure theyre open. Turn the valve on the horizontal pipe first, then the vertical pipe valve.

Low water pressure will result in the sprinkler heads barely shooting water. In extreme cases, many of the heads wont even pop up. Start with the easiest solution. Make sure the valves at the backflow device are fully open. The backflow device is located above ground, with the valve at least 12 in. above the highest sprinkler head in the yard. Most backflow devices have a valve on the horizontal and vertical pipes. Turn the valves to their open positions as shown. The valve is open when the handle is parallel with the pipe.

Cut out the damaged section of line and replace it with a slip coupling. Secure the coupling with band clamps.

A slip coupling easily expands and contracts to replace a damaged section of line.

Then check for leaks in the water line. Look for a series of sprinkler heads that arent watering properly. The water line problem is always located between the last working head and the first nonworking head.

Look for signs of leaking water, such as water bubbling up from the soil when the sprinklers system are running, a depression in the ground, or a very wet area. If you find running water, follow the water to the highest point to find the source.

Once you locate the approximate leak site, dig straight down to the water line. Then enlarge the hole along the line, following the flow of the leaking water until you find the break or crack. Before making the repair, make sure the system is turned off at the controller.

Use a slip coupling to repair the leak. This special coupling contracts to make insertion easy. Find these couplings and other repair parts at irrigation supply stores.

To fix the leak, use a hacksaw to cut out a 4-in. section of line at the leak. Place a clamp on one of the line ends, insert the coupling, then tighten the clamp.

Place a clamp on the second pipe end, expand the coupling while inserting the nipple into the pipe, then tighten the clamp. Backfill the hole with dirt and replace the sod.

Tree roots can grow around a pipe and squeeze it closed after several years.

Cut out the damaged section of line. Replace it with a new section of line, making connections with standard couplings and band clamps.

If you cant locate a leak, the water line may be crushed or obstructed. Sometimes, roots wrap around the line and squeeze it closed over the course of several years (photo 1). Or vehicles may have compressed the soil and collapsed the line. These problems are harder to find and often require a lot of digging. Again, look for the problem after the last working head. Dig along the water line until you find the damaged section. If the line runs near a tree, start your digging there.

Once you locate the damaged section, cut it out with a hacksaw. If the line was damaged by tree roots, reroute the line by digging a new trench away from the tree.

Cut a new section of pipe to replace the damaged one. Then replace the section of pipe, connecting it at each end with regular couplings and band clamps (photo 2).

Check the voltage to the nonworking zone using a multimeter. Touch the leads to the common terminal and zone terminal. If the voltage is too low, replace the controller.

Your watering system is divided into a series of zones. Each zone has an electrically activated valve that controls the heads for a designated area.

Generally, if you have a zone thats not turning on, you have an electrical problem. To solve the problem, make sure the zone wires are firmly attached to the terminals in the controller, the transformer is plugged in, and the circuit breaker at the main panel is on.

Next, test for voltage to the nonworking zone, using a multimeter (at home centers and hardware stores). Turn on the nonworking zone at the controller. Turn the multimeter dial to voltage and place one lead on the common terminal (marked c or com). Place the other lead on the terminal of the zone thats not working (photo left). It doesnt matter which lead goes to which terminal.

Refer to your owners manual to see whether the voltage reading falls within the required range (usually 24 to 28 volts). If it doesnt, the controller needs to be replaced. (If you dont get any voltage reading, see Check Fuse and Transformer, below.)

Fortunately, controllers rarely go bad unless struck by lightning. New ones start at $175 and can cost upward of $400. Replace a damaged controller with the same brand and model as you currently have. To replace it, label each wire thats connected to the controller with a piece of tape. Unhook the wires, then attach them to the new controller in the same sequence.

Test the transformer voltage by placing the multimeter leads on the transformer terminals marked 24 vac with the transformer plugged in. If the reading is less than 22, replace the transformer.

If no zones will turn on, first turn the controller to the manual setting to see if the system will run. And if it turns on manually, the controller is good but the rain sensor may be stopping the automatic programmed watering, which is what its designed to do.

Rain sensors conserve water by preventing the system from running when the ground is already saturated and doesnt need additional watering. Some states require rain sensors on all new systems. (Your rain sensor is bad if the system runs when the ground is already wet.)

If the system doesnt run in the manual position, check the controller for power. If it has a fuse, make sure its not blown. Or, if it has a circuit breaker reset button, press the button, then try the system again. If the system is plugged into a GFCI receptacle, press the GFCI reset button.

If it still doesnt turn on, make sure the outlet that the power transformer is plugged into is working by plugging in a power tool. And if its working, plug the transformer back in, turn the system off and test the transformer for voltage. Using a multimeter, place a lead on each of the two transformer terminals. It doesnt matter which lead goes to which terminal.

The transformer terminals are marked 24 vac. A 24-voltage transformer should normally test between 24 and 28 volts. If the voltage falls below the manufacturers range, replace the transformer. Simply unscrew the terminals that hold the two transformer wires in the controller and remove the transformer (photo). Insert the wires on the new transformer through the designated opening in the controller. Attach the wires to the controller terminals marked 24 vac by placing the wire ends under the screws, then tightening them.

Disconnect the wires and unscrew the defective solenoid from the control valve. Insert a new one and turn it until its finger-tight.

Connect the two wires on the new solenoid to the common wire and a field wire, using waterproof connectors.

Special connectors are filled with silicone to make the connections waterproof.

If the controller, fuse and transformer check out OK, test the resistance ohms between the common terminal and the nonworking zone. Turn off the system, turn the multimeter to test for ohms (the omega symbol), and place the leads on the common terminal and zone terminal, just as you did to test for voltage.

Compare the ohms reading with the range listed in your owners manual (usually 20 to 60 ohms). If the ohms fall below the required amount, the switch (solenoid) that operates the control valve for that zone is defective and needs to be replaced. The defective solenoid will be connected to the same color wire as the zone wire at the controller. (If the reading is too high, see Repair Damaged Wires below.)

Control valves are typically grouped with three to six valves in one box (Photo 1). The boxes are located in the ground with a cover that simply lifts off. They can be located anywhere in the yard but are usually close to the main water supply.

Although valves themselves rarely need to be replaced, solenoids do occasionally fail. Replacing them is quick and easy. Be sure the controller is in the off position (you dont need to shut off the power) and the water valves on the backflow device are turned off. Inside the control valve box, remove the wire connectors and disconnect the two wires on the defective solenoid from the common and field wires. Turn the solenoid counterclockwise to unscrew it from the valve (Photo 1). Water will slowly seep out of the valve opening, even with the water turned off.

Place a new solenoid in the valve and turn it until its finger-tight. Twist the ends of the new solenoid wires onto the same common and field wires that the old solenoid was attached to (Photo 2). It doesnt matter which solenoid wire goes to the common and which one goes to the field wire. Twist a new waterproof wire connector over each connection (Photo 2). To make waterproof connections, use a silicone-filled direct bury connector (Photo 2A), available at home centers.

Repair damaged wires If the ohms reading between the common terminal and nonworking zone terminal is too high (its sometimes an infinity reading), the problem is a severed or bad wire to the control valve. If only one zone isnt working, the field wire is damaged. If none of the zones in a control valve box is working, the common wire is damaged, although the field wires could also be bad.

To find a bad wire, bypass each in turn by temporarily substituting a 14-gauge wire for the original that you run above ground. Make the wire connections with the controller turned off. Then turn the controller back on. Test the field wire first. If the zone turns on, the old field wire is bad. Replace it with an 18-gauge wire rated for underground burial. Bury the wire at least 8 in. underground. Follow the same procedure to test the common wire.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

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Fixing Sprinkler Systems The Family Handyman