Our experienced team, based out of Sterling, Va, has built a reputation for providing professional residential and commercial siding installation and repair services designed to meet your bedget. We proudle serve all of Northern Virginia, give us a call for a quick consultation. We'd be happy to schedule a free estimate and provide you with all of the material and warranty information you need to help you make your decision.

Top rated by the Better Business Bureau, Service Magic, and Angie's List, you can feel comfortable going with Augustine. We are a fully licensed and insured ROOFING company. We are not a jack-of-all-trades. We specialize in roofing installation, using the best materials and installers who are full-time roofers. Focusing on this one aspect ensures that we have the skills and abilities to tackle even the toughest jobs. We've seen it all.

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Augustine Roofing is a ShingleMaster company, certified by CertainTeed and trusted to hold extended warranties. We install to specifications and have passed rigorous testing and inspections.

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Siding Installation Northern Virginia | Siding Repairs ...

Fiber cement is tougher than other materials Installing fiber cement siding

Fiber cement looks identical to wood once it's painted.

When you want the classic look of wood siding coupled with lifetime durability, fiber cement siding may well be your best choice. Fiber cement siding is a composite made of Portland cement, silica and wood fiber. Once painted, it looks almost identical to wood. It's available in many styles and widths, both smooth and wood textured, and you still get the crisp joints and details that'll make your home's exterior stand out. In addition, it's highly rot and insect resistant, won't burn and paints beautifully.

Jaime Venzor has been in the siding business for more than 15 years. He started out installing mostly vinyl, but now 80 percent of his work is fiber cement. He earned his good reputation with his customers by doing things the right way, and he earned our thanks by sharing some of his knowledge with us. So read on and learn what Jaime thinks are the most important tips.

Find your most beat-up pieces of siding and rip them down into 1-1/4-in. starter strips. These strips, installed at the bottom, will make your first row of siding angle out to match the rest of the rows. Snap a line 1 in. above the bottom of the wall sheathing as a guide. Install these fragile starter strips with a 15-gauge trim gun. Snap another line for the bottom row of siding, positioning it so it will hang down an additional 1/4 in. from the starter.

Fiber cement siding can be hand-nailed, but because its so much harder and more brittle than wood, you have to predrill holes near any edge. You can save yourself a bunch of time by using a pneumatic coil siding nail gun. Unfortunately, a siding gun will set you back twice as much as a 15-gauge trim gun, and its only half as versatile, so if installing fiber cement isnt your full-time gig, you may want to rent one (about $110 a week). Every manufacturer has specific nailing guidelines, but here are some basic rules:

Its a lot easier to preassemble corners on a flat surface. Jaime uses 2-1/4-in. galvanized nails in his 15-gauge trim gun. He uses the same size nails to install the corners on the wall. Dont use a framing gun or try to handnail the corners together; thats a good way to break the trim boards. Also, the trim nails look better where nails will be exposed, especially on a prefinished corner board. So, if you dont have a 15-gauge trim gun, what a perfect opportunity to go buy one ($115 and up at home centers).

Mark stud locations at the top and bottom of the wall. Staple building paper to the wall sheathing, lapping top pieces over bottom pieces by at least 2 in. Fit and slide paper behind the window trim.

Snap chalk lines to mark the frieze board location and nail treated furring strips along the lines. Keep the bottom strip 1/4 in. above the bottom line.

Cut the frieze board to length with a circular saw, using a rafter angle square as a cutting guide. True up cut ends with a rasp or a sanding block.

Predrill and nail the frieze boards, driving two galvanized box nails into each stud. Hold the nails at least 3/4 in. from the edges. Drive the nailheads snug with the surface of the siding. Do not overdrive them. Apply caulk at the corner lap joint before installing the second piece.

Install the corner boards, lapping one over the other with caulk in the joint. Nail every 16 in. with a pair of 8d galvanized box nails.

Lap inside corners the same way as outside corners.

The layout process is exactly the same as for wood siding. Mark the stud locations with a pencil on the soffit and foundation where they won't be covered by the building paper. Install the building paper (Photo 1), then follow your stud location marks and snap chalk lines (Photo 2) to guide both your nailing and your placement of siding joints. We're also using fiber cement trim boards. Since they're only 7/16 in. thick, rip 3/8-in. thick strips from treated 2-by lumber and use them to fur out the frieze boards (Photo 2). Now they'll sit about 1/8 in. above the lap siding.

Cut the frieze board to length (Photo 3). Fiber cement siding is highly abrasive. Even a carbide tooth blade will last for only part of the day. At home centers, you can buy diamond blades made specifically for cutting fiber cement. These blades cut quickly and create less dust. But we had success with a less expensive dry-cut, diamond masonry blade. Drill cutouts for electrical boxes and pipes with regular twist bits or spade bits, and make interior or even curved cuts with a jigsaw fitted with a tungsten or carbide grit blade (these blades are available at home centers and tile stores). Cutting fiber cement siding raises a lot of silica dust, so work outside and wear a dust mask.

Nail up the frieze board by drilling 1/8-in. pilot holes and driving two galvanized box nails at each stud (Photo 4). Your nail length may vary from ours depending on the type of exterior sheathing used on your home. In general, use nails that penetrate the studs at least 1 in. Drive the nailheads snug against the fiber cement board. If driven too deep, the heads will crush the fiber cement board and reduce the nail's holding power. Don't nail fiber cement corners together (Photo 4). A nail driven into the edge of a fiber cement board will split it.

Next make the outside corner (Photo 5), following the same steps as for the frieze boards. Be sure the bottoms of the corner boards cover about 1/2 in. of the foundation.

If you don't have access to a table saw, buy a sheet of 1/2-in.treated plywood and rip furring strips with a circular saw.

Cut outdoors, wear a dust mask to avoid breathing the dust, and keep others away.

Mark the top of each siding course using the story pole as a guide (see Making a Story Pole.). Then snap chalk lines to keep each course straight.

Nail a 3/8-in. treated starter strip along the bottom of the wall. Then cut and nail the first course of siding along the layout line. Leave a 1/8-in. gap at the end, and nail at each stud with a single 8d galvanized box nail held 1 in. down from the top edge.

Butt the siding courses tight together.

Leave a small gap between the siding and the corner trim.

With the trim boards completed, lay out the siding courses with a story pole. (See Making a Story Pole.) Hold the top of the story pole snug against the frieze board and mark out the siding courses (Photo 6) at all corners and around windows and doors. Following these layout marks, snap horizontal chalk lines. Remember that these layout lines represent the top of each siding course.

Rip and nail up a 3/8-in. thick treated wood starter strip along the bottom of the wall (above the foundation). This strip will tip the first piece of siding to the proper angle. Measure and cut to length the first piece of siding and nail it in place (Photo 7).

Leave a 1/8-in. gap where the end meets the corner board (Photo 7, inset) and make sure the other end lands on a stud line. Install the next piece so its end butts lightly against the first (Photo 7, inset). Continue with the siding courses, aligning the top edges to the layout chalk lines. Be sure to stagger the butt joints so they don't lie on top of each other as you work your way up.

Cut a straight 1x2 so its length runs from the frieze board to the bottom of the first siding course. Measure up from the bottom of the story pole to mark the full width of the first course of siding. Remember, this mark represents the top of the siding piece, not the bottom of the second course.

From this point, make marks up the pole at the recommended exposure for your siding. The top course should be at least two-thirds the width of the lower courses. Check your layout marks against window and door openings and other features around the house, and adjust the exposure to avoid having to rip narrow pieces.

When the final layout is OK, draw heavy lines on the face and both edges of the story pole using a square. Now hold the story pole tight against the frieze board at all corners and alongside windows and doors. Transfer the layout marks to the wall and snap chalk lines. This will ensure that all the siding courses go on straight and uniformly.

Pros use pneumatic coil nailers (you can rent one) designed specifically for fiber cement siding. They cut nailing time in half. If you go this route, practice first to make sure the nailheads will be set flush.

Prefinished fiber cement boards come with a protective plastic coating. To protect the paint from getting scratched during installation, leave the plastic on and make your cuts right through it. Peel away the plastic after the board has been fastened to the wall.

Caulking butt joints is unnecessary, and some manufacturers prohibit it. However, you should flash behind the joints. You can use metal, house wrap or any other approved WRB (weather-resistant barrier), but Jaime prefers to use 30-lb. felt paper. Its easy to work with and cheap, and it isnt noticeable if a seam happens to open up a little. Tack it to the wall so it doesn't get knocked out of place when you install the second piece of siding.

Fiber cement boards don't expand and contract much, but leave a little room for expansion at the end joints and then fill the gap with caulk. Butt joints, however, should be nailed tightly together and should not be caulked. Make sure all butt joints are on studs, and stagger the butt joints as you work your way up the wall.

Whether or not youre installing trim boards around your windows, youll need to install a drip cap over the window. Youll also need to leave a 1/4-in. gap (no caulking) between the top of the window and the plank or trim board directly above it. This is to allow any water that may have gotten behind the siding to weep out. Tape the drip cap to the wall, but dont tape all the way to the bottom of the drip cap because it will be visible through the 1/4-in. gap. The top trim board will also need its own drip cap and 1/4-in. gap. Treat the tops of doors the same way.

Fiber cement siding is heavy and breaks if it's bent too much. Installing this stuff by yourself is tough, but it's possible with the aid of siding gauges. These tools not only create the proper reveal (the part of the siding that shows) between rows but also actually hold the planks in place while you nail. Even if you do just one fiber cement job, siding gauges are worth the money.

A pair of the SA902 Gecko Gauges shown here costs about $85 (available though our affiliation with amazon.com), but cheaper versions are available. Most gauges are adjustable to accommodate reveals from 5 to 8 in.

We decided to use a prefinished product in this story, but the other way to go is simple primed siding. That material is primed and ready for you to paint. Here are some facts to consider when making your decision.

The advantages of primed: Primed products cost 50 percent less than prefinished products. On-site painting looks better up close because the touch-up paint and caulked areas arent as noticeable. Primed products are easier and less expensive to install.

The advantages of prefinished: The color on a prefinished product wont fade nearly as fast. Some finishes come with a 15-year warranty. But the best part of using a prefinished product is that after installation, youre done and not faced with painting an entire house.

When you're cutting this stuff, a dust mask is the bare minimum protection, and this is not a casual warning: The silica dust generated by cutting fiber cement can be bad news for your health!

You can buy fiber cement blades sized to fit any saw style or size for $20 and up at most home centers.

Tons of fiber cement cutting gadgets are available, but most jobs can be handled with just a steady eye and a standard circular saw fitted with a fiber cement blade. If you plan to hang a lot of fiber cement, though, you'll want a chop saw with a proper blade that will allow you to cut several pieces at once.

Most fiber cement manufacturers make mounting blocks for lights, electrical receptacles, A/C lines, PVC venting, etc. Jaime prefers to use the vinyl mounting blocks typically used with vinyl siding. Theyre cheaper and easy to install, and you can cut the proper-size hole in a plastic mounting block with a utility knife or a snips. With fiber cement blocks, you have to use a jigsaw or a hole saw.

MountMaster is one brand of blocks sold at Lowes and many lumberyards. Its available in more than 25 colors, but you can order paintable blocks if you want an exact match with your siding or trim.

Paint cut edges at butt joints.

Caulk edges that butt against corners and trim.

Every time you cut a plank, you create an exposed surface that has no primer or paint to protect it from the elements. If a cut edge is going to butt up against a corner post or trim board, it gets caulked. If the cut edge is part of a butt joint in the middle of the wall, it needs to be painted (try to use factory edges on all butt joints). Planks that have been cut to fit over windows and doors also need paint. Order paint kits and caulking to match both the trim and the siding colors. Your siding supplier should have access to both. Painting kits cost $15 to $20.

Fiber cement siding is not bulletproofit will deteriorate if exposed to water for a long time. Its imperative that you honor the proper spacing between the siding and the roof surfaces and between the siding and the horizontal surfaces, such as the ground or cement slabs and decks. Check with your specific manufacturer before you start. Here are some general guidelines.

Leave:

Kick-out flashing is essential for preventing water from running down a roof and behind the siding on an adjacent wall. Youll fail your inspection if the inspector doesnt see it on your job. Its a pain to work around, but it helps if you dont nail the flashing tight until you have your siding cut to size. Its much easier to get a proper fit for a plank if you can shift the flashing beneath it.

Hold the siding snug under the windowsill and mark the window edge location. Then measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Cut out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later. Predrill and nail at each stud, including under the window.

Drill a 3/8-in. hole at the corner with a standard twist drill bit. Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. Then nail up the piece of siding.

Notch to go around windows and doors. Be sure to allow a 1/8-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will be caulked later. Nail the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint will cover them.

Hold the siding snug under the windowsill and mark the window edge location. Then measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Cut out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later. Predrill and nail at each stud, including under the window.

Hold siding in place under wall penetrations such as this electrical box. Mark the width and height of the cutout. Caution: Turn off the power to the receptacle before removing it from the box.

Drill a 3/8-in. hole at the corner with a standard twist drill bit. Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. Then nail up the piece of siding.

Cut the top course of siding to width and nail at each stud. Leave a 1/8-in. gap at the top edge. Fill all 1/8-in. gaps with acrylic latex caulk.

Notch to go around windows and doors (Photos 8 and 9). Be sure to allow a 1/8-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will be caulked later. Nail the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint will cover them.

Water intrusion around wall penetrations can be a problem for any type of siding. Lay out and make the cutout for the electrical box (Photos 10 and 11). The electrical box cover is gasketed to seal out water. For pipes, electrical entries and similar fixtures, fit the siding as tightly as possible and then seal with a polyurethane caulk or non-hardening electrician's putty. Rip the top course of siding to width and nail it up (Photo 12). Hold these nails 1 in. below the top edge. Again, these nailheads will be exposed.

Buy the siding already primed. If you prime it yourself, use an alkali resistant primer. Caulk all the joints with an acrylic latex caulk before applying the final coats of paint. Be sure the caulk fills the 1/8-in. joint completely to keep it watertight. Finish-coat with a 100 percent acrylic latex paint.

If you live in a region of high rainfall or the wall is highly exposed to water, slip a 3-in. wide strip of building paper behind butt joints. Be sure the bottom edge of the paper laps on top of the lower course of siding.

Originally posted here:
How to Install Fiber Cement Siding | The Family Handyman

HardiePlank Lap Siding

HardiePlank lap siding is a factory-primed fiber cement lap siding available in a variety of styles and textures. It is also available with ColorPlus Technology as one of James Hardie's prefinished products. ColorPlus Technology is a factory applied, oven-baked finish available on a variety of James Hardie siding and trim products. See your local dealer for details and availability of products, colors and accessories.

HardiePlank Lap Siding Installation Instructions

HardieShingle siding is available as straight-edge panels or staggered-edge panels 48-in. long by 16-in. high. HardieShingle panels also come as decorative half-round shingles. For smaller coverage areas, individual shingles are also available. Please see your James Hardie dealer for availability of these products.

HardieShingle Siding Installation Instructions

HardiePanel vertical siding is available in a variety of sizes and textures. Textures include smooth, stucco, Cedarmill and Sierra 8. HardiePanel vertical siding is 5/16-in. thick and is available in 4x8, 4x9 and 4x10 sizes. Please see your local James Hardie dealer for texture and size availability.

HardiePanel Vertical Siding Installation Instructions

Artisan Lap siding from James Hardie is luxury, architectural-grade exterior building product. Manufactured with a unique tongue and groove assembly for superior dimensional stability, Artisan Lap resists shrinking, swelling and cracking as well as mold and mildew, termites, harsh weather and is non-combustible.

Artisan Lap Siding Installation Instructions

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Siding Installation Instructions - James Hardie Siding ...

Intro

Plywood panel or sheet siding offers one of the quickest and least expensive ways to cover a wall. These products have gotten a bad reputation in recent years due to reports of panels that buckle, delaminate, or come loose from the wall. But if you choose the panels and fasteners carefully and follow correct installation procedures, plywood panels can last a long time.

Cement-fiber panels are somewhat more water-repellent than plywood but should be installed with the same care as plywood. Hardboard panels are often the least expensive option, but they are easily damaged and soak up moisture like a proverbial sponge if not kept well covered with paint at all points.

Panels are typically available in 8- and 12-foot lengths. Longer panels may enable you to minimize the number of horizontal joints between panels.

Prestart Checklist

Time Working with a helper, about a day to install 1200 square feet

Tools Nail gun or hammer, circular saw, jigsaw, tape measure, story pole, chalk line, drill, flat pry bar, level, caulking gun, utility knife, tin snips, staple gun

Skills Measuring, laying out a job, driving nails, cutting with a power saw

Prep Cover the sheathing with building wrap and install trim boards and flashings.

Materials Siding panels, strips of felt, staples, board and flashing for the water table, stainless-steel or galvanized siding nails, primer or sealer

Read more from the original source:
Installing Panel Siding - How to Install Siding. DIY Advice

Where Your Siding Installation Estimate Comes From

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The cost of siding installation can be a wily number to track down. When youre on the hunt for estimates there arent very many contractors who want to fork out a list of prices without any guarantee of a new project to undertake. Installing siding is laborious to say the least, so it can be tricky to throw around numbers when talking price quotes. A siding installation estimate has a handful of determining factors, so knowing the breakdown can ease the frustration of finding the right price for home siding.

The simple cost of siding is the easier part of the process to ballpark. Siding prices are generally broken down by material cost. This estimate will include the price of the type of material itself, the amount of material needed, and the material quality. Prices will vary greatly from region to region and from siding type to siding type.

Please note that these are extremely loose numbers. For precise numbers on a home siding estimate, you have to seek the help of a siding professional. The cost of siding installation will vary greatly from house to house, so your home will have its own unique quote.

Aluminum Siding

Aluminum siding generally runs around $3 per square foot. Aluminum siding will cost anywhere from $3,000-$9,000, depending on the size of your home. A cozy bungalow will obviously cost less to side than that mansion on the hill.

Vinyl Siding

If youre going to go with the do-it-yourself method of installing siding, vinyl siding panels can cost you as little as $1 per square foot. Vinyl siding is one of the most popular materials for home siding available today, so its ease of installation and general accessibility is much wider than most siding options. Vinyl siding installation can save you money initially and in the long run.

If you don't have much home improvement experience, it may be wiser to go with the experience of a siding contractor, but know that this can up the cost by up to $6 per square foot. For an average sized residential home, youll be looking at around $3,500-$6,300.

Wood Siding

Wood siding installation will vary depending on lumber prices in your region, but wood siding is generally more expensive than vinyl or aluminum. If wood siding is what youre looking for, youre going to be spending at least $6,000 for a small home sided with pine. A large house can get up to the $25,000-$28,000 range if you side with cedar shakes.

Labor cost for siding installation will vary the most when youre searching for estimates. Its of utmost importance to search for several quotes when youre price shopping. You may find the work of a small, independent contractor to be more expensive than a contractor from a large home improvement company, but youll hopefully be paying for a higher level of customer service and quality. Finding the right contractor may be the most important part of your renovation project, so make sure your siding worker has all the right qualities to ensure your home will look as wonderful as youd hope it to be.

Get Your Siding Installation Costs Quotes

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Cost of Siding Installation A Breakdown on Your Estimate

If you've decided to side your home you've no doubt done your homework and selected the best quality products and accessories to realize your design dreams. But there's still some important legwork left to do. Even if you chose a top-of-the-line product, if your walls aren't straight and free of rot, or if the material is not installed correctly, your new siding won't look good. Even worse, it won't perform the way you planned. Review the following to avoid the fear factor and make sure you prep correctly, and hire an installer who'll meet your expectations.

Our Homeowners and home improvement professionals alike have long relied on Mastic Home Exteriors for their steadfast commitment to producing innovative home exterior products of unsurpassed quality and durability. Part of this commitment is providing in-depth installation instructions for our products. Masticproducts were designed and manufactured to perform best when installed by qualified applicators. While Mastic does not assume responsibility for installation of its products, it does keep installers informed on new techniques and provides detailed installation instructions on all of its products. We frequently update our installation manuals with new and improved methods of application. You should discuss any product adjustments with the dealer or applicator who did the work. The original dealer or applicator can best make these adjustments, since he or she will be most familiar with your installation.

To retrieve installation instructions for our products, simply download from the link below.

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To order a printed copy of installation instructions, contact Mastic at 800-962-6973 or by E-mail at support@masticsidinginfo.com.

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Installation - Installation | Mastic Home Exteriors

When youre updating your home siding, youre installing a first impression that youll see from the moment your home is in view, to the moment you walk up to the door. We understand that it's important to receive a quality value for the cost of your home siding; however, due to your homes customized specifications the cost of Champions home siding products and services will vary.

During our in-home consultations, Champions customer care associates will work with you to help discover the best options and savings opportunities for your home. Well discuss your homes uniquely customized needs, materials, and various other options that will help to improve the quality, durability, comfort, savings and overall beauty of your home.

Once weve been able to determine the right options for your homes roofing needs, we can better determine an exact price. We can also provide many easy and affordable financing offers to help choose the best financing solution for you.

Learn more about our financing options

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Siding, Home Siding Installation & Benefits | Champion

Installing fiber cement siding (FCS)such as HardiePlankis easier than you might think, though there are some important differences from traditional wood siding. Installation instructions may vary depending on the manufacturer, and check with your local building inspector for any code requirements.

Always follow these safety precautions when installing fiber cement siding:

Cutting fiber cement siding with a circular saw.

Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion resistant screws.

Putting up trim before installing fiber cement siding.

Begin by installing the inside and outside corners on the wall. These can be made from wood, vinyl, or thicker fiber cement products such as HardieTrim. Corners should be at least thicker than two stacked pieces of siding to allow room for caulking.

Fiber cement siding should be installed 6 or more above the grade level of the house with a 1 2 gap between horizontal surfaces like decks, steps, or adjacent roofs. Flash above doors and windows, leaving a gap between the flashing and siding. If youre working alone, overlap gauges can be used to support the siding while you nail it.

Blind nailing fiber cement siding.

Begin by attaching a 1 wide strip of FCS 1/8 above the bottom of the first row to provide the proper angle for the siding. Next, nail the first row of siding into the studs, leaving 1/8 gaps at the corner boards to allow for caulking. Blind nailing is preferable to face nailing, since any nail heads are hidden by the next row of siding. Nails do not need to be predrilled except near the ends.

Center joints over studs unless special metal off stud joiners are used. Joints should be butted loosely together with a 4 wide strip of 30 pound felt positioned behind each one. Make sure the felt overhangs the previous row of siding to keep water from running behind it if the caulking fails.

Each row of siding should overlap by 1 or more. A spacer stick with a notch cut the length of the exposed part of the siding makes alignment easy.

Use a square or level to check that the rows line up at corners. When notching the siding around doors and windows, hold it in place and mark each end. To determine the depth of the notch, hook the spacer stick on the previous row of siding and measure from the top of the stick to the window or door unit.

When cutting angles on gables, start by cutting a piece of scrap siding or wood to the proper angle then use it to mark each piece. To measure the top row of siding on horizontal eaves, hook the spacer stick on the previous row and measure up to the eave, then rip the siding to width.

Painting fiber cement siding.

While fiber cement siding should be painted as soon as possible after installation, factory primed FCS can go as long as six months without painting. Make sure it is clean and dry before painting. Caulk joints and ends first with a high quality latex caulking. Prime bare siding and any exposed cuts then topcoat with 100% acrylic latex paint.

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How to Install Fiber Cement Siding | Today's Homeowner

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If your home needs roofing work done, we can help you. If you are not experienced with roofing jobs and what is needed, we can walk you through the process. There are different roofing processes and materials that are used to fix roofs and we use our experience and knowledge to give you what you need

Whether you need Siding Repaired or New Siding Installed Custom Contracting Siding Installation and Repair Specialists will assist you in getting your Siding Problems solved right the first time and within budget.

When eavestroughs start to fail they can sag, clog, leak and even fall. Hiring Custom Contracting for your Eavestrough Repair is great preventative maintenance for your home youll significantly reduce the risk of serious damage later on down the road!

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Working with vinyl siding Lead image

You'll need specialty tools, like this zip tool, to work with vinyl siding.

Don't let the fact that you have vinyl siding deter you from that repair or remodeling project. If you want to shift a window, replace a door or even put on an addition, you can remove, alter and reinstall vinyl siding much more easily than any other type of siding. In this article, we're going to demonstrate how to rework the siding around a new set of windows.

We'll show you how to remove it, install new parts and then cut it, fit it and nail it back up. Most important, we'll show you how to make the installation watertight.

While we'll cover the basics, we won't cover every detail you might run into with your own project. Most manufacturers offer complete instructions; ask for them wherever vinyl siding is sold.

Working with vinyl doesn't require special skills, but you do have to understand the system. The only special tool you'll need for reworking areas is an unlocking tool, often called a zip tool.. (You'll need a snap-lock punch if you intend to cover new areas.) You'll probably need new trim pieces. We bought two typesJ-channel to go around the new, larger windows (Photo 9), and undersill trim (see When to Install Undersill Trim.).You may also need additional siding.

Vinyl siding is designed to hang loosely on the sheathing so that it can expand and contract with temperature changes. To prevent the relatively thin panels from buckling, observe these fitting and nailing rules.

You'll need a zip tool to remove siding.

Slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the siding, hook the locking edge and pull down. Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it. Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below. Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.

The zip tool slides under the siding to unlock it

Drive a flat bar between the nailheads and siding and carefully pull the nails. Then slide the piece down to unlock and remove it. Number each piece and set it aside. Remove siding until you expose enough wall to replace the window.

The beauty of vinyl is that you can remove a piece anywhere on the wall. Locate the piece you want to remove and unlock the one above it with the zip tool (Photo 1 inset). It might be tricky hooking the zip tool onto the locking edge if your siding is tight. Try starting at an end or look for a loose spot. Sometimes you can unzip it just with your fingers. If you're having difficulty with a particular lock, try moving up a course. New vinyl siding is quite flexible, especially in warm weather, but older siding becomes more brittle with age, so work carefully.

It should be easy to slide a flat bar behind the nailheads since they're not driven tight (Photo 2).Don't slide the flat bar behind the siding itself. You'll risk breaking it. You may have to bow each length of vinyl to release its ends from the trim moldings, and you may have to slide short pieces up or down past the window to release them from the J-channel.

Level and tack the new window in place, then cut a piece of aluminum flashing to width so it extends from the new window to overlap the nailing hem of the siding below. Slide the top edge under the window fin, then nail off the fin with roofing nails.

Slide 5-in. wide side flashing under the window's nailing fin. Make sure it laps over the bottom flashing at least 2 in. and extends 2 in. above the window's top. Nail off the window.

Slit the building paper about 2 in. above the window and slide 5-in. wide flashing behind it. Lap it over the side flashing and window nailing fin. Drive roofing nails at each corner to secure it.

Building paper is an important part of the wall's waterproofing. It's a barrier to any water that may work its way behind the siding, so be sure upper pieces lap over lower ones. Tape any tears or holes with housewrap tape (available at home centers).

Flashing is critical for a watertight window or door. Aluminum works best with vinyl. Buy a 10-in.wide roll of aluminum (at home centers), and cut it into 5-in.wide strips for the top and sides of the window. The width of the bottom flashing will vary. It must go under the window nailing fin and lap over the nailing hem of the vinyl siding (Photo 3). This will direct water to the front of the siding.

When you're done flashing the window, stand back and imagine water running down the wall. Start above the window and visually check that all building papers and flashing lap over the piece below it so water can't run behind.

Cut a section of new J-channel 2 in. longer than the width of the window. Mark out a notch 1 in. in from each end and deeply score the inner cutting line with a utility knife.

Make the last two cuts with snips. Bend the tab back and forth to snap it off (see Photo 8).

Position the J-channel under the window. Cut and position an undersill trim if necessary (see "When to Use Undersill Trim."). Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. through the middle of the slots. Don't drive them tight. The trim pieces should slide back and forth slightly.

Cut the side J-channel 2 in. longer than the height of the window. Make the miter cut on the bottom with shears. Cut a 1-in. notch on the top end as you did on the bottom J-channel. Lap the side over the bottom as shown. Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. to secure it.

Cut 45-degree miters in the side J-channel

Cut the top J-channel 2 in. longer than the window width. Cut and bend the profile shown (see detail) on both ends. Lap it over the sides as shown and nail it into place.

Cut and notch J-channel to fit over the top of the window.

You have to wrap the window with vinyl J-channel to divert water and to cover the ends of the siding (Photo 9).You'll probably have to buy new strips for this. Start with the bottom piece and work up to the top (Photos 6 10). Make sure the pieces overlap to keep out water.

Mitered corners give a clean and finished appearance. Be extra careful to fit the top channel correctly over the side pieces (Photo 10) because a lot of water can run over these joints.

Because the siding is beveled, the cut edge under a window may end up about 1/2 in. out from the wall. If it falls 1/4 in. or less away, add the undersill trim to lock it in place (shown). If it falls more than 1/4 in. away, skip the undersill trim and simply rely on the J-channel.

If you're working over foam sheathing, place a piece of plywood between the foam and flat bar to avoid crushing the foam.

Position the siding to be notched below the window. Mark it on each side of the window, allowing an extra 1/4-in. gap on each side for expansion. Measure from the locking tab of the siding below to the undersill trim to determine the depth of the notch.

Cut through the nailing hem with shears, then score deeply along the rip line with a utility knife. Bend back the piece to snap off the notch.

Position the notched piece under the window, sliding it into the undersill trim and pushing the butt edge against the locking tab in the lower siding course to snap it in place. Make sure the top edge is on the layout line, then drive roofing nails at each stud.

Drive nails so that the exposed shank equals the thickness of two layers of siding (1/16 in. to 1/8 in.). Don't drive nails all the way in.

Measure and notch the top piece over the window. If necessary, put a butt joint above the window to make it easier to install these final pieces. Lock the piece to the one below it, then nail it into place.

Finally, pull the last loose piece down and over the lock with the zip tool. Using your hand, push or pound the piece to lock it back into place. Work the piece into the lock down its length.

Maneuvering long pieces of vinyl into place can be tricky. Push one end of longer pieces into the trim, then bow the siding slightly and guide the other end into the trim.

Then slide it up and snap the butt into the locking edge of the piece below. Feed the shorter pieces alongside the window into the channel at the top of the window, and slide them down into position. Installing the piece above the window (Photo 15) was especially tricky because it was also the last piece (it would have been easier to remove one more course above).

We had to cut the piece and put a joint directly above the window. Then we cut a long length of extra siding to complete the row. Be sure to overlap butt joints 1 in. This method wouldn't work if you had to splice in new vinyl, because the colors wouldn't match.

Remove a piece of siding and identify it. Take it to a siding retailer or distributor. They'll identify the brand and style and should be able to direct you to the right source. Unfortunately, vinyl siding fades with age, so an exact color match may be impossible.

Be sure to save and reuse all the siding you remove. The trim pieces aren't as critical. If you have to add new siding, position it in an obscure spot, like the base of a wall or behind the garage. In fact, you may want to re-side an entire wall with new vinyl.

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How to Install Vinyl Siding | The Family Handyman