DON'T RUN SHORT!

1x8" Wood SidingTHIS is EIGHT inches?

Wood siding is often sold by the linear (or lineal) foot in 6", 8" and sometimes 10" and 12" widths. These widths are called NOMINAL "in name only" measurements. The ACTUAL or "dressed" width will be less.

BUYER BEWARE WARNING! Although there are wood siding industry standards like WWPA, WCLIB, WRCLA, CRA, NELMA - the actual thickness, width, pattern overlap and exposed face can vary from mill to mill. This variation can significantly impact the actual LFT VOLUME of wood you need to buy to cover YOUR specific SQFT area.

Be sure to confirm the DRESSED pattern measurements with the mill BEFORE you buy. Running a hundred SQFT short can cost $$$$ if custom milling and shipping are involved.

To figure out how many linear feet (LFT) of siding you need you must multiply the square foot area you need to COVER by a linear factor based on the siding width you have selected 6", 8", 10". The Lineal Foot Factor is derived by dividing 12 inches by the individual pattern's "exposed" face - the width that will be visible after the siding boards are installed.

A) Calculate the square footage in walls: length x height = area SQFT

B) Calculate, and then subtract, the square footage of doors and windows

C) Add 10% to cover trim and waste to (B) which gives you the estimated SQFT you need to cover

D) Find your pattern and nominal width in the table below

E) Multiply your estimated SQFT by the pattern's linear Foot factor

SQFT x LFT Factor = estimated Linear Feet you will need for the job. You MUST figure this out BEFORE you BUY!

When we quote your wood siding SQFT we will use the dimensions specific to the mill producing YOUR order. You will see those specifications on the confirmed quote BEFORE you commit to the order.There are NO hidden gotchas!

* assuming 3/8" board overlap

* assuming 1/2" board overlap

* assuming 1" board overlap

* assuming 1" board overlap

* assuming 3/8" overlap, allow 1/8" gap

* assuming 1/2" board overlap

* assuming 3/8" board overlap

* assuming recommended 2" board overlap

* assuming 1/2" board overlap. Note dressed dimensions are the same for both Rabbeted and NO Rabbet quarter log profiles

1x8" Pattern Coverage Example: If you are siding four walls 8 feet high by 40 feet long with 8" wide cedar siding boards and we allow 10% of the total square feet for openings, you would need approximately 2250-2450 linear feet depending on pattern selected:

These examples are for estimating only. They are based on industry pattern standards but CAN and WILL vary from mill to mill. Be sure to confirm these dimensions with the mill before you order!

Read the rest here:
Wood Siding Installation - Pattern Overlap and Area Coverage

A homes siding can have a large impact on how the property looks and feels. Not only is siding the first thing you notice when looking at a home, but siding affects climate control, energy efficiency, and water resistance.

If your siding no longer looks or functions at its best, come to Unique Home Solutions. We offer one of the most trusted types of vinyl siding in the industry for Indianapolis, IN, homeowners, as well as residents of Cleveland and Columbus, OH.

We pride ourselves on using only the high-quality, American made products that we would choose for our own homes to ensure that our clients get the most value from their investments. Our form of siding is CraneBoard Solid CoRe siding.

This product offers the following benefits:

In addition to a great product, we back our siding installation with a warranty that includes labor. If the siding does fade, Unique Home Solutions will re-match colors.

For more than three decades, Unique Home Solutions has provided Indianapolis area homeowners with innovating home exterior and interior solutions. Weve worked hard to build trust here in our primary service area, as well as our expanded service areas of Columbus and Cleveland, OH.

One of the ways that we have established and maintained trust between our clients is by providing the best possible products and services. We fully stand behind CraneBoard Solid CoRe siding, and to ensure that your vinyl siding lasts, all installations are handled by our manufacturer-trained employee crews.

Call us today at 800-800-1971 to schedule a free onsite estimate for your siding replacement.

See the article here:
Siding Installation in Indianapolis, IN | Unique Home Solutions

Sheathing/Backerboard

Vinyl siding should be applied over a sheathing that provides a smooth, flat surface. Consult local building codes for sheathing requirements. Vinyl siding must never be applied directly to studs without sheathing. As an alternative, installation of specific types of drop-in contoured foam underlayments for various styles of vinyl siding are available. Some manufacturers of vinyl siding do not recommend the use of drop-in backers with certain vinyl siding configurations.

Vinyl siding can be installed over common wood sheathings such as plywood, oriented strand board (OSB), or other materials (e.g., foam plastic insulating sheathing). The thickness of wood sheathing counts toward the total thickness that the fasteners must penetrate into nailable material, usually 1 1/4 (32mm). But foam plastic sheathing does not contribute toward holding the fastener, so its thickness cannot be counted toward the total. In this case, the fastener would have to be long enough to penetrate through the sheathing and 1 1/4 (32mm) into the wood framing.

Vinyl siding should be installed over a continuous water-resistive barrier to stop the intrusion of incidental water. Refer to Important Notes for more information on water-resistive barriers. Check your local building code for requirements in your geographic area.

Code-compliant flashing should be integrated with the water-resistive barrier and applied around windows, doors, and other openings. Flashing should also be applied to inside and outside corners, and the intersection of walls and roofing to prevent water infiltration.

Read the original post:
How to Install Vinyl Siding - Vinyl Siding Institute - VSI

To protect your home and maximize its curb appeal, look to Kearns Brothers to replace your old siding with CertainTeed vinyl or James Hardie fiber-cement products. Installation of either of these high-quality siding products not only extends the life of your home, it gives you peace of mind. Both are virtually maintenance free and contain no asbestos.

Plus, you get the benefit of our installation experience and expertise. Our siding crews have more than 210 years of combined experience siding homes in the Detroit area. Were recognized as a CertainTeed Master Craftsman, a James Hardie Preferred Contractor and a Five-Star Green Siding and Trim Contractor.

Kearns Brothers offers vinyl siding products from industry leader CertainTeed in a wide range of colors, styles and textures. CertainTeed vinyl siding products offer homeowners a number of benefits:

Economical compared to other siding options. Durable and virtually maintenance free the siding wont peel, fade, crack or corrode. Backed by a lifetime limited warranty for up to 50 years following installation. Produced without the use of harmful chemicals.

If youre looking for another siding option that offers both beauty and durability, consider fiber-cement siding from James Hardie, a world leader in the manufacture of fiber-cement building products.

Its a perfect replacement for your old siding, particularly asbestos material. Its also great for repairing damaged shingles or replacing siding around new windows. Its many benefits include:

Available in a variety of colors, or can be pre-primed so you can match the paint color to your existing palette. Down the road, the color can be changed, unlike with vinyl siding. Fireproof Meets or exceeds UL-approved non-combustible testing as per ASTM E136 and UL 723. Extremely weather resistant. Rot, swell, insect and salt-spray resistant. Seams dont overlap, which prevents mold and mildew growth.

The Product A 30-year limited non-prorated warranty on material defect

The Painted Finished Product A ColorPlus Technology 15-year limited warranty against pitting, peeling and flaking

CertainTeed Siding Products Simply put, if our product fails due to a manufacturing defect, we will stand behind it(For more information on CertainTeeds complete warranty visit their website)

Link:
Siding Contractors Specializing in Vinyl Siding Installation

Looking at national averages and data can help a homeowner get a general idea of the cost of siding installation in Ilion, but it will not get them an exact number. Ilion siding installation costs will be affected due to labor rates, material costs, and any permits or licenses required. With that in mind figuring out a local average cost for siding installation in Ilion is highly recommended before starting such a project.

In 2018 our data concluded that the amount homeowners paid for siding installation in the Herkimer county ranged from $4,819.00 to $6,567.00.

Estimates for siding installation change from state to state and city to city. Below is listed what is usually included and what is usually not included in Ilion siding installation estimates from local professionals.

It may be beneficial and strategic to compare the costs from cities surrounding the Ilion area as well. Homeowners usually compare Ilion siding installation with Siding Installation near Herkimer in order to determine a better price range.

View post:
Siding Installation in Ilion, NY | Get Matched With Local ...

House wrap or sheathing insulation board that helps insulate and level out the exterior of a house is recommended.

Some manufacturers strongly recommend against the use of drop-in type foam or fiberboard behind its vinyl siding. This type of insulation may change and flatten the specialty built-in contour of the panel, causing the siding to bulge or ripple.

1. Snap chalk line.Find the lowest corner of the old siding or sheathing on the house. Partly drive a nail 11/2 in. higher than the lowest corner. Stretch a chalk line from this nail to a similar nail at next corner. Be sure line is level. Snap chalk line and repeat same procedure around entire house.

2. Installing starter strip.Position starter strip with the top edge of chalk line and allow room for corner posts. Nail to wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. When the wall surface is uneven, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the finished siding job. Drive nails to remove excessive play in starter, but do not nail tightly restricting movement. As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4 in. space between strips for expansion [fig. D]

3. Installing inside corner posts.Inside corner posts are installed at the existing corners, running from 3/4 in. below the bottom of the starter strip. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distance below the underside of eaves for soffit installation accessories (which vary according to the accessory used). Set corner posts straight and true. Nail them to the adjoining walls, beginning at the top, placing nails at the top of the uppermost nailing slots, allowing the posts to hang on these nails. The rest of the nails should be placed every 8 in. to 12 in. in the center of the nail slots. This will allow vertical expansion of the corner posts. Do not nail tight.

4. Splicing inside corner posts.If more than one length of inside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: Cut 1 in. off all but the outer face of the upper portion of the lower corner post. Then lay 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post, allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. E].

5. Installing outside corner posts.Position the outside corner post to allow 1/4 in. gap at the top where the post will meet the eaves. Cut the post long enough to extend past the bottom of the starter strip by 3/4 in. If vinyl soffit is to be installed, allow proper distances (which vary according to the accessory used) below the underside of the eaves. Attach the posts by placing a nail in the top of the upper slot on each side. Posts will hang on these two nails. The rest of the nails should be placed in the center of the slots, 8 in. to 12 in. on center. This allows for expansion and contraction to occur at the bottom. Do not nail tight.

6. Splicing outside corner posts.If more than one length of outside corner post is required, make a splice as follows: cut 1 in. of the nailing flanges and receiving channel stops away from the bottom portion of the upper post. Then lap 3/4 in. of the upper post over the lower post allowing 1/4 in. for expansion [fig. F].

7. Capping outside corner posts.Cut 2 1/2 in. flaps as shown in Fig. G. Bend the flaps to close off the post. A rivet can be used if needed.

8. Installing J channel around windows and doors.Install J channel around all four sides of window and doors. Install the J channel against the casing and nail it to the wall, following nailing instructions in Important Installation Tips. Do not nail tight. [fig. H].

9. Square corner J channel installation.Cut and install bottom J flush with the sides of the window casing. Install side J channels flush with the lower face of the bottom J channel and with the top of the window casing. Cut a tab in the bottom of the side J channels and fold under. Cut and install top J flush with the outer face of the side Js. Cut and bend drain tab.

10. Mitering corners of the J channel.Install bottom J channel to extend past side casing the width of the J-face on each end. Cut out a 3/4 in. notch in the back of each end and install. Cut a 3/4 in. notch in the bottom of side J channels and bend tab. Miter bottom side J to give a false mitered appearance when installed.

11. Installing first siding panel.Snap bottom of panel into starter strip and nail to wall as in Important Installation Tips. Begin panel installation at back corner of house and work toward house front. Leave a 1/4 in. space where panel butts corner post. Note: siding should be lapped away from high traffic areas, i.e., doors, sidewalks, etc.

12. Overlap joints.Overlap each panel 1 in. to 11/4 in. of the factory prenotched cutouts. Last nail should be at least 10 in. from end of panel to allow neat lap.

13. Installing balance of siding.After completing the first course, work your way up. Start each course at back of house and continue toward front. Stagger joints properly, lapping them away from street and entrance. Leave a 1/4 in. gap where panels butt corner posts and J channel around window. Allow 3/8 in. when installing in freezing weather (below 40) [fig. I]. Note: For best visual appearance, do not stair step or concentrate lap joints too closely.

14. Fitting siding under windows.When you reach a window, you probably will have to cut siding panel to fit under the opening. Make this panel extend on both sides of the window. Measure the panel to fit. Holding the siding panel under the window, mark the width of the opening on the panel allowing 1/4 in. clearance on each window side. Next, lock a scrap piece of siding into the panel below, butting against the window. Mark the height needed, allowing 1/4 in. clearance below the sill. Measure both sides of the window opening this way. Use the scrap piece as a guide to mark horizontal cuts on the siding panel [fig. J].

15. Cutting siding to fit.Make vertical cuts on the siding panel with saw or snips. Then score horizontally with a utility knife and snap out section to be removed.

16. Cutting siding around window.Install undersill trim the width of the window flush to the casing. Furring may be necessary to maintain proper pitch of the siding. Using the snap-lock punch, punch the panel 1/4 in. below the cut edge at 6 in. intervals. The resulting raised lugs should face outward and will snap into undersill trim.

17. Fitting siding over windows.Measure and cut panel to fit. Measure and cut panel in the same manner detailed in step 14 but cut lower portion instead of top. Be sure to check both sides for proper fit. Install panel. Drop siding panel into J channel around top of window and install.

18. Finishing top row of siding under eaves.Nail the undersill trim to the sidewall, flush with the eave of house. It may be necessary to fur out the undersill trim to maintain proper pitch of the top siding panel. More than one length of undersill trim may be required under the eave and will need to be spliced.

19. Fitting top siding panel.Measure and cut top panel to fit. To determine how much of the top panel must be cut off, measure the distance between the top of under-sill trim and the lock of the panel below, then deduct 1/4 in. Cut top siding panel to this dimension. The panel will no longer have a nailing strip after cutting [fig. K].

20. Snap locking top panel.Punch top panel with snap-lock punch. Insert cut panel into trim and draw a line on panel where they meet. Usingsnap-lock punch tool, punch the panel on top of this lineevery 6 in. so raised material is on the outside face.

21. Installing top panel.Lock bottom of panel into panel below and push top edge into undersill trim. The raised slots will catch and hold the panel firmly in place. DO NOT FACE NAIL SIDING.

22. Finishing top course under gable.First nail J channel to sidewall flush with gable as described in Important Installation Tips. If more than one length of J channel is required to finish one side of gable, a splice will be needed. To cut panels on proper angle, use two scrap pieces of siding to make a pattern for cutting. Interlock one panel with the siding panel below, hold the other piece on top against the gable. Then mark a line on bottom piece and cut. This piece is now a pattern for cutting panels to fit along one side of gable. Follow the same procedure to make pattern for other side [fig. L]. Lock pre-cut siding panel into siding panel below and slide siding panel into J channel.

Read more:
Install Vinyl Siding - Lowe's Home Improvement

To get the best performance out of your siding, it needs to be installed correctly the first time by experienced professionals. The siding specialists at Beldon Siding are highly trained and well-versed on installation best practices for James Hardie HardiePlank siding, an industry-leading product. This includes having knowledge of how to properly make cuts to the fiber cement board to minimize dust, how to firmly fasten the product to the home and which types of hangers to use, how to perform touch-ups to boards featuring ColorPlus Technology, and even how to properly remove boards from pallet stacks to avoid causing damage. In addition to following all outlined James Hardie installation specifications, which will help keep the manufacturers outstanding 30-year, non-prorated, transferable limited warranty intact, our siding installers will comply with all local building codes and regulations, so you can count on a quality siding installation job that will provide your home with decades of beauty and protection.

During the installation of your siding, we can also install matching soffit panels that can provide attic ventilation and protection for eaves and porch ceilings. Plus, we offer HardieTrim Board in multiple styles so, whether you desire a rustic, modern, or traditional look, we have the perfect finishing touch.

To learn more about the installation process for James Hardie fiber cement siding, contact Beldon Siding today.

Continued here:
Siding Installation | James Hardie

Get professional-looking, watertight results with these residing techniques.

Youll need specialty tools, like this zip tool, to work with installing vinyl siding.

Dont let the fact that you have vinyl siding installation deter you from that repair or remodeling project. If you want to shift a window, replace a door or even put on an addition, you can remove, alter and reinstall vinyl siding much more easily than any other type of siding. In this article, were going to demonstrate how to rework the siding around a new set of windows.

Well show you how to remove it, and learn tips for installing vinyl siding new parts. Well also show you how to cut it, fit it and nail it back up. Most important, well show you how to make the installation watertight.

While well cover the basics, we wont cover every detail you might run into with your own project. Most manufacturers offer complete instructions; ask for them wherever vinyl siding is sold.

Working with vinyl doesnt require special skills, but you do have to understand the system. The only special tool youll need for reworking areas is an unlocking tool, often called a zip tool.. (Youll need a snap-lock punch if you intend to cover new areas.) Youll probably need new trim pieces. We bought two types-J-channel to go around the new, larger windows (Photo 9), and undersill trim (see When to Install Undersill Trim.).You may also need additional siding.

Vinyl siding installation is designed to hang loosely on the sheathing so that it can expand and contract with temperature changes. To prevent the relatively thin panels from buckling, observe these fitting and nailing rules.

Youll need a zip tool to remove siding.

Slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the siding, hook the locking edge and pull down. Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it. Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below. Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.

The zip tool slides under the siding to unlock it

Drive a flat bar between the nailheads and siding and carefully pull the nails. Then slide the piece down to unlock and remove it. Number each piece and set it aside. Remove siding until you expose enough wall to replace the window.

The beauty of vinyl is that you can remove a piece anywhere on the wall. Locate the piece you want to remove and unlock the one above it with the zip tool (Photo 1 inset). It might be tricky hooking the zip tool onto the locking edge if your siding is tight. Try starting at an end or look for a loose spot. Sometimes you can unzip it just with your fingers. If youre having difficulty with a particular lock, try moving up a course. New vinyl siding is quite flexible, especially in warm weather, but older siding becomes more brittle with age, so work carefully.

It should be easy to slide a flat bar behind the nailheads since theyre not driven tight (Photo 2).Dont slide the flat bar behind the siding itself. Youll risk breaking it. You may have to bow each length of vinyl to release its ends from the trim moldings, and you may have to slide short pieces up or down past the window to release them from the J-channel.

Level and tack the new window in place, then cut a piece of aluminum flashing to width so it extends from the new window to overlap the nailing hem of the siding below. Slide the top edge under the window fin, then nail off the fin with roofing nails.

Slide 5-in. wide side flashing under the windows nailing fin. Make sure it laps over the bottom flashing at least 2 in. and extends 2 in. above the windows top. Nail off the window.

Slit the building paper about 2 in. above the window and slide 5-in. wide flashing behind it. Lap it over the side flashing and window nailing fin. Drive roofing nails at each corner to secure it.

Building paper is an important part of the walls waterproofing. Its a barrier to any water that may work its way behind the siding, so be sure upper pieces lap over lower ones. Tape any tears or holes with housewrap tape (available at home centers).

Flashing is critical for a watertight window or door. Aluminum works best with vinyl. Buy a 10-in.wide roll of aluminum (at home centers), and cut it into 5-in.wide strips for the top and sides of the window. The width of the bottom flashing will vary. It must go under the window nailing fin and lap over the nailing hem of the vinyl siding (Photo 3). This will direct water to the front of the siding.

When youre done flashing the window, stand back and imagine water running down the wall. Start above the window and visually check that all building papers and flashing lap over the piece below it so water cant run behind.

Cut a section of new J-channel 2 in. longer than the width of the window. Mark out a notch 1 in. in from each end and deeply score the inner cutting line with a utility knife.

Make the last two cuts with snips. Bend the tab back and forth to snap it off (see Photo 8).

Position the J-channel under the window. Cut and position an undersill trim if necessary (see When to Use Undersill Trim.). Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. through the middle of the slots. Dont drive them tight. The trim pieces should slide back and forth slightly.

Cut the side J-channel 2 in. longer than the height of the window. Make the miter cut on the bottom with shears. Cut a 1-in. notch on the top end as you did on the bottom J-channel. Lap the side over the bottom as shown. Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. to secure it.

Cut 45-degree miters in the side J-channel

Cut the top J-channel 2 in. longer than the window width. Cut and bend the profile shown (see detail) on both ends. Lap it over the sides as shown and nail it into place.

Cut and notch J-channel to fit over the top of the window.

You have to wrap the window with vinyl J-channel to divert water and to cover the ends of the siding (Photo 9).Youll probably have to buy new strips for this. Start with the bottom piece and work up to the top (Photos 6 10). Make sure the pieces overlap to keep out water.

Mitered corners give a clean and finished appearance. Be extra careful to fit the top channel correctly over the side pieces (Photo 10) because a lot of water can run over these joints.

Because the siding is beveled, the cut edge under a window may end up about 1/2 in. out from the wall. If it falls 1/4 in. or less away, add the undersill trim to lock it in place (shown). If it falls more than 1/4 in. away, skip the undersill trim and simply rely on the J-channel.

If youre working over foam sheathing, place a piece of plywood between the foam and flat bar to avoid crushing the foam.

Position the siding to be notched below the window. Mark it on each side of the window, allowing an extra 1/4-in. gap on each side for expansion. Measure from the locking tab of the siding below to the undersill trim to determine the depth of the notch.

Cut through the nailing hem with shears, then score deeply along the rip line with a utility knife. Bend back the piece to snap off the notch.

Position the notched piece under the window, sliding it into the undersill trim and pushing the butt edge against the locking tab in the lower siding course to snap it in place. Make sure the top edge is on the layout line, then drive roofing nails at each stud.

Drive nails so that the exposed shank equals the thickness of two layers of siding (1/16 in. to 1/8 in.). Dont drive nails all the way in.

Measure and notch the top piece over the window. If necessary, put a butt joint above the window to make it easier to install these final pieces. Lock the piece to the one below it, then nail it into place.

Finally, pull the last loose piece down and over the lock with the zip tool. Using your hand, push or pound the piece to lock it back into place. Work the piece into the lock down its length.

Maneuvering long pieces of vinyl into place can be tricky. Push one end of longer pieces into the trim, then bow the siding slightly and guide the other end into the trim.

Then slide it up and snap the butt into the locking edge of the piece below. Feed the shorter pieces alongside the window into the channel at the top of the window, and slide them down into position. Installing the piece above the window (Photo 15) was especially tricky because it was also the last piece (it would have been easier to remove one more course above).

We had to cut the piece and put a joint directly above the window. Then we cut a long length of extra siding to complete the row. Be sure to overlap butt joints 1 in. This method wouldnt work if you had to splice in new vinyl, because the colors wouldnt match.

Remove a piece of siding and identify it. Take it to a siding retailer or distributor. Theyll identify the brand and style and should be able to direct you to the right source. Unfortunately, vinyl siding fades with age, so an exact color match may be impossible.

Be sure to save and reuse all the siding you remove. The trim pieces arent as critical. If you have to add new siding, position it in an obscure spot, like the base of a wall or behind the garage. In fact, you may want to re-side an entire wall with new vinyl.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Go here to see the original:
How to Install Vinyl Siding | Family Handyman

Flashing Installation

Before installing siding, make sure that flashings are installed to prevent moisture from entering wall and roof spaces. Flashing is an important line of defense in controlling moisture in wall assemblies. Flashing intercepts and directs the flow of water away from the building to designed drainage paths. Install horizontal flashing extending from the top of all wall penetrations (ie all windows and doors) and at any material or material directional change (ie. bandboards, water tables or the introduction of any alternative material). The flashing should tilt downward to allow water to drain away from the wall. Siding or trim should be inch above the flashing ledge. Do not caulk where the flashing and trim or other materials meet. Note that caulking in lieu of flashing is not acceptable.

The purpose of flashing window and door headers is to intercept water behind the siding and direct it to the outside, and to redirect water flowing down the face of the wall to flow away from the wall opening.

Moisture can accumulate behind the siding as a result of:

Some moisture will drain through the weepholes at the bottom of each piece of siding. An additional head trim flashing is required at the head of the window/door to direct water further outward, beyond the thickness of the window

The purpose of fascia flashing is to support the shingle edge and to provide a drip edge to prevent water from running back underneath the roofing shingles and down along the fascia and soffit.

Preformed eaves flashing/drip edge should be installed under the starter course of the shingle roofing. The extension of flashing supports the edge of shingles. If eaves troughs (rain gutters) are used, the flashing edge also helps to direct the water into troughs. Fascia flashing protects both the soffit and the fascia board, and provides a drip edge at the bottom edge to direct water away from the building.

Use high-performance acrylic-latex, acrylic, acrylic-silicone, polyurethane, polysulfide or terpolymer rubber caulks or sealants to seal gaps around windows, doors, corners, and other exterior joints that are exposed to potential water intrusion. Pure silicone and clear caulks do not work well on Western Red Cedar and are not recommended. Caulking is not a permanent solution and as such requires regular maintenance. If not inspected and maintained, caulking may fail and trap water, creating severe moisture problems. Do not rely on it as the only barrier to moisture penetration. Do not caulk areas that will prevent moisture from escaping the wall cavity (e.g., under windows and around flashing).

Siding and Trim that extends down to a roof (dormers, second floors, etc.) and decks requires a minimum of a 2 inch gap to avoid wicking. Trim, such as water table or skirt boards must be a minimum of 6 inches above the grade.

There are two main methods used for outside corners. The choice depends primarily on the desired appearance but also the experience and skill of the installer. Mitered corners offer a professional looking finish. They are most commonly used with horizontally applied siding applications such as bevel. Mitered corners require good carpentry skills. They must fit tightly for the full depth of the miter.

Corner boards are a popular and easier alternative to mitered corners. Thickness of the corner board will depend on the thickness of the siding. The most common are 3/4 inch or 1-1/4 inches thick. Width is a matter of taste and proper proportion. Corner boards are applied to the sheathing with siding fitting tightly against the narrow edge of the boards, allowing for expansion and an adequate caulking bead. The corner boards and the ends of the siding are nailed to the corner studs which anchors the wood for a maintenance-free joint. Designing roofs with an eaves overhang to protect corners from weathering also helps ensure trouble-free joints. Always apply primer or stain end cuts. With corner boards, there is the choice of applying them next to the siding or over top of the siding as shown here.

As in the above illustration, at inside corners, siding is frequently butted against a 2 x 2 trim strip. It can also be butted against adjoining walls with a trim strip used to cover the joint.

When butt jointing siding, cut ends at 45 degree angles to form an overlapping joint. This is particularly important for vertical installation. Ensure joints meet on studs, blocking or furring strips with the nail penetrating solid wood at least 1-1/4 inches.

All installers should learn and follow best practices in order to deliver a better job for their customer and reduce call backs.

Here is the original post:
Siding General Installation - Real Cedar

","latitude":40.0391686,"longitude":-75.5520301},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Certitude Home Improvements+ see more information ","latitude":40.0435809,"longitude":-75.518706},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"JDT Construction+ see more information ","latitude":40.044466,"longitude":-75.5814733},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Hancock Building Assoc Inc+ see more information ","latitude":40.0855059,"longitude":-75.5044443},{"type":"point","balloon_text":"Sarafinas Home Repair+ see more information 610-613-7136

Devon, PA 19333

Exton, PA 19341

West Chester, PA 19382

King Of Prussia, PA 19406

Malvern, PA 19355

Malvern, PA 19355

Malvern, PA 19355

Paoli, PA 19301

West Chester, PA 19381

1710 E Lancaster Ave Ste 338

Paoli, PA 19301

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Chesterbrook, PA 19087

Devon, PA 19333

West Chester, PA 19380

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Kimberton, PA 19442

Newtown Square, PA 19073

1210 Westtown - Thorton Road

Westtown, PA 19395

1210 Westtown Thornton Rd

West Chester, PA 19382

Phoenixville, PA 19460

Downingtown, PA 19335

Exton, PA 19341

310 Perkiomen Ave

PO Box 993

Oaks, PA 19456

West Chester, PA 19382

West Chester, PA 19382

600 Brandywine Ave Ste 800

Downingtown, PA 19335

Downingtown, PA 19335

Spring City, PA 19475

Glen Mills, PA 19342

Royersford, PA 19468

Downingtown, PA 19335

Read more:
ICON Composite Siding - Siding - CertainTeed