Europe Construction Products Marketis expected to reach US$ 157.97 Billion by 2026 from US$ 90.77 Billion in 2017 at CAGR of 6.35%.

Europe Construction Products Market Europe construction products market is segmented by product type, end user, and geography. Based on product type, Europe construction products market is divided by siding, trim, and structural subfloors. Sliding is estimated to boost the market during forecast period due to rising construction activities and projects in commercial and non-commercial sector. Trim segment is expected to register highest CAGR during forecast period due to its ability to transform the look of infrastructure within low cost. On the basis of end user, Europe construction products market is classified by commercial building and residential building.

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Commercial building is estimated to hold largest share of market in forecast period due to increased industrialization, rising demand for improved infrastructure, rise in migration, and increasing technological advancements. Major driving factors for the Europe construction products market are increasing demand for new buildings and renovations of existing buildings, rising technological advancement, increase construction activities and projects in commercial and non-commercial sector, rising investment in construction of roads and housing projects, increased investments in R&D, rising trend of automation, rising demand protection for exterior and interior infrastructure, increasing construction industries, government is focusing on globalization and industrialization and at same time poor quality material, high cost of materials, and lack of skilled labour for installation will hamper the market.

In terms of geography, Europe construction products market is segmented by Germany, U.K., France, Italy, Spain, and Rest of Europe. Germany is estimated to hold largest share of market in forecast period due to large number of manufacturing players presence and rise industrialization in this country. Key players studies, analyzed, profiled and benchmarked in Europe construction products market are Wienerberger Baustoffindustrie AG, Holzplast LLC, U-Kon System, Royal Europa Sp. z o.o, Hanson Building Products Limited, Hekim Construction Inc., Kingspan Group, Leier International, and RHEINZINK.

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The Scope of Report Construction Products MarketEurope Construction Products Market, by Product Type Siding o Plastic o Brick o Wood o Others Trim o Wood o Fiber Cement o Brick o Others Structural Subfloors

Europe Construction Products Market, by End User Commercial Building Residential Building

Europe Construction Products Market, by Geography Germany U.K. France Italy Spain Rest of Europe

Key Players, Europe Construction Products Market Wienerberger Baustoffindustrie AG Holzplast LLC U-Kon System Royal Europa Sp. z o.o Hanson Building Products Limited Hekim Construction Inc. Kingspan Group Leier International RHEINZINK

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Europe Construction Products Market Globally Expected to Drive Growth through 2026 - Guru Online News

Sheet panel siding is an affordable option for covering a home's exterior. These products have gotten a bad reputation in recent years due to reports of panels that buckle, delaminate, or come loose from the wall. But if you choose the panels and fasteners carefully and follow correct installation procedures, plywood panels can last a long time.

Cement-fiber panels are somewhat more water-repellent than plywood but should be installed with the same care as plywood. Hardboard panels are often the least expensive option, but they are easily damaged and soak up moisture like a proverbial sponge if not kept well covered with paint at all points.

Panels are typically available in 8- and 12-foot lengths. Longer panels may enable you to minimize the number of horizontal joints between panels. Either way, expect to spend about a day installing 1200 square feet of panel with a helper. Before you begin, cover the sheathing with building wrap and install trim boards and flashings.

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Installing Panel Siding | Better Homes & Gardens

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Siding is an essential part of your home that adds beauty and keeps the weather out. A fresh exterior can add major curb appeal and increase the value of your home. A new siding installation can cost between $5,000 and $25,000, varying in price depending on the size of your home and materials used, but most spend around $8,500. Learn more about the types of materials available and the factors that affect the cost of installation.

If your homes existing siding has rotten wood or peeling paint, your options are to attempt a repair or completely replace it. You should consider that the cost of replacement will likely be more than the cost of a repair.

If the overall condition of your homes siding is good but has a small area in poor shape, then a repair may be a good idea. Sometimes all thats needed is a simple coat of paint. If the overall condition of the homes siding is in poor shape or doesnt match your taste, then replacement should be considered.

Find Qualified Siding Professionals in Your Area

Before replacing siding it is important to get multiple quotes and ask contractors for recent references. Verify that contractors are licensed and insured, and check out their online reviews. Get free estimates from a local home exterior installers.

There are lots of different options for siding materials, and you should choose a desired style to match your style and enhance your homes curb appeal. Budget, style, durability, and maintenance are all deciding factors when choosing the right material for your home.

Vinyl is a very popular siding option, chosen for its low maintenance and durability. Vinyl often costs $3 to $11 per ft2 for labor and materials. Vinyl is available in many grades and styles, including clapboard, shingle, brick, and stone. Our vinyl siding calculator can help estimate vinyl panels and trims needed and approximate the material cost.

Aluminum siding is an excellent alternative to wood and vinyl for its resistance to moisture and does not get brittle in cold weather. Aluminum usually costs $3 to $7 per ft2 for labor and materials. One drawback to aluminum is that it is relatively thin and tends to dent easily.

Cedar shakes offer a unique texture and an attractive look. Cedar shake siding usually costs $4 to $8 per ft2 for labor and materials to install, but adding a finish such as paint can add to that cost. Use our siding squares calculator to estimate cedar shake material for your project.

Cedar clapboard siding offers a traditional look and can be painted or left natural. Expect to spend around $5 to $9 per ft2 for labor and materials to install it. Cedar is naturally rot and insect resistant making it a great choice. Use our clapboard calculator to estimate how many boards your home will need.

Fiber cement siding such as James Hardie offers the beautiful look of cedar but is much more durable. Most spend $5 to $11 per ft2 to have it installed. Fiber cement is much more durable than wood due to its rot resistance and is also fire resistance. Our clapboard calculator can also estimate fiber cement boards. Learn more about how to install fiber cement siding.

Brick offers a classic look to your home and is available in full brick or a veneer. Brick usually costs $7 to $15 per ft2 installed. Its very durable but is time consuming to install and should be installed by an experienced mason. Stone is another popular choice and is often more expensive than brick, though the price varies. Check out our brick calculator can help estimate your brick project.

Stucco is an attractive option and is extremely long-lasting. Stucco often costs $7 to $12 per ft2 to install. Though more expensive than some of the alternatives, stucco can pay for itself in the long run due to its low maintenance costs and durability.

The cost of your siding project can vary based on several variables, such as the size of your home, selected materials, complexity of the project, and geographic location. Get several estimates and ask questions to understand what goes into the cost of your project.

Size of the home: It should not surprise you that the size of the house is a significant factor in determining the siding installation cost. Larger homes require more materials and take more time to complete the installation.

Project complexity: The cost of a siding project will be more if the homes exterior is more complex. Taller homes require scaffolding for crews to work on, homes with more windows and corners require more trim and cutting, and homes with a lot of detail work such as curves or moldings will need more precision work.

Tear-off: Removing old siding can cost an extra $1,000 to $2,000 if its needed.

House wrap or insulation: If house wrap or insulation needs to be installed prior to installing siding expect the costs to rise for the additional materials and time.

Geographic location: Labor rates vary throughout the country, and your siding project may cost more or less based on where you live and the cost of labor in your area.

Replacing your siding is a major investment that can add curb appeal to your home. Consider several options when choosing the material for your home and find the solution that works best for your budget and preferences.

All pricing information on this page is based on average industry costs, and is subject to variance for project-specific materials, labor rates, and requirements.

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Cost to Install Siding - 2019 Exterior Siding Prices ...

You've heard of board-and-batten as a trendy interior wall finishing, but did you know you can also use the material as siding? True board-and-batten is made with vertically installed wide boards and narrow battens fastened over the gaps between the boards. In appearance, board-and-batten siding can look rustic or modern, depending on how rough the lumber is and its finish.

Perhaps the most common arrangement uses 1x10 boards and 1x2 or 1x3 batten. You can also use 1x8 or 1x12 boards and 1x4 battens. To seal out moisture, the boards should be in sound condition and free of open knots, and the battens should lap at least 3/4 inch onto the boards on both sides. Cedar is a good lumber choice because it is soft; harder wood, such as pressure-treated pine, will not seal as well and is more likely to crack. Board-and-batten can be installed onto solid plywood or OSBsheathing. If your sheathing is not solid, you will need to first attach horizontal furring strips.

With a helper, expect to spend a day installing 800 square feet of siding. Before you begin, cover the sheathing with building wrap and install trim boards and flashings. Also make sure you're comfortable measuring, laying out a job, driving nails, and cutting with a power saw.

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Step-by-step instructions: How to install Hardie Board lap siding, HardiePlank lap siding, and siding products, trim and more. Follow these instructions for a long-lasting installation.

HardiePlank or Hardie board lap siding products carry a 30-year warranty and installation is not much different than installing regular wood lap siding.

Fiber cement lap siding is a long-lasting durable product that installs in much the same way as regular lap siding. Hardie Board is a lap siding product manufactured by the James Hardie Corporation. Installing your own Hardie Board siding wont break your back or your budget.

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HardiePlank lap siding is a fiber cement siding product that doesnt rot and carries a 30-year warranty. It comes in a variety of colors and two surface finishessmooth and a texture the company calls Cedarmill. The Cedarmill texture looks very much like real wood.

After installation, you can paint the product with 100 percent acrylic paint to change the color if desired. Doing your own Hardie board lap siding installation takes about the same amount of labor as installing real wood lap siding and saves you a considerable amount of money on labor costs.

After removal of the old siding, new house wrap should be installed to provide a water barrier between the new siding and the homes plywood or OSB sheathing. Trim corners first so that the correct gap between the trim and siding is maintained.

The James Hardie company offers fiber cement trim boards in various widths for use as corner trim, fascia, soffits, rakes, and batten boards to complete your Hardie board installation.

Measure up from the ground 6 inches plus the width of one plank at a corner and make a mark on both sides of the corner. You must maintain a 6-inch clearance between the ground and the planks and a 2-inch clearance between finished surfaces like deck boards, concrete, steps or sidewalks and roofing materials or flashing.

Place a laser level on the mark pointing at the next corner. Use the laser to mark the next corner and snap a chalk line between the marks. Extend the chalk line around the house using the laser to mark the subsequent corner.

Place a corner trim piece against the corner and make it flush with the edge of the corner. Nail it in place with two siding nails every 16 inches. Place the second piece of corner trim on the opposite side of the corner flush with the outside edge of the first piece. Nail it to the house framing with two siding nails every 16 inches. Do all the corners before continuing.

Hold a HardiePlank siding board with the top edge against the chalk line and 1/8 inch away from the corner trim. Nail the board to the house every 16 to 24 inches with a roofing nail along the nail line printed on the top of the siding board.

Measure down from the top of the installed board 1 1/4 inches every four feet and make a mark. Hold the next board on these marks and nail with siding nails along the nail line. You can also buy clips that hold the siding planks in place with the 1 1/4-inch overlap and break off after the planks are nailed.

The planks may be scored and snapped similar to cutting drywall by using a carbide scoring knife. Another method uses a special James Hardie supplied saw blade on a circular saw equipped with a vacuum to gather the fiber cement dust which is hazardous to your health. Always wear a dust mask when cutting fiber cement products.

Hardie board installation will require joints between planks. Join factory edges and place the cut edges against the corner trim boards. Caulking joints are unnecessary, but flashing behind the joints is required. Cut a piece of 6-inch wide steel coil trim about 1 inch longer than the width of a siding board and place it behind the joint. Nail it to the house sheathing with a roofing nail.

Caulk the corners where the siding meets the corner trim. Use an exterior grade, paintable latex caulk. Run a 1/4 inch bead of caulk to cover the gap left between the trim boards and the lap siding.

To complete your Hardie board lap siding installation, paint primed HardiePlank within 180 days of installation and unprimed HardiePlank within 90 days of installation. ColorPlus products are coated at the factory and dont require painting.

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Spacing for the siding should be laid out beforehand. The number of board spaces between the soffit and bottom of the lowest piece of siding at the foundation should be such that the overlap is as per the table.

Start with the bottom course using a furring strip to support the lower edge. Each succeeding course overlaps the upper edge of the previous one by a minimum of 1 inch. Rabbeted patterns are self-spacing, but leave 1/8 inch expansion clearance. Where possible, the bottom of the board that is placed across the top of the windows should coincide with the window cap.

Bevel siding should be face nailed to studs with 1-1/4 inch penetration into solid wood using one nail per piece spaced at a maximum of 24 inches on center. Place nail just above the overlap. Take care not to nail through the overlap of two pieces.

Do not reduce the siding overlap recommendations given in the installation sections of this publication. Doing so could result in damage from wind-driven water. Use the larger overlaps for unseasoned sidings to allow for shrinkage and expansion. Take care not to overdrive fasteners when using larger overlaps. Butt joints between boards should be staggered and meet on studs. Fit siding snugly to other pieces and to trim.

*These overlap recommendations must be followed for proper installation.

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Installing Western Red Cedar Bevel Siding - Real Cedar

If you've decided to side your home you've no doubt done your homework and selected the best quality products and accessories to realize your design dreams. But there's still some important legwork left to do. Even if you chose a top-of-the-line product, if your walls aren't straight and free of rot, or if the material is not installed correctly, your new siding won't look good. Even worse, it won't perform the way you planned. Review the following to avoid the fear factor and make sure you prep correctly, and hire an installer who'll meet your expectations.

Homeowners and home improvement professionals alike have long relied on the unsurpassed quality and durability of the innovative home products of GeorgiaPacificVinyl Siding and Accessories. Part of this commitment is providing in-depth installation instructions for our products. GeorgiaPacificVinyl Siding and Accessories products were designed and manufactured to perform best when installed by qualified applicators. While Ply Gem does not assume responsibility for installation of its products, it does keep installers informed on new techniques and provides detailed installation instructions on all of its products. We frequently update our installation manuals with new and improved methods of application. You should discuss any product adjustments with the dealer or applicator who did the work. The original dealer or applicator can best make these adjustments, since he or she will be most familiar with your installation.

To retrieve installation instructions for our products, simply download from the link below.

Adobe Acrobat Reader must be installed to view PDFs.Download Adobe Acrobat Reader

Georgia-PacificVinyl Siding and Accessories Installation Manual

Shutter Mounting Clips Installation Instructions

Vinyl Skirting Installation Guide (Bilingual)

Mantel Installation Instructions

Pilaster Installation Instructions

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Installation - Georgia-Pacific Vinyl Siding and Accessories

If you want siding for your home that looks great and is durable, but requires little maintenance, look no further. Vinyl siding is designed to withstand weather and resist moisture damage. It can have the look of wood siding, without the ongoing work and expense.

Save Big with Vinyl Siding

You'll pay about the same as wood siding, but you have the option to go less expensive with vinyl. If you install it yourself, you'll find even greater savings. In addition, you won't have extra maintenance costs through the years because it wont crack, rot or splinter.

Find Vinyl in a Variety of StylesFor a classic look, choose materials that have a woodgrain texture. Dutch Lap white siding by Cellwood looks great and is styled with a recessed curve along each plank. Try Veranda bead board siding, which can be installed right over traditional bead board.

Update your older home with an easy DIY repair job using clip-on super corners. It only takes a few minutes to install them over any faded or damaged corners. It makes worn siding look new again.

If you go with vinyl siding, you can have a beautiful home without the work of caulking or painting. Simply clean with soap and water to keep it looking brand new.

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Experienced Edmonton Hardie board installers know that messy caulking is the easiest and fastest way to ruin a perfectly good Hardie exterior.

You probably know that Hardie siding is made of fiber cement, which requires installers to take care when cutting to make sure that they dont breathe in small sand (silica) particles. Continued exposure to these particles can lead to severe long-term health issues for workers if it isnt managed correctly. Once the Hardie siding is installed, there is no health risk for the homeowner from silica.

The other issue with James Hardie dust is that it sticks to ColorPlus paint. James Hardie developed ColorPlus paint so that it sticks very well to fiber cement. That means that if installers dont wipe dust off the Hardie right away, the dust can settle and start to stick to the paint. The longer the dust sits on the board, the tougher it is to remove.

Luckily, this issue is pretty easy to solve. Contractors should make sure that their cut station is outfitted with a clean cloth so the cutter can wipe the dust off right away. Another option is to suggest that the contractor use a dust free fiber cement tool, like a shear or a guillotine.

Reducing cut dust is good for the health of the workers as well as the look of your home!

Almost all nails and screws have some kind of rust-resistant coating, but they are not all created equal. Hardie board comes with a 30-year manufacturers warranty, but that means you need the nails to last at least that long too. James Hardie recommends that nails be hot dip galvanized or stainless steel. Anything less and the nails may start to rust, leading to stains on your beautiful siding. Even worse, siding could start falling off!

When your installers are getting started, make sure you take a look and confirm that the nails they are using are at least hot dip galvanized, not electro-galvanized. It should say right on the box.

This one isnt a mistake so much as a pet peeve of mine, but it still can make a big difference in the look of your home.

Most of the Hardie Trim installed across Canada is flat and smooth, and installed with finish nails. If the installers do a perfect job of driving the nails flush and touching up, Hardie Trim with finish nails looks fantastic.

In practice, this is very difficult for installers to do. Hardie Trim has grooves on the backside to give it more strength when workers are carrying it. This means that in some places on the board, the nail has about 20% less material to get through. This can lead to the finish nails sinking into the board.

When the nails countersink, it leaves a hole that the installer either has to fill or paint. Since every full Hardie Trim board should have at least 18 finish nails, you can expect between 5 and 10 nails per trim to countersink and leave a mark.

To solve this issue, James Hardie came up with a hidden fastening system for their trims. Installers can staple aluminum tabs to the back of the trims and then nail the tab to the wood sheathing on the wall. They will still need to use the odd face nail to make sure everything sits tight, especially around windows, but Hardies trim tab system can eliminate about 90% of all face nailing on a normal house.

There are a few reasons why a contractor shouldnt use tabs. For example, if you are planning to replace your windows a few years after replacing your siding, tabs will make the trims much tougher to remove. For most people though, trim tabs give a more predictable result with smooth trim.

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10 Most Common Install Errors with James Hardie Siding ...

In This Guide:

Installing siding of any kind is a big investment in your home so its important that the installation be done properly to ensure that it is watertight, looks great and will stand the test of time.

Vinyl siding is one of the most durable and affordable ways a homeowner can protect their property from storms, moisture, and insects. One way to save money on the installation of siding is to avoid some labor costs by doing some of the removal and installation yourself.

With this guide, a few tools, and some DIY experience and confidence, you can remove and install vinyl siding yourself.

Installing any kind of siding involves a lot of time and effort, and there are many details that must not be overlooked. However, vinyl is much easier to remove, modify and install than any other type of siding, so dont let it deter you if you want to add a new window, move a door or build an addition.

Here, well describe how to rework vinyl siding around a new window. This will give you the basics for an entire job, and cover the finish areas as well. For in-depth instructions and advice specific to the style and type youre working with, ask the manufacturer or retailer for a copy of their complete installation manual.

In this guide well discuss:

Besides the tools listed below, you may also need a snap-lock punch if you plan to install siding in new areas, such as on an addition or a boarded-in space where the old window resided. The zip (unlocking) tool is a specialized tool that is needed for reworking areas.

You will also need new trim pieces, because those usually break when they are removed, and are not reusable. For this example, well need J-channel for around the new windows as well as undersill trim.

Tools & Equipment Required

Materials Required

Dont scrimp on this part. Its always better to have a few linear feet of siding left over than to run out before you finish the job. Besides, you want enough to make repairs if necessary.

Using a measuring tape from the ground or a ladder, do your best to get measurements of each section that will have siding installed.

To calculate the area, simply multiply the height by the width of each rectangular section in feet. This gives you the area in square feet.

Measure/approximate the width and height of gables and other triangular sections by measuring at the highest and widest points. Multiply the height by the width and divide that number by 2 to get the area of the triangle.

Dont subtract any square footage for doors and windows. You may need this extra to get the perfect fit for your siding. Once you have all your measurements, add them together for the total square feet.

Now that you have the total square feet, divide by 100. That number is how many squares of siding you will need. One square = 100 square feet.

Here youll learn how to remove the existing siding, apply the moisture barrier and window flashing, install a J-channel, and lastly secure the siding.

a) Unlock siding using a zip tool

Mark the strip of vinyl you want to remove. Then, slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the strip ABOVE the one you want to remove. Youll hook the edge that is locked to the lower, damaged strip. Slide the tool to the side, and it will unzip the seam.

Unzipping the vinyl may be difficult if it is old, because it may have become quite brittle. If you cant get the zip tool into the preferred spot, try moving up one course. Dont be horrified if the siding unzips without a tool. With newer siding, you can often just use your hands.

Once you unzip the two pieces, you can lift the upper, undamaged strip and see the nail strip to the damaged vinyl.

Be sure to mark the top of the course so you know where to place the replacement vinyl. This helps with level, too. Then, you are ready to start pulling nails.

b) Pull out the nails

The nails have not been driven in tightly if the previous installation was done correctly. Its important to leave a little wiggle room so the vinyl strips can expand and contract with temperature fluctuations.

Since the nails are not flush with the wall it will be easier to fit a pry bar beneath them to pull them out. It is important, at this point, to remember to keep the pry bar or claw hammer off of the siding. Otherwise, you may break the strip.

Now that you have the nails removed, it is time to lower the strip of siding. Be sure to number it so that you know where it came from and where it should go. Lower the strip so that it releases the vinyl below it. If the end of the strip is tucked into trim, bow it to pull it out. Right around the window, you may have to move shorter pieces up and down to get them to release from the J-channel.

Continue in this manner until you have removed enough siding to replace the window.

c) Matching Your siding

It is important to save all of the siding you remove. You may need to reuse it. The trim pieces can be replaced, and are hard to remove without damaging them. Take a section of siding to your home improvement center and see if they can match it with new siding.

Vinyl siding will fade as it ages. Professionals will often remove faded siding from a less conspicuous section of the house, and use it on more visible window sections. You can put the new siding on the less visible spot. In some cases, you may need to put replace an entire wall with new vinyl.

d) Surface preparation

Check all wood trim and replace any boards that are damaged or rotted. Make sure all loose boards are nailed into place.

Thoroughly scrape all of the old caulk off of the doors and windows. This old caulk can get in the way when you are trying to position the new trim.

Go ahead and take down any attachments to the outside of the area you are working on. Downspouts, moldings, lights, or decorations will interfere with your work. They need to be reinstalled on top of the new siding, anyway, to make them watertight.

You may want to cut off any window sill extension. This will allow you to install new trim, flush with the casing.

Protect landscaping. Any shrubbery should be tied out of the way.

As mentioned before, vinyl siding is designed to be installed loosely, so it can respond to temperature variations without damage. You want to keep the individual panels from buckling. To do that, fit it in this way:

There should be a inch gap at each end. The trim pieces will cover the gap. It is crucial that the panels are able to expand and contract behind the trim without being inhibited.

You will lock the panel into the panel below it. Pull it up snugly, without creating a great deal of torque. Nail it into place.

There are slots for the nails. Center a nail in a slot and drive it in, leaving a little wiggle room for the panel. The shank of the nail should be exposed by about 1/16 of an inch.

Proper installation of the building paper and flashing are crucial to protecting your investment. It serves as a moisture barrier that keeps any moisture that gets past the siding from saturating the walls of your home.

The flashing is crucial for creating a watertight seal around windows and doors. With vinyl siding, aluminum is the best material for flashing. It usually comes in 10-inch-wide rolls that can be cut into 5-inch-wide strips with the tinners snips. This will be used at the top and sides of your window.

a) Install the building paper

Starting at the bottom of the wall, install the building paper. Overlap the next piece over the lower piece as you move up the wall. If there are any tears in the paper, tape over them with housewrap tape. Tape the overlap, too.

b) Install the flashing under the window

Place the new window in its opening, and tack it into place. The width of flashing you use beneath the window will be based on the placement of your vinyl strips. It should be wide enough to slip under the bottom edge of the fin and overlap the nail strip of the siding below it. When installed this way, any moisture will be redirected to the front of the siding.

c) Install flashing next to the window

Cut 5-inch strips of flashing that are 2 inches taller than the window and will overlap the bottom flashing by 2 inches. Install the flashing from the bottom up.

The 5-inch-wide flashing should slide right under the nailing fin on the window. Secure it.

d) Place flashing over the window

Once you have the bottom and side flashing installed around the window, cut a slit in the building paper 2 inches above the window.

Remember, at this point, you still dont have flashing above it.

Now you will take a 5-inch strip of flashing and slide it up under the slit above the window. The bottom of the flashing should overlap the side strips of flashing and the nailing fin. Secure the flashing.

Here is where you step back and study your work. Imagine water running down the side of your house. The building paper and siding should overlap top to bottom, so that any water will slide down the side, rather than building up in seams of paper or flashing.

The next step in waterproofing your window is to install the J-channel. This goes all around the window, and youll need new strips. You work from the bottom up with this step as well, overlapping top to bottom.

It will look much better if you miter the corners. This gives it a clean, professional look. Be sure that the top channel fits correctly over the side pieces, because this area will channel a lot of water.

a) Notch the J-channel

You will cut a strip of J-channel that is 2 inches longer than the window is wide. Mark a spot 1 inch from each end, and use your utility knife to score the J-channel on those lines.

b) Finish the notches with tin snips

Youll make the last 2 cuts with your tinners snips. To get the tab off, bend it forward and back until it snaps.

c) Install J-channel underneath

Hold the J-channel beneath the window, then cut and position the undersill trim if you are using it. (Check the section When to Install Undersill Trim.) Youll now drive roofing nails into the slots, spacing them about 8 to 10 inches apart. As with the siding, dont drive the nails in flush. The trim pieces need to slide back and forth a little bit.

d) Cut J-channel for the sides

The sides piece of J-channel should also be 2 inches longer than you actually need, based on the height of the window. Youll make the same miter on the bottom. Youll also cut that 1-inch notch on the top end. Be sure to lap the side piece over the bottom, then secure it with roofing nails the way you did the bottom.

e) Side J-channel detail

Cut 45-degree in the side J-channel.

f) Cut J-channel for the top

This piece will be 2 inches wider than the window. Cut both ends and bend them, lapping them over the side pieces. Nail it into place.

g) Top J-channel detail

To finish the J-channel, cut and notch the top piece to fit above the window.

The siding is beveled, and the cut edge beneath a window may end up gapping as much as a half inch. If this edge is within inch of the edge, an undersill trim will lock it down. If it is over inch from the cut edge, just use the J-channel.

This is where it can get a little tricky, because it can be hard to maneuver those long strips of vinyl into place. Start at the bottom of the wall and work your way up.

Start with fitting the end under the trim. Then, bow the strip of siding and place the other end under the trim. One the ends are tucked in, slide the strip upward and snap it into the locking edge of the plank below it.

Around the window you will feed the shorter sections at the sides into the channel located at the top. Slide each piece down and snap it into place.

In our example, we needed to remove one more course above the window. We ended up cutting the piece and placing a joint above the window, and then completed the row with a longer length of vinyl. Overlap all of the butt joints by 1 inch and do not caulk the joints. If you have to use new vinyl, the colors wont match.

a) Mark the cuts for siding under the window

Place the siding that has to be notched under the window. When you mark each side, add a inch to the width to allow for expansion. To get the depth of the notch, measure the distance from the locking tab on the siding below to the undersill trim.

b) Cut the siding to fit under windows

Use the snips to cut through the nailing hem. Then, use the utility knife to score the plank, and bend it to snap off the notch.

c) Install the notched siding

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How to Install Vinyl Siding in 21 Steps | Siding Authority