Siding your home? Home inspector talks strengths, weaknesses of different materials  WPR

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Siding your home? Home inspector talks strengths, weaknesses of different materials - WPR

Restoration Roofing NTX Expands Services with Focus on Roof and Siding Solutions in McKinney  openPR

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Restoration Roofing NTX Expands Services with Focus on Roof and Siding Solutions in McKinney - openPR

Understand how the following factors can affect your overall siding costs to accurately budget for your project.

Individual siding materials tend to come in multiple styles. Vinyl is a great example with a variety of looks and textures to choose from. Traditional vinyl lap costs just $2 to $6 per square foot on average, while products that mimic the look of wood, brick or stone cost an average of $5 to $10 per square foot.

The shape and size of your home will impact the amount of material and how long it takes to install your siding. Multiple stories, dormers and unusual roof angles are all factors that can increase siding installation costs.

Where you live will affect your ability to find or ship the materials you need. Vinyl holds up well to cold temperatures and is readily available in northern states. On the other hand, it tends to warp or crack in extreme heat, so its not used or stocked as often in southern states.

Siding removal costs $1,000 to $2,500. While vinyl and aluminum can commonly be installed over other siding, many materials require a clean base for installation. You may incur additional labor and disposal costs if the new siding you choose cant cover the existing siding.

With your materials selected and labor accounted for, there are a few other elements to factor into your siding installation budget.

Some types of siding can also be painted, with exterior painting costs averaging $3,000 for an entire house. Paint can also be an alternative to installing new siding as long as the previous siding isnt damaged. A fresh coat of paint provides a fresh look for renewed curb appeal.

Once your siding is installed, youll pay an average of $1,800 for trim. This finishing element lines the edges, doors and windows of a home and is often included in the total price for siding.

Every local municipality will have different codes for the permits and inspections needed to install new siding. Simple repairs may not require a permit. However, because updating the siding material on an entire home can involve major changes with tax assessment implications, youll want to contact your local planning or development authority for an application. Expect permits to cost anywhere from $150 to $3,000 for siding installation.

Whether youre looking for a unique custom color shade or a highly specific trim style to complement your siding materials, expect an added expense for these special-order customizations.

No matter what type of siding you choose, it will look better and last longer with regular maintenance. Vinyl siding requires almost no maintenance costs since you can rinse it with gentle soap and water. Other materials like stucco, brick or stone should be maintained by a pro who can properly replace mortar. Wood siding can be maintained by a homeowner, but involves expenses related to painting, staining and sealing from moisture and mold.

More:
How Much Does It Cost To Install Siding In 2024? - Forbes

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United Roofing & Siding is a top-rated roofing company. In a recent update, the company explained the most prevalent roof installation mistakes to avoid. Albany, NY - In a website post, United Roofing & Siding explained the most prevalent roof installation mistakes to avoid.

The roofing contractors Albany, NY [https://www.unitedroofingservicellc.com/symbol-of-democracy-new-york-state-capitol-in-albany-ny/] said that one of the most common mistakes in roof installation is improper measuring and cutting of roofing materials. This can lead to gaps, overlaps, and uneven edges, which can compromise the performance and integrity of the roof. It is crucial to accurately measure and cut the materials to fit the roof's dimensions precisely.

The roofing contractors in Albany [https://www.google.com/maps?cid=8576518558066702249] mentioned that another frequent mistake is not properly securing the roofing materials. Many inexperienced roofers may not be aware of the necessary number of fasteners or the correct placement of them. This can result in loose or missing shingles, exposing the roof to water leaks and wind damage. This mistake can be avoided by following the manufacturer's guidelines and using the appropriate number of fasteners for the specific roofing materials being installed.

The technicians added that overlooking proper ventilation is a common mistake in Albany roof installation. Proper ventilation is essential to a healthy roof, as it helps regulate moisture and temperature. Improper ventilation can lead to roof damage, such as warping, cracking, and premature aging. It is crucial to ensure that the roof has proper ventilation before and during the installation process to avoid future problems.

Location: https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d374446.3843909535!2d-73.7667062!3d42.84408095!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x4ebf6ea4a6162da1%3A0x7705ea302f1c77a9!2sUnited Roofing %26 Siding!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sph!4v1714657402974!5m2!1sen!2sph

About United Roofing & Siding

United Roofing & Siding [https://www.unitedroofingservicellc.com/] is a leading roofing company. The professionals understand the importance of a solid and functional roof. That is why they strive to deliver exceptional service and craftsmanship on every project. The team of certified roofers is constantly staying apprised of the latest industry standards and strategies to provide customers with the best solutions for their roofs. Media Contact Company Name: United Roofing & Siding Contact Person: Manuel Tacuri Email: Send Email [http://www.universalpressrelease.com/?pr=united-roofing-siding-explains-the-most-prevalent-roof-installation-mistakes-to-avoid] Phone: (518) 524-5087 City: Albany State: New York Country: United States Website: https://www.unitedroofingservicellc.com/

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United Roofing & Siding Explains the Most Prevalent Roof Installation Mistakes to Avoid - openPR

The main cost factors to consider when budgeting for a fiber cement siding project are the type of siding you choose and the square footage youll need to cover.

Fiber cement siding typically costs between $5 and $15 per square foot to install, which includes materials and labor. But costs can be higher depending on the type of siding you choose and whether there are any hard-to-reach areas or obstacles that the contractor will need to spend extra time navigating.

There are three main types of fiber cement siding. The type you choose will affect your final costs.

Planks

Fiber cement planks are long, narrow strips that look similar to traditional wooden planks, but theyre more durable and weather-resistant. You can install them in vertical or horizontal configurations depending on the look youre going for. These planks usually cost between $4 and $6 per square foot, not including labor.

Shingles

Fiber cement shingles are designed to look like wooden shingles. They feature relatively small individual pieces that are often used to cover smaller areas or create decorative patterns. Fiber cement shingles cost between $2 and $6 per square foot not including labor.

Panels

Fiber cement panels are large flat sheets that give homes a sleek, minimalist look thanks to their smooth, uniform appearance. You can expect to pay between $3 and $15 per square foot for these panels not including labor.

In some cases, your location can affect the cost to install fiber cement siding. Generally, it costs more to install siding in areas with higher costs of living, such as large cities. The availability of materials in your area can also affect your costs.

Link:
Cost To Install Fiber Cement Siding: Per Square Foot, By Type And More Forbes Home - Forbes

The AuburnCode Enforcement Office issued the following permits from Sept. 11 to Sept. 17:

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 111 feet of chain link fence for owner Michael Gambuzza at 37 Grover St., $8,725.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 20 feet of vinyl fence for owner Nancy Phillips at 87 N. Division St., $2,388.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 28 feet of vinyl fence for owner Mark Querns at 71 N. Fulton St., $2,968.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 114 feet of vinyl fence for owner William Ashby at 110 N. Marvine Ave., $6,788.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 181 feet of vinyl fence for owner Wm. and Patricia Rankin at 30 Prospect St., $15,930.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 175 feet of wood fence for owner Bonnie Lee Bent at 97 Lansing St., $9,200.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 253 feet of vinyl fence for owner Michael and Marie Didio at 6 Clymer St., $14,150.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 89 feet of wood fence for owner Emily Parisi at 205-207 Perrine Ave., $4,700.

Monserrate Rooker install above ground pool at 27 Holley St., $0.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 101 feet of vinyl fence for owner John Eric Minnick at 19 Swift St., $6,460.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 245 feet of wood fence for owner Douglas Hillman at 60 Burt Ave., $13,600.

Connor Fence Co. Inc. install 110 feet of chain link fence for owner James Alberry at 26 Westwood Drive, $3,594.

Erin Katzker install shed at 127 Mary St., $2,200.

BAPA 149 Grant Ave. RE LLC complete commercial remodel of Dunkin Donuts interior and exterior at 149 Grant Ave., $95,000.

Renovations Unlimited replace siding and soffit and back porch for owner Jason Teeter at 30-34 S. Lewis St., $31,000.

LS Roofing LLC install metal roof for owner Stephen Bersani at 21 Charles St., $19,900.

Erie Home tear off and replace roof for owner Allen Lathrop at 38 S. Lewis St., 18,046.

Woodford Bros Inc. repair existing garage for owner Michael Gambuzza at 37 Grover St., $36,278.

Trevor Bechtel Bechtel Realty LLC replace side concrete ramp with composite porch and stairs at 197 Genesee St., $7,000.

Helmer Construction partially tear off and replace roof for owner Robert Quigley at 21 Logan St., $1,500.

Dana Botindari tear off and replace roof for owner Jill OHearn at 120 Mary St., $10,000.

James Main replace existing back porch at 64 Lansing St., $1,400.

James Desocio install siding at 123 Pulsifer Drive, $5,000.

Jeanne Kuhfta install 96 feet of vinyl fence at 99 Swift St., $2,000.

Diana Brown install new front porch at 84 Capitol St., $1,200.

All In Roofing & Construction LLC tear off and replace roof for owner Margaret Symonds at 29 Boston Ave., $18,000.

Tuff Shed Inc. install shed for owner Lynn Oristian at 22 Orchard St., $2,125.

Lakeside Roofing tear off and replace roof for owner Robert Elser at 81 Prospect St., $17,000.

Realty@Mark Indelicato LLC remodel apartment kitchen at 23 Columbus St., $2,900.

LS Roofing LLC install metal roof for owner MOCCA Properties LLC at 95 Washington St., $18,900.

LS Roofing LLC install metal roof for owner Rachel Bailey at 13 Aurelius Ave., $15,900.

William A. and Patricia Delanoy install shed at 23 Capitol St., $3,600.

Kenneth Adams re-shingle one layer of roof at 138 Clymer St., $10,000.

Visit the records page of auburnpub.com to see The Citizen's latest police blotter, restaurant inspections, property transfers and building permits.

Some upgrades increase your homes value without having to spend too much money or needing a full renovation. PennyGems Johana Restrepo has more.

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City of Auburn building permits: Oct. 14, 2023 - The Citizen

In 2011, a tsunami destroyed the beloved Hawaiian resort Kona Village. For five decades, the Big Island hideaway was known for its paradisal location on Kahuwai Bay and a relaxed, convivial vibe; families returned year after year. Frequent collaborators Greg Warner, cofounder/partner at Walker Warner Architects, and Nicole Hollis, creative director and principal of the eponymous interior design studio, had the formidable task of formulating the next iteration of the property: Kona Village, A Rosewood Resort.

We felt we had a responsibility to honor the memories of the old Kona Village, but also look at it with a new vision for future guests, Hollis recalls. That meant keeping the summer-camplike environment but rethinking the architecture to better reflect the islands heritage and meet modern sustainability standards. The original resort had a Polynesian theme, but Warner sought to nod to the Hawaiian village that preceded it. He and his team looked at old photographs, talked to descendants of the inhabitants, and came up with a concept based on thatched-roof shelters called hale. When you come to Kona Village, its not about the architecture, Warner says. You see right through the architecture to understand the place.

His firm selected traditional-looking materials that are durable and sustainable. For the thatch, the architects replaced native pele grass with recycled plastic; aged red cedar siding evokes coconut-tree wood. On the interiors, Douglas fir walls and ceilingstreated to resemble driftwoodcan withstand humidity. The wood looks like it has been in the sun and scrubbed by ocean breezes, Warner notes.

The design of the 150 guest structures depends on where they sit on the site. Yellow and blue tones define those by the ocean; the north village, built over lava flow, has a red-and-black palette. Furnishings include oak beds inspired by the shape of a boat, rugs with Hawaiian motifs, and dark concrete bathtubs that echo the rugged volcanic landscape outside. Hollis notes that furniture and finishes were chosen to evoke the feel of an upscale residence on the island, on which many she and Warner have collaborated.

Over 200 artworks across the 80-acre propertynearly all by Hawaiiansevoke the islands history and culture. An installation of three pea, or canoe sails, by Kaili Chun, hangs from the vaulted ceiling of the main restaurant. Multiple pieces by Roen Hufford introduce guests to the ancient Hawaiian art of kapa (dried bark cloth). Outside the spa, two cast-bronze sculptures by John Koga sit atop a field of lava, referencing a molten flow and making a powerful connection with the landscape.

sutherland furniture: armchairs (reception), chair (king suite).

lgs studio: lamps (reception, living area).

atra: banquettes (restaurant), drink tables (living area).

kamuela hardwoods: mahogany table (restaurant).

suzanne wang: sconces.

fong brothers co.: armchairs.

saniharto through bridge collective: tables.

espasso: woven chairs (restaurant), chaise lounges (pool areas).

paola lenti through dzine: ottomans (living area, spa pool).

blaxsand: coffee table (living area), side table (outdoor living room).

itz furniture: chair, ottoman (treatment room).

dumais made: desk lamp.

palecek through the ferlin group: mirror (king suite).

uniqwa: lounge chair (outdoor living room).

luteca: ottoman.

native trails: tub (bathroom).

waterworks: Tub fittings.

de santana stone: side tables.

sika design: chairs (guest room).

flitterman collection: rugs, wallhangings.

delawie: architect of record.

vita: landscape architect, lighting designer.

ruzika: lighting designer.

c2c designs: custom furniture workshop.

nordic pcl construction: general contractor.

More:
Kona Villa is the Peak of Chic in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii - Interior Design

Last week, a friend texted me with a question: He had found a nice restored Cub, but like so many J-3s, it didnt have an electrical system. It had a C-85 upgrade with the accessory case that cant be converted to electric start. So hand propping would be the only option.

What do you think of the balance between purity and safety with something like that? he wanted to know. After giving this some thought for, oh, maybe 14 nanoseconds, I told him theres really no balance here. To hell with propping. Now I happen to own a non-electrical system Cub so I have to prop it; no choice. But this has nothing to do with tradition or aeronautical purity and everything to do with the fact that Im just a cheap bastard. It could be converted to electric start and Id do that if I had a spare 12 grand or whatever it costs. But I could never see the cost/value because even if I could crank the old girl with a battery, I still cant go very far in it. It doesnt make the airplane much more practical.

Propping, I have found after having done a lot of it, is something between an acquired taste and a 50-50 chance of having an ambulance summoned to the hangar alley. Yeah, sure, it can be done safely, but theres always risk of it going south when you least expect it. I went all Steven Spielberg on it and made a movie about it once. Ive never found any particular Zen in swinging a prop by hand, revealing, perhaps, that Im just an unromantic lughead with no feel for the spiritual aspects of flight. Pulling a few blades doesnt help me get my head in the game for the magic thats about to ensue. Its just a chore, a physical prelude. While being a cheap screw is one argument for having no electrical system, there actually is a better one. For the owner or organization restoring and/or flying a museum piece, it makes sense to keep modernity at bay so the progress doesnt intrude on the dream preserved in amber.

The best compromise Ive seen in the service of this goal was in the Collings Foundations B-24. Entering the flight deck, which is quite expansive, the panel looks like straight-up 1943. But one of the instrument sub-panels is cleverly removable, revealing a Garmin 530 hiding behind it. By now, they may have upgraded that, but I thought the solution was a nice bow to history without eroding safety. Ive been in a few Mustang cockpits that have a version of this approach. One I saw had a large glass display of some kind center panel. It was jarring and defeated the point of flying the thing to airshows so people could see what World War II fighters looked like.

We have this argument all the time in the world of motorcycles, mostly related to ABS. For almost 20 years, ABS has been required for new cars and it has certainly paid off in fewer accidents, especially when wet roads are involved. Yet some crusty ridersand a few new ones, toodont want the option. I can stop shorter without it, goes the argument.

Perversely, this is true in the laboratory attempt on a clean, dry road where you know whats coming. But when a deer hurtles out of the brush and your plan turns to crap, ABS is the difference between stopping and low siding into a ditch. But not having it does maintain the purity of hand-eye-hydraulics without some pesky relief valve bollexing up the fun. Perhaps theres something satisfying about a crash unencumbered by the vulgar intrusion of anything related to, you know, progress.

Purity came around again this week when I was interviewing Noah Forden and Brenda Cowlishaw for this weeks video on the Gordon Bennett balloon race. Some of the balloonists chose not to equip with ADS-B, mostly for the expense and power drain because we are, after all, talking about battery-operated systems that have to last for 60 to 80 hours. But what about the purity thing, I asked. Sure, some of the older guys, Noah said. They want to slip through the dark unnoticed so their competitors wont see what tricks theyre up to. But I tell ya what, if I was flying a balloon through the dark of night for three or four days, Id want it to be the electronic equivalent of a Christmas tree, purity be damned.

But gas ballooning is the sport of kings compared to owning a ratty old Cub with no electrical system. So much as I might like my own hydrogen balloon, equipping it with ADS-B is a choice I wont have to make.

The rest is here:
Purity Of Flight Is Overrated - AVweb

Welcome to 285 West I Street! This charming 4-bedroom, 2-bathroom house is now available for sale. Situated on a large .23 acre lot, this property offers plenty of space and potential. Built in 1900, this two-story house retains its original character while boasting several modern updates. The kitchen has been recently updated with a butcher block counter, gas range, and stainless steel appliances, making it a chef's dream. The updated windows and metal roof, installed in 2018, ensure both energy efficiency and durability. Inside, you'll find original wide plank fir floors that were refinished in 2012, adding warmth and charm to the living spaces. The installation of PEX plumbing in 2020 provides peace of mind for future maintenance.In addition to the main house, there is a spacious 26x56 two-story shop on the property. Complete with two bathrooms, this versatile space offers endless possibilities for hobbies, storage, or even a home office.Convenience is key with an attached single car garage, providing sheltered parking for your vehicle.Located in a desirable neighborhood, this property offers both tranquility and accessibility. With its close proximity to schools, parks, and shopping centers, everything you need is just a short distance away.Don't miss out on the opportunity to make this house your home. Schedule a showing today and envision the possibilities that await you at 285 West I Street!

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Historical homes you can own in the Corvallis area - Corvallis Gazette-Times

Home House & Components Parts of House Siding

Get professional-looking, watertight results with these residing techniques.

Don't be intimated by vinyl siding. We'll show you how to install it and make repairs. You can save a lot of money by handling a vinyl siding project yourself. And you'll still get professional looking results. In this article, we'll show you everything you need to know to remove and install vinyl siding so it's watertight and looks great.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

You might also like: TBD

Youll need specialty tools, like this zip tool, to work with installing vinyl siding.

Dont let the fact that you have vinyl siding installation deter you from that repair or remodeling project. If you want to shift a window, replace a door or even put on an addition, you can remove, alter and reinstall vinyl siding much more easily than any other type of siding. In this article, were going to demonstrate how to rework the siding around a new set of windows.

Well show you how to remove it, and learn tips for installing vinyl siding new parts. Well also show you how to cut vinyl siding, fit it and nail it back up. Most important, well show you how to make the installation watertight.

While well cover the basics, we wont cover every detail you might run into with your own project. Most manufacturers offer complete instructions; ask for them wherever vinyl siding is sold.

Working with vinyl doesnt require special skills, but you do have to understand the system. The only special tool youll need for reworking areas is an unlocking tool, often called a zip tool. (Youll need a snap-lock punch if you intend to cover new areas.) Youll probably need new vinyl siding trim pieces. We bought two types-J-channel to go around the new, larger windows (Photo 9), and undersill trim (see When to Install Undersill Trim.). You may also need additional siding.

Vinyl siding installation is designed to hang loosely on the sheathing so that it can expand and contract with temperature changes. To prevent the relatively thin panels from buckling, observe these fitting and nailing rules.

Youll need a zip tool to remove siding.

Slide the zip tool under the butt edge of the siding, hook the locking edge and pull down. Then slide the tool horizontally along the lock to release it. Lift the unlocked siding to expose the nailing hem of the siding piece below. Draw a line on the wall along the top of each siding course before you pull the nails.

The zip tool slides under the siding to unlock it

Drive a flat bar between the nailheads and siding and carefully pull the nails. Then slide the piece down to unlock and remove it. Number each piece and set it aside. Remove siding until you expose enough wall to replace the window.

The beauty of vinyl is that you can remove a piece anywhere on the wall. Locate the piece you want to remove and unlock the one above it with the zip tool (Photo 1 inset). It might be tricky hooking the zip tool onto the locking edge if your siding is tight. Try starting at an end or look for a loose spot. Sometimes you can unzip it just with your fingers. If youre having difficulty with a particular lock, try moving up a course. New vinyl siding is quite flexible, especially in warm weather, but older siding becomes more brittle with age, so work carefully.

It should be easy to slide a flat bar behind the nailheads since theyre not driven tight (Photo 2). Dont slide the flat bar behind the siding itself. Youll risk breaking it. You may have to bow each length of vinyl to release its ends from the trim moldings, and you may have to slide short pieces up or down past the window to release them from the J-channel.

Level and tack the new window in place then cut a piece of aluminum flashing to width so it extends from the new window to overlap the nailing hem of the siding below. Slide the top edge under the window fin, then nail off the fin with roofing nails.

Slide 5-in. wide vinyl siding flashing under the windows nailing fin. Make sure it laps over the bottom flashing at least 2 in. and extends 2 in. above the windows top. Nail off the window.

Slit the building paper about 2 in. above the window and slide 5-in. wide flashing behind it. Lap it over the side flashing and window nailing fin. Drive roofing nails at each corner to secure it.

Building paper is an important part of the walls waterproofing. Its a barrier to any water that may work its way behind the siding, so be sure upper pieces lap over lower ones. Tape any tears or holes with housewrap tape (available at home centers).

Flashing is critical for a watertight window or door. Aluminum works best with vinyl. Buy a 10-in.wide roll of aluminum (at home centers), and cut it into 5-in.wide strips for the top and sides of the window. The width of the bottom flashing will vary. It must go under the window nailing fin and lap over the nailing hem of the vinyl siding (Photo 3). This will direct water to the front of the siding.

When youre done flashing the window, stand back and imagine water running down the wall. Start above the window and visually check that all building papers and flashing lap over the piece below it so water cant run behind.

Cut a section of new J-channel 2 in. longer than the width of the window. Mark out a notch 1 in. in from each end and deeply score the inner cutting line with a utility knife.

Make the last two cuts with snips. Bend the tab back and forth to snap it off (see Photo 8).

Position the J-channel under the window. Cut and position an undersill trim if necessary (see When to Use Undersill Trim.). Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. through the middle of the slots. Dont drive them tight. The vinyl siding trim pieces should slide back and forth slightly.

Cut the side J-channel 2 in. longer than the height of the window. Make the miter cut on the bottom with shears. Cut a 1-in. notch on the top end as you did on the bottom J-channel. Lap the side over the bottom as shown. Drive roofing nails every 8 to 10 in. to secure it.

Cut 45-degree miters in the side J-channel

Cut the top J-channel 2 in. longer than the window width. Cut and bend the profile shown (see detail) on both ends. Lap it over the sides as shown and nail it into place.

Cut and notch J-channel to fit over the top of the window.

You have to wrap the window with vinyl J-channel to divert water and to cover the ends of the siding (Photo 9).Youll probably have to buy new strips for this. Start with the bottom piece and work up to the top (Photos 6 10). Make sure the pieces overlap to keep out water.

Mitered corners give a clean and finished appearance. Be extra careful to fit the top channel correctly over the side pieces (Photo 10) because a lot of water can run over these joints.

Because the siding is beveled, the cut edge under a window may end up about 1/2 in. out from the wall. If it falls 1/4 in. or less away, add the undersill trim to lock it in place (shown). If it falls more than 1/4 in. away, skip the undersill trim and simply rely on the J-channel.

If youre working over foam sheathing, place a piece of plywood between the foam and flat bar to avoid crushing the foam.

Position the siding to be notched below the window. Mark it on each side of the window, allowing an extra 1/4-in. gap on each side for expansion. Measure from the locking tab of the siding below to the undersill trim to determine the depth of the notch.

Cut through the nailing hem with shears, then score deeply along the rip line with a utility knife. Bend back the piece to snap off the notch.

Position the notched piece under the window, sliding it into the undersill trim and pushing the butt edge against the locking tab in the lower siding course to snap it in place. Make sure the top edge is on the layout line, then drive roofing nails at each stud.

Drive nails so that the exposed shank equals the thickness of two layers of siding (1/16 in. to 1/8 in.). Dont drive nails all the way in.

Measure and notch the top piece over the window. If necessary, put a butt joint above the window to make it easier to install these final pieces. Lock the piece to the one below it, then nail it into place.

Finally, pull the last loose piece down and over the lock with the zip tool. Using your hand, push or pound the piece to lock it back into place. Work the piece into the lock down its length.

Maneuvering long pieces of vinyl into place can be tricky. Push one end of longer pieces into the trim, then bow the siding slightly and guide the other end into the trim.

Then slide it up and snap the butt into the locking edge of the piece below. Feed the shorter pieces alongside the window into the channel at the top of the window, and slide them down into position. Installing the piece above the window (Photo 15) was especially tricky because it was also the last piece (it would have been easier to remove one more course above).

We had to cut the piece and put a joint directly above the window. Then we cut a long length of extra siding to complete the row. Be sure to overlap butt joints 1 in. This method wouldnt work if you had to splice in new vinyl, because the colors wouldnt match.

Remove a piece of siding and identify it. Take it to a siding retailer or distributor. Theyll identify the brand and style and should be able to direct you to the right source. Unfortunately, vinyl siding fades with age, so an exact color match may be impossible.

Be sure to save and reuse all the siding you remove. Thevinyl siding trim pieces arent as critical. If you have to add new siding, position it in an obscure spot, like the base of a wall or behind the garage. In fact, you may want to re-side an entire wall with new vinyl.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Originally Published: May 06, 2019

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How to Install Vinyl Siding (DIY) | Family Handyman