Gloucestershire town car park to remain open while new sewer is installed  MSN

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Gloucestershire town car park to remain open while new sewer is installed - MSN

Sewer Repair Made Easy: Trust Unlimited Excavation and Construction for Quality Work and Honest Pricing in CT

One of the most common issues with sewer lines is clogging. A variety of factors, such as the buildup of grease, hair, and other debris, can cause clogs. When a sewer line is clogged, it can cause water to back up into homes or businesses, leading to unsanitary conditions and potential property damage. If there is suspicion of a clogged sewer line, addressing the issue as soon as possible is essential to prevent further damage. Another common issue with sewer lines is deterioration. Over time, sewer lines can deteriorate due to age, corrosion, and other factors. This can lead to cracks and leaks in the pipes, which can cause sewage backup and other issues. If there is suspicion of deteriorating sewer lines, it's important to have them inspected by a professional. A team at Unlimited Excavation and Construction offers Clogged sewer line repair Fairfield County CT

Septic systems are another critical component of property plumbing systems. Wastewater treatment and disposal are handled via septic systems. If septic systems are not functioning properly, it can lead to sewage backup and other issues. Therefore, regular septic inspections are crucial for maintaining the health and functionality of septic systems. Professionals inspect septic tanks and drain fields during septic inspections to ensure they function properly. They also check for any damage or deterioration signs and recommend necessary repairs or maintenance. Unlimited Excavation and Construction also offers drain cleaning, snaking and unclogging services, and septic tank installation and repairs. Experienced professionals work quickly and efficiently to get septic systems up and running again. During septic inspection CT, professionals thoroughly examine septic tanks and drain fields, identifying any signs of damage or deterioration that could lead to issues like sewage backup.

For those needing sewer repair or septic inspection services, it's best to choose a reputable and experienced company specializing in sewer repair in CT. Look for a company with a track record of providing high-quality services and a team of experienced professionals who can quickly identify and address any issues with sewer or septic systems.

Sewer line and septic system problems can cause major problems for homeowners and businesses. If there is suspicion of an issue with sewer lines or septic systems, it's important to address it as soon as possible. Regular septic inspections are also crucial for maintaining the health and functionality of septic systems.

Those looking for sewer repair in Fairfield County, CT, should choose a company with licensed and insured professionals that offer affordable pricing. For example, many residents trust Unlimited Excavation and Construction for its affordable, timely, and expert services.

About Unlimited Excavation and Construction

Unlimited Excavation and Construction is a family-owned business with over 30 years of experience providing high-quality sewer repair and septic services in CT. Their team of experienced professionals is committed to providing honest workmanship and treating customers fairly. They take pride in giving back to the community and strive to provide the best possible value to their customers. With a strong dedication to customer service, Unlimited Excavation and Construction is a trusted and reliable choice for all septic inspection needs.

Unlimited Excavation and Construction 688 N Washington Ave, Bridgeport, CT 06604, United States +18604994998

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Columbus trustees discussed proposed ordinances pertaining to sewer, water and gross receipts taxes once again during the third consecutive night of public meetings on Thursday, April 20.

The villages elected body is aiming to update rates for sewer services, boosting revenue for underfunded services and establish a reserve for emergencies. They will also act on language changes to the villages water ordinance, but are not planning to change rates; and update the ordinance pertaining to the waste transfer station.

Karl Pennock, a consultant with the nonprofit Rural Community Assistance Corporation, was again in attendance to discuss his review of the sewer ordinance and his recommended rate change. Under the plan he recommends, the base rate for sewer service would actually drop to $14 from $15 but add adjustable charges based on meter size and average winter water usage, aiming to equitably distribute price increases.

On Thursday, however, Mayor Esequiel Salas voiced doubts that the increase would actually prove equitable, suggesting customers would be under pressure to curtail water use to lower their costs. Although trustees are not considering an increase to water rates, the sewer rates would be based on water consumption during the winter months.

The villages current rate for sewer service is low compared to neighboring systems, but so is its median household income, estimated at $24,487 in 2021 less than half of the state average. The rate change recommended by Pennock would claim less than 1 percent of that average annual income.

Salas said he was unconvinced, remarking, What I see is, a person on a lower income is being forced to use less water, an analysis Pennock disputed.

Salas also recommended that trustees increase standby fees, referring to payments for undeveloped or unimproved properties, to 60 cents, arguing that people holding undeveloped property tend to earn higher incomes and can afford to pay more.

A draft of the new ordinance also provides for an increase to fees charged if the village must install new sewer connections to properties not already connected. A draft of the ordinance under consideration hikes the price-per-foot for new sewer mains from $15 to $75, which alarmed Salas, who said, We have to remain friendly to businesses and residents.

Public Works director Bobby Gomez said installation of new mainlines doesnt happen often but is a lot more expensive now than when rates were last updated in 1998.

The new ordinance is likely to include an increase in fees for dumping effluent from a septic truck as well, currently proposed at $100 per load.

The proposed GRT increase would bring it to .5625 percent, which Salas said would bring the village in line with Demings rate and put us in a better position all around.

The ordinances are due to be finalized in May for a public hearing to decide on passage.

The trustees have called a special meeting for May 11 to go over all 28 findings from the villages financial audit for the last fiscal year. Certified public accountant DeAun Willoughby, who conducted the required annual audit, is expected to appear virtually to review the findings and offer recommendations.

New Mexico State Auditor Joseph Maestas issued a letter of concern to the village over the high number of findings, including repeat findings from previous years, and asked to see a corrective action plan by mid-May.

Algernon DAmmassa can be reached at [emailprotected]

Read the original:
Columbus to update sewer rates and GRT; review audit in May - The Deming Headlight

BEND, Ore. (KTZ) -- Here is the city of Bend's road and traffic report for the week of May 1-7.

As the spring flowers begin to emerge, an indication of warmer weather to come, so too are the orange construction signs, indicating the beginning of a busy construction season. As you navigate your way through the City streets and neighborhoods, please remember to slow down, read the signs and stay on the designated detour routes. Check-in weekly with the City on upcoming closures through the website:bendoregon.gov/traffic.Construction season will not last forever, please be patient and remember to drive like youre in your own neighborhood.

Work schedules are dependent on weather conditions and other factors. Always exercise increased caution within construction zones. Drivers should use designated detour routes. Nearby residential streets are for local traffic only.

Deedee Fraley, Assistant City Engineer

541-385-6199, dfraley@bendoregon.gov

Paul Neiswonger, Streets Supervisor

541-317-3035, pneiswonger@bendoregon.gov

Closures and detours in Bend are updated weekly at:bendoregon.gov/traffic

Find more information about street operations at:bendoregon.gov/streetpreservation

Weekly reports can be received via email by subscribing to Weekly Road and Traffic Reports at:bendoregon.gov/enews

See the rest here:
City of Bend road and traffic report: Week of May 1-7 - KTVZ

Weve all seen the stories about egregious delays and cost overruns affecting seemingly every public construction project, large or not-so-large. But anyone whos done major home improvement work will tell you that delays and budget-busting surprises plagued them too.

ADU experts agreed that the key to avoiding unexpected delays and cost increases is to have your contractor thoroughly inspect your property up front to see exactly what work will be required. Building officials say its also crucial to work with someone who has experience in your town and is well acquainted with the local codes.

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But sometimes, your builder will just hit a rock. This is both figuratively and, at times, literally true.

Or Michaelo, chief executive of prefab manfacturer the Home Gallery, said his company was digging a trench to connect a dwelling in the Joshua Tree vicinity to a nearby water line. They thought they had a clear path; instead, they found a huge rock they had to navigate around.

Add another up to 5% of your budget for the unknowns, even when you think you know everything, Michaelo said. And make sure you have either the money or the headroom in your loan or line of credit to cover it.

Here are tips from builders and building officials about the unwelcome revelations that may await you, as well as the steps you can take early on to minimize the shocks.

Every site has issues, which is why your contractor needs to examine your lot thoroughly before work begins, builders say. A common source of problems is the pitch and condition of your property, especially if youre converting a garage or other structure into an ADU.

You need to go out and do your due diligence and understand what logistically you need to upgrade on your site, said Gordon Stott of Connect Homes, a Los Angeles-based manufacturer of prefab units.

He suggested taking a trip to the local building department and going from desk to desk, showing a sketch of your project and asking what the various requirements might be.

Tim Koutsouros, a Culver City building official, said the biggest problem his department encounters is applications that arent up to the standards of todays building codes. For example, he said, someone might come in with a plan to convert a garage built in the 1930s, but the structures foundation has none of the footings required today. So the city will ask them to put footings in, Koutsouros said. Those are big costs, though, and that kind of takes them by surprise.

Another item thats kind of an issue, Koutsouros said, is stuff that hadnt been done right in the first place, and we have to fix it. Under state law, local officials cant stop you from putting an ADU in a structure that doesnt comply with local zoning rules, such as a garage that was built too close to the neighbors property. But they can require you to bring the ADU into compliance with current building and safety codes.

Do your homework

To minimize the number and severity of the problems that could arise while youre building your ADU, you should gird yourself with knowledge about your own citys requirements and other homeowners experiences.

Common site issues include:

Poor drainage. The last thing you want to find out after you start construction is that water drains toward the ADU instead of away from it. Sean Phillips of Otto ADU, a design and construction management firm, said that this sort of drainage isnt a problem for a garage, but its not acceptable for a dwelling unit. Nor can your builders allow water to collect under your ADU. If theres not enough slope from the ADU to the sewer connection or the storm drain, youll need to add pumps.

Outdated or cracked foundation. If your garage was built decades ago, chances are that its foundation is a slab of concrete a few inches thick. Thats not good enough for a living space, which requires a foundation with footings. If your designer doesnt check that detail, your project is going to cost thousands of dollars more than you expected. And if you dont bring the foundation into compliance before you start building on it, the fix will be even costlier. In Los Angeles, at least, youll need to submit a foundation plan with your application for a building permit, so the bad news will come sooner rather than later.

Problems inside the walls. Once you take a close look behind your sheetrock, you may find studs with dry rot, water or termite damage. And the walls themselves might lean in or out instead of standing perfectly vertical, Koutsouros said.

Utility complications. Phillips said that the folks who issue building permits arent the only ones who may have a say over your project. In Los Angeles, the L.A. Department of Water and Power has to sign off on any project built within 10 feet of its equipment or a DWP easement. That review is free, but the DWP says it could hold up your project for six to seven weeks.

A city inspector might also decide that the electrical panel on your house needs to be bulked up to support the ADU, or that the existing water line is too small, Phillips said, requiring potentially costly upgrades.

You may also need to brace yourself for the fee your municipal utility will charge for connecting your ADU, said Rene Schomp, former director of the Napa Sonoma ADU Center. State law limits permit fees but not connection fees, and some cities are charging $1,000 for every 100 square feet of ADU, she said.

A home under construction in Bellflower.

(Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

Sewer hook-ups. This is a very big issue, according to Danny Shuster of Construction & Consulting Services, a Los Angeles-based design-build firm. If the main houses sewer line is in the front of the property, tapping into it for your ADU may require digging 100 feet of trench with as few twists and turns as possible. Also, although the city of Los Angeles allows you to connect your ADU to your homes sewer line, other cities may require you to run a line from the ADU directly to the municipal system. Ouch.

Broken sewer lines. If a city inspector discovers that your ADU is connected to a damaged sewer line, you could be ordered to dig it up and fix the problem. Its better to check the lines in advance, Rob Berry of ADU Homes said, so youll be able to budget for it and do the work in the natural course of construction.

Septic systems over capacity. Schomp said that in unincorporated communities without sewers, properties are required to have a certain amount of septic tank capacity per bedroom. Adding an ADU can push you over the limit of your propertys tank. It can be very costly to upgrade a septic system to accommodate an ADU, she said.

Buried items. Your records may not reveal something a previous owner buried under the spot youve picked for your ADUs foundation or in the path of its water, sewer and power lines. Maybe its an old septic tank; Berry once had to deal with a buried swimming pool. People need to be honest and open about any obstacles that need to be removed, Shuster said.

Other troublesome site features. Depending on your property and local rules, Schomp said, you may need to hire a laundry list of (costly) experts to meet the paperwork demands of your permit application. These include a surveyor if your setbacks are tight, a geotechnical engineer if your property is sloped, and an arborist if your project might impinge on a large tree on your lot. If youre building an ADU in Pasadena, youll need to submit an inventory of all the trees on your lot, measurements included, along with a plan for protecting them even if youre just converting your garage.

Paul Dashevsky of GreatBuildz, an Encino-based firm that matches clients with contractors, said another issue is whether a small excavator can reach the back side of your ADU. If your contractor needs to dig trenches for the ADUs foundation footings or utility connections and cant use an excavator, that will drag out the work and raise your labor costs, he said.

This was an alley-facing garage before it was transformed into an ADU in West Los Angeles.

(Tamar Barnoon)

If youre building a detached ADU from the ground up, the state requires you to install solar panels on it. (Prefab units are exempt, as are garage conversions.) The states energy efficiency requirements for new buildings are an incredibly complex little curveball, said Stan Acton of Acton ADU, a design-build firm based in Campbell, Calif. His company hires a contractor to design solutions for their projects to meet the states requirements. Although experienced ADU developers understand the drill, he said, its yet another piece of complexity.

The city of Los Angeles also requires new ADUs that are 500 square feet or larger to have a city-approved plan for stormwater capture, a mandate that can require costly experts to address. Thats why Office Of: Offices Backyard Homes program, an effort to help build ADUs in Los Angeles for low-income housing, focuses on 499-square-foot units, said the organizations founder, Elizabeth Timme. Its totally inappropriate to be adding $20,000 [to the cost of these ADUs] for handling rainwater, she said.

The challenges in getting your citys approvals pale in comparison to getting the green light from the state Coastal Commission. Yakov Zariadnov, chief executive of Yakov Design Build, said hes had ADU projects in Venice that were within 500 feet of the ocean, which meant they required the Coastal Commissions approval a process that he said can take 18 months and require $60,000 in filing fees. The Coastal Commission is a nightmare for any project, Zariadnov said.

We want to hear from you

Are you building an ADU or considering one? Do you have insights to share or unanswered questions? Or horror stories? Tell us.

Meanwhile, the problems in the global supply chain have meant that some of the appliances, fixtures and materials you want in your ADU may not be available by the time youve gotten your permits and are ready to start construction. So if you dont line up everything in advance or if you change your mind midway through the project you could cause work to grind to a halt or drive up the price. Or both.

Procurement has been really tricky over the last few years, Phillips said, citing shortages affecting doors, windows, cabinets and flooring. Sometimes youll find the perfect material, but its four-month back-ordered. ... Its possible to get it, but at what cost?

Because time is money in the construction business, Zariadnov said, its important not to let your project fall onto anyones back burner not your designers, not your local planning and building officials, and not your builders. My biggest advice, he said, would probably just be to stay on top of your own project. ... At least follow up every week, every other week, trying to check the status.

Remember, though, that ADU projects involve the work of a host of local officials and building professionals, and it takes time to pull it all together. For some reason, Koutsouros of Culver City said, everyone seems to think construction will be quick, when in fact every aspect takes longer than expected from getting permits to obtaining materials to building the structure.

I dont know what the contractors are telling their customers, he said.

View post:
What can go wrong when building an ADU? - Los Angeles Times

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Guide to Planting Trees or Shrubs Over or Near Septic System or Sewer Lines:

This article describes the types of trees, shrubs, or similar plants that should or should not be planted over or near septic fields or other septic system components.

Planting trees, shrubs, and even some ground covers over septic system components are causes of septic system failure in the drain field, leach field, seepage bed, or similar components.

We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.

Watch out: While not all sewage or septic system effluents will always make nearby fruits or vegetables unsafe, in at least some conditions planting fruit trees, or vegetables (or anything else edible) over the septic drainfield might produce food that is unsafe to either because watering or rain splash-up sends sewage-contaminated water droplets onto the surface of the edible fruits or vegetables OR because in some cases pathogens may enter the plant system by means of its roots.

Wee SEWAGE CONTAMINANTS in FRUIT / VEGETABLES for details.

This is the only sort of tree that we suggest can be placed over septic system components with little risk of damage.

This is actually a metal sculpture. Even the placement of this "tree" could have damaged a septic field if during its installation heavy equipment was used to deliver the tree to this spot. Real trees will damage septic components by root movement or clogging.

If you have a shrub for which you have reliable knowledge about the maximum extent its roots will normally reach, you might think itd be ok to plant it exactly that distance from the nearest drainfield trench.

Watch out: the extra levels of nutrients delivered to the soils by the drainfield may attract roots from nearby trees or shrubs and cause them to travel farther than usual.

OPINION: keep shrubs with a known root travel distance 25% farther than that distance from the edge of a drainfield.

In this photo the light and excavated area is where the new home owner saw and dug into a smelly wet spot that appeared in the yard the morning after moving into their new home - a house built 30 years before and one which employed a home made septic tank.

While there were tree roots in the drainfield pipes of the system, the septic tank itself, which was too small, never pumped, and fully blocked, was the "root" cause of system failure in this case. (Pardon the pun).

Whether you are planting trees or planning a new septic drainfield, keep the drainfield or septic leach field away from trees or shrubs which are likely to put down deep or aggressive roots.

The pines in our photo (above-left) are white pines approximately 30 years old.

The roots will quickly invade and clog the buried effluent lines and may also cause them to move, break, or become disconnected.

The actual tree to septic distance needed depends on the tree variety and its normal root growth range.

Keep at least as much distance between the tree and the nearest drainfield component as the anticipated height of the tree at its maturity.

So if the tree will be 30' tall at maturity keep it at least 30' from the drainfield.

Some trees should be kept at much greater distances, up to 100' from septic fields, as we discuss just below.

Trees considered to have deep and/or aggressive roots that are likely to damage a drainfield include those listed below.

Japanese Angelica Tree, considered invasive in the U.S.

Warning: dense root system may kill nearby plants and block soil oxygenation.

See also Aralia spinosa in table below.

Sources

...

Above: the video camera line inspection shows a modest dislocation in a sewer line pipe joint through which roots are growing.

Even a small root intrusion or pipe joint dislocation can accumulate or block the flow of solid waste leading to slow gurgling drains and ultimately to a complete drain blockage. Our photos above show root invasion at 27 feet and at 83 feet in this buried sewer line in Seattle, WA.

See SEWER / SEPTIC PIPE CAMERAS

Some trees have less aggressive roots and may do less rapid or less extensive damage if they are a bit nearerto septic fields. These include:

OPINION-DF: Some authors accept the near-septic use of these less aggressive trees with the advice that "... their damage is likelyto be less severe". This seems silly to me. Any root clogging of septic systems is likely to be costly and inconvenient.

If you have a shrub for which you have reliable knowledge about the maximum extent its roots will normally reach, you might think itd be ok to plant it exactly that distance from the nearest drainfield trench.

But Id be careful: the extra levels of nutrients delivered to the soils by the drainfield may attract roots from nearby trees or shrubs and cause them to travel farther than usual.

OPINION-DF: Id keep shrubs with a known root travel distance at least 25% farther than that "known root travel distance" from the edge of a drainfield.

Some experts (Kahn, Allen, Jones) also point out that if you're planting on the edgesand lower toe of a septic mound, those plants need to be able totolerate the higher moisture levels found in those parts of the moundsystem.

In the photo at the top of this page, our field in northern Minnesota provided ample room to place septic system components more than100 feet from the nearest tree. But what about those tire track that show up in light snow? Driving over the drainfield can alsodamage it.

The following table of native (to New Zealand) or introduced species of shrubs and trees lists species that are considered suitable for planting over an evapo-transpiration system and should be acceptable over a mound system or conventional drainfield as well.

Note that other native species local to your area might also be suitable. [3] Separately at Grasses or Flowers we provide a similar table of suitable grasses.

Shallow root system, Native in South-Eastern U.S. Common names: devil's walkingstick, prickly ash, Hercules club, angelica tree, prickly elder, pick tree, toothache tree, shotbush

Watch out: see Aralia elata in table above.

Root depth 8 to 24" depending on species; non-aggressive, shallow spreading roots.

Might be ok over drainfield trenches more than 24" deep but safer to keep at least 25 ft. away or distance = canopy diameter + 10 ft. .

Original sources:

Watch out: even when trees are listed as OK to plant near a drainfield that NEVER means planting right atop the drainfield, and some of these trees must be kept considerable distance away.

Keep trees at least twice as far from the drainfield as canopy height or twice as far as the tree's expected root spread.

Blue sprue roots are shallow, just 2-3" deep,and slow growing, but the roots may extend 2-3 times the diameter of the drip line or the largest diameter of the tree canopy.

See Fechner, Gilbert H., BLUE SPRUCE Picea Pungens [PDF] USDA

Also see GRASSES or FLOWERS ok to plant over septic systems and drainfields or soakaway beds

Day provides suggestions for using a root barrier - excerpting:

Another effective,although expensive, technique that may be worth trying isinstalling a root barrier between your drainage field and treeplantings. Geotextiles, impregnated with a long-lasting herbicide that moves only a short distance in the soil, have beenused successfully to restrict root growth in street tree plantings.

To effectively stop tree roots, the barrier should extend from the soil surface to a depth of at least 2 feet.

Some roots may still grow under the barrier, but intrusion into the drain field should be greatly reduced. Install the barrier fabric at least 3 feet from the drain field so as not to disrupt the system. Allow at least 5 feet (the more the better) between the tree and the root barrier - more if it will be a very large tree.

Finally, never encircle the tree with the barrier material; this could effectively containerize your tree and prevent it from thriving. Instead, run the material the entire length of the drain field to prevent roots from getting into the field by going around the barrier.

Excerpt: This small suckering hardy tree or large shrub is nativethroughout North Dakota. Purple-leaved selections are popular landscape plants.

Fruits commonly used for jellies and jams. The largest tree form in North Dakota is 41 feet tall with a canopy spread of 28 feet.

This discussion has moved to TREE or SHRUB DISTANCE FROM SEPTIC FAQs

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, Thank you for your response and recommendations.

@Kendell S,

From what I've read Elaeagnus has both a deep tap root and a spreading more-shallow root system. You should not plant this over your drainfield nor close to it. Normally we keep such plants well away from the septic drainfield - a distance greater than the expected canopy diameter which often predicts the minimum horizontal roof spread.

The plant is said to grow to > 9m in height and at least 4 ft or 1.3m wide and are usually kept 3m or more apart even from one another.

That planting separation recommendation you'll find at various plant sites for Elaeagnus would say your plants need to be 9 ft. apart and I'd figure for safe avoidance root invasion of your septic field you'd want plants no closer than 10-12 ft from the edge of the drainfield.

My reasoning is the experience that the high concentration of nutrients in septic effluent act as a sort of magnet that can attract the roots plants from greater than normal plant root horizontal or vertical distance.

How safe are Elaeagnus for a privacy shield say 6 feet apart over or near my septic drain field which distributes pumped effluent?

@Jill S,

Sorry, you're both right to ask for clarification of my earlier reply.

You can remove the trees if you like - saw down, cut up, carry away.

Leaving tree roots (and stumps) won't in and of itself cause trouble.

If roots are already in the drainfield piping then they're already causing trouble, dead or alive - by clogging the system and reducing its capacity - that's why I suggested a sewer line cam inspection.

Left in place tree roots and tree stumps of many species will ultimately begin to grow anew - so you haven't necessarily "killed" the trees and you might still in the future see a root invasion problem.

Watch out: driving heavy equipment over the fields such as a stump grinder or a truck to pick up tree parts can compress soil or collapse a drainfield line - damaging the system

My husband and I interpreted your response differently. If we would like to remove a few pear trees, should we be concerned that it might negatively impact the septic leach field?

@Jill S,

Ornamental pears like the Bradford tend to have shallow roots: perhaps you've been lucky and they haven't invaded your septic drainfield.

Why not have a sewer line camera inspection of the leach lines: if you see they are root free you might stop there.

We live in North Carolina and our septic system is almost 20 years old. There are ornamental pear trees and holly trees planted over the leach field. The pear trees are now three stories tall.

We have not had any problems with the septic system and are not sure if its better to just leave the trees or cut them down? In particular, if we remove the trees and the roots have invaded the septic field could this cause problems when the roots start to decompose? Thanks, Jill

@BRIAN RASMUSSEN,

The root system for Yucca plants are invasive, aggressively-seeking water (and storing it too), combined of a shallow root system seeking water and a deeper tap-root.

I've found that "normally-shallow" root systems will be attracted to a drain line if there are openings (hub type older drainfield pipes) and will absolutey be attracted to the drainfield trenches of septic systems.

So you'd want to keep such plants 2-4 x the plant's canopy size diameter away from the drainfield. 20-30 feet or more may be safe.

See details in this

YUCCA PLANT INFORMATION GUIDE - USDA [PDF] USDA, retrieved k2022/01/24 original source: https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/publications/nmpmcrb12162.pdf

Available here at

https://inspectapedia.com/septic/Yucca-Plant-Information-USDA.pdf

Are Adams Needle yucca variety damaging to drain pipes and septic systems? Thanks, Brian

@Field Inspector K-Sneak,

You did a GREAT JOB KS - by working by hand and carrying off the cut-up logs from the septic mound.

That means you didn't drive heavy equipment over the mound system.

Now as long as there was no evidence that the tree-fall broke a pipe - which from your photos and our onsite inspection seem to be the case, and as long as the remaining end of that big tree is not on any part of the constructed septic mound, you can leave the rest of it alone if you like.

That sawdust won't hurt a thing - it's only of cosmetic import - because of its limited thickness and because it's spaced out. (You would not want to pile many inches of sawdust or any other compost atop the mound) as in too much thickness you might interfere with transpiration or with the availability of oxygen to the aerobic bacteria in the soil top layers.

@inspectapedia.com.moderator,

Update on the tree that fell across our septic mound system:

As you can see in my photo, I got that nasty old chain saw working an cut the tree into short segments that I could carry off of our septic moun. I stopped cutting back the fallen-tree once I had removed everything back to the bottom edge of the mound.

1. Is it OK for me to leave that sawdust on the septic mound or might it cause a mold problem?

2. Is it OK for me to leave the rest of the tree in place?

More here:
Planting Trees or Shrubs Near Septic or Sewer Lines - InspectAPedia

Septic System Cost by Size

The septic tank size you need varies significantly, depending on the home or building size you are servicing and the amount of waste produced. The most common way to break down the tank volume needed is by the number of bedrooms in the home. Historically, this is a good indication of the tank size needed.

A septic system for a two-bedroom house requires a minimum of a 750-gallon tank. Its cost typically ranges between $1,500 and $3,000. However, it is important to check local regulations because many municipalities require a minimum of a 1,000-gallon tank for a residential system.

The average cost of installing a 1,000-gallon septic tank is $3,000 to $7,000. The minimum size of the tank recommended for a three-bedroom house is a 1,000-gallon tank. Additionally, many local or state governments require a minimum of a 1,000-gallon tank. A 1,000-gallon tank typically handles 360 gallons of water per day. If you want to calculate your water usage, estimate your water flow, and multiply it by 1.5.

Typically, 1,200-gallon tanks cost between $7,000 and $12,000. A four-bedroom house needs a slightly larger tank. A 1,250-gallon tank is the minimum tank volume for a home of this size. This tank handles about 480 to 600 gallons per day of effluent. The cost varies significantly, depending on the tank material. Use the calculation above to estimate the water volume leaving your house.

Most homeowners pay $12,000 to $20,000 to install a five-bedroom house system. A tank up to 1,500 gallons should suffice, which comfortably handles anywhere from 600 to 900 gallons of water a day. Like the systems for a house with three or four bedrooms, a five-bedroom system cost varies by tank material and design.

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There are many different types of septic systems, and each has pros, cons, and costs. Costs depend on various things, including the lot size, soil type, house size, and weather conditions. The costs below are based on a 1,000-gallon tank in a three or four-bedroom house and do not include installation.

*additional costs per connection.

The average cost for an in-ground gravity system is $1,500 to $4,000. They are very simple in that they use gravity for water flow and filtration. A gravity system does not need a pump. The tank in these types of systems is very important. It should have risers-to-grade to help with maintenance and an effluent filter that filters out larger particles before the water leaves the tank. This system requires at least a gentle slope so that the water flows properly without a pump.

The typical cost for a conventional system is between $2,000 and $10,000. It is typically used at single-family homes or small businesses. It is an older design but one that works well, with a tank and then a trench that acts as a drain field. Typically, in this system, the trench is quite shallow, ranging from 18 to 30 inches, and constructed of gravel or stone. A geofabric is installed on top of the trench to allow water to enter the stone and prevent any sand or dirt from entering the clean soil. One downside to a conventional system is that the gravel and stone trenches take up a lot of space and might not work on a small lot.

An underground anaerobic system costs from $2,000 to $5,000. It is a very common option for homeowners. It is a fairly simple system that does not need additional chemicals or power. An anaerobic system uses bacteria that do not require oxygen to live to eat solid waste. The liquid waste is then piped out and distributed under the soil. As the water runs through the soil, the waste is naturally filtered out.

The average cost for an in-ground chamber system ranges from $3,500 to $10,000. A chamber system uses gravelless drain fields. This system has surged in popularity over the past few decades. Some benefits to a gravelless drain field include having a smaller carbon footprint1, and they are easier to construct and install. They are also beneficial when there is no consistent flow of wastewater, such as for a cabin or seasonal residence.

There are typically multiple chambers across the drain field connected to the tank by pipes. Chamber systems work well in areas with good, natural soil that will easily absorb the effluent.

A typical drip distribution system costs between $4,000 and $10,000 but can be much higher, depending on how advanced the technology is. A drip distribution system is dynamic and does not require a large mound of soil. This system, consisting of drip laterals or long lengths of tubing, is installed between 6 and 12 inches underneath the soil. Using a pump, a large dose tank distributes the water in timed deliveries. This system requires a fairly large area and needs power to operate. For example, if you add an electrical component, it will increase expenses.

The average cost for an underground pressure distribution system is between $5,000 and $7,000. Pressure distribution systems only need 2 feet of distance between the bottom of the system and the water table level. This is a huge advantage for people who live in areas with high water tables. This system includes a pump chamber that pushes the water out and distributes it evenly across a distribution area. The pump can also push water uphill. As a result, there must be good control over the pumps on/off action. These systems are slightly more expensive than a gravity system, but they overcome many barriers a gravity system2 cannot.

Expect costs for a recirculating sand filter system to range from $6,000 to $10,000. What makes this system unique is the sand filter portion can be installed above or below ground. Liquid waste, also called effluent water, is pumped into the top of the sand filter, which is typically constructed of concrete or PVC. The waste in the water is filtered out through sand and stone layers before entering the ground. This system is ideal for lots with a high water table or areas near surface water, such as a lake or river.

The average cost for a constructed wetland system is $6,000 to $10,000. This is a unique and interesting in-ground system that resembles a wetland. The effluent goes from the tank into what is called a wetland cell. Wetland cells are typically constructed of a liner, gravel, sand, and wetland plants. The plants must be chosen carefully because they will always be wet. The water flows into the wetland cell, and the plants, sand, and gravel filter out the waste. The water is then distributed into a drain field. This system can use gravity or a pump.

An average cost for a conventional in-ground system for a community is between $9,200 and $15,700. Then, there is an additional cost per home or connection added to the system, which typically ranges from $3,400 to $5,100 per added connection. Sometimes called a cluster system, a community system is decentralized, meaning it does not just serve one household. Typically, a community system serves at least two buildings. These are fairly common in rural subdivisions where there is a lot of space. These systems can be cost-effective and very efficient. The cost of a community system varies significantly because it depends on the type of system installed and the number of buildings or homes included in the system.

The cost of an underground evapotranspiration system is usually $10,000 to $15,000. This unique system has an interesting design, where water is put into an open-air tank, and the water evaporates. The tank is lined with a durable water-tight material so that no water leaks into the soil. With this system, the water does not enter the soil at all. Evapotranspiration systems need to be installed in the right climate. It must be hot, have a lot of sun, and be in an arid climate. If there is too much rain or snow, the system can fail.

An above-ground septic system ranges from $10,000 to $20,000. They are a unique design intended when the depth of the soil or bedrock is shallow, or the groundwater is high. They have a sand mound constructed in the area of the septic system. A pump pushes wastewater from the tank into the mound in doses. Then, the sand filters out the water before it enters the soil and groundwater. This design needs a lot of space to build. For a standard three-bedroom home, the mound will likely be 200 feet long. For larger homes, an additional 30 feet of length is added per bedroom. It takes up a lot of space, but it is beneficial if you have shallow bedrock or high groundwater.

The average cost for an underground aerobic system is between $10,000 and $20,000. This is also a popular system among homeowners. It utilizes bacteria that need oxygen to survive to eat solid waste. Due to this, the system pumps oxygen into the tank to activate the bacteria. These systems are more expensive to install and maintain but work well where other systems might struggle. These systems work on small lots in areas where the soil conditions are not conducive to other systems and where the groundwater table is too high to utilize other systems. It is also a good option if your home is located near a body of water.

Septic tanks come in different capacities based on how many gallons of water they hold. Average prices range from $720 to $10,000. The size of your house is the biggest factor in determining what capacity you need. The larger the house, the more bathrooms and connections needed to maintain a clean and healthy environment. Below are the most common tank capacities and the associated costs of buying each tank. Keep in mind that each capacity comes in concrete, plastic, or fiberglass3.

A 750-gallon tank costs $720 to $1,200. This capacity is ideal for small townhomes or single-family residences with two bedrooms. Most will only have one or two toilets connected to the system. Many 750-gallon tanks are plastic and installed above ground, but they can be used for underground systems.

Most homeowners pay $800 to $2,000 for a 1,000-gallon tank. This capacity suits a three- or four-bedroom home with two or three bathrooms. Plastic and precast concrete are common materials for 1,000-gallon tanks, usually used for conventional above or below ground systems. The average family home typically has a 1,000-gallon tank.

The average cost of a 1,200-gallon tank is $1,200 to $2,000, designed for homes with four or five bedrooms. Many 1,200-gallon tank systems are hooked up to three or four bathrooms. Alternative or engineered systems installed underground with a new drain field hold around 1,200-gallons.

A 1,500-gallon tank costs $1,300 to $2,500. This capacity is reserved for a large five- to seven-bedroom house, usually upwards of 3,000 sq.ft. There may be four, five, or even six bathrooms hooked up to the system. Fiberglass and concrete are used more commonly as the capacity goes up, but plenty of plastic 1,500-gallon tanks are available.

Expect to pay $2,500 to $4,000 for a 2,000-gallon tank. It can serve a small apartment or duplex with about 14 residents. Precast concrete is the preferred material for a long-lasting 2,000-gallon tank, which may be used by several people at the same time. Many of these larger tanks will be installed underground with a set drainage field.

If you need a 2,500-gallon tank, plan on paying $3,000 to $4,500. Small apartment buildings usually use this capacity for underground systems, with precast and plastic options readily available. The larger the tank is in size, the more labor involved to make sure it fits into place and has the proper support around it.

The average cost of a 5,000-gallon tank is $5,000 to $10,000, usually reserved for apartment buildings and community tanks. The sheer size of these tanks makes them an uncommon choice for the average homeowner unless they live in a sprawling property or farm where they want to store significant water and reuse it wherever possible by separating potable and non-potable water.

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There are several different materials for septic tanks. Each material has benefits. Some are more appropriate for different soil types, climates, or uses. They all do the same job, but there is a cost difference among them. The costs below are for a 1,000-gallon tank, which typically serves a standard three-bedroom home.

The average cost for a 1,000-gallon concrete tank is $800 to $1,250. Concrete tanks are very popular and the most common material used for tanks. They are durable and have a long life when made of high-quality materials and are constructed well. A good concrete tank can have a life of over 20 years. A concrete tank is very heavy, so big equipment is needed for installation. Other price factors impact the cost, depending on if it is precast or reinforced with rebar.

The typical cost of a plastic tank is between $830 and $1,400. Plastic tanks are more durable than you might think. They do not typically crack, but they can break if soil conditions change or shift. Plastic tanks are much lighter than their concrete counterparts and are typically less expensive to install. While the cost of the tank is similar, the installation costs vary greatly between a plastic tank and other heavier materials.

The typical cost for a 1,000-gallon fiberglass tank is $1,600 to $2,000. Fiberglass has many unique benefits. It is not a porous material, so there is very little chance algae will grow on the tank. It also is very sturdy and does not deteriorate underground. Like plastic tanks, fiberglass tanks are lighter than concrete or steel, so they are cheaper to install. There is also no chance of fiberglass cracking, which could happen to concrete.

Installing a septic system can be a lot of work, depending on the system type. It is an extremely technical project that should be carried out by a professional contractor. Not only do all connections need to be made perfectly to ensure the system does not leak, but the grade and depth of the components are also very precise.

Hiring a contractor for the project ranges between $1,500 and $4,000. This cost includes the system design, filing permits, and excavating and installing the system. For a contractor to do the design, it usually costs between $600 and $800. An hourly rate for a contractor varies based on the location, costing between $150 and $200 per hour. While the total project cost changes based on the system type, the hourly rate is pretty standard and should not change. A typical installation job should take two to five days or 16 to 40 hours.

The installation has several phases. First, the contractor completes an inspection to determine the scope of the design and if any soil tests are needed. The contractor then designs the system and applies for the permits. After this, excavation occurs. Next, it is time for the system installation. Once the installation is done, an inspector needs to approve it before filling in the soil and finishing the project.

You may not have realized it, but your septic tank was very likely impacted by the pandemic and may still be impacted. Septic tanks are sized based on projected need. This includes the number of water sources in the home, the number of occupants, and how many hours a day they are home.

When the pandemic was declared in March 2020, most non-essential workers and school children began staying or working from home. This put high stress on septic systems because more people were using the systems for more hours a day than they may have been designed for.

While some people resumed their normal lives and schedules after a short period, an estimated 25% to 30% of the workforce will continue to work from home once the pandemic is over. Many families have also turned to homeschooling to avoid disruptions during this time, meaning many families are spending more hours at home than before the pandemic.

This may mean your septic system is overburdened. It may need to be pumped more frequently than before, need additional service, or be replaced entirely, depending on its age and condition. Families with septic systems should have them inspected and talk with their septic company about addressing their needs.

Its normal for pieces of a septic system to age and wear over time. System maintenance is usually cheaper than installing a new system because design and excavation are already done. Additionally, most systems have fairly independent pieces that are easy to replace, such as tank lids or filters.

Signs that your tank needs to be replaced include noticeable cracks or damage, unusually strong smells of sewage, standing water, slow sink/shower draining and toilet flushing, patchy grass, or contamination in nearby water sources. Remember, the average lifespan of this system is 20 to 30 years. If yours is several decades old, it may need to be replaced. If you have increased your house size substantially and added new bathrooms, you may need a bigger tank. The average tank removal cost is $5,000 to $6,000.

You can replace the tank baffle ($300 to $900), tank lid ($150 to $500), and tank filter ($200 to $300). If the tank pump fails, it costs typically between $200 and $500. Replacing the leach field is more expensive, costing between $2,000 and $20,000. Hiring a specialist for the replacement is usually between $125 and $175 per hour. The hourly rate may vary based on area, but it should be fairly consistent for any type of septic installation or repair.

A septic tank inspection is most commonly done when buying a home and usually costs $300 to $600, with many inspectors charging based on the size of the tank and the scope of the inspection. This inspection evaluates the age, condition, and pumping power of the tank to ensure it is working optimally. Homeowners can opt for tank inspections every three to five years to ensure that everything is fine with their systems and that no performance issues or damage needs to be addressed.

Home inspectors do a visual inspection of the tank. They ask several questions about the age of the house and the date of the last inspection. Inspectors turn on all the taps and flush every toilet to check the water pressure and draining. They need to check the drain field to look for standing water or a cesspool.

In a full inspection, inspectors take off the tank cover to look at the water level and whether it changes when more water comes in. Sometimes inspectors use a dye test, putting special coloring into the draining water to see how much filters into the tank. Then the tank is pumped, and the inspector checks for any absorption backflow. By looking for absorption issues or backages, they can see if anything needs to be fixed.

Installing a drain field, also known as a leach field, costs $3,500 to $11,000. The drain field is an important part of the system that carries the wastewater back into the soil after it filters through the tank. Drain fields are typically connected to the tank by perforated pipes running 2 to 4 feet underground. These pipes carry the water into the soil, where it drains out beneath the grass. When installing a drain field, a specialist will look out for the surrounding soil environment to ensure the ground can handle the influx of wastewater. Both installers and homeowners must monitor for signs of drain field clogging or flooding. A swampy, soggy area of the yard or a strong sewage odor can indicate issues with a drain field, which could cost $2,000 to $10,000 to remediate.

A tank riser is a pipe installed on the top of a ank to give you access to the tank at ground level. This makes your system more accessible and makes maintenance and repairs cheaper, faster, and easier. The average plastic or concrete riser cost ranges from $300 to $600, with plastic being lighter and slightly easier to use. Concrete risers are a little more expensive toward the higher end of the range, but they are very durable and can end up saving money in the long run by creating an access point to your tank that is at grade.

Sewer pipes in septic systems are slightly different from the typical sewer pipe. They are a different size and usually are a minimum of 4 inches in diameter. These pipes have protection around them, such as baffles or sanitary tees typically constructed of concrete, fiberglass, or plastic, and need to be acid-resistant. The most common materials for sewer pipes for these systems are PVC and cast iron. The cost depends on the pipe length and location. The material cost of the pipe is between $100 and $240 per linear foot of material to replace or install a sewer pipe. The cost for a plumber to do the installation or repair is typically between $45 and $200 per hour.

While the distribution box might not seem like a major component in the septic system, it is one of the most important pieces. The distribution box is where the effluent flows through to get to the drain field. It is the connector between the tank and the drain field. If the distribution box is damaged or not functioning, it can cause the entire system to fail.

A distribution box is not very expensive, usually between $50 and $100 for a plastic distribution box. Concrete is more expensive because the boxes are heavier and have to be precast or cast in place. The cost of a concrete distribution box is usually between $600 and $650.

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Mobile homes connect to these systems the same way as any other building or home. The major difference when designing, installing, or connecting a system to a mobile home is that the placement is critical. A tank cannot withstand the weight of the home if you move it. As a result, the tank and septic system needs to be in a location where the home will not be hauled over it.

The most common system type used for mobile homes is a conventional one with a standard drain field. The average cost to install and connect a system like this to a mobile home is typically between $3,000 and $5,000.

While a septic system is a simple onsite sewage solution that collects wastewater for basic treatment, a cesspool is a shallow underground pit for sanitary waste disposal. A septic system pumps wastewater and eventually filters it out through pipes into the soil drain field. But a cesspool simply holds the waste in place inside a concrete-lined pit. A cesspool cant filter waste, so it eventually contaminates the nearby soil. To prevent soil contamination and enjoy a cleaner, safer system for the long term, homeowners may choose to replace a cesspool with a full septic system. To do this, expect to pay at least $4,000 to $6,000. Prices may be higher depending on the size of the cesspool, deterioration of the surrounding soil, and the requirements for the new system. The process should take just a few days, although installers must ensure the stability of the soil around the cesspool. The cesspool needs to be drained, the concrete liner removed, and then installers will work the soil accordingly. Once the soil is ready, the new system can be installed.

Converting an anaerobic system to an aerobic one costs $5,000 to $10,000. Anaerobic systems are less expensive, costing $2,000 to $5,000 as a traditional and common septic system with relatively no oxygen in the tank. Aerobic systems support bacteria that live off oxygen and help break down sewage, making them more expensive, around $10,000 to $20,000.

The advantages of converting from an anaerobic system to an aerobic one include the cleaner effluent flowing out of the system, which minimizes the chances of groundwater contamination. If you live somewhere with a high water table, an aerobic system helps prevent water pollution. The main downside is, of course, the higher installation costs. Additional maintenance is also involved, like checking the air injection and electrical systems.

The advantages of a septic tank outweigh the disadvantages for most homeowners. This project is a sizable investment, costing from $720 to $10,000, but its money well spent when you can dispose of waste in a safe, sanitary way. Septic systems also give homeowners independence and peace of mind knowing they can use their sinks, showers, tubs, and toilets without worrying about clogs and backups in a community sewage system.

Septic systems protect the environment by removing pollutants from surface water and replenishing groundwater. They protect your familys health and the wider health of the community by reducing the risk of pollutant and pathogen transmission. On the downside, these systems may encounter problems, especially as they age. Damage to the tanks and other sections of the systems may require repairs. If the drain field overflows, you will also need to get that fixed. Even so, the maintenance requirements of a modern system are minimal, especially if it was properly installed by a professional.

Septic tank maintenance is a necessary and preventive aspect of having a septic system. Like most systems in your home, some maintenance is necessary to keep everything in the proper working order. In this case, most maintenance is considered preventative. The most important maintenance task is pumping and cleaning the tank every three to five years. This is a pretty standard timeline, no matter which system you have. Cleaning costs usually range from $400 to $1,000 and include any tools and equipment the plumber or specialist may need. Most maintenance does not need any material replacements, so you will only pay if something needs replacing.

A septic system costs $3,100 to $9,600 to install while connecting to a main sewer line can be slightly more affordable, around $1,500 to $8,000. Think of this system as your own personal sewage system. A septic system treats wastewater on site, with an underground tank and pipe system on your property. If your home plumbing system is not hooked up to a septic system, it is connected to the main city sewer line. Sewage connections carry the wastewater from your home and route it underground to a city or county treatment plant.

A holding tank is seen as a temporary solution for holding wastewater, costing $500 to $4,000 compared to $3,100 to $9,600 for septic systems. As the name suggests, a holding tank holds wastewater but doesnt have a system to filter the waste. Once a holding tank reaches capacity, it must be emptied, with most requiring monthly, if not weekly, pumping.

Holding tanks are a better option for tiny homes, trailers, boats, or RVs, as they are not designed for larger family homes. Unlike a holding tank, a septic tank is a full system that filters wastewater and sends effluent out into the drain field and surrounding soil. A full septic system is more expensive but requires less maintenance and is more permanent than temporary holding tanks.

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A pump alarm may be necessary with some systems, such as a pressure distribution system. These alarms are triggered when the wastewater level gets extremely low. If the pump continues to run when there is no water to distribute, it can ruin the pump. A tank alarm ranges from $100 to $500.

It may be necessary to clear some land and do preparation work on the site before installing a septic system. Land clearing prep work costs between $1,600 and $8,000, with prices varying based on the size of the land and the scope of the work. This is important because even the most advanced system wont work well if the soil cannot support it. Land preparations usually start with soil testing, with the average perc test for septic costs around $600 to $800. This test reveals how long it takes for the soil to drain and will help your installer understand the best place to install your system and which type of tank is most suited to your property.

Once you settle on the right spot to install the system, its time to excavate the area for the drain field. Most contractors include this in their installation costs because the elevation, slope, and system depth are all extremely specific. After installing the system, your contractor cleans up the surrounding landscaping to protect and secure the tank.

The average cost of installing a septic system is between $3,100 and $9,600, including the system and installation. Anaerobic, gravity, and chamber systems are on the lower end of that average, usually costing $1,500 to $5,000. More expensive systems include the mound system, aerobic, and evapotranspiration and range anywhere from $10,000 to $20,000.

A 1,000-gallon tank usually costs between $800 and $2,000, but the price varies depending on the tank material. A concrete tank has the cheapest material cost, between $800 and $1,250, but it is the most expensive to transport and install because of its weight. A plastic tank is slightly more expensive, $830 to $1,400, but its weight makes it much cheaper to install, and heavy machinery is usually not needed. A fiberglass tank usually ranges between $1,600 and $2,000.

A septic system typically lasts between 15 and 40 years. This is usually determined by the quality of the tank and the drain field. A concrete tank is extremely durable. When constructed well, it is fairly indestructible and can easily last 40 years. The lifespan of a plastic tank is about 30 years. The drain field can also be a limiting factor on the age of the system. The drain field type does not affect the lifespan of the system. However, the quality of the soil and drainage is a huge factor. Not doing maintenance on the system is one way to shorten the life of any system.

The smallest area a septic system will usually fit in is a -acre lot. Most homeowners with small lots opt to use an aerobic system. Most systems, such as an anaerobic or chamber system, typically need at least a one-acre lot. Mound systems need the most space because the mound itself is usually a minimum of 200 feet long.

Heavy rain can cause problems for all types of systems because they can flood the drain field. If the drain field floods or the soil is saturated, the effluent septic water cannot effectively drain into the soil. This can cause major backups in the tank and even flooding.

A small septic system for a two- or three-bedroom home can handle about five loads of laundry per day. This does not include any other water being used and is based on using an old washer with a 1,000-gallon tank. The washer type is a major factor because older washers can use up to 40 gallons per wash. New energy-efficient washers usually use 12 to 15 gallons of water.

The average 1,500-gallon tank costs $1,300 to $2,500. This capacity is ideal for a large five- to seven-bedroom house around 3,000 sq.ft. or more. Homes with four, five, or six bathrooms can benefit from a 1,500-gallon tank, usually made of fiberglass or concrete, although plastic tanks are also available.

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2022 Septic System Installation Cost | New Septic System Cost - Fixr.com

Well be looking at root killers for septic tanks, including the best brands in the market.

Many times, tree or shrub roots become the enemy of our septic systems. This is because such roots may infiltrate into tanks through tiny cracks.

As they penetrate such tanks, roots create even wider cracks which lead to a problematic system.

This article will discuss a solution for root penetration in septic tanks with special reference to root killers. Root killers have been around for some time and have provided relief for many households.

To understand this better, youll need to look at the contents of a septic tank.

Septic tanks hold waste which is usually separated into 3 phases; scum, effluent, and sludge. The effluent layer is rich in nitrates which are considered good fertilizing agents.

When tiny cracks begin to form on septic tanks, a slow action by tree roots begins. Roots will need to gain access to a source of nutrients that are being held in septic tanks.

As this situation unfolds, groundwater also infiltrates the septic tank.

This leads to a situation where the tank fills up easily.

Before you ever decide to use root killer for septic systems, youll need first to confirm that a root issue is existent.

Tree roots cause a myriad of problems for your septic tanks as well as the entire system. The best way to find out if roots are the issue is to look for certain symptoms.

These symptoms include frequent pumping of septic tanks, sitting water on the drain field, poor drainage, and patches of green in the leach field.

Lets briefly discuss each of these problems for a better understanding.

When roots interfere with septic tanks and systems, they block off your drain field and pipes.

This negatively impacts your septic tank as it becomes more easily filled up than usual. Septic tanks are meant to be pumped once every 3 to 5 years.

With root actions, you may be pumping your tanks much more frequently than normal.

Now, this symptom is only speculated. An actual inspection of the septic tank by a technician will determine if the issue is due to tree root presence or if other things are responsible.

When a drain field becomes overwhelmed by excess water, it results in a situation where it hardly absorbs.

This results in sitting water on the drain field. As your septic tank fills up easily due to cracks caused by roots, it fills up easily. This results in excess water being delivered to the drain field.

Are you experiencing sluggish drains in your toilet and sinks?

The first thing that comes to mind when you notice this problem is the possibility of a full septic tank. Now, what if its not due for pumping?

If so, there could be other reasons, among which is the possibility of root penetration.

Are you noticing the growth of lush green grasses and shrubs above your leach field?

This may be due to the escape of nutrient-rich water from your septic tank. This is mostly the case when roots cause a blockage of distribution pipes.

As mentioned earlier, theres no way of knowing that tree roots are present within your septic tank.

The symptoms listed above are only that and will need to be further investigated. When its determined that roots are present, an appropriate treatment will be necessary.

This brings us to our main focus; root killers for septic tanks. A wide range of root-killing products has been developed by different companies to combat the root menace.

A tree must have been planted too close long after the septic tank was installed.

In other cases, septic tanks were installed within proximity to trees. Whatever the case is, your best bet is to find the most appropriate treatment.

Root killers are specially formulated chemical products that are designed to act on roots within proximity to a septic tank. These products are applied to wither or kill tree roots.

This prevents them from further encroachment into your septic tank.

There are lots of root killer products on the market. Youll have to make your choice of what best fits your needs. Each of these products comes with user instructions.

Youll need to make your preferred pick based on customer reviews and expert recommendations.

Most root killers are in the form of septic tank additives.

These chemicals are designed so that they dont affect digestive bacteria found in septic tanks when applied. However, any plant roots within such tanks are destroyed.

So how about corrosion? Will your tanks corrode when these chemicals come in contact? Not at all! Your tank remains in perfect working condition.

When it comes to root killers, youre likely to be spoiled for choice as there are tons of them.

Each of these makes serious claims about its efficacy. Its left to you to find out whats best or what isnt. This is possible by going through customer reviews.

Some popular products include Hi-Yield Root Killer, Zep Root Kill, and Roebic Foaming Root Killer.

Others include RootX Root Killer, Root Destroyer, and much more. As mentioned earlier, most of these are septic additives that can be applied through the toilet or drainage.

After confirming the presence of roots, the cracks or openings resulting from their penetration will need to be fixed.

In other words, killing plant roots isnt enough to resolve the problem. Other issues may develop include a septic tank that fills up too fast.

Youll need to discuss with your technician the best ways to resolve the problem.

Here are the best root killers for sewer lines.

One of the main problems affecting sewer lines is the presence of plant or tree roots.

These cause all sorts of issues, such as entangling pipes with hair-like masses. Though tiny, these hair-like masses are likely to form clogs as they hold on to toilet tissue and other debris.

The best response to root problems affecting sewer lines is to apply commercial or homemade root killers. As the name implies, a root killer will fight back by killing off all roots within your sewer lines.

This allows for fewer interruptions and better functioning of your sewer system.

Tree roots are notorious for causing sewer line issues.

In other words, trees and shrubs are the major causes of root problems. This is because plants and trees will readily tap from nutrients contained in wastewater being transported by sewer lines.

With root killer products, you wont have to worry about cutting down your trees as a preventive measure. Trees themselves provide a lot of benefits.

Your best bet will be to find the most effective root killers to safeguard your sewer lines. So, what are they? There are several!

When applying a root killer, you want to ensure the product reaches every part of your sewer lines.

The top part of sewer lines may be left out when the right type of root killer isnt reached. This is where the foaming root killer comes in handy. It reaches all sides of the pipe.

This isnt to take anything away from root killers containing copper sulfate. These, too, are effective. However, the only difference is that such products wont reach the top side of the pipe.

With this information provided, lets consider some of the top root killers for sewer lines. Its also important to note that this follows no particular order.

When it comes to the most effective root killers for sewer lines, no particular product can be pointed out as being the overall best. Rather, several root killer products from popular brands can be listed as being among the best.

These root killer products are largely divided into two types; copper sulfate or rock salt and foaming dichlobenil pesticide. While both categories will readily kill off roots, their applicability depends on the situation at hand.

Top brands include Roebic K-77, Sanco Industries, FDC, Roebic FRK-1LB, and ROOTX. Others include ZEP, Root Reach, Green Gobbler, Rooto, and Earthworks.

Lets provide further details on each of these root-killing products.

If you wish to eliminate roots in your sewer and septic pipes, Roebic K-77 is one of the trusted products to consider. It not only kills roots but also prevents re-growth, thus improving flow and drainage.

Roebic K-77 is non-corrosive as such, safe for all plumbing types.

Youll need to apply once every 6 to 12 months. This product saves you a lot of expenses in costly digging as well as rooter service.

This product is used in both sewer and septic systems.

Root Destroyer is best applied when you first notice reduced flow. It contains copper sulfate crystals that act on all invasive sewer line roots. While killing such roots, it wont harm your trees.

Its important to note that Root Destroyer will temporarily reduce bacterial action. However, this only lasts 15 days after which full bacterial action is restored.

Its designed to only kill roots within the leach line and nothing more.

FDC is another top root killer product with about 99% copper sulfate purity.

These are bright blue crystals that go by several names such as blue vitriol, cupric sulfate, blue copper, and bluestone among others. FDC is also known to have many other applications.

If you need the best foaming root killer for sewer lines, this is one product to get as it reaches all slides of your sewer lines for maximum action. All roots in sanitary sewers are eliminated, plus it foams on contact.

What more? If youre concerned about the safety of your plumbing, Roebic FRK-1LB will serve just fine.

This granular concentrate is easy to use and provides real results. In addition to killing all roots, Roebic 1LB serves to prevent recurring growth.

ROOTX is also a foaming root killer that reaches areas (top of sewer lines) where most root intrusions occur.

Not only are roots killed, but it also strips off grime and grease on roots with its surfactant formula. With ROOTX, you wont have to deal with the recurring growth of roots.

ZEP Root Kill will readily kill off roots found within your sewer lines.

With such roots dead, normal system flow is fully restored. You dont have to be worried about the safety of your shrubs and trees as no damage is done. ZEP Root Kill contains copper sulfate.

Root Reach is designed for use in both sewer and septic lines. Its a foaming-only agent thats designed to fill pipes with foam. This product can also be mixed with other cleaning agents for the best results.

Some examples of these cleaning agents include Dichlobenil, Root Gone, Copper Sulfate, and Drain Free, etc.

Another foaming root killer to consider is Green Gobbler.

It reduces repair costs, prevents re-growth, saves you money on repair costs, and also safe for your plumbing. Youll need to follow all use instructions to apply this product.

Rooto helps clear roots from your sewer pipes and also eliminates new growth. Rooto is fast and easy to use and also harmless to bacteria. It comes in a plastic container measuring about 2lb.

Rooto comes in liquid form.

Earthworks root killer comes in powder form consisting of copper sulfate crystals. Its purity level is about 99.9% with ease of use and also providing value for money.

Root killers for septic tanks perform an excellent job of ridding invasive root growth. This solution also positively affects the general performance of your septic tank as well as the entire system.

These are some of the best root killers for sewer lines. Here, you have the option of choosing what works best for your situation. You dont need to wait until your sewer lines are clogged.

By applying any of these, youre able to rid your sewer and septic lines of all root intrusions.

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20 Best Tree Root Killer For Septic Tanks And Sewer Lines

BEND, Ore. (KTVZ) -- Here is the city of Bend's road and traffic report for the week of August 22-28.

Ongoing Closures:

Future Road Closures:

Work schedules are dependent on weather conditions and other factors. Always exercise increased caution within construction zones. Drivers should use designated detour routes. Nearby residential streets are for local traffic only.

Contact: Deedee Fraley, Assistant City Engineer541-385-6199, dfraley@bendoregon.gov

For Street Preservation related questions: Paul Neiswonger, Streets Supervisor541-317-3035, pneiswonger@bendoregon.gov

Closures and detours in Bend are updated weekly at:bendoregon.gov/traffic

Find more information about street operations at:bendoregon.gov/streetpreservation

Weekly reports can be received via email by subscribing to Weekly Road and Traffic Reports at:bendoregon.gov/enews

KTVZ NewsChannel 21 is committed to providing a forum for civil and constructive conversation.

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City of Bend road and traffic report: Week of August 22-28 - KTVZ

There's no way around it -- installing a new septic system is expensive. This is especiallypainful if you find that you need to install a new septic system while you're in the process of sellingyour house. And unfortunately, there's no generic answer to how much a septic system will cost. Theonly sure way to find out is to get a number of competing quotes.

Septic systems will vary in price depending on a few different factors such as material costs, the company which you hire to install the system, the area in which you live and the type of septic system which you have installed. In general, gravity-powered conventional septic systems are the least expensive. In some parts of the United States you can get such a system installed for $3,000 - $5,000. On the otherhand, in Massachusetts my neighbors often paid $15,000 or more!

Concrete septic tanks are generally cheaperthan high density polyethylene tanks -- though they won't last as long.Other types of septic systems such as aerobic tank systems cost substantially more, as they require morecomplicated electrical pumps and alarms.

A quick call to your Town Hall should provide you with the costs for any permits you will need during theprocess.

The best approach to estimating your costs is to get on the phone with your friends and neighbors. Findout who had a septic system installed, and which septic companies they used. Local realtors are alsolikely to provide a wealth of information on this topic, as they have likely dealt with home sellerswho needed to have a septic system replaced (likely on very short notice!)

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Estimating the Cost of your Septic System