Thanks to recent rains, fire ant mounds are popping up in lawns across the state. An Alabama Extension entomologist says what appear to be new mounds have been around for probably several months at least.

"Just because you don't see fire ants doesn't mean they aren't there," said Dr. Kathy Flanders, who is also an Auburn University entomology professor. "When it is hot and dry, colonies don't build the high mounds we are all familiar with.

"But when the rains come, they resume mound building and that's why they seem to pop up overnight."

She adds that understanding fire ants, Solenopsis invicta, is key to managing them. "Usually people work too hard, spend too much money and use too much chemical to control fire ants, but it's really easy to control these things if you understand their biology."

Colony basics

Most fire ants in Alabama live in highly territorial single-queen colonies, which may produce on average about 40 mounds per acre. However, in some portions of Alabama, fire ants live in multiple-queen colonies, which are more tolerant of each other and may produce in excess of 200 or even 300 mounds per acre. A colony contains around 300,000 worker ants. The queen ant lays all eggs, and only queens can perform this function.

"When a queen is in full form and has worker ants to help her, a queen can lay up to a 1,000 eggs per day," Flanders said.

The worker ants forage for food, build mounds and protect the queen. When a queen dies, the entire colony will die because there will be no replacements for older workers.

Fire ant baits

Flanders recommends homeowners use fire ant baits as their primary means of control.

Fire ant baits are small particles that contain both a soybean oil food attractant and active ingredient for ant control. Following the bait packaging instructions, homeowners should spread the bait over their entire lawn. The ants will pick up the bait and bring it back to the nest, passing it between colony members including the queen.

"With this method, you take advantage of the ants' normal behavior because they will be foraging for food anyway," Flanders said.

The bait method usually will control 90 percent of fire ant colonies. It is effective and inexpensive at $10 to $20 per acre. Flanders also said the bait is the safest method for children, pets and the environment.

Many people do not understand fire ant biology and try to control the insects using individual mound treatments. Treating individual mounds can be costly and may not offer good control.

First, not all colonies have a visible mound. This means that homeowners will miss treating some colonies. Also, worker ants will often move the queen ant, eggs and larvae away from danger. Worker ants will move the colony if they perceive a threat to the queen or colony and reestablish in a different area. While individual mound treatments may kill worker ants, they are not as effective as the bait method in killing the queen.

"If we miss the queen, we haven't controlled that colony," Flanders said. "Once we kill the queen, we kill the colony."

Two-step method

Flanders said a two-step method that combines bait treatment of an area with spot treatment of nuisance colonies that move into the bait treated area is an effective control strategy. Learn more at http://www.aces.edu/go/752.

"I don't want you to work too hard to control fire ants," she said. "I don't want you to spend too much money, and I don't want you to use too much insecticide.

"That's why baits work for me."

Information on products currently available to treat fire ants in Alabama can be found at http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0175-A/ANR-0175-A.pdf.

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Fire ant mounds popping up after recent rains - Randolph Leader

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Here are some of the most common plants and the pH levels at which they flourish best.

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In honor of one of my favorite holidays (Arbor Day, obviously) and one of my favorite yard components (trees), I proudly present... my guide for proper mulching. Enjoy! Mr. Yardley, Official TruGreen Everyman Spokesperson

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After paying for lawn treatment for more than a year, Angies List member Carol Campbell of San Antonio became suspicious because her lawn's appearance didn't improve. Her technician always came when she was away, and she only knew hed been there after noticing the treatment markers in her yard.

Deciding to set up her own sting operation, she pretended not to be home the next time he came. "The technician rang the doorbell, which I didn't answer, but instead watched as he 'treated' my lawn," she recounted in her 2012 review. "The treatment consisted of the technician walking to the backyard, placing a treatment stake in the yard, and then walking around to the front yard and doing the same. He then got into his truck and drove off. Nothing other than the lawn stake was applied to my lawn."

Campbells review is just one of several that detail negative experiences members have had with lawn fertilization and treatment companies. Unlike with mowing, lawn treatment doesnt produce immediate results, so it can be difficult to monitor the quality of service. In some cases, homeowners went months or even years before realizing they were paying for shoddy service.

Here are four of the top complaints we found in member reviews:

Several members described companies that were eager to take their business, but then avoided them like the plague.

Many cited frustration with trying to file a complaint or dispute a bill. In most cases, the members were unhappy with the quality of service, and when they tried to complain to the company, their calls were never returned or they were told a manager would come out and correct the problem. But as the days turned into weeks, nobody ever returned their calls, and a manager never came to assess their lawns.

"Not only was the fertilizing service poorly done, but when I called to ask them to improve, I never could reach them and they never called me back," wrote Anthony M. of Wexford, Pa., in a September 2012 Angie's List review. "The only time they called me back was to sell me more services." His review noted how he was never able to reach the local office, and all of his complaints were sent to an out-of-state call center.

In another complaint, members said their providers started treatment without first inspecting their lawns.

The members said they hired the company after getting an extremely low quote over the phone. However, when the technician arrived to treat the lawn, they were told there was an unforeseen problem, additional treatments would be needed and, of course, it would cost more money.

Whether a scam was involved or not, many members reported that they paid the extra money out of fear that their lawns would deteriorate. The ones who refused the upcharge were disappointed because they received only partial service.

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Treating Broadleaf Weeds

Broadleaf weeds are the bane of lawn lovers. Dandelions, clover, dollarweed, and others invade quickly and spread relentlessly.

The right time: Treat actively growing weeds; apply granular products on a dewy morning.

Why timing matters: Used properly, broadleaf weed killers are highly effective, but few pest controls fail as readily when conditions aren't optimal. For example, the granules of weed-and-feed products, which are applied with a spreader, must stick to the leaves of the weeds to be effective. That requires moisture. The perfect time to apply, therefore, is an early morning when there's a heavy dew on the lawn -- the heavier the better. If the grass isn't wet, you'll be wasting your time and money.

Whether you use a granular weed-and-feed or spray a liquid broadleaf weed killer, the weeds must be well watered and actively growing for the chemical to work. Thus, treating during a hot, dry spell in summer may yield disappointing results. Spring and fall, when temperatures are moderate and moisture plentiful, are ideal times.

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Pre-emergent herbicides, or weed preventers, control crabgrass and other weeds by stopping their seeds from germinating. An application early in the growing season works wonders; it's like vaccinating your lawn against weeds.

The right time: Apply preventer when forsythia blooms drop.

Why timing matters: Weed preventers are not effective against weeds that have already begun to grow, so you must apply them before germination to gain any benefit. Crabgrass, the primary target of lawn weed preventers, normally germinates just after forsythia blooms, so take your cue from Mother Nature. When you notice forsythia bushes dropping their blossoms (March to May, depending on your region), apply weed preventer, and water as soon as possible to activate it.

Need to reseed? For cool-season grasses, fall is the ideal time; plant warm-season grasses in late spring. But remember: Don't apply crabgrass preventer at the same time that you plant seed; it stops seedlings from growing.

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GRUEsome Grass Lawn Care Service and Landscape

GRUEsome Grass Lawn Care and is a full service commercial and residential lawn care service. Our goal is to provide the level of service that simply is not available through your typical Lawn Care Company. We take pride in exceeding the levels of professionalism you expect from a lawn service company.

GRUEsome Grass LLC is located in the Union County area. GRUEsome Grass LLC is a complete lawn maintenance service for all types of properties. GRUEsome Grass LLC understands how important your lawn is to you and feel the same way. We love what we do. This is a fully insured and licensed company so you can rest at ease when work is to be done on your property. We are not a fly by night company, here today gone tomorrow. Companies that do not carry insurance or license, or have illegal employees can cost you more money if an accident occurs. We will be there week after week. Uniformed crews take pride in your account and will listen to what your needs.

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Creating and keeping a healthy lawn unfortunately demands a lot of labor and care. The effort that you put out to put your lawn in now, will determine the quality of your lawn for many years to come. It will also make a major difference in the amount of upkeep and maintainance you will have to perform in the future. Conditioning the Soil to Grow a New Lawn The condition and type of the soil under the grass is the most important element to the overall health of your lawn. In situations where you are putting in a new lawn you will have ample opportunity to prepare the soil before the grass is planted. It is a good idea to have the soil tested before establishing your new lawn. The soil test report gives the type and amount of fertilizer to apply for your lawn. This fertilizer (and lime, if required) should be worked into the top four to six inches of your soil. Once your lawn is established it is hard to do much to improve the soil at the root level. Proper preparation of the soil is the first step in attaining a healthy lawn. The soil should be tilled thoroughly, either by a mechanical tiller or digging down a spades depth over the entire area. If you've added topsoil to your yard, you will want to be certain that it is well mixed in with the soil underneath. Otherwise it is possible that the roots of your lawn may not penetrate the native soil. If the tilth of the soil is very heavy or sandy, organic material such as peat moss, compost, sludge or even sawdust should be added. (If sawdust is added to the soil it is wise to add extra high nitrogen fertilizer to compensate for the nitrogen loss that is caused by the composting of the sawdust.) Test and Adjust Your Soil pH Most lawn grasses do well in mildly acid soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, preferably about 6.5. You need to decide what type of lawn grass you want to grow, according to your climate, soils, and what the lawn will be used for. Your local nurseries or agricultural agency will be able to help you with this decision. Once this choice is made, you can prepare your soil accordingly. If the soil test shows high acidity, ground limestone should be added at a rate of 50-100 pounds for each pH point below 7 per every 1000 sq. ft. of lawn. If the test shows alkaline soil (above pH 8.0) on the other hand, sulfer should be added at a rate of 20 pounds for every 1000 sq. ft. of surface area. Add any other fertilizers which were recommended by the soil test. The soil should then be well tilled again to mix in these added components. The soil is now ready to be raked smooth, filling low spots and removing the humps and breaking up the larger clumps as you go. Phosphorus is slow to be absorbed into the soil, and next to impossible to introduce to the root zone once the lawn is in, so now is the time to mix some superphosphate into the top few inches of the soil. Use a cultivator to mix it in at a rate of 50 pounds per 1000 sq. ft Using a steel garden rake, create a finished grade sloped slightly away from the house. Use this oportunity to create very shallow channels to deal with any runoff problems you are aware of and to move water runoff away from the house. Level the soil to avoid any low spots where water may stand, or high spots that could cause the future lawn to be 'scalped' when you mow. If you are planning to install an automatic sprinkler system, now is your last, best time to get it in place! Roll the entire lawn bed with a roller (available from rental centers) to firm it up, then water it lightly to settle the area. Lawn Grass Varieties and Types Selecting the proper grass seed mixture is important. What you intend to use the lawn area for and the amount of maintenance you're willing to provide, are two important factors which should be considered before making the selection. Normally you will buy a lawn seed mix which has been formulated with different seed types for different needs and different climates. There are mixes which are designed for play areas which are composed of tough and durable grasses, or fine bladed grasses for a lush, immaculate lawn in the sun, or you may need a variety that thrives in the shade. No matter what your needs, there is probably a 'most appropriate' seed blend just for you. Read the seed bag before you buy, to make certain it is the right mix for your needs. Kentucky bluegrass germinates in 14 to 28 days. Use 2 to 3 pounds of seed per thousand square feet. Plant in early fall or early spring. Grows well in full sun to part shade. Does not do well in hot exposures. Perennial ryegrasses germinate in 5 to 7 days. Use 4 to 6 pounds of seed per thousand square feet. Best planted in the early fall. Grows well in full sun to part shade. Does not do well in hot exposures. Fine-leaved fescues germinate in 14 to 21 days. Use 8 to 10 pounds of seed per thousand square feet. Plant in early fall or spring. Grows well in full sun to light shade.Slower growing and more water efficient than tall fescue. Tall Fescues germinate in 7 to 10 days. Use 8 to 10 pounds of seed per thousand square feet. Plant in early fall or spring. Grows well in full sun to very light shade. Bermuda grasses germinate in 5 to 7 days. Use 1 to 2 pounds of seed per thousand square feet. Plant in summer in full sun. Durable. There are three common methods for planting your new lawn, seeding sod, and by plugs. The most cost effective method is by seeding, but this is a slow process. If you are looking for an instant lawn, sod is your answer. Planting a New Lawn with Seeds The best time to seed lawns is from late summer until early fall (August 15 to September 20) while the soil is still warm (faster germination), watering will not be as much of a problem, there will be fewer weed problems, and the cool season grasses in the mix will have a better chance of getting established. The best and most even results are usually achieved using a 'whirlybird' hand crank operated seed spreader. Sow of your seed (at the recommended rate) to the entire lawn area. Repeat three more applications like this, each in a different direction. Rake the seed lightly into the surface of the soil using a bamboo or fan rake. (Barely brush the seed under the surface of the soil.) Roll the entire lawn surface with an empty lawn roller to set the seed in good contact with the soil. Water the entire area thoroughly with a fine mist. Once the seed is planted, make sure that the soil is kept evenly moist until germination. After the seeds germinate, you can water more heavily but less frequently. DO NOT OVER WATER and do not use a strong spray. You don't want to drown the seeds, nor do you want to wash them away. Water will continue to be a prime concern for your new lawn. About one inch of water per week (rainfall plus irrigation) will be required until your lawn is well established. You may mow a newly seeded turf when the grass is 2 1/2-3 inches tall. Use a SHARP mower so the grass is cut cleanly, and the plants are not pulled out of the ground. Do not cut the grass too short, about 2 to 2 1/2 inches is a good height for a first cut. After the first mowing you can apply a high nitrogen, turf fertilizer (23-4-6) at one-half the application rate recommended on the bag. Water immediately to prevent possible foliar burn. Planting a New Sod Lawn Sod is quite a bit more expensive than seeding but it does have the big advantage of giving you an instant lawn, with far less headaches. Sod also has the advantage that it can be installed any month of the year. Special care must be taken during the hot months of the summer to insure the new sod lawn receives adequate water! Be certain that the sod you buy is fresh and viable. It should be slightly moist, green, and a minimum of " to an inch thick. Lift up a piece by the end. If the sod is in good condition it will hold together tightly. Prepare the lawn bed as you would for seeding. Scatter a recommended 'pre-plant' fertilizer over entire area to be sodded at a rate of 1 pound per 100 sq. ft. Choose a long, straight line as a starting point to lay the sod. Lay the sod out so that the end seam from one row doesn't line up with the seams in the previous and following rows. Avoid gaps, press the pieces together tightly, to help them knit together. Cut or trim the sod with a sharp knife when needed to fit into odd corners. The cut offs can be used to fill in other spaces. (Avoid small pieces because they dry out too quickly) Don't wait until entire lawn has been installed to begin watering. New sod must be kept moist, so as soon you have layed out your first few rows you should begin watering it in. Roll the sod with a light water roller to make sure the sod has good root contact with the soil and to eliminate air pockets. Water the sod 2 or 3 times a day for at least ten days. During this critical period, the sod must be kept constantly moist. During the first two weeks, heavy traffic should be avoided. After that time, the new sod should have established roots and regular mowing may begin. Planting a Lawn with Plugs and Sprigs Plugs and sprigs are primarily used for planting smaller lawn areas and are commonly used in warmer regions of the country. They are small sections or pieces of container grown grass, usually consisting of hybrid Bermudas, Zoysia or St. Augustine grasses. Prepare the area as you would for a lawn bed or any other perennial planting area. Plant the plugs in the soil spaced about every six to twelve inches apart so that they will spread and fill in to form an entire lawn. Firm the soil around the roots. Water immediately after planting, and then every other day, to ensure that the soil remains moist. The lawn will begin to fill in during the first month and by the end of the second month, you will be ready to mow.

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When a St Augustine lawn or a section of a lawn fails for whatever reason you have several options. The most turned to option is replacing the lawn with St Augustine sod sodding is stripping St Augustine turf from a field and planting it on your lawn. Sodding a lawn brings instant gratification the failed lawn is preplaced by a successful lawn within hours.

The primary goal of preparing your lawn for sodding is to have soil to soil contact where the soil side of the sod is in contact with the soil of your lawn. There is lot of flexibility on how you achieve soil to soil contact, but the best method is to strip the existing weeds and such from your lawn with a sod cutter. This not only exposes the soil for soil to soil contact but often leaves a very level surface.

In Pinellas County, there is no month that you cannot plant St Augustine sod. Every season has its pros and cons but rarely (if ever) will St Augustine sod fail because of when the sod was planted. The best time to plant St Augustine sod is the wet warm summer months and the least optimal time would be the cold dry winter months.

Fertilizers are for the soil not the sod. If your lawn has poor unfertile soil as in it hasnt been fertilized in years then any fertilizer will help. The best fertilizer method for St Augustine sod is to apply a fertilizer to the soil before planting the sod. Consider putting about one pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of soil.

Planting sod is as simple as placing the sod pieces edge to edge and trimming borders to the size. No special technique or tips here just get the sod on the ground, green side up. One clue: There are about 450 pieces of sod per pallet and sodding goes quickly if you get in a quick paced rhythm of picking sod and throwing it into place and set your mind to doing just that - 450 times!

The number one determining factor for the success or failure of your newly planted St Augustine sod is water! The sod has no roots and has less area to obtain water than a well-established turf. You must compensate for this by watering every day for at least the first month. In addition to watering, the water must cover the lawn water goes down, it does not move sideways so if you are not watering a spot on the lawn, it will die.

The down side to instant gratification is the cost. A newly sodded lawn is about $4500.00 by contract or about $1000.00 plus a whole weekend of hard labor for the DIY. Renovation is the process of carefully nursing a lawn back to health with good management. However this takes time - often a year or more and you may still need to add sod to severely damaged areas. The up side is that it costs the same as taking care of a newly sodded lawn. For more information on lawn renovation read St Augustine Lawn Renovation | I Love Turf

Authored by Rick Orr

Rick Orr is an Agronomist and Owner/Operator of A Promised Land Lawn Spraying, Inc. A Promised Land Lawn Spraying Inc., is a family owned business serving residential and commercial (large lawn) properties in Clearwater, Largo, Seminole, St Petersburg and all areas of Pinellas County, FL. You can learn more at our Info Page or on Facebook . Follow me on Twitter and Pinterest. To request a a free quote for your St Augustine turf grass lawn, click here-> Request for Proposal<

View this author's website: http://www.iloveturf.com/company-info

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[Army Worm] [Army Worms In Lawn] [Armyworm] [Armyworms] [Army Grub] [Army Grub Control] [Army Grubs]
In this video we look at some [Army Worm] damage at a Kardinia Road, Mosman customer #39;s lawn. --- Have a look at http://LawnGreen.com.au/ to see how you can have a greener weed free lawn!

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[Army Worm] [Army Worms In Lawn] [Armyworm] [Armyworms] [Army Grub] [Army Grub Control] [Army Grubs] - Video