So you have laid out your wiring plan, have all your supplies, and are ready to wire your house.This guide tells you what you need to know to do the actual wiring. This guide will start withsome basic rules, then has some pictures on properly running the wires, and also somepictures that will help you locate where ductwork will be run so that you can avoid it.Finally, there is the "Don't do this" section of common mistakes to avoid.

Start by running the longest wires first. The reason for this is if you have 30' left overin your spool, you might still be able to use it somewhere. If you run the shortest runs first, thenyou will have more waste.

Start each wire upstairs and pull it through to the basement. This way, you do not needto use a ladder to push the wire up between floors.

Do not put two electrical boxes on opposite sides of the same stud. Doing this requires thedrywaller to cut two holes only 1 1/2 inches apart. This is difficult and usuallyresults in a broken piece of drywall that will just be patched later. You should alsonot put an electrical box right in the corner of a room for the same reason.

You will mount your electrical boxes at the same height that the builder's electrician's boxes.This will be around 12-16" from the floor to the bottom of the box. Sometimes, a builder will usetheir hammer height as a standard for mounting boxes. I used a 12" T-Square to measure the height of mine.

You may want to mount all of the electrical boxes first just so you know where you will be running the wires.You can mount the boxes and write on the stud what wires are needed using a sharpie. Then you can get tothe business of running wires without having to go back and keep looking at your wiring plan.

Run all of the wires next. Save the stapling of the wires and placing the wires in the electrical box for the end.For the first one or two wire runs you may want to ignore this rule and install the boxes and staple the wiresdown before you cut the wire just to make sure you understand how much slack you will need.You should also leave at least one foot of extra wire at each end just in case you need to move things around later.

Before drilling any holes, make sure to look at what is on the other side of the wall/floor. Youdon't want to drill through any electrical wires, ductwork, or water pipes...

Do not run wires parallel to any power lines. It is OK to cross a power wire at a 90 degree angle.Power is usually run around the edges of the basement, so run your wires internally along a floor joist.If you need to run your wires perpendicular to a floor joist, try to do it along a duct or I beam.That way if you finish your basement later, these wires wont interfere with a drywall ceiling.

Run the wires vertically from floor ceiling and then along the floor joists. Do not run a wire horizontallyin the middle of a wall. Doing so increases the chance that someone will put a nail through it.Try to keep the wire as close to the stud as possible. This is especially true for an exterior wallwhere insulation will be installed.

After running the wires, make sure to label each end (using stickers or writing on the wirewith a felt tip marker) and make a note of the label for the wire and its location.I use a letter to represent each electrical box, and then a number for each wire in the box.For example: I will label the electrical box behind the entertainment center in the family roomas "A". Each wire in the box gets a number "1", "2", "3"... At the other end at the wiring panelI label the wires "A1", "A2", "A3"...

After the wires are run, you need to staple them down. Stapling keeps the wires in place so that theydon't come out of the electrical boxes. It also holds them up and out of the way of the drywallersand so that they don't hang down in the ceiling. You should always staple the wire right beforeit enters an electrical box, and also right after it comes through the hole in the floor.When running a wire along a stud, try to keep the wire centered in the stud. That reduces the chancethat a nail will go through the wire from either end. For many wires, you can nail the stapleinto the joist/stud and the use a wire tie to attach the wires to that staple. This method alsoensures that the staples cannot damage the wire.

If the end of the wire does not terminate in an electrical box, then you will need to measure the locationof the wire. Measure from the closest corner of the room. Do not measure from a window. Also recordif the wire is on the left or right side of the stud. For example, if the wire is attached to theleft side of a stud, and you record that the wire is 90" away from the wall, when looking for that wirelater your stud finder will tell you that there is a stud at 90". You won't know which sideof the stud to cut the drywall on. For complicated runs, you may even want to use a digital camerato record the location of wires. Also remember to add or subtract 3/4" from the measurementto account for the thickness of the drywall where you will start your measurement.

After running the wires through the electrical box, be sure to shove all of the wires in the box.Drywallers want to work fast, and any wires sticking out of the box may just get drywalled over.They could also get cut as the hole is cut for the electrical box. The builders will probably nottake the time to place the wires in the box themselves. Also, if the wires stick out of the box orare very close to the front of the box then they will get covered in paint and may cover up yourlabeling or the labels could get torn off.

Some people run the wires straight through the box. The wire coming through the bottom of the box isstapled tight to the stud. The wire then passes through the top of the box and is loosely held to thestud with another staple. When finishing the installation, you can pull the end of the wire back into the box.The loose staple only holds it in place for the drywallers. I don't recommend this method becausethe builder should be insulating each electrical box (as long as it is on an exterior wall) with expandingfoam so that you can't get cold air coming through the box. If the builder sprays Great Stuff into theback of each electrical box, then you wont be able to get the end of that wire back into the box.I also don't like using backless electrical boxes for the same reason.

Wait to install the wall plates and in-wall speakers until the drywall has been installed and painted.You can choose to terminate each wire properly as the builder is still working on the home or you can wait untilyou move in. If you finish the installation up front, then there is a chance that the town'sappraiser will see it and you could affect your home's appraised value and tax bill.For my home, I used blank wall plates during the building phase and then finished the work later.Local codes will probably require that you cover all exposed electrical boxes even if there isn'tany power in the box so leaving electrical boxes open is not an option.

When running wires before the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, & Air Condition) installers have donetheir work, you need to run your wires without interfering with what they need to do. The HVAC installerswill install ducts that deliver the hot or cold air to the home, and returns that feed the air back into thefurnace. Vents are usually installed on the floor or low on the wall under a window. The ductwork for asecond floor vent is run vertically on an interior wall, and then across the floor joists for the second floor.Returns are usually near the ceiling on an interior wall. Since air loss isn't an issue on a return, theinstallers don't use ductwork for returns. They will use walls, studs, floor joists... as their duct.Ducts for vents should be avoided inside walls. Returns in the basement should be avoided between thefloor joists. There are some specific examples with drawings and pictures below.

When running wires from the basement to outlets on the first or second floor, be sure to avoid the flue and any HVAC ducts.When possible, avoid running wires in the ceiling against the joists (red wire above). Instead, try to get right under the outlet from the basementand then run it straight up (green wire above). The same goes for in-ceiling speakers. Avoid drilling through the joists if you can.You may also want to review our guide on wiring existing homes for more examples.

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Running the Wires in a New Home - Structured Home Wiring

This parts guide is broken up into three sections. The first is what you will need to run wiring during construction.The second section covers what you need to complete your work. The final section is for running wires in an existing home.You do not necessarily need everything in this list, and you may find some things listed here (like a pen) are really obvious.Still I listed them anyway because not having a pen while at your home under construction which is 20 miles from your current home is no fun.

There are many reasons you will need a step stool or ladder, and the step stool is easier to carry around. You will need a stool for tacking up wires to run along beams in the basement, fishing wires through the ceiling, mounting motion detector wires up high... The step stool is more useful than a ladder because it is easier to carry around.

Sometimes a step stool will not cut it. Remember that you may be running wires above the ceiling. In-ceiling speakers for the first floor will run along the second floor beams. If you have 9' ceilings, the first floor to the second floor is actually 10 feet (with 1' beams supporting the second floor).

You will need a drill to make holes through studs and floors to run your wires. With a corded drill you don't have to worry about batteries, but you can't be sure that your house will even have power when you are wiring it. The wall outlets won't be completed until the drywall is done, so at best you may have an outlet to use in the basement.

Of course you need bits to go with the drill. A 1/2" bit will only allow a couple wires through and will not be enough for all situations. A 1" bit will work for almost (but not quite) everything. Spade (flat) wood drill bits (top in the picture) are cheaper when a larger bit is needed but they can cause problems. Spade bits will get stuck easier and they make it harder to drill straight line which can be a problem if you are drilling through multiple studs. If you need to drill two 1" holes next to each other to run a thick wire (like a DVI cable) a spade bit will not work because it will always jam.

You will need power if you are going to recharge the batteries on your drill. You may also need power for lighting. If you do have a working outlet in the basement, the builder's contractors may already be using it. Bring an extension cord with multiple outlets or a power strip so both you and the contractors will have power. You will also need very long extension cords if the only power source is the electrical box in the basement and you need lighting on the second floor.

A cable reel makes it easier to pull on the wires without them get the tangled. A cable reel can be as simple as an elevated bar and can hold multiple spools of cable. I've even seen people hammer a screwdriver into a stud and use that for a cable reel. It is important to note that the spool of wire must rotate as you pull the wire. If you just pull the wire off the top of the spool it will have a twist to it and make it very hard to run.

Wire staples serve 2 purposes. First, they prevent wires from accidentally being pulled out of an electrical box. Second, they keep your wires neat and tight up near the ceiling in the basement.

You will need a hammer for attaching electrical boxes to studs. You may also use a hammer this to nail in the wire staples, assuming you don't own a staple gun. A claw hammer can also be used to remove staples. It can also to be used with the chisel.

Zip ties can also used to keep your wires neat. You should get the 12" nylon variety. If you are running too many wires for a wire staple, you can use a wire staple to attach the zip tie to a beam and then run the wires through the zip tie.

You will need a good pair of wire cutters to cut your wires, and you can also use them to cleanup the zip ties.

You may also want to consider a low voltage box instead of an electrical box for non-power wires. Check with local codes to see if it is acceptable. These boxes are sometimes easier to work with since they don't have a back. I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and you might get cold outside air coming through them.

Different towns might have specific requirements, but usually electrical boxes are mounted 12-16" above the floor. Note: There are different rules for basements where flooding can be an issue. In my home the boxes were exactly 12" from the floor, and using a 12" Square is a lot easier than a tape measure to measure box height, so bring one if you have it. Otherwise, you could use a tape measure and mark all of the electrical box locations up front. You want to make sure your electrical boxes are the same height as the builder's electrician's boxes or the boxes will look odd next to each other. Sometimes, the electricians will just use the height of their hammer to make sure each box is the same height.

Expanding foam (like Great Stuff) is used to fill in holes in electrical boxes to insulate the home and prevent drafts. Make sure you are absolutely sure that you are done wiring that box before you use the foam. Make sure the type of foam you get can be used for wiring in electrical boxes. The foam can expand to 10 times its original size, so before using the foam in an electrical box you should test it to familiarize yourself with it. You may want to save this step until after you have finished the wiring.

If you end up working late at night you will wish your brought a flashlight. A fluorescent flashlight or good lantern will work better than a spot flash light.

If you know you have power in the basement, you may want to set up a halogen light down there. It gets dark in the basement quick without lights and that is where you will be doing most of your work.

Don't forget to bring a pen and a marker/Sharpie. Use the Sharpie for marking studs and doing your labels. The pen is for taking notes.

Use a notebook or a clipboard so it is easier to take notes. I've tried bringing just paper to write on, but homes under construction end up being really humid and the paper gets trashed. A notebook is better. You will want to record information about each photo and the location of all wires not using electrical boxes.

For any wire that is not in an electrical box (alarm, in-wall speaker, garage door wires...) you will have to go digging through drywall to find it. Have a tape measure to record where the wires are relative to the closest corner. Record the location of the wire, the height from the floor and also indicate what side of the stud the wire is on.

If you have a Digital Camera, use it to take pictures of everything. Since all rooms look the same without walls, you should also record what room and what direction each picture is. You never know when this information will be useful (and not just for wiring purposes).

You might need a flathead screwdriver to remove wire staples if you can't use the claw of your hammer. You will also need a screwdriver to cover the electrical boxes with electric plates once the drywall is installed.

Your town's building codes will probably require electrical plates cover all electrical boxes to pass the electrical inspection before you close, even if there are no wires running electricity in those boxes. I used cheap blank wall plates and then replaced them over time after closing. You could also use the proper wall plates and terminate everything before closing, but then the town may see it and it could affect your final assessment. Make sure your wall plates include screws or you will have to buy them separate.

Whenever using your hammer expanding foam you should wear goggles.

If you are working around insulation, or if the builders are installing the insulation while you are in the home, you should wear a mask.

The warning on the label says you should wear gloves when working with expanding foam.

If your wires don't terminate in an electrical box (speaker wires), then you probably just stapled the end of the wire between two studs. Use a stud finder to make sure you know where the studs are before knocking holes in the wall or ceiling. You don't want to cut a template for a speaker and find that part of your hole is over a stud.

For stripping speaker wire or network cable. You could also use a razor blade for some applications.

There are special crimpers for coaxial cable. You should look for one that supports both RG59 and RG6 connectors. It should also be a ratcheting tool, meaning that the tool will not reopen until you have squeezed it tight enough.

You will also need a special crimper(s) for Cat-5e Data/Internet connectors (called RJ45) and Cat3 Phone connectors (called RJ11). Note: Punch blocks and some wall plates don't require you to crimp a connector on the end of the cable so this tool may not be necessary. You may find one tool that can do both types of cables.

For mounting outlets and wall plates and also for wiring an alarm system.

An alternative to a wiring panel is to mount everything to a board. You can now get 2'x4' boards which are just the right size. You can also use 2"x4"'s so that the board is not mounted directly to the concrete wall. That way, every time you screw through the board you are not hitting concrete.

For a basement you will need concrete screws or sinkers and a masonry drill bit. For a drywall installation you will need drywall mounts or drill directly into a stud (preferred).

A coil of rigid steel used to fish wire through walls after the drywall has been installed. First run the fish tape through the wall, attach (tape) your wire to the end, then pull the fish back through the wall.

These flexible drill bits are usually 3' to 6' long and allow you to drill through multiple studs, joists, or through the top/bottom wall plates and you only need to cut a single small hole in the drywall. Just make sure you look before you drill.

You will need electrical tape to attach your wires to the fish tape.

For cutting holes in drywall for new outlets or speakers.

You may need to use a hammer and chisel to notch holes in studs or joists if you need to run a wire across the wall or ceiling.

Old work electrical boxes don't nail directly to the stud. Instead they have flaps that expand out and pinch the drywall after you insert the box through the hole.

Low voltage boxes don't have a back and may be easier to deal with when there are a lot of wires. Don't use these boxes for power wire. Also, I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and could let cold air into the home.

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DIY Home Wiring - Parts / Tools Guide

Your homes wiring consists of a few different types of wiring, including non-metallic cable (commonly called Romex), Bx cable, and wiring concealed in conduit. NM cable is the most common type of circuit wiring. It is suitable for use in dry, protected areas (inside stud walls, on the sides of joists, etc.) that are not subject to mechanical damage or excessive heat.

Bx cable, also known as armored cable, consists of wires running inside a flexible aluminum or steel sheath that is somewhat resistant to damage. It is commonly used where wiring for appliances, such as dishwashers and garbage disposers, is exposed.

Conduit is a rigid metal or plastic tubing that protects individual insulated wires. It is used in garages, sheds, and outdoor applications where the wiring must be protected from exposure.

Wires running inside NM cable, Bx cable, or conduit are sized according to each circuit's amperage. Wire size is given in its gauge number. The lower the gauge, the larger the wire, and the more current it can handle. For example, wiring for 20-amp circuits is 12-gauge, which is heavier than the 14-gauge wiring used for 15-amp circuits.

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Home Electrical Basics 101 - The Spruce

Electrical wiring is a process of connecting different accessories for the distribution of electrical energy from the supplier to various appliances and equipment at home like television, lamps, air conditioners, etc.

Let us look at the different types of electrical wiring that are used in domestic properties.

This wiring comprises of PVC insulated wires or ordinary VIR that are braided and compounded. They are held on walls and ceilings using porcelain cleats with groves, wood or plastic. It is a temporary wiring system, therefore making it unsuitable for domestic premises. Moreover, cleat wiring system is rarely being used these days.

It was quite popular in the past but it is considered obsolete these days due to the popularity of the conduit and sheathed wiring system. The cables used in this electric wiring were PVC, VIR or any other approved insulated cables. The cables were carried through the wooden casing enclosures, where the casing was made of a strip of wood with parallel grooves cut lengthwise for accommodating the cables.

This is when a single electrical wire or a group of wires are laid over a wooden batten. The wires are held to the batten using a brass clip and spaced at an interval of 10 cm for horizontal runs and 15 cm for vertical runs.

Lead sheathed wiring uses conductors which are insulated with VIR and are covered with an outer sheath of lead aluminum alloy which contains about 95% lead. The metal sheath gives protection to cables from mechanical damage, moisture and atmospheric corrosion.

There are two types of conduit wiring according to pipe installation:

Here are some Advantages and Disadvantages of Concealed Conduit Wiring System

Advantages

Disadvantages

When the wiring is not done properly or isnt maintained well, it may lead to dangerous situations such as electrical fires. Therefore, it is important that you take a lot of care while installing electrical wires and cables. If you are wondering which electrical wiring to install at your home, call us at D&F Liquidators, Inc. as we have a wide range of wiring at competitive prices and our experienced team will guide you through the selection process.

D&F Liquidators has been serving the electrical construction materials needs for more than 30 years. It is an international clearing house, with 180,000 square facility located in Hayward, California. It keeps an extensive inventory of electrical connectors, conduit fitting, circuit breakers, junction boxes, wire cable, safety switches etc. It procures its electrical materials supplies from top notch companies across the globe. The Company also keeps an extensive inventory of electrical explosion proof products and modern electrical lighting solutions. As it buys materials in bulk, D&F is in a unique position to offer competitive pricing structure. Besides, it is able to meet the most discerning demands and ship material on the same day.

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All About House Electrical Wiring System - A Small Guide

Part one of structured wiring options for home and business connectivity

Family homes, as well as businesses, are now requiring better network solutions for ever-increasing demands for data. As a start, a whole-house network can greatly benefit from an efficient structured wiring plan.

What is structured wiring?

Structured wiring refers to a system that expands on the old simple requirement, which was based on only telephone lines, to now include video, audio and data. With more components being added to the network like security monitoring and kitchen appliance automation, connectivity is more complex and requires a strategy.

Also known as star wiring because of its resemblance to a starburst shape, home run wiring consists of a number of home runs from a central distribution point to various places in a building or home. Each home run:

Is a dedicated line that can provide the strongest possible signal to each device on the network

Is independent of each other and can be made from different types of cabling includingEthernet,coaxial and fiber.

The main component in a home run wiring scheme is the central distribution point which, depending on the type and size of network, can be a router, hub or structured network panel (SNP).

This point will be connected to the world by service from an outside service provider and should be able to handle large data bandwidths. Placement depends on the most suitable compromise between the entry point of service and an optimal location for connecting to the various distribution points.

In new homes, the SNP is often placed in the basement but an upstairs office has advantages as well. Sometimes an attic above or crawlspace below will help, yet at some point cabling might have to go through walls and ceilings. Because of this its much easier to install during construction. In fact, it has become a selling feature for new buildings.

Due to increasing demands for higher bandwidth the use of high quality SNP enclosures and high speed cabling is required. Cabling can be installed at the same time as other electrical outlets as usually power and data will be side by side.

Upgrading existing homes is also much easier during a reno or remodel and sometimes a hybrid system of structured wiring and WiFi can be used. In this case WiFi transparent panels are recommended so wireless modems can be installed inside. The enclosures are made from plastic that wont interfere with wireless signals.

The alternative to home run wiring is the traditional method of daisy chaining that has always been used for electrical and plumbing systems. In this system, a single cable or wire is run between more than one outlet before termination.

Most installers believe home run wiring scores a number of advantages over daisy chaining but there are pros and cons to both, which we will discuss in our next blog post. We will also look at incorporating a hybrid system of wireless access points and structured wiring.

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What exactly is home run wiring? - Primex Technologies Inc.

A home wiring diagram is a visual representation of the electrical system or circuit in a house. This article is an ultimate tutorial for home wiring diagram.

Understanding diagram for home wiring is important for installing domestic wiring system. It works as a design blueprint and it shows how the wires are connected and where the outlets should be located as well as the actual connections between the electrical components. Diagrams for home wiring can assist in building the circuit and electrical system.

The picture below shows what a common home wiring diagram looks like:

Edraw floor plan maker, as a professional wiring diagram software, contains a large range of wiring plan symbols that used on wiring diagrams, such as switches, lightings, and light bars. Most symbols look like the real objects they represent. So it would not be hard to find the right one needed.

Lighting

Electrical and Telecom

Edraw makes creating a home wiring diagram a snap! This home wiring diagram maker can help create accurate diagrams for your house with a large amount of electrical and lighting symbols. In addition, it allows you to customize your own design for the home wiring layout.

Basic Steps to Create a Diagram for Home Wiring

Here is an example for home wiring diagrams for your reference. Click on the image and you can download it for free!

Edraw Max is perfect not only for professional-looking flowcharts, organizational charts, mind maps, but also network diagrams, floor plans, workflows, fashion designs, UML diagrams, electrical diagrams, science illustration, charts and graphs... and that is just the beginning!

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Ultimate Tutorial for Home Wiring Diagram - Edraw Max

This informative video demonstrates how to use an electrical meter to troubleshoot a common wiring problem - identifying which wires to connect to a new fixture. Continue reading ...

An explanation of how a GFCI or ground fault circuit protector works and how it protects us from electric shock. Continue reading ...

Testing a circuit to make sure the power is off is a critical step in any DIY home electrical wiring project. Learn how simple voltage testers can be used to confirm this. Continue readin...

A question about what to do when the cable is too short to reach the new junction box location when replacing a range hood fan. Continue reading ...

We're back in Mexico and have posted pictures of some potentially dangerous electrical wiring situations, and an example of how to make the best of a bad situation with duct tape! Continue r...

There can be a number of possible causes of a power loss to a circuit. In the following article I review the steps to narrowing down one possible cause for a loss of power and how to remed...

This article examines the possible causes of a faulty GFCI receptacle, how to use a tester to determine if the GFCI receptacle is faulty, and how to replace the receptacle. Continue reading ...

In this article and supplementary video, I demonstrate how to add outdoor patio lighting using LED tape lights. In the example of this specific project, adding LED tape lights to the pati...

In this article and supplementary video I share what I consider to be the best way to wrap an extension cord. It all starts with a scenario that may be very familiar to you. You need a l...

Nothing feels better on a hot summer day than the cooling breeze of a ceiling fan. Plus, the addition of a ceiling fan in a bedroom can make the difference between a pleasant evening or a ...

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Electrical Online - The Basics of Household Wiring DVD

Whenever we flip a switch, plug in an appliance, or adjust a reading light, we interact with the electrical system in a house. A good electrician can make those interactions easier in a hundred little ways, so it's best to communicate your needs earlyideally after the house is framed and before the drywall or insulation goes up.

That's when master electrician Allen Gallant, who has wired many This Old House TV projects, takes his customers on a job-site walk-through, showing where he plans to put switches, lights, and receptacles. "I'll even ask them if they're left-handed or right-handed," he says. "It makes a big difference when you're looking for the light switch." It's easy to make changes at this point in the process, but once the walls are closed in, any second thoughts become far more difficult and expensive to implement.

Once Gallant starts wiring a house, virtually every aspect of his work is controlled by codes, both local and national. These codes are the final word on safe installation practices. Gallant is meticulous in adhering to them, yet he often goes a step further to make his electrical systems even safer and easier to use. On the following pages, you'll see the basics of wiring a house to meet code, along with a look at Gallant's extras.

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From the Ground Up: Electrical Wiring | This Old House

By Insure.com - Last updated: Dec. 7, 2009

Proper maintenance is key.

Many homes built prior to 1950 have a type of electrical wiring known as "knob and tube." This wiring consists of porcelain insulating tubes that contain wires whereas modern wiring is usually run through plastic or PVC tubes. The porcelain tubes pass through beams, rafters, and walls, and porcelain knobs are used to carry the wire around corners.

At times, homeowners with this older wiring can find it difficult to obtain insurance on such homes because some insurance companies are skittish about taking on a house they perceive as risky.

Many insurers require an inspection to show that the coating on the wiring is in good condition. If it is, they may write you a policy. If the coating is cracked or deteriorating, or if a determination can't be made, the insurer may ask the homeowner to hire a qualified electrician for further evaluation and/or repairs.

Because older houses often have a lower capacity in their wiring systems, homeowners should make sure they don't have too many electrical gadgets plugged in, such as computers, stereos, and so forth. An electrical overload could easily result in a fire.

Knob and tube wiring may continue to be safe to use. Proper maintenance is the key. Where wire insulation is brittle or cracked, it should be replaced, according to Mark W. Earley, assistant vice president and chief electrical engineer for the National Fire Protection Association. Earley points out that proper maintenance is important with all electrical system components.

State Farm Insurance Co., for example, doesn't look favorably on houses with knob and tube wiring, says Phil Supple, a company spokesperson. Supple points to two concerns: First is the age of the house. "Because knob and tube was generally used so long ago, we are concerned about the deterioration of the electrical system as a whole," Supple explains.

Second, State Farm worries about the lack of a ground wire with this style of wiring. Knob and tube consists of two wires: a "hot" one that carries electricity to its destination and a "neutral" one that completes the circuit. Modern wiring systems reduce the chances for creating a fire hazard through the use of a grounding wire.

Having a circuit breaker can help lower the risk for a fire in a home with knob and tube wiring.

State Farm requires a certificate of inspection from a qualified electrician before it will insure an older home, and if the electrician gives a favorable assessment, the company may consider writing insurance for the house.

Mike Johnston, education coordinator for codes and standards for the International Association of Electrical Standards, agrees that the lack of a ground wire can be a problem, especially if the wiring is old and in shoddy shape.

Some insurers may also point to the lack of circuit breakers as a potential problem with knob and tube wiring. Having a circuit breaker can help lower the risk for a fire in a home with knob and tube wiring.

In the end, any homeowner with knob and tube wiring, or the potential buyer of such a house, should hire an electrician to give the system a complete check. If an inspection uncovers problems, you should make the necessary repairs for personal safety as well as insurance concerns.

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Insuring an old home that has knob and tube wiring

Do-it-yourself guide with professional techniques for a safe wiring job.

Plastic boxes and flexible nonmetallic cable (commonly called Romex) put electrical wiring projects within the skill range of every dedicated DIYer. In this article, well show you some house wiring basicshow to position outlet and switch boxes and run electrical cable between them. We wont cover many other house wiring details. For help with circuit design and making connections to your main electrical panel, we recommend you consult a licensed electrician.

Besides standard hand tools, youll need a special-purpose tool to cut and strip electric wire. We like the Klein No. 1412 ($18 at hardware stores and home centers). To drill a few holes, use a 3/4-in. spade bit in your electric drill. For larger jobs, rent a heavy-duty right angle drill ($25 per day) and equip it with a 3/4-in. x 6-in. auger bit ($7).

Electrical house wiring mistakes can be deadly, so make sure you obtain a permit from your local building department and have the work inspected when youre finished. Draw a sketch of your room that shows lighting, switch and outlet locations. Review your plan with the inspector and ask whether there are any special requirements.

Measure and mark the center of each box. Use letters and symbols to identify boxes. Add 24 blocks to position boxes away from wide window and door trim.

Position the box so its face will be flush with the wall covering material. Then nail the box to the framing. Double check that the face of the box is parallel with the framing member.

Adjustable depth boxes cost about $2.

First mark the box locations on the studs (Photo 1) using symbols to indicate outlets, switches and lights.

O// = Duplex receptacle; S = Single switch; S3 = Three-way switch;O+ = Light fixture.

Mark the height from the floor to the center of the boxes (usually 48 in. for switches and 12 in. for outlets) or line them up with existing boxes. Then nail up the boxes so the face of the box will be flush with the face of the future wall covering (Photo 2). Most boxes have nibs or marks to help you align the box for use with standard 1/2-in. thick drywall. If youre not sure how thick the final wall material will be, use a special adjustable depth box. Paddle fans require a special box assembly that is rated to support the weight and stress of a spinning fan (see Special Boxes, at the end of this story).

The electrical code limits how many wires you can safely put in an electrical box. To figure the minimum box size required by the National Electrical Code, add:

1 for each hot and neutral wire entering the box1 for all the ground wires combined1 for all the cable clamps combined (if any)2 for each device (switch or outlet-but not light fixtures)

Multiply the total by 2 for 14-gauge wire and 2.25 for 12-gauge wire to get the minimum box size required in cubic inches. Plastic boxes have their volume stamped inside. Steel box capacities are listed in the electrical code.

Bore 3/4-in. holes through the framing members about 8 in. above the boxes. Center the bit on the stud, brace the drill and apply pressure with your thigh for easier drilling of wall studs.

Angle the bit into tight spots. Eyeball the angle to make sure theres at least 1-1/4 in. between the back face of the stud and the cable (Fig. A). Then cover the face of the stud with a metal nail plate to protect the cable where the hole is closer than 1-1/4 in. to the face of the stud (Photo 6).

Rough-in wiring detail.

3/4 x 6 auger bit

With the boxes nailed up, youre ready to drill holes and pull cable. The holes and the cable running through them must be at least 1-1/4 in. from both faces of the stud to prevent nails and screws from hitting the cable (Photo 3).

This means drilling dead center on 24 walls. If you have to drill closer to the face of the stud, protect the area with a nail plate (Photo 6). When you drill floor or ceiling joists, drill toward the end rather than the middle of the span, and keep the holes centered on the width of the joist. You can easily pull two 14-2 or 12-2 cables or one 14-3 or 12-3 cable through a 3/4-in. hole. Drill more holes for additional cables.

When you drill through wall plates (the horizontal framing members on the top and bottom of the wall), keep the hole a few inches from the stud to avoid hitting nails.

Straighten about 12 ft. of cable and thread it through the holes from one box to the next. When you reach each new box, follow the stripping procedure shown in Photo 7, push the conductors and about 1/4 in. of sheathed cable into the box, and staple the cable (Photo 8). Then cut the end still connected to the coil and repeat the process at the other box.

Fish the cable around corners by bending a sharp hook in it. Then stick your little finger into the hole to feel for the cable and guide it through as you apply pressure with the other hand.

Grab the cable at the point you estimate it will enter the box. Cut the cable about 12 in. beyond this spot and strip off all but about 1 in. of sheathing.

Stripping tool, Klein NO. 1412

When youre done drilling holes, pull the cable between the boxes and to the service panel to complete the circuit. Start by pulling about eight loops from the center of the coil and tossing them away from you. Then pull the 12-ft. length of cable back between your thumb and forefinger to remove the twist and straighten it out. The whole process takes only a few seconds and keeps the cable from twisting and kinking as you pull it through the holes (Photo 5).

Once youve pulled the cable through the holes, push it back a little to leave a small amount of slack. This is handy insurance in case you cut the cable a little short and need extra length, and it also allows other tradespeople a little slack to push your wire out of the way.

Photo 6 shows one method of getting the cable around a corner. But keep in mind that its often faster and easier to drill up through the double top plate of the wall and route the cable up over the corner and down the other side.

Remove about 12 in. of the white outer plastic sheathing from the cable before you push it into the box (Photo 7). Use a stripping tool like ours for 12-2 and 14-2 cable, or an inexpensive ($2.50) sheathing stripper that works on all cables. You can also use a sharp knife to slit the sheath, but if you nick the insulation on the electric wire, cut the cable off at that point and try again.

Push the cable into the box so that at least 1/4 in. of sheathing is visible inside the box. The National Electrical Code requires that at least 3 in. of wire protrude beyond the face of the box, but we recommend at least 6 in.

Position outlets so that no point in any wall space is more than 6 ft. from an outlet without crossing a doorway. Install an outlet in every wall section thats 2 ft. wide or wider.

Heres what electrical cable looks like inside.

Punch a hole (or two for two cables) through the knockout area of the box with a screwdriver or the point on your stripping tool. Push the conductors and about 1/4 in. of sheathed cable into the box and staple the cable within 8 in. of the box. The cable must be at least 1-1/4 in. from the face of the framing. Push the first cable aside while you staple the second cable.

Run cable(s) from your completed circuits to the service panel. Leave 4 extra feet of cable for the electrician to work with. Label the cables with the location of the circuit. Then call in the electrician to connect the circuits.

Next staple the cable in place. Position the staples in the following locations:

Because cables must be kept at least 1-1/4 in. from the face of studs, you cant staple them side by side along a 24. The electrical code also prohibits you from placing more than one cable under standard 1/2-in. staples. Instead, weave the cables (Photo 8) or use special cable stackers.

For safe wire connections, cut all the wires to leave at least 6 in. protruding past the face of the box. Leave one bare copper ground wire an extra 6 in. long. Thread the long ground wire through the hole in the top of the special green wire connector and splice all the ground wires by holding them together and twisting the connector clockwise until its tight. Strip the ends of the white and black wires and one end of each 6-in.-long pigtail and splice them with wire connectors. Cover the unstripped end of the black (hot) pigtail with a wire connector for safety.

Group and label the wires in the switch boxes so youll know how to connect them after the drywall is complete.

Fold and pack the wires neatly into the box to conserve space and reduce pressure on connections. Label wires with scraps of cable sheathing.

Complete the rough-in phase of the wiring job by connecting the appropriate wires with wire connectors, adding short lengths of wire (pigtails) where theyre needed and folding all the wires neatly into the boxes.

Photos 11 and 12 illustrate a number of important concepts and handy tips for making up any box. In addition, follow these guidelines:

Protect the cable in 1-1/2 in. or thinner walls by running it through 1/2-in. metal conduit. Anchor a 4 x 4 x 1-1/2 in. metal junction box and attach a length of conduit to it with a conduit connector (youll need two conduits for two cables). Secure another conduit connector to the top of the conduit to protect the cable from the sharp edge of the pipe. Secure the conduit with a conduit strap. Attach the ground wire to the metal box with a ground screw driven into the threaded hole. Finally, cover the box with a plaster ring that matches the wall covering thickness.

Special box: Paddle fan box with bar hanger

Special box: Light fixture or paddle fan box

For an average-size room, youll be able to buy all the electrical rough-in supplies youll need at hardware stores or home centers for less than $100. Heres what to buy:

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Link:
How to Rough-In Electrical Wiring | The Family Handyman