But as voters moved to the South, the West, and city suburbs, politics changed. Assistance to cities peaked in 1978, the same year Jimmy Carter said in his State of the Union address, Government cannot eliminate poverty or provide a bountiful economy or reduce inflation or save our cities or cure illiteracy or provide energy. Between 1980 and 1988, during Reagans presidency, total intergovernmental aid to cities fell by half.

Mandatory balanced budget rules forced states to reduce funding to cities. Lacking support from federal and state governments to meet urgent obligations, cities turned to the bond markets, subjecting themselves to market volatility. The recent financial crisis revealed the unsustainable position of cities that resulted from the risk and leverage they acquired. During the crisis governmental support continued to fall, leaving cities without a buffer against the market downturn.

Meanwhile demands for social services in cities increased. In order to maintain solvency cities turned to the limited options available to them: reducing services, raising taxes and user fees, borrowing more money by issuing municipal bonds, and competing for private investment by offering tax deals and incentives to companies. Not all cities had the capacity to stabilize their budgets through these actions.

Bankruptcy offered federal and state governments a way to avoid bailing out the cities that lacked the capacity. Politicians branded municipal budget shortfalls as the fault of entitled municipal workers and retirees and reckless borrowing by municipal leaders. In 2012 Stockton, California, became the then-largest city to file for bankruptcy, and the bankruptcy process rewrote Stocktons union contracts. By the end of 2012 three more California cities had filed for bankruptcy, and nine more had declared financial emergencies.

In 2013 Detroit broke Stocktons record and assumed the mantle of the largest city ever to enter bankruptcy. Detroit became emblematic. The problems Detroit confronted paralleled problems in many other American cities. Though a few unique cities have attracted the optimal industries and population to win the spoils of the modern economy, many cities have failed to manage persistent unemployment, stagnant wages, and rising inequality. Without outside help from their state and local governments, more than 70 American municipalities since 2007 have entered bankruptcy and been forced to write down their debt on their own. Several hundred more cities now struggle on the brink of default and are shrinking public payrolls, cutting services, and selling public lands. Cities have suffered the brunt of mortgage foreclosures and declining property values and have generally been home to the largest numbers of poor and marginalized Americans, those most dependent on public services.

Detroits bankruptcy offered an opportunity to test whether bankruptcy could affect cuts to cities pension obligations. Many states constitutions, including Michigans, protected pension contracts against modifications, but federal bankruptcy law allowed any contract to be changed during bankruptcy. In one of the few rulings in the case the Detroit bankruptcy judge found federal bankruptcy law could supersede state pension protections.

Through bankruptcys exclusive focus on cities culpability for fiscal crisis, its lack of attention to the people affected, and its implicit demand for cities to solve their problems on their own, we have overestimated the ability of cities and their residents to combat powerful forces like automation, suburbanization, the recent financial crisis, and deindustrialization. We have underestimated the resources and tools necessary to change the trajectory of cities and the importance of sustainable cities. We have neglected our fellow citizens, who have been forced to endure reduced services, high taxes, and insufficient human investment.

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Broke: Hardship and Resilience in a City of Broken Promises, by Jodie Adams Kirshner: An Excerpt - The New York Times

A Calgary retiree says he was "sick to his stomach" after learning his bank wired more than $800,000 of his savings to fraudsters despite security red flags.

Rod McLeod, 75, was a longtime customer with Cidel Bank one of dozens of private banks in Canada that handle wealth management for people with high incomes or sizeable assets.

"It has turned my life upside down," says McLeod, a retired lawyer. "I expected them to protect me."

McLeod is suing, alleging "negligence, breach of contract and breach of fiduciary duty" by Cidel in a statement of claim filed last week.

It's one more case of what's become a multibillion-dollar problem in Canada and the U.S., according to authorities.

Wire fraud is a "huge problem" and "so rampant," investigator and former FBI agent Don Vilfer told Go Public, that better laws are needed in Canada and the U.S. to protect bank customers.

"Legislation in both Canada and the U.S. is behind in terms of requiring financial institutions to take certain steps [to prevent] this kind of thing,"Vilfer said.

In September 2018, McLeodwas excited to make an offer on a condo in Rancho Mirage, Calif. just north of Palm Desert.

He had Cidel wire a deposit to a California bank account and waited for instructions on the outstanding balance of $619,000 US ($820,000 Cdn).

A few weeks later, an email supposedly from the realtor handling the sale, said the balance should go to a different bank Chase Bank in Denver, Colo.

Even though his escrow agent had cautioned him, two months earlier, against any sudden changes, McLeod says the warning was forgottenin the push to seal the deal.

The seller, he'd been told, was a billionaire."So it made sense that he banked in several places."

McLeod sent the new instructions to his contact at Cidel.

But the email wasn't from his realtor,Brady Sandahl. It was from a new email address, created byfraudsterswho hadtransposed the last two letters of Sandahl's nameso that, at first glance, it appeared legit.

When that email arrived at Cidel, it appears the bank's mail server flagged it, tacking "SUSPICIOUS MESSAGE" onto the subject line.

Despite that warning,a bank employee emailed the fraudster, asking for the address of the bank account owner adding a senior Cidel employee and McLeod to the email thread.

McLeod says his excitement about the condo got the better of him. He didn't notice the email had been flagged, and, he says,had no prior experience wiring money to another country.

"I don't do this every day. This is something that's totally new to me," he said.

"My wife said, 'You wanted it too much, you ignored the red flags.'"

McLeod and his wife authorizedthe wire transfer. The money went to Denver, where fraudsters quickly transferred most of it to the Bank of China in Hong Kong.

Days later, when McLeod made inquiries about next steps, it became apparent he was the victim of fraud.

"I thought, this can't be happening," he says. "It just can't be happening."

Chase Bankwas able to keep $26,000 US from being transferred, and that money was returned to McLeod.

McLeod hired Vilfer to investigate. Since leaving the FBI over a decade ago, Vilfer has testified in over 100cases, often providing expert testimony on digital forensics in cases involving wire fraud.

"It's very profitable for the fraudsters when they can pull it off," he says."We had one client that lost $14 million and they're [fraudsters] doing this all day long."

In his report to McLeod, Vilfer says the realtor's email account may have been compromised and recommended further analysis of the realtor's devices and accounts.

"With email hijacking scams of this type, in my experience, it is the realtor or mortgage broker who is targeted," he wrote.

Sandahldid not respond to calls for comment from Go Public.

The case is an example of what investigators call "business email compromise" a type of wire fraud that targets businesses and their customers. Typically, the fraudster hacks into a business's email accountand impersonates the sender, instructing the customer to redirect the money.

Go Public recently investigated this type of scam,and spoke to a Toronto-area businessman who lost almost $3,000.

Compromised business emails particularly in the real estate sector led to an estimated loss of $12 billion US over the past five years, according to the FBI.Such scams were reported in 150 countries, and all 50 U.S. states.

Vilfer says McLeod's bank Cidel should have stopped the scam in its tracks.

"You have the flag on the email that it's a suspicious message," says Vilfer. "And with this kind of fraud that's so prevalent that should certainly cause some sort of alarm,to take an extra look at this and seewhy is this being flagged?"

"Good technology ... apparently was ignored," he said.

In the statement of claim against Cidel, McLeod's lawyer, Brett Code, alleges the bank's actions "represent a marked departure from the required standard of care, and constitute gross negligence."

It seeksfull compensation for McLeod's loss.

None of the allegations has been proven in court andCidel has not yetresponded to the statement of claim.

In one of two emails to McLeod,Cidel CEO Craig Rimer wrote:"We are very sorry that you've had to go through this terrible experience and for the financial loss you endured."

However, he wrote, Cidel has no obligation to reimburse McLeod.

In a second, one-line email, Rimer blamedMcLeod for the wire fraud, writing, "The introduction to the email address came from you and you authorized the transaction after much back and forth between them [fraudsters] and you."

Rimer declined to be interviewed but sent Go Public a statement saying, "We acted in accordance with the express written and signed wire instructions that were delivered to us by our client."

He would not outline what policies exist at the bank when it comes to conducting wire transfers, but wrote that Cidel acted in full compliance with all industry standards and that the bank will continue to assist its client in recovering the funds from "an unscrupulous third party."

There is no legislation in Canada or the U.S. that requires a financial institution to confirm the identity of a bank account holder who is receiving a wire transferto prevent fraud and protect customers.

It's considered a best practicefor banks to confirm they are sending a client's money to an appropriate destination, but Vilfer the former FBI agent thinks that needs to become law.

"We're just relying on the banks doing the right thing," he says. "It would be a good idea for both the United States and Canada to stiffen up the statutory requirements; require policies for protecting against this sort of fraud."

The largest insurer ofU.S. banks, ABA Insurance Services, said recently it's "critical" that banks start making phone calls toauthenticate wire transfers, among other procedures.

McLeod knows his lawsuit against Cidel could drag on for years.

"If I don't win this, I'm throwing good money after bad," he says. "And they can outlast me. I'm 75 years old."

He's also moved his remaining assets to another management company.

Submit your story ideas

Go Public is an investigative news segment on CBC-TV, radio and the web.

We tell your stories, shed light on wrong-doing, and hold the powers that be accountable.

If you have a story in the public interest, or if you're an insider with information, contact GoPublic@cbc.ca with your name, contact information and a brief summary. All emails are confidential until you decide to Go Public.

Follow@CBCGoPublicon Twitter.

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Bank wires fraudsters over $800K of retiree's savings, despite red flags - CBC.ca

Good lighting can transform a room. Lighting at home needs to be practical, of course, for reading, studying, cooking and so on, but it can also be beautiful and eye-catching, from a grand, sparkling chandelier to a simple wall light with an attractive shade.

The capital boasts a treasure trove of lighting stores, from those that specialise in classic fittings inspired by antique designs, to the latest in high-tech control systems and everything in between. Whether you need help in selecting the perfect LED bulb, a ceiling light to grab attention or a table lamp to brighten a gloomy corner, here are Londons most shining showrooms.

Zurich Lanterns from Vaughan Designs

Founded by Michael and Lucy Vaughan 35 years ago, this firm is well known for luxury decorative and timeless table lamps, wall lights and pendants inspired by the owners unswerving passion for art and antiques. Lights are made using traditional manufacturing methods, all to Vaughans exclusive designs, and can be seen at the smart showroom in the Design Centre, Chelsea Harbour, alongside furniture, mirrors, rugs, fabrics and cushions.

John Cullen shelf lighting

This is the place to visit for architectural lighting for the house and garden, not to be confused with decorative lighting, such as table lamps and chandeliers. The team is led by creative director Sally Storey, one of the countrys leading lighting experts, so you can be confident of a first-class lighting design service. Also great for technical advice, energy efficient fittings and control systems, plus regular lighting workshops that will show you how to select the best LEDs and use creative techniques to transform your home with lighting.

Hexoganal Treaty Port from Charles Edwards

There are two showrooms, opposite each other on the Kings Road, which specialise in lights inspired by English, French and American designs from the 19th and 20th centuries. Charles Edwards continues to run the well-established business, which has a particularly strong reputation for beautiful lanterns and ceiling lights to suit all scales of room, made at the companys workshop in Wimbledon. There is another store on Rumbold Road which sells alabaster dish lights, as well as antiques and door furniture.

Atom Pendant, Holloways of Ludlow

Another well-established firm, trading since 1985, Holloways of Ludlow offers an extensive selection of contemporary, traditional and period lighting from many of the big-name brands, plus an inspired choice from smaller names and designer makers, even a favourite selection by owner Mark Holloway. There are several London showrooms, with the biggest for lighting at 115 and 117 Shepherds Bush Road, which has been recently extended. Theres also a deep offering online, featuring decorative designs, plus switches, sockets, bulbs, cables and fittings.

Hector Finch, New York design studio

This shop has been a landmark on the Wandsworth Bridge Road since 1995 and is still run by Hector and Emma Finch. It is an excellent source of high quality outdoor lanterns, bathroom lights, library and wall lights (some of which hang in the American ambassadors residence in London), plus smart pendants to suspend over kitchen islands and counters. Lights are assembled at its workshop in Shropshire, using precision-engineered metalwork from the UK and components from across Europe.

Stand alone lamp by Christopher Wray

Seen from its entrance on the Kings Road, this showroom looks modestly sized but with over 1,000 lights on show, it is one of the largest of its kind in London, extending from the front door to a warehouse-sized premises at the rear. It offers a particularly impressive selection of chandeliers and statement lighting, and sells brands such as Slamp and Foscarini. Lighting design and re-wiring services are also on offer.

Buster + Punch light installation

On a mission to end ordinary home fittings, Buster + Punch has succeeded in transforming the humble light bulb and socket into an object of desire. Ideal for lovers of industrial style, its Heavy Metal pendant has already become a much-copied classic. The Shoreditch store is also worth a visit for its individual take on traditional hardware, from cable hooks to dimmer switches.

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Where to buy lights in London - Spectator.co.uk

Electrical Safety Awareness Week, organised by Electrical Safety First and run in conjunction with the Home Office, aims to promote electrical fire safety in the home.

According to Electrical Safety First, more than half of all accidental fires in the home are caused by electricity.

The RLA has a wide range of resources on its website available for landlords, when it comes to electrical safety obligations.

Electrical safety checks-the law

It goes without saying that at the start and for the duration of a tenancy, landlords should make sure their rental property is safe to live in.

During the tenancy, landlords should be sure to keep up with inspections of the property. When it comes to electrical safety, landlords must make sure wiring and fuse boxes are not dangerous for tenants.

Under the Fitness for Human Habitation Act, introduced recently in England, landlords should also be aware that if their rental property is considered to be unfit for human habitation, their tenants can sue them for breach of contract.

HMO properties

While landlords should follow the above best practice advice, there is currently no legal requirement in place for regular electrical safety inspections to be carried out in rental properties that are not HMOs. However, this is likely to change soon, you can read why below.

If a property is a HMO, then itisalegalrequirementtohaveanelectricalsafetyinspectioncarriedout atintervalsofnomorethanfiveyears. Check out the definition of a HMO here.

In addition to this, if your rental property is in a selective licensing area then some of the conditions may include specific electrical safety checks, so you should double check.

Could the law around electrical safety checks be about to change?

In short-yes. At the start of this year, there was some talk of changes to landlords obligations around electrical safety, specifically affecting landlords who rent out non-HMO properties.

In January, the Government announced that it intends to press ahead with plansfirst announced last yearto introduce regulations requiring landlords to undertake five yearly safety checks of electrical installations in their properties.

On 25th October, the provisions of the Act relating to electrical safety checks came into force for the purpose of making regulations. However, as RLA policy director David Smith explains in this blog, this doesnt mean electrical safety checks have come into force, but that the Secretary of State has the power to make regulations about how electrical checks will occur. Writing last month David Smith said it is likely such regulations are likely to come into force next year.

Electrical Safety Inspections guidanceforlandlords

This electrical safety awareness week, it is a good idea for landlords to refresh their knowledge of electrical safety, and the RLA has many resources for landlords and letting agents to assist with this.

Our online inspections guide outline landlords responsibilities when it comes toelectrical safety inspections. The guidance covers:

PAT testing

Again, cu

Not legal req but good practice for ll to do this hse pat testing -free downloadable booklet how often need to do this.

Train with us!

The RLA also runs a Basic Electrical Awareness classroom course for landlords and letting agents. There are dates coming up for this course in Manchester (6th December), London (8th April 2020) and Sale (1st July 2020).

This course aims to give landlords a basic understanding of electrical safety principles. The course is designed to make Landlords and Managing Agents more aware of EICR requirements and how to review a completed EICR. It will also teach you how to maintain the electrical installation and electrical equipment in a safe and compliant manner.

The day is made up of awareness of three elements:

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Electrical Safety Week 2019-what landlords need to know - Residential Landlords Association

Whether youre looking for electrical wires, wire cables, grounding wires, building wires, electrical cables, URD wires or low voltage wires, we have lots of options to cover all of your wiring needs. When considering your wiring choices, its important to understand the differences between electrical wires and electrical cables. Be sure to choose the right electrical wires and electrical cables so you can safely power all of your devices and networks.

Electrical Wires Versus Electrical CablesAlthough the terms wire and cable are often used interchangeably, electrical wire is one electrical conductor and electrical cable, like your AC power cord, is a group of wires (or conductors), encased in sheathing. Our electrical cables and wire cables allow you to do everything from mounting that brand new flat screen TV on the wall, to purchasing coaxial cables to complete your next wiring project.

Wiring TypesThe information printed on the sides of wire indicates its THHN/THWN, material, max voltage rating and gauge. THHN wire is one of the most common types of individual wires used in residential wiring applications. We also carry NM-B wire, Cat5e wire, Cat 6 wire, UF-B wire, bare copper wiring and Romex wires. Most wiring will be marked CU for copper, the most common conductor of residential electricity. Because electricity travels on the outside of copper wire, the wiring is insulated to protect against fire and shock. Older wiring could be aluminum or copper-clad aluminum.

Let the Pros Handle Your Wiring ProjectWhile you can find everything you need at The Home Depot to complete your wiring projects safely, wiring projects can be dangerous. Our Pro Referral marketplace connects you to local independent pros who can tackle your wiring project safely and professionally so you dont have to. Here at The Home Depot, youll find everything you need to complete a safe, timely and cost efficient electrical wiring project.

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Wire - Electrical - The Home Depot

Aslan Alphan / Getty Images

It helps to understand a few basic terms used to describe wiring. An electrical wire is a type of conductor, a material that conducts electricity. In the case of household wiring, the conductor itself is usually copper or aluminum (or copper-sheathed aluminum), and is either a solid metal conductor or stranded wire. Most wires in a home are insulated, meaning they are wrapped in a nonconductive plastic coating. One notable exception is ground wires, which are typically solid copper and are either insulated with green sheathing or are uninsulated (bare).

The most common type of wiring in modern homes is in the form of nonmetallic (NM) cable, which consists of two or more individual wires wrapped inside a protective plastic sheathing. NM cable usually contains one or more hot (current-carrying) wires, a neutral wire, and a ground wire.

As an alternative to NM cable, individual wires can be installed inside of a rigid or flexible metal or plastic tubing called conduit. Conduit is typically used where wiring will be exposed and not hidden inside walls, floors, or ceilings.

These larger wires in your home are carrying circuit voltage, and they can be very dangerous to touch. There are also a number of wires in your home that carry much lesser amounts of "low-voltage" current. These are less dangerous, and with some, the voltage carried is so low that there is virtually no chance of shock. However, until you know exactly what kind of wires you are dealing with, it's best to treat them all as dangerous.

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Common Types of Electrical Wire Used in the Home

The beauty of todays smart home is that its mostly wire-free. Wireless protocols such as Zigbee, Z-Wave, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth LE have done away with the need to install complex and expensive whole-home electrical systems just to control your smart lights remotely.

In the modern smart home, all you need is a smartphone and a Wi-Fi router to unlock the power of connected devices. Most of the time.

Read this: Smart home tours a Victorian villa with connected fireplaces

There are still some key devices you are going to have to hardwire though. This is not so they can work with wireless smart home systems, but because they need to communicate with your dumb appliances, such as heating and air conditioning systems, irrigation pumps and the electrical wires running through your ceilings and walls.

If you really dont feel comfortable messing with wiring there are battery-powered versions available for some of these devices, but hooking them into your homes wiring is the best way to go if you want to get the most out of the cool, connected capabilities they offer.

Thankfully, much of the wiring is straightforward. As long as you know where your breaker box is and are handy with a drill, you probably wont need to spend big bucks on an electrician.

When selecting connected gadgets for your home, bear in mind these are the ones you are going to need to wire up:

Smart light switches

Smart wall outlets

Smart thermostats

Smart sprinkler controllers

Smart smoke alarms

Smart video doorbells

Most of todays connected devices are targeted at the consumer, meaning you can largely Do It Yourself. Some companies, including Nest and Amazon, have pro installers that will come and install their products for you, for a fee.

If you are at all uncomfortable with wiring you should use them or hire an electrician messing with electricity can be dangerous. But if you can turn off the power at the breaker, youll find that dealing with the accessible wiring in your home is simple and straightforward.

Ring and Nest supply screwdrivers to help you install their products.

The main tools youll use when wiring smart home gadget include:

a screwdriver

a drill

a level

wire strippers

needle nose pliers

wire nuts

screws

wall anchors

Many devices will come with everything you need to install them right in the box (with the exception of a drill, which is not always needed). Ring and Nest, for example, both include excellent little double-headed screwdrivers with their higher-end products.

Heres a rundown of smart home devices you will need to wire into your home, listed in order of difficulty. Weve provided simple step-by-step guidance to give you an idea of how the process will go, but in every instance, you should refer to the included installation guide (or more likely video) that comes with your product.

Smart light switches and outlets replace your existing light switches and outlets, allowing you to control what theyre connected to with an app on your smartphone, or through a smart speaker. When installed, a smart switch will control all the lighting on that circuit, and a smart outlet controls whatever is plugged into it (such as a lamp, table fan or other standalone electrical device).

Weve put these two products together because the wiring for both is almost identical. It is also one of the most involved wiring projects and may require the use of a voltage tester to identify which is a hot wire and which is a load wire.

Smart switches and wall outlets are the most complicated devices to install yourself.

1. Turn off power to your switch/outlet at the breaker (if breakers arent labeled you can turn off the master power).

2. Unscrew the wall plate and switch/outlet from the wall.

3. Disconnect existing wires from the switch/outlet by turning the wire nuts (see below) counterclockwise.

4. Remove your existing switch/outlet and place it in a box or Ziploc bag along with all screws (in case you need to put it back it later).

5. Identify the wires in your system many smart switches/outlets require a neutral wire, but not all homes will have them (if you dont have a neutral wire consult an electrician).

6. Once identified, connect the corresponding wires in your wall to the wires on the smart switch using wire nuts. These will be Line and Load wires, usually black or red, and a neutral wire (often white, sometime two fastened together and tucked away). If your Line and Load wires are the same colour, you will need to use a voltage tester to confirm which is which.

7. Push the connected wires back into the wall box as far as they will go.

8. Screw the switch/outlet into the wall box and attach any provided wall plates.

9. Turn the power back on.

Wire nuts are used to connect two or more wires together. Hold the wires you are connecting so the ends are aligned, then place a wire nut on top and twist clockwise until secure. The wires should not come out when you pull. You can also use pliers to twist the wires together before attaching the wire nut, or to straighten them out prior to attaching the nut.

Wiring a smart thermostat, like the Ecobee 4, requires a good knowledge of your HVAC system.

While the actual wiring process for a smart thermostat is very simple, getting it right is more complicated than any other DIY smart home project. This is because if its done incorrectly it could damage your HVAC system, which can be costly. Because of this, if you are not sure about your systems requirements at any point during the installation process consult a professional.

1. Turn the power to your thermostat off at the breaker.

2. Remove the faceplate from your old thermostat and photograph the wiring for reference.

3. Label your thermostat wires (most smart thermostats come with adhesive labels for doing this in the package).

4. Remove your old thermostat.

5. Using the new thermostat as a guide, mark where the screws will go, and if needed drill holes and place anchors.

6. Pull your thermostat wires through the new thermostat and attach the wires (according to the manual that comes with your new thermostat) before you attach it to the wall.

7. Screw the thermostat baseplate onto the wall.

8. Double check your wiring, put the thermostats faceplate on, and turn on the power.

Wiring up the Spruce smart irrigation controller is very straightforward.

A smart sprinkler controller replaces your standard irrigation clock. It will control your sprinkler system in the same way, by turning on the valves at scheduled times, but it can also use weather data from the internet to dynamically change your schedule and avoid watering before, during or after rain events.

The wiring process is similar to that of a thermostat, although because most sprinkler controllers are plugged in with an AC adaptor you wont need to turn off power at the breaker.

1. Photograph your existing wiring and take note of which wires correspond to which zones.

2. Unplug the existing controller and remove the wiring from it.

3. Put the wiring through the controller and mount it on the wall, drilling holes into the wall and placing drywall anchors if needed.

4. Snap the wires into the corresponding zones, put the C wire in the correct port and if you have a Master or Pump Valve consult the installation guide to determine where that wire needs to go (it differs on each model).

5. Plug in the AC adaptor (some models do not have AC power adaptors, in these cases you will need to run the power wires into the electrical box that controls your irrigation system and will need to turn off power at your breaker before you do).

6. Turn the power back on.

The Onelink Safe & Sound needs to be hardwired to power its Bluetooth speaker.

Smart versions of smoke alarms can notify you via your smartphone if they are activated. Smoke alarms come in hardwired versions or battery-powered only. Which version you need will depend on how your home is set up. If you have wiring to support smoke alarms, installing a smart one is no different from installing a regular alarm.

1. Turn power to your smoke alarms off at the breaker.

2. Remove your existing smoke alarm and mounting bracket (you cant reuse mounting brackets as they are manufacturer specific).

3. Screw the supplied mounting bracket to the electrical box.

4. Unscrew the existing wire nuts from the wiring in the ceiling or wall and remove the old connection to your smoke alarm.

5. Attach the wire connectors for the new smoke alarm.

6. Plug the connector coming from the wire into the back of your smart smoke alarm and twist into position on the mounting bracket.

7. Turn the power back on.

Wiring a video doorbell is the easiest smart home wiring job youll do.

Video doorbells place a camera at your front door, allowing you to see anyone there even if they dont press the doorbell. But they do work as doorbells too, and if you have an electrical door chime youll need to connect it to your homes wiring. If you would rather not do this, or dont have an electrical doorbell, there are battery powered video doorbells available (including Ring Video Doorbell 2). You will need to periodically charge the battery however.

1. Turn off the power to your doorbell at the breaker.

2. Remove your old doorbell.

3. If you are placing your doorbell on stucco, brick or concrete you will need a special drill bit to drill holes in the correct positions for placing your new doorbell.

4. Connect the wires coming out of your wall to the screws on the back of your new doorbell (you may need extension wires if your wires are too short, these will need to be attached with wire nuts).

5. Screw the doorbell onto the wall.

6. Turn the power back on.

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Smart home wiring 101: A beginner's guide - the-ambient.com

So you have laid out your wiring plan, have all your supplies, and are ready to wire your house.This guide tells you what you need to know to do the actual wiring. This guide will start withsome basic rules, then has some pictures on properly running the wires, and also somepictures that will help you locate where ductwork will be run so that you can avoid it.Finally, there is the "Don't do this" section of common mistakes to avoid.

Start by running the longest wires first. The reason for this is if you have 30' left overin your spool, you might still be able to use it somewhere. If you run the shortest runs first, thenyou will have more waste.

Start each wire upstairs and pull it through to the basement. This way, you do not needto use a ladder to push the wire up between floors.

Do not put two electrical boxes on opposite sides of the same stud. Doing this requires thedrywaller to cut two holes only 1 1/2 inches apart. This is difficult and usuallyresults in a broken piece of drywall that will just be patched later. You should alsonot put an electrical box right in the corner of a room for the same reason.

You will mount your electrical boxes at the same height that the builder's electrician's boxes.This will be around 12-16" from the floor to the bottom of the box. Sometimes, a builder will usetheir hammer height as a standard for mounting boxes. I used a 12" T-Square to measure the height of mine.

You may want to mount all of the electrical boxes first just so you know where you will be running the wires.You can mount the boxes and write on the stud what wires are needed using a sharpie. Then you can get tothe business of running wires without having to go back and keep looking at your wiring plan.

Run all of the wires next. Save the stapling of the wires and placing the wires in the electrical box for the end.For the first one or two wire runs you may want to ignore this rule and install the boxes and staple the wiresdown before you cut the wire just to make sure you understand how much slack you will need.You should also leave at least one foot of extra wire at each end just in case you need to move things around later.

Before drilling any holes, make sure to look at what is on the other side of the wall/floor. Youdon't want to drill through any electrical wires, ductwork, or water pipes...

Do not run wires parallel to any power lines. It is OK to cross a power wire at a 90 degree angle.Power is usually run around the edges of the basement, so run your wires internally along a floor joist.If you need to run your wires perpendicular to a floor joist, try to do it along a duct or I beam.That way if you finish your basement later, these wires wont interfere with a drywall ceiling.

Run the wires vertically from floor ceiling and then along the floor joists. Do not run a wire horizontallyin the middle of a wall. Doing so increases the chance that someone will put a nail through it.Try to keep the wire as close to the stud as possible. This is especially true for an exterior wallwhere insulation will be installed.

After running the wires, make sure to label each end (using stickers or writing on the wirewith a felt tip marker) and make a note of the label for the wire and its location.I use a letter to represent each electrical box, and then a number for each wire in the box.For example: I will label the electrical box behind the entertainment center in the family roomas "A". Each wire in the box gets a number "1", "2", "3"... At the other end at the wiring panelI label the wires "A1", "A2", "A3"...

After the wires are run, you need to staple them down. Stapling keeps the wires in place so that theydon't come out of the electrical boxes. It also holds them up and out of the way of the drywallersand so that they don't hang down in the ceiling. You should always staple the wire right beforeit enters an electrical box, and also right after it comes through the hole in the floor.When running a wire along a stud, try to keep the wire centered in the stud. That reduces the chancethat a nail will go through the wire from either end. For many wires, you can nail the stapleinto the joist/stud and the use a wire tie to attach the wires to that staple. This method alsoensures that the staples cannot damage the wire.

If the end of the wire does not terminate in an electrical box, then you will need to measure the locationof the wire. Measure from the closest corner of the room. Do not measure from a window. Also recordif the wire is on the left or right side of the stud. For example, if the wire is attached to theleft side of a stud, and you record that the wire is 90" away from the wall, when looking for that wirelater your stud finder will tell you that there is a stud at 90". You won't know which sideof the stud to cut the drywall on. For complicated runs, you may even want to use a digital camerato record the location of wires. Also remember to add or subtract 3/4" from the measurementto account for the thickness of the drywall where you will start your measurement.

After running the wires through the electrical box, be sure to shove all of the wires in the box.Drywallers want to work fast, and any wires sticking out of the box may just get drywalled over.They could also get cut as the hole is cut for the electrical box. The builders will probably nottake the time to place the wires in the box themselves. Also, if the wires stick out of the box orare very close to the front of the box then they will get covered in paint and may cover up yourlabeling or the labels could get torn off.

Some people run the wires straight through the box. The wire coming through the bottom of the box isstapled tight to the stud. The wire then passes through the top of the box and is loosely held to thestud with another staple. When finishing the installation, you can pull the end of the wire back into the box.The loose staple only holds it in place for the drywallers. I don't recommend this method becausethe builder should be insulating each electrical box (as long as it is on an exterior wall) with expandingfoam so that you can't get cold air coming through the box. If the builder sprays Great Stuff into theback of each electrical box, then you wont be able to get the end of that wire back into the box.I also don't like using backless electrical boxes for the same reason.

Wait to install the wall plates and in-wall speakers until the drywall has been installed and painted.You can choose to terminate each wire properly as the builder is still working on the home or you can wait untilyou move in. If you finish the installation up front, then there is a chance that the town'sappraiser will see it and you could affect your home's appraised value and tax bill.For my home, I used blank wall plates during the building phase and then finished the work later.Local codes will probably require that you cover all exposed electrical boxes even if there isn'tany power in the box so leaving electrical boxes open is not an option.

When running wires before the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, & Air Condition) installers have donetheir work, you need to run your wires without interfering with what they need to do. The HVAC installerswill install ducts that deliver the hot or cold air to the home, and returns that feed the air back into thefurnace. Vents are usually installed on the floor or low on the wall under a window. The ductwork for asecond floor vent is run vertically on an interior wall, and then across the floor joists for the second floor.Returns are usually near the ceiling on an interior wall. Since air loss isn't an issue on a return, theinstallers don't use ductwork for returns. They will use walls, studs, floor joists... as their duct.Ducts for vents should be avoided inside walls. Returns in the basement should be avoided between thefloor joists. There are some specific examples with drawings and pictures below.

When running wires from the basement to outlets on the first or second floor, be sure to avoid the flue and any HVAC ducts.When possible, avoid running wires in the ceiling against the joists (red wire above). Instead, try to get right under the outlet from the basementand then run it straight up (green wire above). The same goes for in-ceiling speakers. Avoid drilling through the joists if you can.You may also want to review our guide on wiring existing homes for more examples.

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Running the Wires in a New Home - Structured Home Wiring

This parts guide is broken up into three sections. The first is what you will need to run wiring during construction.The second section covers what you need to complete your work. The final section is for running wires in an existing home.You do not necessarily need everything in this list, and you may find some things listed here (like a pen) are really obvious.Still I listed them anyway because not having a pen while at your home under construction which is 20 miles from your current home is no fun.

There are many reasons you will need a step stool or ladder, and the step stool is easier to carry around. You will need a stool for tacking up wires to run along beams in the basement, fishing wires through the ceiling, mounting motion detector wires up high... The step stool is more useful than a ladder because it is easier to carry around.

Sometimes a step stool will not cut it. Remember that you may be running wires above the ceiling. In-ceiling speakers for the first floor will run along the second floor beams. If you have 9' ceilings, the first floor to the second floor is actually 10 feet (with 1' beams supporting the second floor).

You will need a drill to make holes through studs and floors to run your wires. With a corded drill you don't have to worry about batteries, but you can't be sure that your house will even have power when you are wiring it. The wall outlets won't be completed until the drywall is done, so at best you may have an outlet to use in the basement.

Of course you need bits to go with the drill. A 1/2" bit will only allow a couple wires through and will not be enough for all situations. A 1" bit will work for almost (but not quite) everything. Spade (flat) wood drill bits (top in the picture) are cheaper when a larger bit is needed but they can cause problems. Spade bits will get stuck easier and they make it harder to drill straight line which can be a problem if you are drilling through multiple studs. If you need to drill two 1" holes next to each other to run a thick wire (like a DVI cable) a spade bit will not work because it will always jam.

You will need power if you are going to recharge the batteries on your drill. You may also need power for lighting. If you do have a working outlet in the basement, the builder's contractors may already be using it. Bring an extension cord with multiple outlets or a power strip so both you and the contractors will have power. You will also need very long extension cords if the only power source is the electrical box in the basement and you need lighting on the second floor.

A cable reel makes it easier to pull on the wires without them get the tangled. A cable reel can be as simple as an elevated bar and can hold multiple spools of cable. I've even seen people hammer a screwdriver into a stud and use that for a cable reel. It is important to note that the spool of wire must rotate as you pull the wire. If you just pull the wire off the top of the spool it will have a twist to it and make it very hard to run.

Wire staples serve 2 purposes. First, they prevent wires from accidentally being pulled out of an electrical box. Second, they keep your wires neat and tight up near the ceiling in the basement.

You will need a hammer for attaching electrical boxes to studs. You may also use a hammer this to nail in the wire staples, assuming you don't own a staple gun. A claw hammer can also be used to remove staples. It can also to be used with the chisel.

Zip ties can also used to keep your wires neat. You should get the 12" nylon variety. If you are running too many wires for a wire staple, you can use a wire staple to attach the zip tie to a beam and then run the wires through the zip tie.

You will need a good pair of wire cutters to cut your wires, and you can also use them to cleanup the zip ties.

You may also want to consider a low voltage box instead of an electrical box for non-power wires. Check with local codes to see if it is acceptable. These boxes are sometimes easier to work with since they don't have a back. I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and you might get cold outside air coming through them.

Different towns might have specific requirements, but usually electrical boxes are mounted 12-16" above the floor. Note: There are different rules for basements where flooding can be an issue. In my home the boxes were exactly 12" from the floor, and using a 12" Square is a lot easier than a tape measure to measure box height, so bring one if you have it. Otherwise, you could use a tape measure and mark all of the electrical box locations up front. You want to make sure your electrical boxes are the same height as the builder's electrician's boxes or the boxes will look odd next to each other. Sometimes, the electricians will just use the height of their hammer to make sure each box is the same height.

Expanding foam (like Great Stuff) is used to fill in holes in electrical boxes to insulate the home and prevent drafts. Make sure you are absolutely sure that you are done wiring that box before you use the foam. Make sure the type of foam you get can be used for wiring in electrical boxes. The foam can expand to 10 times its original size, so before using the foam in an electrical box you should test it to familiarize yourself with it. You may want to save this step until after you have finished the wiring.

If you end up working late at night you will wish your brought a flashlight. A fluorescent flashlight or good lantern will work better than a spot flash light.

If you know you have power in the basement, you may want to set up a halogen light down there. It gets dark in the basement quick without lights and that is where you will be doing most of your work.

Don't forget to bring a pen and a marker/Sharpie. Use the Sharpie for marking studs and doing your labels. The pen is for taking notes.

Use a notebook or a clipboard so it is easier to take notes. I've tried bringing just paper to write on, but homes under construction end up being really humid and the paper gets trashed. A notebook is better. You will want to record information about each photo and the location of all wires not using electrical boxes.

For any wire that is not in an electrical box (alarm, in-wall speaker, garage door wires...) you will have to go digging through drywall to find it. Have a tape measure to record where the wires are relative to the closest corner. Record the location of the wire, the height from the floor and also indicate what side of the stud the wire is on.

If you have a Digital Camera, use it to take pictures of everything. Since all rooms look the same without walls, you should also record what room and what direction each picture is. You never know when this information will be useful (and not just for wiring purposes).

You might need a flathead screwdriver to remove wire staples if you can't use the claw of your hammer. You will also need a screwdriver to cover the electrical boxes with electric plates once the drywall is installed.

Your town's building codes will probably require electrical plates cover all electrical boxes to pass the electrical inspection before you close, even if there are no wires running electricity in those boxes. I used cheap blank wall plates and then replaced them over time after closing. You could also use the proper wall plates and terminate everything before closing, but then the town may see it and it could affect your final assessment. Make sure your wall plates include screws or you will have to buy them separate.

Whenever using your hammer expanding foam you should wear goggles.

If you are working around insulation, or if the builders are installing the insulation while you are in the home, you should wear a mask.

The warning on the label says you should wear gloves when working with expanding foam.

If your wires don't terminate in an electrical box (speaker wires), then you probably just stapled the end of the wire between two studs. Use a stud finder to make sure you know where the studs are before knocking holes in the wall or ceiling. You don't want to cut a template for a speaker and find that part of your hole is over a stud.

For stripping speaker wire or network cable. You could also use a razor blade for some applications.

There are special crimpers for coaxial cable. You should look for one that supports both RG59 and RG6 connectors. It should also be a ratcheting tool, meaning that the tool will not reopen until you have squeezed it tight enough.

You will also need a special crimper(s) for Cat-5e Data/Internet connectors (called RJ45) and Cat3 Phone connectors (called RJ11). Note: Punch blocks and some wall plates don't require you to crimp a connector on the end of the cable so this tool may not be necessary. You may find one tool that can do both types of cables.

For mounting outlets and wall plates and also for wiring an alarm system.

An alternative to a wiring panel is to mount everything to a board. You can now get 2'x4' boards which are just the right size. You can also use 2"x4"'s so that the board is not mounted directly to the concrete wall. That way, every time you screw through the board you are not hitting concrete.

For a basement you will need concrete screws or sinkers and a masonry drill bit. For a drywall installation you will need drywall mounts or drill directly into a stud (preferred).

A coil of rigid steel used to fish wire through walls after the drywall has been installed. First run the fish tape through the wall, attach (tape) your wire to the end, then pull the fish back through the wall.

These flexible drill bits are usually 3' to 6' long and allow you to drill through multiple studs, joists, or through the top/bottom wall plates and you only need to cut a single small hole in the drywall. Just make sure you look before you drill.

You will need electrical tape to attach your wires to the fish tape.

For cutting holes in drywall for new outlets or speakers.

You may need to use a hammer and chisel to notch holes in studs or joists if you need to run a wire across the wall or ceiling.

Old work electrical boxes don't nail directly to the stud. Instead they have flaps that expand out and pinch the drywall after you insert the box through the hole.

Low voltage boxes don't have a back and may be easier to deal with when there are a lot of wires. Don't use these boxes for power wire. Also, I wouldn't use them on exterior walls because they cannot be sealed and could let cold air into the home.

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DIY Home Wiring - Parts / Tools Guide

Your homes wiring consists of a few different types of wiring, including non-metallic cable (commonly called Romex), Bx cable, and wiring concealed in conduit. NM cable is the most common type of circuit wiring. It is suitable for use in dry, protected areas (inside stud walls, on the sides of joists, etc.) that are not subject to mechanical damage or excessive heat.

Bx cable, also known as armored cable, consists of wires running inside a flexible aluminum or steel sheath that is somewhat resistant to damage. It is commonly used where wiring for appliances, such as dishwashers and garbage disposers, is exposed.

Conduit is a rigid metal or plastic tubing that protects individual insulated wires. It is used in garages, sheds, and outdoor applications where the wiring must be protected from exposure.

Wires running inside NM cable, Bx cable, or conduit are sized according to each circuit's amperage. Wire size is given in its gauge number. The lower the gauge, the larger the wire, and the more current it can handle. For example, wiring for 20-amp circuits is 12-gauge, which is heavier than the 14-gauge wiring used for 15-amp circuits.

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Home Electrical Basics 101 - The Spruce