ADAMS COUNTY September is an ideal time to reseed thinning patches in your lawn or to establish a new lawn. At this time of year, the warm soil and the longer, cooler nights help prevent the seedlings from drying out as quickly and allow rapid root growth.

For our area, a mixture of perennial ryegrass/fescue/Kentucky bluegrass is recommended. Perennial ryegrass is very quick to germinate and is capable of going from scattered seed to mow-able lawn in about 21 days. It provides shade and protection to the other grass species like Kentucky bluegrass, which can take up to three weeks to get started. Fescue is heat and drought tolerant. Turf-type tall fescues have a wider leaf blade than fine fescues and are often used in seed blends where a shade loving, slow-growing or drought-resistant turf is desired. Fescues require much less water and nutrients to thrive than traditional lawn grasses like Kentucky bluegrass. Kentucky bluegrass is a cool-season grass that grows best during the fall, winter, and spring months when temperatures are cool. During the summer months if stressed for water, Kentucky bluegrass can go dormant.

Fescues and perennial ryegrass are drought tolerant and can handle heat traffic (such as dogs and kids) well. The blend of grasses provides a good mix to obtain a healthy green turf. It is recommended to use certified seed.

Steps for Renovating a Lawn. Improve thin areas by:

o Aerating, raking out dead grass.

o Overseeding, applying lawn patch products.

o Top-dressing the area with about compost.

o Keep seeded area moist.

Steps for Planting a New Lawn (Seeding):

o Get a soil test to know if any amendments are needed.

o Apply any amendments and weed-free compost over the area to be seeded.

o Rototill the site to a depth of 4-6 inches and remove rocks, clods, sticks, and other debris. Note: do not rototill wet soil.

o Rent a lawn rake/roller. Divide the seed in two parts. Apply one half (at 2 - 3 lb seed/1000 sq. ft) in one direction. Apply the second half at a right angle to the first part.

o Rake and then roll the seeded area.

o Cover lightly with a layer of mulch.

o Keep area moist until seedlings have been established (2-3 weeks).

Steps for Planting a New Lawn (Sod):

o Sod usually comes in 3-foot sections, 18 inches wide, with less than -inch of soil attached.

o Choose high quality sod that is actively growing.

o Prepare the soil as in the steps above for planting a new lawn, rototilling the area and removing any rocks, debris, etc.

o Start laying the sod along a straight edge such as next to a driveway or sidewalk.

o Unroll sod pieces tightly against each other but do not overlap.

o Using a sharp knife, cut sod pieces to fit curves or small areas.

o After the sod has been installed, roll it to ensure good contact with the soil.

o Irrigate with about one inch of water to achieve complete wetting of the sod and at least one inch of soil.

o After watering, lift up edges of sod at several locations to be sure water has penetrated the sod and soil below.

o Continue watering one or two times a day to prevent sod from wilting and keep the soil moist. As sod becomes established, gradually reduce the frequency of watering.

o Do not saturate the sod and soil to the point of standing water. New roots could begin to rot under these conditions. After sod has been mown two or three times, water deeply and infrequently depending on the weather conditions.

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Now is the time to renovate - Ritzville Adams County Journal

The year 2020 is definitely one for the history books. COVID-19, murder hornets, Hurricane Laura and now Hurricane Sally hitting our Gulf neighbors to the east.This week is no exception for our losses. LSU AgCenter offices across the state are getting call after call as lawn after lawn is experiencing devastating loss of turfgrass.Sod webworms are the main culprit this year, and fittingly, our weed and turfgrass extension specialist Ron Strahan said, The numbers are biblical. We have observed nearly every house on a single street with damage in the lawn. Cue the locusts.You might first take notice of the small moths that are light brown to dark brown with striping on the wings. You will see them flying around as you walk through your lawn or around outdoor lights at night. This is the adult of the sod webworm. The moths lay eggs on grass blades.Larvae hatch a week or so later, maturing into adult moths in three to five weeks. There can be two or more generations each year. Larvae are amber in color but become greener as they feed on the blades of grass at nighttime. They are the cause of the damage we see in the lawn.If you missed the moths but are seeing yellowing and browning patches of dead lawn, you need to inspect further to determine if it is sod webworms. One way to tell is to investigate individual grass blades. They will have a chewed appearance, with pieces of blades missing or chunks bitten out. The caterpillars are making a feast of your lawn.Another clue to look for while you are down there at ground level is the worm castings. Thats a fancy term for caterpillar poop. The castings are digested grass, and they appear as light beige pellets at the base of the plants just above the soil level.Yet another sign are the webs that are visible in the early morning when the dew is still on the ground. The water droplets from the dew will be trapped in the webbing, and this is where sod webworms get their name.If you dig thoroughly enough at the soil-grass interface, you can usually find a tiny caterpillar about - to 1-inch long and the diameter of Q-tip and the castings of the insect. Sod webworms seem to especially love St. Augustine grass.Heavy infestations can cause a feeding frenzy of birds to the lawn. If youve noticed more birds pecking around in your turfgrass, its usually an indicator that some good food nutritious sod webworm caterpillars is out there.Heavy infestations can lead to stress, causing your lawn to be more susceptible to fungal diseases such as gray leaf spot and large patch in addition to other insects such as chinch bugs and armyworms. A combination of these problems can lead to the death of turfgrass.To help control sod webworms, use an insecticide with the active ingredient bifenthrin. AgCenter entomologist Sebe Brown recommends liquid rather than granular applications for better control. You will need to retreat the lawn again in seven days to kill any newly hatched eggs. Spray will not control the moths. It is most effective on the main culprit doing the damage the caterpillar.Treat the infested areas and extend 3 to 4 feet past where you see browning. Moths will continue to lay eggs, so continue to monitor the lawn.Eggs hatch every seven days. The hopefully cooler weather of fall will slow down the generation interval but not kill the worms already in the lawn. Last years mild and short winter is likely the cause of the large populations weve seen this summer.If you are like me, you dont like to use chemicals because insecticides dont discriminate for the most part and will kill other beneficial bugs. You can let Mother Nature help you out with the birds who feast on the caterpillars instead.Additionally, consider transitioning large areas of lawn to garden beds that you fill with native plants or other ornamental perennials, shrubs and trees. Lawns, mainly turfgrass, account for 30% of water use in a typical U.S. home, so go easy on the turf in home landscapes. With water scarcity on the horizon, by reducing the size of your lawn you can reduce water consumption, water bills and the amount of time you spending mowing your grass; save fuel; lessen your carbon footprint; and expand natural ecosystems by adding diversity to your landscape.The good news, if there is any, is that the grass will recover from live stolons and roots. Water your lawn during extended periods of drought that are especially common in October here in Louisiana to help the grass recover before going into winter dormancy.Its also time to stop fertilizing the lawn and wait until spring to apply any new applications.

Excerpt from:
Get It Growing: Sod woes | St. Mary Now - daily-review.com

When you were on your tractor last summer mowing the roadside you may have noticed a bobwhite quail run across the road, you might have been excited to see it too. What you probably didnt notice was the covey of quail chicks that you mowed right over the top of. Thats the unfortunate thing about quail, their survival strategy is to lay low and only flush when necessary. For quail, the number one cause of population declines is habitat loss; with an average lifespan of only 8 months, its crucial to provide quail with the habitat they need to make it through the season to reproduce next year. One of the best ways we can do that is by leaving our roadsides, waterways and idle areas alone.

In intensively farmed areas like where we live, some of the last habitat we have is in the roadside ditches. When you mow a roadside, not only are you potentially killing quail outright, but youre knocking out a valuable food source wildflowers. These plants attract insect pollinators which make up over 90% of the quail chicks diet for the first several weeks of their life. Later in the year, these wildflowers will go to seed and provide a crucial food source for the quail in the winter.

Mowing also knocks down crucial habitat and cover for quail. In order to make it through the winter with the snow, ice, rain and wind, quail require adequate cover from the elements. Ideally, this cover comes in two forms. Native bunch grasses such as big bluestem, little bluestem, and Indiangrass. Non-native grasses such as brome and fescue are detrimental to wildlife habitat because these are sod forming grasses and are very difficult for quail (especially chicks) to move through. Brome and fescue also choke out and out compete beneficial wildflowers which decreases plant diversity. The other type of cover quail need is brush such as dogwood or American Plum. Brush not only provides critical cover for quail during the winter, but it serves as hiding grounds from aerial predators like hawks and owls. On top of that, shrubs like American Plum, Elderberry, and even Sumac (Sumac tea is a wonderful drink to try) provide valuable fruit for people too.

You may be noticing a common theme between what I wrote this week with quail and previously with monarch butterflies. LEAVE THE ROADSIDES ALONE! Its one of the simplest things we can do to boost quail and songbird numbers and help our pollinators out too. It saves us time and money and its an easy step in conserving habitat. Thats not to say that spraying and mowing roadsides and idle areas never has its place. There are instances where we need to use those management practices for the greater good. For instance, invasive species such as Johnsongrass and Sericea Lespedeza pose a much greater threat to habitat than mowing or spraying. Even brome and fescue, which I mentioned as being wildlife unfriendly could be sprayed and planted to native plants to improve habitat for wildlife. Save those practices for when its necessary. If you do need to spray, resort to spot spraying to minimize killing of non-target species. If you want to mow the roadside by your house, consider mowing a single pass, wait until after nesting season to mow, and dont mow the grass any shorter than a foot. That way, the next time youre out on your tractor youll feel a little better when you see that covey of quail.

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Conservation Column: Leave it be | Voices | atchisonglobenow.com - atchisonglobenow.com

GENTLEMEN, lay down your lawnmowers. Theres a new school of thought taking rootan idea that would scrap the Saturday afternoon-killing mow and end the merry-go-round of chemical applications. How? Tear out the grass and replant all or part of your yard with native flora, which requires less water and less maintenance in the long run, and can foster a more functional ecosystem, to boot.

Residential lawnswhich we have 40 million acres ofare thirstier than any agricultural crop. Nationwide, we use 9 billion gallons of water for landscape irrigation each day (and as much as half of that amount is lost to inefficiencies). Many homeowners also spray with broad-spectrum insecticides, which, in addition to their health risks, can kill off the insects responsible for pollinating 90 percent of all flowering plants.

Beyond all that, the cultural relevance of the all-American lawn is an artifact anyway. As pop-historian Yuval Noah Harari has pointed out, sprawling, labor-intensive lawns were essentially a flex by Middle Age aristocrats, who used them as function-free status symbols.

New lawns require new thinking. Douglas Tallamy champions the concept well in Natures Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation that Starts in Your Yard (Timber Press). Tallamy, a professor of entomology at the University of Delaware, argues that beyond protected public lands, weve overlooked the importance of our own private lands, where residential yards play a key role in supporting a functioning ecosystem.

Our human footprint is so gigantic, Tallamy explains, that we cant say, Well, were going to have a functional ecosystem someplace elsethere is no someplace else.

That doesnt mean ripping out the entire lawn. Tallamy just suggests you avoid planting invasive species that do little to support insect life, the birds that eat those insects, and your local ecosystem.

It may seem cheaper to plant a patch of thirsty sod and to stock your yard with popular plants from the local box store, but, in the long run, a native landscape can actually be less expensive than a highly maintained and traditional lawn. Jack Pizzo, a Chicago landscape architect renowned for planting wildflower meadows in both corporate and residential settings, says that, During the first two, three, four years, its roughly the same cost. After that, your desired plants tend to reproduce, crowding the weeds outit looks good and doesnt require the labor.

To reduce water consumption, municipalities nationwide have rolled out cash for grass programs; the Metropolitan Water District of Southern California recently increased its rebate to $2 per square foot of grass removed. Las Vegas turf rebate has been credited for annually saving 10 billion gallons of water, playing a part in the unlikely rise of Lake Mead, the Wests largest reservoir. Online seminars offering to Convert Your Lawn to Prairie are selling out. Rewilding has become a buzzword in landscaping circles.

Where to start? Look to state and local chapters of Master Naturalists and Native Plant Societies for help and local intel. Check to see if your municipality has incentivized renovations to promote water conservation. And start shopping from sustainable-minded retailers like Native American Seed, a Texas outfit that ships alternatives like buffalo grass and wildflower-and-grass seed mixes.

Were still in the earlier stages of a mass shift, but weve gone beyond the early adopters, says Native American Seeds Bill Neiman about the growth of native and wildlife-centric landscaping. People are awakening to something that weve gone numb on, which is our total interconnectedness to all things.

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Why You Should Kill Your Lawn and Switch to Native Landscaping - Men's Journal

Day Results9 / 3-4-12020 Overall 12381238 / 441-412-510Win % of Top Pick35.62%Payoff % of Top 3 Picks Overall36.70%2020 Top Pick in the Money 805-1,23865.02%Top Selection ITM / CD 86-12270.49%Top Selections Win / CD 45-12236.89%Key Horses @ CD 18-5-5-327.78% Win / 72.22% ITMKey Horses in 2020 168-56-39-2433.33% Win / 70.83% ITM

Only managed three winners out of the 9 races carded on Thursday, but we squeezed out the back door with 6 exactas on the day.

Each $1 played rendered the likes of $11.30, $22.10, $30.70, $32.00, $12.80 and $20.00. No bombs to write home about. But we didnt get bombed out, either.

Looking forward to Friday and a very difficult card. Prices will likely be the norm, IMO.

Heres our looks:

1st: 5-3/1-6/4Reason to Soar (5)comes from the barn of one of 2020s hottest trainers. Has won with .22% this year in 931 previous starts. This one was nipped here last time out. Lost by a head in the final jump. Returns as a beaten favorite and the barn wins with .28% of those kind. Has easy speed and has a 3-2-1 mark in 15 tries at this distance. Looks the best to me, but never won here in 5 previous tries. Vunerable at a short price?Laddie Boy (3)won here last time out, nipping our top pick right the wire. Will have to carry 2 more pounds than the top pick this time around. Could be the difference. Barn wins with .16% of those that won the last time out. Ridder is not having a blast here this meet, with a modest 1 win in 20 starts. Ouch.I bet the 5 to win/place/show and then box the 5-3 in one exacta. I will key the 5 over/under the numbers in twoother exactas.

2nd: 1-3-4/2-6/5Limonite (1)will switch off the turf and back to the main track for this one today. Barn wins with .20% when making this surface switch. Ran 3rd over a sloppy track at Oaklawn Park in the last try over the main track. But has a 1-1-1 record in 4 starts over this dirt track. Gets the barns go-to rider up. Looks the best on paper.Believeinholidays (3)ran 4th against much, much tougher last time out at Ellis Park. Drops for this one and is coming off a brilliant work session here on Sept. 13. Barn has two 3rds in two races this meet. Like the rider choice.Mos Mojo (4)will be making the 3rd start off the layup and has two nice seconds in a row. Could be ready, but only has 1 win in 6 tries here.I bet the 1-4 across the board and then box the top 3 in the exacta. I will key the top 3 numbers over/under the 2-6 in two shorter units.

3rd: 5/7-4-1/6-2/3The firstKey Play ofthe Daycomes here withRhythm Tree (5).This 3YO daughter of Tapiture is coming off a debacle of a race. Lost by 31 lengths. But drops considerably for this one and the race 2 back was solid enough to expect more and improvement. Barn wins with .25% when dropping this much at once. Catches a soft group, too.I bet the 5 to win/place/show and then key the 5 over/under all the numbers listed in the exactas.

4th: 4-7-2/5-3-11-8/6-12-1-10/9Alfons Walde (4)gets the nod here for me. Has run 9 times to date and is still searching for that elusive winners circle photo opportunity. But does have 2 seconds and 3 thirds on the resume. Gets a new rider, who was 4th on this ones back three races ago. Has talent. Beware.Pintxos (7)moves into the claiming ranks for the first time ever and the barn wins with .16% of those. Returns as a beaten favorite, too, and the trainer wins with .29% of those kind. This is one of those kind. Look for more today, too.Ahnaf (2)could spice up the odds rack here. Drops into the claiming ranks for the first time and this one really ran well here on June 26. Off since then, but the words are OK and the barns can surprise. I like this ones chances a bit.I bet the 4-7 across the board and then box the top 3 in the exacta. I will key the top twonumbers over/under the 2-5-3-11-8-6 in two smaller units.

5th: 3-8/7-1/2-4/6-5Tracis Greeley (3)has been a different horse since moving into the barn of John Ortiz back in the early summer months. Since arriving, this one has a win, a second and two thirds in just 4 races total. Moves up in class here and faces winners for the first time. Barn does win with .20% when the horse won the last affair, too. Gets the same rider back. Click factor here.Isabelles Joy (8)tried the turf last time out and that didnt fare too well. Back on the dirt now and the barn wins with .18% of those making this surface switch. In route to sprints, the trainer wins with .13%.I bet the 3 to win/place/show and then box the top 2 in the exacta. I will key the 3-8 over/under the rest of the numbers listed in two smaller units.

6th: 7-5-8/3-1-4/2/(9)Cash Out (7)gets back to the sod today for a barn that wins with .14% of all grass starters. Returns as a beaten favorite, too, and the barn wins with a whopping .31% of those kind. Gets a new rider up, and the jockey has had a very nice summer in KY. Love the last work on Sept. 18. Looks primed for this one.Turtle Trax (5)starter the career with a real bang. After the opener, this 3YO daughter of Cairo Prince won the next two. Ran 5th in the G2 Golden Rod here last Fall. Has 5 starts this year. No wins, but 2 seconds and a third. Looks like she could use the class drop here, too.Teenage Kicks (8)won two races back and has hit the board in 6 of the last 7. The out was a 4th last time out. Faltered in the late going then. Barn wins with .21% in the allowance ranks and this one keeps a dandy rider.I bet the 7-8 across the board and then box the top 3 in the exacta. I will key the top 2 numbers over/under the 8-3-1-4-2. I use the 9 if it goes offthe turf.

7th: 6-3-8/9-7-1-4/2My Man Flintstone (6)won the last time out and wheels right back for a barn that has been hot of late. This 3YO son of Into Mischief has a win and a second in three races over this surface, and is 2-2-0 in 4 starts at the distance. Looks primed.Majestic West (3)has not won here in 4 starts, but has a second and a third. Trainer wins with .19% making the 3rd start off the layup and the rider has teamed up to go 2-0-1 in the last 4 for this barn operation.Mister K (8)won the last time out in July. Got a breather, again, and now comes in here. Love the ML odds and this one is my firstUpset Special ofthe Day.Same guy trains Bells the One. Dont leave out. Im not.I bet the 6-8 across the board and then box the top 3 in one exacta. I key the 6-8 over/under the 3-9-7-1-4-2 in two smaller units.

8th: 3-8-5/7-1-2/4-6Spycraft (3)comes from the barn of Brad Cox. That enough reason to support? Barn has won with .22% this meet and .24% for the year. This one makes the 2020 debut and the first start for this trainer. Barn does very well with the newcomers and this one gets the barns go-to rider up. Big chance here.Kadri (8)comes off a MSW win last time out here on Sept. 5. Rock and rolled in that one and swept to an easy 2-length win. Barn wins with .30% when they move up to face winners for the first time. Rider is red hot. Has gone 7-4-1 in the last 25 mounts. Sharp work on Sept. 20.I bet the 3-8 across the board and then box the top 3 in the exacta. I will key the 3-8 over/underthe 5-7-1-2-4-6 in two smaller units.

9th: 5-8/2-6-3/1-7/4Belle Laura (5)ran 6th in a G2 event last time out and that was the first run off a layup. Before that, this one won the last two at Gulfstream Park. The tough Beau Recall won that last one. In 12 turf races, she has 3 wins and 2 thirds. Has the speed to be close in this one from the get-go. Looks primed.Amazima (8)has a second and third in two starts here. In 11 runs, she has a 3-1-2 mark. Dam of this one has 2 turf winners from 10 starters and 2 Stakes winners. Big chance.I bet the 5-8 across theboard andthen box those two in the exacta. I will key the 5-8 over/under the 2-6-3-1-7 in two smaller units.

10th: 8-2/7-6/1-4-3Movie Moxy (8)is myKey Play of the Day.This 3YO daughter of Street Sense lost by a neck last time out and returns as a beaten favorite here. Barn wins with .31% of them. Work on Sept. 21 was spot on. This one cost $225,000 at the 2018 KEE September Yearling Sale and looks primed and edgy. My solo pick.I bet the 8 to win/place/show and then box the 8-2 in the exacta. I will key the 8 over/under the rest of the numbers listed in two smaller units.

Good Luck & All the Best / Gene

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Final Version: McLean's Selections for Churchill Downs on Friday, Sept. 25 - The Pressbox

Growing a great lawn should be like rolling down a hill. A deep green, grassy hill.

Easy.

Many readers will want to turn their attention to the grass growing under their feet, as chances are, it has not been growing much until recently. Our long, hot and dry summer was not exactly grass-growing friendly.

Once again, we come to the rescue.

The best lawn-growing weather of the season is now.

Even if it is dry where you live, there are some things that are consistent every September. Days get shorter, nighttime dew is heavy and generally, our evenings are cooler than they were just a month ago.

We grow great grass in many parts of Canada because we can. Which is why sod growing is a massive business.

Thickening an established lawn or starting a new one is much easier now than in spring.

Let us help you get started:

If weeds predominate, brown areas have occurred during the drought or bare patches appear for whatever reason (dog urine?) start by spreading a 6 to 8 cm layer of lawn soil or triple mix over the area. Rake smooth. Spread quality lawn seed at the rate of 1 kg over 100 m2 (2lb/1,000 ft2). Rake smooth again. Step on it or use a lawn roller, 1/3 full of water, to firm the seed and soil together. Water thoroughly.

Follow the same advice, above, but be sure the area is weed free before you sow the new seed. Double the seed rate.

Len Cullen, Marks dad and Bens grandpa, used to say that you could lay sod upside down in September and it would still grow. Mark knows this is true. Neither one of us recommend that you try it. Sod costs much more per sq. metre than seed but it is instant and this time of year it puts down roots in a hurry. Lay sod on a bed of quality triple mix or lawn soil that is at least 8 to 10 cm thick. The thicker the good soil, the better-quality grass you will grow over the long haul.

It drives us crazy to see fall lawn food featured for sale this time of year. Retailers are responding to consumer demand for the product in September. We are all for The customer is always right mantra. But this time, they are wrong. The best time of the year to fertilize your lawn is in late autumn, like October or early November. A couple of weeks before the snow flies. The reason for this late application of lawn food is to build up the natural sugars in the roots of the grass plants, boosting grass plant nutrients in preparation for the long winter ahead. Yes, winter is coming. But not for three or four months, so do not get your woolly socks out just yet.

Your lawn responds best to being cut at 7 to 9 cm high (two-and-a-half to three inches). The higher the better, as the longer the grass blades, the deeper the roots. And the deeper the roots, the more tolerant your lawn is of drought, overwatering, snow mold and disease.

Use a mulching mower if you possibly can. Returning the grass blades to the root zone of grass plants is what Mother Nature intended (yes, her again).

Speaking of Mother Nature therein is the point of the whole thing. We do not control the weather or the changing of the seasons. Nature provides all kinds of cues for us to do various jobs around the garden and right now, all the signs point to your lawn.

Someday, perhaps, humans will control the tilt of the Earth, day length and weather patterns. But until then the best advice we can give you is to follow natures lead.

Mark Cullen is an expert gardener, author, broadcaster, tree advocate and member of the Order of Canada. His son Ben is a fourth-generation urban gardener and graduate of University of Guelph and Dalhousie University in Halifax. Follow them at markcullen.com, @markcullengardening, and on Facebook.

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GREENFILE: The best lawn-growing weather of the season is now - The Journal Pioneer

The summer has flown by and, like it or not, I have to start thinking about fall activities that need to be accomplished long before winter decides to show up. It has not been an easy summer. It seems a lot of time was spent trying to catch up on things and either dealing with dry periods or trying to get something done in between rains. I was reminded recently that one of my uncles would say that he prefers a rain every Saturday evening. That way, activities could resume as scheduled Monday morning and moisture would still be enough. Weather will never be that predictable, but it would be nice.

It is the time of year to be thinking about any stockpiled forage that you might want or need. Ive said it before, but if tall fescue has an attribute, it is as winter stockpile. It does need to be thought out some, and you will have to do some planning if you want quality forage for winter grazing.

Any tall fescue fields that you plan on stockpiling to use in the winter need to be deferred from grazing starting immediately or better yet, last week. You want to be able to accumulate as much new fall growth as possible on these fields to create standing hay that you can use later.

Graze, mow or hay the field to even out the stand and hopefully, with moisture, new vegetation will start growing if it isnt already. Apply 30-60 pounds of nitrogen if clover isnt at least 30%t of the stand. Urea works well as long as moisture is present. Judging how much clover is present can be misleading. There always appears to be more than there really is. It is best assessed by dry weights, and no, I dont expect most people to do that, but you can visually estimate it. If it appears to occupy about 50% of the stand and a white clover, then you can normally assume that in reality it is about 25% of the stand. If it is about 50%t of the stand and a red clover, then it is usually close to that %age. White clovers have a lot more moisture and dont account for as much dry weight as red clover when visually estimating them. Carefully graze fields heavy in clover prior to stockpiling to help promote the grass.

Defer grazing and stockpile at least one acre of tall fescue per 1000-pound live weight that you plan to be grazing. Of course, more is better. Tall fescues greatest attribute is its ability to maintain its nutritional value throughout the winter. During December, January and February, tall fescue will really shine; the rest of the time it is only somewhat tolerable. Fall-grown tall fescue can average 13 to 18 % crude protein depending on how much nitrogen has been applied to the stand and will maintain good nutritional value on up into the spring when new growth starts to appear. Ive tested lots of stockpiled forage (much of it tall fescue) and the lowest value Ive ever seen with the fescue was 11% crude protein with 62% digestibility, and that was in early March right before new growth. At this quality, it is better feed than a lot of hay. The ergovaline, the endophyte toxin associated with tall fescue, is usually reduced after a hard freeze, so procrastinating on grazing it is a good thing.

Always good to test forages and feed to make sure it is meeting the nutritional requirements of the animals utilizing it. I really wish orchardgrass would hold value like this over winter, but it falls apart quite quickly after hard freezes. Most people think that ergovaline doesnt pose a problem in stockpiled fescue because the ergovaline appears to concentrate in seed heads and stockpiled fescue is generally vegetative. Livestock eat stockpiled fescue better after a couple of hard frosts or freezing conditions. This suggests that there is still ergovaline present in infected fescue, reducing intake until after freezing conditions. Most studies have found that ergovaline content drops fairly fast after mid-December. Sadly, as long as endophyte-infected tall fescue is growing, it is probably still producing some ergovaline. I might like long, warm falls, but it can delay the ergovaline reduction. An earlier winter or cold weather tends to prompt lower levels of ergovaline. So, the best time frame to utilize endophyte-infected tall fescue is probably mid to late winter. Ergovaline in hay also reduces over time. I do believe that cooler, healthier soils tend to have lower ergovaline content, especially with good diversity.

For now, let the fields used for stockpiling grow. Continue rotating through the rest of the pastures like normal, maintaining stop-grazing heights as much as possible. If you have corn stalks, hay aftermath or annuals that can be grazed, that may provide you more opportunity to defer those stockpiled fields longer and possibly grow even more stockpile. Corn stalk fields that are planted to grazable annuals create even more opportunity to stockpile and can buy you more growth time and grazing time. If you have crop fields close that can be grazed, there are a lot of opportunities, especially when these are planted to annuals. High quality forage can be produced in the fall if planted early enough. My favorite mix is spring oats, turnips or radish, and cereal rye. The oats and brassica come on early and with sufficient moisture can produce a lot of quality forage. The cereal rye remains fairly quiet in the background until spring and then it kicks in providing the opportunity for some spring grazing or just prime cover to no-till into.

So, its time to be thinking about getting that fall annual mix planted. The earlier it is planted, the more potential growth you have. Fall oats are higher in water-soluble sugars and have a higher level of total digestible nutrients than spring grown oats and produce a lot of quality forage in a short time frame with sufficient moisture. Those oats and turnips grow fast under good conditions. Being able to get off pastures for a while in the late summer or early fall allows pastures to rest and grow more forage for use later; a perfect situation for some stockpiling.

Ive been asked about how much space is needed for a winter-feeding area. There are several it depends involved: soil type, presence of heavy use area, drainage, vegetation type, certainly weather, and to a degree the type of feed used. I really hope that you dont need it too much, but it always should be part of your contingency plan.

I usually plan at least 100 square feet of pad per animal unit. That is often not enough depending on the weather and length of time its needed. If you cant clean off the area over the period, then quite often, another site or extensions are beneficial. I dont like animals on any site more than 45 days. Concentrated areas will usually be totally denuded and can present erosion issues from loss of vegetation. If left on a larger area over winter, there are typically less concentrated areas but the entire area is grubbed extremely close, especially all new growth as spring approaches. This usually grossly retards forage growth and requires a long deferment before grazing again to allow desirable species to grow back. The more disturbance, the less likely that will happen and thus prickly pigweed, barnyard grass, cocklebur, goose grass, or any weed in general will take over. Id estimate that if the overwintering area is less than 1/4 acre per animal unit, severe damage to the forage stand and sod will often occur. A half-acre might be better mud wise, depending on the drainage and soils, but the vegetation can still be damaged; okay, probably another good topic in the near future.

Remember, its not about maximizing a grazing event, but maximizing a grazing season! Keep on grazing!

Reminders and Opportunities: More pasture information and past issues of Grazing Bites are available at https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/in/technical/landuse/pasture/

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Grazing Bites: It's time to start thinking about fall - Washington Times Herald

On Sunday, the Washington Football Team tweeted a photo of FedEx Field's, well, field, along with a caption about how the NFL season is just about here:

Pretty standard post, correct? Not exactly.

Fans on social media quickly noticed how manicured the stadium's surface looked, which isn't something it's typically known for. And that prompted many to ask a question.

Did Washington switch over to turf during the offseason?

The answer to that is no.

In light of all the curiosity that the team's picture sparked, NBC Sports Washington reached out to someone familiar with the groundskeeping at the stadium to confirm that it still features grass. They did just that.

According to that person, FedEx Field's Bermuda grass was completely replaced in June. Fittingly, the sod used in that process came from the Carolina Green sod farm. That's just one more connection between the franchise and Ron Rivera's old employer.

The person also acknowledged that not hosting concerts and other non-football events, which was common in the past, contributed to the improved appearance.

Those two factors are why it looks so sweet right now.As usual, the middle portion of the field will be replaced in the middle of the year if necessary.

So, there you have it. You can stop your zooming in on the picture and screaming about the matter on Twitter. Go scream about something else instead.

Mitch Tischler contributed to this report.

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No, FedEx Field didn't switch to turf this offseason - NBCSports.com

I am watching the grass grow. Literally.

About this time each year I usually write something about my garden a new flower, how the tomatoes are doing or what the deer have found particularly tasty this year but in 2020, the year of COVID-19, it really is about watching the grass grow.

As I have said before, I came to this green thumb thing rather late in life and am continuously surprising myself at how much Im liking it. Who knew?

Latest chapter Ive been paying attention to how the lawn in front of our house has been deteriorating in recent seasons. Yes, we weed and feed and water. And yes, its green, but full of gawd-awful weeds and who knows what. Last summer we had a weed guy give us some advice, which turned out to be that the lawn wasnt really salvageable. A landscape guy told us how to proceed from there.

In addition, our sprinkler system had blown up, so that would have to be tended to as well.

We killed out the lawn in the fall. In early spring, we again killed out any weeds that regenerated, and were all set for the landscaper to come in and lay sod in May, right after he repaired the sprinkler system.

But before that could happen, the new coronavirus had shut everything down.

Because I had already planted geraniums, salvia and sunpatiens out front, in anticipation of everything being up and working, I had to hand- and spot-water the blooming things. Surely, a minor inconvenience in light of how COVID-19 was ravaging the nation, but still something for me to deal with.

Unfortunately, the landscaper began being harder to get hold of. Phone calls not returned. Things promised but not delivered. And finally, silence. I hope he didnt lose his company. But there I was in July, looking for a new guy.

Meantime, I had potted, as usual, the assorted plants and flowers and tomatoes I keep on my back deck, up and away from the deer. These I always water using a hose connected to a water source below the deck. Im happy to report that I have a new dahlia variety doing well this year, plus the little succulent cuttings I brought home a year ago from the yard of my friend in California are also coming along nicely out there.

With a good recommendation, I found another landscaper, but he was backlogged with his regular customers, so I had to wait. It didnt look like Id get a lawn in until the end of summer. He could (and did) fix the sprinkler system sooner, but I didnt want to turn it on just for border flowers, so I continued grumpily hand watering.

Then one of his customers canceled a scheduled job, and we were able to get our new lawn on Aug. 3. Oh, happy day. Sprinkler system engaged and adjusted a couple of times, and a Kentucky blue grass lawn abounds out front. Were still in the heavy watering phase as the grass is putting out roots, but it is such a delight to see.

I know theres criticism of lawns in general, which Ill gladly engage another day, but today, I am so happy just to watch my grass grow. And to tend my garden.

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Front Porch: Thrilled to watch the green, green grass of home - The Spokesman-Review

Growing a great lawn should be like rolling down a hill a deep green, grassy hill. It should be easy.

Many of us have turned our attention to the grass growing under our feet. Chances are, it has not been growing much until recently. Our long, hot and dry summer was not exactly grass-growing friendly.

And, once again, we come to the rescue with some good news: The best lawn-growing weather of the season is now.

Even if it is dry where you live, there are some things that are consistent every September. Days get shorter, nighttime dew is heavy and generally our evenings are cooler than they were just a month ago.

We grow great grass in many parts of Canada because we can. The sod-growing industry is a massive business the provincial agriculture ministry says more than 4,000 hectares of sod are grown in Ontario alone each year.

Thickening an established lawn or starting a new one is much easier now than in spring.

Let us help you get started with these five tips:

1. Thickening an established lawn: If weeds dominate your grass, or brown areas have occurred during the summer drought, or bare patches appear for whatever reason (if you have a dog or dog visitors, you know what we mean) start by spreading a six to eight centimetres of lawn soil or triple mix over the area. Rake it smooth.

Spread quality lawn seed at the rate of one kilogram over 100 square metres (about two pounds/1,000 square feet). Rake it smooth again. Then step on it or use a lawn roller, one-third full of water, to firm the seed and soil together. Water thoroughly.

2. Starting a new lawn: Follow the same advice, above, but be sure that the area is weed-free before you sow the new seed. Double the seed rate.

3. Sodding: Len Cullen Marks dad and Bens grandpa said you could lay sod upside down in September and it would still grow. He said it after a young Mark protested his role on a sod-laying crew by turning his lengths grass-side down. Those strips, indeed, grew grass. But we dont recommend you try it.

Sod costs much more per square metre than seed. But it is an instant solution to achieve good grass, and this time of year it puts down roots in a hurry.

Lay sod on a bed of quality triple mix or lawn soil that is at least eight to 10 cm thick. The thicker the good soil, the better-quality grass you will grow over the long haul.

4. Fertilizing: It drives us crazy to see fall lawn food featured for sale this time of year. Retailers are responding to consumer demand for the product in September. And while we are all for the service mantra of the customer is always right, they are wrong are fertilizing grass this time of year.

The best time of the year to fertilize your lawn is in late autumn, like October or early November a couple of weeks before the snow flies. The reason for this late application of lawn food is to build up the natural sugars in the roots of the grass plants, boosting grass plant nutrients in preparation for the long winter ahead.

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Yes, winter is coming. But not for three or four months, so do not get your woolly socks out just yet. Nor your lawn fertilizer.

5. Cutting: Your lawn responds best to being cut at seven to nine cm high (2-1/2 to three inches). The higher the better, as the longer the grass blades, the deeper the roots. And the deeper the roots, the more tolerant your lawn is of drought, overwatering snow mould and disease.

Use a mulching mower if you can. Returning the grass blades to the root zone of grass plants is what Mother Nature intended.

Speaking of Mother Nature, therein is the point of the whole thing. We do not control the weather or the changing of the seasons. Nature provides all kinds of cues for us to do various jobs around the garden and right now, all the signs point to your lawn (and dividing hostas well share those details with you in an upcoming column).

And, along with our tips, the best advice we can give you to help grow a good lawn is to follow natures lead.

Mark and Ben Cullen are expert gardeners and contributors for the Star. Follow Mark on Twitter: @MarkCullen4

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Try these five tips to protect and grow your home turf - Toronto Star