This past spring may have messed up your grass and alfalfa seeding plans.

The wet weather prevented some folks from getting their new seedings established in May. Some growers took the risk and planted them in mid- to late June while others have decided to wait to establish a late-summer seeding.

I would like to take this opportunity to review some of the management and details necessary for a successful summer seeding.

A late-summer seeding can be a very good way to establish alfalfa, grasses or mixed legume/grass stands.

There are both advantages and risks associated with a summer seeding. Weeds and insect pressures are generally much less than when compared to spring seeding. Your workload may not be as heavy this time of year.

Dry weather poses the greatest risk for a late-summer seeding failure. Early frost and poorer establishment techniques can also affect the success of the seeding.

In northern New York, summer seedings should be established by early to mid-August. Reed canarygrass and birdsfoot trefoil are two exceptions. They are slower to establish and should be seeded in late July. Later establishments could be damaged by an early frost.

According to Jerry Cherney, Cornell University, a late-summer seeding of reed canarygrass may be better than a spring seeding.

Weeds are usually less of a problem in summer seedings. Chemical weed control is not needed because the first frost will kill any of the annual weeds that come in. Perennial weeds, such as quackgrass, must be controlled before you plant the seeding. Any of the glyphosate products will take care of the quackgrass prior to establishment.

Do not use any companion crop to try to choke out the weeds. A companion crop will compete for moisture with your forage seeding.

Lack of rainfall and inadequate soil moisture are some of the greatest risks associated with summer seedings. The decision to establish a summer seeding should be based on current soil moisture and the extended short-term weather forecast. Dont take the gamble and plant in a bone-dry seedbed. If it is too dry and it does not look like Mother Nature is going to cooperate, keep the seed in the bag.

Summer seeding establishment principles are the same as spring seedings. Proper soil pH and adjusting starter fertilizer rates according to soil tests are necessary.

A good seedbed and correct seed placement also contribute to a successful summer seeding. There is no need to adjust seeding rates at this time of year.

Soil tests take the guesswork out of your lime and fertilizer applications. If your soil needs a boost in pH, hopefully the lime was applied last fall.

Alfalfa or alfalfa/grass mixes do not need any nitrogen in the starter fertilizer. Refer to the Cornell Guide for Integrated Crop Management or your current soil test for suggested phosphorus or potassium rates needed for establishment.

The next step in establishing a successful summer seeding is proper seedbed preparation. A very firm seedbed will not dry out as fast as a loose or lumpy seedbed. Test your seedbed by walking across the field. Pack the seedbed firm enough so that your footprints are hardly visible. You should sink in no more than half an inch. A cultimulcher or cultipacker is a good tool to use just before planting. Depending on your seeding equipment, packing the soil after seeding may be needed.

The seed planting depth should be about one-quarter inch and no more than half an inch deep.

Dont assume that the seed is being planted properly. Get off the tractor and look to see how deep you are planting those many little seeds. If you are not seeing a few seeds on the surface, chances are you are planting too deep.

Harvesting the seeding this fall is not a recommended practice.

Those tender, young plants do not have a strong root system yet. Dont harvest until next spring.

Late summer can be a good time to establish alfalfa, grasses and legume/grass mixtures. If you are interested in trying a summer seeding and have any further questions or comments, feel free to contact Mike Hunter at 315-788-8450 or Kitty ONeil at 315-854-1218.

Michael Hunter is a field crops and soils educator with the North Country Regional Ag Team.

More here:
Late-Summer Seedings in Northern New York - Lancaster Farming

Grasses that once covered Nebraska have now spent another 50 years growing and flourishing in farmers pasture.

WINNETOON, Neb. (AP) James Wagner has lived on the family farm in rural Winnetoon for most of his life.

He was born here and went to grade school right across the road. Hes seen things change, but hes also seen much that has stayed the same.

One constant for the past 50 years is a pasture that Wagner planted in 1967 as part of a government program. To commemorate Nebraskas 100th anniversary that year, Wagner said he could participate in a centennial seeding program. The program required planting a mix of native grasses.

Wagner originally participated in the program mainly because of the conservation benefits.

The ground was washing, Wagner said.

Grasses that once covered Nebraska have now spent another 50 years growing and flourishing in Wagners pasture, the Norfolk Daily News reported . But it wasnt easy to get them started.

The first year, I got so disgusted. The ground was just like now: dry, dry, dry. Of course, grass, when it comes out, its just a little string. You can barely see it, he said.

Even planting the grass was challenging.

It was very hard to get big blue to seed through the seeder. Its so hairy, feathery, he said.

With patience, Wagner said, the grass eventually began to grow and would produce its own seeds to help the pasture expand and thicken.

Eventually then when they drop their own seed, it seems like they spread out, Wagner said.

Despite the program ending, he kept the native grasses and managed them through grazing. He has never had to reseed it, and he doesnt mow it.

I just leave it alone, he said.

The native grasses include a mixture of warm- and cool-season grasses.

Big blue and little blue, thats bluestem. Indiangrass. Now it doesnt seem like theres any of the grama grasses. Ive never seen any there. Generally, you get them, too. And then wheatgrass, probably western wheat. Its a cool-season grass. Presumably, thats for early grazing. ... Warm-season are just starting to come on real good now, Wagner said of what he sees growing in the mixture now.

At 88 years old, Wagner still grazes cattle on the native grasses and rotates them through his other pastures as well. This year the cows grazed the centennial grass from about May to July before being moved to another pasture.

The grass is allowed to recover and grow before Wagner will bring the cows back to graze it one more time.

Generally, you get enough moisture that it really comes back good in the fall, he said.

So theyll be in the next pasture about three months and then theyll come back over here toward fall, and then Ill sell the calves and the cows go out to the cornstalks.

Raising livestock is something that Wagners have done at their farmstead since James grandfather farmed here.

My grandfather bought it in, well, itd be about 110 years ago. My dad got it, and then I got it. He almost settled west of Creighton in 1871. But he bought a piece of ground and got out in this country here, he said.

The farm has seen cows and calves, horses, fattened cattle that were marketed in Sioux City, and even crops like corn and oats. Wagner stopped crop farming 10 years ago, and the horses and feedyard are long gone. He even has reduced his cow herd.

Im gonna have to quit. I cant outrun the cows, he said.

But with all that has changed in agriculture, in Nebraska and in the world over the years, Wagner still has his resilient native grasses from the centennial seeding.

Im starting to feel proud of it now, Wagner said of his native grass.

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Link:
Nebraska native grasses grow strong after 50 years - Capital Press

James Wagner has lived on the family farm in rural Winnetoon for most of his life.

He was born here and went to grade school right across the road. He's seen things change, but he's also seen much that has stayed the same.

One constant for the past 50 years is a pasture that Wagner planted in 1967 as part of a government program. To commemorate Nebraska's 100th anniversary that year, Wagner said he could participate in a centennial seeding program. The program required planting a mix of native grasses.

Wagner originally participated in the program mainly because of the conservation benefits.

"The ground was washing," Wagner said.

Grasses that once covered Nebraska have now spent another 50 years growing and flourishing in Wagner's pasture. But it wasn't easy to get them started.

"The first year, I got so disgusted. The ground was just like now: dry, dry, dry. Of course, grass, when it comes out, it's just a little string. You can barely see it," he said.

Even planting the grass was challenging.

"It was very hard to get big blue to seed through the seeder. It's so hairy, feathery," he said.

With patience, Wagner said, the grass eventually began to grow and would produce its own seeds to help the pasture expand and thicken.

"Eventually then when they drop their own seed, it seems like they spread out," Wagner said.

Despite the program ending, he kept the native grasses and managed them through grazing. He has never had to reseed it, and he doesn't mow it.

"I just leave it alone," he said.

The native grasses include a mixture of warm- and cool-season grasses.

"Big blue and little blue, that's bluestem. Indiangrass. Now it doesn't seem like there's any of the grama grasses. I've never seen any there. Generally, you get them, too. And then wheatgrass, probably western wheat. It's a cool-season grass. Presumably, that's for early grazing. ... Warm-season are just starting to come on real good now," Wagner said of what he sees growing in the mixture now.

At 88 years old, Wagner still grazes cattle on the native grasses and rotates them through his other pastures as well. This year the cows grazed the centennial grass from about May to July before being moved to another pasture.

The grass is allowed to recover and grow before Wagner will bring the cows back to graze it one more time.

"Generally, you get enough moisture that it really comes back good in the fall," he said.

"So they'll be in the next pasture about three months and then they'll come back over here toward fall, and then I'll sell the calves and the cows go out to the cornstalks."

Raising livestock is something that Wagners have done at their farmstead since James' grandfather farmed here.

"My grandfather bought it in, well, it'd be about 110 years ago. My dad got it, and then I got it. He almost settled west of Creighton in 1871. But he bought a piece of ground and got out in this country here," he said.

The farm has seen cows and calves, horses, fattened cattle that were marketed in Sioux City, and even crops like corn and oats. Wagner stopped crop farming 10 years ago, and the horses and feedyard are long gone. He even has reduced his cow herd.

"I'm gonna have to quit. I can't outrun the cows!" he said.

But with all that has changed in agriculture, in Nebraska and in the world over the years, Wagner still has his resilient native grasses from the centennial seeding.

"I'm starting to feel proud of it now," Wagner said of his native grass.

Visit link:
Native grasses going strong after getting re-introduced - Norfolk Daily News

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Read more from the original source:
Bermuda Grass Seed for Lawn|Bermuda Grass for Seeding and ...

Bermudagrass.com - An Informational Website From Seedland.com EasySeed 1-2-3 Steps To Planting Bermuda Grass Lawns

The first question that must be answered is will you be "starting from scratch"? A decision must be made to either plant within an existing lawn or to till up your lawn area so that no weeds or grasses are left living in the area to be planted. The ideal situation is to have tilled soil for the area where you wish to establish a grass from seed.

Why is this the ideal solution? Because existing plants that are directly next to (6 inches or closer) of where you are trying to establish other grass plants from seed, provide competition to your seeds by consuming sunlight & plant nutrients.

Competition by existing plants means some plants (seedlings) simply won't survive the additional stress imposed by these adult plants. This is not to say you can't establish a lawn within other plants, just that it is more difficult to do so.

BERMUDA DOES BEST IN FULL SUN! It does not tolerate shade very well. So keep that sunlight coming for a great lawn.

Bermudagrass seeds have a tough outer hull that can increase germination time. Hulled seed have this seed coat removed and will germinate quicker than un-hulled seed in a lawn, pasture or hay field. Sometimes hulled and un-hulled seed will be sown together to insure a more successful and surer establishment. Most lawn varieties sold of Bermuda seed are coated and a mixture of hulled and un-hulled seed. The coating is a clay based product applied with a fungicide and dye. The fungicide helps control seed and soil borne pathogens, while the coating material itself allows for more acceptable pricing of expensive seed. Coated seeds are also easier to broadcast when planting. Raw seeds are seeds that have NOT been coated. Other than the lack of a fungicide there is nothing wrong with raw seeds.

*Germination Rates: Bermudagrass seed is available in three forms - hulled, un-hulled and coated. Un-hulled seed is the natural seed form, which will germinate in 7 - 14 days. Hulled seed has had the outer skin (hull) removed for faster germination, 5-10 days to germinate. Coated seed has been pelleted with clay containing nutrients to improve ease of planting and establishment -- this does NOT affect germination rates. In all 3 forms, minimum germination of quality seed is 80% or higher.

*Germination rates will also depend upon environmental factors such as soil temperatures, available moisture, seedbed and soil type. Also keep in mind planting depth of seed which should not exceed 1/4 inch.

Common Bermuda grass is also traditionally available for establishment by seed. Most seeded types of Bermuda Grass are "improvements" of common Bermuda with similar but improved genetic characteristics depending on the breeder's goal for the particular variety.

Many times the purpose of planting Bermuda Grass Seed is to improve the existing stand of Bermudagrass. In the case of Bermuda Grass --- this is done to increase a stand density of Bermuda sod and to try and help reduce or eliminate weeds. Some of this can be achieved through cultural maintenance practices, but in cases where the grass is very thin, you may need to re-seed (overseed) those sparse areas.

First: Decide if you will till the soil (kill the existing plants by plowing up your site!) or just plant within the existing grass. Also decide on the type of Bermuda grass to plant.

I will TILL my site and start Fresh!

I will NOT TILL my site - I want to overseed my existing lawn.

You are not tilling the soil - and are planting seeds within the existing grass & weeds

(1) Mow the area low in spring or fall, remove the excess plant material - Then Sow (broadcast) your Bermudagrass seeds on the area to be planted generally in the spring for best results. Planting in the fall at the same time you use a cover crop such as ryegrass can be used, but the odds of successful establishment are lower. Use un-hulled Bermuda if seeding in the fall. Bermuda seeds require a soil temperature of above 65 degrees to germinate and will not start germinating until this temp coupled with adequate soil moisture is present.. Optimum outside air planting temps should be 75-90 degrees.

(2) Rake the area sowed with a hand rake so that scratch marks in the soil between plants allow some seeds to fall into these valleys and become covered by soil over time (from your rake action and later from rains). Bermudagrass seeds must have a thin soil covering to germinate (1/4 inch ideal) - They DO NOT germinate when thrown on top of the ground. Use the correct rate of seed for Bermudagrass lawns. It is best to rake before and after broadcasting the seed to achieve best soil contact.

(3) Follow your normal water, fertilizing and mowing practices for the area you have planted on a regular basis. That's all! Eventually - (After several months of growing season time has gone bye - usually 60 to 90 days)-you should have an improved, more lush and thick Bermudagrass lawn. - Note: freshly seeded lawns require more frequent watering, usually daily.

Picture of Bermuda Seedling - 21 days old

The seeding rate for overseeding an existing Bermudagrass lawn is -- 1 -2 LBS per 1,000 sq. ft. or 45-90 lbs. per acre.

On erosion areas such as banks more seed will have to be added and can be seeded with rye grasses (only in the cool season) that grow early and fast while the Bermuda takes hold. Rate for new lawns (hulled / coated seeds) is 2 to 3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates for grasses. - Also read the rates listed below.

(1) Till the area to be planted. This can be done with either a garden tiller or a tractor harrow/tiller (Or even a shovel if you have a good back!). Once the area is returned to soil, level the ground by raking or dragging something over the surface until it is smooth and level. Now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice smooth lawn.

(2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turf grass planter or sow the seeds by hand, or just as easy and much preferred, buy a broadcast seeder (hand held models are available for $8-30) like the one above. Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area, so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is ideal covering). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding Bermuda's.

(3) Water the area you have planted as needed. Apply fertilizer in intervals through the growing season, and practice a regular mowing schedule. Mowing the weeds that will grow in your new lawn area faster than the grass, allows the grass to compete better for scarce nutrients and sunlight. - Mow regular and at the correct height. - Note: freshly seeded lawns require more frequent watering, usually daily.

Seeding Rate: Plant 2 to 3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. (coated seed) or at a rate of 90-135 lbs per Acre.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not exceed 3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. with the improved bermuda grass varieties.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is different. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush lawns is achieved.

A good final finish to planting a Bermudagrass lawn is to roll your planted lawn area with a hand roller. You can rent these implements from rental stores in your area. This compacts the soil around the seed, creating a more favorable environment for Bermudagrass seed germination. The rolling also smoothes the soil providing for a more level lawn.

ESTABLISHMENT: Seed or sprig on a well-prepared surface for maximum germination and growth. For pasture use, Bermudagrass can be seeded or sprigged on a well-prepared seedbed with or without legumes or cover crops. Mulching (hay / mulch) will help to conserve moistures, but be careful not to apply too thick of a mulch cover to inhibit germination.

Keep in mind that establishing a bermudagrass lawn from seed takes time! So be patient and do not expect an "instant lawn".

Your lawn will grow to be beautiful over time! If you can't wait..... consider SODDING

"I just planted my Bermudagrass seed two weeks ago and I don't see any grass."

--- First of all, Bermudagrass takes 10-30 days to germinate under ideal situations (adequate warm-moist 70+ degree soil conditions). Some seeds germinate faster and some take months longer. Hulled seed generally germinate faster than un-hulled Bermuda seed. It all depends on the soil and climate for the period after you plant. Bermudagrass loves hot moist soil to germinate. That is when it will germinate the fastest. Keeping adequate moisture throughout the day is also a critical factor. Watering more than once a day may be a requirement of your lawns soil & weather.

PICTURE OF BERMUDA GRASS SEEDLING (21 Days Old)

--- Secondly, keep in mind that these plants are much like a child. When a child is conceived it generally takes 9 months to emerge. Same with Bermudagrass, except it only takes 2-4 weeks if conditions are right. Then it starts the long process of maturing into an adult Bermuda plant (if conditions aren't right it wont even start!). Once it has germinated and emerged, it is only a baby in the plant world. It will be a very tiny needle looking plant, hiding under and around all the other weeds & plants that may be present in the neighborhood. Bermudas when they first emerge look more like a weed than a grass. Check the picture link above to see what to look for. Seedling color is often brown / purplish.

Follow this link:
Planting Bermuda Grass Seed

Step 1 - Mow the lawn to a height of 1 to 2 inches.

Step 2 - Rake or sweep the lawn to remove heavy clippings or other debris. Rough the surface of the soil giving special attention to bare spots.

Step 3 - Apply LoveLand Golf Course Starteror Renovatorover the entire area.

Step 4 - Spread your favorite Grass Pad grass seedwith rotary or hand cranked "whirlwind" type spreader. Special attention should be given to spots where the ground is bare. Extra seed should be applied by hand to these spots.

Step 5 - On bare spots; apply a light mulch of sphagnum peat or PrimeraFC grass seed dressing. Topsoil, black peat or straw contain weed seeds and should not be used.

Step 6 - Water the seed bed lightly so the soil surface is moist. Continue watering lightly so the soil does not become hard or baked.

Step 7 - When the grass seedlings reach a height of 3 to 4 inches, mow to a heightof 3 inches with a sharp mower blade, at a time when the grass is not wet.

Step 8 - Mid-April (Tax Day) Apply Tupersan based crabgrass pre-emergent that is safe for new seeding.

Step 9 - Late May: Apply full strength Prevent crabgrass pre-emergent to all areas ONLY after those areas have filled in and mature enough to have been mowed at least twice.

Uncle's tip:Tupersanis a seed safe crabgrass pre-emergent. Tupersanis effective in reducing crabgrass germination. We call it the "smart bomb" pre emergent. Tupersan lets the good grass growand keeps the grassy weeds out of your lawn. However; Tupersan does not have a long residual in the soil, so for best results use an application of Tupersan at Tax Day and an application ofPreventaround Mother's Day to extend summer long crabgrass control.

Tips on Lawn Over Seeding in Early Spring

Read the original here:
Spring over seeding and weed control. - Grass Pad Inc.

Zoysias.com - An Informational Website From Seedland.com Zoysia Lawn Grass Seed Is Very Popular

Zoysia Grass has been traditionally grown from vegetative or hybrid (no seed) varieties. Now that the seeded versions of Zoysia Grass are available people are planting these quality seeded Zoysia varieties in droves. The seeded varieties of Zoysia Grass, such as the improved Zenith variety, are more economical and in many ways outperform the vegetative or sod varieties.

The newest of the seeded versions is the Zenith variety.

Here is a list of helpful links To help you plant and maintain your Zoysia Grass:

Below Photo of Compadre Zoysia lawnCoverage 93 days after planting*(Tennessee location). This is an example of possible results under ideal conditions. Click to see a pictorial guide from START TO FINISH in 3 months.

* IMPORTANT NOTE: Results may vary due to many site conditions, planting procedures and management & weather factors. Pictured is an ideal result from a customer planting seeds in which everything was done correctly. Results may vary in your case and establishment time may very well be longer.

BUY COMPADRE ZOYSIA SEED

Zoysia seed only needs 1/8 to 1/4 inch soil coverage as light is required to hit the seed to cause germination! The seeds must have light to germinate properly and only shallow planting will allow this to occur..

One improvement leads to another in the world of grassing and any added benefit of one over the other will be tested on lawns across the world. Zenith recently joined this lineup of grasses that can be planted from seed. Preliminary results indicate this grass is a winner, both with homeowners and commercial applications.

Ideal Seeding rates are 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. and 90 lbs. per acre. Heavier seeding rates produce better results especially with a slow starter like Zoysia.

Seedland recommends that you plant at the 2 LB. per 1000 square feet rate for best results.

Over seeding with cool season grasses such as ryegrass or tall fescue can give added green coverage through the cooler season and provides for a year round green coverage. --- However this is not recommended as it does present some problems unless you understand the spring transition maintenance requirements. The golden brown color offers a pleasant look without over seeding.

Reseeding to convert the current lawn variety to a newer variety may or may not work if you do not intend to kill out the existing stand. In fescue lawns there have been satisfactory results. In some lawn grasses, failure occurs from the shade problem of the existing grass. We always recommend that your first and best choice in trying to improve a lawn is to work on what you have by watering, fertilizing, and mowing properly. This will often work wonders on a problem lawn.

If You decide that a new lawn is what you want then, for best results you should eliminate all existing weeds and grasses by tilling. But many individuals do not want to go to the expense and aggravation of doing this.. You can apply a product such as Roundup to kill the existing grass.

If you don't want to kill the existing lawn cover, then cut the existing growth as close as possible if you are not going to kill the grass. Over seed heavily and water frequently for at least 10-20 days straight during warm weather and more frequently in really hot / dry weather. Then water every other day. Do not plant without irrigation. Fertilize lightly with a 10-10-10 (approximately 10 lbs per 1000 sq. ft.)

Reseeding to fill in bare spots or areas that for some reason or the other were damaged and killed is an excellent choice. Sprigging or plugging these areas will take the same amount of time to grow in as the plant from seed will and the same care will have to be given as to watering. The varieties from seed will mix in with the vegetative propagated ones.

SEEDING: READ PREPARATION BEFORE SEEDING READ MORE ON HOW TO PLANT ZOYSIA SEED.

Watering the soil immediately before and after seeding to hasten the germination process. Soil temps of 70 degrees+ are desirable for fastest germination. Some people find it easier to premix seeds with fine sand or finely grained starter fertilizer. (If you use fertilizer apply the mix immediately to prevent damage to the seed). This helps to assure an even coverage when well mixed and distributed with the spreader.. Seed using a drop-type or cyclone type spreader and uniformly broadcast onto a freshly prepared (moist, not dried out) seedbed.

Use at least one to two pounds of Non-coated Pure Zenith seed per 1,000 sq. ft.

The ideal planting rate with best results is found using 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. When planting coated seeds Increase to 2-3 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft

Higher rates of seed per 1000 sq. ft. can result in faster establishment. Some experts suggest 2 lbs per 1000 sq ft. For Best results, we do not recommend less than 2 lbs per 1000 sq. ft. as this rate has given the best results in trial we have observed. Zoysia is slow to establish under normal conditions (compared to cool season grasses), so the use of higher seeding rates is HIGHLY recommended.

For best results seed at 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. (3 lbs. on coated seed) -- Spread half of the seed in one direction and the other half in the opposite direction for an even coverage. Rake very lightly so that the seed are planted from 1/4 to 1/2 inch in depth. Ideally you should roll the area after planting with a lawn roller. You can rent this device from many local equipment rental firms. The seed and soil need firm contact with very little soil or mulch coverage to germinate properly.

When planted by PROFESSIONAL Grassing experts... You will see planting rates recommended as low as 1 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. IF you (Homeowner or professional) can correctly prepare the site, plant at correct depths, fertilize regular, mow regular and provide irrigation to the site it is possible to obtain a successful stand with 1 lb. per 1000 sq. ft. For homeowners we generally recommend seeding at the higher rate of 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft, because they rarely attend to the lawn on a daily basis.

Water as often as needed which might be two or three times daily to keep the surface constantly moist (not soaking) for the first 20-30 days until you see a fair amount of the little seedlings have sprouted. Thereafter, reduce watering frequency enough to keep good moisture within one inch of the surface. Most experts say you still will need to water your Zoysia planting every other day for 5-8 weeks gradually reducing the frequency. Water is a key factor in successful establishment of Zoysia. If you can't water daily, don't plant Zoysia. Fertilize lightly at the end of six weeks.

Many lawn owners wish to convert to Zenith by simply over seeding and this may or may not work satisfactorily. If you wish to try this method, then proceed by cutting the existing grass as close as possible (scalping if possible). Remove all thatch and clippings and roughing the soil as much as possible to get better contact of the seed to the soil. Start in spring and seed heavily to get as much seed as possible worked into the existing lawn soil. Water frequently for at least 10-20 consecutive days during warm weather. Keep the area mowed to prevent and minimize shading of the germinating seedlings.

A better method is to apply roundup prior to seeding. Make sure you apply according to the directions on the Roundup and wait for the proper time span. Killing your existing grass and weeds will allow you to plant without tearing up the soil. Of course the ideal method is to plant on weed free, tilled and smoothed soil.

DO NOT: Use any type of pre-emergence weed control or weed and feed fertilizer for at least 60 days before or after seeding ZENITH. After seeding do not use any weed control chemical that is not labeled and recommended for ZOYSIA grasses. It is best to avoid using any weed & feed fertilizers until you have mowed your lawn areas 5-6 times.

Zenith Zoysia grass is for the person who is tired of pampering bluegrasses and fescues. Once established it does not need petting. Mow and water if necessary and enjoy a beautiful outdoor carpet of your very own.

BUY YOUR ZOYSIA GRASS SEEDS FROM SEEDLAND.com

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How to Grow Zoysia Grass From Seed | Zoysias.com

Seedland has provided this informational site - Grassing.com -- to help you choose, plant and grow your own beautiful lawn grass from seeds. Read through the general grass seed information on the pages linked in the menu above to help you choose a grass seed species, determine when to plant your grass seed, prepare for your grassing project, as well as discover the various methods used to plant grass seed. To further assist you in determining the best grass seed for your needs, we have a state by state lawn grass guide at http://www.lawngrass.com. Our http://www.lawngrasses.com website is a step by step guide to help you choose the correct grass seed for your area based on climate. Then visit your specific lawn grass species page listed in our menus on the right under "Lawn Grass Informational Sites".

Here you can learn the basics of seeding lawns or rather planting grass seed. If you are wanting to sod a lawn, visit our sodding.com web site for great sodding turf grass tips. For a complete selection of grass seeds or grass plugs visit our online store at Seedland.com.

Helping make your lawn green and growing! -- Follow our step by step help on seeding your lawn:

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Grassing.com - How to Seed A Lawn|Grass Seeding Time ...

Early fall is the best time to seed grass throughout the northern part of the United States. SavaLawn, a leading provider of professional lawn care services, advises homeowners and property managers to take advantage of this opportunity to introduce new seed varieties to their lawn.

There are several questions you may want to consider when you decide on a lawn seeding service. Your lawn care professional can assist in evaluating the current conditions on your property and make recommendations to create the best program.

A lawn care professional can guide you through all of these variables and provide tips to help restore your existing lawn or establish a new lawn. Caring for your lawn with a professional maintenance program will keep your lawn healthy and attractive, adding continuous value to your property. Consider one of SavaLawns grass seeding services to help your lawn become the envy of the neighborhood. The professionals at SavaLawn, the lawn care division of SavATree, will perform a soil analysis, select the best seed for your landscape conditions and develop a comprehensive lawn care maintenance plan customized for your propertys needs. Optional natural lawn care programs are available to fit your preferences.

Planting new varieties can help protect a lawn from drought, disease, pests, excessive traffic and shade, so as a result they need less water and pest control. SavALawn only uses the best rated varieties. Based on these reviews, we've created our own premium grass seed blends which mostly include Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass and Tall Fescues.

Lawn services, accurately timed and performed by professionals will be conducted with the use of specialized equipment designed to maximize performance. The slice seeding equipment used on your lawn slices through the thatch and plants new grass seed directly into the soil, eliminating the need to till or strip.

Our lawn care professionals will assess your landscape and determine the specific needs of your lawn. You can be sure that the premium seed blend selected for your lawn will give you the best results for growing grass on your property.

Call SavaLawn today for a complimentary consultation from our fully trained and certified professionals for seeding, new lawn care and lawn service. Click here to contact the office nearest you.

SavATree offers a full range of tree, shrub and lawn services to the following locations:

Connecticut - Fairfield, Hartford, Litchfield, Middlesex, New Haven, New London, Tolland, Windham; Illinois - Cook, DuPage, Kane, Kendall, Lake, McHenry County, Will; Maryland - Montgomery, Prince George's; New Hampshire - Rockingham; Massachusetts - Barnstable, Bristol, Essex, Middlesex, Norfolk, Plymouth, Rockingham, Suffolk, Worcester; Minnesota - St. Paul, White Bear Lake, Still Water, Woodbury, Mendota Heights, Sunfish Lake, Twin Cities; New Jersey - Bergen, Burlington, Essex, Hunterdon, Mercer, Middlesex, Monmouth, Morris, Ocean, Passaic, Somerset, Sussex, Union; New York - Bronx, Brooklyn, Columbia, Dutchess, Manhattan, Nassau, New York, Orange, Putnam, Queens, Rockland, Suffolk, Ulster, Westchester; Pennsylvania - Berks, Bucks, Chester, Delaware, Hampshire, Monroe, Montgomery, Northampton, Philadelphia, York; Virginia - Alexandria, Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, Prince William; Washington, D.C.; Wisconsin - St. Croix.

Excerpt from:
Lawn Seeding Service | Grass Seeding | Slice & Slit Seeding

EASYSEED: The 1-2-3 Steps For Planting A Fescue Lawn

First: Decide if you will till the soil (So as to kill all the existing plants by plowing up your site!) or just plant within the existing grass. Also decide on the variety of Fescue grass to plant.

I will NOT TILL my site - I want to overseed my existing lawn.

You are not tilling the soil - and are planting seeds within the existing grass & weeds. This is called overseeding.

OVERSEEDING - Note: Fescue does thin out over time, so overseeding helps to thicken the turf to achieve higher plant density.

(1) Mow your lawn as close as possible and remove the excess clippings with an iron-rake that will also scratch your site soil, preparing a home for the seed.

(2) Next if at all possible AERATE your lawn with a spike aerator. Planting without aerating does not allow good soil contact of your fescue seed. Aerate by traveling first North to South and then East to West (two trips across lawn). Then sow (broadcast) your Fescue seeds on the area to be planted generally in the early fall (Aug - Sept) for your best results. Fescue may also be seeded in the Spring (before May). Some people say they find overseeding both spring and fall works best for them.

However you may also seed in late fall at the same time you use a cover crop such as ryegrass. The fescue seed will start germinating the following spring provided that snow and/or low temperature conditions have protected the seeds until spring germination. Timing is important depending of if you are in a more Northern cool-season area or in the transition zone.

(3) After you have broadcast your seed, you should aerate a third time. This last time helps to provide soil coverage of your seeds.

You may also Roll the area sowed with a hand roller so that the seed that you sowed, which fell into the soil scratches made with the rake, will become firmly packed with the soil. Fescue seed require firm soil contact for best germination. They also need a thin soil covering to germinate (1/4 inch ideal) - They are not likely to germinate when thrown out on top of the ground, unless a mulch covering or top soil is applied. Use the correct rate of seed for Fescue lawns.

(4) Follow your normal water, fertilizing and mowing practices for the area you have planted on a regular basis. That's all! Eventually you will have an improved, more lush and thick Fescue grass lawn. Generally you should water daily after planting until germination occurs, then continue on a more normal cycle. - http://www.lawnirrigation.com

Keep in mind that if overseeding a NEW lawn you need to create a good firm seedbed (soil) for your seedlings to grown in. Using a tiller is the best preparatory method. A second method is to use a rake to loosen the soil and make for better germination of your grass seed.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

Planting a new lawn on correctly prepared and tilled soil.

(1) Till the area to be planted so as to provide for a good seed bed (fine, loose soil) with little soil compaction. Early fall is the best time to start this activity for Fescue. The tilling can be done with either a garden roto-tiller or a tractor harrow/tiller (Or even a shovel if you have a good back!). Once the area is properly returned to soil, level the ground by raking or dragging something over the surface until it is smooth and level. Now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice smooth lawn.

(2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turf grass planter, slit seeder, or sow the seeds by hand, or just as easy and much preferred, buy a lawn grass seeder. Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area, so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is ideal covering). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding Fescue grass. With new lawns a light covering of straw / hay can be spread over the planted area - This will help germination by reducing water evaporation and provide better conditions for germination.

EROSION CONTROL - Used straw will also help some with erosion issues - Vertical blade aerators can help push some of the straw into the soil to provide better erosion control. OR use a seed mat to cover the planted area and staple the mat in place. Third option in erosion prone areas is to hire a local hydro seeder to spray / plant your erosion areas.

(3) Water the area you have planted daily until germination occurs (unless rainfall occurs). Then water as needed. Apply fertilizer in intervals through the growing season, and practice a regular mowing schedule. Mowing the weeds that will grow in your new lawn area faster than the grass, allows the grass to compete better for scarce nutrients and sunlight. - Mow regular and at the correct height.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower, around 25 to 30 lbs of tall fescue seed per acre. Please follow the correct planting rates for your particular tall fescue seed and planting situation. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

A good final finish to planting a Fescue lawn is to roll your planted lawn area with a hand roller. You can rent these implements from rental stores in your area. This compacts the soil around the seed, creating a more favorable environment for Fescue seed germination. Fescue seed do not germinate well in fluffy soil, so this is an important step. The rolling also smoothes the soil providing for a more level uniform lawn.

Bluegrass seed can be planted using the same basic seeding techniques as for Fescue. Also read about Ryegrass for cool season areas. Both of these grasses are often used in mixtures with Fescue to provide a more quality turf lawn in the Northern lawn areas.

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How to Seed a Fescue Grass Lawn or Pasture|Step-by-Step ...