Planting (or seeding) a lawn is not difficult and can be done successfully by anyone. If you are planting grass seed, follow these five simple steps for best results.

A great lawn can only be grown from great grass seeds. To find a top quality grass seed, look for an NTEP rated variety, which means it has been independently evaluated and rated by the National Turf Evaluation Program, (NTEP). The NTEP rating on grass seeds means you are purchasing grass seeds that have been specifically bred for superior green grass color, disease and insect resistance and drought tolerance.

The price of grass seed is small compared to the time that will be invested in building a great lawn. To get the best lawn results you need the best grass seed.

Get GreenView Fairway Formula top rated NTEP grass seed today

For planting new lawns:

For overseeding an existing lawn:

Grass seed can be planted in the spring and fall with good results. If you are planning a spring planting of grass seed, do not apply weed control products to the grass. Delay the weed control application until the grass seed has germinated and you have mowed the grass at least 3 times.

For a fall planting of grass seed, follow the same weed control precautions and time the seed planting to allow the grass seed to fully germinate before freezing temperatures arrive in your region.

Learn more about:NTEP and grass seed ratings Selecting a cool season grass Selecting a warm season grass How to read a grass seed label

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How to Plant Grass Seed GreenView Fertilizer

As with most landscaping projects, preparation is the most critical part of seeding a lawn. The condition of the soil has to be ideal to coax the tiny grass seeds into germinating. That means using well-turned earth with proper drainage and the right chemistry.

To get these conditions, you first need to remove any vestiges of the old lawn. Renting a sod cutter for about $75 to $100 a day allows you to slice off old grass and weeds at the roots. Then it's time to turn the soil with a rotary tiller, adding sand and compost in successive layers to achieve an ideal mix.

But even with these additions, no soil is ready for seeds if it doesn't have the right pH. The pH scale measures acidity and alkalinity, denoted by numbers from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Grass grows best in soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. If your soil is too acidic (below 6.0)a common problem in cooler wet climates like the Northwest and Northeastyou can add lime to bring it up. If it's mildly alkaline (7.5 to 8.0), a little peat moss, which is naturally acidic, should correct it. Soil that is very alkaline (more than 8.0), which is more likely to exist in dry, hot climates, needs sulfur.

All soil could use a little fertilizer boost to nourish the seeds. Then once the soil is ready, the actual planting is cake. Just throw out the right amount of seeds, gently rake them into the turned earth, and make sure they get enough water to keep on growing.

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How to Seed a Lawn | This Old House

Planting grass seed is an economical and satisfying way to expand the green space around your home or improve your existing lawn. In order to enjoy successful grass establishment and all the benefits seeding offers, follow these eight steps to grow a lush, inviting green lawn:

The time of year you plant grass seed has a direct effect on its success. Proper timing helps ensure your grass seed will germinate properly, grow quickly and remain healthy while new seedlings become established.

The best time to plant grass seed varies according to your grass growing region and the type of grass you grow. Lawns across the northern tier of the United States typically consist of cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue or perennial ryegrass. Planting during cool weather in fall and spring coincides with the most active growth periods for these grass types.

In Massachusetts, for example, early fall is the ideal time to plant grass seed.1 At this time, the ground is still warm enough to aid germination, but the days are cool and sometimes rainy. This combination helps ensure newly planted seeds don't dry out. There's also sufficient daylight in early fall to allow new grass to thrive and become established before winter's arrival.

Spring seeding is your second best option for planting cool-season grasses. Aim to seed early in the season, but wait until daytime temperatures are in the 60 to 75 degree Fahrenheit range. This roughly corresponds to the optimal soil temperatures for cool-season grass seed germination. Spring sunshine and rain both contribute to strong grass growth.

For lawns across the southern half of the U.S., warm-season lawn grasses such as Bermudagrass, Zoysia grass, Bahiagrass and Centipede grass are the rule. These grasses are best planted during their optimal growth period, which falls in spring and early summer instead of fall. Wait to plant warm-season grasses until daytime temperatures stay near 80 F or higher and all danger of a late spring frost in your area has passed.

If you intend to replace the entire lawn, it's important to do a thorough job of removing the old turf. Use a sod cutter to take out the old grass at the roots. Another option for clearing the area is to spray the lawn with a non-selective herbicide, which kills both grass and broadleaf plants. If you choose to spray, follow label instructions for your product closely and avoid any contact with grass or plants you want to keep.

After the product's designated waiting period, reapply as needed to kill any remaining grass. Once you're certain that the turf you want to replace is dead, clear the dead grass from the site and make any needed adjustments to the grade to prepare for seeding.

Optimum soil conditions boost successful seed germination and support healthy turf growth. To prepare your soil for planting, do the following:

To succeed at growing a healthy lawn, it's important to buy quality grass seed that is well-suited to your climate and your growing conditions. Premium, purebred Pennington Smart Seed grasses are water-conserving, drought-resistant and developed for superior performance in home lawns.

Whether you grow warm-season or cool-season grasses depends primarily on where you live. Warm-season lawn grasses are best suited to southern climates and grow most vigorously during the warm months of the year. They typically go dormant and brown in the winter. Cool-season grasses are typically used in northern and transition zone lawns, growing best where summers are moderate and winters are cold. They remain green all year, but can go brown and dormant in heat and drought.

In many areas of the country, you can opt for a mix of seed specific to your region. Smart Seed mixes are designed for lawns in the Midwest, Northeast, Pacific Northwest and Pennsylvania State. If you're growing lawn grass in shade, choose a grass seed product such as Pennington Smart Seed Dense Shade, which is formulated especially for challenging low-light conditions. For lawns with variable shade and sun, Pennington Smart Seed Sun & Shade provides the solution you need.

Choosing the right type of spreader for your situation helps you get the results you need. A drop spreader drops seed straight down in a path the width of your spreader as you move across your lawn. This type of spreader maneuvers well in tight spaces and is ideal for small lawns (less than 5,000 sq. ft.), which typically require more precision in where the seed lands.

A broadcast or rotary spreader comes in walk-behind and hand-held types that spread seed by fanning it out in all directions, providing more uniform coverage. These spreaders are ideal for large lawns, but they lack the precision drop spreaders provide.

Once you finish spreading the seed, use a rake to lightly work it into the soil at a depth of about 1/4 inch. Don't bury the seeds any deeper; grass seed needs adequate light to germinate quickly. After raking, pass over the area with a roller, which helps ensure the good seed-to-soil contact your new seed needs.

Overseeding is the process of planting grass seed into an existing lawn. This is done to improve your lawn's overall look and health, thicken your grass, minimize weeds, fill in bare or damaged areas, or convert to another type of lawn grass. Also, southern lawns are often overseeded with a cool-season grass to provide green color during winter months. When overseeding, broadcast the seed over the lawn, and water it in well, following the same instructions as for new lawns.

Keeping grass seeds and seedlings constantly moist but not soggy is critical to successful grass-seeding efforts. Water newly seeded areas two to three times a day with a light spray to keep the seeds moist. Stop watering when puddles begin to appear on the soil surface. Once the seeds germinate and grass seedlings begin to grow, gradually transition to watering less frequently but more heavily. Taper off watering as the grass becomes taller and more mature.

Depending on the type of grass you're growing, germination may take anywhere from five to 21 days. Expect your new grass to take another four to 10 weeks to root well and become established. It will take a full season for most grasses to mature to the point where they're ready for steady foot traffic.

Once your new seedlings reach about 1 inch in height, examine the newly seeded area for any bare spots or places you may have missed. Reseed the bare areas, and repeat the process as needed until new seedlings are thick and you're satisfied with the results.

Once your grass reaches 3 inches high, it's ready to withstand mowing. Always follow best practices for mowing lawns, including the recommended mowing heights for your type of grass. Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing or you can stress your grass and invite lawn disease, problem weeds and weak growth. With fall-planted cool-season lawns, your first mowing may need to wait until the following spring.

During the first season of establishment, young grass is still tender, so avoid as much foot traffic as possible. Keep your grass growing strong with regular maintenance, including irrigation. Water as needed to supplement rainfall so your lawn receives about 1 inch of water per week under normal conditions.

Begin fertilizingcool-season lawns four to eight weeks after seed germination, but never later than November. For warm-season grasses, wait until the following spring to feed your new lawn. After initial feedings, you might need to fertilize up to four times a year, according to your soil test recommendations. Retest the soil every three to four years, and adjust accordingly.

By choosing the best grass for your region and your lawn's conditions and following these simple guidelines planting grass seed is a straightforward project that will transform for your yard.Penningtonis dedicated to providing you with theresourcesandpremium productsyou need to grow lush, beautiful turf. You and your family and friends can enjoy all thebenefits of a beautiful, natural lawn.

Total Time Required to Transform Your Lawn:6-12 weeks, depending on the region, weather and grass type.

How hard you'll have to work on a scale of 1-4:3 (a little work goes a long wayespecially during the prep phase)

Time breakdown:

Pennington and Smart Seed are registered trademarks of Pennington Seed, Inc.

1. University of Massachusetts Amherst, Lawn Renovation and Overseeding."

2. Ricigliano, D., "Lawn Establishment, Renovation and Overseeding," University of Maryland Extension, 2016.

3. Nathan, M. and Fresenburg, B., "Soil Testing for Lawns," University of Missouri Extension, June 2008.

4. Grande, J., "Seeding Your Lawn," Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, February 2004.

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How to Plant Grass Seed - Pennington.com

Growing From Seed

Growing a lawn from seed offers an affordable option, especially for smaller lawns. Success hinges on selecting the best grass seed for your situation. Turfgrass breeders make advances every year, so its worthwhile to do some research to discover available options. Local grass seed vendors typically carry tried-and-true seed types. You can find newer seed types at a nursery or landscaping business that specializes in lawn installation. Always buy top-quality seed. Its worth the investment.

Before spending any money on grass seed, test your soil. You can select the ideal grass seed and still grow a lackluster lawn if your soil pH is incorrect. Most turf grasses thrive in well-aerated soil with a slightly acidic pH (between 6 and 7.5). Obtain a soil test kit from your local extension office. To take a soil test, gather soil samples from several places around the area youll be seeding. Mix the soil, and place it into the soil testing bag. Expect to pay at least $15 for the test (price varies by region). It takes about two weeks to get results back, and it will take more time to adjust soil as specified by the results. Plan accordingly: dont do your soil test the day before you plan to seed.

Grass falls into two general categories: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses are the ones that grow in warmer regions of the country. These include grasses like St. Augustine, Bermuda, buffalo, centipede and zoysia. Warm-season grasses achieve their peak growth when summer hits its stride. These grasses typically require full sun to thrive, although St. Augustine can tolerate some shade in the Deep South.

Cool-season grasses are the ones that grow in northern regions of the country. Fine, tall and red fescues, perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass are cool-season grasses. This type of turf grows the most during the cool seasons of spring and fall. Cool-season grasses tend to be more shade-tolerant, especially the fescues. One key factor in choosing the right grass seed simply depends on where you live. You dont want to plant warm-season turf in Vermont or fine fescue in South Texas.

Its important to consider how much wear and tear your lawn will experience as you select a grass seed. If you have a family with young children who enjoy a summer pool and running on the lawn, opt for a grass other than fine fescue, which doesnt stand up to foot traffic. Kentucky bluegrass is the turf of choice for athletic fields, and its also self-mending. When damage causes bare spots, the turf can creep in to fill in holes. However, Kentucky bluegrass can be more demanding in terms of care, needing more mowing, fertilizing and watering to look its best.

Consider irrigation needs when you choose your grass seed. If you live in a region subject to droughts and water restrictions, select a grass like tall fescue, zoysia or buffalo grass. Floratam is the St. Augustine variety thats the most drought-tolerant, but it does require some shade. If you plant Kentucky bluegrass, you will need to water regularly to maintain a healthy lawn.

Some cool-season turf types go dormant during summer, while warm-season zoysia enters dormancy during the years chilliest months. Some municipalities now require home builders to install lawns with summer-dormancy capabilities. If you choose turf that needs watering to look its best, consider adding an irrigation system before seeding, especially if soil is bare. Its better to dig up the yard before grass is growing. Consider what your lawn will look like in winter as you select seed. While you can remedy a winter-dormant lawn by overseeding with ryegrass, you might want to consider taking a break from lawn care.

Different types of grasses tolerate differing levels of shade. By far, most grasses crave sun and need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Specialized shade-tolerant grass blends thrive in four hours of dappled sun or partial shade. In the cool-season grass category, the shade-tolerant grasses are rye and fine and tall fescues. Warm-season grasses that grow in shade include zoysia and St. Augustine. A quality seed blend for a shady lawn should include several different types of shade-tolerant grasses. That way, if one grass fails to succeed, theres another to take its place.

When youre seeding a sloping area of your yard, choose a seed blend that includes a high percentage of perennial ryegrass. This grass is quick to germinate and establish. Its fast-growing root system will reduce erosion while other turf types in the seed blend establish. Avoid purchasing a seed blend with more than 20 percent perennial ryegrass, or it may overpower the other grasses in the mix. A blend is always better, because it effectively hedges your seeding bets.

Consider lawn maintenance when you select grass seed. Grasses like fescues have higher ideal growing heights and dont need mowing as often as a Kentucky bluegrass lawn. Among warm-season turf, youll typically mow centipede and Bermuda grass more frequently than zoysia. Native grasses like buffalo grass require the lowest amount of mowing. Turf that goes dormant in summer heat or winter chill also demands less mowing during periods of dormancy. Factor all of these considerations into your selection of a specific grass seed.

Research to be sure you understand the fertility needs of the turf type you intend to grow. If youre someone who likes to pursue organic fertilizing with compost and other earth-friendly brews, make sure the grass you select responds well to that type of fertilizer program. Some turf requires more frequent fertilization. Do your homework to be certain youre not planting a high-maintenance lawn when you only have time to grow a low-maintenance one. Ultimately, no matter what type of grass seed you buy, the label should show weed seed content less than 1 percent and inert material content less than 4 percent. Never buy grass seed with a germination rate less than 70 percent.

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How to Choose the Right Grass Seed | DIY

Popular Types Of Grass Seed

There is a wide range of grass varieties, but there are just two basic categories of grass types: Warm Season grasses and Cool Season grasses. As you might imagine, all of the different varieties in each of these grass types is best suited for a certain type of climate.

Warm Season grasses are generally native to tropical regions and thrive when they are in hot climates with a lot of daily sunshine. They tend to grow best in temperatures ranging from 75F to 90F and will often turn brown or go dormant in the cooler late-fall and winter months.

The majority of the growing of Warm Season grasses happens in the summer months. Some examples of popular Warm Season grass varieties include St. Augustine grass, Buffalo, Bermuda, and Centipede.

Cool Season grasses do well in areas that have cold, freezing winters and very hot summers. They grow the fastest when temperatures are from 65F to 80F, or during in the spring and fall months.

While Cool Season grasses are suited to climates that have regular intervals of rain in the summer, many of them can withstand long periods of drought by going dormant. Some popular examples of Cool Season grasses include Perennial and Annual Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Red Fescue, and Bentgrass.

You can start you search for the best grass seed for your lawn by learning which type of climate you live in. If you are in the Warm Season zone, you should be researching the different varieties of Warm Season grasses and vice versa for the Cool Season zone.

Each grass variety has certain applications where it does best. For example, Bahia grass and Buffalo grass are both Warm Season grasses, but they have different characteristics. Bahia grass does best in full sun conditions and in areas with sandy, slightly acidic soil. It needs regular watering, but is relatively resistant to short periods of drought and is ideal for high activity areas.

Unfortunately, while being an extremely hardy grass, it doesn't create a very uniform lawn and it doesn't handle the cold very well. On the other hand, Buffalo grass has a smoother, more manicured look and can withstand near freezing temperatures for short periods. It can also survive through extended drought periods, but doesn't do well in high activity areas.

To choose the best grass variety for your home, start by testing the pH of your soil. You can adjust your soil pH as needed, but why not choose a grass variety that does well in your soil type and skip the hassle? Next you should consider how much maintenance you want to put into lawn care. If you don't want to deal with regular waterings, go with a variety that is drought resistant.

If you don't want to have to mow so often, choose a slower growing variety. You'll also want to consider how much traffic you'll be subjecting your lawn to. Some grass varieties can deal with cars being parked on them regularly, while others can't even withstand minor foot traffic.

Not everybody lives in a Cool Season or Warm Season grass climate. There is a narrow band across America known as the Transition Zone and picking the right grass variety in these areas can be trickier. If you live in the Transition Zone, you'll want to consider Kentucky Bluegrass, Zoysiagrass, Thermal Blue, Perennial Ryegrass, or Tall Fescue.

Creating the perfect lawn isn't just about picking the right variety. You'll also need to maintain it correctly and plant at the right time of year. A general rule of thumb is that Warm Season grasses should be planted from March through September, and Cool Season grasses should be planted from mid-August through mid-October, but refer to the directions on your specific grass variety to further narrow down the best seeding time.

You need to make sure to prepare your lawn before laying down your seed as well. If you are planting a new lawn, start by loosening the top few inches of soil with a cultivator or hoe. Next, remove large debris and break up any big clumps of soil. If you have any low spots where water might collect, you should level them out, so no grass seed is left in standing water for too long.

After your lawn has been fully prepared, you can spread your grass seed. For best results, you should fertilize with a starter fertilizer after seeding and then water twice a day. Once you have mowed your new lawn one or two times, you can revert back to a normal watering schedule.

If you are overseeding an existing lawn, you'll want to mow your grass as short as possible, loosen any bare soil spots, remove dead grass clumps, and then spread the seed as evenly as possible. As with a new lawn planting, you should water twice a day until after the first or second mowing and lay down a starter fertilizer.

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The 7 Best Grass Seed - Ezvid Wiki: The World's Video Wiki

Why Overseed?

Over-seeding is the practice of spreading new seed over an established turf. Bermuda, zoysia, and other warm-season grasses go dormant and turn brown during the colder winter weather. Over-seeding your lawn with a cool-season grass gives you a green lawn throughout the entire year.

When over-seeding, you are actually seeding into the existing warm-season turf. Rye grasses are well suited for this purpose and more specifically perennial ryegrass is highly recommended.Over-seeding just before the warm-season grasses go dormant ensures that youll enjoy green grass throughout the winter months. Good fall establishment will require some seed bed preparation, but tilling should be minimal enough to let the warm-season grass recover well in the following spring.

St. Augustine and zoysia grasses are not well suited for over-seeding. However, lawns featuring bermuda grass are easily over-seeded, producing a green landscape year-long.

The best time to over-seed your lawn with cool-season grasses will occur between October 1st and November 15th. Over-seeding too early in the fall can result in thin, spotty establishment; the actively growing bermuda grass will out-compete the ryegrass. If planted too late, growth is slowed down by colder temperatures resulting in poor establishment.

Ryegrass seed germination will decline after soil temperatures start to move below 63 F. You can stick a cooking thermometer into the ground to determine the temperature. Make holes with a screwdriver to take the temperature in multiple areas of your lawn.

Verti-cut, power rake, and mow your bermuda grass as low as possible to remove or reduce thatch. If you can only mow, lower your mower blades as far as they will go. You essentially want to scalp the grass down as much as possible. This will guarantee good seed contact with the soil. Planting your ryegrass seed is done just like planting grass for a new lawn. Apply grass seed using a spreader or seeder. Apply only 1/2 of the seed in one direction, and then apply the other 1/2 of the seed in the other direction. This method insures an evenly covered seed bed.

If over-seeding with annual ryegrass, plant 10 to 20 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet. If using perennial ryegrass (recommended), plant 10 to 15 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet. Over-eeding more than this may cause excessive competition among seedlings. Crowded seedlings will be more susceptible to diseases.

After seeds are planted, they must stay moist to germinate properly. Covering the seeds with finely-ground bark mulch, manure compost, or sand which will help hold the moisture in; this practice is known as top-dressing. Do not use peat moss because it is difficult to keep wet and can blow away.

Light, frequent watering (up to three times a day) is essential during the first seven to ten days. Keep the soil moist until the seedlings have established their roots.Germinating seeds need a lot of oxygen so dont overwater and cause flooding.

Water the newly-planted seed for about 15 minutes to get the grass seed and soil soaked well the first time. Continue watering three times daily for 3 to 7 minutes each for the first 7 to 10 days. If your soil drains well, you may water for longer but if your soil is heavy and doesnt drain well, prevent puddling by shortening your watering time. Once germinated, grass seed watering intervals should gradually shift to about once each week. During the coldest times of the season, you may only need to water once every two weeks.

Monitor the soil moisture by sticking a screwdriver into the soil. If the screw driver goes in easily and comes out damp, you dont need to add water. You want to keep the top six inches of soil moist; when your grass needs water, it will let you know. Symptoms of moisture stress are wilting, grey-green color and footprint indents remaining visible long after stepping over lawn.

Two weeks after seedlings emerge, apply a high-phosphorus grass fertilizer, which will promote good root development. There are many starter fertilizers that you can choose; one example is ammonium phosphate (16-20-0), which you would apply at about 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Annual and perennial ryegrass should be first mowed when they reach heights between 2 -inches and 3 inches. If using a rotary mower, set the blade height between 2 -inches and 2 -inches. If using a reel-type mower, mow your lawn between 1 and 1 -inches, when grass is a third of the normal mowing height.

Bermuda and most warm-season grasses start growing back when nighttime temperatures reach the upper 60s. To encourage the return of your bermuda grass, lower the mowing height to an inch or less once the nights become warmer. This will effectively scalp the cool-season grass, reducing shade and warming the bermuda grass beneath. At this point, stop fertilizing, but continue mowing low and maintaining good soil moisture for your grass. This will reduce competition between the bermuda and the ryegrass, helping your bermuda grass come back strong.

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Over-seeding Grass - PLANTING GRASS SEED CENTER

Why should I overseed my lawn?

Overseeding is the planting of grass seed over an existing lawn. Overseeding corrects thin lawns, or prevents thinning, by compensating for the natural slowdown of the turfs reproduction or turfgrass death from environmental stresses.Overseeding introduces new and improved turfgrass varieties into your lawn that out compete weeds and fill in bare spots. By doing this, the lawn stays healthy and you seldom have to start over.

The best time for overseeding is late summer to early fall. Weeds are less active at this time so the seed will germinate better, temperatures are cooler, the ground is warm and you have great growing months ahead.

How do I begin?

Choose the proper Jonathan Green grass seed for the growing conditions of your lawn. We recommend using Black Beautygrass seed mixtures when seeding for their beautiful dark green look, drought tolerance, along with its disease and insect resistance.

Test your soil pH to see if Mag-I-Cal is needed, ideally your lawn should have a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Then, check your lawn for soil compaction and overall soil health, to determine how muchLove Your Soilis needed. To test for soil compaction, push ascrew driver into the soil. If this proves difficult, your soil is compacted. If your soil has clay, sand, is light in color, or has a dusty composition it is missing essential microbes and Love Your Soil could be appliedeither once or twice a year, between the months of May and early September, depending on its severity.

If the lawn has not been mowed, do so before raking the ground to loosen the soil. While raking, remove dead grass, stones, sticks, etc. from the lawn area. In the case of larger areas, use of a rented, motorized, thatching machine can be helpful in the establishment of a seed bed.

Apply Winter Survival or Green-Up for Seeding and Soddingand soil foods,such as Mag-I-Cal and/or Love Your Soil.These products can be applied the same day as the seed.

If following our organic program, apply Mag-I-Calfor Acidic Soil or Mag-I-Cal for Alkaline Soil, along with our Organic Lawn Foodif it has been over 2 months since your last lawn fertilization.These products can also all be applied on the same day as the grass seed.

How do Iaccurately apply grass seed?

Apply seed at the proper rate,preferably with a spreader. For proper application seethe back of all product bags, or our spreader settings website,for accurate rates and settings.For maximum germination, please be sure that the grass seed is in firm contact with the loosened soil. Grass seed should be raked lightly so it is covered by 1/4 inch of soil.

How often should I water?

The seed bed should be kept moist for a few weeks while the grass seed is germinating. Light waterings,2 to 3 times a day,are of benefit during the early days when the newly seeded area is establishing. Within a few weeks, after the newly seeded grass needs to be mowed, you can decrease your watering schedule.

Is it possible to seed too heavy?

All plants need ample space for roots to spread. By spreading your grass seed too thickly on the ground, roots have to compete with each other to grow. Some seeds push through quickly and others fail to grow a deep root structure at all. As a result, you have a patchy lawn that still struggles as the seedlings fight for nutrients.

When will my grass seed sprout?

Perennial Ryegrass germinates the quickest, sometimes in 5 days, however it usually takes 10-14 days. Fine fescues including the creeping, chewing, and hard types usually take about 10-20 days. Tall Fescue usually takes 10-20 days but can be slow to establish under colder temperatures. Kentucky Bluegrass is the slowest to germinate, usually in 14-30 days and longer with cold temperatures. Remember, germinate means start to grow. You cannot expect a filled in lawn in 10 days!

Mow the new grass once it reaches 4 high. Keep the mowing height at 3 except for the last cut of the year which should be 2 inches in height. This is very important for your lawn during the winter months. The shorter mowing height helps the grass plant roots survive winter stress.

More here:
Seeding Guide | Jonathan Green

Seeding a New Lawn

Using seed is the most common method of planting turfgrass. Whether you have an established lawn or you are starting a new one, the basic principles are the same.

1. Dig or till to a 3-inch depth.

2. Rake to remove clumps and clods.

3. Smooth and level the surface. Remember, you are establishing a finished grade so include any contours needed for drainage.

4. Add compost, topsoil and starter fertilizer and work them into the soil.

5. Roll with a weighted lawn roller.

6. Spread the seed. To ensure even coverage, sow half of the seed in one direction and the other half at a right angle.

7. Rake and roll again.

8. Mulch with a weed-free straw, such as wheat straw. As an alternative, you can use a seed starter mat or seed blanket to help keep the seed and loose soil from washing or blowing away.

9. Water frequently to keep the seeds moist (don't saturate). Cut watering back to once a day when the grass reaches about 1 inch in height.

10. Mow when the grass reaches 2 1/2 inches - 3 inches.

11. After it's been mowed three times, use a regular watering schedule of 1 inch per week.

12. Apply a pre-emergent crabgrass control to stop germination of unwanted grass.

Overseeding an Existing Lawn

To fill out an otherwise healthy lawn or to add extra green for the winter months, you can overseed:

1. Mow lower than usual.

2. Dethatch if needed or rake to thin the existing turf.

3. Aerate to reduce soil compaction.

4. Amend with compost.

5. Add starter fertilizer.

6. Apply seed.

7. Rake in loosely.

8. Top-dress with mulch, compost or peat moss.

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Seed Your Lawn: How and When to Plant Grass Seed

By Lance Walheim, The National Gardening Association

Starting a lawn from seed is the least expensive way to transform your home or garden with a new lawn. Find information and step-by-step instructions on how to turn grass seed into a lush, beautiful lawn.

The best time to start lawns from seed, or by any means, is just prior to the grasss season of most vigorous growth.

First, you need to determine the type of grass that grows best in your climate whether you need cool-season or warm-season grass. Think of cool-season and warm-season grasses as the yin and yang of the turf world. Or better yet, when you think of cool season grasses, envision blue spruce. When you think of warm-season grasses, envision palm trees. Get the picture?

For cool-season grasses (which grow best in fall, spring, and, in some areas, winter), the best time to plant is late summer to early fall. At that time of year, the ground is still warm enough for quick germination, and the young grass plants have the entire upcoming cool season to become established.

Early spring is the second-best time to start a cool-season lawn from seed. The young grass has less time to become established before the onset of hot weather, but results are usually satisfactory as long as you start seeding early enough.

Warm-season grasses are best planted in late spring. At that time, the weather is still mild enough to let you get the grass established, but the hot weather of summer and the most vigorous growth are just around the corner.

The soil is ready, the site is level, and the watering system is in place now you can plant the seed.

Spread the seed.

Make sure that you properly set your spreader rate for sowing seed. (You can check the manufacturers instructions, but many times, the spreader has the necessary information printed on it.) Put half the grass seed in the spreader. Spread the first half of the seed by walking in one direction and then spread the second half crisscross to the first direction. This pattern ensures even coverage.

Dont forget to use a starter fertilizer. Starter fertilizers are high in the nutrient phosphorous, which is essential to seedlings.

Top-dress the seed to hold moisture.

Open the door of a peat spreader (or cage roller) and fill it with peat moss or other fine-textured organic matter. You may end up spilling some, so dont do this on the lawn surface; otherwise, you have to clean up the mess, disturbing the seedbed as you do.

Briskly push the cage roller back and forth over the lawn until you cover the entire area. Apply a very thin layer, 1/8- to 1/4-inch of mulch, no more. Adjust your speed until the roller applies about the right amount.

If you live in a windy area where the peat moss blows around or if youre trying to save a dime, you can lightly rake the seedbed instead of mulching. Use a stiff metal rake and just lightly push and pull the tines back and forth to make shallow grooves and cover the seed. Dont push too hard, or youll move the seed around or cover it too deeply.

Roll the surface.

To ensure good contact between seed and soil, roll the entire area with a roller that youve filled only halfway with water. Roll the perimeter first and then finish the entire area.

Water.

This may be the most important step. With the first watering, make sure that you apply enough water to wet the soil down to at least 6 to 8 inches. Apply the water gently so that you dont wash the seed away or create puddles.

You may have to water several times in short intervals until the bed is thoroughly wet. After that, water often enough to keep the top inch or so of the seedbed moist until the seed germinates. Remember, seeds get only one shot at germination. Let them dry out, and theyre dead.

Sprinkle the seedbed lightly with a handheld hose several times a day especially if its hot or windy to get even germination across the entire lawn. However, you dont want to overdo it. Too much water causes the seed to rot.

Watch the color of the soil surface. As the soil dries, the surface becomes lighter in color. When you notice about half to two-thirds of the surface lightening up, its about time to water.

Protect the seedbed.

Here comes the neighbors dog! Oh, no, what a muddy mess. To keep kids, pets, or whatever off your newly seeded, very wet lawn, encircle it with brightly colored string attached to small stakes.

However, that may not be enough for the dog. If the lawn is small, you can surround the whole area with some roll-out metal fencing available at hardware stores or at least tell the neighbor to keep her dog in her own yard.

As your new lawn becomes established, you can start easing up on the water, depending on the weather. If you continue your everyday watering routine, youre likely to overdo it and rot the young seedlings. Also, if the ground is too wet, you can inhibit root growth.

When you have a pretty even ground cover of new seedlings, try skipping a day of watering and see what happens. Watch the grass carefully. If the color starts to go from bright green to dull gray green, the grass needs water. You may have to water some quick-to-dry areas with a handheld hose.

If the grass doesnt dry out, keep stretching the intervals between watering until youre on a schedule of once or twice a week, or as needed. When you do water, dont forget to water deeply, getting the moisture down 6 to 8 inches. Dont be a light-sprinkling fool you end up with one lousy lawn.

But theres more to a new lawn than just watering. You need to mow the new lawn when it reaches 3 to 4 inches high, depending on the type of grass. Mow when the soil is on the dry side; otherwise, you might tear up the new turf.

You also need to make your first application of fertilizer about 4 to 6 weeks after germination. Young seedlings have a hefty appetite, so dont skip this important feeding. (After you have your grass growing, Keeping an Eco-Friendly Lawn can help you keep both the lawn and the environment healthy.)

See the rest here:
Planting a New Lawn from Seed - dummies

BISMARCK, N.D. - For the next five or six weeks its the very best time to seed a new lawn, or repair an old lawn that might be thin.

And when you think about it grasses and nature are seeding themselves now.

What you want to do first is loosen up the seed bed.Whether you scrap it up with a rack or use a roto tiller and go very thin.

Then we want you to put the grass seed on in two different directions so you get good coverage and maybe take a third trip on over and put fertilizer on at the half a dose rate. Now we got you losing it up putting the grass seed on.Putting the fertilizer on then we want you to roll it. Roll it with one of these rollers, and it will help firm it up so it wont blow away and the birds wont get the grass very much.

If you have a lot of steep slopes some people use this netting with this straw or burlap blanket with the spun wood or they might use burlap to fix hard to grow patches.

Theres lots of kinds of grass seed but some are good for sun some are good.

For the shade and some are good are what we call low maintenance rural grasses.

If you might have to spray to kill some weeds first like with Round Up. But if you do, you can seed the very next day. So go to our website if you want all of this in writing. Cashman.nursey.com or stop out we have a great hand out so until next week Good gardening.

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Dan's Garden: Seeding your lawn - KFYR-TV