If you live in certain parts of the country--southern California for example--a green lawn year-round is no big deal. For other parts of the country, it's a little more challenging. Year-round green in Minnesota?

If you live far enough south that you have a warm-season grass, say Bermuda grass, but far enough north that your Bermuda grass goes dormant and turns brown when the winter temperatures dip just a little too low, I've got your answer: over-seeding.

Come fall, spread some grass seed for a cool season over your warm-season grass and see what happens. As the warm season grass checks out for winter, the cool season grass will check in. The result will be year-round green. But over-seeding takes more than just sprinkling grass seed. Here are a few over-seeding pointers.

If you're tired of looking out over your brown Bermuda grass all winter long, a little over-seeding can turn things green again.

Dawn West B.A. holds a B.A. in English from Harvard University and teaches writing at Oregon State University.

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Green Grass, Year Round - All About Lawns

When starting a new lawn, many people wonder which is better: laying sod or sowing seeds. While laying sod is fast and produces high-quality new turf, seeding lawns are much cheaper and offer a wider variety of grass types. To learn which grass types are best for your area, contact a nearby extension service (many counties and universities have extensions), or ask an expert at a local garden center. Much of the labor of starting a lawn from seed is in the all-important prep work, but just as important is watering the seed and sprouts regularly until the new grass is well established.

Remove any old grass plants and weeds from the area. You can dig out unwanted plants with a flat-bladed shovel, making sure you get the roots. Another method is to apply a non-selective herbicide (such as Roundup), then use a rented sod cutter to remove the dead grass and roots. Take a sample of the soil and have it tested for soil pH. Most lawn grasses prefer a pH of 6.0 to 7.5. If the test reveals that your soil is overly acidic, you can "sweeten" it by applying garden lime.

Break up the compacted soil with a rented tiller, or rototiller. Spread a starter fertilizer over the loosened soil. Thistype of fertilizer is high in phosphorus, the middle number in the NPK sequence on a fertilizer bag. Also, spread a soil amendment over the soil. "Soil conditioner" is often what it is called at the store, but if you have a good supply of compost at home, it will serve just as well as a soil amendment.

Use the tiller to mix the starter fertilizer and soil conditioner (or equivalent) into the soil. Rake the soil to begin to level it out, removing any rocks and debris. To ensure proper drainage of surface water, make sure that any site grading you do allows water to flow away from your house. Finally, use a rented lawn roller (with a water-filled drum) to finish leveling the soil. Water the soil lightly.

Follow the recommended seeding rate (as listed on the bag of grass seed) to apply the seed with a seed spreader. Spread 1/4 of the seed over the entire lawn area. Then, repeat three more times, each time using 1/4 of the seed. However, each of the four times you distribute a load of seed, push the spreader in a different direction, to ensure even coverage. Rake the soil lightly to cover the seed with a thin layer of soil (if recommended by the seed manufacturer). Empty the water from the roller drum, and roll the lawn surface.

Moisten the soil carefully, using a fine spray from a hose sprayer. Be careful not to over-water and create a flood. Repeat watering several times per day (depending on the weather) to keep the soil evenly moist. Do not let the soil dry out. The seeds will germinate and begin to sprout in about 7 to 14 days. Do not walk on or allow pets on any seeded area during this initial phase of growth. The soil is very unstable and any disturbance will lead to bare areas.

Continue watering up to three times per day to keep the soil moist (it does not need to be wet) until the new grass is ready to mow: about 4 inches tall, or as recommended on the seed packaging. Mow the grass to no less than 3 inches in height (cut off no more than 1/3 of the total grass blade length). Make sure the grass gets plenty of water until it has grown enough to need three mowings. From that point on, water the grass with the normal schedule for the area, the current weather, and the type of grass. It's also a good idea to pull new weeds as they emerge to prevent them from spreading.

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How to Start a Lawn From Seed - The Spruce

We work with you throughout to develop and implement strategies,allowing you to select the best solution for your Project.

Our dedicated Customer Service Department includes Natural Resource Scientists and horticulturalists,whose vast experience in establishing turf, native grass and native bushlandgives you a distinct advantage.

Aquaseeding deploys our people and equipmentacross three States, and our innovative approaches allow us to combine solutions,resources and smarts to solve any problem we encounter onsite.

We will work with you to understand the outcome you want to achieve,the soil and climatic conditions of your site and your project timelines.

By understanding this we can tailor a solution that meets your requirements and has the best chance of success. An important part of developing the solution is visiting your site to better understand conditions, such as site access and taking soil samples.

Our proposal to you will include a full description of the works to be conductedincluding seed mixes, treatments and techniques. Before we start on siteyou will know what you are going to get and what you can expect to be charged,so there are no surprises down the track.

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Aquaseeding | Aquaseeding

Planting (or seeding) a lawn is not difficult and can be done successfully by anyone. If you are planting grass seed, follow these five simple steps for best results.

A great lawn can only be grown from great grass seeds. To find a top quality grass seed, look for an NTEP rated variety, which means it has been independently evaluated and rated by the National Turf Evaluation Program, (NTEP). The NTEP rating on grass seeds means you are purchasing grass seeds that have been specifically bred for superior green grass color, disease and insect resistance and drought tolerance.

The price of grass seed is small compared to the time that will be invested in building a great lawn. To get the best lawn results you need the best grass seed.

Get GreenView Fairway Formula top rated NTEP grass seed today

For planting new lawns:

For overseeding an existing lawn:

Grass seed can be planted in the spring and fall with good results. If you are planning a spring planting of grass seed, do not apply weed control products to the grass. Delay the weed control application until the grass seed has germinated and you have mowed the grass at least 3 times.

For a fall planting of grass seed, follow the same weed control precautions and time the seed planting to allow the grass seed to fully germinate before freezing temperatures arrive in your region.

Learn more about:NTEP and grass seed ratings Selecting a cool season grass Selecting a warm season grass How to read a grass seed label

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How to Plant Grass Seed GreenView Fertilizer

As with most landscaping projects, preparation is the most critical part of seeding a lawn. The condition of the soil has to be ideal to coax the tiny grass seeds into germinating. That means using well-turned earth with proper drainage and the right chemistry.

To get these conditions, you first need to remove any vestiges of the old lawn. Renting a sod cutter for about $75 to $100 a day allows you to slice off old grass and weeds at the roots. Then it's time to turn the soil with a rotary tiller, adding sand and compost in successive layers to achieve an ideal mix.

But even with these additions, no soil is ready for seeds if it doesn't have the right pH. The pH scale measures acidity and alkalinity, denoted by numbers from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. Grass grows best in soil that has a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. If your soil is too acidic (below 6.0)a common problem in cooler wet climates like the Northwest and Northeastyou can add lime to bring it up. If it's mildly alkaline (7.5 to 8.0), a little peat moss, which is naturally acidic, should correct it. Soil that is very alkaline (more than 8.0), which is more likely to exist in dry, hot climates, needs sulfur.

All soil could use a little fertilizer boost to nourish the seeds. Then once the soil is ready, the actual planting is cake. Just throw out the right amount of seeds, gently rake them into the turned earth, and make sure they get enough water to keep on growing.

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How to Seed a Lawn | This Old House

Planting grass seed is an economical and satisfying way to expand the green space around your home or improve your existing lawn. In order to enjoy successful grass establishment and all the benefits seeding offers, follow these eight steps to grow a lush, inviting green lawn:

The time of year you plant grass seed has a direct effect on its success. Proper timing helps ensure your grass seed will germinate properly, grow quickly and remain healthy while new seedlings become established.

The best time to plant grass seed varies according to your grass growing region and the type of grass you grow. Lawns across the northern tier of the United States typically consist of cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue or perennial ryegrass. Planting during cool weather in fall and spring coincides with the most active growth periods for these grass types.

In Massachusetts, for example, early fall is the ideal time to plant grass seed.1 At this time, the ground is still warm enough to aid germination, but the days are cool and sometimes rainy. This combination helps ensure newly planted seeds don't dry out. There's also sufficient daylight in early fall to allow new grass to thrive and become established before winter's arrival.

Spring seeding is your second best option for planting cool-season grasses. Aim to seed early in the season, but wait until daytime temperatures are in the 60 to 75 degree Fahrenheit range. This roughly corresponds to the optimal soil temperatures for cool-season grass seed germination. Spring sunshine and rain both contribute to strong grass growth.

For lawns across the southern half of the U.S., warm-season lawn grasses such as Bermudagrass, Zoysia grass, Bahiagrass and Centipede grass are the rule. These grasses are best planted during their optimal growth period, which falls in spring and early summer instead of fall. Wait to plant warm-season grasses until daytime temperatures stay near 80 F or higher and all danger of a late spring frost in your area has passed.

If you intend to replace the entire lawn, it's important to do a thorough job of removing the old turf. Use a sod cutter to take out the old grass at the roots. Another option for clearing the area is to spray the lawn with a non-selective herbicide, which kills both grass and broadleaf plants. If you choose to spray, follow label instructions for your product closely and avoid any contact with grass or plants you want to keep.

After the product's designated waiting period, reapply as needed to kill any remaining grass. Once you're certain that the turf you want to replace is dead, clear the dead grass from the site and make any needed adjustments to the grade to prepare for seeding.

Optimum soil conditions boost successful seed germination and support healthy turf growth. To prepare your soil for planting, do the following:

To succeed at growing a healthy lawn, it's important to buy quality grass seed that is well-suited to your climate and your growing conditions. Premium, purebred Pennington Smart Seed grasses are water-conserving, drought-resistant and developed for superior performance in home lawns.

Whether you grow warm-season or cool-season grasses depends primarily on where you live. Warm-season lawn grasses are best suited to southern climates and grow most vigorously during the warm months of the year. They typically go dormant and brown in the winter. Cool-season grasses are typically used in northern and transition zone lawns, growing best where summers are moderate and winters are cold. They remain green all year, but can go brown and dormant in heat and drought.

In many areas of the country, you can opt for a mix of seed specific to your region. Smart Seed mixes are designed for lawns in the Midwest, Northeast, Pacific Northwest and Pennsylvania State. If you're growing lawn grass in shade, choose a grass seed product such as Pennington Smart Seed Dense Shade, which is formulated especially for challenging low-light conditions. For lawns with variable shade and sun, Pennington Smart Seed Sun & Shade provides the solution you need.

Choosing the right type of spreader for your situation helps you get the results you need. A drop spreader drops seed straight down in a path the width of your spreader as you move across your lawn. This type of spreader maneuvers well in tight spaces and is ideal for small lawns (less than 5,000 sq. ft.), which typically require more precision in where the seed lands.

A broadcast or rotary spreader comes in walk-behind and hand-held types that spread seed by fanning it out in all directions, providing more uniform coverage. These spreaders are ideal for large lawns, but they lack the precision drop spreaders provide.

Once you finish spreading the seed, use a rake to lightly work it into the soil at a depth of about 1/4 inch. Don't bury the seeds any deeper; grass seed needs adequate light to germinate quickly. After raking, pass over the area with a roller, which helps ensure the good seed-to-soil contact your new seed needs.

Overseeding is the process of planting grass seed into an existing lawn. This is done to improve your lawn's overall look and health, thicken your grass, minimize weeds, fill in bare or damaged areas, or convert to another type of lawn grass. Also, southern lawns are often overseeded with a cool-season grass to provide green color during winter months. When overseeding, broadcast the seed over the lawn, and water it in well, following the same instructions as for new lawns.

Keeping grass seeds and seedlings constantly moist but not soggy is critical to successful grass-seeding efforts. Water newly seeded areas two to three times a day with a light spray to keep the seeds moist. Stop watering when puddles begin to appear on the soil surface. Once the seeds germinate and grass seedlings begin to grow, gradually transition to watering less frequently but more heavily. Taper off watering as the grass becomes taller and more mature.

Depending on the type of grass you're growing, germination may take anywhere from five to 21 days. Expect your new grass to take another four to 10 weeks to root well and become established. It will take a full season for most grasses to mature to the point where they're ready for steady foot traffic.

Once your new seedlings reach about 1 inch in height, examine the newly seeded area for any bare spots or places you may have missed. Reseed the bare areas, and repeat the process as needed until new seedlings are thick and you're satisfied with the results.

Once your grass reaches 3 inches high, it's ready to withstand mowing. Always follow best practices for mowing lawns, including the recommended mowing heights for your type of grass. Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing or you can stress your grass and invite lawn disease, problem weeds and weak growth. With fall-planted cool-season lawns, your first mowing may need to wait until the following spring.

During the first season of establishment, young grass is still tender, so avoid as much foot traffic as possible. Keep your grass growing strong with regular maintenance, including irrigation. Water as needed to supplement rainfall so your lawn receives about 1 inch of water per week under normal conditions.

Begin fertilizingcool-season lawns four to eight weeks after seed germination, but never later than November. For warm-season grasses, wait until the following spring to feed your new lawn. After initial feedings, you might need to fertilize up to four times a year, according to your soil test recommendations. Retest the soil every three to four years, and adjust accordingly.

By choosing the best grass for your region and your lawn's conditions and following these simple guidelines planting grass seed is a straightforward project that will transform for your yard.Penningtonis dedicated to providing you with theresourcesandpremium productsyou need to grow lush, beautiful turf. You and your family and friends can enjoy all thebenefits of a beautiful, natural lawn.

Total Time Required to Transform Your Lawn:6-12 weeks, depending on the region, weather and grass type.

How hard you'll have to work on a scale of 1-4:3 (a little work goes a long wayespecially during the prep phase)

Time breakdown:

Pennington and Smart Seed are registered trademarks of Pennington Seed, Inc.

1. University of Massachusetts Amherst, Lawn Renovation and Overseeding."

2. Ricigliano, D., "Lawn Establishment, Renovation and Overseeding," University of Maryland Extension, 2016.

3. Nathan, M. and Fresenburg, B., "Soil Testing for Lawns," University of Missouri Extension, June 2008.

4. Grande, J., "Seeding Your Lawn," Rutgers New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, February 2004.

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How to Plant Grass Seed - Pennington.com

Growing From Seed

Growing a lawn from seed offers an affordable option, especially for smaller lawns. Success hinges on selecting the best grass seed for your situation. Turfgrass breeders make advances every year, so its worthwhile to do some research to discover available options. Local grass seed vendors typically carry tried-and-true seed types. You can find newer seed types at a nursery or landscaping business that specializes in lawn installation. Always buy top-quality seed. Its worth the investment.

Before spending any money on grass seed, test your soil. You can select the ideal grass seed and still grow a lackluster lawn if your soil pH is incorrect. Most turf grasses thrive in well-aerated soil with a slightly acidic pH (between 6 and 7.5). Obtain a soil test kit from your local extension office. To take a soil test, gather soil samples from several places around the area youll be seeding. Mix the soil, and place it into the soil testing bag. Expect to pay at least $15 for the test (price varies by region). It takes about two weeks to get results back, and it will take more time to adjust soil as specified by the results. Plan accordingly: dont do your soil test the day before you plan to seed.

Grass falls into two general categories: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses are the ones that grow in warmer regions of the country. These include grasses like St. Augustine, Bermuda, buffalo, centipede and zoysia. Warm-season grasses achieve their peak growth when summer hits its stride. These grasses typically require full sun to thrive, although St. Augustine can tolerate some shade in the Deep South.

Cool-season grasses are the ones that grow in northern regions of the country. Fine, tall and red fescues, perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass are cool-season grasses. This type of turf grows the most during the cool seasons of spring and fall. Cool-season grasses tend to be more shade-tolerant, especially the fescues. One key factor in choosing the right grass seed simply depends on where you live. You dont want to plant warm-season turf in Vermont or fine fescue in South Texas.

Its important to consider how much wear and tear your lawn will experience as you select a grass seed. If you have a family with young children who enjoy a summer pool and running on the lawn, opt for a grass other than fine fescue, which doesnt stand up to foot traffic. Kentucky bluegrass is the turf of choice for athletic fields, and its also self-mending. When damage causes bare spots, the turf can creep in to fill in holes. However, Kentucky bluegrass can be more demanding in terms of care, needing more mowing, fertilizing and watering to look its best.

Consider irrigation needs when you choose your grass seed. If you live in a region subject to droughts and water restrictions, select a grass like tall fescue, zoysia or buffalo grass. Floratam is the St. Augustine variety thats the most drought-tolerant, but it does require some shade. If you plant Kentucky bluegrass, you will need to water regularly to maintain a healthy lawn.

Some cool-season turf types go dormant during summer, while warm-season zoysia enters dormancy during the years chilliest months. Some municipalities now require home builders to install lawns with summer-dormancy capabilities. If you choose turf that needs watering to look its best, consider adding an irrigation system before seeding, especially if soil is bare. Its better to dig up the yard before grass is growing. Consider what your lawn will look like in winter as you select seed. While you can remedy a winter-dormant lawn by overseeding with ryegrass, you might want to consider taking a break from lawn care.

Different types of grasses tolerate differing levels of shade. By far, most grasses crave sun and need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight to thrive. Specialized shade-tolerant grass blends thrive in four hours of dappled sun or partial shade. In the cool-season grass category, the shade-tolerant grasses are rye and fine and tall fescues. Warm-season grasses that grow in shade include zoysia and St. Augustine. A quality seed blend for a shady lawn should include several different types of shade-tolerant grasses. That way, if one grass fails to succeed, theres another to take its place.

When youre seeding a sloping area of your yard, choose a seed blend that includes a high percentage of perennial ryegrass. This grass is quick to germinate and establish. Its fast-growing root system will reduce erosion while other turf types in the seed blend establish. Avoid purchasing a seed blend with more than 20 percent perennial ryegrass, or it may overpower the other grasses in the mix. A blend is always better, because it effectively hedges your seeding bets.

Consider lawn maintenance when you select grass seed. Grasses like fescues have higher ideal growing heights and dont need mowing as often as a Kentucky bluegrass lawn. Among warm-season turf, youll typically mow centipede and Bermuda grass more frequently than zoysia. Native grasses like buffalo grass require the lowest amount of mowing. Turf that goes dormant in summer heat or winter chill also demands less mowing during periods of dormancy. Factor all of these considerations into your selection of a specific grass seed.

Research to be sure you understand the fertility needs of the turf type you intend to grow. If youre someone who likes to pursue organic fertilizing with compost and other earth-friendly brews, make sure the grass you select responds well to that type of fertilizer program. Some turf requires more frequent fertilization. Do your homework to be certain youre not planting a high-maintenance lawn when you only have time to grow a low-maintenance one. Ultimately, no matter what type of grass seed you buy, the label should show weed seed content less than 1 percent and inert material content less than 4 percent. Never buy grass seed with a germination rate less than 70 percent.

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How to Choose the Right Grass Seed | DIY

Popular Types Of Grass Seed

There is a wide range of grass varieties, but there are just two basic categories of grass types: Warm Season grasses and Cool Season grasses. As you might imagine, all of the different varieties in each of these grass types is best suited for a certain type of climate.

Warm Season grasses are generally native to tropical regions and thrive when they are in hot climates with a lot of daily sunshine. They tend to grow best in temperatures ranging from 75F to 90F and will often turn brown or go dormant in the cooler late-fall and winter months.

The majority of the growing of Warm Season grasses happens in the summer months. Some examples of popular Warm Season grass varieties include St. Augustine grass, Buffalo, Bermuda, and Centipede.

Cool Season grasses do well in areas that have cold, freezing winters and very hot summers. They grow the fastest when temperatures are from 65F to 80F, or during in the spring and fall months.

While Cool Season grasses are suited to climates that have regular intervals of rain in the summer, many of them can withstand long periods of drought by going dormant. Some popular examples of Cool Season grasses include Perennial and Annual Ryegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Red Fescue, and Bentgrass.

You can start you search for the best grass seed for your lawn by learning which type of climate you live in. If you are in the Warm Season zone, you should be researching the different varieties of Warm Season grasses and vice versa for the Cool Season zone.

Each grass variety has certain applications where it does best. For example, Bahia grass and Buffalo grass are both Warm Season grasses, but they have different characteristics. Bahia grass does best in full sun conditions and in areas with sandy, slightly acidic soil. It needs regular watering, but is relatively resistant to short periods of drought and is ideal for high activity areas.

Unfortunately, while being an extremely hardy grass, it doesn't create a very uniform lawn and it doesn't handle the cold very well. On the other hand, Buffalo grass has a smoother, more manicured look and can withstand near freezing temperatures for short periods. It can also survive through extended drought periods, but doesn't do well in high activity areas.

To choose the best grass variety for your home, start by testing the pH of your soil. You can adjust your soil pH as needed, but why not choose a grass variety that does well in your soil type and skip the hassle? Next you should consider how much maintenance you want to put into lawn care. If you don't want to deal with regular waterings, go with a variety that is drought resistant.

If you don't want to have to mow so often, choose a slower growing variety. You'll also want to consider how much traffic you'll be subjecting your lawn to. Some grass varieties can deal with cars being parked on them regularly, while others can't even withstand minor foot traffic.

Not everybody lives in a Cool Season or Warm Season grass climate. There is a narrow band across America known as the Transition Zone and picking the right grass variety in these areas can be trickier. If you live in the Transition Zone, you'll want to consider Kentucky Bluegrass, Zoysiagrass, Thermal Blue, Perennial Ryegrass, or Tall Fescue.

Creating the perfect lawn isn't just about picking the right variety. You'll also need to maintain it correctly and plant at the right time of year. A general rule of thumb is that Warm Season grasses should be planted from March through September, and Cool Season grasses should be planted from mid-August through mid-October, but refer to the directions on your specific grass variety to further narrow down the best seeding time.

You need to make sure to prepare your lawn before laying down your seed as well. If you are planting a new lawn, start by loosening the top few inches of soil with a cultivator or hoe. Next, remove large debris and break up any big clumps of soil. If you have any low spots where water might collect, you should level them out, so no grass seed is left in standing water for too long.

After your lawn has been fully prepared, you can spread your grass seed. For best results, you should fertilize with a starter fertilizer after seeding and then water twice a day. Once you have mowed your new lawn one or two times, you can revert back to a normal watering schedule.

If you are overseeding an existing lawn, you'll want to mow your grass as short as possible, loosen any bare soil spots, remove dead grass clumps, and then spread the seed as evenly as possible. As with a new lawn planting, you should water twice a day until after the first or second mowing and lay down a starter fertilizer.

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The 7 Best Grass Seed - Ezvid Wiki: The World's Video Wiki

Why Overseed?

Over-seeding is the practice of spreading new seed over an established turf. Bermuda, zoysia, and other warm-season grasses go dormant and turn brown during the colder winter weather. Over-seeding your lawn with a cool-season grass gives you a green lawn throughout the entire year.

When over-seeding, you are actually seeding into the existing warm-season turf. Rye grasses are well suited for this purpose and more specifically perennial ryegrass is highly recommended.Over-seeding just before the warm-season grasses go dormant ensures that youll enjoy green grass throughout the winter months. Good fall establishment will require some seed bed preparation, but tilling should be minimal enough to let the warm-season grass recover well in the following spring.

St. Augustine and zoysia grasses are not well suited for over-seeding. However, lawns featuring bermuda grass are easily over-seeded, producing a green landscape year-long.

The best time to over-seed your lawn with cool-season grasses will occur between October 1st and November 15th. Over-seeding too early in the fall can result in thin, spotty establishment; the actively growing bermuda grass will out-compete the ryegrass. If planted too late, growth is slowed down by colder temperatures resulting in poor establishment.

Ryegrass seed germination will decline after soil temperatures start to move below 63 F. You can stick a cooking thermometer into the ground to determine the temperature. Make holes with a screwdriver to take the temperature in multiple areas of your lawn.

Verti-cut, power rake, and mow your bermuda grass as low as possible to remove or reduce thatch. If you can only mow, lower your mower blades as far as they will go. You essentially want to scalp the grass down as much as possible. This will guarantee good seed contact with the soil. Planting your ryegrass seed is done just like planting grass for a new lawn. Apply grass seed using a spreader or seeder. Apply only 1/2 of the seed in one direction, and then apply the other 1/2 of the seed in the other direction. This method insures an evenly covered seed bed.

If over-seeding with annual ryegrass, plant 10 to 20 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet. If using perennial ryegrass (recommended), plant 10 to 15 lbs of seed per 1,000 square feet. Over-eeding more than this may cause excessive competition among seedlings. Crowded seedlings will be more susceptible to diseases.

After seeds are planted, they must stay moist to germinate properly. Covering the seeds with finely-ground bark mulch, manure compost, or sand which will help hold the moisture in; this practice is known as top-dressing. Do not use peat moss because it is difficult to keep wet and can blow away.

Light, frequent watering (up to three times a day) is essential during the first seven to ten days. Keep the soil moist until the seedlings have established their roots.Germinating seeds need a lot of oxygen so dont overwater and cause flooding.

Water the newly-planted seed for about 15 minutes to get the grass seed and soil soaked well the first time. Continue watering three times daily for 3 to 7 minutes each for the first 7 to 10 days. If your soil drains well, you may water for longer but if your soil is heavy and doesnt drain well, prevent puddling by shortening your watering time. Once germinated, grass seed watering intervals should gradually shift to about once each week. During the coldest times of the season, you may only need to water once every two weeks.

Monitor the soil moisture by sticking a screwdriver into the soil. If the screw driver goes in easily and comes out damp, you dont need to add water. You want to keep the top six inches of soil moist; when your grass needs water, it will let you know. Symptoms of moisture stress are wilting, grey-green color and footprint indents remaining visible long after stepping over lawn.

Two weeks after seedlings emerge, apply a high-phosphorus grass fertilizer, which will promote good root development. There are many starter fertilizers that you can choose; one example is ammonium phosphate (16-20-0), which you would apply at about 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet.

Annual and perennial ryegrass should be first mowed when they reach heights between 2 -inches and 3 inches. If using a rotary mower, set the blade height between 2 -inches and 2 -inches. If using a reel-type mower, mow your lawn between 1 and 1 -inches, when grass is a third of the normal mowing height.

Bermuda and most warm-season grasses start growing back when nighttime temperatures reach the upper 60s. To encourage the return of your bermuda grass, lower the mowing height to an inch or less once the nights become warmer. This will effectively scalp the cool-season grass, reducing shade and warming the bermuda grass beneath. At this point, stop fertilizing, but continue mowing low and maintaining good soil moisture for your grass. This will reduce competition between the bermuda and the ryegrass, helping your bermuda grass come back strong.

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Over-seeding Grass - PLANTING GRASS SEED CENTER

Why should I overseed my lawn?

Overseeding is the planting of grass seed over an existing lawn. Overseeding corrects thin lawns, or prevents thinning, by compensating for the natural slowdown of the turfs reproduction or turfgrass death from environmental stresses.Overseeding introduces new and improved turfgrass varieties into your lawn that out compete weeds and fill in bare spots. By doing this, the lawn stays healthy and you seldom have to start over.

The best time for overseeding is late summer to early fall. Weeds are less active at this time so the seed will germinate better, temperatures are cooler, the ground is warm and you have great growing months ahead.

How do I begin?

Choose the proper Jonathan Green grass seed for the growing conditions of your lawn. We recommend using Black Beautygrass seed mixtures when seeding for their beautiful dark green look, drought tolerance, along with its disease and insect resistance.

Test your soil pH to see if Mag-I-Cal is needed, ideally your lawn should have a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. Then, check your lawn for soil compaction and overall soil health, to determine how muchLove Your Soilis needed. To test for soil compaction, push ascrew driver into the soil. If this proves difficult, your soil is compacted. If your soil has clay, sand, is light in color, or has a dusty composition it is missing essential microbes and Love Your Soil could be appliedeither once or twice a year, between the months of May and early September, depending on its severity.

If the lawn has not been mowed, do so before raking the ground to loosen the soil. While raking, remove dead grass, stones, sticks, etc. from the lawn area. In the case of larger areas, use of a rented, motorized, thatching machine can be helpful in the establishment of a seed bed.

Apply Winter Survival or Green-Up for Seeding and Soddingand soil foods,such as Mag-I-Cal and/or Love Your Soil.These products can be applied the same day as the seed.

If following our organic program, apply Mag-I-Calfor Acidic Soil or Mag-I-Cal for Alkaline Soil, along with our Organic Lawn Foodif it has been over 2 months since your last lawn fertilization.These products can also all be applied on the same day as the grass seed.

How do Iaccurately apply grass seed?

Apply seed at the proper rate,preferably with a spreader. For proper application seethe back of all product bags, or our spreader settings website,for accurate rates and settings.For maximum germination, please be sure that the grass seed is in firm contact with the loosened soil. Grass seed should be raked lightly so it is covered by 1/4 inch of soil.

How often should I water?

The seed bed should be kept moist for a few weeks while the grass seed is germinating. Light waterings,2 to 3 times a day,are of benefit during the early days when the newly seeded area is establishing. Within a few weeks, after the newly seeded grass needs to be mowed, you can decrease your watering schedule.

Is it possible to seed too heavy?

All plants need ample space for roots to spread. By spreading your grass seed too thickly on the ground, roots have to compete with each other to grow. Some seeds push through quickly and others fail to grow a deep root structure at all. As a result, you have a patchy lawn that still struggles as the seedlings fight for nutrients.

When will my grass seed sprout?

Perennial Ryegrass germinates the quickest, sometimes in 5 days, however it usually takes 10-14 days. Fine fescues including the creeping, chewing, and hard types usually take about 10-20 days. Tall Fescue usually takes 10-20 days but can be slow to establish under colder temperatures. Kentucky Bluegrass is the slowest to germinate, usually in 14-30 days and longer with cold temperatures. Remember, germinate means start to grow. You cannot expect a filled in lawn in 10 days!

Mow the new grass once it reaches 4 high. Keep the mowing height at 3 except for the last cut of the year which should be 2 inches in height. This is very important for your lawn during the winter months. The shorter mowing height helps the grass plant roots survive winter stress.

More here:
Seeding Guide | Jonathan Green