Milwaukee-Based Builders Expand Garages in Greater Wisconsin

At J.D. Griffiths, our reps frequently get asked if we build additions to existing garages. The answer is an overwhelming, Yes! In fact, we take it a step further with the ability to perfectly match the exact look and style of your pre-existing garage. Perhaps you would rather have a slightly different design, one that accompanies your current garage as an accent. Basically, whatever garage you dream of having, well make it happen.

Lets realistically suppose youre worried about the new garage being spick and span, meaning your existing garage might appear old and run-down in comparison. Our master carpenters are easily able to give your existing garage a glorified facelift. Optional services include new siding, a new roof, and a new service door, along with aluminum soffits, overhangs, and touched-up trim. By enlisting our garage remodeling service, we can also rebuild the walls, making everything maintenance-free for years upon years to come. Your current garage will look brand new just like the addition that really is new!

We get it: youre thinking about adding on to your attached garage, but have no clue what the price will be, what is logistically possible on your property, or how youll obtain the building permit(s) needed in Wisconsin.

Do you wonder what adding a 1-car addition to your current 2.5-car attached garage would cost? Perhaps you have a 1-car garage right now and need to house 2 vehicles. In some cases it might be more cost-effective on your part to have us tear the old one down and start fresh. Even so, you have no idea if your desired garage addition or new build will be $10,000, $20,000, or $30,000? Prices can vary significantly based on a variety of factors, many of which come down to your personal preference.

Ultimately, we might have to see your current configuration in order to give a 100% accurate quote. Please know you are NEVER wasting our time by reaching out to us for help in planning and estimating, even if youre completely unsure of whether or not youre going to go through with it. Its important to us you have a pinpointed idea of what your new dream garage is going to cost.

The one thing we cant do when planning to have an addition built to your existing garage is help you convince your wifebut good luck with that part!

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Additions to Existing Garages | Milwaukee Garage Addition ...

Four Generations of Construction

We all hear a lot about family values these days and here at CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. we live them every day. CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. has provided value and quality in storage buildings, garages, additions, and garage doors to thousands of families. CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. is dedicated to helping families meet their growing needs for additional storage and living space. Whether you are looking for a safe place to store your family's car, boat, bikes, lawn equipment, or you need to add a workshop, home office, or apartment, CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. has the size and type of garage you need.With our five garage styles and hundreds of design possibilities, CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. can satisfy your individual requirements. We are confident you will be pleased with your CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. product.

With most catalogs, you'll find complicated charts, measurements and pricing breakdowns. At CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C. we don't bother you with these charts and numbers because our garages are custom designed by YOU!

What you will find inside this site is an array of styles and ideas to help you formulate the design best suited to reflect the architecture of your area and the style of your home.

Not having the price readily available may seem strange,but as you consider the customizing options you can understand just how complicated this could be. We will be happy to quote you a price on any size garage oraddition including any options you choose.

Thank youfor your interest in CT Garages & AdditionsL.L.C.. We look forward to serving you and your family.

Anthony Fiengo jr.HIC License Number: 0649246

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Home | CT Garages & Additions - Building all through ...

The construction in the Central District is set to be complete in the summer of 2018, but Jim Modig, University architect, anticipates that the projects will be finished months in advance.

The new Central District will stretch from just north of 19th Street to just south of Jayhawker Towers, bordering Daisy Hill to the west and Oliver Hall to the east.

Progress wise, in terms of the project, it appears to us at this point that everything right now is running ahead of schedule significantly, Modig said.

Modig said the University is ahead of schedule due to good weather and efficient scheduling by the contractor.

The first of the projects, the new Central District parking garage, was completed in January and will service students, faculty, staff and visitors who travel to the Central District, Modig said.

Likewise, Modig said the new Frank R. Burge Student Union, which will house a ballroom 50 percent larger than the ballroom in the Kansas Union and will be used for large gatherings and conferences, will be completed by spring.

I would anticipate that the Burge Union may be done and ready for occupancy as early as March of 2018, Modig said.

The new union will also house Legal Services for Students, the Sexual Assault Prevention and Education Center and the Emily Taylor Center for Women and Gender Equity, according to theUniversitys website.

Furthermore, Modig said the new Central Utility Plant went into service in June. In addition to meeting the Universitys power and water needs, the plant will also serve as a laboratory for students. The plant has a 45-seat classroom, Modig said.

You actually have a live, living laboratory right there at your fingertips, Modig said. You have a window from the classroom that looks into that, and then you have the capability of actually going down onto the machine-room floor.

Modig also anticipated that the new Integrated Science Building will be completed three months early, with the last third of the building being completed in May 2018.

The ISB will significantly expand the teaching and research space for chemistry, physics and biosciences as well as reduce reliance on the aging Malott Hall, Modig said.

Moreover, the Cora Downs Residence Hall and the South Commons Dining Center were completed in May andopened in August.

Sarah Waters, director of student housing, said both facilities have been well received by students and parents.

We felt that it offered that next level of housing type that would be pretty appealing to many of our students, Waters said.

Waters said Downs Hall is 99 percent full and that about 60 percent of its residents are upperclassmen, while 40 percent are freshmen.

Moreover, Waters said that housing, system-wide, is 96 to 97 percent full, though Corbin Hall is currently closed for renovations.

In addition to a new residence hall, Central District will be the site of the Stouffer Place Apartments, which are set to open in summer 2018.

The only other student apartments on campus are Jayhawker Towers and McCarthy Hall. Waters said, historically, the University hasnt had enough apartment space but that the Stouffer Apartments will allow more upperclassmen to live on campus.

I think [Central District] will have its own niche, ultimately, Waters said. What Im hopeful about with central district, especially with the apartments there including Jayhawker, we will really be able to bring a lot of those students off of Daisy Hill down to the central area to go into Jayhawker and into Stouffer, so well really evolve a second and third-year experience there.

Modig said Central District will become its own community, similar to how Daisy Hill, GSP and Corbin, and the scholarship halls have their three separate communities.

Weve actually created little nodes in these four locations for housing, and so this creates a lot more livelihood in terms of that community experience, Modig said. Instead of having [Oliver] Residence Hall sitting there all by itself, there are other students in the area.

Modig also said a new recreational field, which will be made out of AstroTurf, will help to foster community in the Central District. The field will be completed next month and managed by recreation services.

You add that rec field in there, that to me is probably a kind of crowning jewel piece we havent got that anywhere else on campus, Modig said.

As for future additions to the Central District, Waters said that there are plans to turn the old Oliver Hall dining center into an academic resource center. Waters said the center will serve the Central District similar to how the Daisy Hill Commons serves Daisy Hill residents.

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Central District construction months ahead of schedule - The University Daily Kansan

By KEN LAHMERSReporter

AURORA The citys landmark commission on Aug. 17 granted certificates of appropriateness, which will allow renovations at three historic district homes.

One of the homes is known by many longtime Aurorans as"the Green Monster." It is the large Queen Anne-style home at 50 S. Chillicothe Road, which has a new owner. It acquired its nickname because of its exterior green paint.

The other structures are located at 432 Eggleston Road and 270 S. Chillicothe Road.

"The Green Monster" eventually might not be green anymore, since new owner Helen Peterson announced she is considering repainting it a blue-gray color with white trim.

The home was built in 1898 and was owned by Willis J. Eldridge, a cheese merchant, in its early years. More recently, it was owned by former City Councilwoman Marcia Colombo and her husband Donald.

Architect George Clemens outlined plans to convert a screened porch in the back into a sunroom, replace some windows and add some railings around the front porch to closer match the houses original look.

Meanwhile, exterior alterations and additions were approved for the Eggleston Road home now owned by Robert and Charlotte Emrick and historically known as the Chauncey Eggleston house. He was one of Auroras early settlers.

Eggleston, a member of the Ohio Senate from 1830-33, built the federal-style brick and stone house in 1831 after he moved to Aurora from Connecticut in 1807. It sets on a 14-acre parcel.

The Emricks plan an addition to the existing garage, adding a breezeway between the house and existing garage and a dormer and building a detached barn/workshop behind the house and garage.

Landmark panel chairman Jeff Clark commended the Emricks for their desire to improve the historic property.

The third certificate of appropriateness was granted to Isaac Pennock for his South Chillicothe Road home. He plans to replace 13 of 21 windows in the house because they are deteriorating.

In another matter, panelist John Kudley, president of the Aurora Historical Society, announced the dedication of an Ohio Historic Marker focusing on the Geauga Lake area will be Sept. 17 at 3 p.m. at the Geauga Lake Improvement Associations lakeside property on Route 43 across from East Boulevard.

The public is welcome to attend the dedication.

Email: klahmers@recordpub.com

Phone: 330-541-9400 ext. 4189

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Renovations eyed to historic homes in Aurora - Columbus CEO

County fees are estimated at $18,226 for a one-bedroom, 640 square-foot accessory dwelling unit above a garage in Pajaro Valley. This does not include fees charged by water, fire, sewer and school districts.

Processing: $1,587

Building plan check: $1,412

Permit fee: $1,425

Soil report: $1,573

Environmental plan check: $576

Environmental inspections: $350

Address review: $145

Zoning review: $742

Road review: $433

Drainage review: $970

Roadside improvements: $3,000

Park fees: $1,000

Child care fees: $109

Affordable housing fee: $1,280

General plan & technology: $624

Source: Draft county ADU report

SANTA CRUZ >> Its hard to say how many accessory dwelling units in unincorporated Santa Cruz County have been created without permits.

One estimate is up to 5,000. Another is 1,000-2,000.

Those figures come from a 200-page report going to Santa Cruz County supervisors at 10:45 a.m. Tuesday with a package of recommendations to encourage property owners to go through the countys ADU permit process.

County planners see accessory dwelling units, which tend to be less than 1,000 square feet, as a way to create rentals that are more affordable but county homeowners have been wary, with only 16 ADU permits issued in 2016.

Costs are the biggest obstacle, according to the report.

Building a one-bedroom, 640-square-foot unit above a garage in Pajaro Valley is estimated to cost $181,443 including $18,226 in county fees. Construction costs are estimated at $200 per square foot.

New construction of a two-bedroom 800-square-foot ADU in Soquel would cost more, an estimated $379,914.

This includes $20,353 in county fees and $53,961 in special district fees.

In Soquel, the Soquel Creek Water District requires a second hookup, which costs $13,500. Installation requires hiring a contractor, adding $20,000 to $30,000.

Planning director Kathy Previsich estimates up to half the accessory dwellings is the county were created without permits, based on 650 responses to the countys online survey.

About 150 people attended two ADU workshops, indicating community interest.

Consultants Dyett & Bhatia and Vernazza Wolfe Associates drafted a detailed report on challenges and options to encourage ADUs. Recommendations include:

Establish an ADU team with the building official, a planner, a plan checker and planning technician for consistency in reviewing and processing applications. It can take two months to get county comments now.

Eliminate the affordable housing impact fee for ADUs involving converting space; the fee is not charged on remodels.

Offer property owners an assessment of changes to legalize an ADU, with amnesty and privacy for those who do not pursue it.

Offer 20-year loans of up to $40,000 toward ADU costs in exchange for deed restrictions for below-market rent to households with up to 80 percent of median income. Rent for a one-bedroom unit would be capped at $1,044 for a two-person household earning $64,550.

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Allow ADUs above garages with height averaging 21 feet, currently 19 feet, and a maximum of 24 feet, currently 22 feet.

Allow larger ADUs, up to 800 square feet on parcel up to 10,000 square feet outside the urban services line.

Allow additions of up to 150 square feet for a conversion ADU to make conversions easier.

Allow up to 2 percent more lot coverage and floor area ratio on parcels 6,000 square feet and smaller to make conversions easier.

Create an ADU design book to help property owners through the permit process.

Develop a program with Habitat for Humanity to do one ADU construction per year for seniors aging in place.

To homeowners who want to lower costs, the report noted a conversion ADU of a garage or existing space in the home is less expensive than new construction.

Fire sprinklers are required for new construction but not if sprinklers are not in the main home.

Additions under 500 square feet are exempt from some permit reviews and fees, which could make that approach more cost effective.

Lighthouse Bank, which offers construction financing and home equity loans, has financed six ADUs in nine years. Bay Federal Credit Union offers home equity loans but not construction financing.

The research included interviews with housing advocates Don Lane and Tom Burns, tenant advocates Cynthia Berger and Zav Hershfield and two property owners Denise and Lydia.

City of Santa Cruz: Architects Mark Primack and Jacquie Low created prototype designs in 2003. Tandem parking is allowed. Permit process takes two weeks to six months when plans are inadequate. Reducing the minimum lot size to 4,500 square feet and changing required setbacks for existing buildings encouraged legalization.

Capitola: Administrative process takes one month; two permits a year. Most lots do not qualify due to 5,000-square foot minimum lot size. Soquel Creek Water hookup cost is a deterrent.

Watsonville: Application process is over the counter. Garages are being converted without permits to living space.

Link:
ADU options going to Santa Cruz county supervisors Tuesday - Santa Cruz Sentinel

That's why when Fred and his wife Francine asked us this very question, we didn't just answer back from $19,000 to $25,000 on average, no, we designed this very two car garage addition package so that all the Fred and Francine's across America would know approximately how much money they need to invest to build a garage like this.

Well there are the obvious options like garage door types, lighting details, flooring: some people want an epoxy resin coated garage floor, so that is looks nice and it's easy to clean. How about windows, how many windows and what size of windows do you want. Should the windows be energy star rated?

There are some details to mull over before you start building your garage, but it is one of the easiest home extension that you can build. All garage builds on our website are factored with a slab on grade foundation which is a building standard.

Check out the pictures above, the construction costs below, and use our Automated Contractor Locating Service by filling out the form below, to find out who your neighbors picked to build their nice looking garage. Check out this garage addition story.

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2 Car Garage Plans - Simply Additions

OverviewA simple foundation

Theres no need to pour concrete. Get off the ground with a simple treated-wood foundation. Build it just like a deck platform.

Walls and roof finish the addition and make it look like its always been part of the house.

Is a packed garage keeping you from buying your dream motorcycle? Or maybe you just need a little more space for lawn equipment, bikes or your woodworking tools. A bump-out addition may be the solution to your overcrowded garage. And in this article well show you how to build one. If you have basic carpentry skills and experience building a deck, shed or other structure, then you can build this garage addition. In this article, well focus on the tough parts of the project, like installing the beam and building the roof. Study Figures A C for construction details. A Materials List is available in Additional Information below.

In addition to a basic set of carpentry tools, youll need a hammer drill to bore holes for the concrete anchors, and ladders or rented scaffolding to finish the roofing and other exterior details. While not essential, a reciprocating saw will simplify the wall tear-out.

We spent roughly $2,000 for materials for this 5 x 12-ft. garage addition. Your costs will vary depending on the type of siding, roofing and windows you choose.

With a helper, plan to spend about half a day installing the beam and a long weekend framing the addition. Then plan to spend another weekend finishing the exterior. The time it takes to complete the project will depend on whether you finish the inside as we did. Keep in mind that you can hire a siding, roofing or drywall contractor to complete parts of the project youre not comfortable with.

This addition is large enough to accommodate a garden tractor, a large motorcycle, or a workbench and a table saw. If youd prefer a larger size, contact an architect or structural engineer to specify the size of the header, floor joists and rafters.

Garage additions usually require a building permit. Contact your local building department to see whats needed. Make sure to call 811 a few days before you dig the footing holes to have underground utilities located and marked.

Frame the sides of the opening and install the new header. Then support the header with double trimmers on each end.

Set the new header on the cut-off studs, then force it up tight to the plate with shims before installing the new trimmer studs.

Before removing a section of the garage wall, youll have to add a header to support the weight of the roof above it. The gable end of this truss-framed garage roof doesnt support much weight, so we were able to add the double 210 header and remove the wall section without adding temporary supports. Gable end walls that support a second floor or ridge beam will require a larger header and temporary support. If you have a second floor above the garage or arent sure how the roof is framed, contact an architect or engineer to calculate the header size.

Start by locating the center of your addition and marking the size of the opening on the bottom plate of the wall. We centered the bump-out on the garage wall, but this isnt necessary. Remember to make the opening 7 in. narrower than the width of the addition. Next make marks 3 in. beyond the opening marks on each side to locate the inside edge of the king studs. Cut king studs and nail them to the top and bottom plates. For a 12-ft.-wide addition, the distance between the king studs should be 11 ft. 11 in. Cut the 210 headers to this length and nail them together with 10d nails. Nail a 24 to the bottom of the 2x10s to complete the header (Figure B).

Cut out the top section of the wall studs with a reciprocating saw to make a path for the new header. Saw the studs 11-1/2 in. down from the top plate and knock out the short stud sections with a hammer. Then cut off the nails with a nail nipper or reciprocating saw. You may also have to cut off a few sheathing and siding nails so they dont interfere with the header. After nailing in the king studs (Photo 1), set the header in place on the cutoff studs. Wedge the header tight to the top plate by driving shims between the cutoff studs and the header at each end. Cut a pair of trimmer studs for each end of the header and nail them in place with 16d nails (Photo 1).

Knock out the wall to create the new opening. First cut the sheathing and bottom plate along the framed opening. Then cut the wall into sections and push them out.

If you have vinyl, aluminum or steel siding, its probably easier to remove it from the entire garage wall and reinstall it after the addition is built. We cut the wood siding 2-1/2 in. beyond the width of the addition to allow for 1/2-in. wall sheathing and 2-in. inside corner boards. Pry off the siding and remove the wall (Photo 2).

In many garages, the walls rest on a block or concrete curb that has to be removed to create a continuous floor. We used an angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade to score the concrete block flush to the cutoff bottom plate on both sides of the opening. Then we broke out the concrete blocks between the trimmers with a sledgehammer. If you have a solid concrete curb, removing it will be a tougher job. Consider renting a concrete saw to score the entire length of the opening before breaking it out. Photo 6 shows how to patch the concrete after the plywood floor of the addition is in place.

Attach the ledger board to the garage foundation with concrete sleeve anchors. Temporarily support the ledger with wood stakes while you drill holes for the anchors.

Use a sleeve anchor or other heavy-duty anchor to hold the ledger.

Mark the posts level with the bottom of the ledger and cut them off. Put the cutoff posts back in the holes, but dont fill around them until youve built and squared the floor frame.

Start the floor frame by toenailing the joists to the ledger and nailing through the first rim joist into the floor joists. Then install the second rim joist and nail on the joist hangers. Square the frame and nail the two layers of plywood to the joists.

Fill the gap between the garage floor and the plywood bump-out floor with concrete. Drag a scrap of 24 over the concrete to level it. Then trowel it smooth when it begins to harden.

Start building the platform by bolting the ledger to the garage. Position the top edge of the ledger 1-1/2 in. below the garage floor in the center of the opening and level it, using temporary stakes for support. Attach it with 1/2-in. concrete sleeve anchors located 12 in. apart. Add two extra anchors at each end.

Next locate and mark the center of the footings (Figure A). Dig the footing holes and pour 8-in.-thick concrete pads into the bottom of each. After the concrete hardens, set treated 44 posts into the footing holes. At this point, youll know whether you need to remove soil in the area under the bump-out to make room for the joists. Make sure there are at least a few inches of clearance between the bottom of the joists and the ground.

The next step is to cut the posts to the correct length and build the platform. Use a level resting on a straight board to mark each post level with the bottom of the ledger board (Photo 4). Cut the posts at the marks and set them back into the holes. Complete the floor frame by cutting and assembling the floor joists and attaching the frame to the posts with metal post caps (Figure A). Finally, pack dirt around the posts and nail one layer of treated plywood and a second layer of BC plywood to the floor framing. If the surrounding soil is above the bottom of the joists, build a three-sided 26 dam and pack the soil against it. Dont attach the 2x6s to the joists. The goal is to prevent dirt from getting under the joists while allowing the 2x6s to move with the soil.

Build the walls on a flat surface like the garage floor. Stand them up on the bump-out floor and nail them to the floor and to the garage wall. Plumb and brace the front wall before installing the sheathing.

Build the walls on a flat surface like the garage floor. Start by cutting the top and bottom plates for the long wall and marking the stud locations on them. Use Figure A as a guide. Lay out the window opening to match the rough-opening dimensions provided by your window supplier. Assemble the wall by nailing the studs to the plates with 16d nails. Stand the wall on the platform, straighten the bottom plate and nail it to the rim joist. Plumb and brace the outside corners. Now measure from the new front wall to the existing garage wall at the top and bottom on each side and cut the plates for the short walls accordingly. If the existing garage wall isnt plumb, this procedure will ensure that the short walls will fit correctly.

Build the two short walls and set them in place on the platform. First position the walls and nail through the bottom plate into the floor with 16d nails. With a level, plumb the stud thats against the garage wall before nailing it to the wall. Align the corner studs on adjacent walls and nail them together. Finally, use a level to make sure the corner stud on the long wall is plumb and nail a diagonal brace to the inside of the wall (Photo 7). Complete the wall construction by adding the tie plates, making sure to cut them so they overlap the top plate at the corners.

Its easier to visualize and mark the roof rafter cuts if you mark them in place on the wall.

Make a rafter pattern by tacking a 26 to the garage wall, parallel to the garage roof, and drawing lines on it to indicate the center of the bump-out, the overhang distance and the birds-mouth cut. Use the pattern to mark and cut the rafters.

Tack a pair of rafters to the garage wall as a guide for cutting the siding. Place a 24 spacer between the top ends of the rafters to simulate the ridge. Remove the rafters and pry off the siding.

Temporarily support the ridge while you nail the rafters to it. Nail through the ridge into the rafters and toenail the rafters to the tie plate. Then reinforce the connection between the rafters and the tie plate with metal hurricane ties.

Complete the roof frame and fill in the gable end rafters. Then nail plywood over the roof frame.

For the best appearance, match the slopes of the addition and garage roofs. In Photo 8, we show a simple method of marking a 26 to use as a guide for making a pattern rafter. Figure C shows how to modify the marks to create a pattern rafter. Use the pattern to mark the remaining rafters. Photo 9 shows how to cut the siding using the rafters as a saw guide. We added a 3/8-in. shim under the rafters to allow a 1-3/4-in. gap between the roof framing and the siding cut (Photo 9). This provided enough room for 1/2-in. sheathing, two layers of dimensional shingles and a 3/4-in. space for the step flashing to slide into. Adjust the cut in your siding to correspond to the thickness of your roofing and sheathing material. Set the saw just deep enough to cut through the siding. When youre done cutting both sides, remove the rafters and pry off the siding in the area of the new roof.

Frame the roof using Figure A and Photos 10 and 11 as a guide. Nail through the ridge into the rafters and toenail the birds-mouth to the tie plate. Reinforce the connection between the rafters and the tie plate with metal hurricane ties. Then complete the roof frame by adding the 26 subfascia and building the side and end overhangs. Match the overhangs to the overhangs on the garage. When youre done with the roof frame, cut 1/2-in. sheathing to fit and nail it to the rafters.

Install the windows according to the manufacturers instructions. Layer self-adhesive flashing over the nailing fins as shown, making sure each layer overlaps the one below and that the final assembly will shed water over the top of the building paper below the window.

Shingle the roof. Install building paper and shingles according to local codes and the instructions on the shingle package. Slide galvanized metal step flashing under the siding and position it over the end shingle in each course.

At this point in the project, your garage addition will probably vary considerably from what we show here. In general, youll start by finishing the trim on the overhangs, including the soffit and fascia, with wood or metal to match your garage. Then install the roof shingles according to the manufacturers instructions. The key to a leak-proof roof is proper step flashing (Photo 13). We slid the flashing under the siding. But if youve removed the siding entirely, then simply install the step flashing with the shingles. Then install the siding over the flashing.

Install the window before the siding, being careful to flash around it with building paper or special self-adhesive window- flashing tape according to the manufacturers instructions (Photo 12). Finally, install siding to match your garage.

On the inside we added a few outlets and recessed ceiling lights. Then we insulated the walls and ceiling before hanging and taping the drywall.

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Link:
Get More Garage Storage With a Bump-Out Addition

Leominster Mayor Dean Mazzarella has recommended that instead of a renovation of the city's current police station, a new one should be built instead. (SENTINEL & ENTERPRISE / FILE PHOTO)

LEOMINSTER -- Members of the City Council were urged by Mayor Dean Mazzarella Monday night not to move forward with substantial renovations to the city's current police station and instead held an executive session to discuss several properties the city could acquire to build a new station.

Following a presentation of designs for how the existing station at 29 Church St. could be changed, Mazzarella told the council: "At the end of the day, it's probably not the recommendation. It's not the recommended approach."

Mazzarella also told the council that there are "two or three" sites being considered for construction of a new police station. The exact locations of these sites were not shared with the public as they were discussed during the meeting's closed executive session.

The three plans for adding onto the current Church Street station were presented by project architect Janet Slemenda of the firm HKT Architects. Options included building an addition on top of the department's garage, building additions on top of the department garage and administrative offices, or building on top of the municipal parking structure at the corner of Church Street and Merriam Avenue, which would then be connected to the current station.

Even with any of these proposed additions, Slemenda explained that the building would still not be able to meet the department's space needs.

Cost estimates of the project were not presented as they would have likely been outside the amounts the city is able to pay.

"Just adding a third floor would be the only way to fit the whole program, but the structural engineer couldn't even imagine the amount of money it would take to do that," Slemenda said. "The real question is 'Does it work for the police? Does it work for the community?' and I don't think it does."

Portions of an architectural review of the Church Street station that were presented by Slemenda suggested the building repair or replace its roofing, insulation, doors, and windows, as well as its mechanical, electrical, plumbing and fire protection systems.

Mazzarella later maintained that, despite the updates the building would need, it's still a "strong" building.

"It is a strong and stable building and is by no means ready for demolition by any stretch of the imagination," he said. "This is a strong, functioning building, but it does not function as a police department."

Though public discussion on the plans presented Monday night were limited among the council, councilors previously advocated for building a completely new station when they unanimously voted against converting the former National Plastics Center & Museum on Lancaster Street in December.

Mazzarella told the council that the city is moving forward with evaluating new locations and that a new design for a station won't be created until a site has been chosen.

"We're hoping to have a property identified and at least have a piece put down on a deposit by the first [day of 2018]," he said.

Follow Peter Jasinski on Twitter @PeterJasinski53.

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Leominster mayor recommends building new police station - Sentinel & Enterprise

Builder Magazine

Savvy Storage Tips for a Garage Builder Magazine Most homeowners could do with more storage space in the garage, where tools, bikes, and equipment all need their own designated space. With a couple small additions, Remodeling contributor Kacey Bradley says you can transform a client's garage into a ...

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Savvy Storage Tips for a Garage - Builder Magazine

My family (my wife, me and three grown sons) bought our cabin, two hours north of the Twin Cities off Hwy. 169, in 2000. The lake cabin was a combination of a new three-car garage with a spacious unfinished loft above and a tumbling down 1950s, two-bedroom/one bath example of a rustic Americana lakeshore retreat.

We turned the garage loft into a very comfortable getaway for us, with the boys and their friends sharing the old cabin.

Years went by, and our family expanded with three wonderful daughters-in-law and a bunch of beautiful, bright grandchildren. The dwellings were bursting at the seams. Something had to be done. We looked for a year for a suitable existing cabin on our beloved hard-bottom, clear lake. With four families now involved, we could not all agree that any of the properties we looked at were better than what we already had.

The rest is here:
Cabin project has taken considerable work, but jack hammer days are forgotten - Minneapolis Star Tribune