Vertical Only, heres the proof & truth!

Why and How Horizontals Wrong (and why Verticals right)...dont ruin new from the start:

1 Defective Seam - Horizontal rows needing more than one drywall panel creates (instead of avoids) butt-joint humps, which are not flat and are a twice (minimum) the effort defect. Outlet and switch cover-plates, window and door trim, baseboards, pictures, mirrors and cabinets dont sit flat. Using any "butt-joint product" erases all "claimed" benefits of Horizontal!

2 Unsupported Seam Horizontals tapered edge is 90% unsupported, only 10% (instead of Vertical's 100%) contacts framing, the seam will and does crack. Light switch and countertop electrical boxes within the seam equals more weakness and butt-joint doubled, minimum, efforts.

3 Structural Defect - Horizontal only reinforces a wall height of 4 or less, a full-height wall's top-plate is never connected to the bottom plate. As in and due to #2 above, Frictional Contact is minimized (instead of maximized by Vertical).

4 Seam Deception...4'x8' Panels Example 1: 48 tall by 102 long wall, Horizontal = 48 (technically) and its a 24 wide butt-joint or a minimum of doubling the 48" (Vertical = the same, generously, 96 but theyre easy 6 wide joints). Example 2: 96 tall by 102 long wall, Horizontal = 222 with 50% being 24 wide butts (Vertical = 192 of 6 wide easy joints, yes less)...in a Kitchen Horizontal = 100% of 24 wide butts (Vertical = 0%). Yes, Horizontal does the taper area twice (minimum) in order to hide its butts, so very minimally just another 24 was added and #5 below was not factored into Horizontal's monumental fraud.

5 Self-Defeating Angles Horizontal only uses one of a panels tapered edges and puts the other taper at the ceiling corner and baseboard creating (instead of avoiding like Vertical) a twisted angle that must be shimmed or additionally mudded. This too, instantly erases all "claimed" benefits of Horizontal by doubling the seam amount, patching itself to equal Vertical!

6 Unfriendly Seams Horizontal celebrates the chest height seam and pretends theres no 24-wide floor to ceiling butt-joint and the ever present baseboard bevel of unfinished work. (Vertical has easy joints and the top's screwed, taped and mudded later with the ceiling corner and the baseboard spots can also be done separately).

7 - Fire Hazard Liability - Horizontal only fills the coin-thin seam's face and has no back blocking, causing smoke and fires spread by inviting fuel air for a fire's growth (Vertical is full depth and airtight once simply screwed-in).

8 - Unsafe Installation - Horizontal needs 2-people for a safe installation and the panel is airborne, literally creating the chance to cause injury (Vertical easily tilts-up with just 1-person). Using a panel lifter isnt even as easy and safe as Verticals tilt-up.

9 - Additional Waste - When correctly covering a knee wall, half wall, tub front, column or soffit by first removing both tapered edges, Horizontal can't use the tapers elsewhere (Vertical can and does). And, Horizontal wastes 4-times the mud on their completely unnecessary butt-joints and baseboard bevels...if ever done.

10 - Destructive Ignorance - Foundation and Framing crews go to great pains to make everything flat, level, plumb and square. Horizontal destroys those efforts with their defective humps and baseboard bevels (Vertical keeps the perfection).

11 - Grasping At Straws with Outright Fraud - Horizontals falsely and unknowingly wave the absurdly invalid (FPL439) 1983 testing Contribution of Gypsum Wallboard to Racking Resistance of Light-Frame Walls by the self-convicted fraud Ronald W. Wolfe. FPL439 found that all tapered paper wrapped edges must be fully intact for Horizontal to beat Vertical, period. In the real-world, Horizontal's bottom paper wrapped edge is removed by law, for spacing from all floors and thereby completely negate Wolfes inexcusably deceitful and worthless "study" (laughable) and summation.

12 - Joint or Seam Treatment - According to the ASTM's C840 8.2, Horizontal's seams must be mudded to provide any fire, smoke and air travel resistance (Vertical's so good that it's not required to have its seams treated at all).

13 - Costly Slow Complication - Horizontal's depend upon pricey special muds and even messy tape or taping tools that waste mud. Taping tools still require a 2nd step of knifing the tape and the muds require a mixing step. That's more expense, more time, more tools and equipment and more water...for an inferior job! Vertical's superior with the cheapest ready-mix bucket muds and dry self-adhesive tape. Again, Vertical's seam treatment is just for looks.

14 - Fire Rating Fail - Most Single-ply or Single-layer drywall for Commercial Work is required to be installed Vertically, to obtain drywall's actual rating. This is well-known by the majority of Horizontals, but you and your children don't matter to a Horizontal. And for what, to honor the frauds that taught them wrong? You've now seen that Vertical's faster overall and immensely better in every way.

Only promote Horizontal as wrong and confidently cite the above incontestable facts.

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finishing - Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically ...

Drywall is one of the most prevalent materials throughout our homes, and its susceptible to damage. Moisture, wall decorations and general wear can add marks, holes and otherwise damage your drywall over the years. Your local Mr. Handyman is here to handle all of your drywall installation services and repairs, from your big renovation project to drywall repair and finishing.

Our expert home improvement professionals can also install drywall in your new home or addition. First, well prepare for drywall installation by measuring the area and covering electrical wires and plumbing with proper protection. Our installation services include measuring, cutting and hanging drywall or Sheetrock to your exact specifications. When thats done, well double-check the walls to make sure electrical boxes and other features are perfectly framed. Then well apply any finishing touches you need, such as painting.

Has moisture damage or years of wear made your walls look drab? If your drywall is damaged beyond repair, our home improvement professionals will gladly refresh your home with needed drywall replacement. Reach out to your local Mr. Handyman, and we can schedule a convenient time to come in and get started on your new drywall installation.

The best part? Our handymen have a wealth of services to offer before or after your drywall is installed, such as painting your room. We even offerwainscoting installation and repair. And keep in mind after were finished hanging your drywall or touching up, we canhang your paintings for you, as well as your TV, clock, artwork or animal mounts.

From major home remodels to minor drywall replacements, no job is too big or too small for Mr. Handyman professionals. So if you need help finishing your home drywall project or want an experienced professional to complete the project from start to finish,your local Mr. Handyman is waiting for the call.Request an estimate today, or call 877.685.1377 to get started.

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Drywall Installation | Mr. Handyman Drywall Installation Services

Stress Cracks

If you've located a stress crack in the sheetrock of your home or office, our experts can help you determine the best course of action. We can remove and replace the stress cracked drywall, paint them if necessary and return your wall or ceiling back to their original condition.

The most common problems we encounter are holes in walls and ceilings. Our professional crew will help you determine the safest and most cost effective way to repair the holes or replace entire sections of walls and ceilings. When we've finished, they'll be seamlessly repaired, painted and look as good as new.

If you're adding on to your home or finishing a basement, we also offer new drywall installation and finish work from frame through finish. We mask the work area to protecting floor surfaces, move your personal items out of the work area, and build dust control tenting as needed.

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Drywall Installation & Repair | Services | The Honey Do ...

Performance has built our business

Whether you want subtlety of design or eye-catching textures and unparalleled functionality, the crew at Morris Drywall is ready to offer our diverse range of capabilities to your next construction project. We offer a full suite of residential and commercial drywall and metal stud framing services to our clients in Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, and more. We focus on a variety of contracting and construction services to meet all of our clients needs. Whether you have a small project or a 20 story building, Morris Drywall has the equipment and expertise to provide superior customer service and the highest quality building materials at a competitive price.

At Morris Drywall, we are committed to exceptionally thorough, cost-effective, and beautifully crafted work on jobs of all sizes. We take great pride in developing long-lasting relationships with our customers that help us become an integral part of the thriving business communities of East Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, and beyond. For more information on our drywall contractor, metal stud framing, and specialty ceiling installation services, contact Morris Drywall today.

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Drywall Installation & Metal Stud Framing | Morris Drywall ...

Are you in need of professional drywall services in Mishawaka and South Bend, IN? That's a broad question, to be sure, but one that bears asking since it is so often misunderstood. After all, working with drywall is so often perceived as being so simple, so simple in fact, that many people are tempted to handle drywall projects themselves, especially when the job to be called for involves a small area or simply hanging a few sheets. The trouble with this is that there is so much more to it than meets the eye. At Mishawaka Drywall we have been in the business for several years, which brings to us a level of professionalism that few can match.

At Mishawaka Drywall, we know drywall better than anyone else in South Bend, IN. Whether you are building a new home, remodeling an existing home, or just making repairs, Mishawaka Drywall is your best choice for your drywall jobs in Mishawaka, Indiana. Drywall is a skill that we have mastered after many years of training and experience. As a result, when you view the work done by other drywall companies and then the work of Mishawaka Drywall, you will recognize the difference instantly. This not only applies to the drywall work we do, but also to work that most people would not normally associate with drywall, since at Mishawaka Drywall we do other construction-related work such as soundproof drywall, t-bar ceilings and much more.

Working with drywall is a multi-faceted business. There are so many aspects of practically any job that it is difficult to master each one. Fortunately, our professionals drywall teams are trained to execute even the most difficult and demanding finishes, including slick wall, custom hand trowel, and true Venetian plasters, and much more. This qualifies them when a job calls for these skills and more. It doesn't matter whether it's a drywall installation or a drywall repair. We can do the job, and we will meet or exceed your expectations the first time around. In fact, this is the way we earn most of our work, by simply doing our best work for each and every one of our customers. They, in turn, tell their friends, neighbors and coworkers about our company and our services.

Mishawaka Drywall: The Whole Job Done Right

For anyone who has never seen drywall being hung, it doesn't take long to figure out that it's not always an easy job. Not only must the drywall be put up with precision, but taping so that you achieve a smooth and complete finish can be as difficult as well. This is why, whether you are installing new drywall or making a drywall repair, the knowledge, expertise, and experience of the drywall contractors is so important. At Mishawaka Drywall, our experience in second-to-none. Each one of our craftsmen is not only trained in what he does, but also has in many cases, years of hands-on experience to handle every job he does.

It doesn't matter how hard you try, from time to time accidents happen that cause damage to your drywall. Unfortunately, the conventional thought is that whenever this occurs, an entire section of drywall must be replaced. This isn't true. Instead, for a professional drywall contractor, drywall repairs are just a part of the business that sometimes needs to be done. For Mishawaka Drywall, affordable drywall repair is part of the reason that we are in business. If you have a repair to make on your drywall, call us. You can rest assured that when you trust us to a repair, your work is in the hands of the very best.

We know that not every job is going to be the installation of drywall for a new home or even a remodel. Sometimes, it's a small and simple repair that needs to be done. The tendency of most people is to assume that no big drywall contractor would be inclined to take such a job, and that most drywall contractors couldnt be bothered with a small job. The good news in this is that Mishawaka Drywall we don't consider ourselves too big to take on small jobs as well as the big ones. The trouble with small jobs is that many homeowners attempt to make the repair themselves. This most often results in a look that is unprofessional and often needs additional work to cover the intended repair. And while it is true that many a drywall and taping corporation wouldn't take on such a job, we consider it an obligation to do just as professional a job of small repairs as on large installations in South Bend, Indiana.

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Drywall Installation & Repair in Mishawaka, IN - Best ...

Home > Home Improvement > Drywall & Insulation > Drywall Cost

Drywall, also known as wallboard, plasterboard, or sheetrock, is widely used in the construction of interior residential walls and ceilings. Made from sheets of pressed gypsum (gypsum is a type of mineral), drywall took the place of plaster as a wall-building material in the mid-twentieth century.

Drywall is mass-produced and therefore cheap. It's also easy to install and simple to repair, even as a DIY project. Professional drywall installation costs more, but a pair of pros can finish an entire room in an hour or less. If you've never worked with drywall, all you need to tackle the job are a few hand tools and some patience (getting it right takes practice). A how-to guide also wouldn't hurt for the first-time drywaller. The following resources should provide all the information you need to hang "rock" like a pro:

Drywall was a big step up from plaster, as it provided a much faster way to cover ceilings and walls. But the material does have one weakness: it's easily damaged. Wall-hangings, doorknobs, and overzealous children are common causes of broken drywall, although there are endless ways that damage can occur. Cracks and nail holes can be fixed with joint compound alone, while more extensive damage requires buying a sheet or two of drywall and some tape. As with installation, hiring a pro is faster but costlier. If you're intent on performing the repair yourself, these sites are a good starting point:

Whether you plan on installing or repairing drywall yourself or hiring a pro, keep the following points in mind:

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2018 Average Drywall Installation Prices: How Much Does ...

Drywall (also known as plasterboard, wallboard, gypsum panel, sheet rock, or gypsum board) is a panel made of calcium sulfate dihydrate (gypsum), with or without additives, typically extruded between thick sheets of facer and backer paper, utilized in the construction of interior walls and ceilings.[1] The plaster is mixed with fiber (typically paper and/or fibreglass or asbestos), plasticizer, foaming agent, and various additives that can decrease mildew, increase fire resistance, and lower water absorption.

Drywall construction became prevalent in North America as a speedier alternative to traditional lath and plaster.[2]

The first plasterboard plant in the UK was opened in 1888 in Rochester, Kent.[citation needed] Sackett Board was invented in 1894 by Augustine Sackett and Fred Kane, graduates of Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. It was made by layering plaster within four plies of wool felt paper. Sheets were 36"36"1/4" (9149146.4mm) thick with open (untaped) edges.[3]

Gypsum board evolved between 1910 and 1930 beginning with wrapped board edges and elimination of the two inner layers of felt paper in favor of paper-based facings. In 1910 United States Gypsum Corporation bought Sackett Plaster Board Company and by 1917 came out with a product they called Sheetrock.[4] Providing efficiency of installation, it was developed additionally as a measure of fire resistance.[5] Later air entrainment technology made boards lighter and less brittle, then joint treatment materials and systems also evolved.[3] Rock lath (gypsum lath) was an early substrate for plaster. An alternative to traditional wood or metal lath, it was a panel made up of compressed gypsum plaster board that was sometimes grooved or punched with holes to allow wet plaster to key into its surface. As it evolved, it was faced with paper impregnated with gypsum crystals that bonded with the applied facing layer of plaster.[6]

In 2002 the European Commission imposed fines totaling 478 million on the companies Lafarge, BPB, and Gyproc Benelux, which had operated a cartel on the market which affected 80% of consumers in France, the United Kingdom, Germany and the Benelux countries.[7]

A wallboard panel consists of a layer of gypsum plaster sandwiched between two layers of paper. The raw gypsum, CaSO42 H2O, is heated to drive off the water then slightly rehydrated to produce the hemihydrate of calcium sulfate (CaSO4 H2O). The plaster is mixed with fibre (typically paper and/or fibreglass), plasticizer, foaming agent, finely ground gypsum crystal as an accelerator, EDTA, starch or other chelate as a retarder, various additives that may decrease mildew and increase fire resistance, and wax emulsion or silanes for lower water absorption. The board is then formed by sandwiching a core of the wet mixture between two sheets of heavy paper or fibreglass mats. When the core sets it is then dried in a large drying chamber, and the sandwich becomes rigid and strong enough for use as a building material.

Drying chambers typically use natural gas today. To dry 1 MSF (1,000 square feet (93m2)) of wallboard, between 1,750,000 and 2,490,000BTU (1,850,000 and 2,630,000kJ) is required. Organic dispersants/plasticisers are used so the slurry will flow during manufacture, and to reduce the water and hence the drying time.[8] Coal-fired power stations include devices called scrubbers to remove sulphur from their exhaust emissions. The sulphur is absorbed by powdered limestone in a process called flue-gas desulphurization (FGD), which produces a number of new substances. One is called "FGD gypsum". This is commonly used in drywall construction in the United States and elsewhere.[9][10]

Drywall panels in the United States are manufactured in 48-inch (1.2m), 54-inch (1.4m) and 96-inch (2.4m) wide panels in varying lengths to suit the application, though 48-inch is by far the most common width. Lengths up to 16 feet (4.9 m) are commonly available, though the most common length is 8 feet (2.4 m). Common panel thicknesses are 12-inch (13mm) and 58-inch (16mm), with panels also available in 14-inch (6.4mm), 38-inch (9.5mm), 3/4-inch (19.0mm) and 1-inch (25.4mm) for specific applications.

In Europe plasterboard is manufactured in metric sizes, with the common sizes being corollaries of old imperial sizes. Most plasterboard is made in 120cm-wide sheets, though 90cm and 60cm wide sheets are also made. 120cm wide plasterboard is most commonly made in 240cm lengths, though 250, 260, 270, 280, 300cm and even longer (if ordered) are commonly available. Thicknesses of plasterboard available are 9.5mm to 25mm.[11]

Plasterboard is commonly made with one of three different edge treatments: tapered edge, where the long edges of the board are tapered with a wide bevel at the front to allow for jointing materials to be finished flush with the main board face; plain edge, used where the whole surface will receive a thin coating (skim coat) of finishing plaster; and, finally, beveled on all four sides, used in products specialized for roofing. However, four-side chamfered drywall is not currently offered by major UK manufacturers for general use.

The term plasterboard is used in Australia and New Zealand.[12] Both countries use the metric system in building, and plasterboard is manufactured in thicknesses of 10mm, 13mm, and 16mm, and sometimes other thicknesses up to 25mm. Panels are commonly sold in 12002400mm, 12004800mm, and 12006000mm sheets. Sheets are usually secured to either a timber or cold-formed steel frames anywhere from 150 to 300mm centres along the beam and 400 to 600mm across members.

Various companies, such as Boral and CSR, manufacture plasterboard under various brand names including Gyprock.

As an alternative to a week-long plaster application, an entire house can be drywalled in one or two days by two experienced drywallers, and drywall is easy enough to use that it can be installed by many amateur home carpenters. In large-scale commercial construction, the work of installing and finishing drywall is often split between the drywall mechanics, or hangers, who install the wallboard, and the tapers and mudmen, or float crew, who finish the joints and cover the fastener heads with drywall compound.[citation needed] Dry wall can be finished anywhere from a level 0 to a level 5, where 0 is not finished in any fashion and 5 is the most "pristine". Depending on how significant the finish is to the customer the extra steps in the finish may or may not be necessary, though priming and painting of drywall is recommended in any location where it may be exposed to any wear.

Drywall is cut to size, using a large T-square, by scoring the paper on the finished side (usually white) with a utility knife, breaking the sheet along the cut, and cutting the paper backing. Small features such as holes for outlets and light switches are usually cut using a keyhole saw or a small high-speed bit in a rotary tool. Drywall is then fixed to the wall structure with nails or drywall screws and often glue. Drywall fasteners, also referred to as drywall clips or stops, are gaining popularity in both residential and commercial construction. Drywall fasteners are used for supporting interior drywall corners and replacing the non-structural wood or metal blocking that traditionally was used to install drywall. Their function serves to save on material and labour expenses, to minimize call-backs due to truss uplift, to increase energy efficiency, and to make plumbing and electrical installation simpler.

Drywall screws heads have a curved taper, which allows them to self-pilot and install rapidly without having to be punched through the paper cover. When finished driving, these screws are countersunk slightly into the drywall. Screws for light-gauge steel framing have an acute point and finely spaced threads. If the steel framing is heavier than 20-gauge, self-tapping screws with finely spaced threads must be used. In some applications, the drywall may be attached to the wall with adhesives.

After the sheets are secured to the wall studs or ceiling joists, the installer conceals the seams between drywall sheets with 'joint tape' and several layers of 'joint compound' (sometimes called 'mud'), typically spread with a taping knife or putty knife. This compound is also applied to any screw holes or defects. The compound is allowed to air dry then typically sanded smooth before painting. Alternatively, for a better finish, the entire wall may be given a 'skim coat', a thin layer (about 1mm or 1/16inch) of finishing compound, to minimize the visual differences between the paper and mudded areas after painting.

Another similar skim coating is always done in a process called veneer plastering, although it is done slightly thicker (about 2mm or 1/8inch). Veneering uses a slightly different specialized setting compound ("finish plaster") that contains gypsum and lime putty. This application uses blueboard, which has special treated paper to accelerate the setting of the gypsum plaster component. This setting has far less shrinkage than the air-dry compounds normally used in drywall, so it only requires one coat. Blueboard also has square edges rather than the tapered-edge drywall boards. The tapered drywall boards are used to countersink the tape in taped jointing whereas the tape in veneer plastering is buried beneath a level surface. One coat veneer plaster over dry board is an intermediate style step between full multi-coat "wet" plaster and the limited joint-treatment-only given "dry" wall.

The method of installation and type of drywall can reduce sound transmission through walls and ceilings. Several builders' books state that thicker drywall reduces sound transmission, but engineering manuals recommend using multiple layers of drywall, sometimes of different thicknesses and glued together, or special types of drywall designed to reduce noise.[13] Also important are the construction details of the framing with steel studs, wider stud spacing, double studding, insulation, and other details reducing sound transmission. Sound transmission class (STC) ratings can be increased from 33 for an ordinary stud-wall to as high as 59 with double 1/2" drywall on both sides of a wood stud wall with resilient channels on one side and fiberglass batt insulation between the studs.[14]

Sound transmission may be slightly reduced using regular 58-inch panels (with or without light-gauge resilient metal channels and/or insulation), but it is more effective to use two layers of drywall, sometimes in combination with other factors, or specially designed, sound-resistant drywall.[15]

Drywall is highly vulnerable to moisture due to the inherent properties of the materials that comprise it: gypsum, paper, and organic additives and binders. Gypsum will soften with exposure to moisture, and eventually turn to a gooey paste with prolonged immersion, such as during a flood. During such incidents, some or all of the drywall in an entire building may need to be removed and replaced. Furthermore, the paper facings and organic additives mixed with the gypsum core are food for mold.

The porosity of the boardintroduced during manufacturing to reduce the weight of the board, lowering construction time and transportation costsenables water to rapidly reach the core through capillary action, where mold can grow inside. Water that enters a room from overhead may cause ceiling drywall tape to separate from the ceiling as a result of the grooves immediately behind the tape where the drywall pieces meet becoming saturated. The drywall may also soften around the screws holding the drywall in place and with the aid of gravity, the weight of the water may cause the drywall to sag and eventually collapse, requiring replacement.

Drywall's paper facings are edible to termites, which can eat the paper if they are infesting a wall cavity that is covered with drywall. This causes the painted surface to crumble to the touch, its paper backing material having been eaten. In addition to the necessity of patching the damaged surface and repainting, if enough of the paper has been eaten, the gypsum core can easily crack or crumble without it and the drywall must be removed and replaced.

In many circumstances, especially when the drywall has been exposed to water or moisture for less than 48 hours, professional restoration experts familiar with structural drying methodologies can introduce rapid drying techniques designed to eliminate necessary elements required to support microbial activity while also restoring most or all of the drywall and thus avoiding the cost, inconvenience, and difficulty of removing and replacing the affected drywall.

It is for these reasons that greenboard[16] and ideally cement board are used for rooms expected to have high humidity, primarily kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms.

A substantial amount of defective drywall was imported into the United States from China and incorporated into tens of thousands of homes during rebuilding in 2006 and 2007 following Hurricane Katrina and in other places. Complaints included foul odour, health effects, and corrosion of metal within the structure. This is caused by the emission of sulphurous gases. The same drywall was sold in Asia without problems resulting,[citation needed] but U.S. homes are built much more tightly than homes in China, with less ventilation. Volatile sulphur compounds, including hydrogen sulphide, have been detected as emissions from the imported drywall and may be linked to health problems. These compounds are emitted from many different types of drywall.

A number of lawsuits are underway in many jurisdictions, but many of the sheets of drywall are simply marked, "Made in China", thus making identification of the manufacturer difficult. An investigation by the Consumer Product Safety Commission, CPSC, was underway in 2009.[17] In November 2009, the CPSC reported a "strong association" between Chinese drywall and corrosion of pipes and wires reported by thousands of homeowners in the United States. The issue was resolved in 2011 and now all drywall must be tested for volatile sulfur and any containing more than 10 ppm is unable to be sold in the US.

Drywall is made primarily from gypsum (CaSO42H2O). As its chemical formula shows, gypsum contains chemically combined water (approximately 50% by volume). When gypsum panels are exposed to fire, heat is absorbed as a portion of the combined water is driven off as steam. This chemical process is called calcination. The thermal energy that converts the water to steam is thus diverted and absorbed, keeping the opposite side of the gypsum panels cool as long as there is crystalline water left to be converted into steam or until the gypsum panel is breached. In the case of regular gypsum board, as the crystalline water is driven off, the reduction of volume within the gypsum core causes large cracks to form, eventually causing the panel to fail due to loss of structural integrity. This is similar to the cracking that can be observed in a dry lake or river bed.[18]

When used as a component in fire barriers, drywall is a passive fire protection item. In its natural state, gypsum contains the water of crystallization bound in the form of hydrates. When exposed to heat or fire, this water is vaporized, over a range of temperatures from 80 to 170C (see calcium sulphate), retarding heat transfer until the water in the gypsum is gone. This makes drywall an ablative material because as the hydrates sublime, a crumbly dust is left behind, which, along with the paper, is sacrificial. Generally, the more layers of Type X drywall one adds, the more one increases the fire-resistance of the assembly, up to four hours for walls and three hours for ceilings.[19] Evidence of this can be found both in publicly available design catalogues, including DIN 4102 Part 4 and the Canadian Building Code on the topic, as well as common certification listings, including certification listings provided by Underwriters Laboratories and Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC). "Type X" drywall is formulated by adding glass fibres to the gypsum, to increase the resistance to fires, especially once the hydrates are spent, which leaves the gypsum in powder form. Type X is typically the material chosen to construct walls and ceilings that are required to have a fire-resistance rating.

Fire testing of drywall assemblies for the purpose of expanding national catalogues, such as the National Building Code of Canada, Germany's Part 4 of DIN4102 and its British cousin BS476, are a matter of routine research and development work in more than one nation and can be sponsored jointly by national authorities and representatives of the drywall industry. For example, the National Research Council of Canada routinely publishes such findings.[20] The results are printed as approved designs in the back of the building code. Generally, exposure of drywall on a panel furnace removes the water and calcines the exposed drywall and also heats the studs and fasteners holding the drywall. This typically results in deflection of the assembly towards the fire, as that is the location where the sublimation occurs, which weakens the assembly, due to the fire influence.

Cosponsored tests result in code recognized designs with assigned fire-resistance ratings. The resulting designs become part of the code and are not limited to use by any one manufacturer. However, individual manufacturers may also have proprietary designs that they have had third-party tested and approved. This is provided that the material used in the field configuration can be demonstrated to meet the minimum requirements of Type X drywall (such as an entry in the appropriate category of the UL Building Materials Directory or in the Gypsum Association Fire Resistance and Sound Control Design Manual) and that sufficient layers and thicknesses are used. Fire test reports for such unique third party tests are confidential but may be made available to code officials upon special request.

It's important to consider deflection of drywall assemblies to maintain their assembly integrity to preserve their ratings. Deflection of drywall assemblies can vary somewhat from one test to another. Importantly, penetrants do not follow the deflection movement of the drywall assemblies they penetrate. For example, see cable tray movement in a German test. It is, therefore, important to test firestops in full scale wall panel tests, so that the deflection of each applicable assembly can be taken into account.

The size of the test wall assembly alone is not the only consideration for firestop tests. If the penetrants are mounted to and hung off the drywall assembly itself during the test, this does not constitute a realistic deflection exposure insofar as the firestop is concerned. In reality, on a construction site, penetrants are hung off the ceiling above. Penetrants may increase in length, push and pull as a result of operational temperature changes (e.g., hot and cold water in a pipe), particularly in a fire. But it is a physical impossibility to have the penetrants follow the movement of drywall assemblies that they penetrate, since they are not mounted to the drywalls in a building.

It is, therefore, counterproductive to suspend penetrants from the drywall assembly during a fire test. As downward deflection of the drywall assembly and buckling towards the fire occurs, the top of the firestop is squeezed and the bottom of the firestop is pulled. This is motion above that caused by expansion of metallic penetrants due to heat exposure in a fire. Both types of motion occur because metal first expands in a fire, and then softens once the critical temperature has been reached, as is explained under structural steel. To simulate the drywall deflection effect, one can simply mount the penetrants to the steel frame holding the test assembly. The operational and fire-induced motion of the penetrants, which is independent of the assemblies penetrated, can be separately arranged.

Drywall provides a thermal resistance R-value (in US units) of 0.32 for 38-inch board, 0.45 for 12-inch, 0.56 for 58-inch, and 0.83 for 1-inch board. In addition to increased R-value, thicker drywall has a higher sound transmission class.[21][citation needed]

In Type X gypsum board, special glass fibers are intermixed with the gypsum to reinforce the core of the panels. These fibers have theeffect of reducing the size of the cracks that form as the water is driven off, thereby extending the length of time the gypsum panels resist fire without failure.[18]

Type C gypsum panels provide even greater fire resistance than Type X. As with the Type X panels, the core of the Type C panels contains glass fibers, only in a much higher percent by weight. In addition to the greater amount of glass fiber, the core of the Type C panels also contains vermiculite, which acts as a shrinkage-compensating additive that expands when exposed to elevated temperatures of a fire. This expansion occurs at roughly the same temperature as the calcination of the gypsum in the core. It allows the core of the Type C panels to remain dimensionally stable in the presence of fire, which in turn allows the panels to remain in place for a longer period of time even after the combined water has been driven off.[18]

North America is one of the largest gypsum board users in the world with a total wallboard plant capacity of 42,000,000,000 square feet (3.9109m2) per year (worldwide 85,000,000,000 square feet (7.9109m2) per year).[22] Moreover, the homebuilding and remodeling markets in North America in the late 1990s and early 2000s increased demand. The gypsum board market was one of the biggest beneficiaries of the housing boom as "an average new American home contains more than 7.31 metric tons of gypsum."[23]

The introduction in March 2005 of the Clean Air Interstate Rule by the United States Environmental Protection Agency requires power plants to "cut sulfur dioxide emissions by 73%" by 2018.[24] The Clean Air Interstate Rule also requested that the power plants install new scrubbers (industrial pollution control devices) to remove sulfur dioxide present in the output waste gas. Scrubbers use the technique of flue-gas desulfurization (FGD), which produces synthetic gypsum as a usable by-product. In response to the new supply of this raw material, the gypsum board market was predicted to shift significantly. However, issues such as mercury release during calcining need to be resolved.[25]

Because up to 12% of drywall is wasted during the manufacturing and installation processes and the drywall material is frequently not re-used, disposal can become a problem. Some landfill sites have banned the dumping of drywall. Some manufacturers take back waste wallboard from construction sites and recycle it into new wallboard. Recycled paper is typically used during manufacturing. More recently, recycling at the construction site itself is being researched. There is potential for using crushed drywall to amend certain soils at building sites, such as sodic clay and silt mixtures (bay mud), as well as using it in compost.[31] As of 2016, industry standards are being developed to ensure that when and if wallboard is taken back for recycling, quality and composition are maintained.

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Drywall - Wikipedia

Steps // How to Hang Drywall

1Hanging Drywall Overview

Step One // How to Hang Drywall

Illustration by Gregory Nemec

Despite their drab, if-youve-seen-one-youve-seen-them-all appearance, these flat sandwiches of gypsum plaster and recycled newsprint come in a variety of types and sizes to suit the specific demands of a job. There are 14-inch-thick flexible panels to cover a curved wall or ceiling and 58-inch-thick abuse-resistant panels that are less likely to develop holes or dents. Greenboard keeps its integrity in the face of high humidity, making it a good choice for bathrooms. Type X resists fire, making it well-suited to furnace rooms and between-floor chases. Massachusetts contractor Paul Landry often installs blueboard, so-called because of its indigo paper. It bonds tenaciously with veneer plaster, a finish much in demand in Landrys area. The light-gray product known as drywall is the type in widest use.

When butted end-to-end, its factory-beveled lengthwise edges form a shallow swale for a topping of joint compound and tape. Half-inch is the preferred thickness for walls and ceilings; 58-inch works best if studs or joists are 24 inches apart, where thinner drywall would sag. The sheets most commonly available in hardware stores measure 4 by 8 feet, but lengths can reach up to 16 feet and widths up to 54 inches, which speeds the installation and minimizes the number of seams. Bigger panels have their downside, however: Theyre heavy and unwieldy. A 12-foot sheet of -inch drywall weighs about 80 pounds, nearly 30 pounds more than a standard 8-foot panel. Thats why manufacturers have developed 38-inch thick gypsum panels that weighs 16 percent less than standard sheets. These, however, are used only to cover existing drywall.

PLANNING AHEAD

2Measure and cut drywall for the ceiling

Step Two // How to Hang Drywall

4Using rotary cut-out tool

Step Four // How to Hang Drywall

6Trim around doors and windows

Step Six // How to Hang Drywall

7Make inside and outside corners

Step Seven // How to Hang Drywall

8How to keep studs in line

Step Eight // How to Hang Drywall

Illustration by Gregory Nemec

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How to Hang Drywall | Drywalling Tips | This Old House

Intro to how to drywallPhoto 1: Fasten backers at corners

Fasten wood backing wherever drywall ends have no support within 4 in. Make sure to check corners and ceiling/wall joints.

Measure from the end of the ceiling to the middle of a joist and cut the sheet to length. End cuts should split framing members. Gaps at ends and splices should be less than 1/4 in. Mark fastening guidelines every 16 in. from end of sheet with a drywall square. Cut overall lengths 1/4 in. shorter for easier fitting.

Be bold! You dont need a truckload of tools, the mind of a rocket scientist or an Arnold Schwarzenegger-like physique to hang drywall. You just need to get familiar with the fundamentals for how to install drywall to gain the confidence to tackle the job yourself.

Drywall is one of the easiest-to-use and cheapest construction materials in the world. Even a serious mistake will make you chuckle, knowing youve wasted little time and probably less than five bucks. And the money you save handling the task yourself will come in handy for furnishing that new room.

Hanging rock (short for Sheetrock) doesnt require a lot of finesse, but it is heavy work. But if you have a strong back and you can climb four steps without wheezing, dont be afraid to tackle one, two or even three rooms on your own. Its sometimes hard to interest a pro in hanging just a room or two, or even get on the schedule. And youll pay hundreds of dollars for the privilege. Besides, defining and covering the walls with a finished material can be satisfying.

This how to install drywall article will demonstrate the basics of hanging drywall. If you do a good job of hanging it, the drywall can be taped and finished smoothly and easily. Taping refers to the process of filling fastener holes, applying joint tape and three layers of taping compound to seams and corners, and then sanding. Poor hanging techniques make it difficult for even a seasoned taper to deliver a flat, uncracked surface thats free of nail pops and ready for paint. Well show you the techniques and tools the pros use to get thehow to install drywall job done fast and in a way that makes taping as painless as possible.

Follow these relatively simple steps for how to install drywall and enjoy that new bedroom, family room or, if youre really lucky, billiard room!

The pros never secure drywall with nails anymore, and neither should you. Screws anchor the rock solidly to the framing, do less damage to the paper face, and are less likely to cause fastener pops down the road. Nail pops are a nuisance to fix and generally wont appear until after youve applied the final coat of paint.

A drywall screw gun is a high-speed, low-torque drill specifically adapted for installing drywall (Photo 11). With an adjustable nosing, it sets screws very quickly at precisely the correct depth. It may be worth buying if youre planning to hang a lot of drywall. If you decide to rent, plan to tack up all the drywall with as few nails as possible, then screw off all the rock at the same time to save rental fees. There are various styles of adapters and attachments for converting conventional drills into screw guns, but the results arent as good. There is no substitute for a drywall screw gun.

Most drywalling calls for three basic types and thicknesses of material:

Door and window jambs and electrical outlets are usually set up for 1/2-in. drywall, so check to confirm. Three-eighths-inch and 1/4-in. are available as well but are rarely used except on curved wall surfaces or areas where thinner rock is required. For example, if youre patching old plaster walls, 3/8-in. may be the only thickness that will match the depth of the plaster.

Drywall usually comes in either 48 or 412 sizes. If you live in an area large enough to support a commercial supplier, itll offer more variety than an average lumberyard. It may have 9-, 10- and 14-ft. lengths, 54-in. widths for 9-ft. ceilings and odd things like flexible drywall for curved surfaces. Drywall lengths dont radically affect overall material cost. If you think you can handle 12-ft. sheets (and if theyll fit through the stairwells), theyre the way to go. Youll have far less waste and fewer seams to tape. Keep in mind that a 48 sheet weighs 55 lbs. and a 12-footer about 82 lbs.

Measure the length needed and score the paper face with a utility knife, using a drywall square as a straightedge.

Snap the sheet, fold it open and cut through the paper on the backside.

Smooth rough edges on cut ends with aSurform tool to ensure tight joints.

This is your last chance to fix any problems that will soon be hidden behind finished walls. Have leaky plumbing repaired and install (or have installed) any additional electrical outlets or switches, dedicated computer modem lines or outlets, and phone jacks. This is also the time to add any missing drywall backers (Photo 1). Youll need to support any ends that are unsupported for more than 4 in.

Estimate materials by adding up total surface areas and dividing by square feet per sheet. A 48 sheet will cover 32 sq. ft. and a 412 sheet will cover 48 sq. ft. Dont deduct for doors and windows unless theyre very large. I usually order just enough to do the job. Id rather go out for a few more sheets than get stuck with extra rock. It doesnt store well and the garbologists arent fond of finding 48 sheets on the curb next to your trash can.

While small quantities are easily carried in a pickup, large quantities (12-ft. sheets, or more than 10 sheets of any size) are best delivered. A good-sized rooms worth of rock can weigh as much as a small beluga whale!

Discount lumberyards and home centers will usually deliver for a fee, but theyll only send out one person, and youll have to help unload the truck. The driver will probably help you carry sheets into the garage, but thats about it. Contractor-oriented full-service lumberyards and commercial drywall suppliers will charge more per sheet, but theyll unload the truck and haul the rock into the rooms youre going to hang. A boom truck (a truck with a small crane for lifting) may even be available for second-floor deliveries if there is a door or window opening large enough to feed sheets through. Coordinate this with your lumberyard, making sure you both understand site specifics, manpower requirements and available equipment.

Set down the drywall with the finished sides facing you. This is the side youll want to lay out on and cut from. It should be stacked on edge and evenly supported. Drywall warps quickly and isnt easily straightened.

Save your back and rent a drywall lift for a day. A lift is fantastic if youre shorthanded or installing 12-ft. sheets. It disassembles easily, weighs about 75 lbs. and will fit in a minivan or small pickup. A lift makes it possible to hang rock solo, but its still nice to have a helper for loading the rock onto the lift. A lift tilts from vertical to horizontal. Wheels allow you to roll it up to the drywall stack, load a sheet onto the rack, roll it back into position and crank the sheet up into place. Although a lift can also be used for wall placement, its strong suit is ceilings.

Highly Recommended:

Nice-to-have stuff:

Hoist the ceiling sheets overhead and tack them into place using a crutch made of 2x2s to support the lions share of the weight. Prenail and position the sheet, tacking it to the joists.

Measure the distance from a wall corner to the center of a framing member, also recording distances for cutouts and door and window openings. Avoid placing joints over doors and window corners, where they may crack.

Cut window and door notches from a single sheet by sawing sides with a drywall saw. A keyhole saw is slower, but it is an acceptable substitute for long cuts.

Score the third side of the notch with a utility knife, snap the section loose and complete the cut from the backside.

For quick rip cuts, drag your utility knife behind the T-square as you slide it along the top (nestle the blade of the knife against the ruler part of the square).

Lift the top wall sheet, holding it tight against the ceiling, and tack it into place with nails. Dont forget to mark fastener guidelines before lifting.

Measure electrical box cutouts from all four sides. Check all layout measurements twice before cutting!

Transfer measurements to the drywall and cut the outlet box openings with a keyhole saw.

Heres where youll appreciate the ease of working with drywall. After scoring the front side with your utility knife, simply snap it open like a dime novel. One last cut along the back edge of the sheet and youre in business.

Professionals always do the lids (ceilings) first. That way, the wall pieces support the ceiling pieces. Now a word for you rookies: Hanging drywall over your head is no fun. Drywall is heavy, awkward and hard to get into position. To make the job somewhat easier, make a crutch (Photo 3). To make it a lot easier, pony up for a drywall lift.

Next, hang the top wall row. This should be pushed tight against the ceiling before fastening (Photo 7). Never break joints at the edge of a window or door. These seams will eventually crack, and the buildup of taping materials will make installing casing difficult.

After installing the top layer, lift in the bottom sheets. Foot lifts work great for prying that bottom row tight against the top row (Photo 10). That all-purpose flat bar will do the job nearly as well.

Whenever I hang drywall, Im always surprised at just how small those doggone switchplate covers are (although larger ones are available if you need them). Take special care in planning and sawing cutouts for electrical boxes (Photos 8 and 9) because if you miss, that oversized outlet hole is a bear to fix. Fixing a poorly cut or overcut hole is tricky, and the repair will never look quite right.

Although we dont show one in use here, pros now use spiral saws to cut openings for outlets, lights and even doors and windows. The basic idea is easy: Just mark the approximate center of the outlet or light, hang the sheet of drywall, and then poke the thin spiral bit through the center mark and follow the edge of the fixture all the way around. For door and window openings, hang the sheet across the opening and then follow the framing with the spiral bitno measuring required, and you get a perfect cut every time. Of course it takes a little practice to get the hang of the tool, it kicks up a lot of dust, and the basic tool costs $70 to $100, but if youre doing more than one room it may be worth the investment. For more information, see How to Use a Spiral Saw on Drywall

Hoist bottom row with a foot lift or flat bar and tack into place. If an opening needs small adjustments, shave the edges with your utility knife.

If you dont have a foot lift handy, just use a flat bar. You may need to use a piece of wood under the flat bar for more leverage.

Screw ceiling and walls with a screw gun. Set screws and nails slightly below the surface of the paper, being careful not to break through into the gypsum core. To hide the fasteners, position them close to openings around windows and doors so trim will cover them.

Selecting fasteners is simple. Use 1-1/4 in. fasteners for 1/2-in. rock and 1-5/8 in. fasteners for 5/8-in. rock. Longer is not better. This might be hard to believe, but longer screws and nails are more prone to nail pops. Use as few nails as possible and only to tack up the sheets until you can get the screws in.

Use five fasteners per framing member, one in each tapered edge and three more spaced evenly every 12 in. (Photo 11). Slightly angle screws on the ends of sheets, where there is only 3/4 in. of wood left to catch screws. If you run them in too close to the end, the drywall core will break and they wont hold well.

Using the framing guidelines youve drawn (Photo 3), prestart a few tack nails in the sheet before raising it into position. In other words, start a few nails into the rock about 1/4 in. deep or so. Theyll stick there, ready to be driven home when the sheets in place. Youll then be able to dedicate one hand to hammering and the other to supporting the sheet.

Any room that is subject to high humidity deserves galvanized fasteners. Conventional drywall screws in these areas may eventually corrode and bleed through the finish.

After installing all the drywall, drag a putty knife over every single fastener. If you hear a click (Photo 12), youve found a rogue fastener that needs to be set. Do NOT use your hammer to set a proud (protruding) screwhead! Blasting it in with a hammer may break the screw, creating a bigger hole to patch, and will cause a nail pop down the road. Just screw it in a tad more with a screwdriver or, better yet, a cordless drill. Also, be sure to remove any fasteners that missed the framing member for this how to install drywall job.

Drive screws correctly! The paper on the outside of the drywall is what holds the sheet tight to the wall. An overset screw has little holding power and may pop in the future. If you do overdrive a screw, first install a properly set screw about an inch away from it and then remove the improperly set screw.

Finish setting underdriven screws with a screwdriver or cordless drill. If setting a fastener results in broken paper, replace the fastener with a properly driven one.

Check screwheads and nails for proper depth by dragging a putty knife over each head and listening for clicks.

Have the necessary tools for this how to install drywall DIY project lined up before you startyoull save time and frustration.

Youll also need a Surform tool, a drywall hammer, a foot lift and a drywall lift.

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Heres a list.

Continue reading here:
How to Hang Drywall Like a Pro The Family Handyman

Walls are an important part of every home. Gypsum board, also known as drywall, is an easy and affordable way to create a clean finish on the walls of your home. Follow the easy steps in this article to properly drywall in your home.

Begin with sketches so that you can adequately visualize the workspace. Wallboards must be added in a perpendicular position to the joists. Work from the top down, beginning in the center of the ceiling and extending outwards until you reach the base of the walls. Use waterproof drywall for bathrooms and other areas prone to moisture. Some codes require fire-resistant drywall.

The easiest way to make accurate drywall cuts is to employ a straight edge and a utility knife. Always measure and mark before making any cuts. Start your cut at the paper and slowly score the board until you have complete the cut. Once you have adequately score the gypsum board, it should break easily and evenly. Account for all fixtures around which you must cut the board.

The easiest and cheapest job is to add a single layer of drywall. Use a second layer when you want to protect against flames or sound.

As you plan the layout for your drywall boards, find a way to create as few joints as possible. Use a horizontal arrangement for lower ceilings and vertical arrangement for high ceilings.

It's best to have help when installing the drywall so that you can make the attachments while your friend holds the boards in place. If your on your own, use a T-brace.

Add the top boards first for horizontal arrangements. Put it into place and attach it firmly with screws. If the workspace includes a spot where your find ceiling boards secured directly to the joists, the you should begin the first run 7-inches lower than the ceiling height. When using nails, plan to space them by 7-inches.

Some homeowners prefer adhesive/nail-on style. If that's the kind of board you have selected, then you should stick the boards to the studs before nailing. Sometimes, you'll have a board which bows in the center. To fix it, add a nail until the adhesive has totally settles. For vertical arrangements, align the long edges so that they run in the same direction as the framing members.

Ask a sales associate at your local home improvement store for help finding specially designed metal corner strips and install them according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Apply joint compound over drywall tape to all areas where boards butt against one another. You may occasionally need more than one layer of compound.

When using adhesive tape the best option is to apply the tape first, then add several coats of compound. For non-adhesive tape, you must also apply embedding coal. Once the embedding coat has settled, you can continue to apply several more coats of compound

When applying the adhesive tape, pay special attention to centering it. Apply non-adhesive tape by applying gentle pressure with the knife over the tape into a layer of compound at a 45-degree angle.

Adhesive tape can be coated immediately. Non-adhesive tape must rest for 24 hours and totally dry before you can proceed. Spread the compound wide so that it spreads to a feathered finish.

Once the compound has dried, sand it until it is smooth. Wipe away the dust with a dry towel.

The nails/screws should be slightly recessed into the gypsum board. Spread compound over the dimples and allow it to dry before sanding to a smooth finish.

Continue on to the drywall joints where the boards butt against each other. Spread the compound over these areas in a feathered fashion. Allow it to dry and sand.

Make sure that the metal corners are securely positioned and spread compound over them. Allow the layer to dry, sand it and apply a second coat. Sand the top coat.

When completing the interior corners, spread the compound 1.5-inches in each direction from the angle. Make sure the joint tape matches the area it will cover, and press it into place. Allow it to dry, apply more compound and sand the final layer one it has dried.

Information in this article has been furnished by the National Retail Hardware Association (NRHA) and associated contributors.

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How to Do a Drywall Job | DoItYourself.com