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Installing ceiling drywall is a very simple process, but can be slightly challenging when working alone. By making a few minor adjustments, almost anyone can accomplish this task on their own. Here are a few steps to help you along as you learn how to install ceiling drywall.

1

Inspect the area for any obstructions, such as electrical wires, ductwork, or protruding pipes. Install furring strips to the framing in order to create a flat, even surface for drywall installation around these obstacles.

2

Mark the wall studs to indicate the locations of the ceiling joists for reference during the installation process. You'll also want to mark the placement of light fixtures and electrical boxes.

3

Build a T-Brace, if necessary. This will provide the leverage and support needed to raise the drywall panels to the ceiling when you're working alone. Use a 2 foot (60.96 cm) piece of 1 by 4 (2.54 by 10.16 cm) and nail it to a 2 by 4 (5.08 by 10.16 cm) that is long enough to be 1 foot (30.48 cm) higher than the length from the floor to the ceiling.

4

Hang the drywall, starting in the corner, where you can use a full sheet. Raise the first sheet to the ceiling so you can get an idea of the placement across the joists.

5

Wait until you know where you're placing each sheet before you apply any adhesive to the joists. Drywall adhesive dries within 15 minutes, so you'll want to be ready.

6

Using your T-brace, or a friend to assist you, raise the first sheet of drywall to the ceiling and slide it snugly into the corner. Make sure that the tapered edges of the sheet are facing the floor.

7

Continue along the first wall, always ensuring that the tapered edges abut one another and are facing down. The tapered edges are designed to make the process of taping and mudding easier.

8

Affix the drywall sheets permanently to the ceiling joists using either nails or screws. The heads of the fasteners you choose should come in contact with the paper facing, sinking in slightly without breaking through the paper.

9

Drive the fasteners in 3/8 inches (0.95 cm) away from the edges of each sheet, and space them 7 inches (17.78 cm) apart along the perimeter. Along the interior joist, install the fasteners at about 12 inch (30.48 cm) increments.

10

Start the second row with a half sheet of drywall in order to stagger the seams. This will enforce the stability.

11

Measure and mark the cut line at the vertical midpoint of the drywall sheet. Use a straightedge to help guide your utility knife as you cut. Tip the panel off of the floor or table at a slight angle, then push it down to break it in half. Use the utility knife to cut through the paper backing.

12

Trim the dry wall's length by first marking the line with chalk. Score the line with the knife first, then cut deeper with the second pass.

13

Install panels over vents or light fixtures loosely at first. Use a rotary drill to cut out a border for the fixture or vent, and then fully attach the board.

14

Complete the entire ceiling installation before moving on to the walls.

How do I board out a ceiling that is ready for plaster board on a non-standard construction house?

wikiHow Contributor

You can rent or buy a support tool specifically designed for this purpose. Measure, cut, and then lay it on the support tool. It is adjustable and can hold the drywall at the proper height. Screw the drywall to the ceiling joists.

I'm trying to finish the basement ceiling because our contractor backed out after doing the walls first, so how do I make sure everything looks okay when walls are done but the ceiling isn't?

Most people believe that ceilings must be done first, but this isn't true. Doing a ceiling first only helps to hide edges and off cuts. Make sure that the wall board is completely screwed at the top . This will help to keep things straight. You have two option then. You can measure a center point to the middle of the ceiling, placing your sheet dead center of the line, though this isn't recommended if you're not a professional. It's easier to start from a straight corner placing a full sheet in opposite direction of the studs. Your second sheet should be at least 2 - 4 feet shorter than the first one. Place it on the second row. Complete your first row, then continue on until you're finished.

How do I drywall a ceiling that needs insulation?

wikiHow Contributor

Install friction fit batts, sized to meet the code requirements in your area; cover the area completely with 6 mil poly, taping all joints; then fasten up the drywall.

How do I attach drywall to a metal air vent?

wikiHow Contributor

You don't. Drywall should not be in direct contact with the heating duct. As the duct warms when hot air goes through it, the expansion of the duct will create an annoying noise, break loose the screws, or both. You need to frame below the duct to fasten the drywall to either wood or metal framing that is not attached to the duct.

What should the thickness of the drywall on the ceilings be?

wikiHow Contributor

1/2 in is standard, but the code in your area may require a different size, so check your area's building code to be sure.

How far should the screws go into the ceiling joists when installing a drywall ceiling over an existing one?

wikiHow Contributor

To the point where the head contacts the drywall, too far and you could damage the drywall.

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How to Install Ceiling Drywall: 14 Steps (with Pictures ...

Inspect the existing junction box to make sure its rated for ceiling fans. There should be an inscription on the box to indicate this. The box is usually metal. If not, replace it with a fan-rated junction box and a fan brace between the ceiling joists to help support the fans weight. This process will be shown in Step 2.

Insert the fan brace through the hole in the sheetrock and onto the ceiling. The square tube of the brace should be centered with the hole. Rotate the square tube with your hand until the teeth are firmly locked into the joist. Feel around to gauge your results. Attach the U-bolt bracket to the fan brace. It should be centered in the hole with the bolts facing downward. Thread the cable wire into the junction box. Slip the box up so that the bolts slide through it and tighten the nuts to secure the box into place.

Thread the main wires through the center of the mounting bracket.If the fan has a slide-on bracket, you can leave the mounting bolts on the junction box and simply slide the fan bracket over the mounting screws. Tighten them securely.If your fan doesn't have the slide-on fan bracket, place the fan bracket over the mounting bolts that poke through the bracket and fasten it with the nuts provided.

Using a flat surface, slip the canopy onto the downrod and run the main wires through. Insert the clevis and cotter pins to the downrod, so that it connects to the fan's base.Attach the bulb-shape fitting at the top of the downrod to the mounting bracket on the ceiling.

Connect the fan wires to your household wiring. Some fans come with additional wires, so be sure to follow your owner's manual for specific instructions. Use the wire nuts supplied with your fan kit to secure the wires.Match up the wires: In many cases, the fan's copper or green insulated wire connects with the ground wire. The fan's motor black wire connects with the supply black wire. The fan's light kit wires, blue or striped, also connect with the supply black wires. The fan's motor white wire connects with the supply white, or neutral, wire.Once these wires are securely connected, push them into the junction box. Use wire cutters to cut the wires if they can't fit into the box. This will keep them from vibrating against the canopy when the fan is running. Clip the canopy onto the mounting bracket and tighten the screws.

Some fans have quick-install blades that can make the installation faster. Simply align the blade arm posts through the blade keyhole slots and slide them outward until they click and lock into place.For fans without quick-install blades, screw the fan blades onto the blade arms. The side of the blade that you want shown should face downward.Ceiling fans with accu-arm blade brackets can also speed up installation. These brackets come with the blade screws attached. Also, there's an alignment post on the bracket that will help in mounting the blade arm without stripping the mounting hole.For fans without the accu-arm feature, fasten the blade assembly to the motor with two screws. Drive the screws in slowly to avoid stripping and bending the blades, and tighten securely. Install the globe and light bulbs that may be included in your kit. Restore power, turn on the fan and enjoy the breeze!

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Installing Ceiling Fans at The Home Depot

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CEDIA is quickly approaching. Before the show, CE Pro caught up withMichael Benedetto, VP of sales, Kevro International and Monitor Audio, about what the company has in store for CEDIA attendees in San Diego next week, in booth #1120.

Monitor Audio has been building award winning loudspeakers for over 40 years. Our vast experience, research and development that go into our entire loudspeaker line trickles down to our vast array of architectural and custom products. We deliver outstanding performance at multiple price points, while delivering attractive programs and profit to our dealers.

Lets rediscover Monitor Audio. In the past year, we have made significant changes to our organization, marketing message and channel strategy. With these changes, along with our exciting new products, Monitor Audio is poised to be a brand to watch over the next several years.

I would say to them, stop by and say hello. Take a few minutes to explore our wide range of innovative products and solutions. You will see right away the detail in the fit and finish of our products; from our entry level in ceiling speakers all the way to our flagship in-walls.

The one thing that sets Monitor Audio apart from our closest competitors besides our signature sound, is the fact that we are not financed or owned by any venture capital firms or banks. The principals of Monitor Audio are very active in the day-to-day operations and product development. Our passion is in building award winning speakers and long-term partnerships rather than focusing on spreadsheets and share prices.

At Monitor Audio, we are all about change and trying new things. I think changing a venue is a good thing and hopefully it will bring new people from the industry to discover CEDIA for the first time.

Besides, how do you beat San Diego in September?

#cedia2017 #monitoraudio #monitoraudiousa #rediscoversound #rediscovermonitoraudio

We are in the process of developing in-depth training for our valued partners, not only to educate our dealers and channel about Monitor Audio, but to illustrate the wide-range of products and solutions for all types of applications.

Another important aspect of our training is to assist them in streamlining their product offerings to improve efficiency, increase market share, and most importantly improve their bottom line.

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CEDIA Q&A: Kevro, Monitor Audio Highlight Platinum In-Ceiling II ... - CEPro

The What: Vaddio has launched the new QuickCAT Universal Suspended Ceiling Camera Mount designed to install into a suspended ceiling and provide quick height adjustment.

The What Else: The QuickCAT mount incorporates a suspended ceiling plate, column system, mount, and universal interface for PTZ or fixed cameras, and leverages the mount design expertise of Chief, a fellow brand of Milestone AV Technologies. Packages are available with a customized OneLINK extension system to extend power, video, and control over a single Cat-5e/6 cable for up to 100 meters.

This aesthetically pleasing solution extends the cameras reach and hides the OneLINK EZIM module above the ceiling tiles, said Dan Hoffman, product manager, Vaddio. With the adjustable column, theres no need to specify several column sizes, so you save time on planning and installation.

The Bottom Line: The QucikCAT Universal Suspended Ceiling Camera Mount is designed to solve problems like inconsistent ceiling grid systems, adjustment, and cumbersome installation processes with a host of innovative features.

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Vaddio Introduces QuickCAT Universal Suspended Ceiling Camera Mount - Audio Visual News Network

FRESHLOOK Edison High School has a fresher look these days after undergoing an estimated $2.8 million renovation project this summer. The original structure dating back to 1939 received new drywall, LED lighting, ceilings and paint, and the plan was funded by an emergency renewal levy approved by voters in 2014. Crews still are installing an HVAC unit to heat and cool most of the building and a completion date is eyed for late October. Teacher David Schultzs American government class is shown in one of the newly renovated classrooms.-- Contributed

RICHMOND There was a new look at Edison High School when students and staff returned to class on Aug. 24, but work is continuing through October.

The original structure, which dates back to 1939, underwent a makeover during the summer as part of an estimated $2.8 million renovation project. Rooms throughout the building received new lighting, drywall, drop ceilings and a coat of paint, but the planned HVAC installation is expected to wind down next month.

School started one day later due to cleanup and classroom preparations, but some crews still were onsite adding ceiling tiles.

Principal Matt Morrison said the majority of improvements have been completed and workers have been accommodating to the school schedule.

The renovation projects nearly complete. The rooms are wonderful, Morrison said. Its basically like being in a brand new school.

He said the students and staff looked forward to the projects completion, and crews from Limbach Co. LLC worked during after-school hours to finalize the HVAC installation.

The district contracted with Brewer-Garrett Co. of Cleveland as the design-and-build firm, and financing for the upgrades comes from a 2-mill, five-year emergency renewal levy voters passed in 2014. Since then, Edison has contracted with such companies as Limbach, which was overseeing the project and performs mechanical work; LM Construction of St. Clairsville, construction; and Dickey Electric of Lisbon, electrical improvements.

Officials said work is being performed by contractors outside the area but they are utilizing a work force from local unions to complete the project.

The HVAC unit will heat and cool much of the building, with the exception of the kitchen and gym, while the band room and VoAg classroom have self-contained air conditioning units. Additional improvements were made throughout the last school term, including new lockers and restrooms on the second and third floors and new windows installed.

The gym received a fresh coat of paint from contractors, while the district hired a summer paint crew and college students as part of the summer work program through the Jefferson County Community Action Council.

The original building looks almost as if its a new school, said Superintendent Bill Beattie. We painted most of that building to spruce things up, Beattie added. Were continuing to work on the HVAC portion of the project.

Further improvements across the campus included a $41,000 makeover of the press box, including paint work, an electrical upgrade and new windows on the interior and a new roof outside; a new barn/storage building for the agricultural program behind the FFA greenhouse; and repairs to the FFA greenhouse that was damaged by high winds this past spring.

Youth Rally in the Valley set FOLLANSBEE The 2017 Youth Rally in the Valley is planned Sept. 9 from 11 a.m. ...

Youth Rally in the Valley set FOLLANSBEE The 2017 Youth Rally in the Valley is planned Sept. 9 from 11 a.m. ...

K of C meeting changedWEIRTON Due to the Labor Day holiday, the Weirton Knights of Columbus will meet at 7:30 ...

WEIRTON The August meeting of Three Score senior group featured the southern gospel barbershop group Splendid ...

WINTERSVILLE The Italian American Cultural Club is planning its fall Festa Del Vino on Nov. 3. Chairman ...

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EHS renovations nearly complete - The Daily Times

We have been told that we need a new roof and I agree with those who have told us. Not all were in the business of selling us a new roof but friends and neighbors who have gone through similar experiences as us. Most of the estimators mention the option of a ridge vent installed at the top of the roof, some mention it in passing and don't really push it too hard one way or the other, and others, while not exactly insisting it be installed, say that without the installation of a ridge vent, the attic would receive inadequate ventilation, which, in the event of shingle failure, would invalidate the warranty on the shingles.

Some companies also offered to install another vent type about a foot from the edge of the roof for houses which don't have vents or proper ventilation under the eaves. My concern is that our house is old, built in 1967. From what the home inspector told us when we bought it and what the roofing companies have told us when they've done their estimates - some inspected the attic area as part of their estimate - say it is a solid, well-built house and there appears to be no indications of leaking, water damage etc.

This will be the third roof to be put on this house and the attic has gable vents at each end of the house up near the roof peak. Do we need and/or how necessary is it to have these ridge vents installed? I know almost all new houses have ridge vents but my thought is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Something goes against my thinking to intentionally cut holes in any roof when there doesn't appear to have been any problems regarding leakage in the past - why risk the trouble, right? On the other hand, I want this next roof to last as long as possible and if these vents are better for the roof and the shingles then I would want them installed.

Ill bet you think you asked a simple question but you didnt. You didnt mention anything about stripping off the old roofing material. If this is going to be roof number three you cant put it over two layers of old roofing. Beside being against the building codes its is a very poor practice. Not because of weight as many think but because the length of the fastener. The nails youd need to attach the shingles would be so long as to not be a good attachment and be susceptible to blowoffs in high winds.

Start at the top.

Ridge venting is a continuous vent strip that is installed at the very peak of the roof. It requires an opening to be cut between two to three inches across the very peak of the roof to expose the attic below over which the ridge vent will straddle. The ridge vent is only half of the venting if thats the vent system youre going to use. A ridge vent needs a continuous air supply from the bottom of the roof edge on both sides of the roof to work - called soffit vents.

The way this works is very simple, yet its the state of the art system. Cool air enters the attic at the lower soffit vent and using the heat of the sun as an accelerator, convects air up under the roof deck, washing the underside of the roof with fresh air, somewhat continuously. Its called a cold roof because the intent is for the temperature of the roof to be close or equal to the temperature of the outside air. It works. I first saw them as a manufactured item routinely installed on roofs starting in the mid-1970s. Gable vents need to be blocked off after the installation of ridge and soffit venting as they will work against each other creating dead air zones in the attic that you dont want.

Roofers like them because they dont have to take the time to individually cut cap shingles as they would if the roof were installed traditionally without ridge venting. The roofers who casually mentioned them were planning to install them. The roofers who told you not having them was going to void the shingle warranty really wanted to use them and employed some sales hyperbole to boost the argument.

Almost any ventilation would suffice for the shingle warranty and shingle warranty is a whole other subject and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. There are roofs out there whose designs include no venting yet shingle warranty holds. Remember a warranty is a wager between you and the manufacturer that the manufacturers product will last at least as long as the warranty. They usually last longer as the manufacturer is not in the business of handing out new product for free.

Certain ridge vent configurations can leak under extreme conditions. I have seen little snow drifts up in attics under ridge vents after a period of high winds coupled with fine, blowing snow but that was rare. A melting tiny snow pile on top of attic insulation is unlikely to be detected as wet ceiling drywall.

You need to be sure you have adequate soffit venting to supply the air for ridge vents before you rely on them. Thats what the roofers who offered the lower roof vents were trying to do by suggesting them. There is a continuous roof edge venting now marketed to use in conjunction with ridge vents on roofs with insufficient eaves or overhangs but I worry about leakage during ice damming. Luckily we havent had any protracted periods of icing since the winter of 87/88 when the bay froze over at the bridge and they drove cars on the ice at City Dock.

Your house was built with gable vents - those square or triangular openings at each end of the attic. They work fine by themselves but what we have learned through research is that if you have a proper ridge venting system then you should block off the old gable vents. It turns out they work against one another and pockets of dead air begin to form in areas in the attic and thats not what you want.

Keep in mind the function of ventilation over the course of the entire year is more to exhaust moisture that migrates up from the house than to just dissipate summer heat. Make sure your attic insulation is up to snuff. It should be rated at R-38 of fiberglass or its equivalent. When your house was built you were lucky to have had R-19 and even if you did the R-value has drifted lower over the years due to gravitational compaction of the material.

Ensuring a long shingle life has more to do with selecting the best shingle for the job and having it applied by a crew who is careful and does it to manufacturers specifications and local code requirements. Speak to the roofers about drip edge, ice-damming protection and the type of felt underlayment paper theyll use.

If they want to install ridge vent be sure you like the way it looks and preview a sample before it goes up - they are not all created equal. And make sure your prospective roofer is licensed and insured. A quick trip to the Maryland Department of Labor Licensing and Regulation (DLLR) can verify that. About a third of the folks they say have this or that official qualification dont. To quote a past president: Trust but verify.

Keep the mail coming. If you've got a question, tip or comment, let me know. Write "On The Level," c/o The Capital, P.O. Box 3407, Annapolis, MD 21403 or email me at inspektor@aol.com.

The rest is here:
Do we need to have these ridge vents installed? - CapitalGazette.com

Popular loudspeaker manufacturer Klipsch has a rich history and loyal fan base, but has reached its customers mostly through mainstream consumer channels since its beginnings way back in 1946.The Indianapolis-based company is certainly no stranger to CEDIA, but perhaps has never entered the annual custom integrator tradeshow with as much enthusiasm and dedication to the channel as it is for CEDIA 2017 in San Diego.

Were really trying to change that message to the dealers about our commitment to the channel, says Tyler Nelson, who recently came onboard as Klipschs channel marketing manager, CI/Cinema/Pro, and brought with him channel experience most recently as training director for RTI.

One of Nelsons tasks heading into CEDIA was working with Klipschs in-house creative team on a Home Cinema Solutions product and design leave-behind collateral for dealers to use as an asset for highlighting how the companys various speaker solutions can be integrated into different rooms. Colorful graphics and product suggestions shown in theaters, family rooms, kids rooms, etc., will allow dealers to demonstrate to customers how a range of Klipsch speakers can be integrated or address specific needs.

Its to give to clients so they can get a visualization of what could be done, what the potential is for any situation from a playroom to a home theater room, and how that dealer can help them, says Nelson.

Rob Standley, Klipsch

Klipsch dealers ought to benefit greatly from such a guide with all of the new offerings that will be available to them the company has in its booth (#4812) at the San Diego Convention Center 50+ new products aimed at the custom market, all price protected. They include residential, commercial, architectural, outdoor, wireless and more.

CE Pro got a preview of some of whats on tap for dealers during a recent visit to Klipsch headquarters. In particular, the company demonstrated two types of tool-free installation methods incorporated into its new Professional Reference Premiere Architectural and Professional Referencespeakers, and Design and Custom Architectural series, respectively.

Michael Buratto, product manager, component audio, walked through the quick installation technique called SecureFit that the company is using for its Pro Reference Premiere or Pro Reference models.

The two-part modular system leaves the dog legs exposed after the installation frame hole is cut, and once the frame is in place the installer flips the dog leg in the direction of the arrow. It snaps, keeping the frame in place and machine screws are ejected from the frame; after you wire the speaker and put it in the installation frame, use your screw gun to secure the machine screws and its all set.

Because of the machine screws you get higher clamping force on that speaker module, and it also decouples it from drywall better or the installation surface better than traditional installation methods, Buratto explains. Because of that higher clamping force and decoupling, you get a lot less baffle vibration or baffle vibration transmission into the drywall, so you get better mid-bass and overall a clearer speaker.

Baffle vibration is reduced as much as 40 percent, according to the company.

While everyones jumping on the bandwagon of a faster installation method we were jumping on an installation method that is not necessarily faster, certainly not any slower, but more reliable, adds Buratto (pictured below), which leads to less issues in the field and most importantly creates a better acoustic experience.

The Pro Reference Premiere and Pro Reference loudspeakers take the place of Klipschs 5000 series for the custom channel and deliver 60- to 90-degree dispersion (they sounded very good even listening way off-axis during the demonstration).

The Reference Premiere models feature a new silicone-coated horn, which Buratto says also reduces resonances to lessen mid-range coloration and produce sound a bit more universally appealing to someone whos used to a direct radiator, but still deliver the dynamics, power and controlled directivity of a tried-and-true Klipsch horn.

Meanwhile, for the builder/contractor communities in particular Klipsch is addressing volume and speed of install with its Custom Series (CS) and Designer Series (DS) models that employ a new Sky Hook by Swarm tool-free technology.

Rob Standley, Klipsch

These models will replace the 1000 and 2000 series products, and while we did not hear a demo of prototypes (they will be shown at CEDIA and launch in October) we did see the install technology in action.

Basically you press the top of the speaker into place, the four dog legs clamp into position and youre done and Sky Hook automatically adjusts to whatever the thickness of the surface material is, with teeth that lock into place.

Its an alternative on traditional in-ceiling installation, which can take up to a minute for a speaker; with this, after its wired up its literally a few seconds and youre onto the next speaker, says Buratto.

The Custom Series will be more of an entry-level, contractor-grade product, while the Designer Series is a step-up featuring Tractrix horns and silk-dome tweeters and some with pivoting tweeters and woofers. New architectural products will also give installers round or square grille options, a paint shield that magnetically attaches, and small aperture models that resemble recessed lighting.

One of the big deals at CEDIA for us is all the new Pro Reference and DS/CS lines are designed for integrators specifically and will not be sold to retail online kind of businesses, theyre really aimed at the CI guys, and thats different than where were at today, says Rob Standley, vice president general manager, professional & component audio solutions.

Weve got some products in the market that are those other channels, and these are for this channel specifically," adds Standley. "The other cool thing is the grilles and look of the products. Wether you go from the CS line at the bottom all way to the top Pro Series line, will have same kind of appearance; so if you have a home where youve got these in the theater room, then something in the bathroom thats a mono speaker thats lower priced, its going to maintain the same clean look throughout the project.

In addition to the architectural speakers, Klipsch previewed its Professional Series Landscape speakers and entry-level RSB-3 soundbar during the headquarters/factory visit.

The all-weather Landscape models, good for residential or commercial use, featured easy installation too by which 10- or 18-inch stakes can be hammered in separately and the satellite speakers attached thereafter, with one quarter turn all it takes to be securely mounted to the stake. The sub-sat system has 5- and 6-5-inch two-way horn-loaded satellites that can accompany a full-burial subwoofer.

At CEDIA the company will also have on hand a sub-sat outdoor system from sister brand Jamo, which can be run in 70-volt as well for resi or commercial use and simple scalability.

As a way to expand its RSB (Reference Soundbar) lineup, the company addressed smaller-room installers with the new $299 RSB-3, which launches in September. Its a two-way design with separate tweeter and mid-range drivers and integrated subwoofer, with analog and optical inputs, Dolby decoding, Bluetooth support and universal remote code support.

The main goal is to attach to smaller television sets without the need to have a separate active subwoofer. Some people just dont have the space for it, says Andre Larouche, director of product development systems. Its not intended for large living rooms, but it does a very nice job of reproducing sound, and has ports on the side for low frequency, to keep turbulence low so its not sending low frequencies though the metal grille.

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Klipsch Debuts 50 New Loudspeaker Solutions for Custom Channel at CEDIA - CEPro

Ceilings have a way of really showing defects when the drywall is not installed properly. While the visibility of ceiling defects can be reduced (e.g., through recessed lighting, flat paint, and other methods), the goal of every ceiling drywall installation should be to reduce or eliminate errors during construction. Everyone likes a clean-look drywall ceiling!

The first step in preparing the ceiling is to ensure there are no major issues with the sub-structure of the joists above, no plumbing or electrical issues to be addressed, and that, in general, you can live with a sealed ceiling. After thats complete, the ceiling should be strapped to ease installation.

Strapping a ceiling is the process of installing wood (or, in advanced installations, another material) perpendicular to the joists. The strapping serves as the nailing surface for the drywall. You should never install ceiling drywall fastened directly to the joists above. Why? There are several good reasons:

Strapping the ceiling also has the added benefit of reducing noise transfer from the floor above if you use an advanced material like resilient channel instead of 13 wood.

Ceilings are most often strapped with 1 x 3 uniform spruce lumber. Most home improvement stores will sell strapping in bundles, with sizes ranging from 8 feet to 16 feet. In general, you want to buy the longest strapping you can transport / install in the space.

Calculating the amount of strapping you need is simple. Measure the ceiling across parallel to the joists. Take the number of inches and divide by 16, then add 1. That gives you the number of straps to be installed. Measure the ceiling perpendicular to the joists. If this number is less than 16 feet, you can buy one strap for each length. If this number is greater, youll need to be additional straps to be installed on each length. Pick the best combination of strap lengths to achieve the ceiling.

Ceiling strapping should be installed every 16 inches on center, perpendicular to the joists above. Remember, a sheet of drywall is 4 feet, or 48 inches wide. 16 inch on-center spacing allows the drywall to be fastened four times across its width (one on each end, and two in the middle). On-center installation is important, because every 48 the strapping will be shared by two pieces of drywall. In other words, the center of thethird piece of strapping from the wall should be 48 away from the edge. This pattern should be followed all the way across the ceiling.

To keep the strappingperpendicularto the wall and in a straight line, you may want to snap a chalk line across the joists after making measurements, and before installing the strapping.

10d nails are appropriate for ceiling strapping. You can use two nails at every intersection between a joist and the strapping.We highly recommend using a framing nailer to speed installation! (Otherwise, youd be swinging a hammer upside down a few hundred times!)

Do not use finishing nails! Finishing nails will not provide sufficient hold in the ceiling above. Eventually, the strapping will pull away from the joists, and youll have a collapsed ceiling.

We recommend against screws only because of the unnecessary added installation time.

Installing ceiling strapping greatly eases drywall installation on the ceiling and ensures a smoother, even drywalling job. Special thanks to Todd over at Home Construction Improvement for helping us out with this article and for providing the two photos above.

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How to Strap a Ceiling Before Installing Drywall - One ...

WASHINGTON, D.C. Ribbons of gray, coral and pink swirl overhead in the second-floor gallery at Washington's Renwick Gallery before forming an intricate vaulted ceiling. Illusions of domes and boxes appear and then fall away as viewers move through the room. Realism turns abstract.

The overhead magic is created by Parallax Gap, a new installation that plays with perspective and illusion as it transforms the museum's stately Grand Salon.

Commissioned by the museum for the large room where Janet Echelman's woven sculpture, 1.8 Renwick, was displayed, the work depicts nine ceilings from 19th- and 20th-century buildings, including designs from Philadelphia City Hall, the Palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco and the Indian Treaty Room in the Eisenhower Executive Office Building across Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington.

Layers of fabric stretched on frames are hung in layers from above. The work spans 67 by 38 feet and takes up 10,000 square feet, but it still allows parts of the gallery's own ornate ceiling and skylights to peek through. The individual ceilings overlap and collide with one another, depending on a visitor's point of view. Its name plays on its jumpy perspective, as a kind of optical interaction.

Brennan Buck and David Freedland, partners at the architecture practice FreelandBuck, created the piece, which was selected by the museum in its ABOVE the Renwick competition in 2015.

It will remain on view through Feb. 11.

Parallax Gap, which is the first architecturally focused work commissioned by the Renwick, pushes the definition of craft in the same way the nine site-specific works in Wonder did, says Abraham Thomas, curator-in-charge of the Smithsonian American Art Museum's satellite space for contemporary craft and decorative arts. Wonder was the blockbuster exhibition that celebrated the Renwick's reopening in 2015 after a two-year, $30 million renovation.

Thomas said he wants to build on the experimental nature of that show, which pushed the boundaries of American craft to include large-scale works of contemporary art. This installation's focus on architectural is the next step in defining craft as a process, he said.

Craft is a verb, not just an object. It is an attitude, he said.

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Grand illusions: Renwick Gallery's ceiling installation celebrates the art in architecture - NewsOK.com

When looking ahead to what the Dennos would be showing in our galleries this summer, I knew there was a likelihood the exhibitions would not open when planned given the gallery renovations taking place.

I had invited three noted artists with connections to the region to show as part of our summer schedule.

Sally Rogers, an Northwestern Michigan College art department alum who had gone on to a very successful international career as an artist. Sally and I had been talking about an exhibition for some time. She was considering moving her studio from North Carolina to Traverse City and I told her that would be a great time to do the exhibition. It turns out she elected to make the move to New Mexico instead, where she is now building that new studio. Sally was one of a number of artists I wanted to be sure to exhibit while I was still at the Dennos, hence I invited her to show this summer. She has a major outdoor sculpture, Nexus, installed on our campus as well.

The Grand Traverse region abounds with many fine artists who focus on the landscape of our region. In my time here I have always been drawn to the work of David Grath. His palette and interpretation of that landscape was one that I found refreshing with images I could return to again and again and enjoy the result. David was another one of the artists whose work I wanted to show in a larger presentation at the Dennos. It turns out my invitation came on his 80th birthday!

The sculpture court walls of the Dennos have always been a place to showcase large scale works and they present an opportunity to look at the court itself as an installation space. It is also the visitors first look when they enter the Dennos, so what is shown there sets the stage for what is to come for that visitor. The court has also become a social space and we often end up hosting events that make it difficult to install from the floor up in the court because of that. Some of our recent exhibitions have been installed from the ceiling down to make the floor area accessible for such events.

Diana Carr creates dimensional work, but does so starting from the wall. We have a wonderful work by her in our collections. After exploring her website and seeing her past wall installations, I invited her to create an installation for the court walls.

The first caution I presented to each artist when inviting them to exhibit was to advise them that the planned opening date, which was for June of this year, could very well be pushed back due to construction issues. So they had to be flexible regarding the actual dates of installation and opening.

Thanks to challenges related to gallery flooring which I have written about in earlier columns, that flexibility was indeed put to the test. In the end we installed the Sally Rogers and David Grath exhibitions before the flooring in the galleries was complete. We finally had a formal reception for these exhibitions on Aug. 2 and the flooring in the galleries was only completed the Monday before.

These exhibitions will have shorter runs than usual. Rogers and Grath close Sept. 9 and Carr on Oct. 1. The remarks from those at the opening reception for each exhibition on its own was very positive. As a whole the three installations play off each other very well. I strongly encourage you to see them before they close. They are a testament to the talented artists Traverse City has produced and that have been attracted to this culturally vibrant region.

Gene Jenneman is the executive director of the Dennos Museum Center. He can be reached at ejenneman@nmc.edu.

Excerpt from:
Museum Matters: Three great Dennos Museum exhibitions not to be missed - Traverse City Record Eagle