Lisa Armstrong meets the fashion designers taking inspiration from Istanbul for the V&A's Jameel Prize

BY Lisa Armstrong | 11 December 2013

Architecture and clothes - one way or another, they're both dressing the human body, the former on a grand scale, the latter far more intimately.

Even so, it's a brave designer who bases a line of clothes around famous national landmarks. But Ece (pronounced Eecchay) and Ayse (Eyesha) Ege (Edgay), the two Turkish sisters behind Dice (Deechay) Kayek, have done just that with their Istanbul Contrast Collection. The results are spectacular, not least because they couldn't be further from those half-hearted attempts to incorporate some decorative drawings of buildings into dress fabrics that some labels pass off as "architectural".

Preview to the V&A's Glamour of Italian Fashion exhibition

On the contrary, this is a full-blown deployment of some of Turkey's most stunning structures. There's the ravishing white organdy cocktail dress composed of diagonal folds that replicates Istanbul's famous Blue Mosque, for instance, and the weighs-a-ton, but exquisite, angel-winged evening coat, hand embroidered with antique blown glass beads and clearly inspired by Istanbul's Hagia Sophia Mosque.

Impressive, they're probably not primarily intended for wearing, since they're part of the sisters' victorious submission for the Jameel Prize, an international award presented bi-annually to an artist or designer inspired by Islamic tradition.

This year's judging panel includes Zaha Hadid, Thomas Heatherwick (designer of the new Routemaster bus and the Olympic cauldron) and Martin Roth, director of the V&A. The Ege sisters, who were named as winners last night, are the first fashion designers ever to be nominated.

In some ways this is a natural evolution for them. When I visited their labyrinthine studio in Paris in October, I saw at first hand how sculptural the clothes for their Dice Kayek label are - full of sumptuous A-line silhouettes in beautiful duchesse satins and silks. Matchka, a less expensive label they design and sell only in Turkey, is more of an everyday collection, with floaty, fluid pieces in lovely fabrics. I wish it were sold here.

White on: the dress inspired by the Dolmabahe Palace PHOTO: DICE KAYEK

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Dice Kayek: Architects of Style

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Architects

Architects performing live in Australia in 2009. Left to right: guitarist Tom Searle, vocalist Sam Carter, bassist Alex Dean and guitarist Tim Hillier-Brook. Drummer Dan Searle is not visible in the image.

Architects are a British metalcore band from Brighton, England, formed in 2004. The band currently consists of lead vocalist Sam Carter, drummer Dan Searle and his twin brother, guitarist and keyboardist Tom Searle and Alex Dean on bass guitar. The band went through several name changes before they decided upon Architects. Their first name was Inharmonic, which was swiftly changed to Counting the Days. After a couple of years this was in turn changed to Architects. They have released five studio albums and one split ep with Dead Swans.

They released their debut album Nightmares in 2006 on In At The Deep End records. After their original vocalist, Matt Johnson, left Carter joined and made his first appearance on Architects second album Ruin released in 2007 through United By Fate records. In 2009 the band released Hollow Crown through their current record label Century Media. They then released their fourth album The Here And Now in 2011, which showed the band step in a more melodic "clean-cut post-hardcore" direction.[1] Upon its release the album received critical acclaim but was panned by their fanbase.[2] The next year Architects returned to their original style with their fifth album Daybreaker, with more politicised lyrics[3] as opposed to the violent and comedic lyrics that can be heard throughout their older work.[4]

The band members are currently all vegan.[5]

Architects was founded in 2004 with lead vocalist Matt Johnson, drummer Dan Searle and his twin brother,[4] guitarist Tom Searle, guitarist Tim Hillier-Brook and Tim Lucas on bass guitar Tim Hillier-Brook. Before Architects, all members of the band had their own musical projects. In 2006 the band's original bassist, Tim Lucas, decided to leave the band to pursue his academic career. He was replaced by Alex Dean. The band had travelled around the UK on many tours supporting a number of different bands in support of their debut album Nightmares. Because of the age of the band members in the early years they had to book weeks of holiday off at college in order to do tours round the country.[6]

In January 2007, after a lengthy tour around the country as an opening act to SikTh and Dead Man In Reno, Architects original vocalist Matt Johnson left the band. Dan Searle said that after Johnson left the band they all saw Sam Carter performing with other local bands and decided it was an "easy choice".[7] When Carter joined as Architects' new lead vocalist he made his on-stage dbut by performing the song "The Darkest Tomb". After this amicable departure, Matt Johnson went on to form the band Whitemare with ex-members of Johnny Truant and Centurion, and also briefly Architects guitarist Tim Hillier-Brook on bass.[citation needed] They released their second album Ruin on 25 June 2007.[8] Despite releasing their dbut album Nightmares the previous year the band felt they have developed as song writers a lot and wished to release something quicker.[8] Carter felt pressure when writing the lyrics for 'Ruin' as he had a six-week period between joining 'Architects' and going into the studio to record.[9] Dan Searle had commented that Carter Drew from a lot more personal experience in his lyrics than their previous singer Johnson.[8]

In early 2008 released a Split EP with UK band Dead Swans. The split EP featured two songs from each artist Architects' contributed: We're All Alone and Broken Clocks. While Dead Swans contributed: In the Half Light and Swallow. The song We're All Alone was later worked into Hollow Crown. The band said that they wanted to do release the album in the effort to show people they are still progressing their style.[7] The split EP was well received by British music press with review scores of 7/10 from Metal Hammer,[10] 8/10 from Rock Sound,[11] A 7.5 was given by Terrorizer for Architects' side of the ep[12] and four "K"s out of 5 from Kerrang!.[13] The release was followed by a double headed tour of the UK.

In May 2008 Architects announced that they had been signed to Century Media Records for a three album deal. Dean stated that the signing was important for the band "to be part of such an established label and its absolutely sweet that our records are gonna [sic] be out worldwide."[14] Dan Searle described Century Media's support matching "our ambition to push this band as far as we can." The announcement of their signing to Century Media was coupled with the re-release of their second album Ruin globally with the added bonus track Broken Clocks.[15] In November 2008 the band embarked on the Never Say Die! Tour, a European tour with Parkway Drive as the headline act and also support from Unearth, Despised Icon, Protest the Hero, Whitechapel and Carnifex.[16]

On 26 January 2009 Architects made their Century Record dbut with their third studio album Hollow Crown. It was released in the United Kingdom and Australia on 26 January 2009, 10 February in the United States and Canada, 20 February in Continental Europe and 21 February in Japan. The band recorded the album in July 2008 after the announcement of joining Century Media's rooster.[15] Dan Searle in interview was asked why the band gave it the title and he stated "depending on who you ask in the band! To me it refers to those people you meet in life that earn nothing, but are given everything."[7] For the initial promotion of the album the band completed a 19 date headline tour of the United Kingdom with support from Misery Signals and A Textbook Tragedy.[17] in early 2009 the band supported Parkway Drive along with August Burns Red on the Parkway Drive: The DVD tour in Australia. In October and November 2009 they headlined the second Never Say Die! Tour United Kingdom dates, whereas Despised Icon headlined the Mainland European dates. The line also included Horse the Band, As Blood Runs Black, Iwrestledabearonce, Oceano and The Ghost Inside.[18] In January 2009 Tom Searle had believed the band had toured across North America and Europe in 17 separate tours.[6]

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Architects (British band) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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