Handyman: All abuzz about bees

Q: While cleaning gutters recently, I saw what appeared to be many bumblebees going in and out of a space on the fascia, possibly into the attic area. They came out like a swarm, landing on my face. I believe these were some type of bumblebee, but I could be wrong. I sprayed insecticide, but what now? How do I make sure they are dead? Should I caulk the hole or fill it with expanding insulating foam?

A: Don't use insecticides. Bees are beneficial, because they are pollinators. Fill the holes with adhesive caulk and/or replace the damaged wood.

Q: We have a forced-air heating and air-conditioning system. I see ads all the time for air-duct cleaning. My heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning company doesn't do it, and they have said that such cleaning can damage the ducts. Do you have an opinion?

A: If your ductwork is more than 25 years old, it's a good idea to have it cleaned. Sure, damage can occur, but it's rare and reputable companies will fix it. My own ducts are 50 years old, and were they ever stuffed with dirt, crud, and you name it. I had them cleaned, and they'll be good for another 25 years or so. Do it!

Q: I just bought an old bureau with four drawers at a house sale. I cleaned the outside with Murphy Oil Soap, and it looks good. However, when you rub the inside of the drawers with a light cloth, an orange stain comes off on it. I'm wondering what is the best and most authentic thing to do with the drawers (short of covering them with contact paper) to protect the clothes that will be put in them.

A: The inside is bare wood, so wash it with paint thinner (using the proper ventilation and protection, of course) to get rid of the staining. Then leave it alone. If the staining continues, try more paint thinner. When the staining stops, do nothing more with the wood. If the staining does not stop, it's time for good ol' contact paper.

Q: We have a house built in 1925 that has a granite-block foundation. Our problem is that we are getting a leak in one corner when it rains, and it appears that the mortar or cement between the stones is the source. There is a gutter above that corner, and I have tried to divert water away from the house. Any suggestions on how to repair this situation without digging a trench and installing a pump?

A: I think water is coming through those degraded joints between the blocks. Keeping water away via gutters is also good. To fill those places that have lost mortar, you can repoint, chipping out old mortar and pressing in new. A mason can do this, but you can, too, but be aware that it is heavy work. If it is successful and stops leaks above the floor, then you can tackle ground water that is coming up between the floor slab and block wall.

Peter Hotton's Handyman column appears in the Boston Globe. Contact him at photton@globe.com.

Read the rest here:
Handyman: All abuzz about bees