How to install a house sewer and drainage info

Since the over-all efficiency of a drainage system depends on the last link, the run of pipe which ends the house system and connects with the main sewer or septic tank, we should understand the principles of its installation. Though the amateur plumber, with care and the proper tools and materials, could make this installation, it is not recommended that he try it. There is also the likelihood that local regulations will not permit the amateur to make actual connections with a municipal sewage system.

The safest and surest course would be to hire a competent like plumber and to watch as the installation is made to see that your planned layout is followed. This section will outline what are considered to be correct procedures and safeguards. It is hardly necessary to stress that judgment in the selection of materials will ensure an efficient lived sewer.

Cast iron pipe is usually suggested for house sewers, though vitrified clay piping has proved more than adequate in many cases. Platic could also be an option. Clay is less expensive initially, but it lacks the strength and wearing quality of iron. Clay pipe is also subject to weakening from tree-root pressure. However, in soil containing cinders or ashes, clay will not deteriorate as will iron.

Entry into the public sewer generally must be made under supervision of an inspector from the local health authority. Main sewers are usually about 10 feet under the street grade. The hole through which you intend to connect your house sewer is made well above the flow line of the main sewer so that your house sewer will connect at an angle of 45. The main sewer wall is pierced carefully with a small hole at the desired point so that the wall of the main sewer will not crack or fall away. The small hole is then enlarged until it can admit your terminal pipe link.

Once this hole is the proper size, measure the main sewer's wall thickness and cut a sleeve of the pipe used to that size so that it can be cemented in place.

Place it so that its inner rim is flush with the interior sewer wall and so some of the sleeve extends up from the main sewer. This will prevent the sleeve and the first section of your house sewer from separating if there should be an underground shift of either, and it also avoids impeding the flow within the main sewer itself.

In most cases the entry of the house sewer into the main sewer is made in a long sweeping curve rather than at a sharp angle. The over-all angle should be the already suggested 45

The pipe section is inserted into the sleeve, which has been firmly secured and cemented into place so that it will not shift.

This type of connection is made in the main sewers of either the concrete or brick type. If the main sewer is of vitrified clay, an entire section of it may be removed and replaced with a Y-fitted section, unless the main sewer is already supplied with Y fittings at regular intervals along the line.

Having determined the material from which the sewer will be made, and having made the proper main sewer connection, it is now time to lay the pipe to the house at a pitch which will permit proper discharge. The diameter of your house sewer pipe should be checked with local authorities. Generally it should be 4" diameter if iron or copper is used and 6" if clay pipe is selected.

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How to install a house sewer and drainage info