Note: this page describes the phone wiring conventions in the United States. I'm not familiar with the phone wiring conventions outside the U.S., so the information here may not apply in your country.

In years gone past, it was the responsibility of the phone company not only to bring phone service to your house but to do the phone wiring within your house as well. This is no longer the case. When you order phone service to your house, the local phone company installs a network interface device, a sturdy grey plastic box usually mounted either in your basement or on an outside wall.

You can do your inside wiring yourself, or you can pay the local phone company or a third party (such as an electrician) to do it for you. Doing residential phone wiring is easy, however, and the local phone company's charges for this service are steep. Even if you have to buy wire and modular jacks, you're going to come out way ahead if you do your own work.

Installing extra lines can be a problem if you rent an apartment in a multi-unit building. The wiring between the network interface device and the apartment is not the phone company's responsibility, so you'll have to work out with your landlord who's going to do the in-between wiring if you need additional lines. Your landlord may not want you to do the wiring for fear you don't know what you're doing; but the landlord may also object to picking up the tab if the phone company does the work. Whose responsibility it actually is probably depends on your lease.

I once had a deadbeat landlord who I didn't even bother approaching when I needed a second line installed. Instead, I just ran my own wire out thru a hole I drilled in the window frame and down a six-story fire escape in the alley to the basement, where I had the phone company representative install an ordinary residential network interface device for me next to the big panel. When I moved, I just unhooked my piece of wire and rolled it up for my next wiring project, and then I spackled over the hole I had drilled. The landlord was none the wiser.

This page is mainly about installing additional phone lines, which is one of the most common phone wiring tasks in this age of modems and fax machines. What's described here are the color coding conventions for phone wiring, and how to make the connections. It's assumed that you know how to use a screwdriver and a drill.

It's also assumed that you have at least a rudimentary understanding of electrical safety. Phone wires carry low-voltage electricity, but you probably already know better than to do your wiring barefoot on a wet floor, for example. If you're touching the wires when the phone rings, you can get a substantial jolt; enough current goes thru to ring the old-type mechanical ringing devices consisting of a heavy clapper and some rather large bells, even though most modern phones no longer require so much current. Best policy is to disconnect your house at the Network Interface Device (see below) before working on wiring. Even a small shock can interfere with a pacemaker, according to one person who wrote to me. Also, for everybody, it's a bad idea to work on your phone wiring during thunderstorms.

In most residential phone wiring, the cable contains four individual wires. Most phone wire installed in the U.S. during the second half of the 20th century is of the following kind:

The kind of wire shown above has recently become obsolete. For all new telephone wiring projects, you should use Cat 5 cable. All of the Cat 5 wire I've seen uses the following color coding:

In either case, the important point is this: one phone line only requires two of these strands. In the vast majority of cases, the other two wires go unused-- but if you choose, you can certainly use them for a second line (i.e., a totally separate line with its own phone number, which the local phone company will connect to a second terminal in your network interface device). This means that if you are installing a second line for a fax, modem, etc., you usually don't have to actually physically run new wires; you can connect the extra two wires to the second phone line at the network interface device. Assuming that everything is wired properly thruout your house (i.e., nobody has cut corners by not bothering to connect the extra two wires somewhere along the way), this will give you "Line 2" service thruout the house.

If you're going to buy a two-line phone, there's nothing more you need to do, since a two-line phone expects "Line 2" to run on the yellow/black wires. For ordinary phone equipment such a modem, however, you have to convert a "Line 1" jack to a "Line 2" jack. One way you can do this is with a plug-in adapter, but the method described here involves swapping around a few wires in the jack.

Wiring at the network interface device

Don't be squeamish about poking around inside the Network Interface Device. It may look forbidding and official, but you have every right to be there.

The following two diagrams show the color coding scheme for the old kind of wire. This probably applies to your house if you're not running any new cable, and are simply running a second line thru the existing unused yellow/black wires. If you're running Cat 5 cable, you'll need to make the appropriate color conversions.

Converting a "Line 1" jack to a "Line 2" jack

Note that black is swapped for green, and yellow is swapped for red. Of course, it would also work if you consistently swapped the black and yellow wires the other way (black for red, yellow for green) but that is not the standard. Given that you have to be consistent between the two ends of the wire, you might as well follow the standard.

Converting a jack to Line 2 means that you will no longer be able to use it for Line 1. In practice, you'll probably want to install a second wiring block beside the first, and use a short piece of four-strand wire to extend the system from the existing block to the new one. This way, you can have a Line 1 jack right beside the Line 2 jack.

Caveat: It occasionally happens that the red and/or green wires become damaged and unusable, but that the black and yellow wires are intact. Repairpersons have sometimes remedied this by running the one phone line across the black and yellow wires rather than replacing the cabling. If this has happened, you won't be able to run a second line thru the four-strand wire. (This is uncommon, but it is a gotcha to be aware of).

Four-strand wire supports up to two phone lines. If you are installing three or four lines, you might also consider buying eight-strand wire. The color coding conventions for this kind of wire are as follows:

(There's also six-strand wire, which is the same as eight-strand wire with the brown pair left out. This color system actually extends up thru other colors to distinguish 25 different pairs, but even the most techno-geeky of us will probably never have that many phone lines in our homes. If you're interested, you can get the details to this system at Phone-Man's Home Page)

The conventions for eight-strand wire are as follows:

If you have very old existing wiring in your house, it may not follow the conventions described above, but new wiring should follow them.

If you think you've got everything hooked up correctly, but one or more of your lines is "dead" (no dial tone), the problem might be the local phone company's problem, or it might be in your own wiring. Be sure that the problem isn't in your own wiring or in one of your own phones before you call the phone company to check on the problem. If they determine that the problem is on their side of the network interface device, they have to fix the problem at no charge to you; but if they determine that the problem is on your side of the network interface device, they'll charge you just for having determined this, and they'll charge you a second time if you have them make the fix in your wiring for you.

So how can you tell whose problem it is? This is easy: when you open your network interface box, notice that there is a modular jack for each phone line. You can unplug the jack for the line in question (note that doing this unplugs your whole house from the phone company's network) and plug a working phone into the jack instead. This phone is now hooked directly into the phone company's network. If the phone works properly when connected in this manner, then the problem is in your own wiring. If the phone doesn't work, either your phone is broken or there's a problem in the phone company's network. Try a second phone which you know to work, and if there still seems to be no service on the line, the problem is probably on the phone company's side of the network interface device.

If the problem is in your own wiring, the following things might be wrong:

If you're getting static on the line, it's possible that there's a hole somewhere in the wire insulation which is letting in moisture and causing a short. Follow the wire from the network interface device to the jack and look for holes. For example, if you've used staples to fasten the wire to the wall, check for a staple puncturing the insulation.

There isn't any one right way to plan your house wiring. Some people prefer to run a separate wire all the way from the Network Interface Device to each jack (star topology); others prefer a system with branching at points other than the NID, and/or with one jack daisy-chained to the next:

Star topology potentially uses a good bit more wire, but it is easier to troubleshoot because each jack is independent of the others.

I use the branching/daisy chaining approach myself. Fishing the wire is probably the most time-consuming part of the whole job, so if I'm just putting in one new jack, I'd usually rather just jump off of an existing jack than take the time to run a whole new wire all the way from the basement to the second floor. However, if the house has old, premodern wiring, the advantage to running a whole new wire is that I know exactly what I'm dealing with.

This section doesn't attempt to cover all the gadgets and parts related to phone wiring. For the wiring jobs described above, you usually only need to buy wire and modular jacks.

Two gotchas when buying modular jacks. First, for ordinary residential wiring, you should buy the kind of modular jack with four contacts inside the jack; don't make the mistake of buying the wider modular jack with six contacts unless you're sure it's what you need (you've got to look closely to see the difference).

Second, you can buy modular jacks either with or without the wiring block (this is the heavy plastic piece which you mount to the wall, with screws to attach the wires to; see the picture higher up on the page). If you're installing a totally new jack, then you need the wiring block. If you're upgrading an existing, old-fashioned (pre-modular) connection to a modular jack, you might be able to use the existing wiring block, in which case you don't need to buy the kind of jack with the wiring block included; sometimes you can take the old cover off and just put a new modular cover over the old wiring block. In the store, it's hard to tell from outside the sealed package whether the block is included. Read the label carefully! More than once I've gotten home and realized I bought the wrong kind; it's an easy mistake to make.

As mentioned above, you should buy Cat 5 wire for all new phone wiring projects. The older four-color type allows more crosstalk between wires; this might be only a minor annoyance for voice lines, but it's a bigger problem for modems or DSL lines. Even if you don't have immediate plans to transmit this kind of data across your line, it's better to plan for flexibility in the future. Cat 5 is now the national standard.

A reader tells me that Radio Shack sells a handy two-line tester for $5 which allows you to make sure the polarity (red/green, yellow/black) isn't reversed anywhere (I generally don't recommend Radio Shack since their products tend to be of shoddy quality, but for $5 it's hard to go wrong). You can also check at the Network Interface Device to make sure the phone company doesn't have the polarity reversed; if they do, you should call them to have it fixed at no charge, since reversed polarity can reportedly damage some kinds of phone equipment.

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Obnoxious Legal Stuff: To the best of my knowledge, all of the information on this page is correct, and it is provided in hope that it will be useful. However, I assume no liability for any damages, direct or otherwise, resulting from the use of this information, and no warranty is made regarding its accuracy or completeness. Use this information at your own risk.

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Doing Your Own Telephone Wiring

Vitt Heating and Cooling Our company is a second and third-generation, family-run heating and cooling business specializing in furnace and AC repair. We are all working together with a common goal of happiness and success for ourselves and our family and friends. With this goal in mind, we offer honest opinions regarding service and, if necessary, installation of new heating and cooling equipment.

We are a member of the BBB and Angie's List with an A+ rating for both and have been doing this day in and day out since 1954. We dont believe that a system installed in your home that will last for years to come should be installed in a rushed manner - "haste makes for waste." We custom make all duct work fittings for each unique heating and cooling system to ensure your furnace or AC repair or installation is done right the first time.

With these outstanding statistics, you can't go wrong with Vitt Heating and Cooling!

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St. Louis AC And Furnace Repair | Vitt Heating And Cooling

Some assembly required almost never just means some. Save yourself the headache of trying to decipher furniture instructions and let our professional handymen do it for you.

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Handyman Services | Major Home Repairs to Minor Odd Jobs

Gutter cleaning in Northern Virginia is a daunting task, but Gutterman Services is up for the challenge! The natural beauty of this area is breathtaking, but so is the mess of leaves and debris it leaves behind in your gutters. Maintaining gutters which are clean and free of obstruction is an important part of keeping a clean house or office.

Chris Pauly began cleaning gutters while in high school in the 80s. Many years later Gutterman Services is the premier gutter cleaning company in Northern Virginia. Armed with experience and knowledge, we have provided the best gutter services in the area for over twenty-six years!

Most companies use a leaf blower to clean out your gutters. We take a more focused approach.

Our Gutter Cleaning service includes:

Gutterman Services also helps keep our clients on a schedule and provides a maintenance contract for our gutter cleaning services so you never have to worry about the state of your gutters. This allows you to rest assured that your regular maintenance is on Gutterman Services calendar and that we are staying on top of regular gutter cleaning and upkeep.

Fill out our online estimate form today and we will call you to provide a discuss your gutter cleaning cost. Always feel free to call us at 571-297-1445. Dont wait for your gutters to back up, perform regular gutter maintenance with Gutterman Services!

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Gutter Cleaning | Gutter Cleaning Servce | Gutterman Services

A Better Gutter Cleaning is Charlotte's gutter cleaning leader. Over the last 16 years we have perfected our gutter cleaning service. When thinking about having your gutters cleaned you want a gutter cleaning service that specializes in gutter cleaning only. Most of the houses in the Charlotte Metro Area have steep rooflines and gutters that are 20-40 feet off the ground, so you want to make sure that the gutter cleaning company you choose has the right equipment and know-how to get on your roof safely and get the gutters cleaned out completely and thoroughly. All our gutter cleaning techs are thoroughly screened, hired and trained to use the latest and most appropriate methods to make sure your gutters are clean and working correctly after each service. In fact, most of our competitors regularly look to us for new gutter cleaning techniques and standard practices within the industry. We are Charlottes gutter cleaning experts!

All our focus goes into making gutter cleaning the easiest service that you will schedule all year long. Of course, you can call our office and we can give you a price for gutter cleaning over the phone, but with our very modern and easy to use online system, you can get a gutter cleaning quote emailed to you within just a few minutes. Someone from our office will take a look at your house with our proprietary software program, email you a gutter cleaning quote, and give you a call to go over the details. With just one click in that email, you can schedule your gutter cleaning service and have your gutters working again in just a couple of days! You will find that we are not your typical small service company. Yes, we are a small company so you get the personal service that you would expect, but with a big company feel. Our office is open Monday Friday from 8-5 all year long and our management staff is always available to you at any time. That means no voicemail or answering service when you call us, so you can always get in touch with a gutter cleaning expert in our office with just one quick phone call. Our Proprietary Cleaning Methods and maintenance programs have consistently protected our clients from water intrusion, wood-rot, flooded basements, and landscape erosion. With over 90,000 gutter cleaning services under our belt we are, far and away, the best choice for gutter cleaning in Charlotte, NC.

After that first gutter cleaning service, you can come back to our website and create an online account where you can schedule a future gutter cleaning service, pay your current gutter cleaning invoice, see your entire gutter cleaning service history, and sign up for a regular gutter cleaning service contract at your home. Our owners and management team are all educated career professionals dedicated to running the best gutter cleaning company in the entire country. Give us a try and you will quickly see why we are the fastest growing gutter cleaning company in Charlotte, NC. Also note that we are a very highly rated gutter cleaning company on the Internet and are consistently listed as a top tier service company by independent consumer groups. Maybe thats why 95% of our first time customers use our service time and time again.

If your mailing address is in one of the following cities your house is in our gutter cleaning service area: Charlotte, Gastonia, Matthews, Bessemer City, Mooresville, Corelius, China Grove, Salisbury, Dallas, Catawba, Lancaster, Pageland, Wadesboro, Stanley, Mt. Holly, Lincolnton, Iron Station, Lowesville, Denver, Clover, York, Newport, Rock Hill, Fort Mill, Lake Wylie, Pineville, Ballantyne, Marvin, Weddington, Waxhaw, Stallings, Indian Trail, Lake Park, Monroe, Wingate, Marshville, Unionville, Fairview, Mint Hill, Midland, Albermarle, Concord, Harrisburg, Enochville, Landis, Davidson, Norwood, Wadesboro, Polkton, and everything in between!! Just call and well quickly let you know!

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EASYSEED: The 1-2-3 Steps For Planting A Fescue Lawn

First: Decide if you will till the soil (So as to kill all the existing plants by plowing up your site!) or just plant within the existing grass. Also decide on the variety of Fescue grass to plant.

I will NOT TILL my site - I want to overseed my existing lawn.

You are not tilling the soil - and are planting seeds within the existing grass & weeds. This is called overseeding.

OVERSEEDING - Note: Fescue does thin out over time, so overseeding helps to thicken the turf to achieve higher plant density.

(1) Mow your lawn as close as possible and remove the excess clippings with an iron-rake that will also scratch your site soil, preparing a home for the seed.

(2) Next if at all possible AERATE your lawn with a spike aerator. Planting without aerating does not allow good soil contact of your fescue seed. Aerate by traveling first North to South and then East to West (two trips across lawn). Then sow (broadcast) your Fescue seeds on the area to be planted generally in the early fall (Aug - Sept) for your best results. Fescue may also be seeded in the Spring (before May). Some people say they find overseeding both spring and fall works best for them.

However you may also seed in late fall at the same time you use a cover crop such as ryegrass. The fescue seed will start germinating the following spring provided that snow and/or low temperature conditions have protected the seeds until spring germination. Timing is important depending of if you are in a more Northern cool-season area or in the transition zone.

(3) After you have broadcast your seed, you should aerate a third time. This last time helps to provide soil coverage of your seeds.

You may also Roll the area sowed with a hand roller so that the seed that you sowed, which fell into the soil scratches made with the rake, will become firmly packed with the soil. Fescue seed require firm soil contact for best germination. They also need a thin soil covering to germinate (1/4 inch ideal) - They are not likely to germinate when thrown out on top of the ground, unless a mulch covering or top soil is applied. Use the correct rate of seed for Fescue lawns.

(4) Follow your normal water, fertilizing and mowing practices for the area you have planted on a regular basis. That's all! Eventually you will have an improved, more lush and thick Fescue grass lawn. Generally you should water daily after planting until germination occurs, then continue on a more normal cycle. - http://www.lawnirrigation.com

Keep in mind that if overseeding a NEW lawn you need to create a good firm seedbed (soil) for your seedlings to grown in. Using a tiller is the best preparatory method. A second method is to use a rake to loosen the soil and make for better germination of your grass seed.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

Planting a new lawn on correctly prepared and tilled soil.

(1) Till the area to be planted so as to provide for a good seed bed (fine, loose soil) with little soil compaction. Early fall is the best time to start this activity for Fescue. The tilling can be done with either a garden roto-tiller or a tractor harrow/tiller (Or even a shovel if you have a good back!). Once the area is properly returned to soil, level the ground by raking or dragging something over the surface until it is smooth and level. Now is the time to remove hills and depressions so that you have a nice smooth lawn.

(2) Plant the seeds. You can use a commercial turf grass planter, slit seeder, or sow the seeds by hand, or just as easy and much preferred, buy a lawn grass seeder. Once your seeds are sowed, rake or drag the seeded area, so that as many of the seeds as possible are lightly covered (1/4 inch is ideal covering). Be sure and use the correct rate for seeding Fescue grass. With new lawns a light covering of straw / hay can be spread over the planted area - This will help germination by reducing water evaporation and provide better conditions for germination.

EROSION CONTROL - Used straw will also help some with erosion issues - Vertical blade aerators can help push some of the straw into the soil to provide better erosion control. OR use a seed mat to cover the planted area and staple the mat in place. Third option in erosion prone areas is to hire a local hydro seeder to spray / plant your erosion areas.

(3) Water the area you have planted daily until germination occurs (unless rainfall occurs). Then water as needed. Apply fertilizer in intervals through the growing season, and practice a regular mowing schedule. Mowing the weeds that will grow in your new lawn area faster than the grass, allows the grass to compete better for scarce nutrients and sunlight. - Mow regular and at the correct height.

Visit our http://www.lawngrasses.com for more about seeding rates and lawn choices for grasses. For pasture seeding the rate is normally lower, around 25 to 30 lbs of tall fescue seed per acre. Please follow the correct planting rates for your particular tall fescue seed and planting situation. Keep in mind that the seeding rate is purposely higher for lawns so that the higher plant density needed for lush turf grass lawns is achieved.

A good final finish to planting a Fescue lawn is to roll your planted lawn area with a hand roller. You can rent these implements from rental stores in your area. This compacts the soil around the seed, creating a more favorable environment for Fescue seed germination. Fescue seed do not germinate well in fluffy soil, so this is an important step. The rolling also smoothes the soil providing for a more level uniform lawn.

Bluegrass seed can be planted using the same basic seeding techniques as for Fescue. Also read about Ryegrass for cool season areas. Both of these grasses are often used in mixtures with Fescue to provide a more quality turf lawn in the Northern lawn areas.

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How to Seed a Fescue Grass Lawn or Pasture|Step-by-Step ...

SCIT's 7 month electrician program teaches students various installation and maintenance techniques for residential, commercial and industrial electrical systems based on the national electrical code (NEC). Faculty members bring many years of real-world experience to the classroom working with and installing numerous electrical devices used in jobsites. The program cements lecture topics through extensive projects by having students work hands-on in SCIT's Residential Wiring Lab, Commercial Wiring Lab, Electric Motors Lab and Programmable Logic Controller Lab.

SCIT is a State of California approved (Approved School #145) provider of the whole general electrician curriculum. The program provides electrical training for those wishing to register with the State of California as an Electrician Trainee. The curriculum involves extensive courses to develop the necessary skills for entry-level employment in the three major electrician sectors: Residential, Commercial and Industrial.

The General Electrician program includes training courses structured around the curriculum standards adopted by the Electrician Certification Curriculum Committee. Core themes include Electric Fundamentals, Electrical training based on National Electrical Code (NEC) standards, Electric Motors, and PLC Programming. The courses teach students the knowledge and skills needed to install, repair, alter and maintain residential, commercial and industrial electrical systems.

Graduates of the general electrician program may be able to pursue a Bachelor of Science Degree in Electrical Engineering (BSEE). Courses completed in the general electrician program are transferable to the Electrical Engineering program in SCIT's School of Engineering. A BSEE degree may reduce the amount of work experience that the State of California requires for those wanting to take the C-10 Electrical Contractor Licensing Test.

If you have a Bachelors Degree in Electrical Engineering, you may receive a maximum of 3 years credit toward the 4 years minimum experience required to become C-10 licensed. Visit the California State Contractors License Board website for complete information regarding C-10 Licensing.

Since Electrical Engineering courses are offered at night, the program allows students to work as an electrician during the day so that they may be earning experience hours while pursuing a degree.

Originally posted here:
General Electrician Program - SCITech

Director: Mark Steinagel Bureau Manager: Steve Duncombe 801-530-6628 Board Secretary: Tracy Taylor 801-530-6454

Members

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View Agenda and Minutes approved after May 14, 2013

Can I take my journeyman/master, etc. exam now and earn my on-the-job work hours later?

No, state law requires on-the-job work hours and school hours/grades be met before one is approved to take the exam.

Continuing Education Revocation of Pellco CEU Courses

An Electrician Licensee is obligated to complete sixteen hours of continuing education each licensing period. Twelve hours must be "core" education and the remaining four can be "core" or "professional" related. See Rule R156-55b-304 for details.

Beginning December 01, 2010, all courses must be approved by DOPL to be acceptable.

Electricians may view a list of courses that have been approved by DOPL at http://www.utah.gov/ce-public

View a HELP TUTORIALon how to use theCE Registry

Continuing Education Providers MUST submit all courses to DOPL for approval. This can be done online at https://secure.utah.gov/ce-provider

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Utah Division of Occupational & Professional Licensing

Looking for a Maryland Drywall Contractor?

Glenn Construction provides a variety of drywall services in Maryland, including:

Drywall and plaster repairs are one of our specialty services. We have the expertise to patch holes, repair nail pops, settlement cracks, seams and tape joints, as well as repairing damage from water, smoke, flood and fire. Our MD drywall company can match stippled and textured finishes as well. Most repairs can be scheduled within 24 hours.

Not every home or room is the same. With our custom drywall services, you can transform current rooms and build new rooms the way you want it. Our specialty drywall and sheetrock services include:

Are you building a new home or room and need to install new drywall? We have experienced crews in place, ready to handle large jobs for new home construction and custom homes. From home additions and basements to garages and attics, we can install drywall for any construction project. Whether you are a home builder or a homeowner who has a remodeling project that requires drywall, contact Glenn Construction for all your Maryland drywall installation projects!

Many homeowners come to us concerned that installing or repairing drywall will cause a mess, but with Glenn Construction, you wont have to worry about that! Our MD drywall company maintains cleanliness during every single one of our drywall repair and installation projects. This includes using drop cloths and other aids during the process, taping off registers and return vents and wet sanding as needed. After the project is completed, we clean, sweep or vacuum all affected areas.

If you need a Maryland drywall contractor, contact us today to schedule your free estimate. We are easily accessible and quickly reply to your messages. Email or call (410) 451-1600.

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MD Drywall Installation & Repair | Custom Drywall ...

Depending on the length your driveway, a paver driveway can usually be installed in about two days and is ready for use immediately upon completion.

A paver driveway will last up to 25 years and provides a unique and elegant look to your house. However, it provides a flexible surface and the bricks can shift or sink over time - resulting in an uneven driveway.

Broken bricks are relatively easy to replace. While brick driveway material costs vary greatly from region to region as well as the variances in ground conditions, brick pavers are likely to be a more expensive option.

Decorative touches or combinations of materials (brick and concrete for example) will also have an impact on the final cost.

Advantages of pavers & brick:

Create stately looking properties

Requires the least amount of maintenance of all paving options

Last a relatively long time with desired results

Can be created using colorful and appealing concrete pavers or bricks

Disdvantages of pavers & brick:

Can be expensive to install

Requires long installation times

Can crack during extremely cold or freezing temperatures

Can stain due to motor oil, antifreeze and other chemical agents

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driveway paving - Angie's List