January 2016 - Page 10 of 11 - Home Builder Developer, Interior Renovation and Design Home Builder Developer, Interior Renovation and Design

Our Challenge is your Imagination

Our team can turn the simplest of ideas into detailed plans for construction. Under our supervision, we will oversee your project from the early planning stages through to completion. Architectural Building Services is committed to exceeding your expectations.

We guarantee quality in all our work and, most importantly, timely results.

We build relationships!

For over 20 years, we have built a reputation for providing superior service.

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Architectural Building Services retains the services of CT licensed architects and engineers to provide design services. We specialize in Commercial, Industrial and Residential Projects.

- Providing unsurpassed quality of our work, schedule, and budget.- Exceeding the expectations of our customers.- Ensuring complete satisfaction of everyone we serve.

Experience and Quality

We have the experience to complete each project on time and within budget. If you want a quality job then Architectural Building Services is the company for you.

Over the years the company has earned a reputation for building excellence in Commercial, Industrial and Residential projects. We areunique in that, in addition to large commercial construction projects, we have the capability to manage small projects ranging from renovations, single-family custom homes and more.Let us help you grow your business by working with you to provide custom additions and renovations to enhance efficiencies and increase production.

Or call us to request a meeting -

(860) 675-8080

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Architectural Building Services General Contractors, LLC

WE PROVIDE HOME REPAIR SERVICES

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Why Handyman Services of Ashburn, VA?

Because we specialize in small, medium to full sized home remodeling, repairs and improvements in Northern Va. Our Local Handyman Services of Ashburn, Virginia can handle all of your needs. Handyman Home Services, Basement remodeling, Kitchen remodeling, Bathroom remodeling Plumbing, Drywall Repairs, Painting, Power Washing, Pressure Washing, Softwash, Roofing, Roof Repairs, Carpentry, HOA violations, Repairs, Rotten wood replacement Painting and much More

We offer Low Prices and Fast Service

Below are some of the services that we handle on a daily basis

Plumbing & Plumbing Repairs

Bathroom Remodel & Repairs

Kitchen Remodel & Repairs

Carpentry

Roofing & Roof Repairs

Basement Remodel

Painting

Power Washing

Windows

Doors

Handyman Services

HOA Violations

We can visit most customers within 24 hours of request

To your home repair needs

Dedicated Qualified Staff

To handle all of your home repair needs

We offer a 30 Day warranty on all labor

I have used Thomas about 6 times. He's the most knowledgeable and professional handy man. Thomas has done all perfect work for me and always has the cheapest price !!!

- Patrick Parker

I am a real estate agent in Loudoun County and used Thomas recently for some repair work that came up during home inspection. Thomas was very prompt, professional, and his rates were reasonable. Very satisfied overall.

- Saad Jamil

We have used Thom twice now and we will not use another handyman as long as Thom is in the business. Excellent work and honest you will not find anyone else like this. I have referred him to friends with rave reviews.

- Julie Trent

Thom did a great job for us. He was able to do the work right away, showed up when he said he would and the cost was reasonable. I will definitely use his services again.

- Kevin Trax

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Handyman Services, Ashburn, VA - roofing-virginia.com

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GAF | Factory-Certified Ashburn Roofing Contractors VA

A few of the Gehl Studio colleagues in Copenhagen

Gehl Architects has called Copenhagen home for over 14 years. During that time our team has flown around the world, working on ever-more complex, global projects that have always aimed to create cities for people.

Now wed like to broaden the Gehl reach, to expand the research and people-first approach, to influence design and urbanism in a more focused and local way, so that we can continue to improve peoples everyday quality of life by working more closely with our international clients and collaborators.

We all know that our world is urbanizing at an accelerated pace. With this expansion our cities are increasingly plagued by well-known issues aging populations, lifestyle diseases, affordability, congestion, safety, among many other topics.

Adapting to these changes while ensuring global growth exerts an extraordinary pressure on the daily city goers life and on the people who manage cities. This is why we aim to work with our clients and collaborators on transitioning from focusing on concrete and steel (hardware of cities) to responding to daily human experiences and needs (software of cities) so that our behavior, habits and lifestyle can shape our urban future and ensure that everyone has access to a better quality of life.

These are some of the reasons why weve decided to open Gehl Studio San Francisco and Gehl Studio New York.

Having Studios in the US will enable Gehl to exponentially do what we love most, to work face to face and on a daily basis with our local clients and collaborators. Well be able to jointly tackle and prioritize the needs of people in the planning and design of cities, districts, communities, streets and spaces, to make a bigger impact and to go further in the design process.

At Gehl, we strongly believe that the success of the projects that we undertake with our clients and collaborators is dependent on the right team, a group that is dynamic, talented, from varying backgrounds, and who shares the values and ambitions of creating cities for people. This is why we have invited an exceptional group of people to join Gehl Studio San Francisco and Gehl Studio New York. These Studios will also draw from the experience and talent of our Copenhagen office, enabling tailored teams with specific skills to be formed on a project-by-project basis.

One very exciting piece of news is that John Bella and Blaine Merker have joined Gehl Studio San Francisco from Rebar Art and Design Studio, bringing with them their leadership, expertise and innovation from Parking Day to temporary pilots and early activation projects around the world.

As you can tell, the Gehl expansion has us very excited!

Learn more Get in touch with one of our Studio offices here. Learn about our US team here. Find out where we are located in San Francisco and New York here.

* Gehl Studio San Francisco and Gehl Studio New York are part of the Gehl Architects family.

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Home - Gehl Architects

Find A Champion > Champion of Columbia, SC HOURS OF OPERATION M-Thu: 9AM - 6PM F: 9AM - 5PM Sat: 9AM - 4PM Sun: By Appointment

You live in the City of Dreams. Wouldn't you like to wake up in a home that looks and feels as great as you can imagine? Residents of South Carolina's capital city choose Champion Window for replacement windows in Columbia, SC. Columbia has become one of the country's most livable cities, so why don't you optimize the livability of your home with new windows from Champion. Champion specializes in custom-manufactured replacement windows, siding, sunrooms, roofing, and doors-all of which are made in the USA and sold, installed, and serviced by professionals in Columbia who are committed to making your home-improvement experience the best possible. If you need a window replacement in Columbia, SC, choose Champion Window.

Our 12 member team working under the leadership of Division Manager Chris Muenzer will deliver premium quality products at an affordable price to the residents of Columbia.

Winner of the Best of Columbia Award for four consecutive years from 2009-2012, we offer the most personalized service in the greater Columbia area in addition to energy efficient, aesthetically appealing and high performing home exterior products. There's no reason why you shop anywhere else in Columbia for doors, windows, sidings and sunrooms!

There is an incredible market all over the nation for quality service companies that specialize in emergency mitigation and restoration. It is estimated that the restoration market is a $60 billion industry and growing.

It is unfortunate, but there is wind, storm, fire and water damage that occurs every day in every community across America. Therefore there is consistent demand for Restoration 1 services. More importantly, our services are not for discretionary purposes. Because the property damage must be repaired, our business is unaffected by overall economic conditions.

There is a great deal of business available in your market for a Restoration 1 emergency mitigation and restoration franchise. The fact is that emergency mitigation and restoration work is a unique niche and requires specialists to complete a job the right way. Restoration 1 has developed a business model that allows a franchisee to develop and generate business through web marketing, regional referral partners and established vendor relationships. Strategic partners of the franchisor encourage work be given to the people they can trust will get the job done quickly and professionally. This means that the majority of mitigation and restoration business is referred to the company with the best track record for response, quality work and job outcome. With the reputation and business development methods of Restoration 1, you can be one of those trusted mitigation and restoration companies!

As a recognized regional innovator, Restoration 1 has a reputation for our response, work quality, and an absolute commitment to our referral agents. Our superior response and customer service approach carves out significant market share in every community we serve.

Restoration 1 is growing simply because we have only one focus; its assisting our restoration franchise owners to succeed through the use of our proven methods of business development and quality services application. What youll find is that we are as fully committed to your business as you are. We will stand behind you from the very beginning and will remain right beside you while your business grows to meet your business and financial goals.

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Home - Restoration 1

Fiber cement is tougher than other materials Installing fiber cement siding

Fiber cement looks identical to wood once it's painted.

When you want the classic look of wood siding coupled with lifetime durability, fiber cement siding may well be your best choice. Fiber cement siding is a composite made of Portland cement, silica and wood fiber. Once painted, it looks almost identical to wood. It's available in many styles and widths, both smooth and wood textured, and you still get the crisp joints and details that'll make your home's exterior stand out. In addition, it's highly rot and insect resistant, won't burn and paints beautifully.

Jaime Venzor has been in the siding business for more than 15 years. He started out installing mostly vinyl, but now 80 percent of his work is fiber cement. He earned his good reputation with his customers by doing things the right way, and he earned our thanks by sharing some of his knowledge with us. So read on and learn what Jaime thinks are the most important tips.

Find your most beat-up pieces of siding and rip them down into 1-1/4-in. starter strips. These strips, installed at the bottom, will make your first row of siding angle out to match the rest of the rows. Snap a line 1 in. above the bottom of the wall sheathing as a guide. Install these fragile starter strips with a 15-gauge trim gun. Snap another line for the bottom row of siding, positioning it so it will hang down an additional 1/4 in. from the starter.

Fiber cement siding can be hand-nailed, but because its so much harder and more brittle than wood, you have to predrill holes near any edge. You can save yourself a bunch of time by using a pneumatic coil siding nail gun. Unfortunately, a siding gun will set you back twice as much as a 15-gauge trim gun, and its only half as versatile, so if installing fiber cement isnt your full-time gig, you may want to rent one (about $110 a week). Every manufacturer has specific nailing guidelines, but here are some basic rules:

Its a lot easier to preassemble corners on a flat surface. Jaime uses 2-1/4-in. galvanized nails in his 15-gauge trim gun. He uses the same size nails to install the corners on the wall. Dont use a framing gun or try to handnail the corners together; thats a good way to break the trim boards. Also, the trim nails look better where nails will be exposed, especially on a prefinished corner board. So, if you dont have a 15-gauge trim gun, what a perfect opportunity to go buy one ($115 and up at home centers).

Mark stud locations at the top and bottom of the wall. Staple building paper to the wall sheathing, lapping top pieces over bottom pieces by at least 2 in. Fit and slide paper behind the window trim.

Snap chalk lines to mark the frieze board location and nail treated furring strips along the lines. Keep the bottom strip 1/4 in. above the bottom line.

Cut the frieze board to length with a circular saw, using a rafter angle square as a cutting guide. True up cut ends with a rasp or a sanding block.

Predrill and nail the frieze boards, driving two galvanized box nails into each stud. Hold the nails at least 3/4 in. from the edges. Drive the nailheads snug with the surface of the siding. Do not overdrive them. Apply caulk at the corner lap joint before installing the second piece.

Install the corner boards, lapping one over the other with caulk in the joint. Nail every 16 in. with a pair of 8d galvanized box nails.

Lap inside corners the same way as outside corners.

The layout process is exactly the same as for wood siding. Mark the stud locations with a pencil on the soffit and foundation where they won't be covered by the building paper. Install the building paper (Photo 1), then follow your stud location marks and snap chalk lines (Photo 2) to guide both your nailing and your placement of siding joints. We're also using fiber cement trim boards. Since they're only 7/16 in. thick, rip 3/8-in. thick strips from treated 2-by lumber and use them to fur out the frieze boards (Photo 2). Now they'll sit about 1/8 in. above the lap siding.

Cut the frieze board to length (Photo 3). Fiber cement siding is highly abrasive. Even a carbide tooth blade will last for only part of the day. At home centers, you can buy diamond blades made specifically for cutting fiber cement. These blades cut quickly and create less dust. But we had success with a less expensive dry-cut, diamond masonry blade. Drill cutouts for electrical boxes and pipes with regular twist bits or spade bits, and make interior or even curved cuts with a jigsaw fitted with a tungsten or carbide grit blade (these blades are available at home centers and tile stores). Cutting fiber cement siding raises a lot of silica dust, so work outside and wear a dust mask.

Nail up the frieze board by drilling 1/8-in. pilot holes and driving two galvanized box nails at each stud (Photo 4). Your nail length may vary from ours depending on the type of exterior sheathing used on your home. In general, use nails that penetrate the studs at least 1 in. Drive the nailheads snug against the fiber cement board. If driven too deep, the heads will crush the fiber cement board and reduce the nail's holding power. Don't nail fiber cement corners together (Photo 4). A nail driven into the edge of a fiber cement board will split it.

Next make the outside corner (Photo 5), following the same steps as for the frieze boards. Be sure the bottoms of the corner boards cover about 1/2 in. of the foundation.

If you don't have access to a table saw, buy a sheet of 1/2-in.treated plywood and rip furring strips with a circular saw.

Cut outdoors, wear a dust mask to avoid breathing the dust, and keep others away.

Mark the top of each siding course using the story pole as a guide (see Making a Story Pole.). Then snap chalk lines to keep each course straight.

Nail a 3/8-in. treated starter strip along the bottom of the wall. Then cut and nail the first course of siding along the layout line. Leave a 1/8-in. gap at the end, and nail at each stud with a single 8d galvanized box nail held 1 in. down from the top edge.

Butt the siding courses tight together.

Leave a small gap between the siding and the corner trim.

With the trim boards completed, lay out the siding courses with a story pole. (See Making a Story Pole.) Hold the top of the story pole snug against the frieze board and mark out the siding courses (Photo 6) at all corners and around windows and doors. Following these layout marks, snap horizontal chalk lines. Remember that these layout lines represent the top of each siding course.

Rip and nail up a 3/8-in. thick treated wood starter strip along the bottom of the wall (above the foundation). This strip will tip the first piece of siding to the proper angle. Measure and cut to length the first piece of siding and nail it in place (Photo 7).

Leave a 1/8-in. gap where the end meets the corner board (Photo 7, inset) and make sure the other end lands on a stud line. Install the next piece so its end butts lightly against the first (Photo 7, inset). Continue with the siding courses, aligning the top edges to the layout chalk lines. Be sure to stagger the butt joints so they don't lie on top of each other as you work your way up.

Cut a straight 1x2 so its length runs from the frieze board to the bottom of the first siding course. Measure up from the bottom of the story pole to mark the full width of the first course of siding. Remember, this mark represents the top of the siding piece, not the bottom of the second course.

From this point, make marks up the pole at the recommended exposure for your siding. The top course should be at least two-thirds the width of the lower courses. Check your layout marks against window and door openings and other features around the house, and adjust the exposure to avoid having to rip narrow pieces.

When the final layout is OK, draw heavy lines on the face and both edges of the story pole using a square. Now hold the story pole tight against the frieze board at all corners and alongside windows and doors. Transfer the layout marks to the wall and snap chalk lines. This will ensure that all the siding courses go on straight and uniformly.

Pros use pneumatic coil nailers (you can rent one) designed specifically for fiber cement siding. They cut nailing time in half. If you go this route, practice first to make sure the nailheads will be set flush.

Prefinished fiber cement boards come with a protective plastic coating. To protect the paint from getting scratched during installation, leave the plastic on and make your cuts right through it. Peel away the plastic after the board has been fastened to the wall.

Caulking butt joints is unnecessary, and some manufacturers prohibit it. However, you should flash behind the joints. You can use metal, house wrap or any other approved WRB (weather-resistant barrier), but Jaime prefers to use 30-lb. felt paper. Its easy to work with and cheap, and it isnt noticeable if a seam happens to open up a little. Tack it to the wall so it doesn't get knocked out of place when you install the second piece of siding.

Fiber cement boards don't expand and contract much, but leave a little room for expansion at the end joints and then fill the gap with caulk. Butt joints, however, should be nailed tightly together and should not be caulked. Make sure all butt joints are on studs, and stagger the butt joints as you work your way up the wall.

Whether or not youre installing trim boards around your windows, youll need to install a drip cap over the window. Youll also need to leave a 1/4-in. gap (no caulking) between the top of the window and the plank or trim board directly above it. This is to allow any water that may have gotten behind the siding to weep out. Tape the drip cap to the wall, but dont tape all the way to the bottom of the drip cap because it will be visible through the 1/4-in. gap. The top trim board will also need its own drip cap and 1/4-in. gap. Treat the tops of doors the same way.

Fiber cement siding is heavy and breaks if it's bent too much. Installing this stuff by yourself is tough, but it's possible with the aid of siding gauges. These tools not only create the proper reveal (the part of the siding that shows) between rows but also actually hold the planks in place while you nail. Even if you do just one fiber cement job, siding gauges are worth the money.

A pair of the SA902 Gecko Gauges shown here costs about $85 (available though our affiliation with amazon.com), but cheaper versions are available. Most gauges are adjustable to accommodate reveals from 5 to 8 in.

We decided to use a prefinished product in this story, but the other way to go is simple primed siding. That material is primed and ready for you to paint. Here are some facts to consider when making your decision.

The advantages of primed: Primed products cost 50 percent less than prefinished products. On-site painting looks better up close because the touch-up paint and caulked areas arent as noticeable. Primed products are easier and less expensive to install.

The advantages of prefinished: The color on a prefinished product wont fade nearly as fast. Some finishes come with a 15-year warranty. But the best part of using a prefinished product is that after installation, youre done and not faced with painting an entire house.

When you're cutting this stuff, a dust mask is the bare minimum protection, and this is not a casual warning: The silica dust generated by cutting fiber cement can be bad news for your health!

You can buy fiber cement blades sized to fit any saw style or size for $20 and up at most home centers.

Tons of fiber cement cutting gadgets are available, but most jobs can be handled with just a steady eye and a standard circular saw fitted with a fiber cement blade. If you plan to hang a lot of fiber cement, though, you'll want a chop saw with a proper blade that will allow you to cut several pieces at once.

Most fiber cement manufacturers make mounting blocks for lights, electrical receptacles, A/C lines, PVC venting, etc. Jaime prefers to use the vinyl mounting blocks typically used with vinyl siding. Theyre cheaper and easy to install, and you can cut the proper-size hole in a plastic mounting block with a utility knife or a snips. With fiber cement blocks, you have to use a jigsaw or a hole saw.

MountMaster is one brand of blocks sold at Lowes and many lumberyards. Its available in more than 25 colors, but you can order paintable blocks if you want an exact match with your siding or trim.

Paint cut edges at butt joints.

Caulk edges that butt against corners and trim.

Every time you cut a plank, you create an exposed surface that has no primer or paint to protect it from the elements. If a cut edge is going to butt up against a corner post or trim board, it gets caulked. If the cut edge is part of a butt joint in the middle of the wall, it needs to be painted (try to use factory edges on all butt joints). Planks that have been cut to fit over windows and doors also need paint. Order paint kits and caulking to match both the trim and the siding colors. Your siding supplier should have access to both. Painting kits cost $15 to $20.

Fiber cement siding is not bulletproofit will deteriorate if exposed to water for a long time. Its imperative that you honor the proper spacing between the siding and the roof surfaces and between the siding and the horizontal surfaces, such as the ground or cement slabs and decks. Check with your specific manufacturer before you start. Here are some general guidelines.

Leave:

Kick-out flashing is essential for preventing water from running down a roof and behind the siding on an adjacent wall. Youll fail your inspection if the inspector doesnt see it on your job. Its a pain to work around, but it helps if you dont nail the flashing tight until you have your siding cut to size. Its much easier to get a proper fit for a plank if you can shift the flashing beneath it.

Hold the siding snug under the windowsill and mark the window edge location. Then measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Cut out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later. Predrill and nail at each stud, including under the window.

Drill a 3/8-in. hole at the corner with a standard twist drill bit. Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. Then nail up the piece of siding.

Notch to go around windows and doors. Be sure to allow a 1/8-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will be caulked later. Nail the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint will cover them.

Hold the siding snug under the windowsill and mark the window edge location. Then measure from the chalk line to the top of the siding. Add 1/8 in. to your measurement. This is the width of the cutout.

Cut out the notch with your saw and slide the piece into place, leaving a 1/8-in. gap between the siding and windowsill. Caulk this gap later. Predrill and nail at each stud, including under the window.

Hold siding in place under wall penetrations such as this electrical box. Mark the width and height of the cutout. Caution: Turn off the power to the receptacle before removing it from the box.

Drill a 3/8-in. hole at the corner with a standard twist drill bit. Cut along the line with a jigsaw fitted with a carbide grit blade. Then nail up the piece of siding.

Cut the top course of siding to width and nail at each stud. Leave a 1/8-in. gap at the top edge. Fill all 1/8-in. gaps with acrylic latex caulk.

Notch to go around windows and doors (Photos 8 and 9). Be sure to allow a 1/8-in. gap where the siding meets the window trim and sill. This joint will be caulked later. Nail the top edge of the siding along the windowsill at each stud. These nailheads will be exposed, but the paint will cover them.

Water intrusion around wall penetrations can be a problem for any type of siding. Lay out and make the cutout for the electrical box (Photos 10 and 11). The electrical box cover is gasketed to seal out water. For pipes, electrical entries and similar fixtures, fit the siding as tightly as possible and then seal with a polyurethane caulk or non-hardening electrician's putty. Rip the top course of siding to width and nail it up (Photo 12). Hold these nails 1 in. below the top edge. Again, these nailheads will be exposed.

Buy the siding already primed. If you prime it yourself, use an alkali resistant primer. Caulk all the joints with an acrylic latex caulk before applying the final coats of paint. Be sure the caulk fills the 1/8-in. joint completely to keep it watertight. Finish-coat with a 100 percent acrylic latex paint.

If you live in a region of high rainfall or the wall is highly exposed to water, slip a 3-in. wide strip of building paper behind butt joints. Be sure the bottom edge of the paper laps on top of the lower course of siding.

Originally posted here:
How to Install Fiber Cement Siding | The Family Handyman

HardiePlank Lap Siding

HardiePlank lap siding is a factory-primed fiber cement lap siding available in a variety of styles and textures. It is also available with ColorPlus Technology as one of James Hardie's prefinished products. ColorPlus Technology is a factory applied, oven-baked finish available on a variety of James Hardie siding and trim products. See your local dealer for details and availability of products, colors and accessories.

HardiePlank Lap Siding Installation Instructions

HardieShingle siding is available as straight-edge panels or staggered-edge panels 48-in. long by 16-in. high. HardieShingle panels also come as decorative half-round shingles. For smaller coverage areas, individual shingles are also available. Please see your James Hardie dealer for availability of these products.

HardieShingle Siding Installation Instructions

HardiePanel vertical siding is available in a variety of sizes and textures. Textures include smooth, stucco, Cedarmill and Sierra 8. HardiePanel vertical siding is 5/16-in. thick and is available in 4x8, 4x9 and 4x10 sizes. Please see your local James Hardie dealer for texture and size availability.

HardiePanel Vertical Siding Installation Instructions

Artisan Lap siding from James Hardie is luxury, architectural-grade exterior building product. Manufactured with a unique tongue and groove assembly for superior dimensional stability, Artisan Lap resists shrinking, swelling and cracking as well as mold and mildew, termites, harsh weather and is non-combustible.

Artisan Lap Siding Installation Instructions

Intro

Plywood panel or sheet siding offers one of the quickest and least expensive ways to cover a wall. These products have gotten a bad reputation in recent years due to reports of panels that buckle, delaminate, or come loose from the wall. But if you choose the panels and fasteners carefully and follow correct installation procedures, plywood panels can last a long time.

Cement-fiber panels are somewhat more water-repellent than plywood but should be installed with the same care as plywood. Hardboard panels are often the least expensive option, but they are easily damaged and soak up moisture like a proverbial sponge if not kept well covered with paint at all points.

Panels are typically available in 8- and 12-foot lengths. Longer panels may enable you to minimize the number of horizontal joints between panels.

Prestart Checklist

Time Working with a helper, about a day to install 1200 square feet

Tools Nail gun or hammer, circular saw, jigsaw, tape measure, story pole, chalk line, drill, flat pry bar, level, caulking gun, utility knife, tin snips, staple gun

Skills Measuring, laying out a job, driving nails, cutting with a power saw

Prep Cover the sheathing with building wrap and install trim boards and flashings.

Materials Siding panels, strips of felt, staples, board and flashing for the water table, stainless-steel or galvanized siding nails, primer or sealer

Read more from the original source:
Installing Panel Siding - How to Install Siding. DIY Advice

Where Your Siding Installation Estimate Comes From

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The cost of siding installation can be a wily number to track down. When youre on the hunt for estimates there arent very many contractors who want to fork out a list of prices without any guarantee of a new project to undertake. Installing siding is laborious to say the least, so it can be tricky to throw around numbers when talking price quotes. A siding installation estimate has a handful of determining factors, so knowing the breakdown can ease the frustration of finding the right price for home siding.

The simple cost of siding is the easier part of the process to ballpark. Siding prices are generally broken down by material cost. This estimate will include the price of the type of material itself, the amount of material needed, and the material quality. Prices will vary greatly from region to region and from siding type to siding type.

Please note that these are extremely loose numbers. For precise numbers on a home siding estimate, you have to seek the help of a siding professional. The cost of siding installation will vary greatly from house to house, so your home will have its own unique quote.

Aluminum Siding

Aluminum siding generally runs around $3 per square foot. Aluminum siding will cost anywhere from $3,000-$9,000, depending on the size of your home. A cozy bungalow will obviously cost less to side than that mansion on the hill.

Vinyl Siding

If youre going to go with the do-it-yourself method of installing siding, vinyl siding panels can cost you as little as $1 per square foot. Vinyl siding is one of the most popular materials for home siding available today, so its ease of installation and general accessibility is much wider than most siding options. Vinyl siding installation can save you money initially and in the long run.

If you don't have much home improvement experience, it may be wiser to go with the experience of a siding contractor, but know that this can up the cost by up to $6 per square foot. For an average sized residential home, youll be looking at around $3,500-$6,300.

Wood Siding

Wood siding installation will vary depending on lumber prices in your region, but wood siding is generally more expensive than vinyl or aluminum. If wood siding is what youre looking for, youre going to be spending at least $6,000 for a small home sided with pine. A large house can get up to the $25,000-$28,000 range if you side with cedar shakes.

Labor cost for siding installation will vary the most when youre searching for estimates. Its of utmost importance to search for several quotes when youre price shopping. You may find the work of a small, independent contractor to be more expensive than a contractor from a large home improvement company, but youll hopefully be paying for a higher level of customer service and quality. Finding the right contractor may be the most important part of your renovation project, so make sure your siding worker has all the right qualities to ensure your home will look as wonderful as youd hope it to be.

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Cost of Siding Installation A Breakdown on Your Estimate